I’ve lost count how many hand plane videos I’ve seen. When you demonstrated the tap adjustment, you did something nobody else has ever done. So simple, yet it blew me away. Thank you, thank you.
Thank you forreminding me of what I was probably told when doing my apprenticeship 56 years ago. I had forgotten those simple skills for adjusting a wooden jack plane.
I've watched a lot of hand tool videos. I think this is the first one (and maybe I just missed it) that pointed out tapping the toe will advance the blade. Most just tap the iron to advance it, then tap the wedge a little. Thank you for that. It definitely would save from mushrooming the blade by using a metal hammer. Though I've seen many suggesting a brass or copper hammer to prevent this because they are softer than the iron. That's the thing about hand tool stuff, so much lost information about how things were done in the old days.
Most people, pros included, advance the iron by tapping directly on the iron. That’s what I was taught 50+ years ago. Using inertia to advance the iron,by tapping on the toe of the plane is more subtle and gives better control. Thanks for reminding us all of this (almost forgotten) “feature” of wooden planes.
Great HAT! Love it! Very glad to see you on RUclips. I have (most if not) all of your books. Thank you so much for sharing your wisdom and knowledge... I hope to see many more... Best wishes...
I'd forgotten all this. I'd forgotten that to get the blade out you tap the top of the toe. And if you want more shaving you tap the front of the toe. I just remember (when I had one) tapping the heel for less shaving. But your demonstration has reminded me just how totally sophisticated these old bench planes are. They don't NEED screw thread adjustment. Just a little tap here and there and the inertia in the iron will work against the sudden impact of the mallet on the body and shift the position of the iron. Absolutely magic. I think I'm going to have to get one again. Or better still MAKE one, like all self respecting Cabinet Makers should! Brilliant video. No waffle, just simple, to the the point, clear instruction. Excellent.
Hey that’s great! I’ve always wondered now you adjusted the depth of the blade… just a simple tap from a wooden mallet! Who knew?! Amazingly simple! Thanks!!!
I truly believe a little hand work is as important as the most advanced technologies if we are to remain full human beings.. Glad you've been reminded!
Nice to see you on RUclips. Wish I could've kept the school open long enough to have you teach there in San Marcos. I might suggest an under spot light if you're going to stick with your hat to highlight your face.
I had some Jack plains I bought from the Goodwill auction a few years back and now I'm going to dust them off and look more closely for these features like for an end grain striker and adjusting the blade.
That is MAGIC! Wonder what the physics/mechanics is of that tapping to make the iron move in different ways is. I'm away till get me Da's old wooden planes, that have been lying in the cupboard for 30 years since he passed on, and start using them. .
Great video much help and knowledge shared thanks. Picked up one of these in a mixed box of old tools at an auction the raised toe knob is missing, there’s just a hole and the mouth is huge. I read that traditional Jack planes had a wider mouth than the coffin smoother or a long try plane, as they were used for taking off thicker shavings, I guess like a scrub plane. But I can see closing the mouth will give a finer shaving and be more use to me so looking forward to seeing how to do this. There’s also a wooden shim that’s about a 16th thick between the plane body and the iron have you seen these before? Not sure if to take this out or leave it, the wedge is worn with age but there’s plenty of steel left on the iron. The sole also is badly scored so needs planing. You have given me the confidence and urge to tackle this and hopefully get this working again!
If you want the best chance of avoiding tearout when planing against the grain the mouth (and the capiron adjustment) should be no wider than the thinnest shaving (1000th inch). On the other hand there are actually planes with nothing before the iron - essentially an infinite mouth; such as small bullnose planes used for planing right up to a corner!
Just have to make sure it's square to the sole of the plane; the metal Lie-Nielsen has a 'lateral adjustment lever', the wooden one just needs its iron tapped lightly wit a hammer.
I’ve lost count how many hand plane videos I’ve seen. When you demonstrated the tap adjustment, you did something nobody else has ever done. So simple, yet it blew me away. Thank you, thank you.
Wow, thanks!
Thank you forreminding me of what I was probably told when doing my apprenticeship 56 years ago. I had forgotten those simple skills for adjusting a wooden jack plane.
You.re welcome!
Nice hat!
Thanks.
Have 5 of my grandfathers wooden planes from turn of the 20th century. Thanks to you I am finally learning how to use them. You are awesome!
Glad to help
I've watched a lot of hand tool videos. I think this is the first one (and maybe I just missed it) that pointed out tapping the toe will advance the blade. Most just tap the iron to advance it, then tap the wedge a little. Thank you for that. It definitely would save from mushrooming the blade by using a metal hammer. Though I've seen many suggesting a brass or copper hammer to prevent this because they are softer than the iron. That's the thing about hand tool stuff, so much lost information about how things were done in the old days.
You bet!
Thank you for providing me with this knowledge...,
My pleasure
Graham ole boy , I am guilty of practically all of those horrific adjustment mistakes . Thank you for this and more sir . Blessings
You are very welcome
The strike pin,thanks didn't know that!😊
I know, it's not obvious.
Most people, pros included, advance the iron by tapping directly on the iron. That’s what I was taught 50+ years ago. Using inertia to advance the iron,by tapping on the toe of the plane is more subtle and gives better control. Thanks for reminding us all of this (almost forgotten) “feature” of wooden planes.
Glad to help!
Thank you
I am learning so much from you
You are so welcome
Time to get back to setting up my dads wooden planes. Fantastic content and enjoying the channel, thank you.
Awesome! Thank you!
Great HAT! Love it! Very glad to see you on RUclips. I have (most if not) all of your books. Thank you so much for sharing your wisdom and knowledge... I hope to see many more... Best wishes...
Thank you so much!
Can’t wait to find a half decent wooden jack plane now. Thanks for the inspiration!
Good luck!
Found your channel through a recommendation by Wortheffort. You definitely deserve the praise.
Wow, thank you!
Hi. Shawn from WorthEffort sent me over to say howdy. Lets see whatcha got. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for coming
Thank you for this, I've now changed how I've been adjusting my wooden planes. Looking forward to your next video.
Glad it helped
I'd forgotten all this. I'd forgotten that to get the blade out you tap the top of the toe. And if you want more shaving you tap the front of the toe. I just remember (when I had one) tapping the heel for less shaving. But your demonstration has reminded me just how totally sophisticated these old bench planes are. They don't NEED screw thread adjustment. Just a little tap here and there and the inertia in the iron will work against the sudden impact of the mallet on the body and shift the position of the iron. Absolutely magic. I think I'm going to have to get one again. Or better still MAKE one, like all self respecting Cabinet Makers should! Brilliant video. No waffle, just simple, to the the point, clear instruction. Excellent.
Appreciate it!
One mora thing i learned in this video. Strike the toe. Thank you.
Glad to help
Hey that’s great! I’ve always wondered now you adjusted the depth of the blade… just a simple tap from a wooden mallet! Who knew?! Amazingly simple! Thanks!!!
You're welcome!
Браво майсторе,много добре,успехи,живот и здраве,поздрав от България.
Spasibo!
Just answered my question in your other video sorry going to checkout your books
Great!
you have a great deal of knowledge and experience to share. Thank you
You are very welcome
amazing - what we’ve forgotten.
I truly believe a little hand work is as important as the most advanced technologies if we are to remain full human beings.. Glad you've been reminded!
Nice to see you on RUclips. Wish I could've kept the school open long enough to have you teach there in San Marcos. I might suggest an under spot light if you're going to stick with your hat to highlight your face.
Thanks for the hat suggestion - you're right!
Part 2 as good as part 1. thanks
Thank you!
Welcome to RUclips, here because Shawn at Wortheffort recommended your channel, glad he did!
I had some Jack plains I bought from the Goodwill auction a few years back and now I'm going to dust them off and look more closely for these features like for an end grain striker and adjusting the blade.
Great! Have fun.
You are awesome 👌
Gee, thanks!
That is MAGIC! Wonder what the physics/mechanics is of that tapping to make the iron move in different ways is. I'm away till get me Da's old wooden planes, that have been lying in the cupboard for 30 years since he passed on, and start using them. .
Don't worry about the physics/inertia thing - just remember how to do it!
Tap the toe... THANKS so much!
You're welcome!
Strange that I knew the backtapping but not the front... Thanks!
You're welcome!
Can you talk about your shelves behind you? Trying to determine how they are secured to the wall?
If I remember I just hung them on ledgers nailed through the sheetrock to the studs in the framing.
Thanks! Love the channel and books.
Great video much help and knowledge shared thanks. Picked up one of these in a mixed box of old tools at an auction the raised toe knob is missing, there’s just a hole and the mouth is huge. I read that traditional Jack planes had a wider mouth than the coffin smoother or a long try plane, as they were used for taking off thicker shavings, I guess like a scrub plane. But I can see closing the mouth will give a finer shaving and be more use to me so looking forward to seeing how to do this. There’s also a wooden shim that’s about a 16th thick between the plane body and the iron have you seen these before? Not sure if to take this out or leave it, the wedge is worn with age but there’s plenty of steel left on the iron. The sole also is badly scored so needs planing. You have given me the confidence and urge to tackle this and hopefully get this working again!
Good, plane the sole smoth and adjust the mouth accordingly.
Excellent !!!! Gracias
de nada
Great video how wide can a mouth be an still work?
If you want the best chance of avoiding tearout when planing against the grain the mouth (and the capiron adjustment) should be no wider than the thinnest shaving (1000th inch). On the other hand there are actually planes with nothing before the iron - essentially an infinite mouth; such as small bullnose planes used for planing right up to a corner!
Thanks for this: very interesting and useful.
But what about lateral adjustment of the blade? How is *that* done?
Just have to make sure it's square to the sole of the plane; the metal Lie-Nielsen has a 'lateral adjustment lever', the wooden one just needs its iron tapped lightly wit a hammer.
@@gjbmunc Thanks!
Graham, would you tap the front or back of an infill plane if it lacks an adjuster?
No, I'd adjust the iron directly so as not to damage the metal body.
Thank you!
Do you collect anything that listeners can send your way as thanks?
How would you adjust the iron for lateral movement? I have a wooden try plane that I've not worked up the courage to tackle yet.
tap the side of the iron carefully then secure the wedge.
@@gjbmunc Thank you.