I've just started using wooden planes and this and your other videos have helped immensely. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, it's becoming quite addictive. 👍👊
Thank you for posting your knowledge on this! I've been struggling with these issues on a wooden jointer roughly the size you used for this tutorial. I realize I do need to replace the section in front of the mouth of the plane with a new piece of wood. It is broken on mine and was assuming that that may be one of my problems I'm running into with trying to plane. I'll have to watch your other tutorial you referenced on replacing that section of a wooden plane. There are a few other issues that I'm sure will arise once I make that fix, but it seems to be the biggest holdup with this particular plane. Once again, thank you for sharing. I have been searching for a good in-depth explanation of how to correct these issues, and finding your tutorial gave me the best guidance I've found so far. The 1st person perspective you use really helps! Subscribed.
Thank you so much for this video. I just bought an Ohio Tools #15 this last weekend and have been trying to tune it up. This is great information to have for a first timer on one of these old planes.
Amazing stuff! Recently got my first plane that happens to be an old Stanley made in England and needed some restoration. Watched like 20 tutorials of how to set up the plane properly and fix issues. Your video is in my top 3! Thank you! 🍻
Thank you for sharing. Very nice and to the point. I have recently started using a wooden plane and man is it fun. It glides and frankly much easier to handle than my #5 Jack
If mouth is too big but not by much there is another way. Experiment with thin dense card under blade between blade and the angled cut out it rests on. This advances the blade forward some towards the leading edge of the mouth. I had no chatter issues and it solved the oversize mouth issue without complexity of making a sole insert. My smoother has 5 shillings and 6 pence written on the front. I flattened the sole. Now works very well.
I agree. Much simpler to move the iron forward. You can also just glue a 1/16” thick piece of wood to close the gap. I have a cow horn wooden plane with a huge throat, no chip breaker, very sharp thick iron. The sole is flat. It planes a treat.
This is a great idea that (for some reason) most people don't know about. I'll be doing a video on inserts later this year and I'll be using this method.
There is a third reason for jamming and it has to do with the corners of the chip breaker. If they protrude past the iron, on the sides that is, like mine did when I picked it up from a thrift shop, the chips catch and accordian. I'm currently working on getting this issue solved.
Thanks a lot for the video - very helpful! I wonder if you have a suggestion for the chipbreaker creeping away from the edge of the blade. I am not sure if it is the wedge pushing the chipbreaker back, or if it only occurs when I plane - but no matter how close I set the chipbreaker, after a few minutes the plane starts to misbehave and when I take out the iron/chipbreaker assembly, the chipbreaker has slid away from the edge considerably, approximately 3 to 4 millimetres. Any recommendation would be very much appreciated!
Great videos, Adam! A couple of comments: I’d like to see how you use the file (and know what kind of file you use) for taking off the corners on the smoothing plane. If I hadn’t seen others taking the corners off with the honing stone (which is what I do), I’d be confused. Second (this is just a personal opinion): I have a harder time focusing on your voice with the music in the background. Your videos carry great instructions (almost like having a teacher next to you), and I want to make sure I catch all of it. Thanks again! I will search for a video in your series dealing with the cracks in the wooden plane body. I have a great number of older planes from my dad and grand father (both cabinet makers) that I have to decide how much or how little to restore.
Hello Abraham, I just bought an Ensenore Works (Auburn tools) #50 22 inch fore plane and searched for ways to make it work again and ran across your videos which I found as being very informative and well edited. The plane is in reasonably good shape with no cracks, tight handle, and blade doesn’t have any slop. After cleaning, flattening the sole, regluing an overlay over the angled frog??, and attempted to take out a slight bend in the blade while sharpening it nicely. Your video hit home for chatter and having the blade so extended to cut that it either took a very large shaving or nothing at all. Nothing worked to correct this. I then took my spare 2-3/8 Stanley blade and installed it. The plane works like a charm now on edges but still not there on planing the width. Takeaway here is to make sure the blade is dead flat. Do you have any hints on making a new wedge. One ear is about 1/2 inch shorter than the other and neither reach to the curvature on the chip breaker. This also should help out as the wedge and blade need a lot of persuasion to remove them. I think this would complete the plane to make it a daily user. Thanks
My jack plane was chattering and I discovered that the iron bed is slightly hollow down the middle.Tried file down sides not working,very slow to take off material.What would you recommend?
Bob Rozaieski has a great video dedicated to bedding irons. He uses soot from a candle to help mark where you need to file down. Hope it helps ruclips.net/video/ZTGOPyD6HSQ/видео.html
One plane I have was jambing a lot and I made a new wedge for it and that helped a lot. I still have to close the mouth up on a couple wooden planes I have. Honestly I don't expect much from a wooden plane though. I use them mainly for roughing. I'll finish smoothing with iron body planes.
@@1pcfred they are harder to set. But both historic record and modern builders have proven the quality is as good as metal. In fact historically it was good enough joiners were very slow to accept metal planes. I think the adjuster mechanism is the real advantage of woodies. Finish is the same level, but adjustment is night and day.
@@ehisey @ehisey plenty of evidence supports the fact that hardness and material density does matter with tools. Cast iron and steel are excellent materials to make tools out of too. The only reason wood was used in the past was due to cost and availability.
@@1pcfred no, we documents from the vendors trying to sell metal planes thst the craftsman were buying. So they introduced the transitionals to entuce the move. Today we still have top names in woodworking going to wood bodies instead of metal. So availabilty is clearly not the deciding factor.
Well, I am getting back into flat work after 30 years on the wood lathes. Not sure if you can help me, but I picked up a 22 inch long jointer plane in St. Joe, MO. Only identification on it is AC Bartlett which is stamped onto the plane iron. I googled it and couldn't find anything. It does have the #19 stamped into the nose of the plane, and it has a saw handle type tote. I will be making some wood planes in the next few years. One thing I am curious about, especially with the bigger hand planes, which are all cracked. Why don't they drill a hole lengthwise in it, maybe 1 inch diameter? The cracks come from tension from unequal moisture levels. It is there even if the wood is at 'equilibrium. There may be enough stress just from this to cause eventual cracking. If there are any external changes, then for sure the wood will stress relief by cracking. I will be doing this to the larger planes I make.
I have a little doubt about the coffin shape of the plane. I have heard that this forms is to expouse the nost quantitt of endegrain in the surface to avoid nost wood movements. Is this right or is to make it comfortable to the hand grip?
Always see guys talking about planes with chip breakers, my jointer chokes but doesnt have a chip breaker. Thinks it could be the width between the iron and the front of the mouth?
If the plane was designed for an iron with a chip breaker, you absolutely need to use one. Irons that need a chip breaker will have a hole in them (for the screw that attaches the iron to the chip breaker) and a groove in the throat for that screw. Planes that are built for a single iron won't have that groove. There are plenty of single iron planes out there. They typically require a much tighter mouth than a double iron plane. The iron is also usually bedded at a lower angle.
Thanks for the video. You’ve explained things very well. I got a jack plane to restore from eBay recently and have an issue I haven’t seen addressed. So I left the plane disassembled on my table for a month or so. And now the iron won’t fit back into the throat. Does seasonal wood movement make the slot for the iron shrink to where it doesn’t fit anymore? Is that something that happens?
Oh man, that sucks! You're correct. Humidity and temperature will cause wood movement in a plane. I haven't run into your problem myself but I wonder if storing the plane in a cool dry environment might cause it shrink back? Let me know if you find a solution.
This is umm very good umm information so umm I clicked the umm like button but umm the speaker needs umm a bit more umm practice umm speaking. I look umm forward to umm more improved umm videos in the umm future.
I love the video but not the format. Your voiceover is great but I do not need to actually see you talking which takes up the screen and is distracting.
That's true unless: You don't have space for an electric planer, can't afford it, are afraid of them, don't want to make as much noice. Also you just might like the handplane.
If you like wooden plane videos then you'll probably really like this monthly newsletter: woodenplanes.substack.com
I've just started using wooden planes and this and your other videos have helped immensely. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, it's becoming quite addictive. 👍👊
Thank you for posting your knowledge on this! I've been struggling with these issues on a wooden jointer roughly the size you used for this tutorial. I realize I do need to replace the section in front of the mouth of the plane with a new piece of wood. It is broken on mine and was assuming that that may be one of my problems I'm running into with trying to plane. I'll have to watch your other tutorial you referenced on replacing that section of a wooden plane. There are a few other issues that I'm sure will arise once I make that fix, but it seems to be the biggest holdup with this particular plane. Once again, thank you for sharing. I have been searching for a good in-depth explanation of how to correct these issues, and finding your tutorial gave me the best guidance I've found so far. The 1st person perspective you use really helps! Subscribed.
Thank you so much for this video. I just bought an Ohio Tools #15 this last weekend and have been trying to tune it up. This is great information to have for a first timer on one of these old planes.
Amazing stuff! Recently got my first plane that happens to be an old Stanley made in England and needed some restoration. Watched like 20 tutorials of how to set up the plane properly and fix issues. Your video is in my top 3! Thank you! 🍻
Thank you for the help. Great video!
Thank you for sharing. Very nice and to the point. I have recently started using a wooden plane and man is it fun. It glides and frankly much easier to handle than my #5 Jack
If mouth is too big but not by much there is another way. Experiment with thin dense card under blade between blade and the angled cut out it rests on. This advances the blade forward some towards the leading edge of the mouth. I had no chatter issues and it solved the oversize mouth issue without complexity of making a sole insert. My smoother has 5 shillings and 6 pence written on the front. I flattened the sole. Now works very well.
I agree. Much simpler to move the iron forward. You can also just glue a 1/16” thick piece of wood to close the gap. I have a cow horn wooden plane with a huge throat, no chip breaker, very sharp thick iron. The sole is flat. It planes a treat.
This is a great idea that (for some reason) most people don't know about. I'll be doing a video on inserts later this year and I'll be using this method.
VERY helpful video! Thank you so much. Hope you’ll continue to produce more videos!
Brilliant video excellent description thank you this will help me loads to understand these wooden planes 👍
Fine instruction.
There is a third reason for jamming and it has to do with the corners of the chip breaker. If they protrude past the iron, on the sides that is, like mine did when I picked it up from a thrift shop, the chips catch and accordian. I'm currently working on getting this issue solved.
Love your video lots of great useful information...
Thanks a lot for the video - very helpful! I wonder if you have a suggestion for the chipbreaker creeping away from the edge of the blade. I am not sure if it is the wedge pushing the chipbreaker back, or if it only occurs when I plane - but no matter how close I set the chipbreaker, after a few minutes the plane starts to misbehave and when I take out the iron/chipbreaker assembly, the chipbreaker has slid away from the edge considerably, approximately 3 to 4 millimetres. Any recommendation would be very much appreciated!
Very helpful Ty
great tutorial. I only use wooden hand planes. Thanks
Great videos, Adam! A couple of comments: I’d like to see how you use the file (and know what kind of file you use) for taking off the corners on the smoothing plane. If I hadn’t seen others taking the corners off with the honing stone (which is what I do), I’d be confused. Second (this is just a personal opinion): I have a harder time focusing on your voice with the music in the background. Your videos carry great instructions (almost like having a teacher next to you), and I want to make sure I catch all of it. Thanks again! I will search for a video in your series dealing with the cracks in the wooden plane body. I have a great number of older planes from my dad and grand father (both cabinet makers) that I have to decide how much or how little to restore.
Nice discovery. Subscribed. Cheers !
Awesome, thank you!
Hello Abraham, I just bought an Ensenore Works (Auburn tools) #50 22 inch fore plane and searched for ways to make it work again and ran across your videos which I found as being very informative and well edited. The plane is in reasonably good shape with no cracks, tight handle, and blade doesn’t have any slop. After cleaning, flattening the sole, regluing an overlay over the angled frog??, and attempted to take out a slight bend in the blade while sharpening it nicely. Your video hit home for chatter and having the blade so extended to cut that it either took a very large shaving or nothing at all. Nothing worked to correct this. I then took my spare 2-3/8 Stanley blade and installed it. The plane works like a charm now on edges but still not there on planing the width. Takeaway here is to make sure the blade is dead flat. Do you have any hints on making a new wedge. One ear is about 1/2 inch shorter than the other and neither reach to the curvature on the chip breaker. This also should help out as the wedge and blade need a lot of persuasion to remove them. I think this would complete the plane to make it a daily user. Thanks
Thank you thank you thank you
Lots of awesome info here, but I'm wasted because I took a shot at every "um" 😁
My jack plane was chattering and I discovered that the iron bed is slightly hollow down the middle.Tried file down sides not working,very slow to take off material.What would you recommend?
Bob Rozaieski has a great video dedicated to bedding irons. He uses soot from a candle to help mark where you need to file down. Hope it helps ruclips.net/video/ZTGOPyD6HSQ/видео.html
One plane I have was jambing a lot and I made a new wedge for it and that helped a lot. I still have to close the mouth up on a couple wooden planes I have. Honestly I don't expect much from a wooden plane though. I use them mainly for roughing. I'll finish smoothing with iron body planes.
Why not? Well set woods will match a metal for quality.
@@ehisey that has not been my experience. I just get better performance out of metal planes as opposed to wooden body ones.
@@1pcfred they are harder to set. But both historic record and modern builders have proven the quality is as good as metal. In fact historically it was good enough joiners were very slow to accept metal planes. I think the adjuster mechanism is the real advantage of woodies. Finish is the same level, but adjustment is night and day.
@@ehisey @ehisey plenty of evidence supports the fact that hardness and material density does matter with tools. Cast iron and steel are excellent materials to make tools out of too. The only reason wood was used in the past was due to cost and availability.
@@1pcfred no, we documents from the vendors trying to sell metal planes thst the craftsman were buying. So they introduced the transitionals to entuce the move. Today we still have top names in woodworking going to wood bodies instead of metal. So availabilty is clearly not the deciding factor.
Well, I am getting back into flat work after 30 years on the wood lathes. Not sure if you can help me, but I picked up a 22 inch long jointer plane in St. Joe, MO. Only identification on it is AC Bartlett which is stamped onto the plane iron. I googled it and couldn't find anything. It does have the #19 stamped into the nose of the plane, and it has a saw handle type tote.
I will be making some wood planes in the next few years. One thing I am curious about, especially with the bigger hand planes, which are all cracked. Why don't they drill a hole lengthwise in it, maybe 1 inch diameter? The cracks come from tension from unequal moisture levels. It is there even if the wood is at 'equilibrium. There may be enough stress just from this to cause eventual cracking. If there are any external changes, then for sure the wood will stress relief by cracking. I will be doing this to the larger planes I make.
I have a little doubt about the coffin shape of the plane. I have heard that this forms is to expouse the nost quantitt of endegrain in the surface to avoid nost wood movements. Is this right or is to make it comfortable to the hand grip?
Shape for confort. Extra exposed end grain wont stop wood movement.
Can I get in touch with tou please. I'VE built one. I need advise?
Either email abrahamhyatt@gmail.com or instagram @workingwoodenplanes is good
Always see guys talking about planes with chip breakers, my jointer chokes but doesnt have a chip breaker. Thinks it could be the width between the iron and the front of the mouth?
It can also be catching in the wedge , especially if it seems to be catching on the sides
Any obstacle the shavings encounter may cause it to collapse and clog. Make sure there are none in your plane.
What about planes that don’t have a chip breaker/cap?
If the plane was designed for an iron with a chip breaker, you absolutely need to use one. Irons that need a chip breaker will have a hole in them (for the screw that attaches the iron to the chip breaker) and a groove in the throat for that screw. Planes that are built for a single iron won't have that groove. There are plenty of single iron planes out there. They typically require a much tighter mouth than a double iron plane. The iron is also usually bedded at a lower angle.
Q: Just wondering- what is the purpose of the button on the top of the toe of the plane? Seen at minute 15:00... thanks.
It’s called a strike button. You hit it with a mallet to loosen the iron. Thanks for watching!
Skipping is indeed very hard to fix for me
Thanks for the video. You’ve explained things very well. I got a jack plane to restore from eBay recently and have an issue I haven’t seen addressed.
So I left the plane disassembled on my table for a month or so. And now the iron won’t fit back into the throat. Does seasonal wood movement make the slot for the iron shrink to where it doesn’t fit anymore? Is that something that happens?
Oh man, that sucks! You're correct. Humidity and temperature will cause wood movement in a plane. I haven't run into your problem myself but I wonder if storing the plane in a cool dry environment might cause it shrink back? Let me know if you find a solution.
После 4 ой минуты Как он стружет рука дрожит Фуганок будто с рельса слетит Это лично моё мнение,,
My wooden plabe won't cut prroperly and is driving me nuts
This is umm very good umm information so umm I clicked the umm like button but umm the speaker needs umm a bit more umm practice umm speaking. I look umm forward to umm more improved umm videos in the umm future.
Good info, but say, "umm" every other sentence is killing me.
I love the video but not the format. Your voiceover is great but I do not need to actually see you talking which takes up the screen and is distracting.
When we have electric planers wooden and mechanical becomes outdated.
That's true unless: You don't have space for an electric planer, can't afford it, are afraid of them, don't want to make as much noice. Also you just might like the handplane.
Uhhm, uhmmm, uhmmm, uhmmm! Good lord, learn how to speak!