I once had an Asian made lathe. I used it for a shorttime (for bootstrapping to a quality lathe) while I rebuilt and some American made old iron. The most enjoyable day I had was the day I cut that Chinesium lathe into 6 pieces, took it outside, and dumped it into the recycle bin.
I messed around for a while trying to get the clamping lever just in the right place, then realised it all gets messed up when you change the compound angle! Always learning on these things. I've just bought a Chester Db10, thinking it woukd be the answer to all my prayers.... Getting horrendous chatter, think it needs new bearings 🤦♂️
@@Darren_Barclay I already had the db7, which is the same machine as the Warco I believe. For some reason, I suddenly had the urge to become the owner of two lathes! 😂 It is helpful having the one there in order to repair the other though. You got any plans for a heavier machine?
@@gavroagogo yeah definitely helps having two if your other is a project one or needs some restoration work. And yeah hopefully find myself a bigger one in time. As the mini lathes are very limited. I’ve been looking at Harrison lathes and colchester lathes but I think am shooting above my weight, quite literally as they weight up wards of 500kg they would probably be far to heavy for my workshop and the space is very limited. The space I have my mini lathe the now is where I’d like to put one, a DB10 would fit on my bench. Just need to save up some money and hopefully find one that’ll fit. But I’d love to get a floor one, it’s just the weight that’s the issue and then getting it up in to my workshop, that would be a project in itself.
Bummer about that piece getting bent. There's also roller thrust bearings that are a bit thinner. I'm really surprised you can get 3mm cuts on this little thing. I don't know how it manages it at all. I've seen videos to improve the rigidity, one that was impressive was bolting it to a thick steel plate, but technically a big square tube would be better because what you need is torsional stiffness. Thank you for the video, I love seeing what these little things can do.
Yeah it was a silly mistake but it worked the way I wanted. Well it’s a powerful we machine, when I got it, it could take 1.5 maybe 2mm cuts but the finish wasn’t greats I’ve made quite a few upgrades to it and it’s bolted to my bench which is solid. The biggest improvement was rebuilding the cross slide with the solid tool post. getting that and the saddle working correctly plans a big part of it, then it’s just the right speeds and feeds. You need to run it fast and push it through quicker than you’d think, then I use carbide inserts. Anyway am glad you enjoyed the video.
the short end was designed to go into the carrier and the long was for the lock to move up and down on. the stud should be locked into the carrier with locktight as you did not not the moving head. doing it that way causes rigidity issues.
Yeah if I put it on the carrier end it only gives me like 2 threads, so I’ve done it the way I have as it gives me more threads which are equal for both sides. That part I got with the lathe which came with the original tool post, since I changed it the quick tool post is slightly higher than the original, using it that way hasn’t changed much but I see what your talking about, I do plan on getting a longer threaded rod so it’s screwed in a lot more but I’ve got 5 threads engaged on both sides, but I appreciate your comment.
I once had an Asian made lathe. I used it for a shorttime (for bootstrapping to a quality lathe) while I rebuilt and some American made old iron. The most enjoyable day I had was the day I cut that Chinesium lathe into 6 pieces, took it outside, and dumped it into the recycle bin.
lol I hear you.
keep having fun in the shop, great job cutting the ball, and taper free hand.
Thanks man glad you liked it, yeah loads of practice.
I messed around for a while trying to get the clamping lever just in the right place, then realised it all gets messed up when you change the compound angle! Always learning on these things. I've just bought a Chester Db10, thinking it woukd be the answer to all my prayers.... Getting horrendous chatter, think it needs new bearings 🤦♂️
Yeah that’s a nice bit of kit am sure the more you use it the better you’ll be on it.
@@Darren_Barclay I already had the db7, which is the same machine as the Warco I believe. For some reason, I suddenly had the urge to become the owner of two lathes! 😂 It is helpful having the one there in order to repair the other though. You got any plans for a heavier machine?
@@gavroagogo yeah definitely helps having two if your other is a project one or needs some restoration work. And yeah hopefully find myself a bigger one in time. As the mini lathes are very limited. I’ve been looking at Harrison lathes and colchester lathes but I think am shooting above my weight, quite literally as they weight up wards of 500kg they would probably be far to heavy for my workshop and the space is very limited. The space I have my mini lathe the now is where I’d like to put one, a DB10 would fit on my bench. Just need to save up some money and hopefully find one that’ll fit. But I’d love to get a floor one, it’s just the weight that’s the issue and then getting it up in to my workshop, that would be a project in itself.
I love the Scottish dialect
Bummer about that piece getting bent. There's also roller thrust bearings that are a bit thinner.
I'm really surprised you can get 3mm cuts on this little thing. I don't know how it manages it at all.
I've seen videos to improve the rigidity, one that was impressive was bolting it to a thick steel plate, but technically a big square tube would be better because what you need is torsional stiffness.
Thank you for the video, I love seeing what these little things can do.
Yeah it was a silly mistake but it worked the way I wanted. Well it’s a powerful we machine, when I got it, it could take 1.5 maybe 2mm cuts but the finish wasn’t greats I’ve made quite a few upgrades to it and it’s bolted to my bench which is solid. The biggest improvement was rebuilding the cross slide with the solid tool post. getting that and the saddle working correctly plans a big part of it, then it’s just the right speeds and feeds. You need to run it fast and push it through quicker than you’d think, then I use carbide inserts. Anyway am glad you enjoyed the video.
the short end was designed to go into the carrier and the long was for the lock to move up and down on. the stud should be locked into the carrier with locktight as you did not not the moving head. doing it that way causes rigidity issues.
Yeah if I put it on the carrier end it only gives me like 2 threads, so I’ve done it the way I have as it gives me more threads which are equal for both sides. That part I got with the lathe which came with the original tool post, since I changed it the quick tool post is slightly higher than the original, using it that way hasn’t changed much but I see what your talking about, I do plan on getting a longer threaded rod so it’s screwed in a lot more but I’ve got 5 threads engaged on both sides, but I appreciate your comment.
@@Darren_Barclay makes sense sir! :)