Thank you for this. My son passed away last year so I am teaching myself all about his wheeler. I have the same issue right now on my (his)2017 Outlander. Much appreciated.
Very impressive. I have one with less than 200 miles on it. Almost all plowing so far. I'm having to hump that thing every single time I stop and back up, or go ahead. Sucks! Glad its a cheap easy DIY fix. Thanks man!
Thanks for this gem of knowledge! I need to look into fixing this problem on mine. Have you or anyone else in the comments ever take out the front drive shaft to replace worn out universal joints? I'm wondering if I need to move the front diff forward to have enough room to pull out the drive shaft.
Good job. I just paid $1000 to have that done. Some parts test good but are really bad like on my 570 the tank fuel pump tested good in the shop but would fail if the gas tank was half full. I didn’t mind paying a lot because I don’t know how to work on the clutch and once fixed the machine is good for a long time
I’ve been STRESSINGGGGG about this on Can-Am Renegade 570 Xxc for weeks, no decent videos on here then bang. Literally first 10 seconds I KNEW this is exactly the video I’ve been searching for! 👍🏻💪🏻🤞🏻
Hey man, awesome video. I have one question. So I just changed out the bearings and added the friction washer, but the atv wants to move forward slowly in high and move backwards slowly in reverse. What could that be? Too much grease, no grease on friction washer? I'm not sure. Hope to hear from you thanks!
Hey, I have a question relating to this exact issue with my 15 outlander max xt1000. Awesome explanation by the way, however it would’ve been great if you could’ve actually demonstrated with the machine or very least showed us this friction washer. My question is, based on your theory with the machine running, this problem exists, but also with my machine off, the transmission still acts in the same exact manner. You have to rock it in order to shift through the gears. Can you or someone explain this? There’s so many videos of people messing with the linkage adjustment and or replacing the plastic shift linkage bracket with a billet aluminum one, but I’ve yet to see anyone showing the before or after affects of the said problem repaired. Interested in any helpful feedback or suggested videos. Thanks in advance. Btw, I have not done any tampering with my unit other then regular maintenance. 1100km and 95% just used to plow my driveway here in southern Ontario and is very frustrating with all the shifting I have to do just to plow snow. Cheers 🍻
@Eastcoastin469 I'll be sure to make a video to explain further. Until then, here is a shorthand explanation: If the machine is operating as designed, while the engine is running and ATV is stationary; the belt has a small amount of tension/vibration. This helps the gears to spline. If the friction washer is worn, or non-existent, there is not enough tension movement of the belt.... If the one way bearing is failing, there is too much tension and it binds up. With the atv off, there is no movement vibration of the belt, which is why you have to "rock" it into gear. Hope this helps. Over time, the friction washer wears back down, and it becomes hard to shift again.
@@JimmyLeeTennessee gotcha! 👍I’ll be looking forward to an updated video. Thanks for the reply.🙏🏻 Until them I guess I’ll have to pull off my cvt cover and investigate further. Cheers! 🍻
Really to fix the Can Am shake “hump” you just need to adjust shifter arm linkage the long arm and the two bends in the shift linkage arm makes it finicky to adjust! They get it close at the factory and call good enough! It’s on the right side under the plastic near your knee. It uses a barrel adjustment with locking nut.
If you struggle to shift while the machine is off and on, this might work. If it shifts fine with the machine off and needs the hump while it's on, then the one way bearing is the way to go
So did it almost feel like the ATV was idling too high to get it in and out of gears? That is what I’m having a problem with right now. Put it in reverse and the bike starts moving before I hit the Throttle.
That means you've got clutch drag! Definitely pull the cover off and start it. Carefully see what's going on but do not get near the clutch while it's spinning because you can get seriously injured if the clutch grabs your clothing.
My outlander 650XT shifts hard at time and only has 177 miles on it. I got it used from someone a few months ago. Would this be the same scenario as your 1000?
I think im having clutch/trans problems. About a yr ago my shifter just wouldn't engage, before that id always have to rock it in order to get it in gear. I took off my primary clutch and looked into the 1 way bearing and its was all tore up. My question is now that I have the clutch out shouldn't my trans shift freely through all the gears without the bike running? Or does that clutch need to be put back in so the 1 way bearing can engage so the trans/shifter can move through the gears. Cause right now all clutch and belt components are out but my shifter won't move at all, like it stuck in neutral and the shifter rod connected to the trans won't budge. Please help
I think I might have a bigger issue on it now that I took it out today 😢 there's a crack on the passenger side of the transmission housing. Goes all the way from the top to the bottom on that right side, looks like on the casing it bubbles out to house a gear or something on the bottom part of the trans
My 450 has done this since the day i bought it brand new. Loaded it up on the lot and thought oh well must just be how its sitting. 5 years later, nothing has changed. Tried adjusting linkage, nope. Been a good bike otherwise but next time ill get a polaris
Hoping that’s the fix for mine. The friction ring was broken. So I have new one on order. My belt keeps spinning and spinning the secondary clutch which is causing it to not shift unless it’s off.
@@Jason-ly6ng not bad at all. Hold the primary and break the bolt loose. Then retain the tiny springs on the one way bearing... there are plenty of videos on it
Thank you for this. My son passed away last year so I am teaching myself all about his wheeler. I have the same issue right now on my (his)2017 Outlander. Much appreciated.
@susanmontgomery5418 thanks for watching!
Very impressive. I have one with less than 200 miles on it. Almost all plowing so far. I'm having to hump that thing every single time I stop and back up, or go ahead. Sucks! Glad its a cheap easy DIY fix. Thanks man!
This guy gets after it!! thank you brother!!
Great explanation, I just wish you would have opened it up and demonstrated what you were talking about. A picture is worth a thousand words.
I definitely would have if I weren't pressed for time when I made the video, sorry. Next time though!
Thanks for this gem of knowledge! I need to look into fixing this problem on mine. Have you or anyone else in the comments ever take out the front drive shaft to replace worn out universal joints? I'm wondering if I need to move the front diff forward to have enough room to pull out the drive shaft.
I haven't done that myself, but if I end up doing it I'll let ya know. I got one on the fritz as well!
good information, never thought the clutch set up would cause this problem,
Good job. I just paid $1000 to have that done. Some parts test good but are really bad like on my 570 the tank fuel pump tested good in the shop but would fail if the gas tank was half full. I didn’t mind paying a lot because I don’t know how to work on the clutch and once fixed the machine is good for a long time
I’ve been STRESSINGGGGG about this on Can-Am Renegade 570 Xxc for weeks, no decent videos on here then bang.
Literally first 10 seconds I KNEW this is exactly the video I’ve been searching for!
👍🏻💪🏻🤞🏻
Thanks for watching, please subscribe
Hey man, awesome video. I have one question. So I just changed out the bearings and added the friction washer, but the atv wants to move forward slowly in high and move backwards slowly in reverse. What could that be? Too much grease, no grease on friction washer? I'm not sure. Hope to hear from you thanks!
Something is creating excess drag. I'd try starting it with the cover off and observing carefully.
Also, thanks for watching!
Hey, I have a question relating to this exact issue with my 15 outlander max xt1000. Awesome explanation by the way, however it would’ve been great if you could’ve actually demonstrated with the machine or very least showed us this friction washer. My question is, based on your theory with the machine running, this problem exists, but also with my machine off, the transmission still acts in the same exact manner. You have to rock it in order to shift through the gears. Can you or someone explain this? There’s so many videos of people messing with the linkage adjustment and or replacing the plastic shift linkage bracket with a billet aluminum one, but I’ve yet to see anyone showing the before or after affects of the said problem repaired. Interested in any helpful feedback or suggested videos. Thanks in advance. Btw, I have not done any tampering with my unit other then regular maintenance. 1100km and 95% just used to plow my driveway here in southern Ontario and is very frustrating with all the shifting I have to do just to plow snow. Cheers 🍻
@Eastcoastin469 I'll be sure to make a video to explain further. Until then, here is a shorthand explanation:
If the machine is operating as designed, while the engine is running and ATV is stationary; the belt has a small amount of tension/vibration. This helps the gears to spline. If the friction washer is worn, or non-existent, there is not enough tension movement of the belt.... If the one way bearing is failing, there is too much tension and it binds up. With the atv off, there is no movement vibration of the belt, which is why you have to "rock" it into gear. Hope this helps. Over time, the friction washer wears back down, and it becomes hard to shift again.
@@JimmyLeeTennessee gotcha! 👍I’ll be looking forward to an updated video. Thanks for the reply.🙏🏻 Until them I guess I’ll have to pull off my cvt cover and investigate further. Cheers! 🍻
Great video. I have an 06 800xt which does the same. Also, just lost brakes. Handle has no resistance. Any ideas on what that could be?
Not sure brother! Have to look at it to tell.
Really to fix the Can Am shake “hump” you just need to adjust shifter arm linkage the long arm and the two bends in the shift linkage arm makes it finicky to adjust! They get it close at the factory and call good enough! It’s on the right side under the plastic near your knee. It uses a barrel adjustment with locking nut.
I tried that first. Didn't fix my issue. Thanks for sharing though!
If you struggle to shift while the machine is off and on, this might work. If it shifts fine with the machine off and needs the hump while it's on, then the one way bearing is the way to go
Shift linkage adjustment didnt work for me. Would definitely make it worse, but never got any better
So did it almost feel like the ATV was idling too high to get it in and out of gears? That is what I’m having a problem with right now. Put it in reverse and the bike starts moving before I hit the Throttle.
That means you've got clutch drag! Definitely pull the cover off and start it.
Carefully see what's going on but do not get near the clutch while it's spinning because you can get seriously injured if the clutch grabs your clothing.
I just bought -10 400 outlander and have that humping problem too. Have to check that friction plate, thanks
My outlander 650XT shifts hard at time and only has 177 miles on it. I got it used from someone a few months ago. Would this be the same scenario as your 1000?
I would assume so. Probably a design flaw.
great job man and info thanks
I think im having clutch/trans problems. About a yr ago my shifter just wouldn't engage, before that id always have to rock it in order to get it in gear. I took off my primary clutch and looked into the 1 way bearing and its was all tore up. My question is now that I have the clutch out shouldn't my trans shift freely through all the gears without the bike running? Or does that clutch need to be put back in so the 1 way bearing can engage so the trans/shifter can move through the gears. Cause right now all clutch and belt components are out but my shifter won't move at all, like it stuck in neutral and the shifter rod connected to the trans won't budge. Please help
Yes it has to be running in order to shift smothly due to its design. Make sure neither of the clutches are locked up and can spin freely.
I think I might have a bigger issue on it now that I took it out today 😢 there's a crack on the passenger side of the transmission housing. Goes all the way from the top to the bottom on that right side, looks like on the casing it bubbles out to house a gear or something on the bottom part of the trans
@wallygator7508 oh no!! Dude I'm sorry to hear that. Did something specific cause it?
My 450 has done this since the day i bought it brand new. Loaded it up on the lot and thought oh well must just be how its sitting. 5 years later, nothing has changed. Tried adjusting linkage, nope. Been a good bike otherwise but next time ill get a polaris
@UserFormelyKnownAs_hjkh honestly I prefer polaris.
He is right just move it forward and back the motorcycle and change gears same time the motorcycle and the shift and it would move and it work
Nicely done!
Hoping that’s the fix for mine. The friction ring was broken. So I have new one on order. My belt keeps spinning and spinning the secondary clutch which is causing it to not shift unless it’s off.
Bearings seam free like you had said so not sure if I want to replace them
@@Jason-ly6ng I would just go ahead while you are in there. Don't want to waste your time
Are the bearings a pain to repair or take off ?
@@Jason-ly6ng not bad at all. Hold the primary and break the bolt loose. Then retain the tiny springs on the one way bearing... there are plenty of videos on it
Perfect. Video was a lifesaver. Thanks
Sounds Good thank you!
Secondary clutch wasn’t shimmed from factory on mine. I shimmed mine .020.
What the brand of the lube do you use for lubrication fricsion seal? Oem to much expensive... Thanks
Yes it is. That's why I used Super Lube.
Hi I have a 850 renegade xxc with the same issue. What kit do I need. Gonna try to fix myself. Thank you
Order an aluminum shifter bracket, adjust the shift rod and the problem is fixed
do you have a part number for the friction ring, not sure what Im looking at on the exploded parts view
420460430
Great vid bro this is a big help greats from Holland 💪🏻👍🏻
Great info.....thanks
Going to try this. Hope it's a fix.
Do you have a video on how you did it?
I don't unfortunately!
What website did you order the parts from
I think the ring came from Amazon and bearings from ebay.
What’s the Amazon part links?
@scottboss18 for the friction washer and bearing? I think i actually went to a can-am parts website.
My 2009 500xt did the same thing!!!
Hell yeah
.
How to get into the shifter
You have to remove the plastics and air filter box cover from what I remember.
I bought a 2017 outlander a year ago and I wish I never did! I've tried everything to make it shift smoother! I hate this $8000 mistake!
Can't beat the power though! That's the only thing it has going for it.
Grease is Kluber isoflex topas nb52
Thanks
The 450s don’t have them
I hate a Can-Am...
I've felt that way many times lol
Just want to make sure I’m tracking…. I just need to lube the friction washer?
No you have to lube the one way bearing and replace the friction washer.
@@JimmyLeeTennessee thank you - happen to have the part#?
@@RMC2021 not handy! I believe i looked it up on the Can-AM website.