This gown is so well-tailored that it is rather tricky to tell that it's inside out. If not for the designer's tag, it would almost seem reversible. How gorgeous. So magnificently done.
You know it’s sewn well and haute couture when the inside is made so well you can wear it on the outside. I love the inside of this gown. This is what beginner sewists need to see. Thanks for not just showing the what but for also explaining the why. Loved this video. Happy sewing. 🩷
If this video makes folks curious about the finer points of tailoring and dressmaking, then it’s served it’s purpose. The finer techniques involving interlinings and interfacings, disguised closures, intricate piecing, and elegant draping are generally lost in today’s commercial patterns, which favor quick construction over good fit and beautiful clothing.
I agree. I appreciate the extra comments though since they expand information but the critique of his information is bad. He's showing details a good majority of society isn't aware of and making it sweet and fun.
Nick could you please start an online fashion school because aspiring designers would love to gain knowledge from a renowned and amazing designer like you!!And these videos are truly helpful!!!
This is fascinating. There's so much going on inside that dress, yet you would never know it from seeing it on a person. It appears effortlessly beautiful.
I just loved listening to your video, I have sewed for years, and over time these technics have been set aside. You are fabulous to listen to, happy sewing!
Thanks for sharing. Please show more. People need to know the difference of well made dress than the ones they find on internet. They need to understand that this kind of hardwork has a value.
this is still the kindergarden version of couture .. seriously modern "masters" of their crafts are like a second hand tea bag compared to the skills historical dressmakers possessed
Thanks, Nick! I loved this episode. I made a dress for my sister to wear as mother of the bride 10 years ago. I used most of the steps you recommend for structuring a finely made gown, including boning, horsehair braid at the hem, underlining, interlining, and full lining. The gown turned out beautifully and my sister received compliments all evening long. Success! It was a labor of love for a dear sister, and all my extra work was worth it! (She was initially worried that the boning would be uncomfortable, but since it took the place of additional undergarments, she found the dress very comfortable.)
Why a I here? I am 70 yrs old and sure wished I had this talent when I was young. High waist and long legs didn't get me much in my fashioned minded (to include shoes shoes shoes). I see clothes today that I wished would have been available in the late '50s and '60s when I was young. I just love to learn anything and everything I can about everything! My mother asked me once why I didn't make my own curtains, explaining that it's only sewing a straight line. I replied "Exactly and I can't sew a straight line!" I just subscribed here because as I said, I LOVE TO LEARN NEW THINGS.
Beautiful gown. Great explanation of the methodology! I personally love that you added a petticoat--it probably helps the person wearing it feel even more comfortable and warm.
This video is a life saver! Now, I can make gowns with no sleeves maybe even strapless because I won't have to worry about hiding a bra underneath. Thank you!
Nick, I just discovered your channel 3 weeks ago. I binge-watched a bunch of your videos and in 2 weeks made a costume ball gown from padding a dress form to match my figure, to draping a fitted princess seam bodice and skirt, made the pattern, tested it, and just finished a stunning gown! I had so much fun with your secrets and it’s wonderful to have a garment that fits me perfectly. Thank you. You have a gift for teaching and you’ve put a wealth of content out. I’m looking forward to learning much more.
Thank you Nick! It’s fantastic to learn about what goes into making these dresses. Some people are saying that it’s better to use metal on the corsets instead of plastic, but I think if the feeling is similar to that of bras, it is much comfortable to wear a structure made of plastic (or even embroidery.)
moara No doubt. I’m an E cup and couldn’t help laughing at that. I’ve worn gowns where I didn’t need a bra. But they’ve had metal boning, no plastic strips.
its more about the fabric than just the boning alone, but especially for larger busted ladies it is a literal weight of your shoulders. i would sooner look to someone that actually knows corsets or at least dress history for the reasoning behind certain materials and placements
@@laadydaraoke9690 Someone with a bigger bust can still fit in that dress... You can be small and have a bigger bust... And the person wearing that same dress with a big bust wouldn't be comfortable...
That's exactly what i jumped on here to say! Plastic boning kinks and those sharp bends can jab into you. Talk about painful! Coiled steel boning is lightweight, flexes forwards and sideways, AND it won't kink!
Plastic boning doesnt do what it has to do for me 🤣 it does sinch my wasi but it litteraly just folds in my wais because my waist j still pretty tiny, but my waist,ribs and bust are all pretty wide, so it looks all weird while wearing steel or spiral it does not fold at all and just really sinch in my waist how jt is supposed to
As someone who wears corsets regularly, acrylic (plastic, nylon, etc) is generally more fragile and buckles a lot easier. If you're working with someone who's more curvy, steel may be a better option so they're not being stabbed with broken boning. (I've been there -- most girls have with a busted underwire too.) Just a comment I thought I'd add, steel is more expensive too but I find it more comfortable because it doesn't buckle as easily and cinches my pear-shape into a beautiful hourglass.
Oh my goodness Nick you are a DREAM! I have learned so much from your videos. Getting your book tomorrow from Amazon. Thank you always for your time and informative instructions. Take care. :)
I am a sewer a dress maker, after watching this video I want to be like you a fashion designer... Thank you for sharing it inspired me alot....from Philippines lots of love❣️❣️❣️❣️❣️
Nick thank you and thank goodness I found this channel. I have a new found love with dress making. My mom studied dress making and she teaches me some tricks and tips, though, sometimes she can’t remember most because of old age but with the help of your channel I get to figure them out. A million thanks. Awesome🎉❤
I just discovered this video and I'll have to watch more, only in part for the sewing tips, but more because he is simply lovely to watch. Nick, you have a wonderful energy and charisma and you could talk about aluminum foil and still be interesting. Kudos and all the best of everything to you!
Such an amazing video! I'm going to make my own wedding dress some day so everything I learn from you is incredibly valuable. Please keep going! Love from Germany :)
I use spiral steel boning and it is very comfortable. Silk organza from moodfabrics isn’t that expensive. Though a whole gowns worth is. I made my wedding dress entirely out of silk besides the zipper, stays, and lace. Making my own was something I’ll always be happy I did. Unfortunately I ran out of time to sew in my own shaping and used my grandmothers crinoline.. I miss dressmaking
Using silk inside of a garment (for the lining, interfacing, underlining, etc.) isn't about it being seen. It's about comfort and breathability. There is no sense in creating a luscious looking gown it it doesn't feel comfortable. That's why you'll see clothes at Dior, Chanel, etc., even off the rack, with synthetic fabrics on the outside, and silk linings. The nicest feeling fabric should be the one closest to the skin. Linings also need to be absorbent. If you cheap out on a polyester lining, you're going to end up with sweat stains on the outside silk fabric. And if you're talking about Haute Couture, Haute Couture bodices aren't usually lined. They're underlined, so that silk organza is visible to the wearer. Bodice linings are generally for pret a porter garments. It's easier and cheaper to line a garment rather than having to finish all the seam edges on the inside. In cheaper gowns the lining also serves as the foundation. *cough* I almost never like this technique because it makes the dress extremely difficult to alter, and it's less supportive and less secure than a separate foundation sewn into the gown. (Preferably with a second set of closures. You don't want to rely on a dress zipper for anything you're cinched into. Alexander McQueen tends to put a heavy zipper into the foundation, and an invisible zipper into the outer gown. This is more practical than the traditional method of using hooks for the foundation, since not a lot of people have maids to dress them. Hooks are admittedly smoother and less bulky though. If you're making something like a wedding gown, where the woman will have help getting dressed, use hooks.) A separate foundation with an underlined bodies also has the advantage of looking smoother, especially over time, or if the dress is too tight. Nothing looks cheaper than visible lines of boning.
Quick question - how do you finish the seam edges on the inside? I'm currently making a gown using organza as interfacing and am trying to decide whether to line or not. Don't want ugly raw seams on the inside and don't have a serger or finisher :(
Seams usually neatly overcast by hand, but they can also be serged occasionally. Depending on how complicated the bodice is, and how thin the outside fabric is, you can also do a Hong Kong finish with bias strips of more organza, or china silk. (If the fabric is very thin, the bindings might make the seam allowances too visible.) Usually Couture gowns have a foundation which covers the seams on the inside, so just overcasting the edges is enough. Without seeing the design or the fabric, It's kind of hard to say. If you're making something like a slip dress, or a 1930s style gown, in something with a lot of drape, like charmeuse or silk/rayon velvet, overcasting the seams would be the best choice since it won't interfere with the drape of the fabric. If you're making anything close fitting, like a strapless gown, I'd definitely add a foundation. Even if you don't need it for shape, it helps support the skirt, and you won't have to worry about bra straps, or finding a bra to go with it. The foundation will cover the seams something like a lining would, but I would still overcast the seams. (If you're short on time, a small zigzag will do.) Cotton tulle is most traditional for a foundation, but it's hard to find and fairly expensive. Charmeuse is nice too. I've used light weight cotton, like batiste, before too. That's inexpensive, and absorbent. Don't use anything marketed as lining fabric for a foundation. Unless you/your client is fairly flat chested (no larger than a B cup) the foundation should be styled like a bustier. (A darted bodice will also work, with center darts to shape between the bust. It should be like a second skin. I usually prefer a bustier.) It shouldn't be styled like a princess lined bodice like the dress in the video. Unless you add a bunch of stays, sew in cups, etc. that's just not supportive enough, and it doesn't provide any real shaping to the body. If the gown doesn't need a foundation because it has a high neck, isn't terribly fitted, whatever, Hong Kong seams look very nice. (This is also a nice treatment for like the lace overlay on a wedding gown. You can underline and bind the seams in organza.)
Morgan Glines wow, this was super helpful, thank you! I’m basically copying the design of Alfred Sung D659 (dessy.com/dresses/bridesmaid/d659/) in silk dupioni. It’s a nicely fitted princess cut that supports the bust and the thick shoulder straps give it quite a bit of stability but I’m having trouble lining it neatly in the neckline/decollete, especially with those tight corners
@@DandelionPink672 If I were to make that gown I would probably put small squares of fusible (Tricot, or weft knit, depending on what I had on hand in a light weight, and unobtrusive color.) in the corners. I would underline the whole dress (or at least the bodice) and put in a foundation, at least over the bust area. (Not 100% necessary, but it's my preference.) I would finish the neckline and straps with a facing. I would understitch as much of the neck edge facing as I could. I'm guessing about an inch or two from the base of the strap, across the neck, an inch or two from the base of the strap across the lower arm hole, and same for the back. I would attach the facing to the bodice seam allowances on the inside with thread chains. Unless I was making that dress out of a fabric that's not pleasant against the skin, I wouldn't line it. An underlining, with Hong Kong finished seams, or overcast seams would be really nice. Alternatively, you can also pickstitch all of the edges from the inside instead of the understitching. . That's a more Couture style finish, but it's obviously more work, and takes a bit of skill to do neatly.
Great tips/secrets and what a lovely dress. Its nice to have an idea what to look for when buying a formal/ball gown. Thanks ☺ The boning in corsets was originally made from reeds. Corsets need to support, be flexible and were only uncomfortable if the wearer sinched too tightly.
@Fly by night Did you ever think that possibly he IS gearing his tutorials towards 3rd graders? My daughter thinks he's great. And so do I. Just bc he's speaking to beginners doesn't mean it's beneath him. If you're so professional and great, then why are you slumming it here with us peasants? 😤
@cockney gyal It seems like a lost art now, but knowing how to sew was considered such a necessity it was a required class (home economics) in every middle school in America. You're spot on about fabric availability and quality--it was "real fabric" that held up after many, many, washings; and it was actually cheaper to make your own clothing (and accessories) rather than buy them. I'm with you--feeling the texture of the fabric before buying it is very important and half the fun. Fortunately, I have a nice stockpile of well-made fabric for when I get the urge to make something better than off the rack.
I'd just planned on buying upholstery piping, double sided hem tape and 9-foot rolls of dollar ribbon to create essentially the same thing instead. The flat boning is also just the same thickness and type of polymer as kids splat mats and the floor of fabric shopping bags that helps them hold their rectangular shape, zip ties, any number of similar products in home improvement isles and stores. Some of the stiffer types of ribbon, often the heaviest ones for gift wrap, or the skinniest wired ribbon also housed inside a larger one to safely hide the wire could work as well, depending on the fabric and piece its supposed to be giving structure. I tend to DIY my way out of paying for such simple things through the nose when it takes minutes to duplicate them for much less, especially with costumes. I'd rethink some of the cheaper methods if it was intended for a formal.
Actually, I've used long plastic cable ties/zip ties from the dollarstore or somtimes the hardware store on a lot of my projects. It works equally well to substitute nylon bonings. I just cut off the end part and it's a cheaper alternative. Of course, the difference is that the expensive stuff lasts longer and doesn't tend to warp over time. Worth a shot if you can't afford expensive boning.
Thank you so much for the educational videos. All the haters on here if you think he's doing it wrong where is your videos? All Education helps everyone...
1. Horsehair Trim (Netting the Hem) 2. Tulle Petticoat (add satin lining over tulle) 3. Built-in corset 4. Boning 5. Interfacing 6. Hand-sewn loop of the "hook & eye" - don't use a metal-loop.
This guy is so extra! Love it! Will never use his pro techniques, but appreciate he's sharing it on a level even beginners can understand. New subby here.
That is a basic thing in general indian fashions. That hand_done loop thing. We call it "Gaaj" in hindi. And the tulle you used inside the skirt we call it "can can" for local understanding. 😜
Shriya Pujari XD Same, it is in Bengali fashion too. I never knew a name for it, though. I wish my mom would show me how to sew thread loops. We never get the metal eyes, but just the hooks.
Ash Heaven look on Pinterest it’s not difficult once you understand the concept. The way I do it is once I’ve decided the length of the “eye” I sew that loop with doubled thread 3 times. Then I tie the thread around the loop until the entire length is covered. Kind of like a simple friendship bracelet, or macrame is done.
Love your energy and you look so happy :) I'll incorporate all your secrets when I'm making my daughter's wedding dress. I've never sewn anything like this so I'm happy to learn tricks and things from you!
1 loved the first interfacing you first showed us. I have not found that kind, yet. 2 For the much larger bust women, then the models, we have to wear the bras still. Once one gets over DD you can't just go with the simple stuff in a dress, unless there is actual underwire sewn in it.
I agree fully. Being a bigger size bust with some sag, it is impossible to wear anything without enough support. Hardly any gowns have enough support by themselves, so it is easier to have a separate bra/corset and opt for gowns that don't reveal them :P
It's just a basic video, not an online course. Bodies these days sadly vary greatly, from size 0 to being lifted through the window with a forklift so it takes a lot of time to cover all of them with tips and tricks.
No wonder why you are so good at reviewing evening gowns in beauty pageants, especially those in Miss Universe. Can you give us techniques on how to sew column gowns that flow in the back bottom part like the one worn by Ariadna Gutierrez? They will be greatly appreciated. ❤
I think you have a lot of misconceptions about boning. The only reason metal would ever hurt is if it’s done wrong. It’s no different than plastic, except it’s stronger and more durable
Also, whalebone wasn’t much different than modern nylon, it was only the process of how it was broken into the individual bones that made it expensive and also for the lower classes, if you couldn’t afford steel or whalebone, you would use rushes, which is like a stiff grass which grows near rivers, or reeds, which is similar to rushes.
Metal should be *more* comfortable than plastic since it's more flexible, and flexes side to side instead of just back to front. Spiral steel is almost always preferable to plastic/nylon boning. There are a few instances where Rigeline is better, but regular boning is never the best choice.
In the early sixteenth century rushes were one of the preferred methods of corset making. Another was cording. I have made a corded corest and found it was comfortable and far cooler to wear in warm temperatures. One word of warning though, cording, unlike rushes, isn't as supportive and for large busted women may need an extra boost from plastic or steel.
Where have you been all my life? (Well, you weren't born yet for a bunch of it!) You are improving my sewing and designing incredibly! I spent several years just watching my Aunt sew and picking up things from here. She sewed from Senator's wives inaugural gowns, Governor's wives inaugural gowns, and even did the men's clothing for "A Time to Kill." Now that I've retired, I'm actually putting together costumes for rental and clothing that has been in my head for years. (I even won the grand prize in Fashion Week in our State, faint, shock!) I'm learning so very much from you with the muslin pattern making. I'd LOVE to see some of the twist treatments. Like at the neck (for an older woman that still wants to be chic) and the twist at the center right of the waist. Please consider doing some videos on those techniques. And that you for finding your way into my cyber life!
We was putting plastic stripes in inner corset for proper chest shape with the chest pad.. and we were using double face fusing tape for bottom hememing , no need heming stitches and stuff got stiff also.. these was my secrets and lot of more if you need sir.. these type of fashions even existing long back ago which called italian fashion.
Hi Nick!! I'm a retired singer and song writer. I love designing and sewing my own dresses. PLEASE SHOW ME MORE SECRETS!?!? I'm your new subscriber 😁 YOU'RE FABULOUS!!! Thank you for sharing this video ❤❤❤ (Erika)
This gown is so well-tailored that it is rather tricky to tell that it's inside out. If not for the designer's tag, it would almost seem reversible. How gorgeous. So magnificently done.
You know it’s sewn well and haute couture when the inside is made so well you can wear it on the outside. I love the inside of this gown. This is what beginner sewists need to see. Thanks for not just showing the what but for also explaining the why. Loved this video. Happy sewing. 🩷
If this video makes folks curious about the finer points of tailoring and dressmaking, then it’s served it’s purpose. The finer techniques involving interlinings and interfacings, disguised closures, intricate piecing, and elegant draping are generally lost in today’s commercial patterns, which favor quick construction over good fit and beautiful clothing.
I agree. I appreciate the extra comments though since they expand information but the critique of his information is bad. He's showing details a good majority of society isn't aware of and making it sweet and fun.
That's what I gleaned from it and I'm grateful for the information, even if his presentation is silly
Nick could you please start an online fashion school because aspiring designers would love to gain knowledge from a renowned and amazing designer like you!!And these videos are truly helpful!!!
Check out Zoe Hong at ZOEHONGTEACHES here on RUclips, entire education on her channel.
Ann Silveira
Qqso was a great Iomega.
I know mowings ppjk. BAqvo is the py
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@@MaryCateOMalley, yes, she's awesome!
Mary Cate O'Malley
I love great recommendations, thank you for sharing.
Especially one I can afford 😸
Beautiful name btw.
This is fascinating. There's so much going on inside that dress, yet you would never know it from seeing it on a person. It appears effortlessly beautiful.
And that is what it's all about!! Like figure skaters making their routines look effortless.
really? cs i could spot that hem miles away and that is not exactly what id call high end
Always his color combinations of jackets, neckties, shirts and pants are so lovely beautiful.
The more I look at this dress, the more I want to make one. It’s so beautiful
If candy was a person it would be this guy
peloid void talent flavored 😂
Lol
My name is Candy lol
Quit licking him like that!!!!
@@candylowen8800
Ss
I just loved listening to your video, I have sewed for years, and over time these technics have been set aside. You are fabulous to listen to, happy sewing!
your videos motivate me to continue learning and make my clothes to my style with professional finishes. Thanks a lot 👍😉😀
I've been watching for only 30 seconds and this guy is so entertaining, I don't care what he's telling me to wear!
Thanks for sharing. Please show more. People need to know the difference of well made dress than the ones they find on internet. They need to understand that this kind of hardwork has a value.
My mother always says, "You get what you pay for." Absolutely! So much skill goes into making a dress like this. 😍💝
this is still the kindergarden version of couture .. seriously modern "masters" of their crafts are like a second hand tea bag compared to the skills historical dressmakers possessed
Thanks, Nick! I loved this episode. I made a dress for my sister to wear as mother of the bride 10 years ago. I used most of the steps you recommend for structuring a finely made gown, including boning, horsehair braid at the hem, underlining, interlining, and full lining. The gown turned out beautifully and my sister received compliments all evening long. Success! It was a labor of love for a dear sister, and all my extra work was worth it! (She was initially worried that the boning would be uncomfortable, but since it took the place of additional undergarments, she found the dress very comfortable.)
I remember you! Hey Nick!!! You were always one of my favorites!
Why a I here? I am 70 yrs old and sure wished I had this talent when I was young. High waist and long legs didn't get me much in my fashioned minded (to include shoes shoes shoes). I see clothes today that I wished would have been available in the late '50s and '60s when I was young. I just love to learn anything and everything I can about everything! My mother asked me once why I didn't make my own curtains, explaining that it's only sewing a straight line. I replied "Exactly and I can't sew a straight line!" I just subscribed here because as I said, I LOVE TO LEARN NEW THINGS.
Beautiful gown. Great explanation of the methodology! I personally love that you added a petticoat--it probably helps the person wearing it feel even more comfortable and warm.
This video is a life saver! Now, I can make gowns with no sleeves maybe even strapless because I won't have to worry about hiding a bra underneath. Thank you!
Nick, I just discovered your channel 3 weeks ago. I binge-watched a bunch of your videos and in 2 weeks made a costume ball gown from padding a dress form to match my figure, to draping a fitted princess seam bodice and skirt, made the pattern, tested it, and just finished a stunning gown! I had so much fun with your secrets and it’s wonderful to have a garment that fits me perfectly. Thank you. You have a gift for teaching and you’ve put a wealth of content out. I’m looking forward to learning much more.
Great job!
This IS a high end gown!! Neat outfit, too. What a stylish dresser he is!!! Green & hot orchid go well together. Thanx for the 'secret' video.
Thank you Nick! It’s fantastic to learn about what goes into making these dresses. Some people are saying that it’s better to use metal on the corsets instead of plastic, but I think if the feeling is similar to that of bras, it is much comfortable to wear a structure made of plastic (or even embroidery.)
Wow! You've taken 18th and 19th Century methods to make beautiful gowns. A really good corset is actually quite comfortable. I love what you've done.
Lol, as a DD cup, I can tell you two little strips of plastic boning, are absolutely not going to replace a bra
moara No doubt. I’m an E cup and couldn’t help laughing at that. I’ve worn gowns where I didn’t need a bra. But they’ve had metal boning, no plastic strips.
its more about the fabric than just the boning alone, but especially for larger busted ladies it is a literal weight of your shoulders. i would sooner look to someone that actually knows corsets or at least dress history for the reasoning behind certain materials and placements
32FF. Hello my sister.
He was talking about the dress and the body type that would fit that dress..
@@laadydaraoke9690 Someone with a bigger bust can still fit in that dress... You can be small and have a bigger bust... And the person wearing that same dress with a big bust wouldn't be comfortable...
Another vote for metal boning over plastic! Especially for curvier figures.
That's exactly what i jumped on here to say! Plastic boning kinks and those sharp bends can jab into you. Talk about painful! Coiled steel boning is lightweight, flexes forwards and sideways, AND it won't kink!
Depends on the plastic boning really. Synthetic whale bone is incredible.
Plastic boning doesnt do what it has to do for me 🤣 it does sinch my wasi but it litteraly just folds in my wais because my waist j still pretty tiny, but my waist,ribs and bust are all pretty wide, so it looks all weird while wearing steel or spiral it does not fold at all and just really sinch in my waist how jt is supposed to
As someone who wears corsets regularly, acrylic (plastic, nylon, etc) is generally more fragile and buckles a lot easier. If you're working with someone who's more curvy, steel may be a better option so they're not being stabbed with broken boning. (I've been there -- most girls have with a busted underwire too.) Just a comment I thought I'd add, steel is more expensive too but I find it more comfortable because it doesn't buckle as easily and cinches my pear-shape into a beautiful hourglass.
Oh my goodness Nick you are a DREAM! I have learned so much from your videos. Getting your book tomorrow from Amazon. Thank you always for your time and informative instructions. Take care. :)
I am a sewer a dress maker, after watching this video I want to be like you a fashion designer... Thank you for sharing it inspired me alot....from Philippines lots of love❣️❣️❣️❣️❣️
Nick thank you and thank goodness I found this channel. I have a new found love with dress making. My mom studied dress making and she teaches me some tricks and tips, though, sometimes she can’t remember most because of old age but with the help of your channel I get to figure them out. A million thanks. Awesome🎉❤
It's first minute of the video, and actually this guys personality made me hit "subscribe" button
Absolutely your personality and delivery 💕❤
I started sewing at my Grandma's knee in the 50's and I think this man is full of light and he's a wonderful teacher.
I just discovered this video and I'll have to watch more, only in part for the sewing tips, but more because he is simply lovely to watch. Nick, you have a wonderful energy and charisma and you could talk about aluminum foil and still be interesting. Kudos and all the best of everything to you!
You are such a happy soul,thanks for teaching us
Thank you very much, Sir, for explaining the finer details of formal gowns. I don't see many other people talking about that sort of thing.
I always smile when I see your videos.
I like your combination of classy blazer+ tie with casual jeans, - and I love your colour choices! Thank you for your great content!
You really know your stuff! I really admire a true craftsman.
I made all my dress with corset :D and its true, it makes u feel secure and foundation of dress looks good on u.
I dont know how I got here, but I love this guy. His passion is infectious
I loved the inside details, I have always enjoyed looking at the steps needed to create couture.
One of my favorite dresses has a built in corset. And made of a beautiful jacquard fabric. I love this video. The hook and eye tip was my fave !
You are just awesome. Very useful explanations. Please upload a fashion gown stitching video. Thank you.
Thank you very very much. Love watching your tutorials. So helpful.
Love the dress ! And I am usually not a purple person. I love this design!
Such an amazing video! I'm going to make my own wedding dress some day so everything I learn from you is incredibly valuable. Please keep going! Love from Germany :)
This guys voice had me grinning the whole video...
He’s truly made my day :,)
I use spiral steel boning and it is very comfortable. Silk organza from moodfabrics isn’t that expensive. Though a whole gowns worth is. I made my wedding dress entirely out of silk besides the zipper, stays, and lace. Making my own was something I’ll always be happy I did. Unfortunately I ran out of time to sew in my own shaping and used my grandmothers crinoline.. I miss dressmaking
Using silk inside of a garment (for the lining, interfacing, underlining, etc.) isn't about it being seen. It's about comfort and breathability. There is no sense in creating a luscious looking gown it it doesn't feel comfortable. That's why you'll see clothes at Dior, Chanel, etc., even off the rack, with synthetic fabrics on the outside, and silk linings. The nicest feeling fabric should be the one closest to the skin. Linings also need to be absorbent. If you cheap out on a polyester lining, you're going to end up with sweat stains on the outside silk fabric.
And if you're talking about Haute Couture, Haute Couture bodices aren't usually lined. They're underlined, so that silk organza is visible to the wearer. Bodice linings are generally for pret a porter garments. It's easier and cheaper to line a garment rather than having to finish all the seam edges on the inside. In cheaper gowns the lining also serves as the foundation. *cough* I almost never like this technique because it makes the dress extremely difficult to alter, and it's less supportive and less secure than a separate foundation sewn into the gown. (Preferably with a second set of closures. You don't want to rely on a dress zipper for anything you're cinched into. Alexander McQueen tends to put a heavy zipper into the foundation, and an invisible zipper into the outer gown. This is more practical than the traditional method of using hooks for the foundation, since not a lot of people have maids to dress them. Hooks are admittedly smoother and less bulky though. If you're making something like a wedding gown, where the woman will have help getting dressed, use hooks.) A separate foundation with an underlined bodies also has the advantage of looking smoother, especially over time, or if the dress is too tight. Nothing looks cheaper than visible lines of boning.
Morgan Glines
Nice comment! Couture construction techniques are fascinating 🙌
Quick question - how do you finish the seam edges on the inside? I'm currently making a gown using organza as interfacing and am trying to decide whether to line or not. Don't want ugly raw seams on the inside and don't have a serger or finisher :(
Seams usually neatly overcast by hand, but they can also be serged occasionally. Depending on how complicated the bodice is, and how thin the outside fabric is, you can also do a Hong Kong finish with bias strips of more organza, or china silk. (If the fabric is very thin, the bindings might make the seam allowances too visible.) Usually Couture gowns have a foundation which covers the seams on the inside, so just overcasting the edges is enough.
Without seeing the design or the fabric, It's kind of hard to say.
If you're making something like a slip dress, or a 1930s style gown, in something with a lot of drape, like charmeuse or silk/rayon velvet, overcasting the seams would be the best choice since it won't interfere with the drape of the fabric.
If you're making anything close fitting, like a strapless gown, I'd definitely add a foundation. Even if you don't need it for shape, it helps support the skirt, and you won't have to worry about bra straps, or finding a bra to go with it. The foundation will cover the seams something like a lining would, but I would still overcast the seams. (If you're short on time, a small zigzag will do.) Cotton tulle is most traditional for a foundation, but it's hard to find and fairly expensive. Charmeuse is nice too. I've used light weight cotton, like batiste, before too. That's inexpensive, and absorbent. Don't use anything marketed as lining fabric for a foundation. Unless you/your client is fairly flat chested (no larger than a B cup) the foundation should be styled like a bustier. (A darted bodice will also work, with center darts to shape between the bust. It should be like a second skin. I usually prefer a bustier.) It shouldn't be styled like a princess lined bodice like the dress in the video. Unless you add a bunch of stays, sew in cups, etc. that's just not supportive enough, and it doesn't provide any real shaping to the body.
If the gown doesn't need a foundation because it has a high neck, isn't terribly fitted, whatever, Hong Kong seams look very nice. (This is also a nice treatment for like the lace overlay on a wedding gown. You can underline and bind the seams in organza.)
Morgan Glines wow, this was super helpful, thank you! I’m basically copying the design of Alfred Sung D659 (dessy.com/dresses/bridesmaid/d659/) in silk dupioni. It’s a nicely fitted princess cut that supports the bust and the thick shoulder straps give it quite a bit of stability but I’m having trouble lining it neatly in the neckline/decollete, especially with those tight corners
@@DandelionPink672 If I were to make that gown I would probably put small squares of fusible (Tricot, or weft knit, depending on what I had on hand in a light weight, and unobtrusive color.) in the corners. I would underline the whole dress (or at least the bodice) and put in a foundation, at least over the bust area. (Not 100% necessary, but it's my preference.) I would finish the neckline and straps with a facing. I would understitch as much of the neck edge facing as I could. I'm guessing about an inch or two from the base of the strap, across the neck, an inch or two from the base of the strap across the lower arm hole, and same for the back. I would attach the facing to the bodice seam allowances on the inside with thread chains. Unless I was making that dress out of a fabric that's not pleasant against the skin, I wouldn't line it. An underlining, with Hong Kong finished seams, or overcast seams would be really nice.
Alternatively, you can also pickstitch all of the edges from the inside instead of the understitching. . That's a more Couture style finish, but it's obviously more work, and takes a bit of skill to do neatly.
Great tips/secrets and what a lovely dress. Its nice to have an idea what to look for when buying a formal/ball gown. Thanks ☺
The boning in corsets was originally made from reeds. Corsets need to support, be flexible and were only uncomfortable if the wearer sinched too tightly.
I started sewing in the 70's when all these "secrets" were standard construction of a garment. LOL.
Start your channel. Please. I would watch it
@Fly by night Did you ever think that possibly he IS gearing his tutorials towards 3rd graders? My daughter thinks he's great. And so do I. Just bc he's speaking to beginners doesn't mean it's beneath him. If you're so professional and great, then why are you slumming it here with us peasants? 😤
@Fly by night there is really no need for you to be here if you're so professional, alot of people are learning something new and he is great
Fly by night - I didn’t know most of these tips so it’s great for those who are laymen. I enjoyed watching.
@cockney gyal It seems like a lost art now, but knowing how to sew was considered such a necessity it was a required class (home economics) in every middle school in America.
You're spot on about fabric availability and quality--it was "real fabric" that held up after many, many, washings; and it was actually cheaper to make your own clothing (and accessories) rather than buy them.
I'm with you--feeling the texture of the fabric before buying it is very important and half the fun. Fortunately, I have a nice stockpile of well-made fabric for when I get the urge to make something better than off the rack.
I usually don't like one shoulder gowns, but this one is nice. Good info...thanks Nick!
Very excited to find this. Please teach us how to do built in corsets and bras!! Please please please xxx
Thanks for the tips. Just starting to design and sew my unique wedding gowns.
Him: "What's boning...?"
Me: "Expensive, that's what."
LOL. Expensive, but worth it.
Absolutely, no question, but I cry a little every time I buy it. :(
I'd just planned on buying upholstery piping, double sided hem tape and 9-foot rolls of dollar ribbon to create essentially the same thing instead. The flat boning is also just the same thickness and type of polymer as kids splat mats and the floor of fabric shopping bags that helps them hold their rectangular shape, zip ties, any number of similar products in home improvement isles and stores. Some of the stiffer types of ribbon, often the heaviest ones for gift wrap, or the skinniest wired ribbon also housed inside a larger one to safely hide the wire could work as well, depending on the fabric and piece its supposed to be giving structure. I tend to DIY my way out of paying for such simple things through the nose when it takes minutes to duplicate them for much less, especially with costumes. I'd rethink some of the cheaper methods if it was intended for a formal.
Actually, I've used long plastic cable ties/zip ties from the dollarstore or somtimes the hardware store on a lot of my projects. It works equally well to substitute nylon bonings. I just cut off the end part and it's a cheaper alternative. Of course, the difference is that the expensive stuff lasts longer and doesn't tend to warp over time. Worth a shot if you can't afford expensive boning.
You are so knowledgeable! And you’ve got such great humor. It’s fun watching you.
Thank you so much for the educational videos. All the haters on here if you think he's doing it wrong where is your videos?
All Education helps everyone...
1. Horsehair Trim (Netting the Hem)
2. Tulle Petticoat (add satin lining over tulle)
3. Built-in corset
4. Boning
5. Interfacing
6. Hand-sewn loop of the "hook & eye" - don't use a metal-loop.
It's fun and joy to learn from you Nick so easy to follow. God bless you. 🙏
You are superb lovely teacher
That dress is wonderfully made. Great job!
Hi Nick...I love you!!!!. I have never seen this information...It's been a long time since sewing class
Thank You
your energy is amazing ! makes me happy !
Tell you one of my secret too... You are teaching better than my teachers...lol.... Xxx
This guy is so extra! Love it! Will never use his pro techniques, but appreciate he's sharing it on a level even beginners can understand. New subby here.
I love all of your tutorials !
That is a basic thing in general indian fashions. That hand_done loop thing. We call it "Gaaj" in hindi. And the tulle you used inside the skirt we call it "can can" for local understanding. 😜
Shriya Pujari XD Same, it is in Bengali fashion too. I never knew a name for it, though. I wish my mom would show me how to sew thread loops. We never get the metal eyes, but just the hooks.
I call it "hook on Ganj" lol
Ash Heaven look on Pinterest it’s not difficult once you understand the concept. The way I do it is once I’ve decided the length of the “eye” I sew that loop with doubled thread 3 times. Then I tie the thread around the loop until the entire length is covered. Kind of like a simple friendship bracelet, or macrame is done.
I love indian dresses! the best!
Me too. I also love the sari. What a beautiful, practical garment; and so comfortable to wear. I have two.
so good thank you for sharing !
Love your energy and you look so happy :) I'll incorporate all your secrets when I'm making my daughter's wedding dress. I've never sewn anything like this so I'm happy to learn tricks and things from you!
You are a brilliant man. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. So kind. :)
Thanks you Nick. I really appreciate this.
Lovely gown, thanks nick, you are amazing
Bless him, he's amazing
1 loved the first interfacing you first showed us. I have not found that kind, yet.
2 For the much larger bust women, then the models, we have to wear the bras still. Once one gets over DD you can't just go with the simple stuff in a dress, unless there is actual underwire sewn in it.
I agree fully. Being a bigger size bust with some sag, it is impossible to wear anything without enough support. Hardly any gowns have enough support by themselves, so it is easier to have a separate bra/corset and opt for gowns that don't reveal them :P
It's just a basic video, not an online course. Bodies these days sadly vary greatly, from size 0 to being lifted through the window with a forklift so it takes a lot of time to cover all of them with tips and tricks.
I ADORE this guy!
Much love from Nigeria
Thanks for revealing the secrets!
Love your energy, Nick. Thanks for posting!
Can't wait to try these tips on my own gowns
No wonder why you are so good at reviewing evening gowns in beauty pageants, especially those in Miss Universe. Can you give us techniques on how to sew column gowns that flow in the back bottom part like the one worn by Ariadna Gutierrez? They will be greatly appreciated. ❤
Wow I would never have know that how you make them look amazing!!
So glad I stumbled across this. What great tips :)
I think you have a lot of misconceptions about boning. The only reason metal would ever hurt is if it’s done wrong. It’s no different than plastic, except it’s stronger and more durable
Also, whalebone wasn’t much different than modern nylon, it was only the process of how it was broken into the individual bones that made it expensive and also for the lower classes, if you couldn’t afford steel or whalebone, you would use rushes, which is like a stiff grass which grows near rivers, or reeds, which is similar to rushes.
Metal should be *more* comfortable than plastic since it's more flexible, and flexes side to side instead of just back to front. Spiral steel is almost always preferable to plastic/nylon boning. There are a few instances where Rigeline is better, but regular boning is never the best choice.
In the early sixteenth century rushes were one of the preferred methods of corset making. Another was cording. I have made a corded corest and found it was comfortable and far cooler to wear in warm temperatures. One word of warning though, cording, unlike rushes, isn't as supportive and for large busted women may need an extra boost from plastic or steel.
I use metal boning when I sew. If I buy something with plastic boning I take it out, because it becomes misshapen over time.
@@Taru_the_Witch Yeah, plastic is for like prom or bridesmaid dresses. It's for when you need a formal dress to wear once, for like $100. LOL.
I like all the useful information you give. I sculpt dolls and sew for them, but now I know how to sew for high end dolls. Thanks
I am so happy I found your channel. Your videos are so helpful and I absolutely love your energy and personality
Love it! Loved you since Project Runway
Absolutely lovely, I will never wear such a beautiful dress
Interesting information! As a biologist, I feel it necessary to clarify. It wasn't whale "bone" it was whale baleen. ;-)
Thank you!!!? This is such a life saver!!
I just came across this. This is educative. Thanks
I am a beginner in swing and your video help me soooooo much . Thank for your dedication an your time . Are you incredible besos da Romania
I really love your videos Nick they are very informative on construction and details :)
Merci pour ces secrets pour une merveilleuse robe de soirée !
You just built up my confidence
Love to watch your videos Nick. ❤ You are the best teacher of fashion world
nick... you explains so transparent and clear..awesome... and secrets were awesome,,,
Thank you for sharing your secrets. God bless 😍
I have been tempting to sew 🧵 a evening gown and I don’t know where to start but here just gave me the basics thanks!
Your gowns are fabulous dear
Where have you been all my life? (Well, you weren't born yet for a bunch of it!) You are improving my sewing and designing incredibly! I spent several years just watching my Aunt sew and picking up things from here. She sewed from Senator's wives inaugural gowns, Governor's wives inaugural gowns, and even did the men's clothing for "A Time to Kill." Now that I've retired, I'm actually putting together costumes for rental and clothing that has been in my head for years. (I even won the grand prize in Fashion Week in our State, faint, shock!) I'm learning so very much from you with the muslin pattern making. I'd LOVE to see some of the twist treatments. Like at the neck (for an older woman that still wants to be chic) and the twist at the center right of the waist. Please consider doing some videos on those techniques. And that you for finding your way into my cyber life!
Thank you, Nick. I enjoy so much your videos specially those little secrets. Thank you....thank you!!!
My mind turned 15 with all this talk about boning. He just ...... enunciated that word so so much.
We was putting plastic stripes in inner corset for proper chest shape with the chest pad.. and we were using double face fusing tape for bottom hememing , no need heming stitches and stuff got stiff also.. these was my secrets and lot of more if you need sir.. these type of fashions even existing long back ago which called italian fashion.
Hi Nick!! I'm a retired singer and song writer. I love designing and sewing my own dresses. PLEASE SHOW ME MORE SECRETS!?!? I'm your new subscriber 😁 YOU'RE FABULOUS!!! Thank you for sharing this video ❤❤❤ (Erika)