Trying do build a similar setup now, it's going on a 1995 deville. the unibody construction is going to cause me to have to fabricate more elaborate bracing but I think it should turn out well
I believe the issue you were having when you switched to the glass cup is that the gas lens in it is meant to be run at a lower argon CFM than a standard cup and collet set up. As I understand it if you don't lower the CFM the argon flow is to heavy and causes turbulence around the weld allowing outside atmosphere to contaminate the weld.
You mentioned welds on this 65 “X” frame. I can only picture a black & white film of these being assembled on a moving line. The jig is in place and the burly 28 year old guys tossing the steel in place, adjusting ever so gently with a “Spud” wrench. Everyone in coveralls with hair cuts high & tight (Just like yours, but by choice) but a hand-held helmet, one handed arc welder and stick desperately trying to find the joint with #14 glass and not auto-darkening. It was truly a different time in life. No hearing protect or eye goggles and some with gloves. I read a post or comment that stated “The rivets allowed for so much movement that no two vehicle truck frames came with a 1/4” (11mm) of square. What? Red hot rivets may have dropped into slightly oversized holes so they would go in, but hammered with pneumatic guns to create that button head we have seen, but as they cool, they have to so tight, it was immense pressures. They were good enough for many ships, battle ships, tanks for liquid and many more like these trucks. The later models like 67/72 had few welds but lasted 55+ years a do not come apart easy. This guy was basically saying these were weaker than bolts. I say BS in American, not sure about Canadian! Thoughts? PS, I have never used a TIG, but a number of guys, simply use 0.035” MIG wire when welding. They run out some feet, cut off and straighten some. I do understand you had some larger gaps or lap weld to fill. This takes much more filler rod and if I am not wrong, even several passes. I am enjoying the build, but I am retired and in pain but go for a 10-15 minute period before I have to sit. I might as well enjoy someone else working!
Very nice. I just bought a brand new Honda Passport for my 60th birthday.. My first new car. Well wants over $300 just for the hitch... Not gonna happen! I'll probably weld one up with 7018 stick but after seeing this I am tempted to use my 200A Tig.
While I have the capability of doing stick, I hate stick; I'm not good at it, and I don't enjoy it. Maintenance Guy for the School District here does everything structural with stick, I do everything structural with TIG. I'm sure either way would work. I am NOT a ticketed welder, I'm largely self-taught (so keep that in mind, eh? (grin)).
@@GregWellwood Yeah there are a lot more nuances with stick, i.e little things you have to take care of but not obvious. Its much easier to do pretty welds with TIG in my opinion in any position.. The different types of rod weld very differently too with different techniques between say a 6011 and a 7018. But the challenge is also partly why I like it..:)
Hopefully you are teaching trades based courses, like welding. This is coming from another "shop teacher" (Auto, Auto Body, Welding). I like how you tied everything together as one structural piece then Tigged it out for appearance and quality. Never used Delfleet but have heard great things about it from my friend who's a painter. One thing I like to do after sand blasting is to sand the metal to get rid of some of the etch with 180-320 grit, this works good. Then epoxy just like you did.
Tohelp with your warpage problems weld a root pass that’s hot enough for penetration but you don’t have to cook it, and do it in opposing sides so that the shrinkage of material fights itself causing it to hold itself generally in place, once you have a good root pass all the way around you can run a hot pass burning that root pass in and adding structure to the top of it, do this in the same order as the root pass so it fights itself from warping. Another way is to do small welds and cooking it with an air gun so that it never gets hot enough to warp. Both are good ways but can be difficult to learn best of luck my friend
Either you were getting low on gas or you needed to turn up the flow. It was blowing away from your weld because you didn't have a closed enough space for it to cover the weld.
Also the welding looked fantastic. Some of the larger cups give me bad “blow back” when welding inside corners. I have to adjust to get less direct reflection.
@@GregWellwood It always confuses me how Bad Obsession Motorsport can have "Only" 400k subscribers, but are somehow also one of the most quoted car build channels on RUclips ? :D Anyway, many moons ago I used to work in a powder coating plant, and we used to be told that powder coating just made things look pretty. It was p*ss poor at actually weatherproofing anything. If you wanted your part to be weatherproof you needed to pay extra for us to chemically dip the metal first (Some kind of phosphate bath) or overcoat it with a clear powder coat lacquer. It seems that back then the basic finish was slightly porous, and would actually allow water to soak in and be held it in contact with the underlying metal longer than if the part had just been wiped over with an oily rag! I don't know if the paint technology's changed since my time though. This was all about 30 years ago, so I'd like to think there's been improvements since then.
The big turner for me, was one of the teachers asked me to fix his roof rack. When I had a look at it, it was mostly powder coat, no metal; the metal had all rusted away to nothing underneath. I decided to stick with good paints.
1/4 inch wall is that for class 4 hitch good for 10 000 lb tow 1000 lb tung weight? i want to build one for 3500 lb and 350 lb tongue weight. Is 3/16 wall tube 2x2 is enough??
@@GregWellwood Yea, I got the comment early in. If I recall a Pro-mig 140 is rated for 1/2" with self shielded. I haven't picked up my gas for tig yet... but everything I've seen it's amazing. Finally stepping up from my Century Mig... I know must guys like the more control with tig, heat and filler metal. Just wondering if that was your reasoning.
I used to do powder coating, and YES you can powder coat welding...i have built MOVE Bumpers, and also my own design bumpers, and never had an issue powder coating welded areas......hmmmmmm
"It'll laugh at you the whole time it doesn't fit." Been there.
The dedication!
Trying do build a similar setup now, it's going on a 1995 deville. the unibody construction is going to cause me to have to fabricate more elaborate bracing but I think it should turn out well
I really like your videos brother I think I have watched all of them keep it up
I believe the issue you were having when you switched to the glass cup is that the gas lens in it is meant to be run at a lower argon CFM than a standard cup and collet set up. As I understand it if you don't lower the CFM the argon flow is to heavy and causes turbulence around the weld allowing outside atmosphere to contaminate the weld.
Nice build! I’m building another one soon.
This time I’m welding some 1.5” tubing where the pin goes so thieves can’t break off the locking pin.
great project
You mentioned welds on this 65 “X” frame. I can only picture a black & white film of these being assembled on a moving line. The jig is in place and the burly 28 year old guys tossing the steel in place, adjusting ever so gently with a “Spud” wrench. Everyone in coveralls with hair cuts high & tight (Just like yours, but by choice) but a hand-held helmet, one handed arc welder and stick desperately trying to find the joint with #14 glass and not auto-darkening. It was truly a different time in life. No hearing protect or eye goggles and some with gloves.
I read a post or comment that stated “The rivets allowed for so much movement that no two vehicle truck frames came with a 1/4” (11mm) of square. What? Red hot rivets may have dropped into slightly oversized holes so they would go in, but hammered with pneumatic guns to create that button head we have seen, but as they cool, they have to so tight, it was immense pressures. They were good enough for many ships, battle ships, tanks for liquid and many more like these trucks. The later models like 67/72 had few welds but lasted 55+ years a do not come apart easy.
This guy was basically saying these were weaker than bolts. I say BS in American, not sure about Canadian!
Thoughts?
PS, I have never used a TIG, but a number of guys, simply use 0.035” MIG wire when welding. They run out some feet, cut off and straighten some. I do understand you had some larger gaps or lap weld to fill. This takes much more filler rod and if I am not wrong, even several passes.
I am enjoying the build, but I am retired and in pain but go for a 10-15 minute period before I have to sit. I might as well enjoy someone else working!
warping -- spot weld all parts first while parts are clamped - all around - reduces warping - before continuous weld - nice job
love the shop vac idea!
Me too! I thought that was genius!
Very nice. I just bought a brand new Honda Passport for my 60th birthday.. My first new car. Well wants over $300 just for the hitch... Not gonna happen! I'll probably weld one up with 7018 stick but after seeing this I am tempted to use my 200A Tig.
While I have the capability of doing stick, I hate stick; I'm not good at it, and I don't enjoy it. Maintenance Guy for the School District here does everything structural with stick, I do everything structural with TIG. I'm sure either way would work. I am NOT a ticketed welder, I'm largely self-taught (so keep that in mind, eh? (grin)).
@@GregWellwood Yeah there are a lot more nuances with stick, i.e little things you have to take care of but not obvious. Its much easier to do pretty welds with TIG in my opinion in any position.. The different types of rod weld very differently too with different techniques between say a 6011 and a 7018. But the challenge is also partly why I like it..:)
Hopefully you are teaching trades based courses, like welding. This is coming from another "shop teacher" (Auto, Auto Body, Welding). I like how you tied everything together as one structural piece then Tigged it out for appearance and quality. Never used Delfleet but have heard great things about it from my friend who's a painter. One thing I like to do after sand blasting is to sand the metal to get rid of some of the etch with 180-320 grit, this works good. Then epoxy just like you did.
Hat's off to you body guys. I'd rather do ten engines. Cheers!
Tohelp with your warpage problems weld a root pass that’s hot enough for penetration but you don’t have to cook it, and do it in opposing sides so that the shrinkage of material fights itself causing it to hold itself generally in place, once you have a good root pass all the way around you can run a hot pass burning that root pass in and adding structure to the top of it, do this in the same order as the root pass so it fights itself from warping. Another way is to do small welds and cooking it with an air gun so that it never gets hot enough to warp. Both are good ways but can be difficult to learn best of luck my friend
Man you crazy Canucks and princess auto
Then there's us Americans with Harbor Freight.
Very nice!
Metal man!!!
Either you were getting low on gas or you needed to turn up the flow. It was blowing away from your weld because you didn't have a closed enough space for it to cover the weld.
Never heard of that much post flow on non stainless steel or exotics.
3 seconds always appeared just fine to me
Also the welding looked fantastic. Some of the larger cups give me bad “blow back” when welding inside corners. I have to adjust to get less direct reflection.
I actually got non alcoholic fatty liver disease from the acetone
What is the excellent guitar music?
Listed in description
5:11 ............ Getting the "funk out" ?
As long as it'll "make the noise."
@@GregWellwood It always confuses me how Bad Obsession Motorsport can have "Only" 400k subscribers, but are somehow also one of the most quoted car build channels on RUclips ? :D
Anyway, many moons ago I used to work in a powder coating plant, and we used to be told that powder coating just made things look pretty. It was p*ss poor at actually weatherproofing anything. If you wanted your part to be weatherproof you needed to pay extra for us to chemically dip the metal first (Some kind of phosphate bath) or overcoat it with a clear powder coat lacquer. It seems that back then the basic finish was slightly porous, and would actually allow water to soak in and be held it in contact with the underlying metal longer than if the part had just been wiped over with an oily rag!
I don't know if the paint technology's changed since my time though. This was all about 30 years ago, so I'd like to think there's been improvements since then.
The big turner for me, was one of the teachers asked me to fix his roof rack. When I had a look at it, it was mostly powder coat, no metal; the metal had all rusted away to nothing underneath. I decided to stick with good paints.
1/4 inch wall is that for class 4 hitch good for 10 000 lb tow 1000 lb tung weight? i want to build one for 3500 lb and 350 lb tongue weight. Is 3/16 wall tube 2x2 is enough??
I'm not an engineer. The truck I built this for is only rated at 6000lb towing capacity. I over-build things like this so that they WON'T fail.
@@GregWellwood my vehicle is rated for 5000 lb max tow, would you recommend 3/8 steel for the chassi extensions
I am wondering why not just mig or stick the entire thing? Why tig?
You totally could. This metal is too much for my 140 MIG, and my TIG can do 200. Plus, I like TIG.
@@GregWellwood Yea, I got the comment early in. If I recall a Pro-mig 140 is rated for 1/2" with self shielded. I haven't picked up my gas for tig yet... but everything I've seen it's amazing. Finally stepping up from my Century Mig... I know must guys like the more control with tig, heat and filler metal. Just wondering if that was your reasoning.
You can tig the roots and cover with stick....tig is just much cleaner
I used to do powder coating, and YES you can powder coat welding...i have built MOVE Bumpers, and also my own design bumpers, and never had an issue powder coating welded areas......hmmmmmm
What I meant was perforating the powder coating to re-weld something.