Thanks for the video! You rescued my hive! Second year beekeeper...found my hive in this exact situation a few weeks ago. Did everything you suggested. Checked my hive every 3 days to continue cutting out uncapped Queen cells. After about 2 weeks they have tamed down their “swarm mode” and I didn’t find any more eggs in the Queen cups today. Hoping for a lot of honey this year. Thanks again! Brianna, from SE Minnesota.
This year may 8 2020 i just checked a hive and found 2 queen cells with larvae about 3/4 complete but not capped, I had a hive that was queen-less so i took the frame with the queen cells to the queenless hive, when i returned 2 minutes later the hive that i removed the queen cells from was swarming , bees everywhere in the air. Luckily they decided to land right next to their hive on the same stand that they came from. I grabbed an empty hive body with old comb and set it right next to them and they immediately started marching in. Easiest and quickest swarm that i have ever caught . i only have 8 hives but I have been bee keeping for 9 years. i only have 1 acre and im in town, i need more land :) Thanks for your videos it seems that i learn something every time that i watch one.
So Kamon, when you have bee bread and pollen in the brood nest like 11:04 is there anything you can do about that other than let the bees work it out over time? I had some frames at the end of last year just packed with bee bread that the girls never did anything with over 2 years. Eventually I tried soaking them and flushing it out with a hose and that kind of worked. I didn't want to scrape the frames but that may have to happen on a few. Thanks.
Lots of good useful information. As a new beekeeper it's difficult to keep up with the fast pace of most beekeepers and how they relay the steps. Maybe a recap at the end of vids with bullet points? Sure would be appreciated. 😊🐝
There is another way to take away the swarming impulse Clare out all the queen cells get u another hive body with drawn comb find the queen put her in put a excluded on setting the original body on top immediately she is released of all congestion as soon as she gets back into lay and the nurses start populating about eight days you do another inspection you keep the foraging force once the flow is good just take out the excluder let the queen rave both boxes to work
Kamon, I had an Ianism with you and this box of bees. (Ianism=frustrationboxkickinghat throwingsnowballing fit) take those frames out of the box find the queen cells cut them off and put 'em back. You can't see far enough up on those frames. Looking from the bottom. You are correct about the waste. The girls will take the jelly, re-chew it and make worker jelly with it. The nurse bees will make a whole frame of worker brood with the amount you had on that box!
I’ve started cutting them out sometimes right off frame with small knife. Putting piece of comb on cut side and dropping them into a roller cage. Works have a great 2022, or best we can.
Hello kamon on trying to keep these bees from swarming you changed out two frames in the top brood box . How much would it help to take the time to pull maybe a frame from the bottom box also ? Or how about if you pulled one from the top and one from bottom instead of doing both in the top box ,? Just wounding if one way is better than the other but I guess it may all depend on how they have build out frames in each box 🤷♂️🤷♂️. Thanks for all your help and informative information.
Do you prefer to add frames of brood and bees to a smaller hive? What if you were to put on another super? We usually do that, however at the end of the season we may have so many tall hives to go into winter, we need to make them smaller. We have already switched to nucs on top of one deep. Weight was an issue for us and our Queens lay just as well if not better in the nucs. Thanks again!
I prefer giving frames and bees to a healthy little hive. However doing it by the box can also work but with deeps many times it is more than what I want to give. We make alot of our splits by the deep box. Yes, queens love laying nucs full of brood and will overwinter very well if the bees are healthy and have plenty of stores.
hello, in this case if cells are capped, I just cut them off, remove a brood frame with the queen on it temporarily to a 2 frame nuc with a frame of honey, then add 2 suppers on top of hive for lots of space, continue checking and cutting cells every 10 days if present, until nectar flow slows down and swarming impulse decreases, then reinstall the 2 frames with the queen. And no need to split the hive. cheers from chile
Kamon ; I have made another split (late summer ) now from the 2 Nuc boxes I now have 5 separate colony's and am getting tons of rain, I bought one Blue sky poly hive and one Lyson Poly hive, Just hoping you might have some advice on how to help keep them dry better or what to use to help with all the humidity we are getting with this Rain?
I have heard that using a queen excluder limits the amount of homey the bees will make and a number of people say not to use a queen excluder at all. What are your thoughts on this? I am very happy to receive any information from anyone and everyone.
I've been using queen excluder in half of my hives and I can tell you you get the same ammount of honey on both hives. I would argue you get even less in the hives without queen excluder AND its a pain in the butt when you have to harvest your honey.
Same thing happened to me they packed the brood space with nectar and pollen. Then Queen disappeared. I had honey super on as well. What could I have done. The hive turned into worker hive and wouldn’t take another queen. What would you have done? Like your videos great job. Thank you. If I’m ever out in Tennessee would love to come see your operation.
Scott u can have them accepting another queen. Get your queen laying with 3 or4frames of younger bees brake down the hive putting a sheet of paper on top of the original body put the nuke with queen being already interduce another sheet of paper on top then whatever else on top of that 5 days or about pulling down the hive again just use a sharp knife to uncapped some of the drone cells and organise the brood chamber nicely
Hi Kamon I like to see your videos I'm new to beekeeping How often should I look into my bee boxes. can I look too much, I have five hives that we traped this year. Thank you
You mentioned the queen needing space. I assume simply adding more boxes above doesn't really solve the swarm situation like splitting the colony does?
It is a response to certain stimulation. Alot of nectar, wax production, inbalances of population to brood and queen pheromones. In short the can swarm any time the right conditions are met. Typically in my area those ideal conditions are between late March and late May. But we can send swarms in fall.
Swarm season sure is here! Can the same hive swarm over a few days? I've one that is packed full, swarmed 2 days ago, and today, another batch took off! Has space in the super, but the brood boxes are loaded. Every frame is covered. A couple frames look to be just honey. Do I just pull a frame or 2, put in empty ones and save the honey for a box that may need it later? I thought if there was room on the supers that they wouldn't swarm. Any insight? Different hive swarmed last week, went to 3 different locations in my yard & settled on a nice low branch, so I got them back home. Maybe I should give this hive some bees from the over full one? You videos are great! Thank you! I'm in the Atlanta area.
Remove capped queen cells and open ones with brood to stop additional swarms. The bees could swarm with every queen that hatches from any of the queen cells. Take 2-3 brood frames with the bees and swap them with the super frames, they will continue to work the brood frames as well as the supers. The brood will emerge and the cells will be filled with syrup/honey.
3 days ago I noticed that my 1 month nuc had left me after checking the nuc....only robber bees where in the nuc , the heck....they took everything except the kitchen sink (capped drones). And I wondered why the queen did not start laying. Edit: Today after opening my queenless hive, for which I ordered a queen that is on its way as we speak, I discovered 2 things. The population of bees increased a lot and that they have a laying queen in a little more than a week or so time period. They have a 1/2 frame covered brood. The reason that I checked the queenless hive was, that the bees brought in a lot of pollen for being queenless and broodless at least I thought. I am pretty sure that, that abscond swarm found a new home with that queenless hive and they combined. Now I have a queen on the way. Question, what should I do with the queen? Is it to late to make a smaller split or a small nuc. All I got is a package that I got 2nd week of May, thought of taking a frame or two from there.
Sue Ellen, I have seen some old timers find a lot of swarm cells on the bottom of a frame, discharge the larvae content, and replace with larvae of their choice. Then they would place that frame in a box where they could take proper care of it. The question you are asking requires knowledge of primed queen cells prior to grafting, wet graft as opposed to a dry graft, natural cells versus man made wax cells, plastic cell cups and grafting system, and of course natural larvae emerge versus cloistered queen. I did not mean to take Kamon's thunder....sorry about that! Carroll
Even though that is a common generalization made, it is not always the case. Verifying that the hive has eggs is always a good idea before you assume it is a swarming colony and remove cells.
Hi great video! We usually can catch queen cells before they are capped, remove them and add a super. If we are splitting our hive or making a nuc, we will take from a strong what they need and accomplish it that way. We are just emerging from our winter here right near Canada, so for us it is imperative that our hives are extremely strong to make it through the winter snow, ice and freezing temperatures. Just a note, I have included your channel in with a few others we really like at the end of our last year's slideshow presentations that are now on our website and also on our youtube videos. If this is not ok just drop us a line! Take care!
Reindeer’s Bees Yes, if they’re not already in full bore swarm mode with capped queen cells. Key is giving queen room to lay. Pulling a couple frames of honey, or nectar-filled brood comb, or a frame of pollen and replacing with drawn comb, will usually do the trick. Replace the pulled frames with drawn comb, not plastic foundation; bees don’t view the plastic as laying room until it gets drawn out, and by then the hive will likely have swarmed. If you have no drawn comb available, better to just go foundationless and hope they draw it out a bit in the next couple of days. The pulled combs can go into another hive, or you can place a queen excluder and a new box above it, put the frames there. Another trick, if lacking drawn comb, is you can pull frames of nectar and set them out away from the hive. Your other colonies, or another beekeepers colonies, or ferals will likely rob it out within 2-3 hours and you can then re-insert it in the brood nest. This year I had more trouble with hives being pollen bound than honey bound.
??? You put a frames of brood WITH nursebees in a "strange" hive ??? Don't they get killed ? Or is that only for the queen ?? In my hive every "strange" bee gets attacked right away !! Please explain. Btw. Great video's with 'normal' language. (Y) (Y)
I shake nurse bees into other colonies constantly. It works even better if you run them thru the entrance. Nurse bees will always be accepted. Older bees will most times be killed. It is reccomended that you shake the nurse bees at the entrance so they have to walk in but I often just shake them into a colony. Frames of young larvae and pollen frames are typically your best frames to shake from. Both of those hives are still looking great 3 months later. Hope this helps.
or you make take the queen out, cut all cells but leave 2, and let them hatch. Prior to this add a couple of supers for space, and let the new queen mate. she will start laying in a bigger hive with lots of space , and as she is a young queen she will not swarm,
You're a good beek.....you left out a couple of frames on the left colony before you closed it up......This was back in April, so either you corrected it right away off camera or found it later with a mess...I have done it more than once. I call it videography distraction!
Those are queen cups not cells...if a colony is actually filling out cells it's too late and even cutting cells out won't stop the swarm impulse but infact cutting drawn and filled out cells will leave a swarming colony in trouble without a way to make new queens...
They are drawing them into cells and they are filled with royal jelly and larvae. 2-3 days later some would have been capped. I still have the original queen so I don't need them to raise another. Doing what I did in the video slows the impulse down not due to a lack of cells but due to pulling bees and brood, giving them frames to draw on and shortly after adding honey supers. It works great. Sure they might try to make more cells the next week but we will be ready to deal with that. After a while they will stop and focus on a large honey crop. If I want queens to split I already raise them and sell them from the breeder queens
If you make new nuke from queen cups naturally you decided increase swarm gens in your beeyards. And not sure well feeding and using quality eggs. When main honey flow starting we take 2 frame full nurse bee and eggs to start artificial swarm. If you take artificial swarm consumer bees 10k-15 bees not using honey. Take Second artificial swarm..total 30.000 bees. But you must feed swarm sugar candy. When young bees going same hive yard old bees turn own hives. %50 percent collect more honey because no consumer bees old hive.
you seem like you know a lot about your bees half of these freaking quack jobs out here don't know nothing man they just be getting bees and be slamming down the cages and stuff on them and I think it's bug bro like they be dropping Queens on the ground and talk about some fuck it I'm like wow really pardon my French but that's how they be talkin I'm like what that's that is crazy
Best way to prevent swarming is to put quin, seeled brood empti brood frames and some fondant beelow exkluder and open brood in uper box. No problem with swarming
A strong colony will try multiple times. They need plenty of room for the queen to lay and plenty of space to store nectar. Dividing bees does help but it can take multiple times cutting the pre capped cells before they stop even if they have the space.
@@kamonreynolds the biggest problem is not enough drawn comb for her to lay into. So from there it gets back filled with nectar or pollen before she lays again. I just keep checking and will keep splitting or destroying queen cells.
Do you have a patreon? I will sign up to support you, just feel bad I know it gets annoying all the messages you get, but you should allow people to sign up and pledge to support so much $ a month and you could give advise, I and a lot of other beginners I know would absolutely pay for that.
Thanks for the video! You rescued my hive! Second year beekeeper...found my hive in this exact situation a few weeks ago. Did everything you suggested. Checked my hive every 3 days to continue cutting out uncapped Queen cells. After about 2 weeks they have tamed down their “swarm mode” and I didn’t find any more eggs in the Queen cups today. Hoping for a lot of honey this year.
Thanks again!
Brianna, from SE Minnesota.
You're quickly becoming my favorite RUclipsr! Love how you explain everything!
Appreciate it!
@@kamonreynolds sugar honey sucks
This year may 8 2020 i just checked a hive and found 2 queen cells with larvae about 3/4 complete but not capped, I had a hive that was queen-less so i took the frame with the queen cells to the queenless hive, when i returned 2 minutes later the hive that i removed the queen cells from was swarming , bees everywhere in the air. Luckily they decided to land right next to their hive on the same stand that they came from. I grabbed an empty hive body with old comb and set it right next to them and they immediately started marching in. Easiest and quickest swarm that i have ever caught . i only have 8 hives but I have been bee keeping for 9 years. i only have 1 acre and im in town, i need more land :) Thanks for your videos it seems that i learn something every time that i watch one.
Finally a swarm prevention video I can really understand. Thank you
Thank you so much, perfect timing,vidio. Springfield,mo. 4/26/24.
I'm new at beekeeping and I really appreciate your videos.
Great video thank you.
Favorite channel now! Great explanations on what you’re doing. please keep the videos coming
Aw shucks Steve! Thanks for watching. Yessir, we will keep rolling out the videos to help folks enjoy their bees, and save money.
Thanks for walking us through the steps and letting us see it step by step!
Your welcome!
Very good explanation of what your doing and why. Thanks buddy!
Excellent information! Thanks Kamon.
Thank you...awesome video. Lots of great info for us newbees
So Kamon, when you have bee bread and pollen in the brood nest like 11:04 is there anything you can do about that other than let the bees work it out over time? I had some frames at the end of last year just packed with bee bread that the girls never did anything with over 2 years. Eventually I tried soaking them and flushing it out with a hose and that kind of worked. I didn't want to scrape the frames but that may have to happen on a few. Thanks.
Lots of good useful information.
As a new beekeeper it's difficult to keep up with the fast pace of most beekeepers and how they relay the steps.
Maybe a recap at the end of vids with bullet points?
Sure would be appreciated. 😊🐝
There is another way to take away the swarming impulse Clare out all the queen cells get u another hive body with drawn comb find the queen put her in put a excluded on setting the original body on top immediately she is released of all congestion as soon as she gets back into lay and the nurses start populating about eight days you do another inspection you keep the foraging force once the flow is good just take out the excluder let the queen rave both boxes to work
Have both hive body
Kamon, I had an Ianism with you and this box of bees. (Ianism=frustrationboxkickinghat throwingsnowballing fit) take those frames out of the box find the queen cells cut them off and put 'em back. You can't see far enough up on those frames. Looking from the bottom. You are correct about the waste. The girls will take the jelly, re-chew it and make worker jelly with it. The nurse bees will make a whole frame of worker brood with the amount you had on that box!
Great video.
I’ve started cutting them out sometimes right off frame with small knife. Putting piece of comb on cut side and dropping them into a roller cage. Works have a great 2022, or best we can.
Hello kamon on trying to keep these bees from swarming you changed out two frames in the top brood box . How much would it help to take the time to pull maybe a frame from the bottom box also ? Or how about if you pulled one from the top and one from bottom instead of doing both in the top box ,? Just wounding if one way is better than the other but I guess it may all depend on how they have build out frames in each box 🤷♂️🤷♂️. Thanks for all your help and informative information.
The flow is coming on quick here in east Tennessee cherrys, black cherrys ,red buds ,phacelias. Alot of other stuff to in mountains.
Well have you ever tryed placing a drawed out frame on top of a box for rasing queens . Rob.
Great vid Bro, as always.
Txs Kamon for the energy in your videos and advise. Have you ever tried the snelgrove board to swarm control?
Do you prefer to add frames of brood and bees to a smaller hive? What if you were to put on another super? We usually do that, however at the end of the season we may have so many tall hives to go into winter, we need to make them smaller. We have already switched to nucs on top of one deep. Weight was an issue for us and our Queens lay just as well if not better in the nucs. Thanks again!
I prefer giving frames and bees to a healthy little hive. However doing it by the box can also work but with deeps many times it is more than what I want to give. We make alot of our splits by the deep box. Yes, queens love laying nucs full of brood and will overwinter very well if the bees are healthy and have plenty of stores.
@@kamonreynolds Thank you very much!
Why don't you use queen excluder? Isn't it a problem when you harvest?
What part of Tennessee? I live in Hendersonville
hello, in this case if cells are capped, I just cut them off, remove a brood frame with the queen on it temporarily to a 2 frame nuc with a frame of honey, then add 2 suppers on top of hive for lots of space, continue checking and cutting cells every 10 days if present, until nectar flow slows down and swarming impulse decreases, then
reinstall the 2 frames with the queen. And no need to split the hive.
cheers from chile
Kamon ; I have made another split (late summer ) now from the 2 Nuc boxes I now have 5 separate colony's and am getting tons of rain, I bought one Blue sky poly hive and one Lyson Poly hive, Just hoping you might have some advice on how to help keep them dry better or what to use to help with all the humidity we are getting with this Rain?
I have heard that using a queen excluder limits the amount of homey the bees will make and a number of people say not to use a queen excluder at all. What are your thoughts on this? I am very happy to receive any information from anyone and everyone.
I've been using queen excluder in half of my hives and I can tell you you get the same ammount of honey on both hives. I would argue you get even less in the hives without queen excluder AND its a pain in the butt when you have to harvest your honey.
Same thing happened to me they packed the brood space with nectar and pollen. Then Queen disappeared. I had honey super on as well. What could I have done. The hive turned into worker hive and wouldn’t take another queen. What would you have done? Like your videos great job. Thank you. If I’m ever out in Tennessee would love to come see your operation.
Scott u can have them accepting another queen. Get your queen laying with 3 or4frames of younger bees brake down the hive putting a sheet of paper on top of the original body put the nuke with queen being already interduce another sheet of paper on top then whatever else on top of that 5 days or about pulling down the hive again just use a sharp knife to uncapped some of the drone cells and organise the brood chamber nicely
Hi Kamon I like to see your videos I'm new to beekeeping How often should I look into my bee boxes. can I look too much, I have five hives that we traped this year. Thank you
Would you be willing to let someone come up and check out a hive or two and figure out if they want to start keeping private bees?
Truly enjoying your vids mate. 😎
They keep getting better and better.
Thanks Mark!
@@kamonreynolds what are the top 5 things new beekeepers need to do to be successful? I have 4 hives right now first year. I am in northwest Indiana
where did you get that veil? Haven't seen it before and looks easy to get on and off. Thanks for your videos.
What do think of the long langstroth ? Irvince Reynolds, Jamaica
I don't have any experience with them but I know folks that do very well with them. I think they are great
For Jamaica I bet they're awesome. Northern illinois? Not so much..
To stop a swarm split the hive. Bees do 2 things store honey or multiply so crawls the bees to increase bees to make queens
You mentioned the queen needing space. I assume simply adding more boxes above doesn't really solve the swarm situation like splitting the colony does?
Bee line ahhhh your killing it lol. Great vid
I would like to try to catch wild swarms or any swarm any suggestions??
I have some videos earlier in 2019 that cover swarm trapping and I am going to be touching on that in more depth in January.
Do you ever move one whole box with the queen and leave one swarm cell to hatch out And re Queen the original hive?
you could do that. If you wanted to increase. I like to get my honey crop and then split but what you described works
Tennessee's Bees thanks for responding
Are there times of the year when they will not swarm? Or do they just swarm whenever they want?
It is a response to certain stimulation. Alot of nectar, wax production, inbalances of population to brood and queen pheromones. In short the can swarm any time the right conditions are met. Typically in my area those ideal conditions are between late March and late May. But we can send swarms in fall.
Swarm season sure is here! Can the same hive swarm over a few days? I've one that is packed full, swarmed 2 days ago, and today, another batch took off! Has space in the super, but the brood boxes are loaded. Every frame is covered. A couple frames look to be just honey. Do I just pull a frame or 2, put in empty ones and save the honey for a box that may need it later? I thought if there was room on the supers that they wouldn't swarm. Any insight?
Different hive swarmed last week, went to 3 different locations in my yard & settled on a nice low branch, so I got them back home. Maybe I should give this hive some bees from the over full one?
You videos are great! Thank you! I'm in the Atlanta area.
Remove capped queen cells and open ones with brood to stop additional swarms.
The bees could swarm with every queen that hatches from any of the queen cells.
Take 2-3 brood frames with the bees and swap them with the super frames, they will continue to work the brood frames as well as the supers. The brood will emerge and the cells will be filled with syrup/honey.
3 days ago I noticed that my 1 month nuc had left me after checking the nuc....only robber bees where in the nuc , the heck....they took everything except the kitchen sink (capped drones). And I wondered why the queen did not start laying.
Edit:
Today after opening my queenless hive, for which I ordered a queen that is on its way as we speak, I discovered 2 things. The population of bees increased a lot and that they have a laying queen in a little more than a week or so time period. They have a 1/2 frame covered brood.
The reason that I checked the queenless hive was, that the bees brought in a lot of pollen for being queenless and broodless at least I thought.
I am pretty sure that, that abscond swarm found a new home with that queenless hive and they combined.
Now I have a queen on the way.
Question, what should I do with the queen?
Is it to late to make a smaller split or a small nuc.
All I got is a package that I got 2nd week of May, thought of taking a frame or two from there.
Wow, those bees are so gentle. Are those Sasketraz bees??? Have you ever had them Kamon
They are my queens and bees. Mostly carnie these days but some Italian in there. I have tried a couple of saskatraz and they were ok.
Can you graft into a queen cup that has royal jelly? Great vid. As usual.
Sue Ellen, I have seen some old timers find a lot of swarm cells on the bottom of a frame, discharge the larvae content, and replace with larvae of their choice. Then they would place that frame in a box where they could take proper care of it. The question you are asking requires knowledge of primed queen cells prior to grafting, wet graft as opposed to a dry graft, natural cells versus man made wax cells, plastic cell cups and grafting system, and of course natural larvae emerge versus cloistered queen. I did not mean to take Kamon's thunder....sorry about that!
Carroll
Swarm cells are placed along the bottom and supercedure cells are placed in the center of the frame.
Even though that is a common generalization made, it is not always the case. Verifying that the hive has eggs is always a good idea before you assume it is a swarming colony and remove cells.
private bubba yes lol. I call the swarm cells 🤬.
Yeah sometimes that's true, sometimes not, sadly the bees haven't read any beekeeping books so they mostly do what they like. :)
@@KujoPainting l
What do you guys use for smoker fuel? I have a hard time keeping mine going.
Pine needles, grass clipping, hay,
Hi great video! We usually can catch queen cells before they are capped, remove them and add a super. If we are splitting our hive or making a nuc, we will take from a strong what they need and accomplish it that way. We are just emerging from our winter here right near Canada, so for us it is imperative that our hives are extremely strong to make it through the winter snow, ice and freezing temperatures. Just a note, I have included your channel in with a few others we really like at the end of our last year's slideshow presentations that are now on our website and also on our youtube videos. If this is not ok just drop us a line! Take care!
That is perfectly fine!
Thank you very much and we hope you all have a great honey season!
Kamon this is urgent! Does method still work if the hive is swarming because they are honey bound not just congested? Thanks
Reindeer’s Bees Yes, if they’re not already in full bore swarm mode with capped queen cells. Key is giving queen room to lay. Pulling a couple frames of honey, or nectar-filled brood comb, or a frame of pollen and replacing with drawn comb, will usually do the trick. Replace the pulled frames with drawn comb, not plastic foundation; bees don’t view the plastic as laying room until it gets drawn out, and by then the hive will likely have swarmed. If you have no drawn comb available, better to just go foundationless and hope they draw it out a bit in the next couple of days. The pulled combs can go into another hive, or you can place a queen excluder and a new box above it, put the frames there. Another trick, if lacking drawn comb, is you can pull frames of nectar and set them out away from the hive. Your other colonies, or another beekeepers colonies, or ferals will likely rob it out within 2-3 hours and you can then re-insert it in the brood nest. This year I had more trouble with hives being pollen bound than honey bound.
I have an opening at my comedy zone 'til 11 in case your "bee ready". :-)
Just painted my queen and when i put her back in they were all over her is this normal ?
I notice you reverse frames 180 degrees when you put them back in. Is there a reason for this or is it unintentional?
Hi from Greece.
Hi from middle Tennessee! Thanks for watching!
Looks good in there.
??? You put a frames of brood WITH nursebees in a "strange" hive ???
Don't they get killed ?
Or is that only for the queen ??
In my hive every "strange" bee gets attacked right away !!
Please explain.
Btw. Great video's with 'normal' language. (Y) (Y)
I shake nurse bees into other colonies constantly. It works even better if you run them thru the entrance. Nurse bees will always be accepted. Older bees will most times be killed. It is reccomended that you shake the nurse bees at the entrance so they have to walk in but I often just shake them into a colony. Frames of young larvae and pollen frames are typically your best frames to shake from. Both of those hives are still looking great 3 months later. Hope this helps.
Key in pocket. I like that
Procrastination is great especially if you are a student.
how are your bees so tame, mine would be ripping me to bits if held it open like this
We selectively breed for gentle behavior
or you make take the queen out, cut all cells but leave 2, and let them hatch. Prior to this add a couple of supers for space, and let the new queen mate. she will start laying in a bigger hive with lots of space , and as she is a young queen she will not swarm,
holy cow, I didn't know 1 double deep could make 100lbs ....
A single deep can too.
You're a good beek.....you left out a couple of frames on the left colony before you closed it up......This was back in April, so either you corrected it right away off camera or found it later with a mess...I have done it more than once. I call it videography distraction!
Those are queen cups not cells...if a colony is actually filling out cells it's too late and even cutting cells out won't stop the swarm impulse but infact cutting drawn and filled out cells will leave a swarming colony in trouble without a way to make new queens...
They are drawing them into cells and they are filled with royal jelly and larvae. 2-3 days later some would have been capped. I still have the original queen so I don't need them to raise another. Doing what I did in the video slows the impulse down not due to a lack of cells but due to pulling bees and brood, giving them frames to draw on and shortly after adding honey supers. It works great. Sure they might try to make more cells the next week but we will be ready to deal with that. After a while they will stop and focus on a large honey crop. If I want queens to split I already raise them and sell them from the breeder queens
2:27 those fingers! they are short
If you make new nuke from queen cups naturally you decided increase swarm gens in your beeyards. And not sure well feeding and using quality eggs. When main honey flow starting we take 2 frame full nurse bee and eggs to start artificial swarm. If you take artificial swarm consumer bees 10k-15 bees not using honey. Take Second artificial swarm..total 30.000 bees. But you must feed swarm sugar candy. When young bees going same hive yard old bees turn own hives. %50 percent collect more honey because no consumer bees old hive.
Leave cells in there? That hive will cast swarms.
you seem like you know a lot about your bees half of these freaking quack jobs out here don't know nothing man they just be getting bees and be slamming down the cages and stuff on them and I think it's bug bro like they be dropping Queens on the ground and talk about some fuck it I'm like wow really pardon my French but that's how they be talkin I'm like what that's that is crazy
I’m 80 but I have 8 frames and there heavey
Best way to prevent swarming is to put quin, seeled brood empti brood frames and some fondant beelow exkluder and open brood in uper box. No problem with swarming
THE JOKES ARE ALWAYS BETTER WHEN YOU KNOW YOU ARE GANNA PAY FOR THEM.
i have this very thing happening now. Split some off and they are still trying to swarm!!
A strong colony will try multiple times. They need plenty of room for the queen to lay and plenty of space to store nectar. Dividing bees does help but it can take multiple times cutting the pre capped cells before they stop even if they have the space.
@@kamonreynolds the biggest problem is not enough drawn comb for her to lay into. So from there it gets back filled with nectar or pollen before she lays again. I just keep checking and will keep splitting or destroying queen cells.
I totally understand! We are still needing alot more combs than what we have and that makes swarm season difficult
Great video! Like the info! Keep it up check out my beginners video sometime
Do you have a patreon? I will sign up to support you, just feel bad I know it gets annoying all the messages you get, but you should allow people to sign up and pledge to support so much $ a month and you could give advise, I and a lot of other beginners I know would absolutely pay for that.