UPDATE: You can change the filament pre-heating temperature and choose from pre-loaded filament temperatures as well. Here's a video showing that process: ruclips.net/video/gXvUqP6QbzA/видео.html
Awesome guide! Just used that to switch from white to black PLA - using the colour change mid-print to do a two colour bookmark. And then I can print some things in black.
Wow - thank you for sharing this video - just saw a feature I love: the klipper 'home' macro drops the bed to the bottom. On my SV07+, 'home' will bring the nozzle almost in contact with the plate, meaning there better not be a model still in place. The 5M obviates that entire issue by dropping the bed.
Thank you for this video, I will receive the machine this week I hope, do you think that the 5M has a print quality as good as the bambu lab A1? Thank you
Don’t know if Bambi Lab print quality is better, but I’m blown away at AD5M’s speed and quality. For less than $300 it is incredible! At this price you can buy 2 for the price of a Bambi Lab machine.
@@darkskys163 the question is if AD5 stable. I have AD4 and it's a nightmare. You indeed can print something that doesn't take longer than 3-4 hours. Otherwise it's a lottery with a probability of winning = 30%. Neither you can confidently print multiple objects. You print 1 and it's ok, you print 2 and it's ok, you print 3, then 4. Then you print 4 again and it's starts to shift the layer at the specific point and you can do nothing about it: rebooting, downgrading the software - nothing helps. All you can do is return to print 1 object at a time. Maybe after some time it will allow you to print multiple objects again for some period, and then you're going to have the layer shifts again. And I'm not talking about the sequential mode.
@@antonkukoba3378 Well I cannot say anything about the AD4, but I still have the AD3 and it’s been a struggle with it. Compared to AD3 the AD5 is light speeds better. If memory serves me, I spent at least $50 to $100 more than the AD5. Time will tell if the AD5 will last.
@@darkskys163AD5 is out for 4 months, the information about the stability must be already available. But people are just posting the unboxing and benchy printing videos. :( So it's still unclear if I should buy AD5 or keep my money for Bambu X1
As silly as this filament change looks, it's simpler than the Creality K1. At least there is no pneumatic coupler and a snap ring to remove everytime. The purge is about the same amount and if we had full access to Klipper, this could be adjusted or at least write a proper purge macro. I did see on Printables there is a print head filament cutter someone designed to where you no longer need to remove the PTFE tube. Wish Flashforge would have done that from the factory. Maybe in updated models we'll see this. Thanks for sharing this informative video!
Is there not a unload option in the touch screen menu? I feel like taking the Bowden tube out constantly just to change filament will wear down the couplers and their ability to grip the tube?
The print head itself doesn’t have a connector, it’s just a friction fit since it’s a direct drive extruder. It doesn’t need a pneumatic connector on both sides of the tube the way a generic Bowden style extruder does
how do you swap between the different materials? Seems like there's no way to control the preheating temperature. So how would you change from ABS which can be printed at 260 degrees to TPU which is printed at 220 degrees. Do you just try to load TPU while the nozzle is 260 degrees after extraction of ABS?
The filament load/swap menu does have different filament options with different temperatures. You can customize the temperature also. I made a short unlisted video to show that: ruclips.net/video/gXvUqP6QbzA/видео.html
Holy crap. I got my AD5M today and went through all the initial steps and apparently they have updated that purge code. Mine was a TINY bit excessive, but nothing crazy. This one went through like half a spool lmao. Might try updating your firmware?
I think the "swap filament" loads for a longer period of time. I only use the "load filament" function. When the old filament is pushed out you wait just a little bit and then you put the new filament in, during the same load process. Then you don't waste more than needed. I haven't found any difference between load and swap, except the time it extrudes.
Is it possible to pause a print in process and then change the filament out and have it resume? The original filament is almost out before the print is complete.
If you have a little bit of filament sticking out of the nozzle, you can cut off as much as you can. Then run the filament loading process again, and push some new filament into the hole on the top of the printhead. The new filament should push the old filament out. If your filament is clogged in the nozzle, heat it up to at least 200 celcius and use the metal declogging tool that came with the printer to push the clogged filament out. Just make sure you don't use the filament loading option when you use this tool or it'll get sucked into the machine.
When the printer comes back on after a power failure, it'll immediately get ask if you want to resume the print. You can manually pause the print at any time and press the play button to resume.
I'm a new subscriber I just found your channel. I'm about to order this Flashforge Adventurer 5M 3D printer. Can you recommend a brand PLA filament for me to get started with? I was looking for a 2 pack to get started. Looking on Amazon I see Flashforge and Creality have 2 packs do you recommend either of these or another brand to start with? This is my first 3D printer.
Absolutely a deal breaker for me in buying this. What an enormous amount of wear and tear on the ptfe tube. You should be able to heat up the extruder, and pull the filament back without removing the ptfe tube.
I also suspect it purges more filament than necessary, but I guess its better to waste a little more than be dissatisfied with your print being discoloured. Also I've checked - the bundle after the purge weighs between 0.49 to 0.75 g. Aint so bad, but hopefully future patches will optimize it.
I'm not sure exactly, but it does purge more than it should. I recommend waiting about 5 seconds after the purge starts before inserting the new filament.
Him: You see the elevated platform? Me: Procceds to elevate platform immediately Him: Your gonna want it to be completely at the bottom Me: Internally screams
Hello- We just bought this printer and during the first print it stopped midway. Filament stopped coming out when printing. After watching this video I wanted to try a different filament and I see it is not extruding the first filament. What should I do?
shit.....what i do is stick a piece of filament in the the useless run out sensor, heat up the nozzle and yank it out. Then just push new stuff. It takes 50 seconds for it to stop wasting your filament. 10 seconds or just seeing it come out the nozzle from pushing it is all you need. Hang your spool from above like on a wall and give that foot long bowden tube the finger. Thats one of the reasons you get a D.D. so you dont have to run your Fil. through that tube anymore. And y is the firmware so locked down?......i cant even adjust the layer height during a print
UPDATE: You can change the filament pre-heating temperature and choose from pre-loaded filament temperatures as well. Here's a video showing that process: ruclips.net/video/gXvUqP6QbzA/видео.html
Thank you, this video was super helpful last night for my first filament change!
You made our day 😎 Father and Son.
Exactly what I was looking for. Great quick tutorial.
Thank you for such an easy process!
Way faster and easier than my Ender 5.
this is progress :)
Yet less convenient than Adventurer 4.
Super clear and easy. Thank you!
Thank you, sir, for the help with swapping filaments. This video was VERY helpful.
Very informative and clear
My friend, this is an amazing video!
Thank you from 🇵🇹!
Awesome guide! Just used that to switch from white to black PLA - using the colour change mid-print to do a two colour bookmark. And then I can print some things in black.
Straight to the point and helpful tysm
Thank you for this video!
You are the man. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Great video thanks man
Wow - thank you for sharing this video - just saw a feature I love: the klipper 'home' macro drops the bed to the bottom. On my SV07+, 'home' will bring the nozzle almost in contact with the plate, meaning there better not be a model still in place. The 5M obviates that entire issue by dropping the bed.
great video mate, appreciate you!
You just saved my day! Perfect!
perfect! just did my first exchange! Thank you, you made this easy.
Worked perfect
Great video
Excellent video, thank you!!
Thank you!!! I’m new to 3d printing and I really don’t wanna keep using the sparkly blue it came with for my next project
Thank you very much! That was useful. :)
Pretty slick. Havent unboxed mine yet. Wanna use two colors to make one of those cool big nba necklaces I see at the games
Very helpful, thank you!
Great video.
Thanks for your video
excellent! thank you
Thank you very much!
Thank you for this tutorial! Do I need to heat up my printer before pulling out the tube and snipping the original filament?
No, you only need to heat it up if you want to push the old filament out, or add new filament.
Very helpful
Thank you!!! ❤
Thank you for this video, I will receive the machine this week I hope, do you think that the 5M has a print quality as good as the bambu lab A1? Thank you
Don’t know if Bambi Lab print quality is better, but I’m blown away at AD5M’s speed and quality. For less than $300 it is incredible! At this price you can buy 2 for the price of a Bambi Lab machine.
@@darkskys163 the question is if AD5 stable. I have AD4 and it's a nightmare. You indeed can print something that doesn't take longer than 3-4 hours. Otherwise it's a lottery with a probability of winning = 30%. Neither you can confidently print multiple objects. You print 1 and it's ok, you print 2 and it's ok, you print 3, then 4. Then you print 4 again and it's starts to shift the layer at the specific point and you can do nothing about it: rebooting, downgrading the software - nothing helps. All you can do is return to print 1 object at a time. Maybe after some time it will allow you to print multiple objects again for some period, and then you're going to have the layer shifts again. And I'm not talking about the sequential mode.
@@antonkukoba3378 Well I cannot say anything about the AD4, but I still have the AD3 and it’s been a struggle with it. Compared to AD3 the AD5 is light speeds better. If memory serves me, I spent at least $50 to $100 more than the AD5. Time will tell if the AD5 will last.
@@darkskys163AD5 is out for 4 months, the information about the stability must be already available. But people are just posting the unboxing and benchy printing videos. :(
So it's still unclear if I should buy AD5 or keep my money for Bambu X1
Where did you get the color frame at or did you do that?
I've tried this. It does not work. No extrusion happens and the piece of old filament is still in the feeder. how do I fix now?
As silly as this filament change looks, it's simpler than the Creality K1. At least there is no pneumatic coupler and a snap ring to remove everytime. The purge is about the same amount and if we had full access to Klipper, this could be adjusted or at least write a proper purge macro. I did see on Printables there is a print head filament cutter someone designed to where you no longer need to remove the PTFE tube. Wish Flashforge would have done that from the factory. Maybe in updated models we'll see this. Thanks for sharing this informative video!
Is there not a unload option in the touch screen menu? I feel like taking the Bowden tube out constantly just to change filament will wear down the couplers and their ability to grip the tube?
You have to remove the tube and cut the filament when you want to unload it. I suppose time will tell if it becomes an issue.
The print head itself doesn’t have a connector, it’s just a friction fit since it’s a direct drive extruder. It doesn’t need a pneumatic connector on both sides of the tube the way a generic Bowden style extruder does
@@silentrice7399 I see now that I have one not a huge fan of the waste amount and not being able to control how long to purge. Thanks!
massive chad Jeremy!!
😎
Спасибо друг, я вокруг принтера крутился как лиса вокруг кувшина, искал рычаг на голове, пока не посмотрел твоё видео.
how do you swap between the different materials? Seems like there's no way to control the preheating temperature. So how would you change from ABS which can be printed at 260 degrees to TPU which is printed at 220 degrees. Do you just try to load TPU while the nozzle is 260 degrees after extraction of ABS?
The filament load/swap menu does have different filament options with different temperatures. You can customize the temperature also. I made a short unlisted video to show that: ruclips.net/video/gXvUqP6QbzA/видео.html
Holy crap. I got my AD5M today and went through all the initial steps and apparently they have updated that purge code. Mine was a TINY bit excessive, but nothing crazy. This one went through like half a spool lmao. Might try updating your firmware?
I'm on the latest firmware.
I think the "swap filament" loads for a longer period of time. I only use the "load filament" function. When the old filament is pushed out you wait just a little bit and then you put the new filament in, during the same load process. Then you don't waste more than needed. I haven't found any difference between load and swap, except the time it extrudes.
doesn't the extruder have a reverse function?
Nope.
Is it possible to pause a print in process and then change the filament out and have it resume? The original filament is almost out before the print is complete.
Yes, you can do that.
Thank you! It worked perfectly.
What do u do if the gears are not grabbing the new filament?
Thats the same problem I have
how do you change the filament during the printing process when you suddenly run out of the filament?
The print will pause and you can go through the same process as swapping the filament.
What do i do if the printer won’t feed the little bit of filling into the nozzle
If you have a little bit of filament sticking out of the nozzle, you can cut off as much as you can. Then run the filament loading process again, and push some new filament into the hole on the top of the printhead. The new filament should push the old filament out.
If your filament is clogged in the nozzle, heat it up to at least 200 celcius and use the metal declogging tool that came with the printer to push the clogged filament out. Just make sure you don't use the filament loading option when you use this tool or it'll get sucked into the machine.
Hello. Is it possible to print with one filament, and then pause, change the filament to a different color and then continue printing?
Yes, it is. In fact, I'm making a video about that right now.
@@FigureFeedback Many thanks, that would be informative. I’m also very interested in how to continue printing after a pause or power failure ))
When the printer comes back on after a power failure, it'll immediately get ask if you want to resume the print. You can manually pause the print at any time and press the play button to resume.
I'm a new subscriber I just found your channel. I'm about to order this Flashforge Adventurer 5M 3D printer. Can you recommend a brand PLA filament for me to get started with? I was looking for a 2 pack to get started. Looking on Amazon I see Flashforge and Creality have 2 packs do you recommend either of these or another brand to start with? This is my first 3D printer.
I haven't tried those two brands. I recommend Elegoo's Rapid PLA+ or eSun PLA. eSun can be pretty cheap when it's on sale.
@@FigureFeedback thanks. I ordered 2 Elegoo's Rapid PLA.
Absolutely a deal breaker for me in buying this. What an enormous amount of wear and tear on the ptfe tube. You should be able to heat up the extruder, and pull the filament back without removing the ptfe tube.
It's doesn't change filament from pla to petg ect it just stays on pla. Any suggestions
I also suspect it purges more filament than necessary, but I guess its better to waste a little more than be dissatisfied with your print being discoloured. Also I've checked - the bundle after the purge weighs between 0.49 to 0.75 g. Aint so bad, but hopefully future patches will optimize it.
How many g of filament does it waste when you purge?
I'm not sure exactly, but it does purge more than it should. I recommend waiting about 5 seconds after the purge starts before inserting the new filament.
Him: You see the elevated platform?
Me: Procceds to elevate platform immediately
Him: Your gonna want it to be completely at the bottom
Me: Internally screams
Hello- We just bought this printer and during the first print it stopped midway. Filament stopped coming out when printing. After watching this video I wanted to try a different filament and I see it is not extruding the first filament. What should I do?
the same problem. have u fixed this problem?
Mine isn’t purging?
Yea
1:55
Third icon from the bottom...and instead heads to the second icon from the bottom. 🤣
For me it says extruded doesn’t heat up
Please help mine won't purge
You probably didn’t insert the new filament properly. Once you push it all the way in it does it just fine
Damn, a year old and the price has only gone up
I'm still seeing $299 for this printer.
wtf
shit.....what i do is stick a piece of filament in the the useless run out sensor, heat up the nozzle and yank it out. Then just push new stuff. It takes 50 seconds for it to stop wasting your filament. 10 seconds or just seeing it come out the nozzle from pushing it is all you need. Hang your spool from above like on a wall and give that foot long bowden tube the finger. Thats one of the reasons you get a D.D. so you dont have to run your Fil. through that tube anymore. And y is the firmware so locked down?......i cant even adjust the layer height during a print