How to replace power steering rack on Honda Ridgeline
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2021
- Thanks for the support, this was a bit frustrating at times and took some effort and “muscle” to get it out. But overall it turned out great.
I hope this helps you DIYers out there and those learning! Thanks for coming on the journey with me!
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Great Video, I’ve been watching it over and over again.Trying to get pumped up to do it on my 2006 Ridgeline.I appreciate it that you took your time to explain it thoroughly.It’s by far the Beat video on the Subject.
Thank you! I appreciate it! I did it again shortly afterwards and it only took about 2 hrs. Just make sure you drop the rear half of the subframe at least 1” to make it easier.
Thank you Renegade. Appreciate the video.
Your welcome! Thanks for the support!
Thanks man I live in Barbados and I have the same problem
Glad this could help. Thanks man
I'm doing one tomorrow. I'm a professional. I actually rebuild this truck from salvage title, two years ago.
Watching you first, because I'm doing this in his garage on my back. And I want to have it done in one day. So I can be forgetting any tools I need.
So I'm studying up with you, before I go
Also... I replace the lines when I do the rack.
I just cut the old lines off.
That’s awesome! Best of luck. I hope this helped
Great video !
Thanks brother.
@@RenegadeHQ your welcome!
I've got the same year and color ridge! Great video, but damn this looks to be a freaking job lol
Ya the first time to figure it out took a minute but the second time I did it only took a few hrs. From start to finish. Saved $1000 in labor cost. Haha.
So just did the steering gear on my Friends 2009 Ridgeline. Had to drop the subframe, used a small jack and 4 axle stands. It works very well. I was able to drop it about 2 inches and I had enough clearance. The only difficulty was the blind bolt on the stiffening bracket over the gear, and doing the threaded hose fitting on the steering gear. It took me about 3 days working about 4 to 8 hours a day. I also replaced the front struts on both sides and the outboard tie rod ends. It was a challenge to say the least.
I hope this video was helpful for you! Those fittings are pretty difficult to thread in there. Where to stick it out and get all that done my friend!
But you got it done, man good job! I'm facing the same, but stuck on which part to buy... only want to do this once... dealer quotes $3k installed) ... so do I a) rebuild, b) dismantler/low mile, c) aftermarket, d) new oem, e) drop off at dealer (any regrets?) tia
@@pauldickey9 Well I used a rebuilt unit that I bought from Cardone Industries. Was about 500 Canadian with a 200 core fee that is refundable when you return the old unit. Im 61 and have been fixing and maintaining my own cars and motorcycles for decades now. Aftermarket remanufactured or rebuilt has never failed me. I would however stay away from used parts, because of the effort required to do this job.
Just joined the ridge club, so glad you made this 😅 this is the only thing I could find faulty on the truck and the dealership wouldn't fix it. Thank you so much
Your welcome! Glad it helped! Thanks for supporting the channel!
👍🏾 nice job thanks
Your welcome! Thanks for the support!
Hey Thanks for the the Video, I am curious about the Snorkel.
Thanks for the support! There is a video I made detailing everything about it.
Great video, thank you Renegade!!!!
I just replaced my R&P with new lines and pump. I thought I could get it done in 4-5 hours. Turns out it was torcher. I dropped the frame 2-3 inches and was able to slide the old unit out but getting the lines disconnected was next to impossible. I spent hours on that. Getting the new unit in was horrible. The elbow the cylinder lines connect to were slightly higher and got hung up on the bracket and would not go in. I tried bending the bracket a bit but that didn't help. I finally grabbed my disk grinder with cutoff wheel and removed about an 1/8 inch from the bracket so it would go back in. Getting the new pressure line started was impossible. I ended up pulling the rack most of the way out, screwing the new line in (not tight) and then feeding the rack and line back into place. I tightened the pressure and return lines with a crows foot. All that took me hours too.
Last problem I had (and please chime in with comments): The top mounting flange bolt came out really hard but the bottom one was easy. I discovered the bolt's threads were severely mangled. Previously I had the rack replaced by a mechanic and I think he must have cross threaded it and stripped the bolt and nut. I got a new bolt and tried everything and could not get it started and I did make sure the hole was aligned. Again, I suspect the nut is stripped. The bottom bolt went in easy. Thus, I am running with only the bottom mounting bolt on the left and the clamp over the rubber grommet on the right holding the rack in place. I'm a bit nervous, but I don't know what else to do.
Sounds like you had a hell of a time with that! Great job figuring it out.
I would most definitely get another bolt in there asap. Just get a tap and rethread the hole if possible. You don’t want all that pressure on the steering components without it held it place. Best of luck and thanks for the support!
@@RenegadeHQ thanks for the response. I tried to get a tap to start too but it just spun. Think I'm going to have to spend the $$$ and get a professional to do it.
Awe, that sucks! Will a bolt and nut fit in it? If there’s space just drill it out and run a bigger bolt and nut through it haha
@@RenegadeHQ I'm going to tear into it again in a couple of weeks and try again with the tap. I work from home so I don't drive it far or fast, so it should be safe for the time being.
I don't think I can get a drill up in there without completely taking the subframe off the truck because it is the top mount. Another option is running a smaller bolt (like a 8mm) through the hole with a nut like you suggested. That would be a last resort but it is better than nothing.
Thanks for the suggestions!
I finally got back to it last weekend. I dropped the subframe and unbolted the tie rods and R&P and slid it to the left out of the way of the mount holes. I was just able to run a tap through (10mm - 1.25) on the top nut that was cross threaded. Thankfully I got both the top and bottom bolts screwed in correctly and torqued to spec (58 N-m | 5.9 kgf-m, 43 lbf-ft). I also replaced the struts and CV axles and got it aligned. It drives like new now. Thanks again @RenegadeHQ
Awesome job! What brand of remanufactured rack did you use, and has it held up?
I just got it from O’reillys. It’s done great.
Thanks for the awesome vid. One question. Every other vid I’ve seen had the folks lowering their sub frame. You didn’t show this
Is there anything different about your truck that kept you from having to lower the subframe? Thanks!
Great question. I do have spacers that gave me a 1” subframe drop. If you don’t have that then you will need to lower the subframe.
I was about to try this but Ill just take it to the shop after this 🤣
I had to do it again, following the video (having experience) I did it in 2.5 hrs. Right after work. It’s not to bad. If you want to save money. Haha
@Renegade_HQ You had to do it again? What happened? Did it start leaking or what? My professional mechanic wants to charge me $1750 😳. My cousin is a DIY backyard mechanic (but he's done one in a different vehicle). He says he can put this in my 2006 Ridgeline for just the cost of parts. I'm nervous, it's my baby. He's pretty confident. If it doesn't get done right, I'm assuming it could do some major damage. 🤷♀️ I live in Utah btw. Love your videos 😃
O that’s awesome! It’s a really simple job actually. I did it in 2.5 hr the second time. I had to do it again because I broke the first one 😂
I would not pay $1750 for someone to do it.
@Renegade_HQ Oh my goodness 😆 I can see why, you run your truck pretty hard, but I'm amazed at what you're doing with it. It's awesome! Thanks for responding back. 😊
for future projects don't hit the bottom of the outer tie rod hit the outside of the bracket that the tie rod goes into or use a pickle fork to separate
Ya, I learned to just smack the side of the hub where the tie rod bolts, that’ll pop it out as well.
@@RenegadeHQ yes sir. Love all the content dude I just bought a 2009 ridgeline last February and am loving it
That’s awesome!! I love mine and the performance is impressive!
I just got my first Ridgeline, what kind of suspension do you use? 3 inch lift?
Hey congratulations on your purchase! I have an upgrade video posted as well that goes through everything.
Thanks for sharing your work. How exactly did you unbolt the power steering lines? You said 17mm and 19mm but I can’t see how you would fit a wrench in there to crack them.
From the angle I’m filming on the driver side there is a little bit of room to work with if you have the wrench vertical. The wrenches fit, just gotta font the pocket. You’ll have to loosen your subframe down about 1” to pull out the rack also.
I have a 2011 Honda Ridgeline rts.
Why does my vsa and triangle light come on.
After my rack and pinion is changed?
I’m not a mechanic but how is the alignment?is the steering wheel off center?
The struggle is what I wanted to see. You didn't show the most critical moments of the job
That’s a lot of footage haha. I tried to show what needed to be done so it wasn’t to drawn out haha
You didn't have to drop the sub frame to allow clearance to remove the steering rack?
I have a 1” subframe drop installed.
@@RenegadeHQ when you dropped the sub frame what did you use to support it?
@@harryl8234 I have spacers installed from HRG. When I installed them I just loosened the bolts enough to fit the spacers, installed 1 at a time and used the longer bolts that came with the kit.
@@harryl8234 I didn’t drop it completely. Just loosen the bolts enough to get it out. I didn’t touch the subframe while doing this. It had a 1” spacer
@@RenegadeHQ Great job. Thanks for sharing.
Looks like you didnt drop the subframe, right?
I didn’t need to since I already had a 1” subframe drop kit installed.
@@RenegadeHQ pretty slick
I'm doing one for my Wife's friend. Its just a regular one. I just did a Ford Edge and hope it's the same way, where I just lowered the subframe a few inches and it gave me the clearance I needed to remove the rack.
@@RenegadeHQ love your Honda repairs!
@@redcommsguy I appreciate that! I hope it all works out for you!
How much did you pay for you rack and pin?
I think I paid $200.. maybe $300 if I remember right
Could of just lowered the rear sub frame
It had the 1” subframe drop on it already, which is the only way I was able to do it… I didn’t know that trick when filming! DEFINITELY would have made things easier! Haha
Surprised you didn’t get hurt...
Nah, wasn’t to bad haha