A pleasure to watch a professional at work. Every eventuality anticipated. Every once in a while a specialized term sneaks in. Perhaps a caption to clarify?
Nice job sam! Wouldnt like to be the person who has to come and rod that drain if need be. Hope youve put some grease round that cover to make life a bit easier if it ever has to be removed, helps make a nice seal too. 😉
I'm glad I saw you chamfering the edge of the waste pipe. I'll be replacing ours soon and that's probably something I would have overlooked. I assume the champfer is there to ensure a good seal with the rubber ring?
Brilliant Sam, it's great to watch british tradesmen and lady at work , I see you put cement and bricks to support the floor joists from moving , just a thought could you have used 4 x4 wood block on its end with dpc on the bottom to support joist ? loved the soft porn music 🙂 all the best 👍
One question I always wanted to ask was about the wall ties and insulation - does one not block the other? Do you start with a line of ties at DPC level, then put in a board of insulation yay high then another line of ties above it? It's something I've never heard on any of the videos I've seen.
Some modern methods I question if they will prove to be better in the future. It's good to see the bricklayer laying the bricks the correct way and using all the off cuts on your block work . All help to be a little bit more environmentally friendly on building sites that generally are know for wasting so much good material. Nice job on the whole though but, ditch the Marshall Town jointer as there are much better tools on the market giving you a much better finish.
It's a very good build n clear, logical commentary. Thames water in SE England don't allow for double seal manholes n I thought it was similar ax England...? I'm trying to do something similar to u, but build a side infill extension however i have an end of sewer run next-door which is just over 2m deep. Thames water in their literature state the foundations hv to b 1m away. In ur experience what can b done to build to my neighbours boundary but not 1m away as it wd not b worth building the extension. Comments appreciated. Take care.
That is not the case. Thames Water are not responsible for a private drain and Sam did say this is a private drain. They don't allow them on sewers when there is a build over agreement but you can leave them in place and provide external access outside the building. I have seen them buried beneath a concrete floor slab in the past and it is has been passed.
@@SkillBuilder thx v much for the clarification, very much appreciated. How wd I build closer to my boundary if the foundations wd need to b 1metre away. Is there some sort of bridging that can b used. Wht hv u seen in ur experiences. If I hv to build a metre away, it means my side extension will only b 1/2 m wide so not worth it. Value your comments. . Thx
@@RS-ei3yt It is tricky. We find that Thames Water don't even come out, they just take your money and trust you. I think if you put some polystyrene in between the foundations and the drain it is possible to build closer and I have done it. Bridging is always possible. You need a couple of concrete blocks in the ground 1 cubic metre and then bridge over to them and run a couple of ground beams above the drain. If you renew the drain run and surround it with pea shingle the can alwasy get at it and that is all they need.
so many bricklayers on youtube putting up profiles and trying to set a new world record and achieving nothing , this type of vid shows you can do a nice steady pace and get the same /better results stress free
In the UK, do you instulate the "crawl space" under the floor joists? If so, how? Between joist insulation? Insulation applied to the walls around the space? If not, why not? There are air vents, so there is the potential for a lot of very cold air flowing constantly under the floor. Insulating that floor space in some way typically saves in heating costs. Just curious.
@@MikeyComptonRidgid foil backed insulation cut to fit between the joists I'd imagine. There's no better way to build a floor, the more timber in a house the better, 👍💪🔨🇮🇪
We moved ours, and I’m sure building control mentioned to us that they wouldn’t allow internal manholes anymore either. Can rules vary in regions or something?
As it is a privately owned drain where no other sewer runs through it, it was permitted. The client insisted that it was designed that way! it was out of my hands!! The work we carried out was passed by building control. @@ItzD3fW1sH
@@SkillBuilder totally understand the market but all of the big manufacturers now offer bricks to match in with the LBC ranges that offer better frost protection and are generally a better quality brick (less damages per pack) they are cheaper too!
I presented the client with one of these bricks, explained that are cheaper and better quality but they insisted on the Lbcs! What can you do!!?@@extralifegaming3326
@@hoobsgrooveagree. Just finished an extension building control made us get rid of the chamber and replace it with a branch and a Roding eye externally
There is adequate access to the gas tight inspection chamber lid for future Roding. We cut an access panel in the flooring that allows access to the screw down lid. It is tight but does work! It was designed by an architect at the request of the client and was signed off by building control.
I mean the manhole under the floor is not ideal, i would of expected that to be raised and joists around it with a air tight cover, then it sit just below but not touching floor boards. This would allow for access at at later date, you don’t currently have access as it sits below the floor which is my problem. No reason it would be lifted or even diverted if it wasn’t t9 be lifted.
Another fantastic instalment, sit back with a cup of tea and just watch….. 👍🏽
Always nice to see quality work.😊
Nice job! Love watching people working their trade
Nice to see quality work being done, what a great team.
Looking forward to seeing Dan the man.👍
Great videos,kp m coming,🇨🇮🇨🇮
Really enjoying this series. 👍🏼
These guys know what there doing
Quality build for sure
A pleasure to watch a professional at work. Every eventuality anticipated. Every once in a while a specialized term sneaks in. Perhaps a caption to clarify?
good idea thank you
Nice job sam! Wouldnt like to be the person who has to come and rod that drain if need be. Hope youve put some grease round that cover to make life a bit easier if it ever has to be removed, helps make a nice seal too. 😉
Love it!
I'm glad I saw you chamfering the edge of the waste pipe. I'll be replacing ours soon and that's probably something I would have overlooked. I assume the champfer is there to ensure a good seal with the rubber ring?
It is to stop the cut end from damagint the O'Ring. You also need silicone lube for an easy fit
Care and attention to detail evident. Only thing is continuing the cavity with the existing house, or vertical dpc?
that new pipe into the drain looks mint 😎 5:07
shame no ones gonna see it 🤣🤣
thank you I know its there though
true always the way mate!
looking forward to seeing the rest 👍
@@SJWardBuilders 👍
At the wall starter, shouldn’t the internal corner have foam strip and mastic to allow for movement?
That is done on the new work side of the wall starter.
What’s with the white blocks are they any good ?
liking this
Brilliant Sam, it's great to watch british tradesmen and lady at work , I see you put cement and bricks to support the floor joists from moving , just a thought could you have used 4 x4 wood block on its end with dpc on the bottom to support joist ? loved the soft porn music 🙂 all the best 👍
A bumper brickwork video . Shame about the god awful bricks .
Nice to see Mr Cox helping out the lid on next week 😁🤜🏽🤛🏽🧱👍🏽
😮🫡
🪚🔨🙌🏻
Thank you
I thought that was Dan!
One question I always wanted to ask was about the wall ties and insulation - does one not block the other? Do you start with a line of ties at DPC level, then put in a board of insulation yay high then another line of ties above it? It's something I've never heard on any of the videos I've seen.
Yeah every 2 blocks in height
Some modern methods I question if they will prove to be better in the future. It's good to see the bricklayer laying the bricks the correct way and using all the off cuts on your block work . All help to be a little bit more environmentally friendly on building sites that generally are know for wasting so much good material.
Nice job on the whole though but, ditch the Marshall Town jointer as there are much better tools on the market giving you a much better finish.
It's a very good build n clear, logical commentary.
Thames water in SE England don't allow for double seal manholes n I thought it was similar ax England...?
I'm trying to do something similar to u, but build a side infill extension however i have an end of sewer run next-door which is just over 2m deep. Thames water in their literature state the foundations hv to b 1m away. In ur experience what can b done to build to my neighbours boundary but not 1m away as it wd not b worth building the extension. Comments appreciated. Take care.
That is not the case. Thames Water are not responsible for a private drain and Sam did say this is a private drain.
They don't allow them on sewers when there is a build over agreement but you can leave them in place and provide external access outside the building. I have seen them buried beneath a concrete floor slab in the past and it is has been passed.
@@SkillBuilder thx v much for the clarification, very much appreciated.
How wd I build closer to my boundary if the foundations wd need to b 1metre away. Is there some sort of bridging that can b used. Wht hv u seen in ur experiences. If I hv to build a metre away, it means my side extension will only b 1/2 m wide so not worth it. Value your comments. . Thx
@@RS-ei3yt It is tricky. We find that Thames Water don't even come out, they just take your money and trust you. I think if you put some polystyrene in between the foundations and the drain it is possible to build closer and I have done it. Bridging is always possible. You need a couple of concrete blocks in the ground 1 cubic metre and then bridge over to them and run a couple of ground beams above the drain. If you renew the drain run and surround it with pea shingle the can alwasy get at it and that is all they need.
@@SkillBuilder thank u so much. Ive been watching ur videos for years now, thanks for your honest and practical advice as always...i think ur a star.
so many bricklayers on youtube putting up profiles and trying to set a new world record and achieving nothing , this type of vid shows you can do a nice steady pace and get the same /better results stress free
corners for show, profiles for dough
@@LegionUK depends how desperate you are for the dough , use yer loaf and make life easier
@@jackrussell9811 By that logic you should use profiles since they make life easier
So triggered by the crescent wrench @6:21, could he not find a socket set? lol. :)
Brickies don't like buying tools.
Still better than 2lb universal spanner
The use of the bolt/nut rounder is critical to prevent the bolts being removed. Otherwise the whole job might come down.
Cordless 1/2" drive impact wrench all Day long for that job, 👍💪🔨🇮🇪
What was the reason u didn’t move the location of manhole?
the client didn't want it in his lawn
For a simple connection I've used a y connection with another y behind with the branch going out to a rodding eye
Starting to take shape Sam. 😉
thank you Dan
👍
No insulation in the cavity, or did I just miss it?
It is there, I am not sure what happened to the footage but hopefully we will see it in the next episode
We used 100mm dri therm 32!
Thicker flooring, thicker joists, deeper concrete, funny how none of these old skinny joisted no foundation houses don't fall down 😂
Yeah they tend to just lean, crack and leak!
My hoddy used to say, "Every snot you drop on the ground is another bit of my hard work wasted." ...
Love watching other people doing hard work 😂
Why didn't you use concrete floor beams
Not on the drawing. Builders build unless it is a design and build we just do what is passed on the drawings
No class b for getting of the ground ?
In the UK, do you instulate the "crawl space" under the floor joists?
If so, how? Between joist insulation? Insulation applied to the walls around the space?
If not, why not? There are air vents, so there is the potential for a lot of very cold air flowing constantly under the floor. Insulating that floor space in some way typically saves in heating costs.
Just curious.
Cold air is good for ventilation to avoid damp. But yes floor will be very insulated too
@@IverKnackerov How will it be insulated?
@@MikeyComptonRidgid foil backed insulation cut to fit between the joists I'd imagine. There's no better way to build a floor, the more timber in a house the better, 👍💪🔨🇮🇪
Uh oh Dan's doing the roof
Man holes inside the property I wouldn’t ever advise. Spend the extra money and move it.
We moved ours, and I’m sure building control mentioned to us that they wouldn’t allow internal manholes anymore either. Can rules vary in regions or something?
As it is a privately owned drain where no other sewer runs through it, it was permitted. The client insisted that it was designed that way! it was out of my hands!! The work we carried out was passed by building control. @@ItzD3fW1sH
Why people still use LBC bricks in 2023 is mind boggling!!
Save money and get a better quality brick by using the ibstock tradesman range
LBC bricks are still made for extensions etc where people have to match the existing. That is the main market.
@@SkillBuilder totally understand the market but all of the big manufacturers now offer bricks to match in with the LBC ranges that offer better frost protection and are generally a better quality brick (less damages per pack) they are cheaper too!
I presented the client with one of these bricks, explained that are cheaper and better quality but they insisted on the Lbcs! What can you do!!?@@extralifegaming3326
I don't like that idea much having a drain manhole inside, why can't they redirect it and put it on the pavement? Be a better solution
It will never be opened. These days you can jet drains from way away if they ever need it which is doubtful
@@SkillBuilder You're saying that would never overflow?? why don't you just do away with them manhole and just connect a new piece of piping
@@hoobsgrooveagree. Just finished an extension building control made us get rid of the chamber and replace it with a branch and a Roding eye externally
There is adequate access to the gas tight inspection chamber lid for future Roding. We cut an access panel in the flooring that allows access to the screw down lid. It is tight but does work! It was designed by an architect at the request of the client and was signed off by building control.
Old mate bricky needs to invest in a raking tool his joints are putrid
I mean the manhole under the floor is not ideal, i would of expected that to be raised and joists around it with a air tight cover, then it sit just below but not touching floor boards. This would allow for access at at later date, you don’t currently have access as it sits below the floor which is my problem. No reason it would be lifted or even diverted if it wasn’t t9 be lifted.
There is adequate access! it wasn't an after thought and was installed following drawings from an architect following the clients requests
I am drunk but I've never seen joist hangers go in at damp ...I'm not saying it's wrong but I am drunk .
the joist hangers are actually one course above dpc and had to be painted with a water proof membrane or wrapped in Dpm
Lbc, inferior brick!!!
Talk about dragging job out!
Yes much better to throw it up and leg it to the pub with your cash.
@@SkillBuilder😂
Or doing a job properly... Not just a slap n dash newbuild.
Why would you build red facing brick on the inside skin of a footing???
because they are the chipped ones that could not be used on the face. They have one face
@SkillBuilder nothing more annoying than a load of chipped brick🤣