I have great respect for the people who have the skills and patience to work on these miserable cars. I love 64-66 T Birds but they are vexatious to work on with those complicated and troublesome wiring and vacuum hose problems they always have. Back in the day, the dealership mechanics despised them. In addition they wore out suspension components quickly. Replacing the upper control arm shafts was a tough and dangerous job. At today’s crazy labor rates I can’t imagine what a dash wiring job would cost!
Hey Craig. The only Thunderbird that has wiring problems is the 64. They characteristically burn the amp meter wiring from the amp meter through the fuse box. I never did figure out why they do this. Since most do it, finding unburned wiring is the trick. Replacing the burned wiring is a big deal since the dash needs to come out and you need to locate good wiring. I used to sell good used wiring looms but getting the dealers today to sell that stuff is a problem. That's why I had to hand make the wiring for the Thelma and Louise car, nobody would take the time to look in their inventory to see if they had what I needed. When I say hand make, I mean that I took a 66 hardtop wiring loom and grafted in the convertible wiring from another car to complete the loom. The wiring that was in the car was a joke and I'm very surprised the car ran at all.
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 When I was a kid my best buddy’s dad bought a new 1965 with all of the desirable options. I loved that beautiful car but I remember he had constant problems with it mostly electrical and vacuum problems. At 100,000 miles it was pretty worn out. If you weren’t careful it would pop into reverse and take off! How Ford got away with that is a mystery to me! He traded it in on a Buick Riviera that never gave him any problems. Before the 65 T Bird he had a 63 T Bird. It was HORRIBLE on brakes and it ATE power window switches!
Your video has saved me a lot of aggravation... I've been scratching my head for weeks, trying to figure out how to put the wiring back correctly. Then I stumbled upon your video... had it done in a couple hours... Thank you
Nick you were spot on with your help to me on my 66 door window and trim panel repair, Thanks now onto the front seats I cannot find anywhere where they talk about what to do with the very small wires that seem to go thru the burlap on the underside of my seat. Have searched but no answers yet. Thought you would know since you do a lot of Birds.Thanks...
Hey Rodney, I'm not sure I understand what you mean but I guess your talking about wires or strings that hold the seat material or foam to the seat springs? I do not do upholstery, never recovered seats. I don't know the answer to that sorry. Speak to someone who does auto upholstery. Good luck.
Video awesome awesome I wish I could watch this before I did my own - reinstallation hach job I'm so impressed with this video as I'm waiting for my engine work to get redone I will take the three hours or so I think it's going to take to disconnect and pull it out again because I wanted to be right at this point of the game thank you so much again for sharing
Thanks again for videos and sage advice!! Putting our old tbird back together would be he'll without you and your videos. Your video on throttle linkage and the reproduction door panel saved us this weekend! Will never be able to thank you enough!! Jeff and Alec in WI, 66' Tbirdus Maximus. You save us so much time and agony with your videos and replies to questions! Merry Christmas!!!
Thanks Nick, (again), for taking the time to share what you know. Bench tested my gauge voltage regulator. All my gauges went out due to me replacing the speed-o cable and pulling some wires. After checking the fuse panel and diving under the dash I found I'd pulled the wires from the gauge voltage regulator. Repairs underway.
Hey Thomas, you can do it. Just take a million photos of each screw and bolt and where everything went and then you can put it back together again. Its not hard, just a lot of work with a lot of parts. Keep everything organized. Good luck.
You make it look so easy... well I was planning to remove my instrument cluster as I know I have a fried wire a green wire that the insulation is all bubbled up. I think it comes off the ignition and goes to the center console area. You can see where in the past some one has spliced it twice in the past. must have used it for a CB or something. So I want to pull the instrument cluster out so I can better get to that green wire to replace it. My speed omiter cable needs to be replaced as well so I might as well.
Hey Mike, plan your job well. Once the dash is out, fix everything while you have the chance. Clean everything under the dash too. You can rebuild your vacuum system while there also. Good luck.
I’m so glad I found your channel I just subscribed. I bought a fully loaded 66 Landau last week . It will be needing a dash pad among other things like the passenger side electric wing window is stuck open. Thanks for all the info.
I just bought a 1966 tbird with 31k miles. For some reason they unplugged everything. And I’m just trying to figure everything out. You make everything look so easy
Nick, This was a video worth waiting for, my friend. Excellent job. Clears up everything. Two questions: Are the original large wire bundle connectors color coded like those in the video? And who did the re-chrome job on the instrument cluster mounting? Regards, John
Thanks John. I guess your going to be doing something similar soon to your 66? Most Thunderbirds have the wire bundle connectors (I call them plug ends) colored black but they are configured/shaped differently so you cannot plug them in wrong. There is the red one which every Thunderbird has but that is the only one that is not black.
Also, the chrome was done at Van Nuys Plating in the San Fernando Valley in Los Angeles. They did a very nice job on a piece that is crappy pot metal with a lot of curves. I had all the dash and center console chrome rechromed since it was all heavily pitted and the customers agreed that they looked so bad that rechroming was necessary.
Nick, great visual tutorial as always. Thanks so much. As far as dash removal goes, besides the items you show during assembly, any tips? Bill in Oklahoma
Hey Bill, yes take lots of photos of screws and hardware and where they came out of and how things were put together so you can then reinstall everything and know where it all went. Good luck
Hello Nick, the dash videos are really great. The lower mounting brackets look adjustable. Do you lift up on the dash as far as it can go, or is there a specific adjustment? Also, when removing the dash, other than the mounting bolts is there any type of adhesive used to look out for? Thanks, George B. in Michigan
Hey George, the lower mounting brackets, you mean the ones on the left and right? Yes those are adjustable up and down. I adjust the top where the dash sits into the windshield rubber and then worry about the bottom last. Those can be adjusted at any time. I don't force them up but do put a slight preload on them meaning that I push up a little and then bolt them down. I guess there's no specific reason except to remove any unnecessary play/looseness. The dash pad is glued to the metal frame. Once in a while they just slip right off but I wouldnt count on that. Usually you have to take a puddy knife and gently separate the dash from the frame. Its tricky so be careful. Its usually around the speaker grille that you have to worry about. The other places are not a problem. Good luck.
Good question. I've never tried that. I guess what would need to be done is someone change all the bulbs with LED and see if they illuminate everything properly. Its too late for me because I'm already reassembling everything. I never even thought of it. Might be the way to go in the future. Thanks
Hey BMT, sorry for the late reply. I usually only do videos on those cars that I am working on and rarely do I get a 67 or later car. So, for now, I have nothing to use to make any videos. sorry.
Hello Nick, Thank you for the great video - I started the reinstallation process last weekend. I am doing this without the windshield installed. Hopefully finish it up this weekend. Do you have any suggestions to maintain the tightness at the windshield weather stripping you mentioned once the windshield is installed.
Hey Jeffrey, we had issue with that with this dash as well. We had to struggle with it pushing up hard while trying to bolt it down. I bent the center dash mounting brackets down a tad to bring the lip of the dash up to meet the rubber since the center of the dash was below the rubber at first but the sides were okay. Those brackets obviously have a lot to do with the fit. Some dashes fit right in without a problem, the one in the video was a struggle. I edited most of that out since it took up a lot of time. If you have the windshield out, maybe you can put something under the speaker area of the dash like a plank with a rope on it and pull up while bolting it down?? The windshield is in our car so we didn't have that option. Theres not a lot of options there. Thanks.
This thread is a few years old but looking for some help. My cluster voltage regulator tested fine with a meter. I still have no dash lights or operational gauges. When you say the CVR needs to be grounded. Is it just grounded by the bolt?
Hey William, yes, it is just grounded by the bolt that holds it to the back side of the speedo assembly. If your gauges dont work, its either the CVR, the sending units, the gauges themselves which is easy to test, or the wiring, probably the wires in the engine compartment. Its a process of elimination. Good luck.
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 for an video a few years old I appreciate the quick response! I am trying to test everything I can before taking the gauge cluster out. As I have read that can be a pain. As far as the wires in the engine compartment. Do you have any more insight on that? I have tested the CVR. It is operating as advertised and is grounded.
@@williamhumble4740 I reproduced the 3 sending unit wires in the engine compartment that go to the oil send, temp send and coil positive wire. They have to be spliced in the loom at the firewall. The sending units you can purchase new. However, testing them is easy, just ground the wires with the key on but for just a second. Have someone in the car to watch the gauge. If the gauge needle starts to go to the right, then the wires and gauge are good. You can do the same thing for the fuel sending unit power wire too.
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 i grounded the gauges. And they all operated when grounded. Sorry for all the comments/ responses. I feel like I’ve hit a dead end road with forums online. What would you suggest next?
I know this is an old Video but hopefully you will see my Question . What would the part number of the after market relay be for the Fender turn signal light flasher be please . Mine is on a 66 . Thanks in advance .
I dont know the part number but I bought it at the Birds Nest. Call them and they will be glad to sell you one. It worked very well in that car I restored. Thanks.
Sorry, I may not have answered your question properly. The fender relay controls the fender lights for the turn signals. It also makes the clicking sound for the turn signals. It is under the dash on the drivers side as pictured in the video.
Cent is a Land area measurement . I was just reminding some of your viewers if they're going through all that removal you might want to do the things that you don't want to do it again along with all the vacuum lines and gauge regulator good tutorial i did 10 0f them a real pain
@@ihave35cents95 I've heard that before somewhere but forgot about it completely and didn't make the connection. I looked it up and its 1/100th of an acre. So 35 is roughly a third of an acre, not too shabby. You learn something new every day.
@@ihave35cents95 In this video, I repainted (redyed) the dash with SEM vinyl dye. Two colors, white and black. It turned out very nice if I don't say so myself. If the dash were damaged, Id send it to Just Dashes and have them restore it. I have a video about their work as well. Thanks.
Hey Mike, you need a volt meter and power like a car battery. You ground the body of the CVR to the negative terminal of the battery, apply power to one of the terminals on the CVR with the positive terminal of the battery and hook a volt meter to the other terminal. If the CVR is good, you will get a pulsing, on - off - on -off etc. Its easier to use an analog volt meter, not a digital volt meter.
Ive had problems with the new CVR's. They work for a few days and then they fail. I have not had this happen with a lot of them since after the second time, I just use used one. Ive had no issues with used ones. It seems that everything Ford made originally is always better than the reproductions. Thanks.
The two best places for me are the Birds Nest and Thunderbird Headquarters. Both are very reputable companies. Birds Nest has a large inventory of used parts too.
I have taken my dash apart but all the gauge/speedometer lights do not work, the only light that works on the drivers side of the dash is the bright headlight indicator light. i tested the bulbs and they are good. Any ideas as to what it may be?
Well the lights get their signal (power) from the head light switch. So check the switch or the plug that goes onto the switch. You should have a wiring diagram, it would help you to search out these issues.
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 30 min east of Oxnard i need help with ac and heating underneath the dash just so you kniw dash has already been removed everything is wide open
@@eddieadame7159 Well everything in the video also applies to 1961-63 Thunderbirds. The only difference is that you have no vacuum going to the defroster or AC compressor switch. Both of those on your car are cable operated. Otherwise the plenum is identical, the vacuum system is identical and routed the same, and the heater box is exactly the same and comes apart the same. However, your heater valve is bolted to the heater core and there is no thermostatic vacuum switch in the fan compartment. Actually, the vacuum system in your car is simpler than what you see in my video. My video shows how the vacuum hoses are routed and the layout of everything under the dash. So, I still dont know what exactly you need help with. I understand your going to fix the AC and heater, but what cant you do or what do you not understand?
I have great respect for the people who have the skills and patience to work on these miserable cars. I love 64-66 T Birds but they are vexatious to work on with those complicated and troublesome wiring and vacuum hose problems they always have. Back in the day, the dealership mechanics despised them. In addition they wore out suspension components quickly. Replacing the upper control arm shafts was a tough and dangerous job. At today’s crazy labor rates I can’t imagine what a dash wiring job would cost!
Hey Craig. The only Thunderbird that has wiring problems is the 64. They characteristically burn the amp meter wiring from the amp meter through the fuse box. I never did figure out why they do this. Since most do it, finding unburned wiring is the trick. Replacing the burned wiring is a big deal since the dash needs to come out and you need to locate good wiring. I used to sell good used wiring looms but getting the dealers today to sell that stuff is a problem. That's why I had to hand make the wiring for the Thelma and Louise car, nobody would take the time to look in their inventory to see if they had what I needed. When I say hand make, I mean that I took a 66 hardtop wiring loom and grafted in the convertible wiring from another car to complete the loom. The wiring that was in the car was a joke and I'm very surprised the car ran at all.
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 When I was a kid my best buddy’s dad bought a new 1965 with all of the desirable options. I loved that beautiful car but I remember he had constant problems with it mostly electrical and vacuum problems. At 100,000 miles it was pretty worn out. If you weren’t careful it would pop into reverse and take off! How Ford got away with that is a mystery to me! He traded it in on a Buick Riviera that never gave him any problems. Before the 65 T Bird he had a 63 T Bird. It was HORRIBLE on brakes and it ATE power window switches!
Your video has saved me a lot of aggravation... I've been scratching my head for weeks, trying to figure out how to put the wiring back correctly. Then I stumbled upon your video... had it done in a couple hours... Thank you
Hey User, your welcome. Im glad that video was able to help you. Its nice to have a source of reference. Good luck.
Nick you were spot on with your help to me on my 66 door window and trim panel repair, Thanks now onto the front seats I cannot find anywhere where they talk about what to do with the very small wires that seem to go thru the burlap on the underside of my seat. Have searched but no answers yet. Thought you would know since you do a lot of Birds.Thanks...
Hey Rodney, I'm not sure I understand what you mean but I guess your talking about wires or strings that hold the seat material or foam to the seat springs? I do not do upholstery, never recovered seats. I don't know the answer to that sorry. Speak to someone who does auto upholstery. Good luck.
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 Thanks Nick
Video awesome awesome I wish I could watch this before I did my own - reinstallation hach job I'm so impressed with this video as I'm waiting for my engine work to get redone I will take the three hours or so I think it's going to take to disconnect and pull it out again because I wanted to be right at this point of the game thank you so much again for sharing
Sure. Good luck with the redo.
Thanks again for videos and sage advice!! Putting our old tbird back together would be he'll without you and your videos. Your video on throttle linkage and the reproduction door panel saved us this weekend! Will never be able to thank you enough!! Jeff and Alec in WI, 66' Tbirdus Maximus. You save us so much time and agony with your videos and replies to questions! Merry Christmas!!!
Hey Jeff, thank you very much. Im glad to help you. Sounds like you have a nice project going. Good luck.
Thanks Nick, (again), for taking the time to share what you know. Bench tested my gauge voltage regulator. All my gauges went out due to me replacing the speed-o cable and pulling some wires. After checking the fuse panel and diving under the dash I found I'd pulled the wires from the gauge voltage regulator. Repairs underway.
Your welcome Nick
This is an excellent video. I just tore into my 65 bird after convincing myself I could do it
Hey Thomas, you can do it. Just take a million photos of each screw and bolt and where everything went and then you can put it back together again. Its not hard, just a lot of work with a lot of parts. Keep everything organized. Good luck.
You make it look so easy... well I was planning to remove my instrument cluster as I know I have a fried wire a green wire that the insulation is all bubbled up. I think it comes off the ignition and goes to the center console area. You can see where in the past some one has spliced it twice in the past. must have used it for a CB or something. So I want to pull the instrument cluster out so I can better get to that green wire to replace it. My speed omiter cable needs to be replaced as well so I might as well.
Hey Mike, plan your job well. Once the dash is out, fix everything while you have the chance. Clean everything under the dash too. You can rebuild your vacuum system while there also. Good luck.
I’m so glad I found your channel I just subscribed.
I bought a fully loaded 66 Landau last week .
It will be needing a dash pad among other things like the passenger side electric wing window is stuck open.
Thanks for all the info.
Thanks Tod, good luck with your new Thunderbird.
Man! I love your work !
Hey Carlosayon, thank you very much.
I just bought a 1966 tbird with 31k miles. For some reason they unplugged everything. And I’m just trying to figure everything out. You make everything look so easy
Perfect timing! Currently working on my dash.
Good luck. Hope it turns out okay.
Where are you located? I'm working on my 1966 T-bird. It would be great to connect sometime
Im in Colorado Springs, Colorado. Where are you?
E.L.O. 'Evil Woman' kicking in the background. I like your playlist.
Wow, you could hear that? Great song. Thank you.
great info
Thanks Rusty.
That was an amazing video and even with the book the manual was very misleading it led me to take more things apart then needed to be
Thanks Joe. Yes, I learned from trial and error, mostly error. I've probably broken everything at least twice. The book is lacking at best.
Excellent video, thank you so much!
Thank you.
Great video Nick, thanks!!
Nick,
This was a video worth waiting for, my friend. Excellent job. Clears up everything.
Two questions: Are the original large wire bundle connectors color coded like those in the video? And who did the re-chrome job on the instrument cluster mounting?
Regards,
John
Thanks John. I guess your going to be doing something similar soon to your 66? Most Thunderbirds have the wire bundle connectors (I call them plug ends) colored black but they are configured/shaped differently so you cannot plug them in wrong. There is the red one which every Thunderbird has but that is the only one that is not black.
Also, the chrome was done at Van Nuys Plating in the San Fernando Valley in Los Angeles. They did a very nice job on a piece that is crappy pot metal with a lot of curves. I had all the dash and center console chrome rechromed since it was all heavily pitted and the customers agreed that they looked so bad that rechroming was necessary.
Very helpful, thanks..
No worries!
Nick, great visual tutorial as always. Thanks so much. As far as dash removal goes, besides the items you show during assembly, any tips? Bill in Oklahoma
Hey Bill, yes take lots of photos of screws and hardware and where they came out of and how things were put together so you can then reinstall everything and know where it all went. Good luck
Nick
This week I’ll be pulling the dash, vacuum control and the HVAC plenum. Your vids are invaluable. Do you have any for the dash voltage regulator?
Hello Nick, the dash videos are really great. The lower mounting brackets look adjustable. Do you lift up on the dash as far as it can go, or is there a specific adjustment? Also, when removing the dash, other than the mounting bolts is there any type of adhesive used to look out for?
Thanks,
George B. in Michigan
Hey George, the lower mounting brackets, you mean the ones on the left and right? Yes those are adjustable up and down. I adjust the top where the dash sits into the windshield rubber and then worry about the bottom last. Those can be adjusted at any time. I don't force them up but do put a slight preload on them meaning that I push up a little and then bolt them down. I guess there's no specific reason except to remove any unnecessary play/looseness. The dash pad is glued to the metal frame. Once in a while they just slip right off but I wouldnt count on that. Usually you have to take a puddy knife and gently separate the dash from the frame. Its tricky so be careful. Its usually around the speaker grille that you have to worry about. The other places are not a problem. Good luck.
Is it worth , product availability or price, to use LEDs for the dash lights?
Good question. I've never tried that. I guess what would need to be done is someone change all the bulbs with LED and see if they illuminate everything properly. Its too late for me because I'm already reassembling everything. I never even thought of it. Might be the way to go in the future. Thanks
I tried led bulbs in the dash, but they didn't work great with the dimmer control... was basically an on/off scenario, not really dimming.
Машинка раритетная, интересно было бы прокатится на такой с ветерком.
Да, вождение сверху вниз, ветер в волосах, безусловно, опыт
I have had a super clean, always garaged 67 4 door since 1989. Any chance of tutorials on one of those......?
Hey BMT, sorry for the late reply. I usually only do videos on those cars that I am working on and rarely do I get a 67 or later car. So, for now, I have nothing to use to make any videos. sorry.
Hello Nick, Thank you for the great video - I started the reinstallation process last weekend. I am doing this without the windshield installed. Hopefully finish it up this weekend. Do you have any suggestions to maintain the tightness at the windshield weather stripping you mentioned once the windshield is installed.
Hey Jeffrey, we had issue with that with this dash as well. We had to struggle with it pushing up hard while trying to bolt it down. I bent the center dash mounting brackets down a tad to bring the lip of the dash up to meet the rubber since the center of the dash was below the rubber at first but the sides were okay. Those brackets obviously have a lot to do with the fit. Some dashes fit right in without a problem, the one in the video was a struggle. I edited most of that out since it took up a lot of time. If you have the windshield out, maybe you can put something under the speaker area of the dash like a plank with a rope on it and pull up while bolting it down?? The windshield is in our car so we didn't have that option. Theres not a lot of options there. Thanks.
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 Thank You !!
This thread is a few years old but looking for some help. My cluster voltage regulator tested fine with a meter. I still have no dash lights or operational gauges. When you say the CVR needs to be grounded. Is it just grounded by the bolt?
Hey William, yes, it is just grounded by the bolt that holds it to the back side of the speedo assembly. If your gauges dont work, its either the CVR, the sending units, the gauges themselves which is easy to test, or the wiring, probably the wires in the engine compartment. Its a process of elimination. Good luck.
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 for an video a few years old I appreciate the quick response! I am trying to test everything I can before taking the gauge cluster out. As I have read that can be a pain. As far as the wires in the engine compartment. Do you have any more insight on that? I have tested the CVR. It is operating as advertised and is grounded.
@@williamhumble4740 I reproduced the 3 sending unit wires in the engine compartment that go to the oil send, temp send and coil positive wire. They have to be spliced in the loom at the firewall. The sending units you can purchase new. However, testing them is easy, just ground the wires with the key on but for just a second. Have someone in the car to watch the gauge. If the gauge needle starts to go to the right, then the wires and gauge are good. You can do the same thing for the fuel sending unit power wire too.
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 i grounded the gauges. And they all operated when grounded. Sorry for all the comments/ responses. I feel like I’ve hit a dead end road with forums online. What would you suggest next?
I know this is an old Video but hopefully you will see my Question . What would the part number of the after market relay be for the Fender turn signal light flasher be please . Mine is on a 66 . Thanks in advance .
I dont know the part number but I bought it at the Birds Nest. Call them and they will be glad to sell you one. It worked very well in that car I restored. Thanks.
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 Thanks for your reply. I will give them a call .
what is the aftermarket fender relay? I got a a 1965, thank you, great video Nick!
I got it from Birds Nest. I don't have the part number but just ask them for it, they will know what you want. Good luck. Thanks.
Sorry, I may not have answered your question properly. The fender relay controls the fender lights for the turn signals. It also makes the clicking sound for the turn signals. It is under the dash on the drivers side as pictured in the video.
Hi, can you tell me what state are you in . I have a ford thunderbird 64 maybe you can help me. Thank you.
Hey Felix, I am in Colorado, the city of Colorado Springs.
Perfect time to slam a brand new heater core in there
Well if you only have 35 cents, you cant afford a heater core. lol
Cent is a Land area measurement . I was just reminding some of your viewers if they're going through all that removal you might want to do the things that you don't want to do it again along with all the vacuum lines and gauge regulator good tutorial i did 10 0f them a real pain
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 by the way who refinished the dash
@@ihave35cents95 I've heard that before somewhere but forgot about it completely and didn't make the connection. I looked it up and its 1/100th of an acre. So 35 is roughly a third of an acre, not too shabby. You learn something new every day.
@@ihave35cents95 In this video, I repainted (redyed) the dash with SEM vinyl dye. Two colors, white and black. It turned out very nice if I don't say so myself. If the dash were damaged, Id send it to Just Dashes and have them restore it. I have a video about their work as well. Thanks.
Hey Nick, how do you test the CVR?
Hey Mike, you need a volt meter and power like a car battery. You ground the body of the CVR to the negative terminal of the battery, apply power to one of the terminals on the CVR with the positive terminal of the battery and hook a volt meter to the other terminal. If the CVR is good, you will get a pulsing, on - off - on -off etc. Its easier to use an analog volt meter, not a digital volt meter.
What is it that's wrong with a new C.V.R?
Ive had problems with the new CVR's. They work for a few days and then they fail. I have not had this happen with a lot of them since after the second time, I just use used one. Ive had no issues with used ones. It seems that everything Ford made originally is always better than the reproductions. Thanks.
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 Thank you Nick, your insight is always more than helpful
Where do you go for parts on the restoration of your Thunderbird
The two best places for me are the Birds Nest and Thunderbird Headquarters. Both are very reputable companies. Birds Nest has a large inventory of used parts too.
I have taken my dash apart but all the gauge/speedometer lights do not work, the only light that works on the drivers side of the dash is the bright headlight indicator light. i tested the bulbs and they are good. Any ideas as to what it may be?
Well the lights get their signal (power) from the head light switch. So check the switch or the plug that goes onto the switch. You should have a wiring diagram, it would help you to search out these issues.
I have the same situation on my 66. I assume that I have a grounding problem. Hoping Nick has suggestions.
Found the source of dash lights not working--- bad contact at instrument light fuse. I had pulled cleaned and checked them a few months ago.
Yes! That was it for me as well
Yes! That was it for me as well
I need help on doing my 61 bird dashboard im 40 min north of los Angeles let me know if you czn help or if you know anyone thanks
Hey Eddie, what exactly do you need help with? Technical advice or physical help? You must be near Oxnard, Ventura?
@@vintagethunderbirdrepair9426 30 min east of Oxnard i need help with ac and heating underneath the dash just so you kniw dash has already been removed everything is wide open
@@eddieadame7159 Well everything in the video also applies to 1961-63 Thunderbirds. The only difference is that you have no vacuum going to the defroster or AC compressor switch. Both of those on your car are cable operated. Otherwise the plenum is identical, the vacuum system is identical and routed the same, and the heater box is exactly the same and comes apart the same. However, your heater valve is bolted to the heater core and there is no thermostatic vacuum switch in the fan compartment. Actually, the vacuum system in your car is simpler than what you see in my video. My video shows how the vacuum hoses are routed and the layout of everything under the dash. So, I still dont know what exactly you need help with. I understand your going to fix the AC and heater, but what cant you do or what do you not understand?