A magnetizing tip I'd give folks is to go through and scratch one side of your magnets with a hobby knife. This way you always know that the scratch side attaches to smooth. I put the smooth side out on the core model and scratch side out on all my weapons or bases.
I would suggest to do the metal strip on either all the weapons or all the hardpoints, and to keep this consistent across all the kits, to increase interchangeability between models.
For the support weapons platform it is enough to snip only the last bit and drill a hole in the same place. Then with a 1mm brass rod in the body and a hole in the weapon you can swap weapons without the need to a magnet. That can save you many magnets! I do magnetize the bikes and the autarch cause the rod is not enough to get stuck vertically or horizontally that way.
If i wanted to do this paint scheme but instead of army painter products if have to choose between Biel-Tan green shade paint from citadel or hexwraith flame contrast (speed) paint from citadel or a 3rd option also another shade paint- coelia green shade from citadel…….which of those 3 would be the best green to use?
The magnets are available from Amazon and they’re pretty cheap. The metal strips I cut out from dollar store baking pans. Here’s a RUclips short on that: Use Dollar Store Baking Pans for: Small Magnetizing Strips for Miniatures. ruclips.net/user/shortsT6kc7WrKCVY?feature=share
I’ve actually been using a box cutter and pairing cutting motion for years. It’s super safe and highly controllable. And the box cutter with the top overhang is actually the best for the pairing motion.
liked and subscribed because more people need to show how to properly magnetize kits
A magnetizing tip I'd give folks is to go through and scratch one side of your magnets with a hobby knife. This way you always know that the scratch side attaches to smooth. I put the smooth side out on the core model and scratch side out on all my weapons or bases.
That’s a good tip!
I would suggest to do the metal strip on either all the weapons or all the hardpoints, and to keep this consistent across all the kits, to increase interchangeability between models.
Awesome video! I had the chance to see this army up close at the Combat Patrol event the LGS hosted! Great work my man!
Thank you sir!
High quality video thanks
For the support weapons platform it is enough to snip only the last bit and drill a hole in the same place. Then with a 1mm brass rod in the body and a hole in the weapon you can swap weapons without the need to a magnet. That can save you many magnets! I do magnetize the bikes and the autarch cause the rod is not enough to get stuck vertically or horizontally that way.
Good tip!
If i wanted to do this paint scheme but instead of army painter products if have to choose between Biel-Tan green shade paint from citadel or hexwraith flame contrast (speed) paint from citadel or a 3rd option also another shade paint- coelia green shade from citadel…….which of those 3 would be the best green to use?
I use mainly Army Painter paints so I can’t say for sure. Hoping for others to leave some feedback.
Where do you get the magnets and metal strips?
The magnets are available from Amazon and they’re pretty cheap.
The metal strips I cut out from dollar store baking pans. Here’s a RUclips short on that:
Use Dollar Store Baking Pans for: Small Magnetizing Strips for Miniatures.
ruclips.net/user/shortsT6kc7WrKCVY?feature=share
didnt u used micro sol?
I actually didn’t need to. The micro set did the job by itself. The curves on these models isn’t as bad as a space marine’s pauldron.
Please buy a hobby knife. You are going to do yourself an injury with that box cutter. I winced every time you used it!
I’ve actually been using a box cutter and pairing cutting motion for years. It’s super safe and highly controllable. And the box cutter with the top overhang is actually the best for the pairing motion.
My hands are so calloused with cuts do to me being to cheap to use a hobby knife and using a box cutter instead