I'm not a machinist by trade but have a bench top mill that I just recently used for cutting a hole through 1/2" aluminum plate. I picked up a Hercules brand arbor and 3" hole saw with similar design cutting teeth to those seen in the video. What I discovered immediately is that if my intent was to cut a 3" hole, the considerable width of the cutting teeth ~ 1/8" wide maybe a little more, was entirely too wide for the purpose on the 1hp mill. At 170 rpm it screeched like mad and produced fine slither shaped chips the same length as the blade width, that would make perfect metal splinters. I returned it, picked up the conventional narrower tooth width, bi-metal 3" hole saw that was much cheaper. I drilled a 5/16" chip clearing hole for the teeth and it chattered for about 3 seconds on cut start and then sliced right through. The only thing that would have made it better, is additional chip clearing holes. Unless the cutout has a purpose, there's no need to stress the equipment by forcing it to cut a 1/8" wide, 360 degree groove when 1/16" will do. An additional note, the packaging did not show that the wider tooth saw was specified for any metal, it was vague in stating a few specifics and saying "Others". The hole saws here are probably perfect for anything but metal, the teeth are just too wide for it.
Hi again! Nice to see you up and working this year too! Thanks for your hole cutter tryout! Now, 500 rpm IS about twice as fast as a 50 mm hole cutter should be run in steel. Got my own set of these a few days back, and I cannot see the same inconsistent teeth workmanship or bad runout you show. Mine are all on dead center and with equal tooth height all thru. That said - I thought it was a good idea to take a 65 mm hole outta a 15 mm Al plate for a DIY following steady, so I put it up in our Arboga U 2508U mill/ drill, ran it at 204 rpm and fine fed the quill (if this mother digs in, run for cover!). All went absolutely fine half way thru, when the darned thing just snapped from the chuck. Reason: The break showed that the three chuck flats imposes high stress points (at that high torque) in the somewhat weak material (pretty big grains inside). So - feed them real slow in bigger diameters, have a rigid vise setup and a mill/ drill with some real torque. Keep up the good work! 2 cents from DIYSwede
@@tompas11A3n52KkX Seems like these cutter's teeth really want to hog in, as they have a cutting angle of about 15 degrees. My 65 mm actually twisted the axle a few degrees before it snapped at the milled chuck flats. So sloooow, steady, controlled feed is crucial for these hole cutters. //The traveling steady is no big deal - just a winged-together piece out of junk for making few gear cutting hobs & worms, and perhaps even longer screws for my 7 x 14 "household" lathe's cross- & compound slide extension projects.
Throw away the drill bit supplied with each cutter. Drill a pilot hole with a good drill bit where you want the hole centre to be. Make a pilot spigot to fit the hole you drilled and insert that in the hole saw. You will need a different spigot for each size but you will get a better result Steve
For the price you could regard them as almost being disposable parts. Getting 5 holes out of each would be great, and probably best only in thinner sheet stock. Runout is not the greatest, but then again, when you cut a hole with a hole saw accuracy is pretty much the last thing on your mind, oversize will probably be to your advantage. Most common size I abuse is 20mm, and then mostly into plastic and thin steel. Have had to use 3 hole cutters to do 2 holes though, 50 year old panel steel that was almost impossible to drill through, eventually just friction drilled the last hole after breaking the arbor off making the pilot hole, just put force down on the drill and let 800W of AEG do it's thing. got the hole drilled, and the cutout welded to the hole cutter, had to wait 20 minutes for the steel to cool down enough not to melt the cable and gland.
@@tompas11A3n52KkX around 250 is what I found to be perfect for me.Those carbide inserts don't like shocks caused either by sudden temperature change or sudden engagement of work piece at high speed.Once you figure it out they are great.I kept breaking mine the same way as you did,but carbide is way different then HSS crows who can get away with dropping them at high speed like that.
I'm not a machinist by trade but have a bench top mill that I just recently used for cutting a hole through 1/2" aluminum plate. I picked up a Hercules brand arbor and 3" hole saw with similar design cutting teeth to those seen in the video. What I discovered immediately is that if my intent was to cut a 3" hole, the considerable width of the cutting teeth ~ 1/8" wide maybe a little more, was entirely too wide for the purpose on the 1hp mill. At 170 rpm it screeched like mad and produced fine slither shaped chips the same length as the blade width, that would make perfect metal splinters. I returned it, picked up the conventional narrower tooth width, bi-metal 3" hole saw that was much cheaper. I drilled a 5/16" chip clearing hole for the teeth and it chattered for about 3 seconds on cut start and then sliced right through. The only thing that would have made it better, is additional chip clearing holes.
Unless the cutout has a purpose, there's no need to stress the equipment by forcing it to cut a 1/8" wide, 360 degree groove when 1/16" will do. An additional note, the packaging did not show that the wider tooth saw was specified for any metal, it was vague in stating a few specifics and saying "Others". The hole saws here are probably perfect for anything but metal, the teeth are just too wide for it.
Well, you know you got to try, otherwise you don't know...
Muito Obrigado Estou coprando algumas ferramentas e precisei demonstração estou aqui no Brasil Fiquei muito contente . Deus te abençõe Waldi
Muito feliz que meu vídeo tenha ajudado você.
Hi again! Nice to see you up and working this year too! Thanks for your hole cutter tryout! Now, 500 rpm IS about twice as fast as a 50 mm hole cutter should be run in steel. Got my own set of these a few days back, and I cannot see the same inconsistent teeth workmanship or bad runout you show. Mine are all on dead center and with equal tooth height all thru. That said - I thought it was a good idea to take a 65 mm hole outta a 15 mm Al plate for a DIY following steady, so I put it up in our Arboga U 2508U mill/ drill, ran it at 204 rpm and fine fed the quill (if this mother digs in, run for cover!). All went absolutely fine half way thru, when the darned thing just snapped from the chuck. Reason: The break showed that the three chuck flats imposes high stress points (at that high torque) in the somewhat weak material (pretty big grains inside). So - feed them real slow in bigger diameters, have a rigid vise setup and a mill/ drill with some real torque. Keep up the good work! 2 cents from DIYSwede
Hi Johan, so you are making a follow rest. That's a bit down on my to do list. Thanks for good advise on the hole cutters :-)
@@tompas11A3n52KkX Seems like these cutter's teeth really want to hog in, as they have a cutting angle of about 15 degrees. My 65 mm actually twisted the axle a few degrees before it snapped at the milled chuck flats. So sloooow, steady, controlled feed is crucial for these hole cutters. //The traveling steady is no big deal - just a winged-together piece out of junk for making few gear cutting hobs & worms, and perhaps even longer screws for my 7 x 14 "household" lathe's cross- & compound slide extension projects.
Yes Johan the right way is to use low rpm and a steady feed, I will remember that when I use these cutters later on.
Looks like a lot of fun.
Yeah I had a great time ;-)
Some hole saws seem to be made better than others. If the price is good, i would use them.
The price is pretty low and if you trash one or two, no big deal. Thanks for watching and comment.
Throw away the drill bit supplied with each cutter. Drill a pilot hole with a good drill bit where you want the hole centre to be.
Make a pilot spigot to fit the hole you drilled and insert that in the hole saw. You will need a different spigot for each size but you will get a better result
Steve
Good idea Steve.
They are not for thick plate. 10 gage and thinner
Yes I guess you are right about that Doug. Thanks for watching.
Bruh what are you expecting for a free hole saw?
For the price you could regard them as almost being disposable parts. Getting 5 holes out of each would be great, and probably best only in thinner sheet stock. Runout is not the greatest, but then again, when you cut a hole with a hole saw accuracy is pretty much the last thing on your mind, oversize will probably be to your advantage. Most common size I abuse is 20mm, and then mostly into plastic and thin steel. Have had to use 3 hole cutters to do 2 holes though, 50 year old panel steel that was almost impossible to drill through, eventually just friction drilled the last hole after breaking the arbor off making the pilot hole, just put force down on the drill and let 800W of AEG do it's thing. got the hole drilled, and the cutout welded to the hole cutter, had to wait 20 minutes for the steel to cool down enough not to melt the cable and gland.
Thanks for watching SeanBZA.
Way to fast.Thats why you kept breaking them
Ok so what is the correct rpm?
@@tompas11A3n52KkX around 250 is what I found to be perfect for me.Those carbide inserts don't like shocks caused either by sudden temperature change or sudden engagement of work piece at high speed.Once you figure it out they are great.I kept breaking mine the same way as you did,but carbide is way different then HSS crows who can get away with dropping them at high speed like that.
@@gumelini1 As you can see in the video I changed the rpm from 500 to 290. Next step down is 190 on my machine.
@@tompas11A3n52KkX that should work