13 viewers now 😂😅. I find your videos the exact type I like. 0 background music, people who actually know the things they're talking about, first an expert secondary uploading to RUclips... Keep it going! I have 100 hours to watch.
Ha! Everyone at work looks at me weird when I used antiseize as drill/tap fluid. It works great. As an industrial electrician I'm typically drilling either sideways or straight up and the anti-seize stays where I want it. Glad to see someone else using it
Mr. Pete has a review on these also. Looked OK for occasional work, much more manageable than the larger machine as you would expect. Thanks for the video.
The terrible runout is due to the bearings. I bought a Vevor mag drill in December, which I tore apart because it had TERRIBLE runout. Almost an 1/8 inch of runout! So I tore it apart, thinking the quill shaft had to be bent, and that I would straighten it. But once I got it apart, which was very difficult, I had to drill out a square key that had been peened in place, I found that the shaft was perfect. (.001 total runout) So I ordered new (NSK brand) bearings that the shaft rides in, a small upper and a larger lower. I received the bearings last week and installed them yesterday. It looks way better to the naked eye, put the indicator on it, and it now has .007 total runout. PLENTY good enough for an annular cutter. So FYI: it's the cheap Chinese bearings causing the horrible runout.
I had one of the early models of this Vevor drill and it was virtually useless. The "bronze" bushing for the handle/pinon shaft completely disintegrated after about the fourth hole. Cobbled up a replacement out of some PVC of all things just to finish the last few holes then sent it back. These newer models, while still a far cry from a Hougen or Milwaukee, actually seem much better built. This model has adjustable gibs you could have snugged up to get it to hold position. Also, the venting on these cheap coolant bottles in generally pretty bad. Leaving the cap loose or off might get the oil to flow a little bit better. 100% agree about the quick-change system. Nice concept if it was industry standard. If you've already invested in annular cutters though, it's a no-go without some form of backwards compatibility. And lastly, I wish had I your skill at freehand drill sharpening.... very impressive. I've been practicing for 10years and I'm still atrocious at it. Great video!
Great review, how's yours holding up? after watching your review i just purchased mine, i'd say it's worth it, i had like $30.00 of cash back on amazon so i walked away with this mag drill and the kit of like 11 cutter bits for $201.00 cant beat that, most mag drills are like $1,500.00 lol
I've bought alot of things from vevor. They UPS stuff to Alaska .I ended up with 5 of the little diesel heaters,mag drill,hydralic press ,10x12 wall tent and lots more .I found them very good to deal with.Vevor makes others[mag drills] that are variable speed.
@@HOWEES I don't know yet.I haven't set up the tent yet and the diesel heaters I haven't used yet.I bought the heaters because they run off of 12 volts and plan on using one of them to preheat a 8 KW Kabota in my generator shack if I even need to fire it up in the cold.The little heaters are a copy of a much more expensive boat heater.Even the parts are interchangable.On those its important to note that the 5KW heater is the exact same heater[no difference ] than the 8KW heater.Some kind of marketing ploy.Most stuff is UPS to your front door[fairbanks area] for 30 bucks.The tent was 100 because it weighed in excess of 100 lbs with the poles.I bought a vise clamp that goes on my drill stand that works fine.They have all kinds of stuff.I notice the heaters are shipped out of ontario.Lots of guys on youtube reviewing the things they sell like you did with the mag drill.They are not stingy when it comes to sending stuff out to tradespeople for reviews with youtube followings.The little heaters are 150 bucks to your door.The more expensive boat heaters [wabasco]cost 5 times more.Those little heaters to a Alaskan are the cats MEOW!Many being used in ice fishing shacks ect.Very fuel friendly.You did a fair and thorough job on that Mag drill review.I haven't used mine yet.But if I use it upside down I will get out the anti seize!!
Late reply, but just a thought I had - Carlile has a service called MyConnect that allows you to get things ground-shipped to their warehouse in Tacoma and then shipped up to their Fairbanks location pretty cheap. I've used it some for ammo, but I also used it to ship up a 140lb roll of greenhouse plastic for a little over 45 bucks. Worth keeping in mind for the future! -Cameraman
When I first was faced with a task of line boring an old JD 410 the first thing I thought of was to get a mag drill. A Milwaukee was in the neighbour hood of $2500 if I recall correctly If you have tips and tricks on setting one up on that Vevor I’d love to see what you got. 👍👌✔️
You can drive a homemade lineboring setup with a mag drill but you will still need support bearing plates and a line bar that can be driven by the 3/4 weldon holder on this mag drill
Nice thing about the Milwaukee, you can turn the head over and drill up. More than once had to drill and tap a stamping press ram for dies that were wonky enough you couldn't use the tee slots.
You can buy a Morse Taper 3 to R32 collet chuck adapter to throw in the milwaukee. I have also used the Milwaukee to tap large holes with MT3 tap sleeves.
It follows the center punch or if your match drilling, you just stick it in the pre drilled hole in the mating part. I like the gibbs set a little loose to allow for some misalignment
I have operated $2,500 rotobroch units upside down on site and bench work , site work upside down -sideways, the safty is great. Probably wouldn't use if it didn't have the pin lock. But ya bench work , all day long on a bench, I spend 400 eat it up all day . Definitely prefer the cheap for shop work!
Good review But that machine was to be used mostly for Structural steel fabrication. I have drilled 10, S of thousands of holes but the best bits are Cobalt or Carbide. I have cut Hardox 400 with no problem AR plate . most holes are a clearance hole for bolts other than truck frames which should be drilled and reamed .
Had to replace my old black& decker mag drill i got in early 90's with a variable speed vevor and i like it so far The Tungsten carbide tipped cutters sim to be the way to go for me i like them thanks for the video
I would assume with a conscientious operator, the good bits will out last the junk chicom 10:1 between sharpening. I would also venture to say sharpening the chicom junk would be folly.
Others have said specifically that you need coolant here and that's the water soluble one. They say lubrication like your oil provides are not the main purpose of the tank here, but cooling is. If you had coolant running your bit would not have burnt. Generally at that speed I suppose the principle is the same as with CNCs and why oil is not usable with them. Care to elaborate why you think otherwise?
I bought one off Amazon. Came with no handles or the chuck that was supposed to be included. I decided to keep it and they gave me a rebate. Little I used it it seems OK, time will tell
Great Demo/Review Video on this unit. It's by far the best that I have seen yet and I've watched many. Looking to buy a Mag Drill within the next few days and had been looking hard at Vevor but I'm an Ex-Pat living in The Philippines and Vevor doesn't ship here. Too bad, as I'm interested in a lot of their gear even though most... if not all is just rebranded. Another problem is we use 220v here and most all I've seen of these are 110v. Heard they make some 220v's for Europe but don't have a source. Might have to get something from Amazon as they do ship here but again... it's a 110v VS 220v issue. Beyond that... because lately shipping couriers are getting sloppy with how they are handling equipment I prefer to pay c.o.d.. That way if it's toast when it arrives I just tell them to take it back right on the spot and save myself all of the return/refund drama. All of this said... Thumbs Up & Subscribed !
The handle is easily interchangeable. You have to back the drill up all the way then the handle will slip out and install on the other side like all the other ones
Yes, and if the frame is Aluminum, clamp a steel plate to the frame first, then put the magnet on that plate, use at least a 1/2" thick plate for good holding.
Very interesting thanks for sharing 👍. I'm not an engineer but I sometimes find myself drilling railway track with my mag drill, dose anyone know what type steel this is? What type of cutter would be best for the job? Thanks
The annular cutters were working very well at bringing out the chips & I probably backed off much more than needed. It was needed at the end of the 12mm hole, as I was cutting deeper than the flutes. I will probably modify my use of this type cutter as time goes on & not back off all the time. I have only had minor experience with annular cutters in the past, so as a specific tool, I am still learning about these.
I like how you measure the most important measurements. Runout and rack play. Like anything from china , it's not going to have Germany or swiss tolerances. I can tell that you wish vevor gave you the variable speed with reverse
These can also take a Jacobs chuck, no? I might want to use it for tapping, where reverse is nice. Yes I put taps in chucks, so sue me... Git 'er done!
The annular cutters do not like a light feed rate, it'll burn them up in a heartbeat. Crank it in there and flood it with coolant. Old dawn dishwashing detergent bottles work well. Your arms should be tired at the end of the day! Or get in a position where you can use your foot to feed it😂 hard to do off of a 16' ladder. And now the safety chode would freak out if he saw me on a 2x6 i cut to fit in the chains on the aux hook of the crane to suspended myself to run down the top of the job to punch hundreds of holes with a Hougan punch.
These are hardly ever used vertically. That coolant tank looks pretty useless. Mostly horizontally, sometimes upside down. Best to have a nylon strap on them loosely hooked to the crane for when they inevitability pop off.
That drill has allot of run-out. I see they have an upgraded version but its still a very small drill with little vertical stroke. No comparison to a Milwaukee. Some things from Vevor are OK and others are not even is good as Harbor freight (which have decent tools). If you have issue with their products you deal with someone in China so responses to issues come in at night but at east they respond.
Never too old to earn new tricks - the typical machinist could at least know that an inch is 25.4mm (exactly) - ie. 15mm is a little over half an inch (0.591") and 30mm is a little under 1-1/4 (1.181") inches.. Enjoy the freerange riffing - it seems honest. International appeal. (Fortunately I live in a country - and have exposure to both metric and imperial, I don't really understand anyone in the modern world - in a technical capacity, not having some working knowledge. Sometimes I sometimes design items around the Imperial measurement, and just dimension it using metric conversions (automotive accessories - which are absolutely inch carryovers from the olden days), I may as well design in Inches (though the machining will be in metric - SW is easy to parameterise the dimensioning.)
Runs way too fast to suit me. Slower speeds would require more torque which would require a beefier motor which would add to the expense. Old adage holds true…..You get what you pay for.
Vevor... An F rating complete with a warning straight from the BBB. BBB, an organization that is notoriously pro business. Over 400 complaints this year alone. Vevor gives people products in exchange for their credibility. So tell me. What is your word worth to you? A drill?
13 viewers now 😂😅. I find your videos the exact type I like. 0 background music, people who actually know the things they're talking about, first an expert secondary uploading to RUclips... Keep it going! I have 100 hours to watch.
Ha! Everyone at work looks at me weird when I used antiseize as drill/tap fluid. It works great. As an industrial electrician I'm typically drilling either sideways or straight up and the anti-seize stays where I want it. Glad to see someone else using it
Mr. Pete has a review on these also. Looked OK for occasional work, much more manageable than the larger machine as you would expect. Thanks for the video.
The terrible runout is due to the bearings. I bought a Vevor mag drill in December, which I tore apart because it had TERRIBLE runout. Almost an 1/8 inch of runout! So I tore it apart, thinking the quill shaft had to be bent, and that I would straighten it. But once I got it apart, which was very difficult, I had to drill out a square key that had been peened in place, I found that the shaft was perfect. (.001 total runout) So I ordered new (NSK brand) bearings that the shaft rides in, a small upper and a larger lower. I received the bearings last week and installed them yesterday. It looks way better to the naked eye, put the indicator on it, and it now has .007 total runout. PLENTY good enough for an annular cutter. So FYI: it's the cheap Chinese bearings causing the horrible runout.
Nice video. To the point with lots of information.
I had one of the early models of this Vevor drill and it was virtually useless. The "bronze" bushing for the handle/pinon shaft completely disintegrated after about the fourth hole. Cobbled up a replacement out of some PVC of all things just to finish the last few holes then sent it back. These newer models, while still a far cry from a Hougen or Milwaukee, actually seem much better built. This model has adjustable gibs you could have snugged up to get it to hold position. Also, the venting on these cheap coolant bottles in generally pretty bad. Leaving the cap loose or off might get the oil to flow a little bit better. 100% agree about the quick-change system. Nice concept if it was industry standard. If you've already invested in annular cutters though, it's a no-go without some form of backwards compatibility.
And lastly, I wish had I your skill at freehand drill sharpening.... very impressive. I've been practicing for 10years and I'm still atrocious at it. Great video!
Things i would check would be how well the magnet held when *hot* and how well it stood up to full load at a high duty cycle.
Great review, how's yours holding up? after watching your review i just purchased mine, i'd say it's worth it, i had like $30.00 of cash back on amazon so i walked away with this mag drill and the kit of like 11 cutter bits for $201.00 cant beat that, most mag drills are like $1,500.00 lol
I've bought alot of things from vevor. They UPS stuff to Alaska .I ended up with 5 of the little diesel heaters,mag drill,hydralic press ,10x12 wall tent and lots more .I found them very good to deal with.Vevor makes others[mag drills] that are variable speed.
How do you like the diesel heaters and wall tents?
@@HOWEES I don't know yet.I haven't set up the tent yet and the diesel heaters I haven't used yet.I bought the heaters because they run off of 12 volts and plan on using one of them to preheat a 8 KW Kabota in my generator shack if I even need to fire it up in the cold.The little heaters are a copy of a much more expensive boat heater.Even the parts are interchangable.On those its important to note that the 5KW heater is the exact same heater[no difference ] than the 8KW heater.Some kind of marketing ploy.Most stuff is UPS to your front door[fairbanks area] for 30 bucks.The tent was 100 because it weighed in excess of 100 lbs with the poles.I bought a vise clamp that goes on my drill stand that works fine.They have all kinds of stuff.I notice the heaters are shipped out of ontario.Lots of guys on youtube reviewing the things they sell like you did with the mag drill.They are not stingy when it comes to sending stuff out to tradespeople for reviews with youtube followings.The little heaters are 150 bucks to your door.The more expensive boat heaters [wabasco]cost 5 times more.Those little heaters to a Alaskan are the cats MEOW!Many being used in ice fishing shacks ect.Very fuel friendly.You did a fair and thorough job on that Mag drill review.I haven't used mine yet.But if I use it upside down I will get out the anti seize!!
Late reply, but just a thought I had - Carlile has a service called MyConnect that allows you to get things ground-shipped to their warehouse in Tacoma and then shipped up to their Fairbanks location pretty cheap. I've used it some for ammo, but I also used it to ship up a 140lb roll of greenhouse plastic for a little over 45 bucks. Worth keeping in mind for the future!
-Cameraman
@@HOWEES Thank you!! I'll keep that in mind.
Thanks for the honest review seeing a new item being reviewed by someone who speaks his mind is great
😮
When I first was faced with a task of line boring an old JD 410 the first thing I thought of was to get a mag drill. A Milwaukee was in the neighbour hood of $2500 if I recall correctly
If you have tips and tricks on setting one up on that Vevor I’d love to see what you got. 👍👌✔️
You can drive a homemade lineboring setup with a mag drill but you will still need support bearing plates and a line bar that can be driven by the 3/4 weldon holder on this mag drill
Yeah... Find a business to come out and actually line bore your project. But you won't... you use emojis.
Nice thing about the Milwaukee, you can turn the head over and drill up. More than once had to drill and tap a stamping press ram for dies that were wonky enough you couldn't use the tee slots.
what cutting oil did you use?
We used them to drill truck chassis, sometimes right through the label that said, Do not drill through the frame.
You can buy a Morse Taper 3 to R32 collet chuck adapter to throw in the milwaukee. I have also used the Milwaukee to tap large holes with MT3 tap sleeves.
It follows the center punch or if your match drilling, you just stick it in the pre drilled hole in the mating part. I like the gibbs set a little loose to allow for some misalignment
I have operated $2,500 rotobroch units upside down on site and bench work , site work upside down -sideways, the safty is great. Probably wouldn't use if it didn't have the pin lock.
But ya bench work , all day long on a bench, I spend 400 eat it up all day . Definitely prefer the cheap for shop work!
Good review But that machine was to be used mostly for Structural steel fabrication.
I have drilled 10, S of thousands of holes but the best bits are Cobalt or Carbide.
I have cut Hardox 400 with no problem AR plate . most holes are a clearance hole
for bolts other than truck frames which should be drilled and reamed .
Had to replace my old black& decker mag drill i got in early 90's with a variable speed vevor and i like it so far The
Tungsten carbide tipped cutters sim to be the way to go for me i like them thanks for the video
Could u do some set up an trouble shooting a suit case one a engine drive I never have luck with mine
I think the line for the oil needs to be coming out of the left side in order for it to flow properly, the reservoir basket is sloped/angled that way.
After few months how's the drill holding up? Thanks
We've punched hundreds of thousands of holes with Hougun drills. To match drill during assembly.
yes. some of the "safety" switches I have found are more dangerous than the simple old trigger
I would assume with a conscientious operator, the good bits will out last the junk chicom 10:1 between sharpening. I would also venture to say sharpening the chicom junk would be folly.
Where in the U.S. are the repair facilities for these seemingly nice mag drills?
They all garbage !!
Others have said specifically that you need coolant here and that's the water soluble one. They say lubrication like your oil provides are not the main purpose of the tank here, but cooling is. If you had coolant running your bit would not have burnt. Generally at that speed I suppose the principle is the same as with CNCs and why oil is not usable with them. Care to elaborate why you think otherwise?
I just did a video on this : ruclips.net/video/sgouoh42Ezg/видео.html&lc=UgxT4a92OzUmWtN24CJ4AaABAg
Coolant is best for annular cutters. Simply call the manufacturer there is no argument
I bought one off Amazon. Came with no handles or the chuck that was supposed to be included. I decided to keep it and they gave me a rebate. Little I used it it seems OK, time will tell
Would you need a variable speed version. Thinking I would prefer the cutters over variable speed. Thoughts?
Just saw this today, I would rather have the variable speed, as you can buy a bit you need separately, but the variable speed will help in all cases.
I bend a piece of sheet steel around the handle that i can slide into the rack to hold it up.
The label on the side of the drill says Fried dough twist drill diameter.
Great Demo/Review Video on this unit. It's by far the best that I have seen yet and I've watched many. Looking to buy a Mag Drill within the next few days and had been looking hard at Vevor but I'm an Ex-Pat living in The Philippines and Vevor doesn't ship here. Too bad, as I'm interested in a lot of their gear even though most... if not all is just rebranded. Another problem is we use 220v here and most all I've seen of these are 110v. Heard they make some 220v's for Europe but don't have a source. Might have to get something from Amazon as they do ship here but again... it's a 110v VS 220v issue. Beyond that... because lately shipping couriers are getting sloppy with how they are handling equipment I prefer to pay c.o.d.. That way if it's toast when it arrives I just tell them to take it back right on the spot and save myself all of the return/refund drama. All of this said... Thumbs Up & Subscribed !
Vevor sell through Australia 240 volt system
The handle is easily interchangeable. You have to back the drill up all the way then the handle will slip out and install on the other side like all the other ones
Do uou think this would work good to drill holes in a semi truck frame rails
Yes, and if the frame is Aluminum, clamp a steel plate to the frame first, then put the magnet on that plate, use at least a 1/2" thick plate for good holding.
@HOWEES it is a steel frame so the mag should hold good for the price ya can't go wrong
Thank you
Very interesting thanks for sharing 👍. I'm not an engineer but I sometimes find myself drilling railway track with my mag drill, dose anyone know what type steel this is? What type of cutter would be best for the job? Thanks
Manual says not to clear chips, that it encourages chips to fall underneath the cutter. The flutes should carry them out anyways, right?
The annular cutters were working very well at bringing out the chips & I probably backed off much more than needed. It was needed at the end of the 12mm hole, as I was cutting deeper than the flutes. I will probably modify my use of this type cutter as time goes on & not back off all the time. I have only had minor experience with annular cutters in the past, so as a specific tool, I am still learning about these.
@@HOWEES copy that, this was as much of a question as a statement. I didn't realize your cut was past the flutes depth.
Why does it say angular cutter instead of annular*?
I like how you measure the most important measurements. Runout and rack play. Like anything from china , it's not going to have Germany or swiss tolerances. I can tell that you wish vevor gave you the variable speed with reverse
Reverse on an annular cutter would be senseless
These can also take a Jacobs chuck, no? I might want to use it for tapping, where reverse is nice. Yes I put taps in chucks, so sue me... Git 'er done!
Part is hub seal/bearing retainer
Subscribed
If it were me I would tighten the chuck in each hole.
Ha, you forgot the pin and slug ejector. It should eject the slug quite a ways.
The annular cutters do not like a light feed rate, it'll burn them up in a heartbeat. Crank it in there and flood it with coolant. Old dawn dishwashing detergent bottles work well. Your arms should be tired at the end of the day! Or get in a position where you can use your foot to feed it😂 hard to do off of a 16' ladder.
And now the safety chode would freak out if he saw me on a 2x6 i cut to fit in the chains on the aux hook of the crane to suspended myself to run down the top of the job to punch hundreds of holes with a Hougan punch.
These are hardly ever used vertically. That coolant tank looks pretty useless. Mostly horizontally, sometimes upside down. Best to have a nylon strap on them loosely hooked to the crane for when they inevitability pop off.
Cap for a rubber shock absorber
Just had to show it your wrench before it would start oiling
If Ave and bubbles had a baby.
That drill has allot of run-out. I see they have an upgraded version but its still a very small drill with little vertical stroke. No comparison to a Milwaukee. Some things from Vevor are OK and others are not even is good as Harbor freight (which have decent tools). If you have issue with their products you deal with someone in China so responses to issues come in at night but at east they respond.
"MorrisTaper" eh inspector morse taper lol😅
You’re not supposed to say they’re sharp until AFTER you cut yourself. It just isn’t done.
Never too old to earn new tricks - the typical machinist could at least know that an inch is 25.4mm (exactly) - ie. 15mm is a little over half an inch (0.591") and 30mm is a little under 1-1/4 (1.181") inches.. Enjoy the freerange riffing - it seems honest. International appeal.
(Fortunately I live in a country - and have exposure to both metric and imperial, I don't really understand anyone in the modern world - in a technical capacity, not having some working knowledge. Sometimes I sometimes design items around the Imperial measurement, and just dimension it using metric conversions (automotive accessories - which are absolutely inch carryovers from the olden days), I may as well design in Inches (though the machining will be in metric - SW is easy to parameterise the dimensioning.)
Emulsje rozrabia się z wodą !!
Just about every tool like th😂se need to be rebuilt right out of the box.
im 14 then
]
Runs way too fast to suit me. Slower speeds would require more torque which would require a beefier motor which would add to the expense. Old adage holds true…..You get what you pay for.
Slower speed requires deeper gear reduction, which means less power needed.
Vevor... An F rating complete with a warning straight from the BBB. BBB, an organization that is notoriously pro business. Over 400 complaints this year alone. Vevor gives people products in exchange for their credibility.
So tell me. What is your word worth to you? A drill?
Mabey the under on the cutter is ment to make up for the run out over .
YAY I FOUND YOUR NON DIMINUTIVE LENGTHS VIDS🧲👍💕