danke für den Kommentar. Deutschland!! Ich habe gerade eine Geschichte Europas nach dem Zweiten Weltkrieg beendet. Sie wurden ungefähr zur Zeit der deutschen Einheit geboren.
You're home and shop are in a beautiful setting. That's a nice shop and having a recliner in there is brilliant. You're Model A looks brand new. I'm new to the Model A scene and yours is the first I've seen with amber lenses in the cowl lights. The amber looks good and I like that they show up better in bad weather. Good clear video of the trans removal, a real nice job. I'm saving this for a reference. Thank you.
Well Done George great video I especially like the 2X4 method of lowering the transmission I work by myself too and will remember that if I have to take my transmission out sometime . One tip I have is to look for one of the old battery carrying straps that slip onto the battery terminals I found one at a garage sale for a dollar this makes battery removal and installation much easier . Bob in Michigan
Have been dealing with Model A's since 1976. Feel George has the best Model A "how to" videos on the web. George showed how to remove the transmission by dropping the rear end. The transmission can also be removed by pulling the engine and transmission. Pulling the engine and transmission does not involve dealing with the rear spring, which can be dangerous. However, when reinstalling the engine/transmission the frame may have to be pried apart so the engine will fit into the rear engine mounts. Either way, in my opinion, this is a pain.
good clear descriptions, clean video editing, informative, good pace, smooth transitions, clear video (even at 720p), and gotta love the hat! ..."thumbs up"
Thank you for this, I just finished getting my transmission out a few minutes ago and this helped. I will say I tried to take a "shortcut" by leaving in the bar that connects all of the brake rods. I wish I hadn't as I got my transmission stuck in it for a long time. I'll be taking it out before I put it back in for sure.
@@georgebell7103 I've already watched them all about 10 times. I'm also going to get some help from club members. I of course have the big red book, but I'm primarily a hands on learner so these are great for me.
@@georgebell7103 Thanks George, I am going through the series. Nice presentation. I have owned lots of 1960;s-1980's cars but never a Model A. Love them though. Maybe one day.
@@georgebell7103 , maybe one day. I might even entertain a Shay model A, but price wise, might be better to stick with the real thing. And more parts available for the actual Model A.
FYI: ALL stock Model A transmissions "whine" in second gear (and first). They are ALL "hard to shift" if you don't know how to do it properly or the shift tower or forks are worn. Also, when you pull the rear end, it is much easier and safer to first jack up the rear of the Model A with a floor jack under the banjo housing and place some jack stands under the frame just ahead of the radius rods. Remove the brake rods from the cross arms near the middle of the car. Remove the upper ends of the shock mounts. Remove the upper and lower clamshell u-joint covers. Next, remove the spare tire (if rear mounted), and remove the cotter pins and 4 nuts from the spring mounts. Slowly lower the floor jack and the rear end will drop right out. Now, just roll the rear end out from under the Model A, keeping the spring attached to the perches. For safety, put a c-clamp in the middle of the spring in case the bolt lets go.
Thanks for your comment. I should have perhaps said excessive wine in second gear. You can view the other videos in this series to see what issues were found in the transmission
@@georgebell7103 My first car was a 30 coupe. I was 14. It had a howl in second gear. I believe that I read in the model A restorers magazine??? that the front motor mount can cause the howl. If this was true back in the early 60's, you might want to make sure your front motor mount is set up right. If not, perhaps your rebuilt transmission will not last as it should.
@@robdoe2420 thanks for the comment. As it turned out the issue was pitted gears in the transmission... it is a good idea to make sure the motor mounts are tight.
@@georgebell7103 Even if i found myself one, i bet it will cost to much for Me. :) Im kind a disabled, i can walk and do everything, but not work for long, i have heart problems , i need the third operation already, hard life, hard life, but i would lov eto see and drive one of the model A :)
Good job George, looks like you had to give it a lot if thought to getting it out with safety in mind while working alone, well help from your bumble bees. That along with the putting it back in are the hardest part. Now the easy and fun part.
Very much enjoyed your older gentleman logic and visual & monologue presentation. From what educated vocation and skilled trades have you retired from. Resume s.v.p.
Great video George. I am currently removing the transmission in my 1931 Woody wagon and would like more detail on the 2x4 method of lowering the tranny. I could not determine how you connected the threaded rods to the bell housing and trans to lower both safely. I am assuming you use the same process to raise and install the rebuilt transmission. You talked about an installation video but I cannot locate one on the channel. Thanks, this has been very helpful. George S in Mass.
ANOTHER WAY IS TO JACK UP REAR OF CAR SO WHEELS ARE 12" OFF OF GROUND. REMOVE ALL BRAKE RODS ETC., CLUTCH BRAKE THE SAME, UNCOUPLE U JOINT, REMOVE REAR WHEELS, PLACE FLOOR JACK UNDER REAR END, REMOVE U BOLTS THAT HOLD LEAF SPRING TO CROSS MEMBER, LOWER REAR END WITH SPRING TO FLOOR AND ROLL OUT BACK. THEN REMOVE TRANS AS SHOWN THIS VIDEO. THANKS
Thanks for the wonderful video. I’ve done Mcanick work all my life and I am at the point where I’m 75 years old and I am going to go through some of the same aches and pains that you have in the past two days.
Thanks for the comment. I think that is possible, but then the spring would need to be removed from the frame, which is more difficult, or at least difficult for me, because I have never done it.
Since you have to remove the rear axel, would you recommend going through it as well before reinstalling it to the rebuilt transmission? How often should you have to do this? Great video.
I think that depends on the car. In a total restoration, sure a fellow needs to go through everything. Don’t really know how long a rebuild will last. A rebuilt transmission maintained well ought to last north of 60,000 miles I would think. For sure longer than I will own the car.
Hello George - at 8:15 you remove the front radial ball assembly. I'm doing an engine swap today on my 1931 Model A truck and all has gone well, except that the two bolts on the Radial Ball assembly are turning when I try to ratchet off the nuts. How do I keep the bolts from turning? Since the engine that I'm removing has a cracked block, I've just about decided to use a sawzall to cut the bolts off - the new engine has the bolts, so no problem. I'm removing the engine tomorrow morning one way or the other. Mike
Thanks for the comment. There is a 1/8 th pin inside the housing that retains the two bolts. This pin must be broken or somehow removed. I think you have a good plan, just cut them off and replace the bolts. Check out the other videos in this series, you may find them helpful. Here is my email if you want to talk further... PargoLongAgo@Yahoo.com
Hello George - Thanks for the prompt response. I decided to use the sawzall to cut the bolts. It worked like a champ and the engine was then free to come out. I have a 1928 replacement engine that was in a show car - running well (not my car). The new owner of that car decided to make a hot rod out of it and removed the 100% perfect original engine and transmission, and gave it to me. The engine is super clean and it urns over with ease on the engine stand. I'll install it next weekend. Mike
The clutch is not very expensive. The hard part is getting to the clutch… you will need to remove the transmission as described in this video…. Contact a local club, they can help you out
Those old cars are beautiful to watch , they like having a soul in them. Thank you 🙏
High regards from southern Germany from a 29 year old
danke für den Kommentar. Deutschland!!
Ich habe gerade eine Geschichte Europas nach dem Zweiten Weltkrieg beendet. Sie wurden ungefähr zur Zeit der deutschen Einheit geboren.
The way you lowered the trans down was sweet.
Hey, thanks
I was also impressed with the leaf spring expansion tool. Sweet trick!
@@wilkesjournal thanks
You're home and shop are in a beautiful setting. That's a nice shop and having a recliner in there is brilliant. You're Model A looks brand new. I'm new to the Model A scene and yours is the first I've seen with amber lenses in the cowl lights. The amber looks good and I like that they show up better in bad weather. Good clear video of the trans removal, a real nice job.
I'm saving this for a reference. Thank you.
Thanks for the comment. Check the other videos in this transmission series. You may enjoy them as well
@@georgebell7103 Thank you. I've subscribed.
@@discerningmind thanks
Well Done George great video I especially like the 2X4 method of lowering the transmission I work by myself too and will remember that if I have to take my transmission out sometime . One tip I have is to look for one of the old battery carrying straps that slip onto the battery terminals I found one at a garage sale for a dollar this makes battery removal and installation much easier . Bob in Michigan
Thanks for the comment Bob, I have recently purchased a battery lifting device for next time.
Hi George! These videos have been perfect to watch as I am about to dig into replacing the transmission on my 31 Model A!
Yes, they should be. Thanks for the comment, and good luck
Have been dealing with Model A's since 1976. Feel George has the best Model A "how to" videos on the web. George showed how to remove the transmission by dropping the rear end. The transmission can also be removed by pulling the engine and transmission. Pulling the engine and transmission does not involve dealing with the rear spring, which can be dangerous. However, when reinstalling the engine/transmission the frame may have to be pried apart so the engine will fit into the rear engine mounts. Either way, in my opinion, this is a pain.
Thanks for the nice comment
good clear descriptions, clean video editing, informative, good pace, smooth transitions, clear video (even at 720p), and gotta love the hat! ..."thumbs up"
Hey, thanks for the nice comment, not my best hat but a nice one
Thanks. Great job. Appreciate all your expert work.
Thanks for the nice comment
When you said it's 12 degrees I had to make some coffee and warm up.. Great car, good video. Wish I had one of those Model T's.
Thanks for your comment... Model A fords are a great hobby, stay warm. Contact your local club, they will fix you up.
What a great video and car thanks for filming it . All the best from Northeast England
Thanks for the comment. England!!
Another great video Mr. Bell
Hey, thanks
Thank you for this, I just finished getting my transmission out a few minutes ago and this helped. I will say I tried to take a "shortcut" by leaving in the bar that connects all of the brake rods. I wish I hadn't as I got my transmission stuck in it for a long time. I'll be taking it out before I put it back in for sure.
Hey, thanks for the comment. Check out the other videos in this series, you may find them helpful
@@georgebell7103 I've already watched them all about 10 times. I'm also going to get some help from club members. I of course have the big red book, but I'm primarily a hands on learner so these are great for me.
@@zachdonaldson4400 well great, glad you liked the video series
George; Thanks for this video!!! I need to do take out the bell housing of my 29!! Aurelio from Brazil
Thank you Aurelio for the comment. Check out the other videos in the series, you may find them helpful...Brazil!!
Very nice step by step video of the transmission removal!
Thanks for the comment. You must be working your way through the series
@@georgebell7103 Thanks George, I am going through the series. Nice presentation. I have owned lots of 1960;s-1980's cars but never a Model A. Love them though. Maybe one day.
@@unclemarksdiyauto gotta get one
@@georgebell7103 , maybe one day. I might even entertain a Shay model A, but price wise, might be better to stick with the real thing. And more parts available for the actual Model A.
Excellent videos. Thank you vary much.
Thanks
FYI: ALL stock Model A transmissions "whine" in second gear (and first). They are ALL "hard to shift" if you don't know how to do it properly or the shift tower or forks are worn.
Also, when you pull the rear end, it is much easier and safer to first jack up the rear of the Model A with a floor jack under the banjo housing and place some jack stands under the frame just ahead of the radius rods. Remove the brake rods from the cross arms near the middle of the car. Remove the upper ends of the shock mounts. Remove the upper and lower clamshell u-joint covers. Next, remove the spare tire (if rear mounted), and remove the cotter pins and 4 nuts from the spring mounts. Slowly lower the floor jack and the rear end will drop right out. Now, just roll the rear end out from under the Model A, keeping the spring attached to the perches. For safety, put a c-clamp in the middle of the spring in case the bolt lets go.
Thanks for your comment. I should have perhaps said excessive wine in second gear. You can view the other videos in this series to see what issues were found in the transmission
@@georgebell7103 My first car was a 30 coupe. I was 14. It had a howl in second gear. I believe that I read in the model A restorers magazine??? that the front motor mount can cause the howl. If this was true back in the early 60's, you might want to make sure your front motor mount is set up right. If not, perhaps your rebuilt transmission will not last as it should.
@@robdoe2420 thanks for the comment. As it turned out the issue was pitted gears in the transmission... it is a good idea to make sure the motor mounts are tight.
That's a lovely shop
Thanks, it is nice
what a great video, i never had seen this car in real life or in this detail before, love it.
Thanks for the comment, it is a great hobby, you need to find yourself a Model A
@@georgebell7103 Even if i found myself one, i bet it will cost to much for Me. :)
Im kind a disabled, i can walk and do everything, but not work for long, i have heart problems , i need the third operation already, hard life, hard life, but i would lov eto see and drive one of the model A :)
@@krisraps if you were to contact a local Model A club, someone would be happy to give you a ride and even show you how to drive it. take care
Nice Job George.
From Argentina. Congratulations
Thanks for the comment, check out the other videos in this series. Argentina!
Thank you for your well done and informative videos. Love your workshop.
Thanks Jim, I appreciate the nice comment
Nice old Ford. Great work!
Thanks
What an informative video and a beautiful car. Thanks for sharing it.
Thanks for the nice comment... check out the other videos in this series
Good job George, looks like you had to give it a lot if thought to getting it out with safety in mind while working alone, well help from your bumble bees. That along with the putting it back in are the hardest part. Now the easy and fun part.
thanks
If I had have this knowledge in the 60 I could do that job more easily , beautiful
Thank you for your comment
Nifty tool for holding the spring in place
Thanks
I put, in floor heat and love it during our Wisconsin winters..
Nice, Close by in Wisconsin
What a luxury of video and person you are teacher George Bell
Thanks for your comment
Parabéns pelo Ford, é lindo.
Sou do Brasil, e estou fazendo o mesmo em um 1929.
Obrigado pelo seu comentário. Boa sorte na sua reconstrução da transmissão. confira os outros vídeos desta série. Eles podem ser úteis. Brazil!!
@@georgebell7103 veja no meu canal alguns veículos que já trabalhei. Abraço e parabéns. Precisamos de mais pessoas como você no mundo!
@@valpvinhedo3335 Obrigado pelas suas palavras gentis
Starts and runs well....a really cool model A. lol no pun intended.
Thanks for your comment
Very much enjoyed your older gentleman logic and visual & monologue presentation.
From what educated vocation and skilled trades have you retired from. Resume s.v.p.
Thanks for the comment. I am a retired CPA. Worked as as the CFO for an Electric Utility in Minnesota
I really like the slide handle locks on your double doors. What are they called and where did you buy them?
The big double doors on the shop are all custom made by me. They are nice and handy
Great video George. I am currently removing the transmission in my 1931 Woody wagon and would like more detail on the 2x4 method of lowering the tranny. I could not determine how you connected the threaded rods to the bell housing and trans to lower both safely. I am assuming you use the same process to raise and install the rebuilt transmission. You talked about an installation video but I cannot locate one on the channel. Thanks, this has been very helpful. George S in Mass.
Yeah, I have not yet done the install video. I simply bolted a piece of wood in the bell housing. Used that to attach the drill rod. Good luck
Only used one drill rod putting the transmission back in, using two was fine, but using only one worked a little better
ANOTHER WAY IS TO JACK UP REAR OF CAR SO WHEELS ARE 12" OFF OF GROUND. REMOVE ALL BRAKE RODS ETC., CLUTCH BRAKE THE SAME, UNCOUPLE U JOINT, REMOVE REAR WHEELS, PLACE FLOOR JACK UNDER REAR END, REMOVE U BOLTS THAT HOLD LEAF SPRING TO CROSS MEMBER, LOWER REAR END WITH SPRING TO FLOOR AND ROLL OUT BACK. THEN REMOVE TRANS AS SHOWN THIS VIDEO. THANKS
Always other ways to accomplish a goal. Thanks for your comment
For the rear shocks, easier to just remove the arms from the shock bodies.
Yes, thanks for your comment
When will the video showing the replacement of the transmission be available? Thanks for informative videos!
Soon
I’m pretty sure I have to do this very process. I have a bearing, making a noise. I’m not sure if it’s in the driveshaft or transmission.
Thanks for the wonderful video. I’ve done Mcanick work all my life and I am at the point where I’m 75 years old and I am going to go through some of the same aches and pains that you have in the past two days.
@@lewismills2620 Thanks for the comment. Check out the other videos in this series. You may find them helpful before you start work on your car.
Outstanding!
Thanks for the comment. Take a look at the other videos in this “Transmission” series, you may like them as well
Nice video! I thought you could remove the rear end with the spring attached.
Thanks for the comment. I think that is possible, but then the spring would need to be removed from the frame, which is more difficult, or at least difficult for me, because I have never done it.
Wow good video!!!
Hey, thanks for the comment
@@georgebell7103 l hope your videos will be around for future generations well done.
Thanks, that’s kind of why I did them.
Since you have to remove the rear axel, would you recommend going through it as well before reinstalling it to the rebuilt transmission? How often should you have to do this? Great video.
I think that depends on the car. In a total restoration, sure a fellow needs to go through everything. Don’t really know how long a rebuild will last. A rebuilt transmission maintained well ought to last north of 60,000 miles I would think. For sure longer than I will own the car.
Hello George - at 8:15 you remove the front radial ball assembly. I'm doing an engine swap today on my 1931 Model A truck and all has gone well, except that the two bolts on the Radial Ball assembly are turning when I try to ratchet off the nuts. How do I keep the bolts from turning? Since the engine that I'm removing has a cracked block, I've just about decided to use a sawzall to cut the bolts off - the new engine has the bolts, so no problem. I'm removing the engine tomorrow morning one way or the other. Mike
Thanks for the comment. There is a 1/8 th pin inside the housing that retains the two bolts. This pin must be broken or somehow removed. I think you have a good plan, just cut them off and replace the bolts. Check out the other videos in this series, you may find them helpful. Here is my email if you want to talk further... PargoLongAgo@Yahoo.com
Hello George - Thanks for the prompt response. I decided to use the sawzall to cut the bolts. It worked like a champ and the engine was then free to come out. I have a 1928 replacement engine that was in a show car - running well (not my car). The new owner of that car decided to make a hot rod out of it and removed the 100% perfect original engine and transmission, and gave it to me. The engine is super clean and it urns over with ease on the engine stand. I'll install it next weekend. Mike
it has straight cut gears
Yes it does
The cost to replace clutch I am thinking of buying a 1930 model a but the owner says it need a clutch thanks steve
The clutch is not very expensive. The hard part is getting to the clutch… you will need to remove the transmission as described in this video…. Contact a local club, they can help you out
Send me an email if you want to discuss. Pargolongago@yahoo.com
Just wondering. Did you use the wood frame set up to reinstall the Bell Housing and Transmission? Cannot find the installation video.
Yes I did
Well done, George. I've now watched all 4 transmission videos and have added them to the VIDEOS page of the MAFCA website - www.mafca.com/videos.html
Hey thanks. I am honored and pleased you liked them and thought they would be helpful for others
@@georgebell7103 You did a great job of explaining the procedures. And your videography was superb! Are from Wisconsin?
@@mafcawebmaster4237 Yes, I live in Hudson, Just across the river from St Paul / Minneapolis MN. I belong to the Twin Cities Model A club.
@@georgebell7103 I thought so (googled you). I'd like to add your home town to the page. Thanks.
@@mafcawebmaster4237 Sure, sounds good.