Jason's Mystery Reef Problem
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 13 янв 2025
- Sometimes reefing challenges us. It challenges us all, even veteran Reefer Jason who recently reached out to see if I could come take a look at his tank and see if there is anything obvious he is doing to cause his SPS to lack the colour and growth that it had just a few months prior.
What did I do?
I managed to convince him to let me film our conversation and share it on RUclips to see if anyone out there has a good suggestion on things to look into to solve the mystery!
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
I think seeing this "other direction" is equally important as showing tanks at there best.
First, it set's expectations for the community. If they/we only ever see perfect, our unrealistic expectations will be perfection and anything less unacceptable. Which is not a healthy state for the hobby.
Second, troubleshooting problems are often the most informative and helpful content in the hobby. I learn a ton from watching a reefer describe how they keep a healthy reef tank. But I learn far more from hearing which problems they've encountered and how they overcame or managed it. Those are the real gems.
Appreciate the feedback! I was hoping the video would be of use to a lot of reefers and equally, the comments and suggestions here.
Hopefully is a style of video I can make more of!
Sam, this type of subject I want to see from you, this will really help us to navigate through our reefing journey. Thanks
Thank you for the feedback! Will see if I can find more willing participants in the future!
Hey figuring out an issue like this can certainly be frustrating, especially if you've narrowed down a lot! Hopefully we can help you out :) Here's an experience I had with my tank.
- Run another ICP, see if anything is out of whack on the next. Definitely agree that ICP can sometimes be inconsistent. My first icp when I was having issues showed everything being good then eventually would show elevated tin, zinc, aluminium and iron. I was shocked that nothing was initially picked up!
- Run a magnet through your sand in the tank and sump see if you pick up any tiny things on them. There's been some reputable brands of sand that have had magnetic pieces in them from the packaging. Just removing the sand won't get tiny metallic pieces out as they're heavy but too small to be scoops so will just sink to the bottom on the glass then covered by more sand if you add it.
- The tank getting better after a water change does point to some water quality issue and the source of it sounds like it may be from the tank rather than an introduction of it from an external source such as your RO or Salt but it won't hurt to examine everything that touches or stores water or anything for the tank. This includes mixing containers and utensils such as wavemakers or pumps, hose clamps etc.
- When I had elevated metals from an external source, it threw me off as some corals would just be thriving and growing for a long while, many would eventually die off. They may of looked a bit poor for months then died, some looked great and seemed to grow for even longer then die. It was a long hard slog figuring out what was the issue but this inconsistently in coral appearance really threw me off!
- once you've checked all equipment and utensils in and out of the tank, try removing the dosage of products (if it won't greatly impact tank health) that you've introduced maybe a month or two before you had these issues.
- chuck your red LEDs on at night a few hours after lights off and take a little look at livestock/pest in case
- may be worth doing some bacterial program and adding in some fresh live rock into the sump to introduce a little more biodiversity
- PAR test won't hurt, although I don't think it would be the issue.
- it helped me to log anything in real time of what I was changing on the tank or if I made a new addition of something etc. On an app. It's been so useful going back and seeing how changes may of impacted my tank.
Sorry for the essay lol. I didn't get to watch till the end being at work sorry if I've repeated something! Hopefully your problem is fixed soon! All the best
Thanks for the detailed response! Will read through and make some notes later.
There some great ideas there, I will definitely look into the type of plastic the water is being stored in , looking forward to seeing what my next icp is and if it’s any different. Will definitely look at the other things you’ve suggested too .
Thanks so much for ur input 🙏🏼
@@portchmister no worries! Let us know how you go :)
I love this kind of video cause this helps us learn to get the best color out of our corals.
So glad you’re enjoying it 👍🏻
And also look at the other most common causes of coral blanching/bleaching. Excessive UV/high PAR as Sam said, temperature and salinity. Do you ever check salinity immediately before you do a water change? Is your ATO working properly? Low salinity will cause bleaching.
Great thinking!
Always check salinity with a Milwaukee checker . Thanks for ur input 🙏🏼
I had a similar experience. Placed a couple of Poly filters pads in Sump. Improvements were noticed.
Exxcessive Metals play a big part.
Good old poly filter is amazing!
Done that , and had noticeable difference. I do love those poly filter pads though.
Thanks for your input 🙏🏼
Awesome video, looking forward to a follow-up!
Thank you!!
Awesome Video Guys! Lately I've been focusing on pH. I might have missed it's mention, but I am leaning toward a higher pH being a great tool for limiting many of the nuisance bacterio-algaes. I have noticed that if I can keep pH above 8.25/8.3, conditions are more favourable to coral growth than cyano/dino growth. When the pH gets closer to or below 8.1/8.0 then the nuisances are better able to out-complete the corals for available nutrients (which also feed zooxanthellae.). Where is your pH sitting at??? For example, If the nightly pH drops to lower than ideal; then Cyano/Dino blooms can out-complete coral zooxanthellae for available fertilizers such as PO4/NO3.... the larger population of nuisance alga; the bigger the impact on nightly pH swings (when all living things respirate: i.e. consume O2 and expel CO2); and the more skewed the competition is in the nuisances' favour when photosynthesis resumes...???
In fact, I've had a small theory over the last several years that events like cyanobacteria and dinoflagellate blooms are actually natures last ditch effort to avoid environmental crashes... low pH leads to more photosynthetic power by the uglies..... again the focus for me is always on pH; as our reefs mature, and biodiversity rises, there is more pressure on the pH (O2/CO2) Dynamic.....
this is super interesting... We didn't look at PH and I really like some of your theories there, thanks for contributing!
My Pleasure. I've learned a tonne from videos like the ones you produce. Keep them coming please...!!
I have a 20 liter, at the moment, and after coming back from a trip overseas for six days, I noticed the coloration on one ZOA has been going further down, as well as a toadstool in another tank not opening up. PH swings happen crazy in my tank so I have to top up all the time. It dives to 7.5-7.8 real quick.
@arsenioseslpodcast3143 7.5 is low!!!
This is what the hobby is all about! Troubleshooting issues and helping each other! Lighting definitely could be an issue and I always like to borrow a PAR meter from a mate when changing lights or intensity - our eyes are terrible at judging this. Bacterial issue is also a potential issue - wouldn’t it be great to get Aqua Biomics outside of the US?
It would be incredible if we could, hopefully will be a short term problem.
I'm with you about the sand, to much removed disturbing the good bacteria, like you said adding some may do the trick. I don't know if he got UV if he does maybe turn it off for a few days or weeks. But the tank is looking good maybe just be patient and things will turn around. Thanks Sam!
Good tips mate, thank you!!
1. Maybe to much sulphur/sulphate release from sand removal
2. Check water for leaking volts. ( multi meter)
3. ORP levels drastically change when bacteria drops or rises suddenly.
Good luck
Good thinking, will check thanks 👍🏻
I’m going through the exact same thing at the moment sps losing colour and funnily enough my vivid confetti is looking beautiful while other corals like my fruity pebbles has lost a lot of colour and is pretty much white but has really good polyp extension
Interesting… hopefully we can find the problem!
Does he have a Fudge???or using a GFO?? Could it be sucking elements out of the water and the water change adding them back before they go again ???
Yeah great questions, will check it out!
I do have a fuge but it’s quite small considering, I add coral essentials minor trace elements and I have to add phosphate and nitrates so I don’t need to use GFO .
I do appreciate the input though
I’m in a similar boat with my Cade 1200. I recovered from Dino’s in Nov. Icp comes back good. Acro and anacapora aren’t good but Monti and poci etc are growing out of control. I’ve put it down the lag from Dino treatment, as Abe says and Acro problems look back at least a month.
If Jason wants some halides I have some brand new ones in 250 and 300w multiple reef colors. I’m over the other side of town but we can work something out.
I’m not sure it was a legit want for halides or just reminiscing of a simpler time 😅
I do agree though that acro will take all changes from the last couple months into affect
First and foremost, I'd run an ICP on his source water. Then, while waiting for the results, I'd swap out the membrane and all filters (assuming he is running his own RODI). TDS meters have been known to be quite inaccurate at times. The corals in question look like they have been overdosed with aminos or possibly iron, but I would want to be sure that the source water is clean as possible. You just can't get ahead of the curve if your auto top off is continually adding bad water. Is he dosing anything to keep the refugium happy? I too would run a second ICP on the tank water. I'd also put in some good ol elbow grease by doing daily 5-10% water changes for a week to see if I could gently reset the tank. While doing that reset, I'd check for the more rarer issues as well - rusty magnet, stray voltage, etc. Wouldn't hurt to also double check his temp probe against a lab grade mercury therm since ICP can't help with temperature validation. I hope he hangs in there, this is all part of the journey, unfortunately. I am sure the tank will get back on track soon enough!
Like it! Thanks for the tips, see how we go
Thanks for ur input will definitely take on board ur input 🙏🏼
Could be a chemical/contaminant issue that ICP wont pickup on. If this was the case, use a polyfilter to see if the issues clear up. The system could also be carbon limited, unlikely but heard of carbon dosing bringing some systems back to life @CoralEuphoria has a video on this. I doubt a PAR change would be the issue however if it was, the corals will adapt within a couple months of the change. Even if ICP is in the clear for metals, some rusting magnets can release metals/toxins that ICP wont pickup. metals like iron released from rust will be consumed by algae's/bacteria in the tank leading to a seemingly clean ICP, however some metals and toxins not detectable through ICP could accumulate. Since a 20% water change shows some improvement it is likely a contaminant issue such as this, in which case a polyfilter will help but finding the source is best. Dont forget pump impellers. hard to spot corrosion as the rust cant accumulate on the constantly spinning impeller but you will see signs when cleaned if corrosion is taking place. Hope this helps and aids as advice for anyone interested.
Good tips, thank you!
Have used poly pads with no difference or anything being detected.
Thanks for ur help 🙏🏼
Good to know!
As soon as I saw this I thought of Abe's video (coral euphoria) on missing element ....I could be wrong but it's worth a watch ... I'm sure you have already 😂
Will revisit it again, thank you!!
Definitely I’ll have a look at it ,
Thanks 🙏🏼
ruclips.net/video/NSbeTFajzB0/видео.html
I might be wrong, but once i read a paper (cant remember the journal) which showed that chromoproteins and fluorescent proteins have their peak expression at different PAR. If i remember right, too much par favors chromoprotein rather than flourescent protein expression.
Interesting! I’ll take a look for this paper
On the skimmer, if Dino’s are still around some types will enter the water column at night and can have the effect Jason noted. I would have thought kh instability based on the observations. If you are confident to rule out alk (not sure I would just yet) I would look to the salt. Not sure how many buckets have been used (or more I importantly different manuf batches). ICP has limitations. Run carbon and make sure you start a fresh batch of salt that is well mixed before use. Components of the mix will settle during transport. check your RO system if you make it.
Great tips, thank you!
I’ve checked the Dino’s under a microscope and the Dino’s aren’t water born so uv won’t help . Will definitely start running carbon again although it hasn’t made any difference a few weeks ago when I ran it .
Appreciate ur input 🙏🏼
One thing that really stands out to me, is your water change routine and how things get better. I strongly suspect some kind of imbalance in trace elements.
It also seems that rock/sand to livestock ratio is quite low. These media really help stabilize the the tank. It’s one of those invisible unknowns.
Three: stop changing stuff.
4. Skimmer going crazy. U might have an oversized skimmer. The bio load is going up and down and the sudden surge causes over flow. Been there before.
Solid tips there, thank you
I do have quite a larger skimmer than is required so willl try a smaller one . I would say my media is quite sufficient as I quite frequently have to dose nitrates and phosphates , what are ur thoughts on that ?
@@portchmister in my experience media like MarinePure or seachem matrix (when in the sump) is mostly pointless. I think Jake Adam’s also subscribes to this idea.
Reason being the decomposition of waste happens quite fast in the display tank. For example, if there isn’t enough bacteria to process the waste. Algae can process waste really quickly in the display tank. This is why you can have low nutrients and still have a lot of algae. So long story short, it’s better to have more surface area for the bacteria inside the display. Ie: more live rock and or sand.
Going back to the trace elements thing, I also wanna add that since u don’t dose trace, that your refugium could be eating up essential nutrients that’s not being replace fast enough with water changes ie: iron, molybdenum, mn
With ICP tests, can come back “normal” but remember trace elements are at quite low levels and most get depeleted and or oxidized rather quickly after entering the water.
I’m also certain your skimmer is oversized or improperly tuned air intake ratio. What’s your skimmer model?
Sorry things keep coming to mind, but another thing u might want to consider is carbon dose (very little at first) since this will actually feed your corals. (Bacteria processes the nitrates and phosphates) and then the corals eat the bacteria.
I would also try amino acids, but not right now, when things are getting a little better and more stable only. This will take u to the next level imo
there are some solid tips here, well worth looking into Jason
I’m thinking some sort of parameter has changed leading to excessive slowdown of growth and stn. Lack of growth leads to less consumption of major and minor elements and less demand for nutrients (NO3 and PO4) leading to a cascading effect on other tank parameters. STN usually indicates a parameter swing or even suddenly change in lighting (PAR and spectrum).
Thanks for your thoughts, plenty to consider there
Sand removal can really affect some corals I cleaned out my sump and wiped out my tenuis but didn't affect any other acro bacteria change can be a problem
Yeah that’s interesting that it affected some but not others, a lot like this instance!!
I'm not sure if its some Acropora really don't like change or some need certain types of bacteria more than others@@ParkersReef
I'd be looking really closely at potential environmental problem as well. Quite a lot of dust on your equipment board. Is the window behind that blind open? Looks like it by the way the blind is flapping. Do you tend to only open the window at night? What's outside that window? Nearby road or railway track? Any renovations going on nearby?
Yeah that’s good thinking, it is in a new estate with a lot of building
I had the same problem with my sps did a icp test found out low potassium and fluoride
I have heard potassium is important for color, but it didn’t show up as an issue on his ICP.
Will see what the second ICP comes up with :)
I dose both these 🤔
Had almost identical symptoms, heavy metal issue in the end. Check power heads.
Good tip!
Thanks for ur input 🙏🏼
Curious as to the accuracy of the test you did there Sam, with a spintouch was it? Phos showing high at 0.3 (he said he normally sits around 0.1) and Mag low at 1241. I do hope you figure out the issue!
and a wee bit of nitrite too....
Yeah the spintouch is great, might not have the resolution of other kits but I do back its accuracy.
Phosphate def up a little (although mine is around the same…) Mag isn’t too bad, but would be good to get another 150ppm
Ignore the nitrite though, it will occasionally show 0.1
If there is something with heavy metals, Two Little Fishies MetaSorb UHC is supposed to be an excellent tool for taking them out. You'll still need to identify the source of course. Would start with inspecting all magnets in the tank for swelling, and anything else metallic for corrosion signs anywhere else in the stand.
Doing a full PAR survey of the tank is absolutely worth doing and should always be done after lights are added or changed anyway. At the worst it tells you what levels are in the different areas of the tank are getting allowing for optimal coral placement.
thanks for the heads up!
Have had similar dramas when messing with sand bed and lighting, you did both in a small time frame, wouldn,t mind betting on one or both of them.
Is certainly a chance I reckon
Interesting, thanks for ur input 🙏🏼
Thanks for sharing the footage. I would bring light intensity down at least by 30% overall and dose neo nitro and AF liquid Rotifers. I get very good result by keeping my Philips CC at 30 to 35 % white and 100% intensity for 8 hrs boosting white makes my sps upset . But not all tanks are same 😊
Super interesting, I find my sps like white light more!!
I feel using neo nitro might not help any as I have to dose nitrates and phosphates. Maybe dosing rotifers might help though I am regularly dosing phyto.
Thanks for your input 🙏🏼
I had similar issues and started dosing all the bright well aquatics line and the colors are getting really nice. replenish , coral color, vitamins, restore, aminos, snow, vm. I highly recommend their line oh and the benepets coral powder is insane.
Thanks for the tips!
What r u dosing ? Are you using activated carbon? What r u doing for nutrient control? Carbon dosing or biopellets etc?
Just skimmer, water change and refugium.
I would be checking for AEFW, specially seeing as the lps is all happy and it’s individual pieces that are unhappy
Yeah that is a fair assumption too, although none of the struggling pieces showed signs of biting or bugs
Just a theory as they tend to take off in numbers with warmer water as well which started to happen after the new lights were installed which coincided with the corals losing colour
My thoughts, as someone interested in reefing. By the look of the clam, I believe lighting is to intense for longer than needed! But, I am just studying, before building an aquarium.
appreciate your thoughts (Y)
Hi :) I think that the occasional dinos are expelled zooxanthellae due to stress. I'd verify the phosphate level with a different kit - said .1, but def worth checking if it's not closer to 0 or high. Other than that would go the suggested way and check what has changed since probs started - lighting. Would also be interesting to compare ICPs from then and now. Thanks for the interesting video!
Thanks for the tips! Phosphate is def in the system, if anything it’s closer to 0.3 than 0.1
i watched about 17 mins in… i’m gonna say get the apex recalibrated again. if the trident is malfunctioning even at the slightest, because he did say he’s alk jumped around a little… i would re-check that newer equipment. browning & stn i associate to phosphates & alkalinity. i wished he would’ve mentioned his parameters, even the basic ones
Many thanks! We did cover parameters and I even did a little spin touch test there at the end. Would be worth calibrating the trident though yes
@@ParkersReef he also mentioned that his skimmer is going off randomly at night? i wonder if the trident is doing some kind of overdosing etc
I check with Hanna and salifert just to confirm and they are all pretty close to each other .
The colours look good tank looks good... maybe too much fiddling with things just leave it. If anything put a bag of carbon. The other thing i noticed when you did the top view i didnt notice much white edging on the clam shell
Yeah not wrong, will need to let things stabilise after all the changes.
Simple things first. PAR test and see what it's at. Lighting was one of the only significant changes mentioned during the period the tank declined so its an obvious place to start. Some colonies might be fine with the increased light and others can struggle. Easy way to test the theory would be backing them down 15-20% for a couple weeks and see if those problem colonies improve.
Yes that is completely fair
Skimmer producing more at night is bothering me. Can you throw an outlet watt meter on the skimmer and check the power draw at night vs the day? I wonder if additional lights is drawing too much power and limiting the wattage to other items during the day.
Ooooh that’s an interesting thought! Will check into that some more, I like it
I will try carbon dosing, not to reduce nutrients but to increase bacterial population to feed your corals. You might need to dose some nitrates/ammonium to ensure your nitrate does not bottom out. This fixed a similar issue I had. @coraleuphoria on YT has a video on this. Good luck mate
Will check the video out, thank you!
What were the silicate results from the rodi? Had a similar issue with icp test but rodi level of silicates were super high .
The tank value for silicates was fine, but did not test the RODI individually. Will investigate further anyway, thank you!
I have 90% sps and my lps grow really slow, they used to grow very fast before I sold most of them and the sps took over. I have a theory that corals realease some sort of toxin that that sps are immune to but lps don't like and probably vice versa. But there is no way of testing that stuff.
Interesting!!
It is interesting, but seeing Steve’s tank and another guy in Geelong with an amazing tank has an sps dominated tank with Goni’s in it doing great but every tank is different and definitely worth checking out .
Thanks for ur input 🙏🏼
Oh and one more suggestion. Consider rewiring the power strip for the small tank on the left side. ⚡️🔌for safety 😊don’t wanna learn safety the hard way 😮
Good thinking!
smart!
Get on to it straight away , thanks 🙏🏼
Could be anything. Lack of food, too little light, too much light, changing food routine, coral warfare. Everyone can guess but get a PAR meter in there. Too much PAR can cause fading. And an ICP test takes any guesswork out of water chemistry.
Yeah will do a PAR test for curiosity although i doubt it will be too low or too high. That being said, I do completely agree that it could be literally anything. Hopefully we can track it down and share with the community what we found!
I dont know if its realy true but .
I watched a vid once where coral warfare was a issue .
Not the direct contact but some corals can release hormones feromone or what ever there called .
Goniopora and leather corals seem to do that and you cant see it or test it .
A friend of mine had lots of acro and some leather coral toadstool and sinularia .
When he took them out the acros growd exploded .
Even though the parameters didnt change .
I heard you tank is 1year 1.5 years old now so its mature
Maybe some corals are at there best now and start to try to take out the competition .
Its just a thinking .
Sorry if my english is not correct .
Greetings from holland
Really appreciate your insight!
Yes I’ve heard about leathers releasing toxins but not Goni’s , I look into it some more .
Thanks 🙏🏼
certainly very interesting!!
It’s probably nothing, but what’s the silver colored bead @33:30 ?
There appears to be a colony of aptasia just after the 33 min mark. I think I saw a couple vermetid snails. Overall nothing obvious or unusual. I’d think some months since the Dino treatment would be enough to stabilize. We never got to see the filtration, so who knows what’s there. My guess is there was a shock to the biome and more fundamental processes could be to blame…but I did have my eyes on that dwarf angel when you mentioned it. LoL!
That’s an air bubble :)
oh. 😅🤣🤷🏼♂️
Hahaha it all good, it did look sinister!!
Suprised salinity wasnt mentioned. How is jason testing that, via the trident? Has it been calibrated recently? Icp give a result for that?
Might also be an idea to try an ICP from a different company, second opinion and all that.
Yes good point
what about another brand of ICP test, and doing something like the Moonshiner's Method to boost up depleted trace elements?
Moonshiners is something I’d like Jason to try yeah :)
Where is the coraline algae? This tank looks new to me
I clean the coralline of my back wall quite regularly though I can’t get behind the lower parts and bottom of tank . 😩
Yeah that could be an interesting clue, is there much on your rocks Jason?
I wonder if it's flow. The browned out corals seems to be on the back left where there is no powerhead.
That’s a great call actually
I agree I’ve had SPS crack the shits and brown out when the flows been messed with.
Does he monitor his ph if so what’s he getting throughout the day
The only thing about the flow hypothesis is that it doesn’t connect to why a water change would temporarily improve the issue.
water change would create a short term flow disruption though?
Be good to see when you do the videos on tanks is the par that some tanks are getting with light settings. Specially with the new radions. Maybe with some wavemakers the flow settings people are using etc. Go a little deeper into the equipment side of things.
Will do thank you!
Taking sand out stopped all growth for almost 6 months for me. I took it out over 4 weeks during waterchanges.
wow that's a huge impact!
What kind if clean up crew. And does he add copepods?
Yeah has added copepods before for the Dino program and clean up crew is fairly standard (trochus/strombus/etc)
I have so much clean up crew , I do add pods and phytoplankton quite regularly.
Thanks for ur input 🙏🏼
I had better results with biodiversity and microbiome when I consistently added copepods and added starfish and urchins to clean up crew@@ParkersReef
have you tried a microbiome test or dna test of tank?@@portchmister
not easily accessed here in australia, but something that a lot of reefers here would be interested in for sure
Any high silicates in the water?
Not on the first ICP, but will get a second one done to be sure
Funny comment about MHs being like an ex… you do forget about the noise, making sure your ballast is rated for the right bulb like radium on a M81(?) ballast vs HQI, etc., and chucking it $80-90 ever year for every fixture.
Yep, we remember only the good parts 😅
Also, if nutrients are low, adding new lights could cause sps to lose color.
Nutrients are reasonably high, like not excessive - but confirmed on multiple kits to have a decent chunk in the system
They can loose color if they’re not feeding. What causes polyps to retract and corals to underfeed? Too much flow, getting bitten, organic contaminants, sudden change in lighting, disruption to nutrient supply, so many possibilities. 😮
Yep, so many! Still, thankfully we have tools at our disposal that can help us narrow it down a bit
I’d love to know is flow schedule on the MP40s and the Nero
I'll see if Jason can respond for you
Speculative theory and making some assumptions here (I’ve never been to Australia and I’m not too familiar with the climate). I didn’t hear you guys talk about pH and am wondering if that could be what has changed. It’s possible windows were open more often earlier last year and they are closed more now to keep the air conditioning inside during this time of year. More carbon dioxide in the air could be suppressing the pH. Red Sea salt produces a mix of 8.2 - 8.5 pH salt so that could temporarily bring up the suppressed pH. If he tests pH and it’s atleast 8.2, I would say that pretty much rules out pH as the issue.
Another interesting connection: pH swings up during the day with photosynthesis and drops at night. Your skimmer’s performance has changed at night. What if pH affects skimmer performance? Assuming you have suppressed pH, that could mean that when a tank is operating in a suppressed pH environment, the low pH swing at night does something to increase the skimmer production. I’ve never heard anyone mention this connection, so it would certainly be interesting, if true.
Ph is definitely worth investigating, although with the better weather over the last few months here in australia Jason has had the windows open more than usual.
But it does make sense with the water change temporarily bringing it up and then declining again…
Ph peaks at 8.3 , dose kalk also .
With regards to the bristletooth, I'm guessing it was sourced from Africa? They have that really cool yellow appearance as juveniles but like so many others, transition for the uglier pretty quickly.... as far as its behavior, imo, all bristletooths are very cryptic and it's nothing to be concerned about.... just watch his belly to make sure he appears nourished as they can be bullied / out muscled come feesing time. They are irreplacable grazers tho... My 2 cents.
Thx for the great content Sam! Regards from Canada!
thanks for watching and commenting!
On your friend's tank]1,the fish look stressed (one of the tangs was darker) and to my far away eyes,as well.{2,the pH,what was that dooing?I missed hearing that.Does he have a rrefurium?Bacteria is more populated in a healthy sump.And his lighting schedule?Does he run that as bright .All the time.Halide liight I love it as well but you can cook corals and I belive higher temps and light bleach out colors,far easier thna lower light starves corals. my 2 cents,Doc BC
Thanks Doc!
Did you used a filter while recording the entire time?
Yes I did
The color loose is the different lighting change. I have changed out lighting and had my coral start bleaching a few weeks after the change. Especially if the spectrum and par are different from the other fixture. Green gobblen is definitely a sign of more light. I had the same thing happen to my green Gobblen.
Good to know! Thanks for sharing
My guess would be low nutrients, corals losing color plus Dinos strive in low nutrient environments. I would possibly feed your fish more. This is my guess
Nutrients are definitely not low (see test results at the end of the video)
I’ve had some issues over the past month or so and couldn’t put my finger on it. Turns out I found one of the magnets in my mp40 wet side had split and seemed to have been corroding for some time
Yeah wow! Did they show heavy metals on an ICP though?
@@ParkersReef icp wasn’t perfect but didn’t come back with anything to dramatic
interesting
can't stop monti cap from growing
Haha I know right?!
My bet is still weak or unhealthy biome/bacterial instabilty, regarding bare bottom, light rockscape + almost all glass cleaned. I suffered same, unrecorded on icp issues below 2 years mark in 15g nano. Above 2 years everything suddenly exploded in growth and stunning coloration (GHA also due 0.2 phos - without tangs and urchin). I moved to 50g,same light, flow, dosing etc., also bare bottom + all mature biology form old tank (didnt help). 3 months better than ever, than disaster after disaster. Now, after 1 year i stopped every form of carbon dosing (aminos, witamins, powders, etc) because brown bad guys are ovegrowing from damaged parts of acros and acans. Started only "one of miracle ocean mud" product and DIY coral snow for acidic neutral env./ Stable pH day-night around 8.0. Hope this is the case. Still considering more bio-media and mby some large wild sponges colony with my chaeto in sump.
Thank you!
100 procent the dwarf angel And the change in light
Confident! I like it!!
Sps dont have a good mechanism for taking nutrients from the water column, unlike lps corals do have a good mechanism. Thusfore your lps are not showing signs of srress.
So more flow you think?
Send a aquabiomic dna test. Could be a pathogen . I had problems with my reef tank and done absolutely everything under the sun and replaced everything posssible but couldn’t solve my issues with my reef. Then sent a dna test to aquabiomic. Turns out i had some coral pathogen called stony coral tissue loss disease.
Don’t think we can get them done here in Australia yet , let me know if I’m wrong ?
Yeah we don’t, but it should be possible to send one overseas?
@@ParkersReef i got my test kit from a company in the uk called reefquest . After taking samples of my tank i shipped it back to then who then shipped it to a company called oceamo based in austria . Who then took delivery of the sample and forward shipped it to aquabiomics.
@revZ098 nice one
You dont need to add bacteria, tank is a year and half old, you have plenty of surface area for bacteria.
Yeah but a huge portion of it was removed when the sand came out?
pleese,,,fix this camera,,,
It might need more commas you think? 😂
Could the fish nipping the corals cause a release in toxins. Coral warfare caused by the nipping fish. I'd recommend a carbon dose and some low volume but more frequent water changes. Uv sterilizer in the return.😮
certainly possible yes!
Jason, i posted a youyube link to a video that i think might help but this channel deleted the post sorry .
The channel didn’t, I’d say RUclips did. Perhaps give us the title of the video of RUclips won’t let you share it?
Tht looks like very low iodine levels to me
Hmmm interesting, will check
I do dose it , will see in the next ICP ,
Thanks for ur input 🙏🏼
@portchmister no problem your well I try to keep my mag in the 1400 I notice tht my torches and hammers looks more happier and fuller
yeah I too like a higher magnesium, especially for the LPS (although the LPS in this system looked great)
Funny when you go visit a friend regarding his issue and he can hardly say a word because you're talking all the time. Let the guy speak, we want to hear from him. Your channel is great but this video is about his tank and his issues, not your opinions like in other videos. There's not a single sentence of his in this whole 40 minute video where you didn't interrupt him 😃
thanks for the feedback!
@@ParkersReef I hope you don't take this the wrong way. Again, your channel and content is great, which is a given just by the fact I'm watching it all the time from Europe. It's just a suggestion to make it even better!
no no, feedback is always appreciated!
@@ParkersReef I loved the video and didn’t get even slightly similar feelings to the OP. I loved the conversation; hope you are open to this feedback as well 🙂
much appreciated. Everyone is entitled to an opinion, I will always take viewer feedback on board!
Definitely would be looking into getting more flow to all those colony’s.
Yeah I think that’s been a big take away, more flow needed
Check for magnets 🧲
Corrosion leaching into tank
Yes good call