I used tension shower curtain holders as a youngster. Not something I'd recommend you fly an HMI on, but it worked for small things back then! Keep the tips coming, Dave!
One thing to note, if you decide to screw the 2x4 into the wall spreader, make sure it's pushed all the way in or the tension will be on the 3 tiny screws. If the screws snap, the 2x4 could shift inward and release the tension on the wall.
Also, the Matthews wall spreaders are designed for "raw" or "unfinished" 2x4's (meaning they are true 2"x 4", the finished piece of 2x4 he used in the video was actually 1.5"x 3.5". Again, when mounting the smaller sized lumber, be sure it's seated toward the bottom of the cup so the weight can't shift the beam downward during shooting.
Great video. We usually use a pre-cut 16" or so 2x4 with the end pieces already screwed to it. Some rubber matting trimmed to size and stapled to protect the wall.
Joseph McDonald That's kind of a reason why I started this. A lot of it isn't hard. I was intimidated before I started doing this type of work but over time comes that confidence. Electric still intimidates me but I'm learning. ☺
Fair enough! You have given me some confidence to start trying out clamps a lot more, I might get used to those before I start rigging from the ceiling. These videos are absolutely great though! Thank you!
Found this after Shane Hurlbut mentioned always having a tape measure in his kit while scouting/confirming locations prior to filming so he’d know if a “wall spreader” would be feasible in a room they liked.
It seems as if speedrail is the most universal as you don't have to go the store and buy wood just for a shoot. If you have speedrail sorted you can just keep your gear and used it accordingly for shots. Wood is fun and all cutting it but speedrail is my vote. If anyone can give me a reason otherwise I would love to hear it. Great channel. Thanks
@@creativegreats6924 2 C-stands are great but i suggest 2 beefy baby triple riser w/rocky mountain leg. ad some casters to those and you are more versatile than anything.
When using this kind of rig, does anyone have a chart of weight to distance from the rigging point before failure? I’m curious if anyone ever has issues with this kind of rig twisting. Thanks!
I see on your wall spreader had a safety on the light fixture , but what about the grip gear it self , sash safety would work great in this application and also putting paper tape (sure tape ) around the pancake to the wall can help stop the wall spreader from sliding down and possibly falling with the whole rig ,just pionting out a couple of tips
On my college short film, I mounted a 650w arri onto an autopole. I didn't know if that was the best way to mount to a ceiling at the time, but it worked lol. I tested it beforehand of course
Waaaaaaiit à minute.... you (US cinema industry) buy 2x4 to the dimensions, you cut, and do calculations, EVERYTIME??? That’s, I’m sorry, idiotic... we’ve had for at least 25 years, what we call Bouladou bars, they are telescopic bars with articulated plates... much much handier Granted you building codes are like cardboard so you have to look for solid wall beams, whereas almost all our walls are solids
I used tension shower curtain holders as a youngster. Not something I'd recommend you fly an HMI on, but it worked for small things back then! Keep the tips coming, Dave!
Kyle Delso pahahahahaha will do
Solid, nice video. Luckily we are hanging litemats these days
Cinematography Database ugh, I haven't had the pleasure yet haha
You see this is why we need to move to a metric system.
One thing to note, if you decide to screw the 2x4 into the wall spreader, make sure it's pushed all the way in or the tension will be on the 3 tiny screws. If the screws snap, the 2x4 could shift inward and release the tension on the wall.
Also, the Matthews wall spreaders are designed for "raw" or "unfinished" 2x4's (meaning they are true 2"x 4", the finished piece of 2x4 he used in the video was actually 1.5"x 3.5". Again, when mounting the smaller sized lumber, be sure it's seated toward the bottom of the cup so the weight can't shift the beam downward during shooting.
I always wondered how they got the measurements right for these. Thanks!
Tevin Teixeira no worries 😉
Great video. We usually use a pre-cut 16" or so 2x4 with the end pieces already screwed to it. Some rubber matting trimmed to size and stapled to protect the wall.
Dave, thank you so much! You make useful knowledge!
These videos are amazing, thank you!
Your channel is a great resource for film students
Great video, always been terrified of stuff like this, I like my actors un-squashed.
Joseph McDonald That's kind of a reason why I started this. A lot of it isn't hard. I was intimidated before I started doing this type of work but over time comes that confidence. Electric still intimidates me but I'm learning. ☺
Fair enough! You have given me some confidence to start trying out clamps a lot more, I might get used to those before I start rigging from the ceiling. These videos are absolutely great though! Thank you!
Omfg I've been looking for this channel for a minute. Thank you for doing these .
Great videos Dave, so much help :)
2022 still a great tip. thanks
It's a pretty nice stuff! I didn't know it exist before watching your video. Thanks! :)
literally high level work~!
i think you've hit your stride. keep this up. good info, concise... good editing and no fluff :) well done my friend :)
Sean Carr thanks man
Awesome video!
Thanks dude!
Good job!
Thank you so much! Very good video/class! Question: If I use plywood instead of the pancake, would it be a problem? Best,
Nice, keep it up! Very useful
This is so dope
I love this!!!
What would be the use of this over a PoleCat?
Found this after Shane Hurlbut mentioned always having a tape measure in his kit while scouting/confirming locations prior to filming so he’d know if a “wall spreader” would be feasible in a room they liked.
Hey, you got a link? I’m a fan of Shane’s as well but I don’t remember that one tbh
It seems as if speedrail is the most universal as you don't have to go the store and buy wood just for a shoot. If you have speedrail sorted you can just keep your gear and used it accordingly for shots. Wood is fun and all cutting it but speedrail is my vote. If anyone can give me a reason otherwise I would love to hear it. Great channel. Thanks
Greg Thompson oh absolutely, I actually just received a telescoping speedrail Wall spreader and I’m doing an Ep on it soon. And thank you ☺️
what's a good speedrail brand ? also what's all needed for basic set up ? two c-stands?
@@creativegreats6924 2 C-stands are great but i suggest 2 beefy baby triple riser w/rocky mountain leg. ad some casters to those and you are more versatile than anything.
@@gregthompson8062 what are casters and rock mountain legs ?
When using this kind of rig, does anyone have a chart of weight to distance from the rigging point before failure? I’m curious if anyone ever has issues with this kind of rig twisting. Thanks!
I see on your wall spreader had a safety on the light fixture
, but what about the grip gear it self , sash safety would work great in this application and also putting paper tape (sure tape ) around the pancake to the wall can help stop the wall spreader from sliding down and possibly falling with the whole rig ,just pionting out a couple of tips
Nice I dig that
what's paper tape? how is that strong enough?
hey dave, what do you think about autopole/matthpoles?
On my college short film, I mounted a 650w arri onto an autopole. I didn't know if that was the best way to mount to a ceiling at the time, but it worked lol. I tested it beforehand of course
Varipole vs wall spreader?
Never tested one against the other but I’ve been told that wall spreaders hold more and for that, it’s safer to use
@@GripTips Thanks a lot mate!!!!
Waaaaaaiit à minute.... you (US cinema industry) buy 2x4 to the dimensions, you cut, and do calculations, EVERYTIME??? That’s, I’m sorry, idiotic... we’ve had for at least 25 years, what we call Bouladou bars, they are telescopic bars with articulated plates... much much handier
Granted you building codes are like cardboard so you have to look for solid wall beams, whereas almost all our walls are solids