All I can say is great job and way to go for you. Certainly not in your 30s anymore. Free wood is great who cares what size . As your woodstove doesn't know what kinda wood your loading up. Nice axe collection. I love fiskars , great axes. Keep chopping mate.
5 fiskars axes it's about 260 USD in Ukraine. It is the price of 1 truck of oak. So not much ppl buy that brand even if it is best. My noname axe for splitting woods costs me about 200 UAH which is ~8 USD.
The point of the video is to use the smallest axe that will split the round with the least amount of effort expended. If you only have one heavy axe you are using more energy to split your wood. The same principles apply to non branded axes, get some small medium and large axes, and see how much effort each takes. I try and get my wood from Arborists who don't have the space or inclination to split and sell wood, but it comes in a variety of different sizes. I have built up my Fiskars collection over the years, and have the luxury of being able to choose the right weight for a given round.
Alastair Cook of course I agree that each type of axe has to be used according to the size of chunk. My axe has an average weight of 2 kg. For bigger chunks I,d prefer to have a 3 kg axe.
Don’t put your hands in the way I done the same with my x27splitting small walnut rounds and it worked good all morning till 1 slip an I nearly cut my thumb off 17 stitches and a cut tendon
I am not sponsored by Fiskars, I just like their products and tools in general. If you choose the right tool for a task, it then becomes a pleasure rather than a chore. I started with the X10, and built up the collection over the years, and learnt to use the smallest axe that would split the wood easily by trial and error. The tire tyre trick, or a bungee and chain work s well, but if you let the wood pile up around the chopping block, it is not so arduous.
Love that crisp sound coming from that wood. Mostly all we have here in North Idaho is Red Fir. I must ask, how many times have you had your fingers re-attached? ;)
Much easier on the body: I'm splitting 2-foot diameter 20 inch high black oak log rounds. I use two steel wedges tapped in off center along the diameter line or along the best cracks, away from the center heartwood. I use an 8 lb sledge hammer and the two steel wedges split the round into halves, then using a single wedge, I go quarters, eighths, sixteenths, etc., depending on the size. The entire log round is split into radial wedges -- *all standing up* -- no logs have flown off all over the place (it's the bending over that kills the back!). Then I use a small debarking axe to debark. Then I pull out each radial wedge a bit and use a splitting ax *easily* cutting the wedge into three or more pieces depending on size (some back bending here to pick up pieces). Please note the horrific strain on the entire body trying to split an intact (medium or large) log round with a splitting ax.
in general atleast in norway fiskars and also brødrene øyo is the best choices when it comes to using axes.i would recomend to buy some twisted wedges too to have in hand if needed.and possibly a sledge axe aswell.i know its exspensive but in long term its cheap
Einar Vindenes Hi Einar Thanks for your comments, I have tried log grenades (large twisted wedges), but the impact of street to steel was causing a lot of vibration up the sledge handle, so it was not my preferred method. I do have a 5ton Sheepack log splitter which I use on the old knotted logs, but I find for straight grain, an axe is far quicker if you have the right technique. If there is a knot on one side of a log, I will split the log into the "straight" section and toss the knotty part in a separate pile which I deal with later using the hydraulic log splitter. With hindsight, buying the log splitter was probably a mistake, and it would be easier and cheaper to give the knotty logs away to someone with a larger wood burner!
People who are used to do things with tools doesn't hurt them selves, just look at this video and think how old he is and how long has he been doing things this way: watch?v=nEZ0a3RLlEM It is people who can't achieve such mastery that hurts them selves and as it is with mastery, most people doesn't achieve it. This is why safety protocols exists but it doesn't apply to all.
🔥🔥🔥Thanks for the review, part 2 is awesome...I don't like the bending part, picking up the wood, so I use an old tire to split French Oak.🔥🔥🔥
All I can say is great job and way to go for you. Certainly not in your 30s anymore. Free wood is great who cares what size . As your woodstove doesn't know what kinda wood your loading up.
Nice axe collection. I love fiskars , great axes. Keep chopping mate.
Fucking hell man, watching you chop wood makes me swallow my gut
5 fiskars axes it's about 260 USD in Ukraine. It is the price of 1 truck of oak. So not much ppl buy that brand even if it is best. My noname axe for splitting woods costs me about 200 UAH which is ~8 USD.
The point of the video is to use the smallest axe that will split the round with the least amount of effort expended. If you only have one heavy axe you are using more energy to split your wood. The same principles apply to non branded axes, get some small medium and large axes, and see how much effort each takes.
I try and get my wood from Arborists who don't have the space or inclination to split and sell wood, but it comes in a variety of different sizes.
I have built up my Fiskars collection over the years, and have the luxury of being able to choose the right weight for a given round.
Alastair Cook of course I agree that each type of axe has to be used according to the size of chunk. My axe has an average weight of 2 kg. For bigger chunks I,d prefer to have a 3 kg axe.
I want to buy it to use in the camp, should I buy X11 or x17?
Don’t put your hands in the way I done the same with my x27splitting small walnut rounds and it worked good all morning till 1 slip an I nearly cut my thumb off 17 stitches and a cut tendon
I am not sponsored by Fiskars, I just like their products and tools in general. If you choose the right tool for a task, it then becomes a pleasure rather than a chore. I started with the X10, and built up the collection over the years, and learnt to use the smallest axe that would split the wood easily by trial and error.
The tire tyre trick, or a bungee and chain work s well, but if you let the wood pile up around the chopping block, it is not so arduous.
🔥🔥🔥Don't worry mister, I didn't say you are sponsored by Fiskars, I liked your video, and I subscribed to support your channel, have a nice day.🔥🔥🔥
Every way to split rounds can work until that one time it doesn't. Good luck to you.
Love that crisp sound coming from that wood. Mostly all we have here in North Idaho is Red Fir. I must ask, how many times have you had your fingers re-attached? ;)
Much easier on the body:
I'm splitting 2-foot diameter 20 inch high black oak log rounds.
I use two steel wedges tapped in off center along the diameter line or along the best cracks, away from the center heartwood. I use an 8 lb sledge hammer and the two steel wedges split the round into halves, then using a single wedge, I go quarters, eighths, sixteenths, etc., depending on the size. The entire log round is split into radial wedges -- *all standing up* -- no logs have flown off all over the place (it's the bending over that kills the back!). Then I use a small debarking axe to debark.
Then I pull out each radial wedge a bit and use a splitting ax *easily* cutting the wedge into three or more pieces depending on size (some back bending here to pick up pieces).
Please note the horrific strain on the entire body trying to split an intact (medium or large) log round with a splitting ax.
Ray W
To save the back and time,
I buy dry split oak.
in general atleast in norway fiskars and also brødrene øyo is the best choices when it comes to using axes.i would recomend to buy some twisted wedges too to have in hand if needed.and possibly a sledge axe aswell.i know its exspensive but in long term its cheap
Einar Vindenes
Hi Einar
Thanks for your comments, I have tried log grenades (large twisted wedges), but the impact of street to steel was causing a lot of vibration up the sledge handle, so it was not my preferred method.
I do have a 5ton Sheepack log splitter which I use on the old knotted logs, but I find for straight grain, an axe is far quicker if you have the right technique. If there is a knot on one side of a log, I will split the log into the "straight" section and toss the knotty part in a separate pile which I deal with later using the hydraulic log splitter. With hindsight, buying the log splitter was probably a mistake, and it would be easier and cheaper to give the knotty logs away to someone with a larger wood burner!
yeah,well you found a solution to it.and thats all that matters too
aha i see,those arent good in general those twists.but you could get thrue them with a log splitter
Was that a fart ?
Can the x17 split the bigger Logs.?
Just bought my x17 today works very nice 👌 on bigger logs start on the edges
Great comparison, thanks!
I wince every time the axe comes down with his hand near the blade.
Bu adam balta tutmasını biliyor
Такой срез можно рукой рубить))
fiskarsより
爺様の技術の方が凄すぎる。
これまでの人生でどんだけ薪割ってきたんだろうか。
A FUCKING ACCIDENT WAITING TO HAPPEN.HARRY HILL WILL GIVE YOU £250 towards your new leg tho!
People who are used to do things with tools doesn't hurt them selves, just look at this video and think how old he is and how long has he been doing things this way: watch?v=nEZ0a3RLlEM It is people who can't achieve such mastery that hurts them selves and as it is with mastery, most people doesn't achieve it. This is why safety protocols exists but it doesn't apply to all.
nice video