Love your motto about learning from mistakes and teaching each other! It's like a huge, friendly 3D printing adventure. Keep up the awesome work, Tinkers!
Those close-ups of the printed finished product are really helpful. Having such a smooth layer at such high speeds gives me a lot of confidence in the T1 Pro.
Installing the skeleton for Dummy13 is no joke-it's a real workout! Kids definitely can't do it alone, especially with the bigger sizes. The larger the model, the more muscle you need. LOL
Printed the male and female ones at 100%, the skeleton in ASA and the armour/skin pieces in different PLA. It's nice to have strong skeleton pieces because kids can be a bit rough moving them about. The different skins make them fun as models, the add-ons like weapons or tools make them fun as packages to sell perhaps :)
Stinker or not, the skunk came out quite well! No issue with those big round overhangs, hahaha. The skull came out awesome too though I can definitely see people buying that.
I done the robot 13 body in petg, the armor in pla. Done the dog, the motorcycle, the case at 350%. Super easy to pop together. Bigger is easier than smaller on assembly.
The problem with the silk skull at the top and the adaptive height is that on the silk skull, the mess at the top is caused by the top surface showing up which isn't as shiny as the sides. The adaptive layer height would help but not as much as it appears to have helped on the matte skull. Silk PLA is so annoying to deal with because of stuff like this that I've given up on printing with it altogether.
These new sticky plates (BIQU Cryogrip Frostbite, Supertack, SliceWorx, KDeavi etc) aren't "Cold" plates. They're basically all the same, a coated PEI plate meant to have far superior bed adhesion. one benefit to them all is you can get strong bed adhesion at a slightly lower bed temp than a standard textured PEI plate.
Cryo plates are polyurea, relative of truck bed liner, been around before, catch apparently that they can get too grippy and end up with bits permanently stuck to them.
Have printed many 150% Dummy 13 successfully. I've read that the joints do not scale up well, but there are remixes with modified joints out there to try.
It isn't practical for me to get a orange giga right now but for sure it's on the list. I love printing big. Working on a SW battle droid I purchased off Cults.
The upcoming Eryone Thinker X400 might interest you. I'm hoping the price will be surprisingly low. Not that I don't want Tinkers here to get affiliate clicks. ;)
I used petg for the Dummy 13 toys. My understanding was that it was a better choice because it's not as brittle so the parts flex a little better when snapping together. I've only done 3 sets so take that for what it's worth. I really like the look of those skulls. The adaptive layer height really works well. Your laser should etch those coasters pretty easily. I etched some with a 5 watt laser. If you find it's not as dark as you want just do another pass. As long as you don't move it you should be able to just burn over the existing pattern. Another thing you can do in lightburn is a Material Test grid. It will burn small squares at different speeds and power settings. Then you just pick the speed/power setting that gives you the best results. It will mean you are sacrificing a tile but you will always have it as a reference for future burns.
if you assemble that Dummy 13 grease those ball joints and thank me later, on that orange storm giga mayby if there is some demand you could print the star wars millenium falcon
My appeal to the SuperTack was adhesion and lower temp for longevity of the bed heating system…..fail on both. I only managed to get the Supetack success by not using the SuperTack profile and using smooth PEI plate. I did a range from 35-70 I think with the SuperTack profile and they all failed. I think my 2 SuperTack plates will go to the ocean to join your failed prints.😊
I’ve printed several Dummy 13s. I use ABS for the skeleton and PLA or ABS for the armor. They are great, the kids love them. I really like them as well. Can’t believe what the 27 inch one is selling for. Guess I should stop giving them away.
With blowing up the Dummy. Test some joints larger before doing the whole thing. Just to make sure you don’t have issues with the articulation being too loose.
I was wondering, if you did fuzzyskin on the front grill it night not look like a 3D printed and be fancy. I did door handles for a barn door and light switch/outlet covers using fuzzy skin and it turned out like store bought and has heft. Custom making with multicolour lilghtswitch over with names for kids room or for a panel what switch does what. That could be a good revenue stream
The trick with Stinkerette .. I'm assuming you started with a black model, and painted the white sections.... Do it the other way... Start with an all white model, and paint the black sections... That way all the infill, except for where you painted black, will be white, resulting in less of that color bleed you saw at the top.
Brilliant. I think i did start with her all black because filling the non-black sections was bleeding through too easily. a lot of the edges aren't sharp enough to be detected
Failure rate is pretty low... quality getting a lot higher... your going to have to drop the "novice" in your intro. That Biqui looks looks good and grippy... no excuse for using brim with that.
I've been hearing great things about the T1 Pro, and I'm totally hyped for your Dummy13!
Love your motto about learning from mistakes and teaching each other! It's like a huge, friendly 3D printing adventure. Keep up the awesome work, Tinkers!
Keep sharing your enthusiasm for the machines and farm stuff-it’s really got me hooked on 3D printing!
Those close-ups of the printed finished product are really helpful. Having such a smooth layer at such high speeds gives me a lot of confidence in the T1 Pro.
Installing the skeleton for Dummy13 is no joke-it's a real workout! Kids definitely can't do it alone, especially with the bigger sizes. The larger the model, the more muscle you need. LOL
Do it man , life size , hell yes.!!!
Matt, thanks for the inspiration to get back in the 3D print lab and posting videos to RUclips again! Love the Stinker-et!
Printed the male and female ones at 100%, the skeleton in ASA and the armour/skin pieces in different PLA. It's nice to have strong skeleton pieces because kids can be a bit rough moving them about. The different skins make them fun as models, the add-ons like weapons or tools make them fun as packages to sell perhaps :)
Stinker or not, the skunk came out quite well! No issue with those big round overhangs, hahaha. The skull came out awesome too though I can definitely see people buying that.
Huurrrrhurrrhurrr!
I lost a couple of heart beats when you almost drop the skull 😂
I done the robot 13 body in petg, the armor in pla. Done the dog, the motorcycle, the case at 350%. Super easy to pop together. Bigger is easier than smaller on assembly.
just tried assembling the knee at 1300%. NO DICE! need to mod
In the settings you ca change the adaptive layer height down to 0.04. The 0.08 is just the default.
I Printed 4... 1 at 200%, 2 at 150% and 1 at 100%... i love em.. they're fun and theres sooooo much to add to them. Great vid matt...
The problem with the silk skull at the top and the adaptive height is that on the silk skull, the mess at the top is caused by the top surface showing up which isn't as shiny as the sides. The adaptive layer height would help but not as much as it appears to have helped on the matte skull. Silk PLA is so annoying to deal with because of stuff like this that I've given up on printing with it altogether.
Great video Matt.
Many thanks!
main thing I don't like about bambu slicer is not being able to select infill color
These new sticky plates (BIQU Cryogrip Frostbite, Supertack, SliceWorx, KDeavi etc) aren't "Cold" plates. They're basically all the same, a coated PEI plate meant to have far superior bed adhesion. one benefit to them all is you can get strong bed adhesion at a slightly lower bed temp than a standard textured PEI plate.
Cryo plates are polyurea, relative of truck bed liner, been around before, catch apparently that they can get too grippy and end up with bits permanently stuck to them.
Have printed many 150% Dummy 13 successfully. I've read that the joints do not scale up well, but there are remixes with modified joints out there to try.
It isn't practical for me to get a orange giga right now but for sure it's on the list. I love printing big. Working on a SW battle droid I purchased off Cults.
The upcoming Eryone Thinker X400 might interest you. I'm hoping the price will be surprisingly low. Not that I don't want Tinkers here to get affiliate clicks. ;)
I used petg for the Dummy 13 toys. My understanding was that it was a better choice because it's not as brittle so the parts flex a little better when snapping together. I've only done 3 sets so take that for what it's worth.
I really like the look of those skulls. The adaptive layer height really works well.
Your laser should etch those coasters pretty easily. I etched some with a 5 watt laser. If you find it's not as dark as you want just do another pass. As long as you don't move it you should be able to just burn over the existing pattern. Another thing you can do in lightburn is a Material Test grid. It will burn small squares at different speeds and power settings. Then you just pick the speed/power setting that gives you the best results. It will mean you are sacrificing a tile but you will always have it as a reference for future burns.
Binging your videos staying up late and another new one drops. Nice.
if you assemble that Dummy 13 grease those ball joints and thank me later, on that orange storm giga mayby if there is some demand you could print the star wars millenium falcon
My appeal to the SuperTack was adhesion and lower temp for longevity of the bed heating system…..fail on both. I only managed to get the Supetack success by not using the SuperTack profile and using smooth PEI plate. I did a range from 35-70 I think with the SuperTack profile and they all failed.
I think my 2 SuperTack plates will go to the ocean to join your failed prints.😊
I’ve printed several Dummy 13s. I use ABS for the skeleton and PLA or ABS for the armor. They are great, the kids love them. I really like them as well. Can’t believe what the 27 inch one is selling for. Guess I should stop giving them away.
Do the kit card for the robot, scale it for the giga and let it eat!
With blowing up the Dummy. Test some joints larger before doing the whole thing. Just to make sure you don’t have issues with the articulation being too loose.
we here ... good Morning
“Retired crisis actor” 😂😅😂😂.
Keep up the great videos!
I was wondering, if you did fuzzyskin on the front grill it night not look like a 3D printed and be fancy. I did door handles for a barn door and light switch/outlet covers using fuzzy skin and it turned out like store bought and has heft. Custom making with multicolour lilghtswitch over with names for kids room or for a panel what switch does what. That could be a good revenue stream
Hello Mr. Retired Lips Model ❤
The skunk is Ms. Technical Stinkers
Bro I thought that was the Sabrina online skunk girl for a moment what a flashbang
I don’t know how accurate this is, so take it with a grain of salt. But I have heard other RUclipsrs pronounce the brand as Bee Queue… BQ
The trick with Stinkerette .. I'm assuming you started with a black model, and painted the white sections.... Do it the other way... Start with an all white model, and paint the black sections... That way all the infill, except for where you painted black, will be white, resulting in less of that color bleed you saw at the top.
Brilliant. I think i did start with her all black because filling the non-black sections was bleeding through too easily. a lot of the edges aren't sharp enough to be detected
The only distracting thing is your outfit of a Yehova witness.
Failure rate is pretty low... quality getting a lot higher... your going to have to drop the "novice" in your intro. That Biqui looks looks good and grippy... no excuse for using brim with that.
NOOO PAUL
If I stop saying i'm a newb normie people will start to expect me to do things correctly!
congrats, you're a furry now