I use only the NC-559. I buy in large quantity and then fill in syringe. Rest I keep in the fridge, the flux does not change at the color or consistance, always stays like new. So if you do not solder every day, only occasionally, in the fridge the flux stays fresh longer.
If you understand german you're in luck, because this man does exelent repair videoes. I don't understand a word he says but ùi still watch. i wish he tries w/ english
Amtech is the best, no matter which one you use. Northridge only use the best equipment and accessories. That's what makes a business thrive. Using only the best, makes a job easy, and better than factory. Great job Alex
Hi, I just realized the powerful features of NC-559 and proved it in this video. It may be a key factor for you to consider between 559 and 213. As you can see in the video, 559 has a very special function. It starts to boil and release bubbles during the heating process. I find that the solder usually melt much faster with this function. 213 remains stable and dry out throughout the process and do not boost the speed. 559 can prevent the components from heating for a long time. I find this is a huge advantage of using NC-559, it can help you complete your work faster. Another advantage of 559 is viscosity. After liquefied by hot air, the component floats on the flux. The surface tension of 559 seems to be designed to auto-align the component with the center of the pad. When I use tweezers to push the component, the component slides move in a predictable way due to the adequate damping of the flux. The component will not slide too far or change direction violently. I tried to compare it with the fake one flux, I found that the viscosity of fake one is too thin and it is not suitable for hot air soldering. The component floating has no centering ability and always moved by the hot air. When I try to align the component by tweezers slightly, the component always slide violently or rotate badly. The fake one makes my job harder. If you need to use hot air soldering, NC-559 will be your best choice.
Sir you are the definition of a stakanovista person, working every sunday and upload video every days. I really appreciate your contents. Keep up the great work.
كيفك يا استاز تسلم على المحتوى الي بتقدمو شي رهيب وعم بفيدنا في مجال الصيانه بصراحه بس عم بلاحظ نوعية السولدر الي عندك يبدو انو بيخلو من الفلكس لانو شفت وانت عم تشتغل عم بجبل معك ممكن تفيدنا ليش هيك
Build a man a fire and you will keep him warm for the night. Set that man on fire and you will keep him warm for a lifetime ... 🤔 let's stick with the fish metaphor.
Comparison between two flux explained very well with practical knowledge I really liked it though you made one video about this before but you still made this one for people having questions this one is really great quality of yours.
Alex you knwo why we love you so much bro ...... cus you always take from ur precious time to gave us som good advise for free instead of doing ur work .... even you alwyas said Time = Mony in ur job.... حفظك الله و رعاك اخي الغالي.
I have a lot of various fluxes and i find 3 years old Amtech 559 and it still works fine. I compare it with new fresh 559 and the old one just have less viscosity, but still works fine after 3 years.
Totally agree with you. Obviously, it's not that easy to clean once the flux getting cold and this is normal ( for both of types), but the most important thing to understand that the 213 is designed to work with areas crowded with micro components than the 559 which is designed to work with the bigger components. Again.. Awesome video, keep the good work up.
Its not about which one cleans better its about which one stays on the board longer. When you apply hot air to bigger components, 213 will fly away quickly before chip is removed while 559 will stay for longer so you can remove chip properly. In tight spots thinner flux works better while on bigger components thick flux is better
Hmm, so 213 is more fluid so it make sense to me that it also may vaporise more quickly and that process consumes a lot of energy which leads that less energy is transferred to the components. On the other side when 559 is burned there is more residue left. In general hot air leads to less burning because the heat is distributed over a wider area while with a soldering iron the heat is applied much more dense. So I would say 213 seems to be better for using it with a soldering iron so there is less residue while 559 seems to be better in combination with hot air so it vaporises slower.
My 559 bucket is now 3 years old, still works perfectly fine :D I think 559 makes the biggest difference when you work in one area for a long time, e.g. when fixing traces or soldering wires to a lot of solder points. "SDG Electronics" made a good video comparing a lot of different flux brands. In the end it doesn't really matter that much, but i'll stay with 559 for now.
I have some Amtech flux that expired in 2019, still using it. Certainly not as effective as new, but it still works. Have to clean up and reapply more often cause it burns quicker.
I was worried about using flux as only do component repair rarely and thought would end up wasting most of it as would'nt be fresh the next time came to use it. This gives me confidence I will still be able to use it after sitting their for a while.
Love that Amtech! I live in extreme poverty and have to make my own solder out of pine rosin straight from the tree. It's beautiful clear yellow and diluted with alcohol and acetone and works okay but does not have the stability and reliability of Amtech and I see Amtech resists browning and burning longer and is more protective.
Really interesting and very very nice compare. I think 559 stays a bit longer at the component or on the board. It was really good to see while you remove those two chips. But i think the different is on a very very low level. I use 559 for all jobs, clean it with alcohol and perfect. But i really thank you for this video.
What if you accidentally forget to clean and the old flux dries? When it is discolored orange/brown and hardened it is not easy to clean at all. For some hobby repairs I used to use Oatey H-20 water soluble paste flux from Home Depot which is almost a beige color now after 7 years. More recently earlier at beginning of this year bought Keister 186 Soldering flux which is a liquid from CML Supply last year. Wish I knew about Amtek 559. Thank you Alex for the video!
Any flux better than no flux. I had my first soldering gun 42 years ago and used tens kind of solder paste (or flux nowadays) so far. We had to find the good one by try and fail method, but today we're lucky that Alex is teaching us.
Nice follow-up on the previous comparison. I was stunned to see the "Almost 1,5 year old" Flux to be working quite well and I think it's a good idea to test how far it degrades over time. Maybe use it every 6 months just for testing.
I have old RadioShack rosin soldering flux that I know is over 12 years old and it still works fine and cleanup was no problem. I just replaced a 32 pin FPC connector without any issues. I'm not sure if there is a shelf life on flux. I don't solder that much, so having to buy new solder when I need to repair something doesn't make sense.
17:24 Old Flux seems to have dryed a lot faster than the fresh one, when applying heat. See the light reflections! But functionally speaking, Alex must be right! It'll do the job aswell. Or maybe it's only the air speed that moved the flux far from camera and created the effect of dryness. But other than that, seems very functional both! Good job Alex
Can you please do another quick video of your new equipment? Specially on your power supply. Microscope. Flirt. Your sordering stations and so on... Will be much appreciated. Super fan and customer
@@marcianzero_yt marcain0 read my text properly... "Anther quick video" ... sure I know he made some in the past but now he got new equipment so the idea is to make one nice full video with the equipment.
@@theobuiatti6420 You ask for another video on new equipment and list the scope and the FLIR. Twice.They are as already presented in the past, because Alex has used the same equipment for ages. Which is why I hint at the old content. I don't understand what news you expect. But you may request content any day. I don't really want to argue. And of course there is probably other equipment that has not covered where the request is more relevant (This is my personal opinion only, of course.) Take care and have a good day. I wish you the best. :)
I saw a previous video where you were removing the HDMI connector and I could see the flux was burning in areas and turning brown, but not other areas. I wasn't sure if it was the heat, amount of time in the area, or if old flux was simply mixing in. Speaking of HDMI, I see you mix low melt, remove the connector, wick it away, and install new. Couldn't you simply wick away the solder off the legs, since you are going to do that anyway? And not use the low melt? Or would that not work? I learn so much from your videos, THANK YOU so much!
The Pro like you Alex can see a difference between flux types.For casual tinkering any of them can do the job,even old rosin.Yes new types of flux don`t smoke so much,can be better cleaned and all of this just save your time and you can be more effective.
Older flux also works just fine. It may work less efficient or has other disadvantage, but as a hobbyist I do not see anything serious issue with them.
I am addicted to your videos, If you could do a video on temperature control and what temperatures to use for different solders would be much appreciated
I think 213 through is better for us normal soldering humans. I've been soldering for years and it's always a pain clean the board of sticky brown 559. You make them both look good because you're god tier when it comes to soldering.
I'm still using my 559 flux from 2019 with no problems at all. In hindsight I'd have ordered a smaller syringe as I am only halfway through the 30cc one. I wish there was UK distributor for Amtech that I could trust. The ebay stuff is usually fake (hard to clean) garbage.
Good comparison and as you stated there is not much difference. but if you are a heavy flux user on doing daily more repairs, i thing the 559 is still more preferable while it may last longer and makes it easier to repair while lasting longer on board.
I use only the NC-559. I buy in large quantity and then fill in syringe.
Rest I keep in the fridge, the flux does not change at the color or consistance, always stays like new.
So if you do not solder every day, only occasionally, in the fridge the flux stays fresh longer.
That’s good to know. Thank you
If you understand german you're in luck, because this man does exelent repair videoes. I don't understand a word he says but ùi still watch.
i wish he tries w/ english
I think I'll do that with mine; makes sense.
Will it not contaminate food? Also should be kept in the freezer or just in the normal food area
My flux I keep in my cupboard at room temperature for over 3 years now and apart from a slight color change, it works just fine. thanks for the video!
Amtech is the best, no matter which one you use. Northridge only use the best equipment and accessories. That's what makes a business thrive. Using only the best, makes a job easy, and better than factory. Great job Alex
Hi, I just realized the powerful features of NC-559 and proved it in this video. It may be a key factor for you to consider between 559 and 213. As you can see in the video, 559 has a very special function. It starts to boil and release bubbles during the heating process. I find that the solder usually melt much faster with this function. 213 remains stable and dry out throughout the process and do not boost the speed. 559 can prevent the components from heating for a long time. I find this is a huge advantage of using NC-559, it can help you complete your work faster.
Another advantage of 559 is viscosity. After liquefied by hot air, the component floats on the flux. The surface tension of 559 seems to be designed to auto-align the component with the center of the pad. When I use tweezers to push the component, the component slides move in a predictable way due to the adequate damping of the flux. The component will not slide too far or change direction violently.
I tried to compare it with the fake one flux, I found that the viscosity of fake one is too thin and it is not suitable for hot air soldering. The component floating has no centering ability and always moved by the hot air. When I try to align the component by tweezers slightly, the component always slide violently or rotate badly. The fake one makes my job harder.
If you need to use hot air soldering, NC-559 will be your best choice.
Sometimes it's difficult to prove the points, but u did the great job. I appreciate you for your efforts in making videos.
Sir you are the definition of a stakanovista person, working every sunday and upload video every days.
I really appreciate your contents.
Keep up the great work.
Good you took time out to explain for those who were confused. Thank you.
Good to know the differences even if ever so slight. Thank you for the video Alex.
Give a man a fish and feed him for a day, teach a man to fish and feed him for a lifetime. Thank you Alex for sharing your knowledge. 💪
كيفك يا استاز تسلم على المحتوى الي بتقدمو شي رهيب وعم بفيدنا في مجال الصيانه بصراحه
بس عم بلاحظ نوعية السولدر الي عندك يبدو انو بيخلو من الفلكس لانو شفت وانت عم تشتغل عم بجبل معك ممكن تفيدنا ليش هيك
Build a man a fire and you will keep him warm for the night. Set that man on fire and you will keep him warm for a lifetime ... 🤔 let's stick with the fish metaphor.
@@HazeAnderson 😂😂
That's it..
Buy a man a Corvette and he will crash it. Teach the man how to drive first and he will know red light means stop 🛑
Watching all your videos makes me want to fix some of my broken devices. awesome content and information. keep them coming.
Alex, thanks for your time mate. This was really knowledgeable and useful stuff.
Comparison between two flux explained very well with practical knowledge I really liked it though you made one video about this before but you still made this one for people having questions this one is really great quality of yours.
Alex you knwo why we love you so much bro ...... cus you always take from ur precious time to gave us som good advise for free instead of doing ur work .... even you alwyas said Time = Mony in ur job.... حفظك الله و رعاك اخي الغالي.
Thanks for the valuable time you spent on this video instead of repairing the millions of pending graphic cards repairs. 😇
We really appreciate it 👌
You could always do it yourself, right? I'll say it for him....
I have a lot of various fluxes and i find 3 years old Amtech 559 and it still works fine. I compare it with new fresh 559 and the old one just have less viscosity, but still works fine after 3 years.
Totally agree with you. Obviously, it's not that easy to clean once the flux getting cold and this is normal ( for both of types), but the most important thing to understand that the 213 is designed to work with areas crowded with micro components than the 559 which is designed to work with the bigger components.
Again.. Awesome video, keep the good work up.
😊😊😊
Its not about which one cleans better its about which one stays on the board longer. When you apply hot air to bigger components, 213 will fly away quickly before chip is removed while 559 will stay for longer so you can remove chip properly. In tight spots thinner flux works better while on bigger components thick flux is better
Me, a person who does not have soldering skill this video is very helpful!
Thank you alex for showing us the similarity and differences of that flux
Good vid, very difficult to prove in one or two passes, but we trust your years experience on using it and your advice based on that!
Great presentation of the lecture video, thanks Mr Alex learning from your experience everyday
Thank you for taking the time out of your busy schedule to make this video!
Daily NorthridgeFix content 👌
Hmm, so 213 is more fluid so it make sense to me that it also may vaporise more quickly and that process consumes a lot of energy which leads that less energy is transferred to the components. On the other side when 559 is burned there is more residue left. In general hot air leads to less burning because the heat is distributed over a wider area while with a soldering iron the heat is applied much more dense.
So I would say 213 seems to be better for using it with a soldering iron so there is less residue while 559 seems to be better in combination with hot air so it vaporises slower.
My 559 bucket is now 3 years old, still works perfectly fine :D
I think 559 makes the biggest difference when you work in one area for a long time, e.g. when fixing traces or soldering wires to a lot of solder points. "SDG Electronics" made a good video comparing a lot of different flux brands. In the end it doesn't really matter that much, but i'll stay with 559 for now.
Thanks for making my sunday better.
Always learning from the teacher
I use chinese rosin flux and I struggle with it..so I've decided to go with amtech based on your videos We trust your judgement on these things!
I have some Amtech flux that expired in 2019, still using it. Certainly not as effective as new, but it still works. Have to clean up and reapply more often cause it burns quicker.
Thank you for your time and effort uploading excellent videos for our education, it has improved my skills tremendous.
I was worried about using flux as only do component repair rarely and thought would end up wasting most of it as would'nt be fresh the next time came to use it. This gives me confidence I will still be able to use it after sitting their for a while.
I've learned a great deal from you Alex. Thank you for the knowledge and blessings to you and your family.
Alex, thanks for your time and knowlege sharing
Great demonstration of both fluxes.
Thank you
This is real explanation batter than factory and also old one video
Love that Amtech! I live in extreme poverty and have to make my own solder out of pine rosin straight from the tree. It's beautiful clear yellow and diluted with alcohol and acetone and works okay but does not have the stability and reliability of Amtech and I see Amtech resists browning and burning longer and is more protective.
Learning Something New in Each Video.
Really interesting and very very nice compare. I think 559 stays a bit longer at the component or on the board. It was really good to see while you remove those two chips. But i think the different is on a very very low level.
I use 559 for all jobs, clean it with alcohol and perfect.
But i really thank you for this video.
Wow great stuff.... you are really listening to your audiences !!! Good job.
What if you accidentally forget to clean and the old flux dries? When it is discolored orange/brown and hardened it is not easy to clean at all.
For some hobby repairs I used to use Oatey H-20 water soluble paste flux from Home Depot which is almost a beige color now after 7 years. More recently earlier at beginning of this year bought Keister 186 Soldering flux which is a liquid from CML Supply last year. Wish I knew about Amtek 559. Thank you Alex for the video!
Any flux better than no flux. I had my first soldering gun 42 years ago and used tens kind of solder paste (or flux nowadays) so far. We had to find the good one by try and fail method, but today we're lucky that Alex is teaching us.
Nice follow-up on the previous comparison. I was stunned to see the "Almost 1,5 year old" Flux to be working quite well and I think it's a good idea to test how far it degrades over time. Maybe use it every 6 months just for testing.
Thank you for the extra clarity
I have old RadioShack rosin soldering flux that I know is over 12 years old and it still works fine and cleanup was no problem. I just replaced a 32 pin FPC connector without any issues. I'm not sure if there is a shelf life on flux. I don't solder that much, so having to buy new solder when I need to repair something doesn't make sense.
Thanks for the info. I was just about to replace my old 559 flux thinking it was no good.
Thank you for the additional information. Always helpful.
very useful videos day by day thanks Alex
17:24 Old Flux seems to have dryed a lot faster than the fresh one, when applying heat. See the light reflections! But functionally speaking, Alex must be right! It'll do the job aswell.
Or maybe it's only the air speed that moved the flux far from camera and created the effect of dryness.
But other than that, seems very functional both! Good job Alex
Can you please do another quick video of your new equipment?
Specially on your power supply. Microscope. Flirt. Your sordering stations and so on... Will be much appreciated.
Super fan and customer
The Microscope and the FLIR are Not at all New. Videos exist already… Search the Channel.
@@marcianzero_yt marcain0 read my text properly... "Anther quick video" ... sure I know he made some in the past but now he got new equipment so the idea is to make one nice full video with the equipment.
same
@@theobuiatti6420 You ask for another video on new equipment and list the scope and the FLIR. Twice.They are as already presented in the past, because Alex has used the same equipment for ages. Which is why I hint at the old content. I don't understand what news you expect. But you may request content any day. I don't really want to argue.
And of course there is probably other equipment that has not covered where the request is more relevant (This is my personal opinion only, of course.)
Take care and have a good day. I wish you the best. :)
Thank you Alex for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for your time 😊
Alex, very good explanation. Thanks.
I saw a previous video where you were removing the HDMI connector and I could see the flux was burning in areas and turning brown, but not other areas. I wasn't sure if it was the heat, amount of time in the area, or if old flux was simply mixing in. Speaking of HDMI, I see you mix low melt, remove the connector, wick it away, and install new. Couldn't you simply wick away the solder off the legs, since you are going to do that anyway? And not use the low melt? Or would that not work? I learn so much from your videos, THANK YOU so much!
Thank you for the fair comparison!!
Thanks for your humanity and your lessons and knowledge sharing
I was waiting for a video like this... thanks to share us
awesome explanation & comparison ! always enjoy watching
Always Love to watch your Videos....
The Pro like you Alex can see a difference between flux types.For casual tinkering any of them can do the job,even old rosin.Yes new types of flux don`t smoke so much,can be better cleaned and all of this just save your time and you can be more effective.
thanks 4 the todays tips about the different types of fluxs ;its great jog
Thanks for your time ..
Fair comparison and I now like both!
Thanks you for sharing your valuable knowledge with us....
Great Sir keep educating us 🙏🏼
Older flux also works just fine. It may work less efficient or has other disadvantage, but as a hobbyist I do not see anything serious issue with them.
Thanks for your proceless lessons
Thanks for clarifying Alex
I am addicted to your videos, If you could do a video on temperature control and what temperatures to use for different solders would be much appreciated
Now I know the difference between 559 vs 213. Great video. Thank you.
very in depth, thank you for this!
That is good to know old amtech flux still usable and doesn't lose any quality.
Really informative,I learn a lot from each video...Bravoo Alex...keep it up
I still use a nearly 2 year old big tube 559 and it works, no need to throw it away
Can you show us how to use the power injection tool and maybe give us some tips and tricks
Thank you for sharing flux knowhow.
I've learned a great deal from you Alex thanks
Always good explanation about things
I love this channel, learned so much from Alex.
Is he alex or tony ?
Useful explanation about the difference between the 558 and 213 flux.... 😊
I think 213 through is better for us normal soldering humans. I've been soldering for years and it's always a pain clean the board of sticky brown 559. You make them both look good because you're god tier when it comes to soldering.
Thanks for sharing your experience
No matter what flux you using or even if you don't use at all you do the job better than factory 😎
Great demonstration 👍
I'm still using my 559 flux from 2019 with no problems at all. In hindsight I'd have ordered a smaller syringe as I am only halfway through the 30cc one. I wish there was UK distributor for Amtech that I could trust. The ebay stuff is usually fake (hard to clean) garbage.
Always something to learn
Tips on tip tinning ?
Very helpful details, thank you Alex
Very Good explanation and practical demonstration thanks Alex 👍🙂
Comprehensive explanation thanks for sharing
Gaining more knowledge here. Thanks bos.
Extremely deep video and valuable thanks 🙏
Good comparison and as you stated there is not much difference. but if you are a heavy flux user on doing daily more repairs, i thing the 559 is still more preferable while it may last longer and makes it easier to repair while lasting longer on board.
Thanks for your videos. I am learning
Awesome as always
Good you took time out to explain, This was really knowledgeable and useful stuff, thank you for this!
You are the best specialist. which microscope are you using?
Still have two unused 2 years old original NC-559-V2-TF syringes in shelf - those was quite pricey. Seems they should be fine.
Thanks for the video bout difference of amtech 213 & 559 i learned a lot about them thanks sir alex!
Was the older flux simply more dried out, from the jar having been opened? What happens if you add a small amount of alcohol to thin it?
Very good video. When we are talking about flux, it would be great if you can make also video how do you care of your soldering tips.