You'd be wise to run it off a battery with a trickle charger instead of a converter. You could have serious trouble if you have a power failure. These are designed to shutdown properly if the battery voltage should get too low but not if the voltage is suddenly removed. Think of it this way these are designed to be operated in vehicles.
Nice write up on your diesel heater install experience. I also use a diesel heater to heat the topper on my truck. Works great. Like others, I have some suggestions on your installation. 1) You might try using a heavier gauge wire between your Jackery and heater. The voltage drop due to thinner wires may be causing the heater to pull more current than necessary. Can't tell for sure what size wire you are using, but it looked small. I would suggest 10 or 12 awg wire and cut the cord from the cigarette lighter plug as short as possible. 2) I understand the exhaust setup shown is just temporary, but for the permanent install, the muffler has (or should have) a drip hole on the side opposite the mounting hole. This should be placed down so that any fuel or condensation can drip out. 3) Somebody else already mentioned this, but I also prefer having the air intake come from the outside to minimize condensation. There is a hit on heating, but having less condensation is worth it. At least for me. Keep up the great work!
Exact same setup, like someone else recommended, I put the foam mats from harbor freight on my entire floor then a large rug I had, made a big difference. Great video, thanks for your review.
Great information! I'd offer two suggestions for your setup, for your start power issue, get a small 12V battery (I use the little 15AH type, sized similar to an electric start generator battery) and a battery tender/trickle charger you can connect to the Jackery, the battery will provide the amperage needed to get the heater running and the Jackery will keep the charge topped off with little amp draw. Second to address the pump noise, I've found wrapping the fuel line with self adhesive foam tape, especially anywhere the fuel line may wrack against hard structures of the cabinet, can really quiet these heaters down a lot. Best of luck with your setup! Thanks for sharing your experience.
I plan to power a heater with my Jackery this seems like a good workaround. Would you be able to have the battery charger and heater’s power wires connected to the terminals on the battery at the same time? Would I need a fuse board off the battery? I’m new to this
@@Kscanlon22 Yes, it's not a problem having your heater running off a 12V battery that is also connected to a smart charger that is plugged into a 120V outlet. AND Yes, you should protect the circuit from the battery to the heater with a fuse, a simple inline 15 amp fuse will suffice.
@@Kscanlon22 All of these heaters need to perform a shutdown procedure to burn off unspent fuel and clean the atomizing screen in the ignition chamber and they will run the fan for a few minutes to cool the heat exchanger portion of the heater, the cool down cycle is critical to protecting the ECU. If you do not have a guaranteed ability (such that a battery will provide) to allow the system to cool itself down before powering off, the residual heat in the unit can cause the electronic control unit (ECU) to become overheated (damaging the printed circuitry), rendering it useless and requiring replacement of the ECU.
In short, any unexpected interruption of the 120V power to the inverter will potentially damage the ECU making your heater unusable until repaired and lead to fouling of the ignition system which may make re-starting the unit a challenge.
Running it off a motorcycle battery with a trickle charger is a great way to power these heaters. You should never do a hard shutdown; this would happen if you had a power outage. The battery prevents this from happening. I have mine mounted in a hard plastic tote box that’s insulated. The exhaust exits the box using a through haul vent designed for boats, the heat from exhaust line keeps the inside of the box warm. The battery and trickle charge are mounted in the box so they are warm as well. Works great
Put a house radiator as part of the exhaust, and you will get to use the exhaust to add heat in your office. Thst or make a coil of tubing into a bucket,.open air or in a wood burning stove and run the exhaust through that before dumping it outside will make better use of your fuel. This way your exhast heat will radiate off the coils or radiator and the blown heat can be pointed to cross the room or warm the floor. They way you have it throws away half the heat that heater makes.
You nailed what others don't mention keeping the unit inside for the heat exchanger to work effectively. Thanks for the video, thorough review, and explanation..
Wow! That fuel pump is really loud. I recently purchased a Wippro brand heater like yours based on a review on RUclips. It's very quiet with just a soft ticking in the background. I believe the pump is well insulated from the chassis compared to other brands. Very informative video!
Same here with the Maxspeedingrods.....almost silent. However, I do have hearing issues. When I first ran it outside I had to put my ear near the unit to make certain it was pumping.
Old computer power supply is a great way to run these. I personally have a car battery with small battery charger attached. Be sure to have the exhaust at a slight downward grade to allow any condensate to be able to drain to the outside.
Thank you finally someone addressed this issue i was wondering why my diesel heater would shut off using that plug, i just went with the ac to dc power adapter and it works fine plugging it into that, hopefully vevor does fix that issue. Thanks for the content!
It's not a vevor issue, it's a diesel heater issue as a whole so it won't be changed anytime soon. It would be easier for jackery, anker, ecoflow, etc to bump up their power ratings to 15A than it would to get random chinese companies to lessen their power consumption on start up.
Interesting video. I have an 8kw Hcalory portable diesel heater and I have an ecoflow river max and ecoflow mini portable power station and both power the heater perfect. On start up the diesel heater draws around 120 watts for the 1st couple of minutes and once it fires up and starts to run on diesel it drops down to around 6 watts around the same as charging a phone and would then run continuously for days. As you've demonstrated there is definitely a problem with the set up your testing on start up. My set up must demand less power or the ecoflow just puts out more amps than the jackery. Absolutely love your videos. Watched them for a while now. Great content.
Very good explanation of the pros and cons. I had considered getting one , but winter camping is on a whole other level as far as food,fuel,and comfort.
I run mine on a Jackery 300. All you need to do is put a bigger fuse in the actual DC plug that comes out of the diesel heater. With a 300 you can only run it for about 3 1/2 four hours and a full tank of diesel will get you about eight hours of run time.
Thanks for your review. Great points. I have a Vevor (5wk) all in one unit for my Van and it blast me out on low setting. I wrapped my exhaust pipe and purchased a 90 deg. fitting (From Amazon) for the exhaust pipe because it hard to bent the pipe to fit the unit. Wrapping the pipe is just safer too. Can't go wrong with the Vevor unit.
For anyone who has a drafty cold area, point the heater output towards that area, it's a game changer. Might need to experiment, but never assume pointing the outlet at yourself is the best way, it may very well not be. Spent the last 3 years thinking the wrong way and my brother pointed it at the draftiest area and it's been way warmer now.
Thanks for the review, that certainly was thorough look at that heater set up and operation. I was browsing Walmart on-line and saw this heater and was wondering what it was about.👍
I get what you are talking about when you say the floor radiates COLD. BUT... I am a HVAC tech. I have to choose my words carefully to not offend anyone. So I will do my best not to offend you and hopefully educate you. This is just to help you understand the difference between heat and cold. Cold is just the absence of heat. Same as during the day and the sun heats up the earth. At night is gets colder. Heat always moves to the coldest object. Your floor has very little heat in it. Once heated up it can then release its heat (radiate) to a colder object. It can't radiate cold. Great video by the way and thank you. I hope I didn't offend you.
I saw a review of this heater on another channel. The exhaust pipe got hot enough to scorch wood, so be careful with it. I would not be able to tolerate the constant loud knocking of the pump.
True. Exhaust pipe gets hot and connection under unit is very hot. I purchased a 90 degree connector and wrapped the pipe twice with high temp tape. Works great and safer.
The combustion air intake doesn't have to come from outside of the heated area. You can do that if you do desire, but the inside/ outside placement has no effect on the unit. The air being heated and blown into your room is not coming from that 1" intake tube, it's being drawn into the unit housing and forced across the heat exchanger and out the 3" discharge tube. Some may argue that pulling in combustion air from inside of the heated building will force negative pressure in the heated area and cause outside cold air to be pulled in. While there is truth to that, it's very minimal and to pull in some fresh air from outside is not necessarily a bad idea. I have my entire unit mounted outside of the building and only run the 3" heat pipe into the building. This makes the unit silent aside from the slight key engine sound of the air flow. I'm using 2 8k Hcalory units in a 20'x20' 2 story camp. At 45°F i can run only 1 unit at level 3 to maintain 70°-72°F. If it gets cooler than mid to upper 40s, i can fire up the second unit and run both on level 1 or 2 and get almost 3 days from the 2 gallon tanks.
I use a 600 watt transformer 120/240 VAC to 12volt DC constant output !works perfectly. Im getting 11.8 to 11.9 and a viktage drop to 11.4 due to my 100 ft 16 gauge ext cord.
I run mine outside and have the the hot air ducted inside. Diesel runs more efficiently in cooler air and i run it on 2hz or less. Also my fuel pump is very quite. I have an all in one by wippro. I have it hardwired to the coach lithium batteries so power is no problem. Have also ran it all night on my vtoman 1500 watt power station no problem. I use to heat up my 25ft class C RV and it's way better than the built in propane furnace.
I didn't see anyone else mention this. The main reason you draw air from outside is to avoid creating negative pressure in your heated area. If you pull air from inside and send it outside air will come in from every tiny crack in your structure. This air will be cold and lower your efficiency.
Floor: Apply some 2” foam board insulation over the concrete. No need to glue down. Cover foam board with plywood. No glue. Done. Insulate ceiling next. With 2x6 framing you can get up to R21 batts. Could also put foam boards on Ceiling instead of Sheetrock.
If I had to guess the reason it doesn’t completely shut off is because it would have to kick up the amps to fire up those glow plugs. Been looking at one of these. I’d like to install one in my travel trailer. Biggest issue is the fuel tank. So I’m going back and forth on either a unit like this one, or the older types wit the separate fuel tanks. Those Vevor items seem to be built pretty good. Thank you for the video.
installed in enclosed trailer.removed tank.fuel shut off with drip line into plastic bottle for disconnect. sits on top of unit strapped down with bungie. keep in old tool box for transport. no spilt fuel in trailer .exhaust goes through aluminum pipe and conduit double male connector.
I could be wrong but I believe all these Chinese heaters are made at the same factory in China and stamped with different names. I just purchased 3 ChuBu Diesel Heater All In One 5KW/8KW 12V-24V for $99 each, they look and function identically. Looking at the specifications, I see no difference.
I purposely have my diesel heater heating cold outside air and forcing it inside because I wanted to bring in dry cold air to heat, and force out any warm moist air inside through leakage. I will take the hit on the efficiency to keep things dry. I can see in an area where you do not plan on sleeping or cooking where this would be less of a concern.
Yes, I also would be concerned about the exhaust possibly leaking into sleeping space. Its not worth it for the sake of efficiency to risk your health or maybe even life! Have the entire unit outside and duct the heat in.
Hi Jason, if I might, I’d like to make a couple of suggestions. As far as what the capabilities are; I have a 12X24’ portable building on my property and I’m using a similar diesel parking heater in it. Temperatures here in the winter are often in the teens and on the colder days in the teens I can get up to 60*f plus. Insulation is key so once you do that that heater will be able to drive you out of that small space! I would suggest using an inverter for the power supply, backed up by your Jackery and I’ll explain that in a bit. The inverters are inexpensive and are 110V AC to 12V DC and are available in 15 amp DC output. Since you have AC power there it shouldn’t be a problem. I would also use the Jackery as backup ie in parallel with the inverter for safety reasons. If you have even a momentary AC power glitch, the heater will shut down hot, especially if was on high at the time and the fan not being able to remove the heat sink from the unit can actually partially melt things such as the circuit board, fuel lines etc…ask me how I know. Also those cold no starts will eventually carbon up the burn chamber which will require cleaning. Also you don’t have to pull the 14*f cold air from outside and that will help as the space warms up. Your office space does not appear to be air tight by any means plus the combustion air requirements for those diesel heaters is tiny. Also the inverter voltage is adjustable so it can be set just a tad above the Jackery and there will be no draw on it at all. Leave a comment if you need more information and we can figure out a way to communicate better via phone or email.
Great information here, I'm setting up one in my shop and find the connection for your exaust interesting. I have 3/4 inch plywood to go thru and if the exaust touches metal and then that metal touches the wood, it burns it. I want to use your idea. I am still concerned that metal will conduct the heat. I ran my exaust thru a larger diameter pipe and that pipe is snug to my hole. I think my issue is its a tight fit and that pipe is getting to 400 plus degrees. There needs to be some kind of space between the pipe and wood or whatever it's attached to in my opinion. Hopefully this makes sense. Just looking for a way to do it right. With the appropriate pieces of equipment Suggestions please.
I installed a Chinese Diesel heater in my 6x12 cargo trailer conversion... I spent all my effort making sure I properly exhausted the unit through my 1 inch insulated wall using a thru-hull stainless outlet as well as using high-temp RTV around my exhaust hose with high quality hose clamps, and thought everything was great.. I now know that I need to also properly setup a thru-hull port for the combustion intake (away from the exhaust). These devices are primitive.. don't trust that the exhaust flow will happen in one direction with 100% certainty... and don't expect your Home Depot CO detector to save you either.. I've smelled the funky smell, and let it go... and it made me pretty sick.. Don't ignore it... do it right.
That's a good point... it is good to set it up in a way where all the air moves where it should, and doesn't reverse. I'm curious if you are feeding it air from outside? Would it make any difference if the air intake is set higher or lower than the exhaust?
Nice challenge to insulate the room so well it warms itself up. He's 100W, and the lights, laptop and screen say, 40W. You can get heat exhanger ventilation now, but I've doubts about them regarding dampness and mould build up. In the shop might have sparks from angle grinders etc, so can't just use polystyrene, they invented drywall for a reason.
Check with the manufacturer or with another "standard" manufacturer on the maximum length of the exhaust tubing. If you get too long, it will affect the back pressure being exhausted. If the burner cannot exhaust effectively, it's not gonna burn properly. You could be opening yourself up for some issues.
That thing uses 120W max at its highest and ~30 W when fully heated. So basically 10A is the max it'll draw. The problem is the battery pack isn't able to maintain the amperage for long and is kicking on its safety circuitry to not overheat.
HI JASON 👋 THANK YOU FOR SHOWING ME / US HOW YOU'RE SETTING UP YOUR DIESEL HEATER & THE PROBLEMS YOU CAME ACROSS. PLUS TRYING TO FIGURE / FIX THEM 🤔 HOPE YOU & FAMILY , FRIENDS HAD A GREAT HAPPY THANKSGIVING DAY 🦃 😊 ❤BE SAFE ! HAVE FUN ! ENJOYED 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 GOD BLESS YOU BOTH / ALL ALWAYS ON YOUR ADVENTURES 🙏 HOPE YOU ALL HAVE A GREAT MERRY CHRISTMAS 🎅 🎄& HAPPY NEW YEAR TOO 🎉
You are right! but having the Diesel heater inside and taking the cold air outside can cause condensation in cold climates, especially when starting from cold. PS: in really cold weather, they don't work outdoors so it's a catch 22!.
I used a 18v to 12v converter with a milwaukee battery connection (easy find on Amazon) and wired it in. On startup I plug the Milwaukee in and it cuts the draw seen on my Ecoflow Delta Max in half. Once it's running I unplug the Milwaukee and runs fine. I had the same issue if it tripping. No issues now and when camping I could run it all night off Milwaukee if needed... So built in a bit of redundancy.
Sounds like a Jackery problem and not a heater problem. I have a gen 1 Inergy Kodiak that has external terminals that the heater can hook up to directly. I have 2 Vevor heaters now. One is going on 3yrs old and a new Bluetooth model. I replaced both of their power supply cords with 8awg wires and have never seen over 9amps on the coldest startups (Michigan winters). Make sure to use anti-gel treatment for your diesel
Mine clicked only when setting it up. After priming the pump and exiting the prime part, it runs really quiet. Read the distructions! Also, try to not let it run out of fuel or it will need priming again. Good luck!
It's not a great option but you can use a AC to DC converter for 20 bucks, it drains slightly more power that needed but it's not too bad. That's what I have used for the last year without issue.
I just tried my 5kw on my 330w power station, not enough power to run at start up but at least I know it will work. Have had the heater for a couple years and now ready to use with my battery system.
I would also rotate the muffler so that the condensation produced by exhaust can exit out of the weep hole and also I would angle the exhaust so that the muffler is the lowest point of the exhaust so condensation will exit and not run back down the pipe and pool inside.
Haven't read every comment but an easy cheap fix I bougnt an ac to 12v cig converter since most power stations have ac. Still portable and still using roughly the same wattage but you plug the adapter in to the ac on your power station so you can get at least 10 amps to feed your diesel heater. My 12v outlet on my power station never actually supplied 10 amps. It's supposed to be 10 amps according to the manufacturer but on two power stations I get the same thing. Measuring it I noticed it shut down before 100 watts. The adapter allowed me to use AC which doesn't shutdown and the 10 amp adapter works for me but you can find them all the way up to 20 amps if you so desire. I didn't want to carry around another battery just for the heater.
The battery mode requires a direct connection with a battery because the heater will pull more amps than the 12 volt power plug will handle and you will most likely get an error code because the 12 volt battery cable is not getting enough voltage amps to handle the heater. It will over time damage the heater if you continue running it on a 12 volt outlet on the jackery . Just get a battery and a solar panel and solar panel charger
Try doing a rubber mount to the fuel pump that will help it not transfer the sound to the frame and that will help make it more quiet. Also use a tiny atv battery in between the heater and the Jackery and that'll help with the startup\shut down power draw that trips you Jackery
Not going to help much. The clicking is the noise of the pump itself. They use them in semi trucks all the time but mount the fuel pump outside away from the unit and on the tank.
Small 12v utility battery between the Jackery and the heater would keep the battery charged and the extra amperage would come from the battery capacity. You could run it then with just the battery temporarily if needed.
With the right amount of cranking amps. expensive or cheap that is up to you and 3/4inch copper pipe would work for your exhaust pipe extension as well Iv seen on a couple RV installs.
That’s not how these work, the intake goes straight into the combustion chamber and out the exhaust, kind of like a small engine except these have a heating element and the fan blows through it to create the warm air.
Good video. For those afraid to tackle taking these apart to install the exhaust and intake lines, I ordered and used a STREBITO Mini Ratchet Set, 22-Piece 1/4 Ratchet Right Angle Screwdriver. Got it off Amazon for $12. Great little tool that has 36 teeth, meaning you can ratchet it with very small movements in a confined space. I paired that with the NEIKO 10068A Nut Driver Set, $14.95. I have since used it on other projects as well. Everyone should own one of these sets anyway.....they are awesome. Using the listed tools I was able to install the pipes with little to no issue. BTW, using a dremel, I extended the spilt in the pipe an additional 1/8 in. and could probably have extended it a bit further. This allows tightening with a lot less final torque. As for powering your unit, I would use a DC 12V 30A Power Supply 360W Universal Regulated Switching AC to DC Converter sold on Amazon for $20....drop down to 20A and it is like $17. I would go 30A though, I am always for overkill.
Hook up a small 12 volt battery (7ah) in parallel to the supply. You will draw power from the battery on startup then it will charge. You might have to limit the charge current to the battery with a high power low ohm resistor resistor or something else.
I use the Bluetti AC70 and it works perfect with this heater no problem, just something to consider when it comes to power banks and diesel heaters. Also that heat setting doesn't work, have used these for 2 years and they never shut off. Unfortunately the manuals are horrible and there is no real explanation on some of the features.
Nice, I have a different model I am putting in my big rig for a heating source. The box on it is well insulated, and running of a pony tank off the main tank. Should work pretty good.
I don’t know if I would trust one of these for my rig. I know the Webesto’s cost $1,125 but I’ve seen some people that have had issues where they stop working and are not the easiest to troubleshoot.
@@recoblade1465 have to disagree, these Chinese heaters are great, they are usually just as reliable as the webasto and if they give up you can replace the whole unit and still be out a fraction of the price of a webasto.
@@jamiemurphy1671 oh I'm not knocking the amount of money you save. You save enough to have a second one on if you have the space for it. Do you know how long it take a service truck or a tow truck to get out to you. Be safe out here on these roads
@jamiemurphy1671 Sorry, I thought you were the original commenter. It doesn't cost less but I was leaning more towards the propex, which is a propane heater for my van build. That way my heat cooking and water will all be burning the same fuel
Great review. Does this run on only DC or is it AC compatible as well? If DC only, maybe running it via a DC power supply plugged into a standard 110 outlet would get past the 15 amp limitation.
3 reasons why you want cold outside air for the intake . 1= cold air has more oxygen = hotter fire 2= cold air has less moisture = hotter fire and less soot 3= if you draw in cold air and heat it up inside, you create a heat bubble with warm air pushing out. That is why wood stoves draw in outside air. Hope this helps.
Which intake are you talking about🤔. Its sounds like your talking the intake for the propane burning, not the air being circulated across the heat exchanger. That air you definitely want coming from inside and not the outside. Hope that helps. Jason
Having the unit inside is good for efficiency. Having the unit inside and the air intake outside might not be that bad. The air intake is for the combustion chamber where the heated air is drawn through the unit over the heat exchanger. Cold air has more oxygen per volume so there might be an advantage in having a cold air intake into the combustion chamber (or maybe not... don't know).
Hi. Also good that is inside otherwise you can suck in the exaust fumes and get sick or dead. I run mine on the mountain modus and i am not even 5meter above sea level. It's alot les noisy and it runs cooler. Thank you for your nice video. Greetings of wim from Belgium
If you use the office air for furnace combustion, then outside cold air will be sucked into the heated room to replace the room air for combustion. That will create cold drafts & work against you. A 90+ % home furnace works the same where the furnace pipes in outdoor air for combustion air.
12:30 put the unit outside. it's a furnace, just use a cold air return from inside the building space like any other furnace. People commonly have furnaces exterior to the building or in an area of unconditioned space, but it's the choice of the installer to use a return or not. Not using a return isn't an issue of the diesel heater, it's a installer decision to include it or not.
Don't use cig type connection.. Go with a 110volt AC to 12.60 volt DC converter. The converter can be run off your power brick or off 110 mains power ... it will deliver the proper needed amperage to correctly safely run your heater. You can go solar battery bank as well..just remember the unit can not tolerate power outages while running...it must go through it's cool down or risk damage or fire,,,
just an idea - put the fuel tank outside the office - one day you will spill some diesel, and the smell will never disappear.... other ppl are using a separate battery and a charger, or a dc/mains adapter for the diesel heater.
Nice well explained video, What i dont understand is you having startup problems with Jackery 2000, I've ran heater all uk winter with the Jackery 500 no problem temps going as low as -5 in a uninsulated shed.
Yep, eBay is where I got mine. 12v 30amp converter. 20.00, but I believe the small 12v battery & trickle charger is still the way to go. If you have a power outage while the heaters running, it won’t shut down properly without a 12v battery wired in
I use a 110 to 12 Volt 20 Amp. converter from Amazon. $ 25.00 all you do is provide a 3 wire cord and the hookup is simple. don't buy the 10 or 15 amp make sure its at least 20 amp.
Vevor markets their heaters for vehicles. They leave one to assume you can just set it in your vehicle and crank it on, never mentioning that it needs to be vented out side nor do they suggest how they expect you to do so. They say you can remotely start it and let it pre-warm the vehicle. How? Stick the exhaust tube out the window or set it out side and stick the heat tube into the window or do you cut a hole
One possible mistake that could be fatal that I can see, even though this is a temp set up, is that you have your air intake near your exhaust. It is possible is that your air intake will pull in your exhaust. Again, I know this is a temp set up. But I just wanted you to be aware so that when you do your permanent installation, you do not put them near each other.
This isn't an issue. The air intake is for the combustion chamber only. If it does draw too much exhaust fumes, it will only reduce the combustion of diesel but i highly doubt it. The air that is being used for heating comes from the room in which the heater sets, meaning, it is a closed loop heating system. Air In on the left side, heated air Out on the right side (control panel side)
Actually it takes far less energy to heat cold dry air than humid warm air we dump inside heated air and bring in cold air through heaters far more efficient a heat exchanger to preheat exterior air helps optimize the system used in -20 to -40 Celsius conditions.
Diesel heaters are something I have considered, but I know knowing about them, aside from the need to properly install. I was under the impression that they run off gas, but you are running it off a jackery. Do they require both gas and power?
10 Amp may be Standard but not every manufacturer performs the same. I can run my heater off my Jackery 240, have so many times with it drawing around a max of 130W which is at the upper limit (132W) stated for the outlet. Strange that it is overloading my much larger Anker power station. Would like to check it out with my Bluetti power station next month. Interesting how different units perform. One problem I do have is my inlet air hose allows the heated air to cool a bit, more so with any wind.
@@williamfuller2389I want to buy a jackery 300 for this and I expect to run it all night in my truck. But the more research I do it looks like a better option would be a blueetti 550. Any suggestions?
@Dorkus_ I have never run my diesel heater off my Bluetti but the Jackery 300 should run it just fine through the night. Just make sure it doesn't go below 20%.
@@williamfuller2389 I know they both could run it all night I was more concerned with the failure to startup in cold temps. I heard it draws a bit of power to get the glow plugs going. After that it's not drawing much at all. Would the jackery 300 be able to do the 10A+?? That's where I know the beefier blueetti 550 could do it. I'm just trying to save a couple hundred bucks lol
Interesting, I must have 20 old power supplies (computer bricks) that have 12 volt output and some at least 10 amp output. I’d just dig through my old box of them and hack the 12 volt into one of those things instead of that cigarette plug your using. Power brick into one of the 110v outlets on the jackery, output wired into the heater, ditch that cigarette thingy you have wired in.
Nice job/Good info! Would like to see you test a couple "aftermarket" diesel pump "sound insulators" which are available all over the internet, just to see if any of the insulators would actually help quiet that annoying click, coming from the pump, on these units ??? :^)
Other than just using a 12v 15A adapter, couldn't you take a page from the enthusiast car audio scene and install a 12V 1 Farad capacitor in parallel to provide the full 15A when needed?
Thanks for the info. I'd ordered a different branded one a few days ago, that just arrived today. Your video seems like a really good suppliment to the instructions that came with it. I noticed that you mentioned something about a van, and showed a picture @ ~ 14:08. I'm just curious - is that "The Everlanders'" van?
I’ve got a 5 gallon fuel tank from an old generator. Could I mount it above the unit and splice a fuel line into the existing fuel line for extended run?
You might buy an ALITOVE AC to DC Converter 110V to 12V Converter 20.8A 250W with Car Cigarette Lighter Socket 100V~240V AC to DC 12 Volt 20A 18A 15A Power Supply Adapter.
To do the floor in my shop, I used inch and a half foam board and two by fours on the flat. With 3/4 plywood. Worked really good.
@@dennisyoung4496 Exactly what I have done on a couple of occasion, works great!!
I'm using a rv 110 to 12volt converter to power mine in my small shop. Works great.
You'd be wise to run it off a battery with a trickle charger instead of a converter. You could have serious trouble if you have a power failure. These are designed to shutdown properly if the battery voltage should get too low but not if the voltage is suddenly removed. Think of it this way these are designed to be operated in vehicles.
Nice write up on your diesel heater install experience. I also use a diesel heater to heat the topper on my truck. Works great. Like others, I have some suggestions on your installation.
1) You might try using a heavier gauge wire between your Jackery and heater. The voltage drop due to thinner wires may be causing the heater to pull more current than necessary. Can't tell for sure what size wire you are using, but it looked small. I would suggest 10 or 12 awg wire and cut the cord from the cigarette lighter plug as short as possible.
2) I understand the exhaust setup shown is just temporary, but for the permanent install, the muffler has (or should have) a drip hole on the side opposite the mounting hole. This should be placed down so that any fuel or condensation can drip out.
3) Somebody else already mentioned this, but I also prefer having the air intake come from the outside to minimize condensation. There is a hit on heating, but having less condensation is worth it. At least for me.
Keep up the great work!
Exact same setup, like someone else recommended, I put the foam mats from harbor freight on my entire floor then a large rug I had, made a big difference. Great video, thanks for your review.
Great information! I'd offer two suggestions for your setup, for your start power issue, get a small 12V battery (I use the little 15AH type, sized similar to an electric start generator battery) and a battery tender/trickle charger you can connect to the Jackery, the battery will provide the amperage needed to get the heater running and the Jackery will keep the charge topped off with little amp draw. Second to address the pump noise, I've found wrapping the fuel line with self adhesive foam tape, especially anywhere the fuel line may wrack against hard structures of the cabinet, can really quiet these heaters down a lot. Best of luck with your setup! Thanks for sharing your experience.
I plan to power a heater with my Jackery this seems like a good workaround. Would you be able to have the battery charger and heater’s power wires connected to the terminals on the battery at the same time? Would I need a fuse board off the battery? I’m new to this
@@Kscanlon22 Yes, it's not a problem having your heater running off a 12V battery that is also connected to a smart charger that is plugged into a 120V outlet. AND Yes, you should protect the circuit from the battery to the heater with a fuse, a simple inline 15 amp fuse will suffice.
@@StratOvation what’s the advantage of this compared to just running an AC/DC inverter off the 120V outlet? Is it more efficient?
@@Kscanlon22 All of these heaters need to perform a shutdown procedure to burn off unspent fuel and clean the atomizing screen in the ignition chamber and they will run the fan for a few minutes to cool the heat exchanger portion of the heater, the cool down cycle is critical to protecting the ECU. If you do not have a guaranteed ability (such that a battery will provide) to allow the system to cool itself down before powering off, the residual heat in the unit can cause the electronic control unit (ECU) to become overheated (damaging the printed circuitry), rendering it useless and requiring replacement of the ECU.
In short, any unexpected interruption of the 120V power to the inverter will potentially damage the ECU making your heater unusable until repaired and lead to fouling of the ignition system which may make re-starting the unit a challenge.
Running it off a motorcycle battery with a trickle charger is a great way to power these heaters. You should never do a hard shutdown; this would happen if you had a power outage. The battery prevents this from happening. I have mine mounted in a hard plastic tote box that’s insulated. The exhaust exits the box using a through haul vent designed for boats, the heat from exhaust line keeps the inside of the box warm. The battery and trickle charge are mounted in the box so they are warm as well. Works great
Put a house radiator as part of the exhaust, and you will get to use the exhaust to add heat in your office. Thst or make a coil of tubing into a bucket,.open air or in a wood burning stove and run the exhaust through that before dumping it outside will make better use of your fuel. This way your exhast heat will radiate off the coils or radiator and the blown heat can be pointed to cross the room or warm the floor.
They way you have it throws away half the heat that heater makes.
You nailed what others don't mention keeping the unit inside for the heat exchanger to work effectively. Thanks for the video, thorough review, and explanation..
Yeah, but in the video his intake hose outside the office.?
Wow! That fuel pump is really loud. I recently purchased a Wippro brand heater like yours based on a review on RUclips. It's very quiet with just a soft ticking in the background. I believe the pump is well insulated from the chassis compared to other brands. Very informative video!
Same here with the Maxspeedingrods.....almost silent. However, I do have hearing issues. When I first ran it outside I had to put my ear near the unit to make certain it was pumping.
Old computer power supply is a great way to run these. I personally have a car battery with small battery charger attached. Be sure to have the exhaust at a slight downward grade to allow any condensate to be able to drain to the outside.
Thank you finally someone addressed this issue i was wondering why my diesel heater would shut off using that plug, i just went with the ac to dc power adapter and it works fine plugging it into that, hopefully vevor does fix that issue. Thanks for the content!
It's not a vevor issue, it's a diesel heater issue as a whole so it won't be changed anytime soon. It would be easier for jackery, anker, ecoflow, etc to bump up their power ratings to 15A than it would to get random chinese companies to lessen their power consumption on start up.
Interesting video. I have an 8kw Hcalory portable diesel heater and I have an ecoflow river max and ecoflow mini portable power station and both power the heater perfect. On start up the diesel heater draws around 120 watts for the 1st couple of minutes and once it fires up and starts to run on diesel it drops down to around 6 watts around the same as charging a phone and would then run continuously for days. As you've demonstrated there is definitely a problem with the set up your testing on start up. My set up must demand less power or the ecoflow just puts out more amps than the jackery.
Absolutely love your videos. Watched them for a while now. Great content.
Great vid, you hit on all point for beginner like me on diesel heater and the setup issue, power source, etc.
Very good explanation of the pros and cons. I had considered getting one , but winter camping is on a whole other level as far as food,fuel,and comfort.
I run mine on a Jackery 300. All you need to do is put a bigger fuse in the actual DC plug that comes out of the diesel heater. With a 300 you can only run it for about 3 1/2 four hours and a full tank of diesel will get you about eight hours of run time.
Add a 2x6 framed and insulated floor. You’ll have a step up into the office but that will help the cold radiating from the concrete floor problem.
Thanks for your review. Great points.
I have a Vevor (5wk) all in one unit for my Van and it blast me out on low setting. I wrapped my exhaust pipe and purchased a 90 deg. fitting (From Amazon) for the exhaust pipe because it hard to bent the pipe to fit the unit. Wrapping the pipe is just safer too. Can't go wrong with the Vevor unit.
For anyone who has a drafty cold area, point the heater output towards that area, it's a game changer. Might need to experiment, but never assume pointing the outlet at yourself is the best way, it may very well not be. Spent the last 3 years thinking the wrong way and my brother pointed it at the draftiest area and it's been way warmer now.
Thanks for the review, that certainly was thorough look at that heater set up and operation. I was browsing Walmart on-line and saw this heater and was wondering what it was about.👍
I get what you are talking about when you say the floor radiates COLD. BUT... I am a HVAC tech. I have to choose my words carefully to not offend anyone. So I will do my best not to offend you and hopefully educate you. This is just to help you understand the difference between heat and cold. Cold is just the absence of heat. Same as during the day and the sun heats up the earth. At night is gets colder. Heat always moves to the coldest object. Your floor has very little heat in it. Once heated up it can then release its heat (radiate) to a colder object. It can't radiate cold.
Great video by the way and thank you. I hope I didn't offend you.
I saw a review of this heater on another channel. The exhaust pipe got hot enough to scorch wood, so be careful with it.
I would not be able to tolerate the constant loud knocking of the pump.
True. Exhaust pipe gets hot and connection under unit is very hot. I purchased a 90 degree connector and wrapped the pipe twice with high temp tape. Works great and safer.
Most models stop ticking after they get warm
I believe 12 volt car type plugs are universally only rated for 10 amps.
Thats correct.
The combustion air intake doesn't have to come from outside of the heated area. You can do that if you do desire, but the inside/ outside placement has no effect on the unit. The air being heated and blown into your room is not coming from that 1" intake tube, it's being drawn into the unit housing and forced across the heat exchanger and out the 3" discharge tube.
Some may argue that pulling in combustion air from inside of the heated building will force negative pressure in the heated area and cause outside cold air to be pulled in. While there is truth to that, it's very minimal and to pull in some fresh air from outside is not necessarily a bad idea.
I have my entire unit mounted outside of the building and only run the 3" heat pipe into the building. This makes the unit silent aside from the slight key engine sound of the air flow. I'm using 2 8k Hcalory units in a 20'x20' 2 story camp. At 45°F i can run only 1 unit at level 3 to maintain 70°-72°F. If it gets cooler than mid to upper 40s, i can fire up the second unit and run both on level 1 or 2 and get almost 3 days from the 2 gallon tanks.
I use a 600 watt transformer 120/240 VAC to 12volt DC constant output !works perfectly. Im getting 11.8 to 11.9 and a viktage drop to 11.4 due to my 100 ft 16 gauge ext cord.
I run mine outside and have the the hot air ducted inside. Diesel runs more efficiently in cooler air and i run it on 2hz or less. Also my fuel pump is very quite. I have an all in one by wippro. I have it hardwired to the coach lithium batteries so power is no problem. Have also ran it all night on my vtoman 1500 watt power station no problem. I use to heat up my 25ft class C RV and it's way better than the built in propane furnace.
A little insulation will make a big difference winter and summer. Also a rug with pad on the floor will help.
I didn't see anyone else mention this. The main reason you draw air from outside is to avoid creating negative pressure in your heated area. If you pull air from inside and send it outside air will come in from every tiny crack in your structure. This air will be cold and lower your efficiency.
Floor:
Apply some 2” foam board insulation over the concrete.
No need to glue down.
Cover foam board with plywood. No glue. Done.
Insulate ceiling next.
With 2x6 framing you can get up to R21 batts. Could also put foam boards on Ceiling instead of Sheetrock.
If I had to guess the reason it doesn’t completely shut off is because it would have to kick up the amps to fire up those glow plugs. Been looking at one of these. I’d like to install one in my travel trailer. Biggest issue is the fuel tank. So I’m going back and forth on either a unit like this one, or the older types wit the separate fuel tanks. Those Vevor items seem to be built pretty good. Thank you for the video.
installed in enclosed trailer.removed tank.fuel shut off with drip line into plastic bottle for disconnect. sits on top of unit strapped down with bungie. keep in old tool box for transport. no spilt fuel in trailer .exhaust goes through aluminum pipe and conduit double male connector.
I could be wrong but I believe all these Chinese heaters are made at the same factory in China and stamped with different names. I just purchased 3 ChuBu Diesel Heater All In One 5KW/8KW 12V-24V for $99 each, they look and function identically.
Looking at the specifications, I see no difference.
I purposely have my diesel heater heating cold outside air and forcing it inside because I wanted to bring in dry cold air to heat, and force out any warm moist air inside through leakage. I will take the hit on the efficiency to keep things dry. I can see in an area where you do not plan on sleeping or cooking where this would be less of a concern.
Yes, I also would be concerned about the exhaust possibly leaking into sleeping space. Its not worth it for the sake of efficiency to risk your health or maybe even life! Have the entire unit outside and duct the heat in.
Hi Jason, if I might, I’d like to make a couple of suggestions. As far as what the capabilities are; I have a 12X24’ portable building on my property and I’m using a similar diesel parking heater in it. Temperatures here in the winter are often in the teens and on the colder days in the teens I can get up to 60*f plus. Insulation is key so once you do that that heater will be able to drive you out of that small space! I would suggest using an inverter for the power supply, backed up by your Jackery and I’ll explain that in a bit. The inverters are inexpensive and are 110V AC to 12V DC and are available in 15 amp DC output. Since you have AC power there it shouldn’t be a problem. I would also use the Jackery as backup ie in parallel with the inverter for safety reasons. If you have even a momentary AC power glitch, the heater will shut down hot, especially if was on high at the time and the fan not being able to remove the heat sink from the unit can actually partially melt things such as the circuit board, fuel lines etc…ask me how I know. Also those cold no starts will eventually carbon up the burn chamber which will require cleaning. Also you don’t have to pull the 14*f cold air from outside and that will help as the space warms up. Your office space does not appear to be air tight by any means plus the combustion air requirements for those diesel heaters is tiny. Also the inverter voltage is adjustable so it can be set just a tad above the Jackery and there will be no draw on it at all. Leave a comment if you need more information and we can figure out a way to communicate better via phone or email.
Great information here, I'm setting up one in my shop and find the connection for your exaust interesting.
I have 3/4 inch plywood to go thru and if the exaust touches metal and then that metal touches the wood, it burns it. I want to use your idea. I am still concerned that metal will conduct the heat.
I ran my exaust thru a larger diameter pipe and that pipe is snug to my hole. I think my issue is its a tight fit and that pipe is getting to 400 plus degrees.
There needs to be some kind of space between the pipe and wood or whatever it's attached to in my opinion.
Hopefully this makes sense. Just looking for a way to do it right. With the appropriate pieces of equipment
Suggestions please.
I installed a Chinese Diesel heater in my 6x12 cargo trailer conversion... I spent all my effort making sure I properly exhausted the unit through my 1 inch insulated wall using a thru-hull stainless outlet as well as using high-temp RTV around my exhaust hose with high quality hose clamps, and thought everything was great.. I now know that I need to also properly setup a thru-hull port for the combustion intake (away from the exhaust). These devices are primitive.. don't trust that the exhaust flow will happen in one direction with 100% certainty... and don't expect your Home Depot CO detector to save you either.. I've smelled the funky smell, and let it go... and it made me pretty sick.. Don't ignore it... do it right.
That's a good point... it is good to set it up in a way where all the air moves where it should, and doesn't reverse. I'm curious if you are feeding it air from outside? Would it make any difference if the air intake is set higher or lower than the exhaust?
I also had bought the longer pipe, never used it, and also exhaust insulation and sealant to hold exhaust tape strands in place.
Nice challenge to insulate the room so well it warms itself up. He's 100W, and the lights, laptop and screen say, 40W. You can get heat exhanger ventilation now, but I've doubts about them regarding dampness and mould build up. In the shop might have sparks from angle grinders etc, so can't just use polystyrene, they invented drywall for a reason.
Check with the manufacturer or with another "standard" manufacturer on the maximum length of the exhaust tubing.
If you get too long, it will affect the back pressure being exhausted. If the burner cannot exhaust effectively, it's not gonna burn properly. You could be opening yourself up for some issues.
That thing uses 120W max at its highest and ~30 W when fully heated. So basically 10A is the max it'll draw. The problem is the battery pack isn't able to maintain the amperage for long and is kicking on its safety circuitry to not overheat.
HI JASON 👋
THANK YOU FOR SHOWING ME / US HOW YOU'RE SETTING UP YOUR DIESEL HEATER & THE PROBLEMS YOU CAME ACROSS. PLUS TRYING TO FIGURE / FIX THEM 🤔 HOPE YOU & FAMILY , FRIENDS HAD A GREAT HAPPY THANKSGIVING DAY 🦃 😊 ❤BE SAFE ! HAVE FUN ! ENJOYED 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 GOD BLESS YOU BOTH / ALL ALWAYS ON YOUR ADVENTURES 🙏 HOPE YOU ALL HAVE A GREAT MERRY CHRISTMAS 🎅 🎄& HAPPY NEW YEAR TOO 🎉
You are right! but having the Diesel heater inside and taking the cold air outside can cause condensation in cold climates, especially when starting from cold. PS: in really cold weather, they don't work outdoors so it's a catch 22!.
I used a 18v to 12v converter with a milwaukee battery connection (easy find on Amazon) and wired it in. On startup I plug the Milwaukee in and it cuts the draw seen on my Ecoflow Delta Max in half. Once it's running I unplug the Milwaukee and runs fine. I had the same issue if it tripping. No issues now and when camping I could run it all night off Milwaukee if needed... So built in a bit of redundancy.
So you just use the Milwaukee on startup and then swap to the eco flow ?
Sounds like a Jackery problem and not a heater problem. I have a gen 1 Inergy Kodiak that has external terminals that the heater can hook up to directly. I have 2 Vevor heaters now. One is going on 3yrs old and a new Bluetooth model. I replaced both of their power supply cords with 8awg wires and have never seen over 9amps on the coldest startups (Michigan winters). Make sure to use anti-gel treatment for your diesel
Mine clicked only when setting it up. After priming the pump and exiting the prime part, it runs really quiet. Read the distructions! Also, try to not let it run out of fuel or it will need priming again. Good luck!
I would use a 12 volt battery in line to have the amperage available for the startup of the heater using a charger to keep the battery full.
It's not a great option but you can use a AC to DC converter for 20 bucks, it drains slightly more power that needed but it's not too bad. That's what I have used for the last year without issue.
I just tried my 5kw on my 330w power station, not enough power to run at start up but at least I know it will work. Have had the heater for a couple years and now ready to use with my battery system.
I can relate to the problems with language in these instructions. You missed the part where it said plainly, "Do not use Jakely to start!"
I would also rotate the muffler so that the condensation produced by exhaust can exit out of the weep hole and also I would angle the exhaust so that the muffler is the lowest point of the exhaust so condensation will exit and not run back down the pipe and pool inside.
Haven't read every comment but an easy cheap fix I bougnt an ac to 12v cig converter since most power stations have ac. Still portable and still using roughly the same wattage but you plug the adapter in to the ac on your power station so you can get at least 10 amps to feed your diesel heater. My 12v outlet on my power station never actually supplied 10 amps. It's supposed to be 10 amps according to the manufacturer but on two power stations I get the same thing. Measuring it I noticed it shut down before 100 watts. The adapter allowed me to use AC which doesn't shutdown and the 10 amp adapter works for me but you can find them all the way up to 20 amps if you so desire. I didn't want to carry around another battery just for the heater.
Glad I watched this before buying. I don’t think that I could put up with listening to that pump hammering away all the time
@@markyax1467 pump noises are easy to fix with these. The rigid mount makes the tick way worse then it is
I remember VCRs when they came out and probably for the next 10 years I don't think I ever figured out how to get the clock to set on those things
Throw some rugs down on the cement floor - really quick and easy way to get a small R Value that could make a big difference.
The battery mode requires a direct connection with a battery because the heater will pull more amps than the 12 volt power plug will handle and you will most likely get an error code because the 12 volt battery cable is not getting enough voltage amps to handle the heater. It will over time damage the heater if you continue running it on a 12 volt outlet on the jackery . Just get a battery and a solar panel and solar panel charger
Nice video,.. you should make this video again after insulating your office... Thx for sharing...
Try doing a rubber mount to the fuel pump that will help it not transfer the sound to the frame and that will help make it more quiet. Also use a tiny atv battery in between the heater and the Jackery and that'll help with the startup\shut down power draw that trips you Jackery
Not going to help much. The clicking is the noise of the pump itself. They use them in semi trucks all the time but mount the fuel pump outside away from the unit and on the tank.
Just wrap the pump with insulation, like R-14 fiberglass
I just got a 15a 12v AC / DC converter for $25 on Amazon.
No power issues for the on on my porch install.
Small 12v utility battery between the Jackery and the heater would keep the battery charged and the extra amperage would come from the battery capacity. You could run it then with just the battery temporarily if needed.
With the right amount of cranking amps. expensive or cheap that is up to you and 3/4inch copper pipe would work for your exhaust pipe extension as well Iv seen on a couple RV installs.
The intake goes inside. It's more efficient and it won't kill you with exhaust fumes being sucked in.
That’s not how these work, the intake goes straight into the combustion chamber and out the exhaust, kind of like a small engine except these have a heating element and the fan blows through it to create the warm air.
Good video. For those afraid to tackle taking these apart to install the exhaust and intake lines, I ordered and used a STREBITO Mini Ratchet Set, 22-Piece 1/4 Ratchet Right Angle Screwdriver. Got it off Amazon for $12. Great little tool that has 36 teeth, meaning you can ratchet it with very small movements in a confined space. I paired that with the NEIKO 10068A Nut Driver Set, $14.95. I have since used it on other projects as well. Everyone should own one of these sets anyway.....they are awesome. Using the listed tools I was able to install the pipes with little to no issue. BTW, using a dremel, I extended the spilt in the pipe an additional 1/8 in. and could probably have extended it a bit further. This allows tightening with a lot less final torque. As for powering your unit, I would use a DC 12V 30A Power Supply 360W Universal Regulated Switching AC to DC Converter sold on Amazon for $20....drop down to 20A and it is like $17. I would go 30A though, I am always for overkill.
Hook up a small 12 volt battery (7ah) in parallel to the supply.
You will draw power from the battery on startup then it will charge.
You might have to limit the charge current to the battery with a high
power low ohm resistor resistor or something else.
I use the Bluetti AC70 and it works perfect with this heater no problem, just something to consider when it comes to power banks and diesel heaters. Also that heat setting doesn't work, have used these for 2 years and they never shut off. Unfortunately the manuals are horrible and there is no real explanation on some of the features.
Nice, I have a different model I am putting in my big rig for a heating source. The box on it is well insulated, and running of a pony tank off the main tank. Should work pretty good.
I don’t know if I would trust one of these for my rig. I know the Webesto’s cost $1,125 but I’ve seen some people that have had issues where they stop working and are not the easiest to troubleshoot.
@@recoblade1465 have to disagree, these Chinese heaters are great, they are usually just as reliable as the webasto and if they give up you can replace the whole unit and still be out a fraction of the price of a webasto.
@@jamiemurphy1671 oh I'm not knocking the amount of money you save. You save enough to have a second one on if you have the space for it. Do you know how long it take a service truck or a tow truck to get out to you. Be safe out here on these roads
@@recoblade1465 yeah that’s for sure, I never considered it for a truck, I use them on boats and motor homes mainly in Ireland 🙌
@jamiemurphy1671 Sorry, I thought you were the original commenter. It doesn't cost less but I was leaning more towards the propex, which is a propane heater for my van build. That way my heat cooking and water will all be burning the same fuel
Great review. Does this run on only DC or is it AC compatible as well? If DC only, maybe running it via a DC power supply plugged into a standard 110 outlet would get past the 15 amp limitation.
3 reasons why you want cold outside air for the intake .
1= cold air has more oxygen = hotter fire
2= cold air has less moisture = hotter fire and less soot
3= if you draw in cold air and heat it up inside, you create a heat bubble with warm air pushing out.
That is why wood stoves draw in outside air.
Hope this helps.
Which intake are you talking about🤔. Its sounds like your talking the intake for the propane burning, not the air being circulated across the heat exchanger. That air you definitely want coming from inside and not the outside.
Hope that helps.
Jason
Having the unit inside is good for efficiency. Having the unit inside and the air intake outside might not be that bad. The air intake is for the combustion chamber where the heated air is drawn through the unit over the heat exchanger. Cold air has more oxygen per volume so there might be an advantage in having a cold air intake into the combustion chamber (or maybe not... don't know).
Hi. Also good that is inside otherwise you can suck in the exaust fumes and get sick or dead.
I run mine on the mountain modus and i am not even 5meter above sea level. It's alot les noisy and it runs cooler.
Thank you for your nice video.
Greetings of wim from Belgium
Wouldn't it be more efficient to have the air intake in your office to recirculate the warm air rather than taking in cold air from your shop?
I thought this too, especially after he said that it was inefficient to have it draw in and heat cold air. But that's what he was doing.
The intake will be sucking in exhaust fumes... not healthy..
The air intake from the outside is only for the cumbustion chamber inside the heater. The intake for the hot air is on the backside of the heater.
If you use the office air for furnace combustion, then outside cold air will be sucked into the heated room to replace the room air for combustion. That will create cold drafts & work against you.
A 90+ % home furnace works the same where the furnace pipes in outdoor air for combustion air.
@@kevinanderson7555 ?huh
12:30 put the unit outside. it's a furnace, just use a cold air return from inside the building space like any other furnace. People commonly have furnaces exterior to the building or in an area of unconditioned space, but it's the choice of the installer to use a return or not.
Not using a return isn't an issue of the diesel heater, it's a installer decision to include it or not.
goal zero has some Anderson connectors with 30amp output. others with those connectors may too.
Use an old PC power supply for the 12v. The 12v rail is usually good for up to 50A
Awesome video! Gonna go through your channel to see what else I can learn!
Don't use cig type connection.. Go with a 110volt AC to 12.60 volt DC converter. The converter can be run off your power brick or off 110 mains power ... it will deliver the proper needed amperage to correctly safely run your heater. You can go solar battery bank as well..just remember the unit can not tolerate power outages while running...it must go through it's cool down or risk damage or fire,,,
To change from C to F press the temperature up/down buttons at same time
just an idea - put the fuel tank outside the office - one day you will spill some diesel, and the smell will never disappear.... other ppl are using a separate battery and a charger, or a dc/mains adapter for the diesel heater.
Mount the diesel pump outside the cabinet. The cover is amplifying the sound.
I wrapped cloth around pump 80 percent ticking quite
I found in 30 degree weather my camper van needed 1500BTU for modest heat. Below freezing and expect ice in the toilet.
Nice well explained video, What i dont understand is you having startup problems with Jackery 2000, I've ran heater all uk winter with the Jackery 500 no problem temps going as low as -5 in a uninsulated shed.
Is there an A/C adaptor for these heaters? I have electricity in the building, but not a battery pack like the Jackery....
Yep, eBay is where I got mine. 12v 30amp converter. 20.00, but I believe the small 12v battery & trickle charger is still the way to go. If you have a power outage while the heaters running, it won’t shut down properly without a 12v battery wired in
I run my heater on a jackery 500 but you need to find a liter plug that's heavy duty. I had the same problem with a cheap liter plug.
I use a 110 to 12 Volt 20 Amp. converter from Amazon. $ 25.00 all you do is provide a 3 wire cord and the hookup is simple. don't buy the 10 or 15 amp make sure its at least 20 amp.
With proper insulation, a tiny little 1500w electric heater with a good fan can heat that tiny little space even when temps go negative (f).
Wow that pump does sound quite loud. I have a Toyota Hiace van so not that big. Apart from that the unit looks tempting to buy.
Looking to buy one for my garage but that pump noise is concerning
Vevor markets their heaters for vehicles. They leave one to assume you can just set it in your vehicle and crank it on, never mentioning that it needs to be vented out side nor do they suggest how they expect you to do so. They say you can remotely start it and let it pre-warm the vehicle. How? Stick the exhaust tube out the window or set it out side and stick the heat tube into the window or do you cut a hole
Does the exhaust smell the same as from a diesel engine?
Yes, but after the heater warms up, the exhaust smells like hot air.
One possible mistake that could be fatal that I can see, even though this is a temp set up, is that you have your air intake near your exhaust. It is possible is that your air intake will pull in your exhaust. Again, I know this is a temp set up. But I just wanted you to be aware so that when you do your permanent installation, you do not put them near each other.
This isn't an issue. The air intake is for the combustion chamber only. If it does draw too much exhaust fumes, it will only reduce the combustion of diesel but i highly doubt it.
The air that is being used for heating comes from the room in which the heater sets, meaning, it is a closed loop heating system. Air In on the left side, heated air Out on the right side (control panel side)
Put two inches of rigid foam on the floor and cover it with underlayment
I see an air frier / toaster oven in the shop office's future.....for the quick snack while ur editing.
Actually it takes far less energy to heat cold dry air than humid warm air we dump inside heated air and bring in cold air through heaters far more efficient a heat exchanger to preheat exterior air helps optimize the system used in -20 to -40 Celsius conditions.
They do make a quieter fuel pump for those but I haven't heard any difference in them..
Diesel heaters are something I have considered, but I know knowing about them, aside from the need to properly install.
I was under the impression that they run off gas, but you are running it off a jackery. Do they require both gas and power?
10 Amp may be Standard but not every manufacturer performs the same. I can run my heater off my Jackery 240, have so many times with it drawing around a max of 130W which is at the upper limit (132W) stated for the outlet. Strange that it is overloading my much larger Anker power station. Would like to check it out with my Bluetti power station next month. Interesting how different units perform. One problem I do have is my inlet air hose allows the heated air to cool a bit, more so with any wind.
Some put out 12.6v. That might account for just enough of a difference to be under the max watts over DC.
@@just4ivaylo92 I do believe most power stations, if not all, deliver around 12.6 volts.
@@williamfuller2389I want to buy a jackery 300 for this and I expect to run it all night in my truck. But the more research I do it looks like a better option would be a blueetti 550. Any suggestions?
@Dorkus_ I have never run my diesel heater off my Bluetti but the Jackery 300 should run it just fine through the night. Just make sure it doesn't go below 20%.
@@williamfuller2389 I know they both could run it all night I was more concerned with the failure to startup in cold temps. I heard it draws a bit of power to get the glow plugs going. After that it's not drawing much at all. Would the jackery 300 be able to do the 10A+?? That's where I know the beefier blueetti 550 could do it. I'm just trying to save a couple hundred bucks lol
Have you tried using kerosene instead of diesel ?
That's what I use in my new HCalory heater. Works great! K1 white clear kerosene.
Interesting, I must have 20 old power supplies (computer bricks) that have 12 volt output and some at least 10 amp output. I’d just dig through my old box of them and hack the 12 volt into one of those things instead of that cigarette plug your using. Power brick into one of the 110v outlets on the jackery, output wired into the heater, ditch that cigarette thingy you have wired in.
Nice job/Good info! Would like to see you test a couple "aftermarket" diesel pump "sound insulators" which are available all over the internet, just to see if any of the insulators would actually help quiet that annoying click, coming from the pump, on these units ??? :^)
Other than just using a 12v 15A adapter, couldn't you take a page from the enthusiast car audio scene and install a 12V 1 Farad capacitor in parallel to provide the full 15A when needed?
Goal Zero, Oupes, Bluetti, and EcoFlow all have 12v 30amp.
Thanks for the info. I'd ordered a different branded one a few days ago, that just arrived today. Your video seems like a really good suppliment to the instructions that came with it. I noticed that you mentioned something about a van, and showed a picture @ ~ 14:08. I'm just curious - is that "The Everlanders'" van?
I’ve got a 5 gallon fuel tank from an old generator. Could I mount it above the unit and splice a fuel line into the existing fuel line for extended run?
You might buy an ALITOVE AC to DC Converter 110V to 12V Converter 20.8A 250W with Car Cigarette Lighter Socket 100V~240V AC to DC 12 Volt 20A 18A 15A Power Supply Adapter.
I used a 30 amp converter on mine. 21 bucks on Amazon. 4.5 ⭐