I’ve got plasterboard joins visible below my paint in a new build. I’m about to repaint those affected walls. Would you recommend carving the join out, filling, sanding, prime and paint? Is that the correct method? Thanks.
I'm a bathroom and kitchen fitter and usually do all the work, except gas and electrics. I've recently started hiring a decorator to speed things up and it is the best thing I have ever done, the overall finish has creeped up another level. The slightest blemish in the walls and he is there taking care of it before painting.
Hi mate great video as always! Was wondering if you could help me out with some advice please, I’m looking to paint some concrete patio slabs. I see that zinsser allcoat seems to be mentioned a lot in forums. Would you go with that or something different? I know your a big zinsser fan lol. Thanks in advance for any advice you can give and keep up the good work. You are top of your game and it’s nice to watch someone do things properly. Thanks again
I’ve used Zinsser allcoat. I personally didn’t like it because it doesn’t roller on nicely. So I decided to use it for some other jobs where a smooth roller finish wasn’t needed. This included some concrete outside and it seems to be fine so far. White needs a few coats.
Hi mate. Could you do a video on sanding previously painted door frames and architrave that are lumpy etc. I'm never happy with my finish 🤷♂️. Thanks again love your channel
Was so pleased with myself today. Had to sort a hole punched into a plasterboard wall after a family fight in a restaurant. Backed, plugged with board, bit of scrim to bond the two, filler, rub down and paint, feathering it out so it blended in with original paintwork. Not one person could see where the hole had been.
B&q building section £10 for metal foam gun. Caulk nozzle can be rammed on the end for holes. Store with foam cleaner can attached to gun. Those one time foam cans can be a nightmare with no flow control and I had one stay on. Foam everywhere!
Another quicker way is: pull the failed plaster off. Drive in 2 screws either side of the pop. 2 part filler. Sand, paint. This method allows you to fix a screw pop in 15 minutes and that’s a painted finish.
I use 2 part fillers quite a lot. I've been let down by these water fillers so often.Any deepish hole to fill can take hours to dry through properly.With 2 pack its minutes and ready to sand.
Do you know if that foam is waterproof/resistant? I ask because I need to use some and it needs to be water / moisture resistant and I know there is two kinds. I find it all quite baffling. Thanks Alex
@@idi0tdetectioninprogress thanks for your response. It's for a couple of things actually - one is putting around window frames and the other is for filling some large splits in some wooden beams before filling with wood repair/filler. I have read that closed cell foam is best moisture résistance but not sure which is which. (I am using it for a property in France and my french isn't up to scratch but have seen this exact product in the DIY store)
@@alexthomson7465 Ok. So your main factors in choosing a foam are things like soundproofing, movement, and are the gaps large or not. The windows need a waterproof finish, with something like an acrylic sealant anyway, so the foam shouldn't be exposed to the elements in normal service. Cracks in wood, I'd suggest looking at something like a resin based product. That would give you strength for timbers that may be in tension or compression during their life. Good luck in France🇫🇷
Sometimes the screws miss completely. And sometimes it can be difficult to find a fixing. Plus you need to be careful moving the position of screws just in case.. wires .. pipes
I’ve got plasterboard joins visible below my paint in a new build. I’m about to repaint those affected walls. Would you recommend carving the join out, filling, sanding, prime and paint? Is that the correct method? Thanks.
Yes if it's proud from the surface it's the only way.. thanks
@@PaintingandDecorating Thanks!
I love seeing decorators that know what they're doing. 👍
Thank you.
Is it the same principle if the plaster board has been nailed on, or should the nail be replaced with a screw?
Yes..
I'm a bathroom and kitchen fitter and usually do all the work, except gas and electrics. I've recently started hiring a decorator to speed things up and it is the best thing I have ever done, the overall finish has creeped up another level.
The slightest blemish in the walls and he is there taking care of it before painting.
Good decorators worth their weight in gold...
Hi mate great video as always! Was wondering if you could help me out with some advice please, I’m looking to paint some concrete patio slabs. I see that zinsser allcoat seems to be mentioned a lot in forums. Would you go with that or something different? I know your a big zinsser fan lol. Thanks in advance for any advice you can give and keep up the good work. You are top of your game and it’s nice to watch someone do things properly. Thanks again
I’ve used Zinsser allcoat. I personally didn’t like it because it doesn’t roller on nicely. So I decided to use it for some other jobs where a smooth roller finish wasn’t needed. This included some concrete outside and it seems to be fine so far. White needs a few coats.
Hi mate. Could you do a video on sanding previously painted door frames and architrave that are lumpy etc. I'm never happy with my finish 🤷♂️. Thanks again love your channel
Makes so much sense.. you have helped me in my endeavours… spot on thanks
Just the advice I have been looking for as a few have popped on my ceilings. Cheers
Thanks your welcome.
Was so pleased with myself today. Had to sort a hole punched into a plasterboard wall after a family fight in a restaurant. Backed, plugged with board, bit of scrim to bond the two, filler, rub down and paint, feathering it out so it blended in with original paintwork. Not one person could see where the hole had been.
B&q building section £10 for metal foam gun. Caulk nozzle can be rammed on the end for holes. Store with foam cleaner can attached to gun.
Those one time foam cans can be a nightmare with no flow control and I had one stay on. Foam everywhere!
Yes they can have issues.. will try a gun at some point. Thanks
Another excellent tip to add to my inventory, thanks 👍👍
Cheers mate.
good idea using foam. I would imagine it would act like a shock absorber and help to secure the plasterboard.
Thanks, yes works great for problem movement.
Another quicker way is: pull the failed plaster off. Drive in 2 screws either side of the pop. 2 part filler. Sand, paint. This method allows you to fix a screw pop in 15 minutes and that’s a painted finish.
Decorators don't use 2 part fillers for plaster.. it's not about speed.
@@PaintingandDecorating incorrect
I use 2 part fillers quite a lot. I've been let down by these water fillers so often.Any deepish hole to fill can take hours to dry through properly.With 2 pack its minutes and ready to sand.
Shouldn't you use primer or P. V. A before you fill ? I thought that's what you've shown in previous videos.
Depends what your doing..
Do you know if that foam is waterproof/resistant? I ask because I need to use some and it needs to be water / moisture resistant and I know there is two kinds. I find it all quite baffling. Thanks
Alex
By it's very nature, foam is not usually something that's selected when waterproofing or resistance is required. Whats it for?
@@idi0tdetectioninprogress thanks for your response. It's for a couple of things actually - one is putting around window frames and the other is for filling some large splits in some wooden beams before filling with wood repair/filler. I have read that closed cell foam is best moisture résistance but not sure which is which. (I am using it for a property in France and my french isn't up to scratch but have seen this exact product in the DIY store)
@@alexthomson7465 Ok. So your main factors in choosing a foam are things like soundproofing, movement, and are the gaps large or not. The windows need a waterproof finish, with something like an acrylic sealant anyway, so the foam shouldn't be exposed to the elements in normal service.
Cracks in wood, I'd suggest looking at something like a resin based product. That would give you strength for timbers that may be in tension or compression during their life.
Good luck in France🇫🇷
@@idi0tdetectioninprogress thankyou for the advice! It is really gratefully received as I am learning as I go. And sometimes learning too late lol.
@@alexthomson7465 😂everydays a school day👍 Half the battle is the myriad of products on the market now, and choosing the right ones.
just take screw out and screw one a inch beside it.
been doing that for years .
I never had a problem.
Sometimes the screws miss completely. And sometimes it can be difficult to find a fixing. Plus you need to be careful moving the position of screws just in case.. wires .. pipes
👍👍👍
Thank you.
The screw seems unnecessary after foam had applied.
👍👍👍
Thanks