Best Lenses For Full Frame Sony Mirrorless Cameras Underwater.
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- Опубликовано: 10 янв 2024
- Matt and Alex take it in turns to choose their favourite lens options for shooting full frame Sony mirrorless cameras underwater. Alex won the toss and gets to pick first - although still gets stuck having to pick the 16-35mm! While Naia tried to understand who Matt is speaking too. This is The Underwater Photography Show episode 4.
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The show is hosted by Alex Mustard (www.amustard.com) and Matthew Sullivan (www.9milesnorth.com).
You can find Alex on Instagram as: alexmustard1
You can find Matt on Instagram as: formerlyhomelessphotographer
#TheUnderwaterPhotographyShow #underwaterphotography #sonycamera #nauticam 
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Matt - a 60mm or 70mm is absolutely necessary for blackwater diving (something neither of you mentioned). The 90mm both isn't fast enough while also being a bit too long.
Thank you for this video! From a fellow A9 shooter
not too shabby a camera for being so 'old'!
Thoughts on/about the a9 iii with global shutter?
Great video! Where can I find more information about adapting Nauticam wet optics (WACP-C/FCP/WWL-C) to an Ikelite (DLM) housing? Local dealer said they were unable to help!
Don't know if they do Ikelite adaptors, but I have always used sagadive.com for adapting different ports between housings.
This video is gold for new Sony shooters
Thanks. We will revisit this topic as other lenses come up - and with some assumptions, such a working to budget.
Hi Alex now for long macro in the Sony line you have the new Sony 70-200 f4 macro
I do not yet try this but I saw that marelux has already put it in there chart
I (Alex) tried it on land last year. The lens is surprisingly small, but expands too much when zoomed to be practical to use much of the zoom underwater. It focuses close enough for fish photography. But not full on macro. Also it needs quite a wide port and one with a bigger front element than 67mm, so hard to use close up lenses. So as an UW optic it would be very compromised. But a good travel lens for topside. And if you can accommodate it in an existing port as a non-zooming 70mm it would be useable. Not a sensible use of money buying a dedicated port for it underwater, and certainly not worth buying the lens for UW.
Thanks for everything.
Alex, for fisheye, how do you compare Sony 28-60 mm + FCP setup to Canon or Nikon 8-15mm ? Mostly angle of view and quality.
I will be shooting the production version of the FCP for the first time next week. And will report on the channel as soon as I am back. But the FCP will definitely give a much better zoom range, and with (to be tested) much better optics because the lens is designed specifically for use in water. The FCP can also be used with the 14mm as a circular fisheye (like the 8mm end of the other fisheyes. The zoom range of an 8-15mm with a teleconverter (which noticeably degrades the optical quality) has a Field Of View range of 180-110˚, the FCP will be 170-70˚ - and the small front element and the fact it focuses to the glass means that you can fill the frame with some surprisingly small subjects.
Thanks for the video guys, very instuctive,even for a crop sensor (APSC) shooter like me. It could be nice if you could make a future episode regarding best APSC focal lenghs for uwphotography. I shoot a (not the most popular) Fujifilm Xt-3 in a Nauticam housing, mostly focused on macro (80mm, which I love, and 30mm, still to test but with great expectations, thanks to Alex comments about his good experiences with the Sony 50mm macro). My question is about the forthcoming FCP. Is it coming only to N120 port system, or do you think it will also come to the N100 port system?? And last but not least, do you think it is going to be a "heavy" port with "heavy" optics, or is it going to be a "light" and relatively more affordable one?? Thanks for all!!!
so Alex may know better than I but i belive the fcp is N100 natively and may step up to n120? It is not light nor cheap but I'll let alex chime in here as he has experience shooting it!
@@matthewsullivan4026 thank you Matthew, there is coming a nice 16-50 (24-75 ff) Fujinon lens, with no moving barrel, so wondering the compatibility, because there is no native fisheye lens on Fuji, and, if possible I prefer investing in a good conversion port....
@@elipehu694 the fuji 15-45 is another option as it can be used with the WWL series unless you are really going for that full fisheye look. I have to imagine there will be a fuji lens that is at least semi compatible with the FCP, will jsut have to wait for nauticam to test it :)
@@matthewsullivan4026Oh Yes, I own the 15-45, and have paired it with the MWL, but in my experience, the results are not "brilliant" (I am far from being good at WA) , but assuming it is a cheap, relatively aged lens, I think I can't expect much more. Possibly the results are better with the FCP. The 16-50 is suposed to perform much better than the 15-45, so I was just wandering if this is an option for the fuji system. Thank you very much for your kind answer, I appreciate the effort you make to answer this weird questions!!! 😂 😂
Question regarding the TT Artisan 100mm lens. What port are you seeing it being used with on a Nauticam? also who does custom focus rings?
The first step in this is deciding what extension ring the lens will use. For the Trioplan I have used both a 10mm and a 12mm. I use an extension ring on the lens to bring the focus range closer for UW use. This pushes the lens further from the camera, which impacts the port length and the focus gear positioning. I use a N120 port with my Trioplan with the N100-N120 adaptor on my housing - so that I can use the gear on the adapter ring to focus - as this is more convenient than using the gear inside the housing, which is further back. In the UK Deepshots make custom focus gears. But it is best to find someone reasonably local and take the setup too them for them to measure.
When it comes to the rectilinear WA lenses, Alex mentions a Tamron 17-35 mm lens. Is this the Tamron 17-28 mm F/2.8 Di III RXD lens for Sony E-Mount (another Tamron 17-50mm F/4 lens was recently released and may be meant also)?
Yes, important to catch that one, Wolfgang - the problem of live recordings! I meant 17-28mm Tamron (spell check does not like that word) if you feel a rectilinear wide angle is essential.
Hi Alex & Matt
Love your work and your knowledge. Thank you for all you do.
Please may I be a little cheeky and ask you a few questions since I have been watching your new RUclips channel.
• I have a Sony A1 and a Nauticam housing. I also have a 45 degree viewfinder. You mentioned you customised your C3 button to change between the EV (viewfinder ) and the monitor (screen ) on the back. My issue is that on the Nauticam tray for the A1, it forces you to lift the monitor screen lightly so that it does not turn off. I am then unable to switch between EV and Screen when the screen is in this tilted position. What does everyone else do? I would like to be able to switch between the 2. Is there a way to do this?
• I own the following lenses; 24-70 F2.8 & 16-35 F2.8 I realised how you hated the 16-35 and I appreciate learning from you. My question is do I go out and buy the 28-60 you were talking about or do I use my 24-70 F2.8? If you tell me to go for the 24-60 as there is a big difference then I am happy to do it. I suppose I must also say that currently, I own the following:
37155 SFE1635GM-Z Zoom Gear ~for Sony SEL1635GM FE 16-35mm F2.8 GM
37156 SFE1635GM-F Focus Gear ~for Sony SEL1635GM FE 16-35mm F2.8 GM
37305 N100 to N120 35.5mm Port Adaptor II
21160 Extension Ring 60 with Lock
18809 180mm Optical Glass Wide Angle Port
If you suggest I change everything then I will absolutely listen. If I should use the 24-70 and use a WWL then I will do that too. Just looking for some expert advice please.
Once again, thanks so much for all you do.
Bryan
#TheUnderwaterPhotographyShow #underwaterphotography #sonycamera #nauticam
Alex here: I don't know what the issue is with the screen and tray. I have the same system as you and I have no problem - so I am not sure what the issue is you are experiencing (sorry). You need to pull the LCD screen away from the back of the camera when putting the tray on. In Setup Menu (46/52) make sure Select Finder/Monitor is set to Monitor (Manual), and then in Setup Menu>Operation Customize>Custom Key Setting (stills) set button 5 (C3) to Finder/Monitor Sel. so that you can toggle between them.
Still Alex: Regarding lenses - the 16-35mm is a capable UW lens - and there is no problem using it or getting great images with it. But both Matthew and I prefer fisheye and WWL/WACP lens options for wide angle. Of course such a choice is for underwater use only - and you may decide that is not justifiable for you if the 16-35mm is a major lens for topside.
The 24-70mm is also a great topside lens. Underwater the 28-60mm is a great lens with the WWL/WACP options. And it is pleasingly small and light for packing for dive trips.
So what you have is fine for shooting underwater. What we prefer is in our opinion better. You don't need it immediately and maybe you decide you don't like the look of the fisheye shots you see others shooting. I have not tried the 24-70mm with the WWL (or on land), so I am not sure how well it works. Hope that this helps a little.
Most of all get in the water and enjoy shooting. When you feel like the gear is becoming a limitation for what you are able to do - then you can invest to expand your capabilities.
@@UWPhotoShow Thanks for sucha great channel and all your advice. @Alex, what trigger do you use in your housing to trigger your Rectra Strobes and do you use HSS ever?
@@kimmelb I own several triggers. This is partly because they are not always 100% dependable, partly to have spares for workshops and partly to gain experience of them all. The ones I own are UW Technics, Turtle TTL Manual trigger, and Nauticam's trigger. The first two both do HSS. When they work I like all of them. When I have problems I don't like them!
hello. I am currently torn between two options. The first is an 8-inch dome + Sigma 15mm f2.8 fisheye lens / The second is a 6-inch dome + Sony 1635G lens. Which one would you recommend more? And, how about comparing the image quality of Sigma 15mm f2.8 and Sony 28mm+fisheye converter? Thank you in advance.
For me - fisheye every time. Fisheye shots are far more dramatic. It does depend on what you are shooting - the fisheye can be a bit too wide for shy big animals. But for scenery, wrecks, schools, divers, etc - I'd choose fisheye.
Alex/Matthew, I do a lot of my wide angle (mega fauna) with the Sony f1.8 14mm GM, am I wasting my time (or what am I missing that I don’t know I’m missing using it)? I prefer it over the Tamron 17-28 I have.
Macro, I’m using the Sony 90mm GM, so I’m covered there.
I was going to ask about this lens too. I have been using uw and love it!
If you like the look of rectilinear lenses (these are standard, non-fisheyes) for UW wide angle and you are happy - that is the most important. We have a forthcoming video (probably in February) about the most expensive wide angle ever - and why it is not desirable underwater - that video plans to dive into why fisheye distortion underwater is not a negative, but a positive. An ultra wide standard (non-fisheye) lens can be hard to get edge/corner of frame sharpness underwater. But for me (Alex) it is the fisheye distortion that emphasises the part of the frame that we can light - that really makes them so powerful underwater.
curious to know what you guys think of Sony 12-24. F4 and 2.8 versions. I'm suprised they were not even mentioned. thanks!
I (alex) have not tried either underwater. Usually (non-fisheye) lenses wider than 16mm can struggle to produce sharpness in the corners when shot behind a dome port underwater. So I would never buy one for UW use without testing first - too much expenditure for the chances of it being a good solution. But if you already have the lens for topside shooting then it is always worth using. It may not be perfect in the corners, but then many underwater shots don't require that.
thanks a lot!
Also curious to know what you guys think of the Nikonos 15mm on digital sensors. Do you think it would be worth it?
@@UWPhotoShow
If you are into landscape and astro photography the f2.8 is definitely tempting. Potential corner sharpness issues aside it is probably worthwhile to check if ports exist that can fit the lens. For instance the Sea Frogs ports can't fit the f2.8 lens due to the large diameter of the lens
Hi Matt, which adapter did you use with the 60 mm canon? I tried with Mc-11 and alpha 1 and it was fast but not precise, randomly it loose focus and hunt back and forth even in good light conditions…i sold that lens 😅. Similar feeling (maybe a little better) I had with 60 nikon plus monster adapter, not really impressed… thanks for the video guys 👏👏👏
I think it shows that all the options have limitations. We need some better native macro lenses for Sony.
@@UWPhotoShownow I’m trying a couple of crop sensor lenses 30mm and 50 Zeiss macro for blackwater…
Hey Pietro. The metabones IV seems to work really well with the sony cameras and that canon 60mm.
Nice to hear about the canon 60
One thing i'll note about the Canon 60mm is that it covers a full frame sensor at close distances (the typical range we use underwater) but vignettes at far distances.
There’s a nice UPY shot from the forthcoming results taken with Sony and 60mm.
@@isaacszabo4239 Awesome, I ordered one last night
I ordered the curved port to go with it
I definitely want to try the Canon 60mm. But it not worth the cost of the Metabones adapter for me - which I don't need for anything else. @@byronconroy9324
I have a question would I be able to use a sigma lens 24-70 with the A7R5
Yes, I currently use the Sony A7r5 and the Sigma 24-70 f2. 8.
@dyslexicfrog7426 what dome port setup do you have
@@BlackScubaBear I currently using a Sony A7r5 with a Seafrogs 6" and 8" dome port but I also have the 6" flat port as well. 8" and 6" flat port work with the housing and sigma 24-70 along with the appropriate zoom gear.
Nauticam setup