A guide to bevelling MDF terrain bases
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- Опубликовано: 25 авг 2024
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In this overview, I cover bevelling MDF terrain bases, included the different types of bevels, the tools you can use to achieve them and show you how to get smooth bevelled bases without the need for power tools.
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BTW - the tool you need for this is a spoke shave, or a small block plane - and hold it in a vice or clamp it to the edge of a bench...
***** Noted :-)
Wow perfect timing. I was about to go to my parents and pick up their electric sander. Now after watching this, I will pick up the jigsaw as well.
axis762 Awesome mate, glad the timing worked well for you
That makes sense Mel. Much obliged!
Spencer Whipple no worries mate
Good coverage of this topic. The bare basics are all too often not covered. We tend to forget that there was a day we had almost no idea on how to start. At the moment I am using 1mm thick 3 ply. You can cut it out with scissors or a sharp knife. A couple of swipes of course sand paper and its ready. What I love most about it is I have not had it warp on me. Another tip is that if you do a couple of diagonal applications of sticky tape it helps to reduce warping on 3mm MDF.
James Evans Nice tips mate, do you not have any problems with the ply splitting?
So far splitting has not happened. It is flimsy and handles like thick cardboard and you say to yourself it will never work, but it does. Giving it a slightly beveled edge makes the edge almost disappear on the table. There is a shadow between the table and terrain piece that still gives the show away but this is why Photoshop was invented I suppose.
I forgot to mention you apply the sticky tape to the reverse (under) side. For long or large bases a make a Union Jack pattern with it.
James Evans I'm always on the lookout for new tips and ideas for terrain-making, and this sounds really interesting. Pardon my ignorance, but when you say "1 mm thick 3 ply" what exactly is this? Would you mind posting a link where I can find more info? I've been searching and the closest thing I can find that may be what you're talking about is birch plywood for crafting. But the thinnest I've seen is 1/8" (not 1 mm), so this might not be what you're referring to.
Also, what is "sticky tape"? Duct tape, electrical tape, packing tape, something else? I'm over in the U.S., so that may explain some of the confusion over terminology. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
How the English language divides us. I am not sure what sticky tape is called in the US. Does Cellotape mean anything to you. It is usually clear and wider than 1/2 and it comes in rolls mounted in a suspended. If I want to say take a news clipping and stick it in a scrap book by the corners it would use it or to stick a note or recipe to the refrigerator door I would use this tape. It will not stop you base from warping entirely but it goes a long way in reducing it. From memory 1mm is approximately 1/32 of an inch. Most of the type I have used it made from birch and I order it from a hobby supplier about 110 miles away. It is mostly used by hobbyists that make model sailing ships from wood for display rather than radio controlled and is normally available from hobby or craft stores that specializes in supply of wood and other materials for making model boats. If you ask at a lumberyard they will look at you as if you are stupid. It is not cheap like MDF but with zero warpage and the way you have almost no edge to blend into your tabletop I think it is worth it. Thank you for asking John and I hope I have answered your questions.
Great tips on bevelling. Thanks for sharing.
Stronghold Crafter Kev No worries mate
Good stuff. Worth the effort. I myself have been lazy over the years and have been using corrugated cardboard or foam card for bases on my smaller pieces. Not the best option (the cardboard), but it does work if you go light on the glues (avoiding the warp-factor).
Kurtus Brown If it works, go with it mate :-)
Greetings Mel. I've been watching your shows for a few months now and wanted to let you know how much I enjoy them and how much I've learned from you. Also, please tell your wife how important your work is to guys like me, and how much I appreciate her patience in allowing you to do your work. Sorry I missed the response to your "Important Message" vid (a few weeks back) to say thanks to your wife (Caz?), but it took me a while to figure out how to post this comment going through Google and setting up Facebook. (I really don't do social media stuff). Anyway, thanks for your efforts and willingness to share. Fritz Mueller
Fritz Mueller Thanks glad they're helping, I think she's got the idea now matey :-)
Thanks, Mel. I appreciate this.
DukensteinA1 glad it helped mate
Just the info i was looking for. cheers.
InsidiousBlackOps No worries mate
Nice guide bud
***** Cheers matey
***** Is there still time for people to jump on the terrain square comp?
TheTerrainTutor
yep, projects have to be complete on 11th April though
Useful as always. :) I do it the same way.
***** Great minds ;-)
I use a wood rasp/ file. Much less chance for injury and it won't dull like a blade. Then i smooth it off with sand paper.
Tyler Lucas Always seemed more work than using a blade but if it works, go for it matey
TheTerrainTutor To be totally honest, this particular video was truly 'cringe' worthy. I'm certain that if people try this that there will be injury. Maybe a video showing a way to place the board on a table edge and very clearly showing the hands well behind the blade would be more appropriate? I dunno. Sorry to be so critical. I love your videos normally and really do hold you in highest regard mate.
Maybe think about using 6mm birch ply instead of MDF. It's dimensionally stable, sands and cuts as well as MDF and is less hazardous. It costs maybe £30-35 for a standard 4'x8' sheet at 6mm if you buy it from a timber merchant. Just don't buy spruce ply - it has a much rougher finish. Do all your machining outdoors.
***** I've checkout birch ply, that's for the heads up mate
So I've got a mind to build a large castle/cathedral building out of the Hirst Arts castle molds (dental plaster bricks). Total weight would likely hit 15/20lbs (or 9.07kg for those across the pond). Would a piece of MDF be sufficient for a base on it? I don't like the look of plywood bases, and plywood is fairly expensive around here.
Depends on the base size of your castle and how much of a rim around it you want mate
he mel you can use led's to maby upgread the terain with light. maby you can make a tutorial abaut that :)
on the list mate
Sweet 😇 if you need any help i can help you. I am a programmer of micocontrolers :)
Would love to see how you use the dremel on bases :-)
Tollmart Greybeard Next time I do, I'll film it mate
Great! thank you :-)
PS: Your bevelling techniques are quite good. I use the dremel mostly. Never thought of using a knife. But then, I'm not supposed to have sharp objects in my possession ;->
Fritz Mueller I probably shouldn't have sharp things in my possession!
Great vid as always. I was actually thinking about doing some of these tonight. Got so worried about you every time you finished a cut. Be extremely careful if you use a blade to bevel. It really isn't too expensive to get a jig saw (I just bought one for $30 just for war terrain) and some sand paper (or a sanding tool). Personally I am going to be trying the Dremel I got for Christmas to make the slopes really smooth.To finish these, what do you use to seal as that thin of board would warp I'd assume with pva glue? Some sort of primer sealer or is there a different product you'd recommend?
Dan Bellinger I'm fine mate but thanks for your concern, I rarely bevel with a blade now but I suppose I'm a relic of older times when knives were just tools lol. I don't really seal them primer to building unless they're not got to be texturer with grit etc, then I'll give them a covering of filler/spackle mate :-)
Hey Mel, what would you think of using a cutting attachment on the dremel to cut the pieces out? I've got one I want to put through its paces and I was wondering if you thought it would work on 3mm. Thanks!
Spencer Whipple I suppose it would depend on how curved your bases were, cutting attachments a good for straight lines but they struggle on curves mate
Great video Mel.
Can I please ask a favour? Can you tell me what is the best glue to use to stick Hirst Arts castings together? I live in England so you can tell me if there is a specific brand or type of glue to use to get a really strong bond.
Many thanks,
JJAB
I just used to use decorator's pva from B&Q. Nice and cheap.
Tacky Glue.. Works great and holds the pieces square.. after a couple minutes you just makes sure everything is straight then off to the next thing.
Cheers guys, looks like I will be popping out to the shops at the weekend. Many thanks.
jjab99 for the amount you need, go to a craft / art shop and get a ltr mate. If it's really runny, poor it all in a bowl, leave it a couple of hours to thicken and then pour it back in the bottle mate :-)
Cheers Mel. I'll give it a go. many thanks.
Exactly what is MDF?
It's a board made out of sawdust and glue mate
I cut mine out with a jig saw as well then bevel the edges with an orbital sander similar to the one on the following link. Cheaper than a belt sander and easier to control in my opinion. I don't know how much they would be on the other side of the pond for your. www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-RO100-5-Inch-Random/dp/B0000302V3
SmittyM14 I've tried bevelling with my normal sander and it wasn't really viable, so I'd dismissed an orbital one. So you reckon it's worth giving it a go mate?
I tried with a normal sander also and it was a pain. I would give the orbital one a shot. I'll put a quick video together tomorrow showing you how it works and looks so you can judge for yourself. :)
Dont forget to count yer fingers after yer through! Yikes! When I do things of this nature, I clamp it to the corner of a work table with a C clamp. Use a wood block to pad it with if you're affraid of denting it. This way you have both hands free, and safely away from the blade. If the table gives you a problem with positioning, you can make a bridge. Take a piece of material the same thickness of your workpiece and set it a few inches away. Put a wooden "bridge" over them both. Clamp in the middle of the bridge. Thanx for the video, cheers!
Bill D. in Iowa Haven't lost one yet but that's good advice matey
Too dangerous a technique in my view, clamping the piece would be a lot safer and give the same result.
Andrew Dale I'm obviously a relic from an earlier time mate :-)
Ouch, watch your watchmacallits ! :)
Jon Simpson I always cut away from my watchmacallits! ;-)
I love your videos but this one is so cringe worthy once you get to doing it by hand. A simple slip and you can seriously hurt yourself😬 you really need to keep sharp blades away from your femoral artery...