Thanks for the videos. 4 years time between disassembly and reassembly has a tendency to fog a lot of the things I thought I'd never forget. I get lots of light bulb moments watching you explain things. Thank God for the internet.
Same thing happened to my lower bushing spacers. They basically welded themselves to the fulcrum shaft. I used a thin angle grinder to cut a spiral grove in the spacer. I then peeled the metal away, like you are doing. The trick is not to score the fulcrum shaft by going too deep on the cut. I don't think a little "nick" here and there does any damage though. And you can bet, when I put new bushings on, that there will be PLENTY of anti-seize compound inside. Speaking of this phenomenon, some of the bolts did the same thing in the blocks which mounted inside the lower picture frame. What a #%^$#@& THAT was getting those things removed. Then I had to drill out the bolt shafts on my drill press. Once you drill the bolt thin enough, it finally releases when you hit it with a punch. You might want to try this on your upper split arm. It'll be tricky because you have threads to worry about. But drill it, heat it, and see if an easy-out will do the trick. If that doesn't do it, drill a little larger, and repeat. But a regular bolt shaft is WAY easier.
Classic Car Cave Hello mate how the devil are ya. I think this has been a busy five years for all of us 😁 Talk about start stop with projects for me. I seem to start to make progress and circumstances contrive to bugger me up. 😂 I’m Glad to see you’re still at it though. Good on ya.
Classic Car Cave You should see the MG I was working on. I think it came from the deck of the Titanic. I did the bulk of the nasty welding then I heard from a young lad who was asking for someone to sell him a project car to build in to a Sebring. I wanted to get back to the Jag so I passed it on to him to complete. Hi May start filming again but at the moment I’m just trying to make some head way in to the job list. In the meantime I’ve bought a 3.8 Mk2 for a future project. God help me. 😂
Dave I'm going to replace the front brakes on my series 3 V12 soon and was looking to see if you had done a video of disc replacement! can't find one!! I assume this is straight forward but would appreciate your advice cheers
Keith, I used brand new shims all round but used a micrometer to check the old shims when i stripped the car down for the restoration and used all the factory thickness and settings. Cheers David.
Ah, I see, I doubt if the factory settings will be spot on though, I changed engine frames on mine which meant that all the shim data didn't work, but got it all correct in the end, you must be running the car now though so were your camber and castor correct ??
Keith, I had it pre checked by computer before the TUV Austrian MOT test. Everything was well with in tolerance apart from the tracking due to a new steering rack. I drove to the UK and back the first year from Vienna. plus we did a tour around the cotswolds with the E Type club. All the best David.
Great, !! saw it was LHD but thought it was a UK car and owner originally...I'm still not sure of the computerised check on my castor as there were an equal amount of threads showing before my rebuild, and now they are not equal, but saying that, the handling is fine, I also have an adjustable reaction plate, have to remove the front pipes to get at it though, mine are non standard like yours...
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Thanks for the videos. 4 years time between disassembly and reassembly has a tendency to fog a lot of the things I thought I'd never forget. I get lots of light bulb moments watching you explain things. Thank God for the internet.
Jeff, This video is coming up for 6 years old. tbh i had forgotten just how much work i put in to the car lol. Cheers Dave
Same thing happened to my lower bushing spacers. They basically welded themselves to the fulcrum shaft. I used a thin angle grinder to cut a spiral grove in the spacer. I then peeled the metal away, like you are doing. The trick is not to score the fulcrum shaft by going too deep on the cut. I don't think a little "nick" here and there does any damage though. And you can bet, when I put new bushings on, that there will be PLENTY of anti-seize compound inside. Speaking of this phenomenon, some of the bolts did the same thing in the blocks which mounted inside the lower picture frame. What a #%^$#@& THAT was getting those things removed. Then I had to drill out the bolt shafts on my drill press. Once you drill the bolt thin enough, it finally releases when you hit it with a punch. You might want to try this on your upper split arm. It'll be tricky because you have threads to worry about. But drill it, heat it, and see if an easy-out will do the trick. If that doesn't do it, drill a little larger, and repeat. But a regular bolt shaft is WAY easier.
Video fest started Dave. I'll send a proper reply to your mail later today during a commercial break. 😀 this stuff is pure gold for me.
Thank you & I‘m very sorry for the reply over 5 years too late. Cheers Dave
Classic Car Cave Hello mate how the devil are ya. I think this has been a busy five years for all of us 😁 Talk about start stop with projects for me. I seem to start to make progress and circumstances contrive to bugger me up. 😂
I’m
Glad to see you’re still at it though. Good on ya.
@@CaptainBash737 Thanks we have built a few more cars since then lol. Maybe have a catch up with some of the stuff we have been up to.
Cheers Dave
Classic Car Cave
You should see the MG I was working on. I think it came from the deck of the Titanic. I did the bulk of the nasty welding then I heard from a young lad who was asking for someone to sell him a project car to build in to a Sebring. I wanted to get back to the Jag so I passed it on to him to complete. Hi May start filming again but at the moment I’m just trying to make some head way in to the job list. In the meantime I’ve bought a 3.8 Mk2 for a future project. God help me. 😂
Good job Dave! Thanks for posting.
Craig, Thanks & Sorry for the not replying for over 5 years. Cheers Dave
I have no idea what spacers were used for the front suspension on my 1962 XKE. You counted many on each side. How can I determine what I need?
Bari, Check the green E Type manual and it should give you some measurements or distances as i said it is a bit of trail and error. Cheers Dave
Dave I'm going to replace the front brakes on my series 3 V12 soon and was looking to see if you had done a video of disc replacement! can't find one!! I assume this is straight forward but would appreciate your advice cheers
Adrian, No problems just drop me an email on davejaguar66@gmail.com Take care David.
Dave. Great videos. Can't find address for the guy that makes the spinner removal tool. Thanks Bucky
Rob, Sorry i just found this today So sorry for the 5 year late reply. Do you still need the spinner tool or did i give you the info? Cheers Dave
Why use rusty shims when new are availabe ??
Keith, I used brand new shims all round but used a micrometer to check the old shims when i stripped the car down for the restoration and used all the factory thickness and settings. Cheers David.
Ah, I see, I doubt if the factory settings will be spot on though, I changed engine frames on mine which meant that all the shim data didn't work, but got it all correct in the end, you must be running the car now though so were your camber and castor correct ??
Keith, I had it pre checked by computer before the TUV Austrian MOT test. Everything was well with in tolerance apart from the tracking due to a new steering rack. I drove to the UK and back the first year from Vienna. plus we did a tour around the cotswolds with the E Type club. All the best David.
Great, !! saw it was LHD but thought it was a UK car and owner originally...I'm still not sure of the computerised check on my castor as there were an equal amount of threads showing before my rebuild, and now they are not equal, but saying that, the handling is fine, I also have an adjustable reaction plate, have to remove the front pipes to get at it though, mine are non standard like yours...