Thank you so so much for making this video! Our washer just had this exact same problem but all the other videos had me thinking I was going to have to replace my motor!!! So glad I found yours!!
Pretty cool that a tiny little washer brought that sucker back to life! That’s an old school machine made before they went all high efficiency, digital and agitator-less. That was from back when you could still work on them. Basically it’s a Maytag Performa series with one of the last of the great helical drive transmissions (albeit a cheapo scaled back version) from back when Whirlpool first bought Maytag around 2005 or 6. When the motor goes forward it drives the transmission gearbox which is what turns the rotating motion into back and forth oscillation for the agitator. When the motor goes in reverse it pulls down that shaft, releases the brake and spins everything - tub, transmission, everything - and pumps out at the same time (pump only drains when driven in reverse direction). The timer basically just makes the motor run in forward for agitate or reverse for drain and spin. That thing with the 200 pound spring in it is called the brake package. It locks down the tub when the agitator is running so your clothes won’t get all knotted up, it also jams the brake on when the spin cycle gets interrupted or ends. It was an excellent design that served Maytag well for many decades, I really miss ‘em. We used to make some really good stuff in this country once upon a time!! I love these videos, nobody does interesting stuff like this!
Liked & subscribed! That was a masterful troubleshoot & diy repair. We should all be able to diagnose & fix appliances with this degree of technology intelligence & basic tool using ability. You are an inspiration!
I FIRST WORKED ON THESE NORGE WASHERS IN 1981. IT WAS THE SAME ALREADY AT THAT TIME. SOMETIME IN THE LATE 70'S, THE SEAL WAS CHANGED FROM A REALLY GOOD CRANE SEAL TO A TRASHY DESIGN MEANT TO WEAR OUT SLOWLY AND WEEP WATER THROUGH TO THE TOP BEARING. AT THAT TIME THERE WAS A BRASS FUNNEL TO DIRECT THE WATER RIGHT INTO THE BEARING. MADE PERFECT SENSE IF VIEWED FORM THE VIEWPOINT OF INSTALLING OBSOLESCENCE. CHANGE ONLY THE SEAL AND THE BEARING. THE WEEPING SEAL CAUSED THE GREASE TO BE WASHED OUT OF THE BEARING AND RUST HAPPENED ZIPPY QUICK. THIS IS A BLATANT INSTALLATION OF OBSOLESCENCE. THESE WASHERS , WHEN IN GOOD OPERATING CONDITION ARE CAPABLE OF WASHING A LOAD OF HOUSTON TELEPHONE BOOKS IF YOU CAN FIND TWENTY POUNDS OF THEM
Whirlpool had no hand in design and manufacture of this machine, it was produced before Whirlpool bought Maytag in 2006. It's also not a Maytag design, the mechanicals are Norge or Amana (which are nearly identical). Magic Chef bought Norge in 1979, Maytag bought Magic Chef in 1986. Maytag bought Amana in 2001. Incorporating the Norge/Amana design into Maytag's laundry line garnered them a larger capacity washer without the cost of modifying their own design. Servicers sometimes refer to them as Norgetags and Amanatags. The classic Maytag washer design has two belts. Norge/Amana has one belt.
I believe it was a Norge design. Back in 2006 we bought one from The Home Depot. It was very rough, and hard on the clothes. It ripped sheets as it washed. When it spinner on the spin cycle, the entire floor shook and wall vibrated. Tried to return/exchange, and they would not take it back. Ended up buying another genuine Maytag from an appliance store, and had them take this one away. I never had an Amana wash like that. If the problem is not the thrust bearing, the problem may be in the transmission itself.
Great job explaining. Only thing this is not a whirlpool washer at all, this was made by Norge for Maytag when it was acquired by Maytag. These washers do a spin drain. They don't drain separately when the timer goes into the spin mode, the tub starts rotating and draining at the same time.
No, please continue to toss great items. I love finding them. I can't tell you how many engine powered items I've garbage picked, easily repaired and then sold . Push and riding mowers, mini bikes, a 1980s kx250 dirt bike and even a golf cart
This basic design dates back to the 60's and Norge. Was retailed through Norge, Montgery Ward (Signature), Western Auto (Wizard) and others. It was a decent design, but over the years some parts were redesigned for cost reduction including the tub seal and drive system. Steel components where replace by Plastic. Transmission life became shorter by using internal Plastic gears. Maytag got this design when they bought Magic Chef (1986). Maytag sold it under the "Performa and Atlantis" product names. They were budget lines. They cleaned quite well. (But not long life) like a Traditional Maytag. When WhirlPool bought Maytag in 2006 they Scrapped all Maytag designs and engineering. They use the "Maytag" name on Whirlpool machines. Under the Label they are Whirlpool. The closest you can get to an Old School Maytag 25 - 35 year machine that your parents or grand parents talk about is the Speed Queen TC series. They are expensive but long term are usually worth it. An exellent and very informative Video by Fixo.
Maytag also bought Norge when they were still their own company. Maytag also had the same technology as Speed Queen. If you want the technology that Maytag had today the closest thing available is Speed Queen.
I've decided when giving the opportunity, I'm going to purchase industrial grade washer and dryer, like the kind that are used in laundry Mats. They take years of punishment .
I just did this fix. Amazing find! I had to grind down the washer and e-clip slightly to get it to fit, but the result was that the spin cycle works now like new! You can’t get the brake rotor or hub anymore from any parts place I checked, but this fix is way cheaper and better! Thanks again for posting this video!
Your " FIX" was a good diagnosis on very shot tub bearings, pull the tub, get the bearing numbers and order from China, the seals should also have part numbers...the key to cheap repairs in the new world!
We have the same issue with our Maytag. The technician tinker with it just like you did got it to spin. However the spin cycle is 10 times louder than before so I’m thinking we may need the bearing replaced? It’s sounded like a rough dry spin. Thank you and your video tutorial is very informative!
My maytag atlantis over size washer, washes but with a rumble. I took off the agitator and the grooves looked fine. It spins, so ive been hand washing and spinning our clothes.
I HAVE THIS THIS WASHER, MODEL mav6260AWW, sticker on back says "made in Newton, IA, I love it! On my "dashboard", the extra rinse button is between the triple knob area and the cycles knob. And yes, it should have spun out the "dirty" water right before the "rinse", the "rinse" would have filled with clean water, and then the "spin" function would have emptied the tub. I always use the extra rinse, just me I guess. My BIG QUESTION FOR YOU IF YOU KNOW, we had our washer looked at once years ago by Maytag, and I swear he lowered the "water level" on the fill. How do adjust the water level back up to what it was? It only fills 2/3 of the way, with or without clothes in it. I always end up adding an amount of water, like 3 gallons, in order to do a regular full load, no jeans, no towels. I hate doing half loads of laundry because the "fill level" is so low. I can't find this washing machine model/look anywhere else on RUclips, Thanks!
@@Fixologist1 the fill is not governed by the timer. It’s by the water level switch. It could be adjusted higher. There’s a screw in there (behind control panel on water level control) has to be turned, a half a turn will raise the water level about an inch.
The issue isn't necessarily a throw-away mentality of the consumer, a significant factor is that the machines are so cheap that there aren't enough professional and affordable alternatives available to get it fixed. Where I live one would need to pay at least $75 to get someone out to add that little washer, while knowing that the machine may have additional problems and still might not work. The repair cost, and any potential delay waiting for parts, adds up quickly and it often makes sense to just to spend a little more and get a new one. People spend much more money to repair their automobile than it would cost to fix this machine, even in the worst case for this machine. Because a new auto costs so much making an investment in a business to fix them is feasible.
I don't disagree with that, but there was a time in the not-too-distant past that you really had to weigh the difference between a major auto repair cost versus simply buying new. Clearly, this is no longer the case. Repairing the vehicle you have is almost always the more viable option. Vehicle costs are outrageous these days
Its sad companies charge crazy prices for parts. It would be great if companies would standardize bearings and basic parts. But money is there' main focus.I think in the long run companies would prosper if they would do the right thing.
Paused @ 0:37 to venture my likely diagnosis. Either the lid switch itself. Or the little tab that pushes the switch is broken off. I've bypassed so many of those switches on roadside-find washers. It's usually the 1st thing l check...
Filthy washer. I replaced the bearing and everything below it, and the 2 dribe belts, for about $30 3 yrs ago. It wasnt yukky like that machine. The belts had worn and there were black flakes but no grease or rust or other crud. Worked like a charm, fixed the no spin problem. That washer looks like is was in a place that got standing water.
The mfgs don't want us filthy peasants doing our own repairs. I have a GE washer that needs a gearbox (puddle of oil under the machine), the price for that is half of a new machine so in the cellar it rots! I usually wedge the lid switch in the ON position for troubleshooting.
Thank you! Is your RUclips email address also your PayPal address? If so, I'll transfer you some money to buy you a beer. This video probably saved me hours!
After tiny fix cost, washer was found to be leaking underneath in last part of presentation. Honestly, this could cost thousands if not known. Cost of flooring, ect. Love the idea's you had for sustainability and product developement, but this unit would have ultimately hurt the users' finances. We are not living in a third world. Cut your losses and buy another unit. Hype should be placed on the production of units that are made in the USA with minimal outsourcing of parts. Send the old units overseas or fix if you make more from fixing them. Of note, it will be too expensive to ship overseas and not profitable to fix and sell for profit regionally when labor, parts, and good will of a warranty is in play.
I dont think you understand how that washer works because the timer has absolutely nothing to do with the washer spinning at all. Because once you see the washer pumping water out it should be spinning because it does a spin drain it doesn't do a neutral drain it is Not a whirlpool direct drive washer it is a maytag Atlantis so it is supposed to do a spin drain.
Not fixed. Junk. Bearing jobs on most washers is a 50/50 success rate IMO. When water leaks through the bearing,metal gets damaged and sometimes the new bearing kit cannot be installed. I can fix most things on washers and dryers but bad bearings are not worth it to me. Also,we can't blame everthing on the manufacturer, when people overload them Wash on 🤘!
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Thank you so so much for making this video! Our washer just had this exact same problem but all the other videos had me thinking I was going to have to replace my motor!!! So glad I found yours!!
Pretty cool that a tiny little washer brought that sucker back to life! That’s an old school machine made before they went all high efficiency, digital and agitator-less. That was from back when you could still work on them. Basically it’s a Maytag Performa series with one of the last of the great helical drive transmissions (albeit a cheapo scaled back version) from back when Whirlpool first bought Maytag around 2005 or 6. When the motor goes forward it drives the transmission gearbox which is what turns the rotating motion into back and forth oscillation for the agitator. When the motor goes in reverse it pulls down that shaft, releases the brake and spins everything - tub, transmission, everything - and pumps out at the same time (pump only drains when driven in reverse direction). The timer basically just makes the motor run in forward for agitate or reverse for drain and spin. That thing with the 200 pound spring in it is called the brake package. It locks down the tub when the agitator is running so your clothes won’t get all knotted up, it also jams the brake on when the spin cycle gets interrupted or ends. It was an excellent design that served Maytag well for many decades, I really miss ‘em. We used to make some really good stuff in this country once upon a time!! I love these videos, nobody does interesting stuff like this!
Spoiler alert, bro.
Thanks for the video. Was going to get the whole gear set and ended up replacing the eclip that was broken. Saved some money!
Liked & subscribed! That was a masterful troubleshoot & diy repair. We should all be able to diagnose & fix appliances with this degree of technology intelligence & basic tool using ability. You are an inspiration!
I FIRST WORKED ON THESE NORGE WASHERS IN 1981. IT WAS THE SAME ALREADY AT THAT TIME. SOMETIME IN THE LATE 70'S, THE SEAL WAS CHANGED FROM A REALLY GOOD CRANE SEAL TO A TRASHY DESIGN MEANT TO WEAR OUT SLOWLY AND WEEP WATER THROUGH TO THE TOP BEARING. AT THAT TIME THERE WAS A BRASS FUNNEL TO DIRECT THE WATER RIGHT INTO THE BEARING. MADE PERFECT SENSE IF VIEWED FORM THE VIEWPOINT OF INSTALLING OBSOLESCENCE. CHANGE ONLY THE SEAL AND THE BEARING. THE WEEPING SEAL CAUSED THE GREASE TO BE WASHED OUT OF THE BEARING AND RUST HAPPENED ZIPPY QUICK.
THIS IS A BLATANT INSTALLATION OF OBSOLESCENCE. THESE WASHERS , WHEN IN GOOD OPERATING CONDITION ARE CAPABLE OF WASHING A LOAD OF HOUSTON TELEPHONE BOOKS IF YOU CAN FIND TWENTY POUNDS OF THEM
Well done Brad. Gonna miss these if you are done for the season.
Whirlpool had no hand in design and manufacture of this machine, it was produced before Whirlpool bought Maytag in 2006. It's also not a Maytag design, the mechanicals are Norge or Amana (which are nearly identical). Magic Chef bought Norge in 1979, Maytag bought Magic Chef in 1986. Maytag bought Amana in 2001. Incorporating the Norge/Amana design into Maytag's laundry line garnered them a larger capacity washer without the cost of modifying their own design. Servicers sometimes refer to them as Norgetags and Amanatags. The classic Maytag washer design has two belts. Norge/Amana has one belt.
Thanks for the comment. What year did this design originate?
I believe it was a Norge design. Back in 2006 we bought one from The Home Depot. It was very rough, and hard on the clothes. It ripped sheets as it washed. When it spinner on the spin cycle, the entire floor shook and wall vibrated. Tried to return/exchange, and they would not take it back. Ended up buying another genuine Maytag from an appliance store, and had them take this one away. I never had an Amana wash like that.
If the problem is not the thrust bearing, the problem may be in the transmission itself.
Great job explaining. Only thing this is not a whirlpool washer at all, this was made by Norge for Maytag when it was acquired by Maytag. These washers do a spin drain. They don't drain separately when the timer goes into the spin mode, the tub starts rotating and draining at the same time.
Another awesome job, Brad + a moral to the story. Don't automatically throw shit away.
No, please continue to toss great items. I love finding them.
I can't tell you how many engine powered items I've garbage picked, easily repaired and then sold . Push and riding mowers, mini bikes, a 1980s kx250 dirt bike and even a golf cart
This basic design dates back to the 60's and Norge. Was retailed through Norge, Montgery Ward (Signature), Western Auto (Wizard) and others. It was a decent design, but over the years some parts were redesigned for cost reduction including the tub seal and drive system. Steel components where replace by Plastic. Transmission life became shorter by using internal Plastic gears. Maytag got this design when they bought Magic Chef (1986). Maytag sold it under the "Performa and Atlantis" product names. They were budget lines. They cleaned quite well. (But not long life) like a Traditional Maytag. When WhirlPool bought Maytag in 2006 they Scrapped all Maytag designs and engineering. They use the "Maytag" name on Whirlpool machines. Under the Label they are Whirlpool.
The closest you can get to an Old School Maytag 25 - 35 year machine that your parents or grand parents talk about is the Speed Queen TC series. They are expensive but long term are usually worth it. An exellent and very informative Video by Fixo.
Maytag also bought Norge when they were still their own company. Maytag also had the same technology as Speed Queen. If you want the technology that Maytag had today the closest thing available is Speed Queen.
Nice one Brad: I'm sure I seen that control panel on Star Trek years ago... lol - good job.
I highly appreciate you making this video,I did what you did and it now works perfectly,again,thanks
I have the same washer still going strong
I've decided when giving the opportunity, I'm going to purchase industrial grade washer and dryer, like the kind that are used in laundry Mats. They take years of punishment .
I just did this fix. Amazing find! I had to grind down the washer and e-clip slightly to get it to fit, but the result was that the spin cycle works now like new! You can’t get the brake rotor or hub anymore from any parts place I checked, but this fix is way cheaper and better! Thanks again for posting this video!
So glad it's helping people keep these off the curb.
Nice work spin doctor.
All in all it was a great summer season.
Nice work Brad !
Your " FIX" was a good diagnosis on very shot tub bearings, pull the tub, get the bearing numbers and order from China, the seals should also have part numbers...the key to cheap repairs in the new world!
bearing and mounting stem which comes with the mechanical seal is needed to fix the noise issue pretty pricey
Holy Crap! What's that thing got for a motor,? A Pratt and Whitney?!
For future testing use a "Y" fitting for the water
We have the same issue with our Maytag. The technician tinker with it just like you did got it to spin. However the spin cycle is 10 times louder than before so I’m thinking we may need the bearing replaced? It’s sounded like a rough dry spin. Thank you and your video tutorial is very informative!
Man, thank you so much for making this video… So helpful, you helped me fix my washing machine. Appreciate it very much.
Thanks I got the same dolly flat tire.
Thanks Brad, I've really enjoyed and learned a few things from this series.
Looks like the rabbit calling cycle is working fine so thats good
My maytag atlantis over size washer, washes but with a rumble. I took off the agitator and the grooves looked fine. It spins, so ive been hand washing and spinning our clothes.
What could it be? I have the same washer like the one in your video.
Enjoyed the commentary at the end.
great troubleshooting!
Word brother. Well said. Great troubleshooting and repairing.
21:18 stop is amazing
I HAVE THIS THIS WASHER, MODEL mav6260AWW, sticker on back says "made in Newton, IA, I love it! On my "dashboard", the extra rinse button is between the triple knob area and the cycles knob. And yes, it should have spun out the "dirty" water right before the "rinse", the "rinse" would have filled with clean water, and then the "spin" function would have emptied the tub. I always use the extra rinse, just me I guess. My BIG QUESTION FOR YOU IF YOU KNOW, we had our washer looked at once years ago by Maytag, and I swear he lowered the "water level" on the fill. How do adjust the water level back up to what it was? It only fills 2/3 of the way, with or without clothes in it. I always end up adding an amount of water, like 3 gallons, in order to do a regular full load, no jeans, no towels. I hate doing half loads of laundry because the "fill level" is so low. I can't find this washing machine model/look anywhere else on RUclips, Thanks!
Fill level is governed by the timer. You must have had the timer changed.
@@Fixologist1 the fill is not governed by the timer. It’s by the water level switch. It could be adjusted higher. There’s a screw in there (behind control panel on water level control) has to be turned, a half a turn will raise the water level about an inch.
I also have a washer like that but my timer has burnt contracts and didn't go into rinse mode
The issue isn't necessarily a throw-away mentality of the consumer, a significant factor is that the machines are so cheap that there aren't enough professional and affordable alternatives available to get it fixed.
Where I live one would need to pay at least $75 to get someone out to add that little washer, while knowing that the machine may have additional problems and still might not work. The repair cost, and any potential delay waiting for parts, adds up quickly and it often makes sense to just to spend a little more and get a new one.
People spend much more money to repair their automobile than it would cost to fix this machine, even in the worst case for this machine. Because a new auto costs so much making an investment in a business to fix them is feasible.
I don't disagree with that, but there was a time in the not-too-distant past that you really had to weigh the difference between a major auto repair cost versus simply buying new. Clearly, this is no longer the case. Repairing the vehicle you have is almost always the more viable option. Vehicle costs are outrageous these days
Yes they are. Government has seen to that.
Its sad companies charge crazy prices for parts. It would be great if companies would standardize bearings and basic parts. But money is there' main focus.I think in the long run companies would prosper if they would do the right thing.
Paused @ 0:37 to venture my likely diagnosis. Either the lid switch itself. Or the little tab that pushes the switch is broken off.
I've bypassed so many of those switches on roadside-find washers. It's usually the 1st thing l check...
Great information Brad!
Filthy washer. I replaced the bearing and everything below it, and the 2 dribe belts, for about $30 3 yrs ago. It wasnt yukky like that machine. The belts had worn and there were black flakes but no grease or rust or other crud. Worked like a charm, fixed the no spin problem. That washer looks like is was in a place that got standing water.
Twas a Loud day in Louisville.
What size washer did you add?
No good deed goes unpunished.
1st post is right and this is not a Whirlpool built is a Maytag built washer
Some most have ‘hot rodded’ that washer.
Always bypass lid switch…
WoULD NOT WAN'T TO BE A BUG UNDER THAT !
RABBIT DRAIN< RABBIT DRAIN!😆
The mfgs don't want us filthy peasants doing our own repairs. I have a GE washer that needs a gearbox (puddle of oil under the machine), the price for that is half of a new machine so in the cellar it rots! I usually wedge the lid switch in the ON position for troubleshooting.
Thank you!
Is your RUclips email address also your PayPal address?
If so, I'll transfer you some money to buy you a beer. This video probably saved me hours!
Thanks for the offer. Yes, my paypal address is the same. There's a paypal tip link in the description also. Thanks for that! Glad it helped you out.
After tiny fix cost, washer was found to be leaking underneath in last part of presentation. Honestly, this could cost thousands if not known. Cost of flooring, ect. Love the idea's you had for sustainability and product developement, but this unit would have ultimately hurt the users' finances. We are not living in a third world. Cut your losses and buy another unit. Hype should be placed on the production of units that are made in the USA with minimal outsourcing of parts. Send the old units overseas or fix if you make more from fixing them. Of note, it will be too expensive to ship overseas and not profitable to fix and sell for profit regionally when labor, parts, and good will of a warranty is in play.
I dont think you understand how that washer works because the timer has absolutely nothing to do with the washer spinning at all. Because once you see the washer pumping water out it should be spinning because it does a spin drain it doesn't do a neutral drain it is Not a whirlpool direct drive washer it is a maytag Atlantis so it is supposed to do a spin drain.
Rude
Not fixed. Junk. Bearing jobs on most washers is a 50/50 success rate IMO. When water leaks through the bearing,metal gets damaged and sometimes the new bearing kit cannot be installed. I can fix most things on washers and dryers but bad bearings are not worth it to me. Also,we can't blame everthing on the manufacturer, when people overload them
Wash on 🤘!
If the motor runs in the drain and spin direction… trying different cycles does nothing… you need to learn more on how to be a technician…
You need to learn to formulate a sentence with proper syntax and grammar. Start with losing all the ellipses.
this is NOT Whirlpool its maytag
There are several brands they put on this exact same machine.
@@Fixologist1 replacement parts for this machine are now sold by whirlpool because they bought out maytag but maytag/norge manufactured it