I think it was smart to just focus on the cutting edge. No benefit in thinning out the whole steel trying to chase a mirror finish like so many of the other “restoration” guys on here. Totally practical, effective, and satisfying job!
Nice video Chris! That's a great find and restore! Love seeing old handforged tools restored! That is a pretty massive slick! Great job on the handle as well! Keep up the great work and sharing it with us!
Only thing I'd do would be to coat the blade in something or put some bluing agent on it to help stave off rust I like the look of it being "rustic" it looks damn good Chris
annealing is usefull if the steel is hardened "heat tempered" the body of the slick is iron ... only the tip is steel it's forged welded piece thats where the line under the blade come from
Was this a re-upload? I could have sworn I saw most of this. I assumed that you would round the edge of the slick in this one. I know the edge is the primary concern, and I wonder if automotive body filler was applied to the pits if it might make keeping it clean easier so there’s less pits for sawdust and moisture to gather?
Enjoyed this tremendously. More than the individual parts of your efforts, I like your style. I recently acquired a 2 1/4" slick in better condition than yours admittedly, bent though and with a chunk missing out of the handle. Question: what would be a clever (expeditious) way to flatten the back fully without relying on a machine shop? (I am sure sandpaper on melamine would work, but would take forever in my case with the hand forged slick showing quite a few undulations in the finished product). I would like a straight back to help with timberframing in the next 2-3 years. Btw, I physically laughed out loud when you said you didnt want a normal handle, and I found it quite inspiring too. I would like to make something of similar length just for kicks, and make it out of a tree branch with all the natural bends etc for character sakes. Maple or even Alder good in your opinion for this hand driven equipment? Lastly, I am going to take time to watch your other vids. I love your human powered tools showing in this vid, so I'll subscribe.
Thanks for the comment and subscribing! A belt sender would do to flatten the blade provided you didn't let the blade get too hot. I like your idea of using tree branch - that will look great! Good luck and take care. Chris
the blade is way more pretty with this beautiful old iron visible structure texture. no need to remove more material. and the tip of blade could have been reforged instaed of cut . this would have saved two generation of use one for the cut and one for the material removed by grinding .
Hey Chris I noticed I a video you sometimes give away drawknives. I have been looking for years around local flea markets. And I haven’t been able to find a single one. I’m only looking for a small 6 inch blade. Would you be willing to send me one if I paid shipping ?
I think it was smart to just focus on the cutting edge. No benefit in thinning out the whole steel trying to chase a mirror finish like so many of the other “restoration” guys on here. Totally practical, effective, and satisfying job!
Thanks!
That’s pretty slick
😄😄👍🏻
Nice save Chris! Cherry turns beautifully. Great transition from socket to handle. I struggle with that. Thanks for sharing.
You are most welcome.
Beautiful looking slick for sure!
Thanks!
Nice find and great save.
Thanks!
Nice job Chris.
Thanks!
That Evapo-Rust is good stuff.
Love it!
Great job,find, and great price!!! Glad to see you bring it back to it's original glory.
Thanks!
Nice video Chris! That's a great find and restore! Love seeing old handforged tools restored! That is a pretty massive slick! Great job on the handle as well! Keep up the great work and sharing it with us!
Thanks!
Beautiful! Good job breathing new life into that tool
Thanks!
I love the crafts you manage. All with physical energy, great.
Thanks!
long time no see... good to have you back :)
Thanks!
Nice video Chris.
Nice little "toy" you have there. 🤭
Thanks for showing how you refurbished the thrusting axe.
Never heard it called that before 😄
turned out nice
Thanks!
Only thing I'd do would be to coat the blade in something or put some bluing agent on it to help stave off rust I like the look of it being "rustic" it looks damn good Chris
Thanks!
That's a great find. Outstanding work my friend
Thanks!
Nice work 👍👍
👍🏻💪
Really nice job. long time since I saw HS geometry used
Scary isn’t it!
Good on ya brethren.
Thanks!
Took guts and endurance to cut off the cutting edge and make a new one., especially with a treadle stone.Well done, enjoyed your videos
Thanks!
Great to see you again Chris, it seems ages since your last vid.
Sorry about that!
Awesome!
👍🏻💪
What a fantastic video! What are the benefits of having the chisel so large and heavy?
This is used when making timber structures. It’s used to lop off the end of a beam.
That’s just cool
Thanks!
Muy bien trabajado
Gracias!
annealing is usefull if the steel is hardened "heat tempered" the body of the slick is iron ... only the tip is steel it's forged welded piece thats where the line under the blade come from
👍🏻
Прекрасная работа.
Спасибо!
What do you condition your wood with when it’s for cooking or food? Thanks. Great channel.
Butcher block oil. Thanks for the question.
What happened to chop with Chris? Love his videos.I hope he and his family are well
Sorry for the long absence. My day job works with global supply chains so life has been nuts. I am working on another video to be released in January.
Was this a re-upload? I could have sworn I saw most of this. I assumed that you would round the edge of the slick in this one. I know the edge is the primary concern, and I wonder if automotive body filler was applied to the pits if it might make keeping it clean easier so there’s less pits for sawdust and moisture to gather?
I put out an hour long extended version and people wanted to see a shorter version. I never thought about a filler. Thanks.
Enjoyed this tremendously. More than the individual parts of your efforts, I like your style. I recently acquired a 2 1/4" slick in better condition than yours admittedly, bent though and with a chunk missing out of the handle. Question: what would be a clever (expeditious) way to flatten the back fully without relying on a machine shop? (I am sure sandpaper on melamine would work, but would take forever in my case with the hand forged slick showing quite a few undulations in the finished product). I would like a straight back to help with timberframing in the next 2-3 years. Btw, I physically laughed out loud when you said you didnt want a normal handle, and I found it quite inspiring too. I would like to make something of similar length just for kicks, and make it out of a tree branch with all the natural bends etc for character sakes. Maple or even Alder good in your opinion for this hand driven equipment? Lastly, I am going to take time to watch your other vids. I love your human powered tools showing in this vid, so I'll subscribe.
Thanks for the comment and subscribing! A belt sender would do to flatten the blade provided you didn't let the blade get too hot. I like your idea of using tree branch - that will look great! Good luck and take care. Chris
@@ChopWithChris Thanks Chris, confirms my thoughts. Any experience with Maple or Alder as handles?
Maple is good. Never tried Alder.
@@ChopWithChris then maybe I'll do it anyway. Not much to lose...
I may even try drift wood from the ocean, species unknown. We get a lot of it here in the west coast of Canada
the blade is way more pretty with this beautiful old iron visible structure texture. no need to remove more material. and the tip of blade could have been reforged instaed of cut . this would have saved two generation of use one for the cut and one for the material removed by grinding .
👍🏻
wow
👍🏻💪
paul bunnyon slick
No doubt!!
Hey Chris I noticed I a video you sometimes give away drawknives. I have been looking for years around local flea markets. And I haven’t been able to find a single one. I’m only looking for a small 6 inch blade. Would you be willing to send me one if I paid shipping ?
Email me. chopwithchris@gmail.com
Confirm you got my email address
Will do Chris
Thanks
Danish oil?
Yep. Natural color
2 months man. hope all is well
All good! Thanks!
Didn't you already post this?
I posted the extended (1 hour plus) but people wanted something shorter so I sped everything up an added some answers to people’s questions.
@@ChopWithChris Thank you I was worried I'd had a stroke. Much love!
:).
3 months is too long buddy
I know. I know. Sorry. P
I would have forgotten that curve too.😉Soo much heat and hard hammering needed....
I feel bad I missed that detail but happy with the overall result.
I certainly was worth the restoration.
No doubt!
I remember my dad having that machine and me foot-peddeling all the time...ppffff😚
Cool!