Range Dual-Ring Radiant Surface Element Not Working
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 15 сен 2024
- This video from Sears PartsDirect will show you what to do when a dual-ring radiant surface element-or dual burner- won’t work on your range.Three failures can occur on a dual-ring element-the inner ring, the outer ring or both rings can fail to heat. A bad element, a wiring problem or a broken surface element control switch can cause these failures. In this video, we’ll guide you through the troubleshooting steps to help you figure out which part failed.
Visit us at:
www.searsparts...?sid=soc:youtube:range-dual-ring-radiant-surface-element-not-working
Or call 1-800-437-1673 to speak with a parts specialist.
The video includes these parts and tools. Look up your model to make sure you get the right parts for your range.
Surface element control switch
www.searsparts...
Radiant surface element
www.searsparts...
Find parts for your Range at:
www.searsparts...
Or, click here to schedule an appointment with a repair technician.
www.searshomes...
Thank you Wayne! You're still helping folks 4 years later.
This is the best instructional video I have seen covering just about everything very clearly. Thanks You
Very important information. Thank you. I actually opened the inside of dual Surface element switch easily and found out that my contact P2- 4 was not working consequently the inner element was not heating when knob was on the right side but outer element was heating. The contact was little burnt out. So I bent, a little, the flexible side P2 of the contact with a long-nose plier so that it pushes against the other side 4 when operated. Vola! contact was making again and my switch was okay. I saved Canadian $90 switch price!
That's a really nice repair video! I followed your steps and my heating element needs to be replaced. Thank you!
Awesome video. Comprehensive and easy to understand. I had to search through many many other videos b4 this one. Thanks
Excellent! This is the clearest, most logical, and to-the-point video of this type that I've found. It helped me diagnose the problem with confidence; I knew exactly what I had to do.
Thanks, buddy! I'm Brazilian and your accent helps me to understand my American boss
Great explanation. You were a huge help. Thank you.
Wow hell yeah who is this dude. What a king!
Very helpful, especially the schematic. Thanks!
Best explanation video of this anywhere. We have a whirlpool model WFE540H0ES0. We are having issues with only one of the heating units. It is a dual-ring. When it is turned on high both elements heat. The elements cycle off and on but they don’t seem to heat long enough to really cook certain things. Is there a way to determine if the elements cycling off before they should ? How can you determine if they are cycling incorrectly if it is the element overheat sensor or the switch. Thank you
Make sure that you're using the right size pan or pot for the surface burner. Using a pan or pot that's much smaller than the element can cause the element to cycle off frequently. If that tip doesn't help solve your element heating problem, then you can try swapping the dual-ring burner switches to see if the switch on the element that isn't heating well is okay. The dual-ring burners on the front of the cooktop of your range both use the exact same type of burner switch. Unplug the range and carefully pull it out of the cabinet. Remove the back control console panel and take digital pictures of the wiring connections on the dual-ring burner switches to document their connection locations. Carefully swap out the burner switches. Use your digital pictures as a guide for connecting the wires to the switches. Connecting the switch wires properly is extremely important. Reassemble the range and check the operation of the burner with the suspect burner switch. If that burner doesn't heat properly, replace the burner switch ( www.searspartsdirect.com/product/4x9jjhnile-0022-664/id-w10857622 ). If that elements heat normally, and the same element you've been having problems with continues to have heating problems, replace that element. Be sure that you unplug the range before replacing parts. We hope this information helps. If you need further assistance, let us know.
This is awesome! Thank you very much!
Thanks for the video! I have one more question about the wiring. Which leads should I connect to test the indicator light? The problem I have for the switch is when I turn the switch on, it heats up (inner and outer both work fine) but the indicator light is not on. I'm sure the light itself is good, because it lights on when either of the other three switches are on. Thanks!
The switch contact between P2 and S2 closes to light the "element on" indicator. With the range unplugged, turn the burner switch on and check for continuity from P2 to S2 using your meter. If your meter measures infinite resistance through that contact, replace the burner switch. We hope this additional information helps. If you need further assistance, let us know.
Should you plug the unit back in before checking the switch with the meter?
My dual radiant element has another probe across from the shown probe. It failed and made the element not work. If you have a second probe test it also for continuity.
Does the left and right surface element are the same?
With regard to an inner element not working but the outer does work when the switch is on for the inner element there’s a light that comes on indicating that the inner element is switched on would that be an indication that the switch is actually ok?
Possibly. The "element on" indicator light operates off a different contact so the switch could still have a bad contact for the inner element that is causing the problem.
Great video! So if the inner ring of the element doesn't work, but the outer ring does, is it a good assumption that it is the element itself that is faulty and not the switch?
That failure could be caused by a faulty element, a bad element control switch or a wiring failure. We recommend that you follow the steps in the video to diagnose the cause of the failure before buying parts. If you need more help, let us know.
@@searspartsdirect Great thank you for the quick reply! You explained it very well in the video so I think I should be able to follow your steps and figure it out! I will definitely reach out if I have questions thanks!
Nice !!
Hello. I have a PCS940EJES from GE and I was having problems with the most inner ring of the element not turning on. We first replaced the element only to notice the wiring and the switch were faulty after seeing smoke and a burning smell when turning it on. We later replaced the switch and wire connections. The element was working fine for a few weeks until the inner ring again would sometimes not want to turn on and now it won’t turn on at all. We’ve checked the switch and wires and everything seems normal. We also don’t have a multimeter. What could be the cause of this problem and how can we fix it? Thank you.
Your symptoms indicate that the element or the switch has likely failed. There is a chance that a wiring failure could be causing the problem even though you indicated that the wiring seems normal. Without a multimeter, it's difficult to accurately diagnose the failure that you're describing. You may consider purchasing an inexpensive multimeter. Some meters cost less $20. Here's an example of a low-cost multimeter on Sears.com: www.sears.com/craftsman-multimeter-034821410000/p-A028300107 . If you can get a multimeter, you can unplug the range and check for continuity through the inner element. If the inner element has continuity, check the burner switch contacts for continuity with the burner switch turned on (and the range still unplugged). If the element is okay and the switch is working, check for continuity through the wiring going to the inner element. We hope this information helps. If you need further assistance, let us know.
Bought a new control switch and new still 4a - P2 still reads OL.
It’s the outer element that’s not working for us.
What is the model number of the range in the video?
Good video !!
We have a newer Maytag range, and the one dual burner on it has always had the issue of not adjusting temp (ie, its either high or off). What approach should I take to diagnose this problem?
Because the element heats when you turn on the burner, you know that the element is good. The burner control switch is likely bad. You'll likely be able to fix the problem by unplugging the range and replacing the burner control switch.
What would cause the burners to stay on high when they are reduced to a lower setting
That failure is typically caused by a faulty burner control switch. Here's a video that shows how to replace that part: www.searspartsdirect.com/repair-guide/ranges/how-to-replace-a-surface-element-switch.html We hope this information helps. If you need more assistance, let us know.
Thanks for the video. But I still have questions. In my dual heating element when I dialed switch to activate both elements on they start simultaneously fine but when dial passed 8 inner element shuts off and continue be inactive till dial passes 6 and then inner element come back to life. On the way back the same pictur...between dile 6 and 8 ineer element not working. If I try activate inner element only, turning dile to the left....everything is fine...element working all the way. What might be the problem? Thanks
Because both portions (inner and outer rings) of the element heat when they get current through the burner switch, all components in the circuit are okay except the burner switch. Replacing the burner switch should fix the problem. Unplug the range before accessing and replacing the burner switch. Here's a video that shows how to replace the burner switch: www.searspartsdirect.com/repair-guide/ranges/how-to-replace-a-surface-element-switch.html We hope this information helps. If you need further assistance, let us know.
How does the path of electricity return sorry dumb question my background is DC electrical and I find some of this does make sense to me
We don't consider it a dumb question. The type of circuit that powers the surface element is much different than a DC circuit that you're used to seeing. The surface element is powered by a 240-volt AC circuit which has 2 opposing phases of 120-volt AC power. In this type of circuit, there's no return path for each leg of 120-volt current. The 2 legs of current mesh when they hit each other at the surface element to excite the metal in the element ribbons and produce heat. We hope this helps you understand the 240-volt circuit that powers the surface element. If you have additional questions, don't hesitate to ask.
Hello, What would cause all elements to stop working at the same time? I was using all 4 elements to heat water to thaw a water line when this happened.
The 2 outer elements are dual and the inside ones are single ring
When I turn the switches to the on position the “cooktop on” indicator illuminates.
I am just wondering where to start with diagnosis as I feel that the switches and the elements are in working order since they all failed at the same time.
I have an interesting problem on my Kenmore Elite that I haven't been able to track down (and can no longer replicate). A few days ago, I turned the dual-ring switch to "Hi" on the inner-ring only (or single element) side. However, the entire switch (and associated indicator light) acted as though the burner contained a single element over the last few days. What I mean is, essentially the switch acted like a normal ~330° of control for the single inner burner (as the other true single element switches behave) instead of the typical ~155° given the two modes (single vs double element control). Now today the switch and element are acting as they are supposed to (double element) -- so I can't further troubleshoot the issue. Hopefully that makes sense. I'm wondering if this is indicative of a failing switch?
Your symptoms indicate that the switch is going bad. You'll likely see this problem resume. Replacing the switch should fix the problem. Unplug the range before replacing that switch.
@@searspartsdirect Thanks for the reply...I appreciate it. That's what I was thinking. I'll order a new switch so this doesn't crop up again on Thanksgiving.
@@kd0jzf580 and hear Im reading this on Thanksgiving 2021
So, what if one of my elements on the dual setting is working, and the other isnt? Thanks. Sounds like the element is gone. Ordered a new one.
Because both rings of the element work on the dual setting, the failure is likely caused by a bad burner switch.
@@searspartsdirect ok. My Dual works partially; my outer ring works, but my inner one doesn't and doesnt heat as it used (per my wife), nor does it work at all on the non-dual setting. Is it still the switch? My thought is its the element?
@@4himsanctified That failure could be caused by the burner switch, element or wiring. We recommend that you go through the diagnostic steps described in the video. Unplug the range before accessing internal parts in the range.
Thanks for the video! I have a question - both of my elements/rings work. But when I try to only turn the inner ring, the outer ring turns on. When I turn both rings, they both turn on. Could a faulty switch do that, or could it be the wiring is incorrect? The stove is from previous owner so I am not sure what was done before. Thank you!
Your symptom points to a wiring connection failure. The wire for the inner ring may be connected to the wrong spade on the burner switch or the wires for the inner and outer rings on the radiant surface element may be switched. Let us know the model number of your range and we'll provide some specific information on checking the wiring. Note: Be sure to unplug the range before checking any wiring yourself.
@@searspartsdirect its a fridigaire CFEF766GCG. Thanks for the prompt reply!
@@cancelOG Thanks for providing that model number but we didn't find any information on that model of range. We have data for American and Canadian models but we didn't find any models that begin with CFEF7... If your model isn't American or Canadian, please let us know. We'll try to find technical information for that model. If you miss-keyed the model number, give us an updated model number for your range.
@@searspartsdirect sorry I made a mistake the model number is CFEF366GCG
@@cancelOG Thanks for the updated model number. We did find technical information on that model but that model doesn't appear to have a double element. According to the parts diagram and technical information we have on that model, it has large and small single elements on the cooktop.
lol he looks like Santa
I have a stove like that, two dual ring burners up front and 3 single back burners. The one on the front dual left burner seems to be heating the suface up pretty hot outside of the ring, so hot that it hurts to leave your hand on it 3 inches away from the outside ring while only using the inner ring, is that normal? I was cooking noodles, brought my water to a boil, added noodles, let it come back to a boil, then turned it down half way, I noticed within 5 minutes that it stopped boiling, I had to turn it all the way up to high again just to keep it fizing with a light boil, then I noticed that the glass all the way to the front left corner was pretty hot, is this normal or a problem? (I haven't had this stove but for a few weeks, that's the first time I used that eye, I didn't really notice that with the right side front dual eye.
That's likely normal for the range that you have. The left front dual burner is likely the "quick-boil" element that gets the ceramic glass surrounding the burner hotter because the thermal limiter doesn't shut off the burner as often. You'll likely need to fiddle with burner heat settings for a while before you can find the settings that will evenly boil your noodles. We hope this information helps. If you need more assistance let us know (and let us know the model number of your range so we can see the exact type of surface burners that you have on the range).
@@frankparrino3224 Here’s a link for the replacement part for the left-front burner: www.searspartsdirect.com/product/5q5k18irgs-0022-628/id-316465002
the only issues i have is the warranty of 1yr ran out 8 days ago, and i have spent 5 trying to decide which part. 1 yr people, this is stupid. element works med n high, just clicks off on between low and med setting.
Your symptoms point to a bad surface element switch because the element works when it gets current through the surface element switch on some settings.
need wiring diagram loss picture
The basic wiring diagram between the burner switch and the element is shown at 3:46 in the video. You can pause the video there to examine that diagram. If you have a different type of range or need more help, let us know the model number of your range and additional details about the problem that you're troubleshooting.
@@searspartsdirect Kenmore 30" Radiant counter unit m#911.44022100 I was replacing WB30T1004 service unit Did not so was switching WB24T10063 element control from one to an other to check it . Took picture Went to rewire lost picture on phone went ahead wired best i could remember worked Except for large or out side of WB30T10044
By the way thanks really did not expect to get this chance
@@donaldhutcheson5291 Thanks for providing that model number and the additional details about your problem. We have a basic wiring diagram for that counter unit but the wiring diagram in our technical data doesn't show wire colors. The burner switch WB24T10063 typically comes with special wiring instructions because that part is a revised substitute for the original burner switch installed in that counter unit. Those instructions are complicated and difficult to follow. We may be able to help you fix the problem that you're describing even though we'll likely face some significant obstacles. If we understand your details correctly, you've connected the wires from burner switch WB24T10063 to radiant surface element WB30T10044 but the outside ring of the element doesn't heat. Here's some advice based on that scenario. With the counter unit disconnected from electrical power (power cord unplugged or house circuit breakers for the cooktop shut off), check for continuity through the outer ring of the element using a multimeter. If you don't have a multimeter, you can get a simple multimeter at your local Sears store or hardware store for less than $20. To check continuity through the outer ring of the element, set your meter to measure ohms of resistance and place one meter probe on the outside spade of the 2-spade connection and the other meter probe on the element spade that connects to the thermal limiter box with 4 spades. If you measure infinite resistance through that portion of the element then you'll need to replace the element. If you measure a resistance value between 20 and 60 ohms through that portion of the element then the element is likely okay. If the element is okay then the failure of the outside element could be caused by a wiring problem or a failed burner switch. The spades on the element switch should have labels. Let us know which wire is connected to each spade on the burner switch and let us know which wire is connected to each connection on the radiant element. We'll try to help you find the cause of the element failure.
He sounds like he is from the Ozarks of Missouri.
Wallah
sorry channel