The best way to compare noise levels more accurately is when both tire brands are new. All tires as they wear and get older will become a little more noisy because the rubber is getting less pliable or more stiff due to cold and hot temp exposure. Your Michelins were quieter when new I will wager...Also, if rotations are not done properly, all tires if left going in the same direction for too long will feather or cup causing more road noise. By reversing the direction of rotation, the raised portions of the tread blocks that are cupping or feathering will smooth out flush with the rest of the tread over the next several hundred miles after swapping sides...........................Reversing the direction of rotation every time the tires are rotated (such as a figure 8 pattern) will keep the tires quiet throughout their tread life.......Do not let anyone tell you that swapping sides cannot be done......Only uni-directional tires cannot be rotated from the left side to the right side and visa versa.
When I heard "one of those windy Corpus Christi days" I laughed. I was stationed there(NAS) and lived in Flour Bluff back in the late 80's to early 90's. Yes, it was windy...and humid!
Yes for sure. My son-in-law's distillery (Aerodrome Distilling) is where my office is right outside NAS and the wind sometimes is loud inside the metal building.
I just put Cooper HTP 2’s on my Suburban. I’ve had Michelins on my Lexus and love them to death. That being said, I’m tired of paying $1300 for tires out here in Colorado. Discount Tire did a price match and out the door with tax for $740!! They come with 65k warranty and trust me, if you rotate I plan on getting every mile. Do I personally care about 1-2dB noise level difference for $600 more.. NO but again to everyone their own and happy safe travels! ✌️
I just replaced these after 60,000 miles on them with Kumo Crugen tires we bought 4 for just over $500 and really pleased with quite and we even feel a smoother ride!
Out of the midrange tires, I've had the best of luck with the General brand tires. They are nearly as good as the premium brands. Hancooks are quieter, but the steering feel isn't as good.
went from michelin to cooper because of price on my 18 f150, the coopers cause a small shake the michelins didnt, i had my tires balanced, suspension checked , alignment all at dealership and its just the cooper tires arent as good as the michelin, they are loud and bumpy
Sorry to hear your experience. We now replaced our Cooper's with Kumho tires - on sale so went with them. The Coopers lasted 65k miles without an issue but were getting worn and noisy. Just like other comments stated, old tires ARE a lot more noisy than when they are new, so a comparison really needs to be on like vehicles with tires that have similar amount of miles/wear on them.
Tried a set of Cooper AT-3s. Maybe 5000 miles on them. Got so loud u couldn't listen to the radio or have a conversation at the same time without hollering. Tried michelin defender LTX M&S. Much better ride and so quiet.
I think people get too religious about their tires, although there are differences between different tires, most of the time people are subjective on what they think they hear or feel. A placebo really.
Useless video. You need to compare new vs new. Comparing an old tire vs a new is unfair, and if you get the same noise reading, then you'll be very dissapointed rather quickly
For a year between tech jobs in 2000, I worked @ a Goodyear affiliate whom also sold Cooper Tires. At that time, the Discover was the eq. of touring & the Cobra was their eq. of the Eagle GT. I had a set of the Discovers on a Trailblazer, and two sets of Cobtas. One on a Fox Body and the other on a charged Neon. For comparison I had a set of Goodywar Eagle RSA on a Cutlass Supreme. (So yeah. a Disclaimer.. The RSA's? They were free. if you don't kow, traditionally law enforcement has used RSAs on all patrol cars in NC, and the majority of states are.. WERE the same until the General Justice Gmax Came out. That being said, our local PD and Sheriff's department would dispose of their RSAs at the city dump once they got anywhere below 6/32. Thats 3/4 usable life left on the tire. Granted the RSA below that, the wet road performance is mediocre at best. The Cobras from Cooper were similar. Dry traction great when new, but they were so soft they feathered easily and within 1k to 2k miles, wet road traction was horrendous. The Discovers were nice, quiet for a while and until around 6/32 had good to avg. wet road performance. But around half tread life, same thing.. Now out of honestly, when I speak about wet performance, I drive hard and even aggressive at times and if a mfg. tells me it has exceptional handling, I expect exceptional handling. Anyway long story short.. As a company in regards to ethics and how they operate, Cooper is incredible. I just never found the wet performance I so badly wanted their tires to have at the time. My SUVs when I started making real money again, I went back to Michelin LTX on the SUV, ( Last LONG time, great wet road, but of I don't keep dressing on them they dry-crack around 1.5 yrs. at the bead. The kids drive the heck outta their cars and to and from school I have Bridgestone Touring TA grand Touring0 on one and General Altimax 43 which Ive really taken a liking to and are very affordable on the other. This is after they went through a set of defenders each, both in less than 20k miles.. Something I thought was impossible. Aggressive enough that the warranty was refused and I couldn't complain. I rotate SUVs with every oil change which is between 2900 miles and 3100 miles.Unless you have a 4-wheel ind. suspension (true ind. suspension, ie Cadillac crossover) and especially if its a Jeep of Dodge brand, as long as tires aren't chewing on toe and their wear is even, the pressure set my the pressure on the door jam sticker ( add 3 psi when tires are warm to that..) the best thing you can do is rear straight to front, front cross L/R to back every 3k to 5k miles. (BTW, the majority of cars and most all SUVs? the rear wheels cant truly be aligned.. Oh and no you don't always have to have cam-bolts. Typically if you HAVE indeed rotated your tires, you'll notice significant feathering or wire showing if its WAY out of alignment. Even then, aligning your front end at home, while it may seem daunting.. Its honestly easier than you think.. Lots of YT videos that show how to do it.. The bare minimum, an extra hand and a yard stick and about 10 minutes a side can align it close.. But today or these days? You can get a steering wheel holder and a portable alignment kit for less than $350. Even when my friends Dad taught me, I was 15 yrs old I believe that's correct, I had to learn using what's called a "toe rod" or some call it a "toe stick", which is a metal bar which extends, locking the tire and aligns toe within 1/16th of an inch, which is beyond good enough. Camber which cannot be done on all SUVs was done by eye with a Yard Stick, but now you can get a cheapo camber/caster gauge. and I believe the old fashioned toe stick has been replaced by a "toe in toe out" tool. But if you have wire showing badly because you replaced struts or tie rod or ball joint, etc.. You can eyeball it, push toe opposite a nudge and with wheels straight on a well lit driveway lay down at 20' looking at vehicle and you can tel when you are close to being in align.. But yes, You CAN do your own alignment, and if your tires do not appear to visually be crooked and you don't have clear wear signs indicating such? You may not need an alignment... SO many things with mechanics and cars have been blown out of proportion as they years have gone by.. Also about to give you the best auto advice you've never heard.. Just remember American Cylinder Heads in Oakland , CA on Lesser St.. (Im in NC, no affiliation w/ them..) are at AmericanCylinderHeads dotcom - In 2 years Ive bought 3 heads (all complete w/ balanced cams) all w/ a 3 year, unlimited mile warranty, all 3 are better than what came in the car hands down. This will be important in a minute because it impacts YOU.. yes, YOU! .The world needs morons such as myelf who has nothing better to do than to hop up on a pedestal and hollar the truth every once in a while so you can be reminded that YOU, YES YOU.. have the capability and the ability to do almost everything that can be done at a shop. Example (another one.. I know.. Im wrapping it up..) Timing belt on a 4 cyl.. or even a head gasket... SO easy. Now may need 1 to 2 days of another vehicle the first time and most people I now that tried it for a first time as an adults were scared or nervous ... But TYDC/Top Dead Center .. Each car or engine has a trick that’s normally very easy to get it at TDC.. You use a white paint pen to mark everything coming off, keep belts in order.. YOU HAVE TO USE THE CORRECT TOOLS TO LOCK YOUR CAM/CAMS and lock TDC in.. But once you are there, as long as TDC doesn’t move and you don’t accidentally remove the balancer or flywheel and knock it out or push down a piston? Its as easy as changing a serpentine belt and water pump after that.. Don’t have t worry about setting timing or anything like that, which is one of those things that prevents so many people from trying and doing timing belts or head gaskets or both on man y cars.. (Just remember, every time you remove a cylinder head? ALWAYS use a brand new set of head bolts, re-0install and tighten in order and to torque in order as specified my the manufacturer.. Also if you remove a gasket, replace it,.. If y water pump is internal? Replace it with the timing belt... Replace all timing belt components, not just the belt.. You NEED new guides and tension er when installed. And as for the head gasket? Before even getting a gasket out of its pack which you keep flat BTW.. You need a machinists flat edge or a metal true straight edge and some cheap metal feeler gauges (harbor for like #3) You MUST make certain that if overheated or even if old, that the head if aluminum hasn’t warped from the heat at all. Each head has specific ranges or a tolerance, but you have to be certain you’re within that range. Agan easy easy to do, tons of videos. On an important note, Cylinder Heads... Seems like besides knowing someone who can machine it, that its hard to know where one can get a reman or rebuilt cylinder head.. A quality head with a solid warranty the company is known for a fact to back.. It took me 10+ hours a day for weeks to research a few years ago because NOBODY knew.. Well know, and I have purchased three heads now and you could not pay me enough to get and use a head from ANYWHERE else.. So, the head experts name to remember is...American Cylinder Heads .. It was almost impossible and seriously took SO much time for me to find out where or from whom to get a reman head form or to have rebuild a head for me... These are the ONLY people I trust to do it and yep.. Had to be durn 4000 miles away.. Still.. worth it ! American Cylinder Heads, on Lesser ST, in Oakland, CA. (and online at AmericanCylinderHeads dotcom - They rebuild them with and without cams, warranty for 3 years unlimited mileage, all they do is cylinder heads, they build custom heads, race heads.. They know more about heads than I thought one could know... AND if uncomfortable or if you can take advantage of a coupon you can purchase one through Autozone or AdvanceAuto.. Theyll try and sell a Spartan or similar (stay away, far away) but tell them you want it from American Cylinder Heads. And if they don't have yours ready to ship, they probably have your core type on the shelf ready to be build ad can turn around in days.. or you can send a core to them if you have time and they ll build to OEM or to your specs. And Yes, they know what they are talking about, in an engineering and technical level like Ive never seen.. They are truly are THE experts. I have NO, ZERO partnership with them, Ive never made or asked for a dime from them.. I Yeah a long way from NC.. THE HEAD GASKET, .. long way from tires.. but still close enough.. right? Head gasket, goes on your new head from American.. LoL .. But seriously.. NEVER go cheap, never get a no-name brand I ONLY use dealer supplied or made for mfg head gaskets or the brand used by the mfg i.e. and ALWAYS, replace your head bolts…
Each car will have different sound material. I drive a older senna lol I can't hear engine running o constantly restart when running lol ime adding a take. Lol
![Gunna - HIM ALL ALONG [Official Visualizer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HiCxoDeo0hc/mqdefault.jpg)
Probably best not to talk while trying to take a sound level reading.
LOL
he likes to talk bacause he is the star of the show not the tire
😆😆😆
also he even did not notice the actual PSI on 3 readouts....38-39 .......clearly at least 4-5 PSI overinflated.....@@midas617
I got Cooper tires on my Suburban instead of Michelin this time around. Very happy with the Coopers and saved about $300.
I’m about to do this. How have the Coopers held up?
@@Freemarkets1236 excellent tires. I don't put very many miles on them due to COVID and it being my 4th vehicle!
@@gosman949 cooper tires are crap
Got Michelin’s defender on my Corolla 2015, 65dB with wind at 70miles. Amazing tires
The best way to compare noise levels more accurately is when both tire brands are new. All tires as they wear and get older will become a little more noisy because the rubber is getting less pliable or more stiff due to cold and hot temp exposure. Your Michelins were quieter when new I will wager...Also, if rotations are not done properly, all tires if left going in the same direction for too long will feather or cup causing more road noise. By reversing the direction of rotation, the raised portions of the tread blocks that are cupping or feathering will smooth out flush with the rest of the tread over the next several hundred miles after swapping sides...........................Reversing the direction of rotation every time the tires are rotated (such as a figure 8 pattern) will keep the tires quiet throughout their tread life.......Do not let anyone tell you that swapping sides cannot be done......Only uni-directional tires cannot be rotated from the left side to the right side and visa versa.
When I heard "one of those windy Corpus Christi days" I laughed. I was stationed there(NAS) and lived in Flour Bluff back in the late 80's to early 90's. Yes, it was windy...and humid!
Yes for sure. My son-in-law's distillery (Aerodrome Distilling) is where my office is right outside NAS and the wind sometimes is loud inside the metal building.
So basically new Cooper tires are just as loud as 60,000 mile Michelin tires?
which is sad considering those michelins are old, worn down and hard as a rock from years of heat.
Please do not post anything more. Please
😂😂😂🤭
Man I just was peeping the cs5 reviews and I find a video of a fellow corpus christi neighbor small world! Nice video thank you.
Lmao talking the entire time which makes this video completely useless 😂
I just put Cooper HTP 2’s on my Suburban. I’ve had Michelins on my Lexus and love them to death. That being said, I’m tired of paying $1300 for tires out here in Colorado. Discount Tire did a price match and out the door with tax for $740!! They come with 65k warranty and trust me, if you rotate I plan on getting every mile. Do I personally care about 1-2dB noise level difference for $600 more.. NO but again to everyone their own and happy safe travels! ✌️
I just replaced these after 60,000 miles on them with Kumo Crugen tires we bought 4 for just over $500 and really pleased with quite and we even feel a smoother ride!
Out of the midrange tires, I've had the best of luck with the General brand tires. They are nearly as good as the premium brands. Hancooks are quieter, but the steering feel isn't as good.
I do like General brand, but I buy what's available for this minivan, since it is just a minivan :)
Hello, It appears your TPMS light is ON at the BEGINNING of your video 1:40 driving to the tire store
Right dudes trippin
Loud American shouting whilst commenting on the decibels lmao
🤫
🤏
went from michelin to cooper because of price on my 18 f150, the coopers cause a small shake the michelins didnt, i had my tires balanced, suspension checked , alignment all at dealership and its just the cooper tires arent as good as the michelin, they are loud and bumpy
Sorry to hear your experience. We now replaced our Cooper's with Kumho tires - on sale so went with them. The Coopers lasted 65k miles without an issue but were getting worn and noisy. Just like other comments stated, old tires ARE a lot more noisy than when they are new, so a comparison really needs to be on like vehicles with tires that have similar amount of miles/wear on them.
Tried a set of Cooper AT-3s. Maybe 5000 miles on them. Got so loud u couldn't listen to the radio or have a conversation at the same time without hollering. Tried michelin defender LTX M&S. Much better ride and so quiet.
Must be a different style our van now has 100k on it with the Cooper Tires and still more quite than the originals.
I think people get too religious about their tires, although there are differences between different tires, most of the time people are subjective on what they think they hear or feel. A placebo really.
Useless video. You need to compare new vs new. Comparing an old tire vs a new is unfair, and if you get the same noise reading, then you'll be very dissapointed rather quickly
so which part of the video is the tire noise coz all i hear is a guy that won't stop talking
Babble, babble....why can't people get to the point on their videos.?
For a year between tech jobs in 2000, I worked @ a Goodyear affiliate whom also sold Cooper Tires. At that time, the Discover was the eq. of touring & the Cobra was their eq. of the Eagle GT. I had a set of the Discovers on a Trailblazer, and two sets of Cobtas. One on a Fox Body and the other on a charged Neon. For comparison I had a set of Goodywar Eagle RSA on a Cutlass Supreme. (So yeah. a Disclaimer.. The RSA's? They were free. if you don't kow, traditionally law enforcement has used RSAs on all patrol cars in NC, and the majority of states are.. WERE the same until the General Justice Gmax Came out. That being said, our local PD and Sheriff's department would dispose of their RSAs at the city dump once they got anywhere below 6/32. Thats 3/4 usable life left on the tire. Granted the RSA below that, the wet road performance is mediocre at best. The Cobras from Cooper were similar. Dry traction great when new, but they were so soft they feathered easily and within 1k to 2k miles, wet road traction was horrendous. The Discovers were nice, quiet for a while and until around 6/32 had good to avg. wet road performance. But around half tread life, same thing.. Now out of honestly, when I speak about wet performance, I drive hard and even aggressive at times and if a mfg. tells me it has exceptional handling, I expect exceptional handling. Anyway long story short.. As a company in regards to ethics and how they operate, Cooper is incredible. I just never found the wet performance I so badly wanted their tires to have at the time. My SUVs when I started making real money again, I went back to Michelin LTX on the SUV, ( Last LONG time, great wet road, but of I don't keep dressing on them they dry-crack around 1.5 yrs. at the bead. The kids drive the heck outta their cars and to and from school I have Bridgestone Touring TA grand Touring0 on one and General Altimax 43 which Ive really taken a liking to and are very affordable on the other. This is after they went through a set of defenders each, both in less than 20k miles.. Something I thought was impossible. Aggressive enough that the warranty was refused and I couldn't complain. I rotate SUVs with every oil change which is between 2900 miles and 3100 miles.Unless you have a 4-wheel ind. suspension (true ind. suspension, ie Cadillac crossover) and especially if its a Jeep of Dodge brand, as long as tires aren't chewing on toe and their wear is even, the pressure set my the pressure on the door jam sticker ( add 3 psi when tires are warm to that..) the best thing you can do is rear straight to front, front cross L/R to back every 3k to 5k miles. (BTW, the majority of cars and most all SUVs? the rear wheels cant truly be aligned.. Oh and no you don't always have to have cam-bolts. Typically if you HAVE indeed rotated your tires, you'll notice significant feathering or wire showing if its WAY out of alignment. Even then, aligning your front end at home, while it may seem daunting.. Its honestly easier than you think..
Lots of YT videos that show how to do it.. The bare minimum, an extra hand and a yard stick and about 10 minutes a side can align it close.. But today or these days? You can get a steering wheel holder and a portable alignment kit for less than $350. Even when my friends Dad taught me, I was 15 yrs old I believe that's correct, I had to learn using what's called a "toe rod" or some call it a "toe stick", which is a metal bar which extends, locking the tire and aligns toe within 1/16th of an inch, which is beyond good enough. Camber which cannot be done on all SUVs was done by eye with a Yard Stick, but now you can get a cheapo camber/caster gauge. and I believe the old fashioned toe stick has been replaced by a "toe in toe out" tool. But if you have wire showing badly because you replaced struts or tie rod or ball joint, etc.. You can eyeball it, push toe opposite a nudge and with wheels straight on a well lit driveway lay down at 20' looking at vehicle and you can tel when you are close to being in align.. But yes, You CAN do your own alignment, and if your tires do not appear to visually be crooked and you don't have clear wear signs indicating such? You may not need an alignment... SO many things with mechanics and cars have been blown out of proportion as they years have gone by..
Also about to give you the best auto advice you've never heard.. Just remember American Cylinder Heads in Oakland , CA on Lesser St.. (Im in NC, no affiliation w/ them..) are at AmericanCylinderHeads dotcom - In 2 years Ive bought 3 heads (all complete w/ balanced cams) all w/ a 3 year, unlimited mile warranty, all 3 are better than what came in the car hands down. This will be important in a minute because it impacts YOU.. yes, YOU!
.The world needs morons such as myelf who has nothing better to do than to hop up on a pedestal and hollar the truth every once in a while so you can be reminded that
YOU, YES YOU.. have the capability and the ability to do almost everything that can be done at a shop.
Example (another one.. I know.. Im wrapping it up..) Timing belt on a 4 cyl.. or even a head gasket... SO easy. Now may need 1 to 2 days of another vehicle the first time and most people I now that tried it for a first time as an adults were scared or nervous ... But TYDC/Top Dead Center .. Each car or engine has a trick that’s normally very easy to get it at TDC.. You use a white paint pen to mark everything coming off, keep belts in order.. YOU HAVE TO USE THE CORRECT TOOLS TO LOCK YOUR CAM/CAMS and lock TDC in.. But once you are there, as long as TDC doesn’t move and you don’t accidentally remove the balancer or flywheel and knock it out or push down a piston? Its as easy as changing a serpentine belt and water pump after that.. Don’t have t worry about setting timing or anything like that, which is one of those things that prevents so many people from trying and doing timing belts or head gaskets or both on man y cars.. (Just remember, every time you remove a cylinder head? ALWAYS use a brand new set of head bolts, re-0install and tighten in order and to torque in order as specified my the manufacturer.. Also if you remove a gasket, replace it,.. If y water pump is internal? Replace it with the timing belt...
Replace all timing belt components, not just the belt.. You NEED new guides and tension er when installed. And as for the head gasket? Before even getting a gasket out of its pack which you keep flat BTW.. You need a machinists flat edge or a metal true straight edge and some cheap metal feeler gauges (harbor for like #3) You MUST make certain that if overheated or even if old, that the head if aluminum hasn’t warped from the heat at all. Each head has specific ranges or a tolerance, but you have to be certain you’re within that range. Agan easy easy to do, tons of videos.
On an important note, Cylinder Heads... Seems like besides knowing someone who can machine it, that its hard to know where one can get a reman or rebuilt cylinder head.. A quality head with a solid warranty the company is known for a fact to back.. It took me 10+ hours a day for weeks to research a few years ago because NOBODY knew.. Well know, and I have purchased three heads now and you could not pay me enough to get and use a head from ANYWHERE else..
So, the head experts name to remember is...American Cylinder Heads .. It was almost impossible and seriously took SO much time for me to find out where or from whom to get a reman head form or to have rebuild a head for me... These are the ONLY people I trust to do it and yep.. Had to be durn 4000 miles away.. Still.. worth it !
American Cylinder Heads, on Lesser ST, in Oakland, CA. (and online at AmericanCylinderHeads dotcom - They rebuild them with and without cams, warranty for 3 years unlimited mileage, all they do is cylinder heads, they build custom heads, race heads.. They know more about heads than I thought one could know... AND if uncomfortable or if you can take advantage of a coupon you can purchase one through Autozone or AdvanceAuto.. Theyll try and sell a Spartan or similar (stay away, far away) but tell them you want it from American Cylinder Heads.
And if they don't have yours ready to ship, they probably have your core type on the shelf ready to be build ad can turn around in days.. or you can send a core to them if you have time and they ll build to OEM or to your specs. And Yes, they know what they are talking about, in an engineering and technical level like Ive never seen.. They are truly are THE experts.
I have NO, ZERO partnership with them, Ive never made or asked for a dime from them.. I
Yeah a long way from NC..
THE HEAD GASKET, .. long way from tires.. but still close enough.. right?
Head gasket, goes on your new head from American.. LoL ..
But seriously.. NEVER go cheap, never get a no-name brand I ONLY use dealer supplied or made for mfg head gaskets or the brand used by the mfg i.e. and ALWAYS, replace your head bolts…
Bro really typed a harry potter book
And I thought I was long winded lol! You my friend win the award hands down
"Anyway long story short..."
@@areyouserial 😆
99% of people are not going to read it
Talking the whole time. You should delete this video.
Thanks for watching.
Useless test, you are much noisy than your tires. Please keep quiet when you db test voice adds on noise.
Does no good to test noise levels if you're talking... just saying.
Thanks, some of the non-talking measurements were not recorded or not on the video.
38-39 PSI on freshly installed tires???
If you are asking the PSI on new, they were 36 - that's the spec. but when they heat up they typically read 38-39psi.
Where did you buy them and how are they holding up?
Walmart, and they are still working well! My wife Wanda still comments on how much quieter they are on certain roads.
I just got the cooper from amazon i paid 85 for
245/75/16
Each car will have different sound material. I drive a older senna lol I can't hear engine running o constantly restart when running lol ime adding a take. Lol
Interesting!
Just bough michelin ps5 noise is horrible under 130kmh
Yep, mine were too.
@@RnWSolutions my bad noise was from a wheel bearing but they are not that quiet