Dude, this was such a huge help. I did a repair of the small separation that I caught early, but who knows how long that will last, so I ordered one of these just in case. I'm not super techy with this type of thing, so your knowledge and background research on matching this up (showing the impendence and explaining how to properly wire it up) was just what I needed. Fantastic job. Thank you so much ! ! !
so the surround total diameter is 6.5" and the basket area is 7"? I just want to confirm before buying a replacement sub just in case I blow up mine too
@@handsomelad_4390my audiopipe 6.5 also has a total diameter of 6.5 but with the basket area is 7 inch. I think there’s a good amount of 6.5s like that
@jaelinjackson1919 If they need to be replaced with larger ones, they are 5 cents. If that was the case and I didn't mention it, it's probably that I thought it was so insignificant of an issue that I did it without even thinking about it. I don't remember having to change them but maybe?
my stock logi sub just blew out yesterday. i'm about to get this BEAST this upcoming weekend and see how it goes! thank u for making this video otherwise i would've thrown out what's left of the system lolz
The con is all these speakers are using foam surround, foam surround which is made for better sensitivity but not for lasting. I mean could be better have in rubber surround, if it broken any time I'll just replace it to new subwoofer.
@@jorgerodriguez4017 dual 4 ohm sub. has two voice coils. each coil has its own + and - terminal on sub basket. if you check the resistance of each with a wire tester, its 4ish ohms. if you hook the positive from one, to the negative of the other (wiring the two coils in series) you are left with a single + remaining on 1 coil, and a single - on the other. test those and it’s now 8ish ohms (double the electrical resistance because the signal has to pass through 2 seperate coils in a row instead of 1). ………. Now hook the speaker wires from the amp inside the speaker box to those 2 terminals. The + wire to the + on the 1 coil, and the - to the - on the other… the two other - and + are still hooked to each other with a single wire (NOT TO THE AMP). Now you have the new sub hooked up at 8 ohms to the amp. test to make sure it plays, then mount in box. ……….If you wire the resistance too low (4ohms, 2ohms etc) the amp could overheat, keep going into protect, shut down, or even straight up fry… ie, smoke comes out of the box, and now its useless…… if you wire a replacement sub to the same ohms as the original that blew, you should be able to use it normally for years to come. Hope that clarified it some.
what kind of devil possessed you to buy stuff from l*gitech anyway if you see ~6.whatever resistance, it's a nominally 8 Ω speaker but that doesn't tell you much about it. Since it is broken, you can't get useable impedance curves from it so you can't figure out its T/S parameters _so_ you're stuck with it. If it works with the skar and it sounds ok, you're lucky.
@@jorgerodriguez4017 An electric circuit behaves differently when provided a constant voltage - which you never do to a speaker driver - and differently when you provide it a sinusoidal of some frequency. The speaker driver has some resistance when given constant voltage. It has a varying impedance (we call it "impedance" instead of "resistance" when we're talking about voltages that change over time) that depends on the frequency of the voltage you are applying to it. _How_ this impedance changes over the audible frequency range is a kinda-sorta important characteristic of a speaker driver. It can guide you to design a better enclosure for the driver. It's not the end-all, be-all, but it helps quite a bit. To get this "impedance curve" you need a _functioning_ speaker driver and a couple laboratory tools (a signal analyzer or oscilloscope and something to generate tones, even if it is just your computer's soundcard or sth)
Dude, this was such a huge help. I did a repair of the small separation that I caught early, but who knows how long that will last, so I ordered one of these just in case. I'm not super techy with this type of thing, so your knowledge and background research on matching this up (showing the impendence and explaining how to properly wire it up) was just what I needed. Fantastic job. Thank you so much ! ! !
how did he wire it up i still need help on that part
so the surround total diameter is 6.5" and the basket area is 7"? I just want to confirm before buying a replacement sub just in case I blow up mine too
Sorry, I just saw this. The size to the outside of the foam surround is 6", and the total edge to edge of the basket is 7.25" (on the logi sub).
yeah logitech was weird and decided to make a 7” sub instead of a 6.5” or 8” sub
@@handsomelad_4390my audiopipe 6.5 also has a total diameter of 6.5 but with the basket area is 7 inch. I think there’s a good amount of 6.5s like that
@@Blamkrotchthe connectors coming from the amp are to small
@jaelinjackson1919 If they need to be replaced with larger ones, they are 5 cents. If that was the case and I didn't mention it, it's probably that I thought it was so insignificant of an issue that I did it without even thinking about it. I don't remember having to change them but maybe?
wow im probably gonna do this with mine because my sub bottoms out at max bass because its a older model
Hello doodle
@@speakertester65 hi James
Hi James and doodle
@@toasted_bagel59 hi bagel
Mine can’t 😭
Holy crap!! Why is that speaker trying to jump out of that box? I don't think it likes it in there.😮
These subs are meant to move big on low frequencys
@@Zada02 high excursion subwoofer
@@sonicpowerr4068 yeah
my stock logi sub just blew out yesterday.
i'm about to get this BEAST this upcoming weekend and see how it goes!
thank u for making this video otherwise i would've thrown out what's left of the system lolz
Do you think it would move well a 12" sub? with a new bafle of course... I'm thinking I could do something crazy.
I’m thinking about doing this do you know what size the spade connector are on the evl and the wire coming from the amp
The con is all these speakers are using foam surround, foam surround which is made for better sensitivity but not for lasting. I mean could be better have in rubber surround, if it broken any time I'll just replace it to new subwoofer.
You should do a video on how to wire a car subwoofer into a computer sub box
do you by any chance know the size and specs of the sattelite speakers ? if so can you share it please.
I want to know what a good replacement part for the left sound logitech z625
How did you count that double coil?
Would u say this works better than the stock amp
The end of the wire dosen't fit, its too small. How did you do it?
THATS WHAT IM SAYING
do i need something to make work the sub or just put the wire from the stock into the skar one?
Just wire positive wire to positive speaker terminal etc. Make sure impedance is correct.
@@Blamkrotch ok thank you
wait so what does that mean tho i still need help with the wiring part
how did you wire it?
@@jorgerodriguez4017 dual 4 ohm sub. has two voice coils. each coil has its own + and - terminal on sub basket. if you check the resistance of each with a wire tester, its 4ish ohms. if you hook the positive from one, to the negative of the other (wiring the two coils in series) you are left with a single + remaining on 1 coil, and a single - on the other. test those and it’s now 8ish ohms (double the electrical resistance because the signal has to pass through 2 seperate coils in a row instead of 1). ………. Now hook the speaker wires from the amp inside the speaker box to those 2 terminals. The + wire to the + on the 1 coil, and the - to the - on the other… the two other - and + are still hooked to each other with a single wire (NOT TO THE AMP). Now you have the new sub hooked up at 8 ohms to the amp. test to make sure it plays, then mount in box.
……….If you wire the resistance too low (4ohms, 2ohms etc) the amp could overheat, keep going into protect, shut down, or even straight up fry… ie, smoke comes out of the box, and now its useless…… if you wire a replacement sub to the same ohms as the original that blew, you should be able to use it normally for years to come. Hope that clarified it some.
What about scar,s bass
I did this an the Skar kept cutting out. Why is this happening
thats what i want to know
Can j just put a 7in sub instead
i can give u a older replacement unit i have
the 7inch but with the old logo
what kind of devil possessed you to buy stuff from l*gitech anyway
if you see ~6.whatever resistance, it's a nominally 8 Ω speaker but that doesn't tell you much about it. Since it is broken, you can't get useable impedance curves from it so you can't figure out its T/S parameters _so_ you're stuck with it. If it works with the skar and it sounds ok, you're lucky.
what does this mean? can you translate for non speaker building people?
@@jorgerodriguez4017 An electric circuit behaves differently when provided a constant voltage - which you never do to a speaker driver - and differently when you provide it a sinusoidal of some frequency. The speaker driver has some resistance when given constant voltage. It has a varying impedance (we call it "impedance" instead of "resistance" when we're talking about voltages that change over time) that depends on the frequency of the voltage you are applying to it. _How_ this impedance changes over the audible frequency range is a kinda-sorta important characteristic of a speaker driver. It can guide you to design a better enclosure for the driver. It's not the end-all, be-all, but it helps quite a bit. To get this "impedance curve" you need a _functioning_ speaker driver and a couple laboratory tools (a signal analyzer or oscilloscope and something to generate tones, even if it is just your computer's soundcard or sth)
Wire in cereal😂
My bad😂 I've been installing car stereos for decades, I just had a brain fart.
Tysm
wasnt really helpful, and youre yapping waaaay too much.