If you take the small clear dust cover off the cap on top of the distributor. Its a fine tuning knob for timing. No need to loosen bolt and rotate distributor.
@@rwallaceiv well you might be right! I have a california spec 77 20R it does not have points. Its electronic ignition. But it has the knob. When i set timing like your video I can fine tune it by rotating the knob. But maybe Im messing something else up :)
Did you guys ever fiquer that out? I have the same on my 77 20 R i got to use a dwell meter to set the point dwell/ Gap. being close to 50 years old you can't use a feeler gage. @trevart9200
What would you do? 👋 1977 toyota 20R Chinook. 1. Had carb rebuilt 2. It still coughed after 3-4 store stops turning off. 3. After returning shopping it did not fire up start right away, eventually it would. Almost like flooded. Reliable. 4. I did have a water pump leak & thermostat housing leak. 5. Put new thermostat in new gasket no leak. 6. In the mean time I found after cleaning hood inside a hose map & connected according to it cuz some hoses just left loose. 7. After a howling continuous sound would not go away. 8. A friend said I had an exhaust leak because of sound but I didn't before I decided to follow hose map. Wanna disconnect hoses except one that goes to distributor. 9. Water pump leak got bad but temp never got to hot. Always coolant 👌 10. Found the temp sensor wire off one day no reading. 11. Cleaned it up stayed normal 12. Got hot days start up fast did not have to warm up, no choke came on,, take off great. 5 miles stopped store a chugga lug started. 6. Would not start seemed hot or flooded waited to long time, had groceries took bus later evening cooled down started normal drive OK until just b4 home started heavy chugga a lug barely got home really hot no reading on gauge. Put new plugs, wires, thermostat gasket water pump gasket......started OK but HOT FAST. Got new water pump gonna put on. Gonna try to start it almost started without all that after carb adjustment but obviously got to hot would not run and die. Next am putting pre gapped points in. So fail safe thermostat gasket new. Water pump new. Plugs, wires, will put pre gapped points, new coolant, flushed radiator everything inside engine clean. Floater level window shows gas at lie a little above. Big day soon will find out try to start it. 💋😘
@@rwallaceiv do you charge, senior low income, that is why I am doing this myself. Looked again at timing video. I was thinking of looking for that line. Listening to engine, turning slightly left or right, no hand held device available. The truck ran better longer after it cooled down. Burped. Radiator had some coolant so thermastat fail safe working. Thought maybe try new cap, although new it would not come off once, pried it open, never got hot though...... The engine ran to 1/4 gage temp...... Started getting sluggish, stepped on peddle engine started shaken struggled. Eventually just died. Suggestions? Sprayed carb cleaner too b4 starting, want to while running reving it if I can maybe unclog? FRUSTRATED........ran great b4. 💋😘
@@lindaleehulsey3167 I wonder if you are having vapor lock? Or the fuel is getting too hot in the line and is bubbling past the carb float and flooding the engine, and then after you let it sit. The gas evaporates and then it will let you run the engine again until it gets too hot, and then the cycle repeats. An easy way to test is to run a clear fuel hose going into the carb and look for bubbles in the fuel, and to change to non ethanol fuel. Which doesn't boil as quick.
Hi I have a 1977 toyota pickup. I've had this issue for a while where i push the gas all the way and still have low acceleration. What are the chances that my timing is off? Or if you have any suggestions id appreciate it. Thanks
On a 77 20R the dwell is set between 52 to 54° degrees, take your dwell meter, and varifly where that degree setting is at...as you look at it FACE ON.(lot of scales are condense so small that when you read the scale while your adj the points it give you a false reading) it may take several attempts to get it right,so what I do is set the point gap as the engine is being turned over by a helper. Dis connect yor vacuumed advance hose I then set the dwell to 55° so when I tighten the point screws down it ends up at 52° Mark your Harmonical balancers with white fingernail polish on the notch. Take your timing light, aim directly down ward ,if your timeing does not match up with the marks,take a 14 mm boxed wrench ,loosed the distributor hold down clamp and slightly turned the distributor CCW until the timing marks align. Your timing is set.Reconnect your vacuumed advance line,proceed to your carburetor and idj RPM for curb side idle.... Reconnect any vacuumed lines Take your can of carb cleaner,spray short burst around the vacuumed lines and at the base of your carburetor. If the engine raises in RPM you have a vaccum leak.replace that vacuumed line. If it reves up at the carb tighten/ Snub the base bolts down ..check again. You probable gain a 30% increase in horse power,and gas milage, if done right.
I have a 1976 Toyota Chinook and am located in CA too. Do you have the stock carburetor or is that after market carb? If it is after market carb, is it smog legal and what type of carb is it? Thank you.
@@rwallaceiv Hey Ray, my stock carb seems to be ok, but my truck stalls out once engine warms up and I am idling. I think I need to adjust my points in my distributor. Any tips?
@@mattc.5047 replace all that stuff, its cheap and easy, replace the cap, the rotor, those take 2 seconds, the points will need to be set, i dont have the info for that at moment. be sure to set your timing before you do any of that. if your timing is off, all these other symptoms could occur and throw you off. plus get rid of that stock carb and get a weber.
If you take the small clear dust cover off the cap on top of the distributor. Its a fine tuning knob for timing. No need to loosen bolt and rotate distributor.
I though that was dwell, or how much the points open up? or what am i thinking about?
@@rwallaceiv well you might be right! I have a california spec 77 20R it does not have points. Its electronic ignition. But it has the knob. When i set timing like your video I can fine tune it by rotating the knob. But maybe Im messing something else up :)
Did you guys ever fiquer that out? I have the same on my 77 20 R i got to use a dwell meter to set the point dwell/ Gap. being close to 50 years old you can't use a feeler gage. @trevart9200
What would you do? 👋
1977 toyota 20R Chinook.
1. Had carb rebuilt
2. It still coughed after 3-4 store stops turning off.
3. After returning shopping it did not fire up start right away, eventually it would.
Almost like flooded. Reliable.
4. I did have a water pump leak & thermostat housing leak.
5. Put new thermostat in new gasket no leak.
6. In the mean time I found after cleaning hood inside a hose map & connected according to it cuz some hoses just left loose.
7. After a howling continuous sound would not go away.
8. A friend said I had an exhaust leak because of sound but I didn't before I decided to follow hose map.
Wanna disconnect hoses except one that goes to distributor.
9. Water pump leak got bad but temp never got to hot. Always coolant 👌
10. Found the temp sensor wire off one day no reading.
11. Cleaned it up stayed normal
12. Got hot days start up fast did not have to warm up, no choke came on,, take off great.
5 miles stopped store a chugga lug started.
6. Would not start seemed hot or flooded waited to long time, had groceries took bus later evening cooled down started normal drive OK until just b4 home started heavy chugga a lug barely got home really hot no reading on gauge.
Put new plugs, wires, thermostat gasket water pump gasket......started OK but HOT FAST.
Got new water pump gonna put on.
Gonna try to start it almost started without all that after carb adjustment but obviously got to hot would not run and die.
Next am putting pre gapped points in.
So fail safe thermostat gasket new.
Water pump new.
Plugs, wires, will put pre gapped points, new coolant, flushed radiator everything inside engine clean.
Floater level window shows gas at lie a little above.
Big day soon will find out try to start it.
💋😘
add me as a friend on facebook and i can help you and we can share video calls while we are looking at engine facebook.com/ralph.r.wallace
@@rwallaceiv do you charge, senior low income, that is why I am doing this myself. Looked again at timing video.
I was thinking of looking for that line. Listening to engine, turning slightly left or right, no hand held device available.
The truck ran better longer after it cooled down. Burped. Radiator had some coolant so thermastat fail safe working.
Thought maybe try new cap, although new it would not come off once, pried it open, never got hot though......
The engine ran to 1/4 gage temp......
Started getting sluggish, stepped on peddle engine started shaken struggled.
Eventually just died.
Suggestions? Sprayed carb cleaner too b4 starting, want to while running reving it if I can maybe unclog?
FRUSTRATED........ran great b4.
💋😘
@@lindaleehulsey3167 I wonder if you are having vapor lock? Or the fuel is getting too hot in the line and is bubbling past the carb float and flooding the engine, and then after you let it sit. The gas evaporates and then it will let you run the engine again until it gets too hot, and then the cycle repeats. An easy way to test is to run a clear fuel hose going into the carb and look for bubbles in the fuel, and to change to non ethanol fuel. Which doesn't boil as quick.
I would check your vent lines
Hey where is the tach wire on the 20r in the engine compartment?
...tachometer?
what tachometer
@@Chimera6297 you can get a 20r with a tachometer
Hi I have a 1977 toyota pickup. I've had this issue for a while where i push the gas all the way and still have low acceleration. What are the chances that my timing is off? Or if you have any suggestions id appreciate it. Thanks
Could be anything. But go buy a 30 buck timing light and check. Then clean your carb and do a tune up
On a 77 20R the dwell is set between 52 to 54° degrees, take your dwell meter, and varifly where that degree setting is at...as you look at it FACE ON.(lot of scales are condense so small that when you read the scale while your adj the points it give you a false reading) it may take several attempts to get it right,so what I do is set the point gap as the engine is being turned over by a helper. Dis connect yor vacuumed advance hose
I then set the dwell to 55° so when I tighten the point screws down it ends up at 52°
Mark your Harmonical balancers with white fingernail polish on the notch.
Take your timing light, aim directly down ward
,if your timeing does not match up with the marks,take a 14 mm boxed wrench ,loosed the distributor hold down clamp and slightly turned the distributor CCW until the timing marks align. Your timing is set.Reconnect your vacuumed advance line,proceed to your carburetor and idj RPM for curb side idle....
Reconnect any vacuumed lines
Take your can of carb cleaner,spray short burst around the vacuumed lines and at the base of your carburetor. If the engine raises in RPM you have a vaccum leak.replace that vacuumed line. If it reves up at the carb tighten/ Snub the base bolts down ..check again. You probable gain a 30% increase in horse power,and gas milage, if done right.
I have a 77 Corona with a 20r. Previous owner messed around with the engine bay. Any info where the fuel return line hooks up?
To the charcoal canister bottom
I have a 1976 Toyota Chinook and am located in CA too. Do you have the stock carburetor or is that after market carb? If it is after market carb, is it smog legal and what type of carb is it? Thank you.
I have an extra carb. You need one?
@@rwallaceiv Hey Ray, my stock carb seems to be ok, but my truck stalls out once engine warms up and I am idling. I think I need to adjust my points in my distributor. Any tips?
@@mattc.5047 replace all that stuff, its cheap and easy, replace the cap, the rotor, those take 2 seconds, the points will need to be set, i dont have the info for that at moment. be sure to set your timing before you do any of that. if your timing is off, all these other symptoms could occur and throw you off. plus get rid of that stock carb and get a weber.
@@rwallaceiv Cool, I wasn't sure if the weber carb was smog legal in CA, so I didn't want to deal with that since 76 and newer require smog!