Can we hack a Livarno GU10 LED lamp?
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- Опубликовано: 3 июн 2022
- It's always interesting to explore different types of LED lamp to see if they can be hacked for longer life by reducing their power.
This lamp CAN be hacked, but it's not quite as easy as some of the others.
If tacking a standard resistor on in place of the existing surface mount ones, keep in mind that the lead should not touch the metallised lamp coating, and should be shaped to allow the plastic lens to be refitted.
When I said "dooby" it's a reference to the super-efficient Dubai lamps. By decreasing power dissipation of the LEDs the lifespan of these lamps can be increased greatly. At very low power the lamp could last thousands of times longer due to the greatly reduced thermal stress. The LEDs also operate at much higher efficiency when under-run.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of RUclips's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
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This Lidl Light of Clive’s, I’m gonna modify.
It took me too long to understand this…
And when I modify and it dies? I’m gonna let it fly.
Oh lord... thanks for the earworm >:[
Take your upvote and leave! 🤣
This is brilliant. Lol
The way you cut out the photos in the shape of the PCB is a nice touch.
Until you stab your multimeter probes through the paper...
Huh? There are no photo's, bigclive is actually very tiny, about 1 and a half foot tall, he's a giant among his people tho hence the name.
I don't know about the other subscribers on here but to me, each time I watch your videos and I ask myself a question, you seem to answer it at the right time. I listen to what you say and then a question pops up in my mind. Just as if you had heard the question, you answer it either by you making an assumption or point out the obvious use of a particular part. Impressive my man.
I guess those resistor values were chosen for economic/availability reasons. While 2x 75R resistors would make more sense it's possible they cost an extra $1 per 25k ammo box. Or they were ordered but had a longer delivery time (usually months rather than days) or something so they just worked with what they already had in inventory. I imagine this type of substitution has been happening alot with mosfet and other silicon parts due to the shortage.
For some reason, I thought GU10 LED was a postcode near Guildford
Thankyou so much for not having adverts in your videos. I'm leaving comments in many other channels that I watch where the viewer experience is really awful now that some channel owners have selected to have adverts beginning, middle and end. ...to the point where I now don't visit the channels as frequently and have stopped viewing some all together.
A much easier to remove the lens cover is use a hair dryer to loosen up the glue and prevent damage to the housing. I have used a hairdryer on many similar type jobs with excellent results.
Very pro tip!💪
Excellent for phone screens and stuff too, that are often held in with those 3M "glue mousetrap" sheets.
or have it running just before you take it apart, a 5w light is a 5w heater
Tl;dr why do you hack them?
@@lopwidth7343 To lower the power draw and save on power bills. Sure the 5ish Watts of these lamps out of the box is lower than the 50W halogens they replaced, but drop that to 3ish Watts and you're saving a further 40ish percent on the lamp's contribution to your power bills. It also can be done to achieve a dimmer lamp where you might want such, although the power savings would probably be the primary reason...
Seems the manufactures are watching you Big Clive and changing things up ever so slightly. I love it. Keep up the great teaching.
This was a piece of cake. On Philips consumer units, especially the GU5,3 ones, the circuitry is much harder to get at.
the fact that you make "cut outs" of the boards will always astound me
I believe "Ward off evil spirits" is the correct term for what a nightlight does.
I think you should test how well the heat shrink tubing would prevent a catastrophic boom if it were to fail *hint* *hint* :)
Electroboom collab?
Oh, yes 👍
Sounds a bit short to me 🤣
I like it when you cut out the shape of the board printed on paper. It turns makes a Scottish giant look like a Scottish gnome.
Thank you for explaining how to read the resistor values!
Clive, As always have educated and enlightened me. i/we appreciate ALL of your video clips. thank you.
The heat shrink could be doing double duty: containing any explosions and reducing the resistor's power rating. That heat shrink increases its thermal resistance to ambient so it will reach melting temperature with less current. Maybe 2 watts was too much, so they tuned it down to 1ish.
Always intriguing, thanks Clive!
You could have used a tiny potentiometer in the 100 Ohm range for testing purposes. Just don't forget to cut the power when adjusting it.
@@Senshikaji insulated screwdriver ? clive bridges caps with his fingers to test if they have dangerous juice left in 'em. 😆
We do love it when "the big picture" lands on the desk.
Strangely, a combination of 68 and 82 Ohm resistors would have given almost the same result, possibly they didn't want to make it too easy.
As an ex broadcast engineer 2 x 75 ohm came immediately to mind!
I understand where you are coming from, but 68 and 82 Ohms are standard resistor values, 75 Ohm isn't.
@@chrishartley1210 75Ω is standard in the 5% E24 series.
@@frankhovis and how does price compare?
@@ClosestNearUtopia Well, going with two resistors of the same value would reduce the BOM by one position.
Awesome led gu10 bulb big Clive
Great hack thanks Clive
Keep in mind that 39 // 1K is as if you use a 39 ohm resistor with 5% precision and get one close to its lowest possible value
I bought a pack of 10 Lampways 5w GU10 lamps from Aldi for £7.99 about 8 years ago and immediately fitted 9 of them into my kitchen. None have failed so far; very impressed.
I like how you cut the picture to the right shape. =)
I love watching your videos your voice reminds me of a teacher its calming lol
.... It implies trust,
Engenders, (better word).
More of the solutions which first brought your channel to my attention? Commenting as someone diagnosed w/ adult-onset scotopic sensitivity & photosensitivity -- I'm grateful.
These videos help me better navigate options w/ regard to general lighting, task lighting & "visually intensive activities."
Great analysis, thank you.
Amazing video!
Please, do more like it.
Thanks man, you’re cool 😎
Would you be interested in a 90W LEDVANCE/OSRAM LED Streetlight bulb to take apart? It looks like a "corn on the cob" if you know what construction i mean by that. It has a E40 base and a very solid aluminium heatsink. Its heavy as fuck for an LED bulb.
Thanks, was a fun ride.
I bought 5 ea.3 W LEDs to replace the halogens that came with the flexible track lighting system.
It's amazing the amount of light you can get out of 15w..
Just a suggestion: When you change the resistor in a linear current regulator type lamp in order to drop the power, you could further reduce the current draw without affecting the light output by reducing the value of the smoothing capacitor. Optimum efficiency without flicker will occur when the troughs of the mains ripple just fail to drop low enough for the regulator to no longer cope. In most instances halving the capacitor's value will probably be fine, especially in the UK where our mains voltage is a little higher than in the rest of Europe.
Some website says: The voltage used throughout Europe (including the UK) has been harmonised since January 2003 at a nominal 230v 50 Hz (formerly 240V in UK, 220V in the rest of Europe). So, it's been roughly 20 years the same voltage.
@@Njazmo In practice it depends. Here in Brittany I'm at 235V. Although in any rural area the voltage can easily drop during the milking hours.
@@Njazmo But that harmonisation was just a paperwork thing. Nothing actually changed. The allowed tolerance on the 230 volts was +10% to -6%, covering an allowable range of 216 volts to 253 volts. So the UK remained at 240 volts and the EU at 220 volts - we just CALLED it 230 volts! In practice it varies somewhat with location and loading. Items sold in the EU are expected to be able to still work correctly over a voltage range of 230 volts +/- 10%, which is 207 volts up to 253 volts.
Nice lights bulbs videos related ! Clive for ever really interesting as ever
“… a very soft glow to scare away the ghosts”. Love it 😊
I have successfully soldered 50ohm trimmers instead of current sensing resistors in the past. Makes the brightness easily adjustable as one full turn is about 1 ohm difference (Make sure to get a linear one).
Sir, you are a genius.
Thank you!
It's good to know that these can be modified, although they're much more difficult to do. it's not worth just taking off the 1k resistor and leaving the 39 ohm resistor, as that will make little difference. but leaving the 1k resistor in will make it too dim.
Personally, I don't bother modifying my LEDs. If they die, they die. However, I will be on the look out for the new ultra efficient ones that are designed to be efficiency rating A on the new scale, rather than the current E's and F's.
Isn't the efficiency rating more to do with the "power to light ratio" (so to speak) rather than lifetime? Reducing the brightness may not make them more efficient but will reduce how quickly they end up in landfill?
@@kelvin1316 To reach higher efficiencies you need to keep the LED's cooler which dramatically increases their lifespan
Really destructive reverse engineering, but what the hell - it happens.
BTW. I was at some point confused by 390 being 39R rather than 390R, but looking at it as the power of 10 (i.e. 39 x 10^0 = 39 x 1 = 39) helps explain things much better.
It's easier when the digits are color bands, which is exactly how the old color code worked (with metallic colors for negative powers of 10 as needed for 3.9 ohm or 0.39 ohm).
@@johndododoe1411 exactly. Once you know how it really works, it's easier to memorize it.
“One moment please…” t-shirt. I shall continually pester until you make one! I will happily design it for you should you wish!
Really interesting!!
Very cool to learn how these work, wish they came with a variable resistor with a knob you could twist with a screwdriver to set the light level :D
You have never heard of pwm is it..?
They were called dimmer switches,
@@ClosestNearUtopia Clive said at around 6:50 that it uses a linear regulator, so not PWM. Just replace the pair of resistors with a 1 kohm pot in series with a 39 ohm fixed resistor and be careful when you poke your screwdriver in to adjust it!
are you guys suggesting "pwm"-ing AC power going into the led lamp that isn't built for dimming? :D Not the brightest idea.
@@gelisob I'm not. I can't speak for anyone else.
Just for the info, yes LIVARNO is from LIDL supermarkets; I've had Livarno stuff before.
Don't use Aldi but regularly use LIDL.
Same circuit on the lidl livarno 10watt lamps . so easy to hack :)
I'm wondering about that 'FUN' button on the new meter. I'd be real 'fun' if that button caused the output voltage to double 😈
(I imagine it probably actually means Function)
It causes it to stop working. (dysfunction is its function)
He should actually hack that device's button to actually do FUN stuff when pressed.
BANG!! hahahaha
What happened to the original Hopi? Is the new one better/same/worse? Are there any different features?
nothing happened to it, he bought a cheapie to see if it was any good.
@@fumthings I hope to see a comparison between the two
Lidl just a month or two ago opened here in Estonia too. Went over to see if they have those bulbs. They did, only single package - efficiency marked on package a terrible G.
Opens up the same, easy - inside only one resistor populated, 36 ohm. So we got hotter burning and thus poopier efficiency rating?
Chip is marked ICL1103, 120147AD
pretty weird that they're still using multi-layer dielectric films for MR16/GU10 dichroic reflectors in the present era since they're....ya know...totally pointless when used with LEDs. The whole reason they were used was to, as briefly alluded to, allow the considerable amounts of IR from the halogen incandescent bulb to pass through but reflect the visible light forward. Completely pointless with a LIGHT emitting diode that produces no IR. It'd be far cheaper, easier and faster just to coat the inside with a thin layer of aluminum instead. In fact, the whole super reflective coating thing is kind of obviated when there isn't a filament at the focus of the parabola and you've replaced it with a flat PCB that has highly directional LEDs. Skip the whole vacuum deposited coating thing all together and just paint the damn thing white on the inside! Weird vestigial design remnants of lighting technologies past persisting into the present...
If this led is meant to replace halogen di chro lights, then having them look the same is a key selling point
@@iolithblue they may still make halogen lights, so if this is the case, they possibly take them from the assembly line and add the LED assembly.
Even so, like has been said, the dichroic metal isn't necessary, so it should be taken off the halogen assembly line sooner, and this save some money.
It is a bit un-needed. However I like the look of it.
Something about real glass and the special filters used looks nice to me.
As an employee of Lidl, I can tell you that the reason they're so cheap is because they source a lot of old components that are no longer used.
I expect these dichoric glass assemblies have been laying around for a good five years, with no use since most incandescents are no longer in production.
So Lidl will buy them in bulk at a discount, and re-purpose them.
The end result is very good - A cheap product for me and you, and less potential waste going to landfill.
The same is true of their car headlight bulbs - They're branded as 'Ultimate Speed' on the outer packaging. But the actual lamps are branded Wotan, which (I think) was Osram before the name change.
They've probably been new-old stock for 20+ years. But still perfectly fine lamps.
I use a pair of the W4 +100% in my car, and they're the best headlight bulbs I've ever had. Lasted over two years and very bright. And at 2 packs of 2 (4 bulbs) for £8, who's complaining?! :D
the company is using surplus reflectors
Possibly just using up old inventory of glass from making halogen lamps...
I think you could have made the video at least twice as long if you tried adding a capacitor to the circuit where you noted it was optional in the circuit. It would have been nice to see how such a capacitor affected the functionality in addition to the resistors.
well, as Clive showed in the past, no need for a pcb emplacement to put a series capacitor. Easier than opening the lamp, especially when dealing with this GU type.
good mod and easy mod to do on some .the only thing that ends up becoming an issue is the cor change and light intensity.lumens/ft candles and light color .
The screaming scares away the ghosts. And it's free of charge.
.. Cheers to you ..
A 100 ohm trim pot would make for a nice adjustable Lamp.
Woooow, sooooo interesting.
I got completely fed up with no-name GU10 dimmable lamps blowing up and taking out my trailing edge dimmers a few times per year. Took the plunge and paid the extra for brand name lamps and they have now lasted several years (always on minimum brightness in my living room).
I used to get so many emergency call outs from cheap GU10 lamps. O don't know why but when the lamp dies they like to go bang and trip the breaker. People would panic and I would get a late night call out to remove the blackened lamp, test the circuit, and reset the breaker.
I also remember a ceiling fan that was sold cheap by a major hardware chain... It was everywhere. The fan came with a remote control and the light fitting on the fan was 3 GU10 lamps. When a lamp blew it would kill the remote receiver in the fan 🤣. I always told customers to buy good quality GU10 lamps (like Phillips) to prevent this but they never listened.
I think it would be cool if you did a part two where you build the items back but with a twist🤞
You want him to build a Dairy Queen lamp?
@@johnpossum556 omg the possibilities are endless
In theory, if you put a variable resistor in series with the 39 ohm /1k ohm parallel resistors the you could make it dimmable.
I like the fact the AnTai has a Fun button!
Not a bad light bulb the resistror values were a bit odd. 2x👍
I mount iron upside down and turn it on on about boiling water setting to use as hotplate, makes a great job of preheating aluminium backed pcbs to make them easy to solder
I used to clamp my iron in a vice for that. I've got a proper SMD hotplate now.
10:50 Came across low melt solder. Originally meant for soldering/reworking heat sensitive SMDs. Some with melting as low as 125°C. Which would be perfect for such applications.
Got to get that hopi knock off, its got FUN written on it! What more do you want?
.... Take it to a boring birthday party,
Just bright enough to scare away the ghost. I've got to save that one for my grandkids.
It'd be neat if you could take a look inside a Philips hue bulb
I had a dream you and Fran tore each other down and then couldn't find trays for all the quality machine screws.
I wish Fran would do more teardowns again.
@@sometimesleela5947 yes they're so neat.
You'd have an extra part after you assembled Fran back together again.
Mr. Clive, I'd love to see you tear down some (any) color kinetics gear if you ever have the inclination. Their original colordial (which doesn't require POE) is basically obsolete now, and the new Colordial pro requires POE, so it's more expensive to set up... and is not as simply responsive when dialing through the spectrum. The whole selection of scenes on CD pro throws off the simple dial function that Colordial 1 had. I wonder how to hack together the same functionality? The original is (I think) just a potentiometer, with some secret sauce circuitry, which makes a dmx like signal that their PDS150e power supply can process without POE. (For anyone not familiar, POE is an abbreviation for "Power Over Ethernet")
Interesting lamp. Is the An Tai better than the Hopi?
Hopi is easier to say 😎
The new unit is more accurate over a much smaller power range.
Dimmer means also less heat produced and longer lifespan
Me: I can program Basic on a TI-83+ graphing Calculator and use that at work to make my life easier.
Clive: I can rip it apart and tell you how it works!
So far all the GU10 LED lamps I've seen were either fully plastic or some combination of plastic and aluminium, except for the Trådfri smart ones from Ikea and now this one.
I've noticed, when it does regulate the voltage for getting abit too hot, it starts flickering lightly.
Interesting how you can just add a higher or lower value resistor and it lowers or ... the brightness. 🤔👍
Everywhere I go, Clives Lidl Light will Shine.
Nifty. If one can prevent the glass breaking, every part of the innards could be turned into something else. 👍️ What happened to the Hopi?
nothing happened to it, he bought a cheapie to see if it was any good.
@@fumthings Ahh OK. That makes sense.
@@Okurka. thanks, i forgot that part.
Clive - why the new Antax meter? What did you do to the Hopi ?
Get a multimeter and a blade, scrape a bit off the smaller-valued resistor while measuring its value, and you'll be able to double it.
You're also lowering its wattage rating, but it's not really supposed to dissipate much heat.
Very apropos video. I have two led tube style lights that are just too damned bright. Rather than waste them sitting in storage, I might just take it to bits to see if I can remove/change a resistor or two. Thanks.
This video is lit
Please provide a link to where you got your new Hoppi. Thanks.
This is what I've been looking for! I have some lights that I'd like to dim. I've tried PWM with a MOSFET between the driver and the LED. The results were WEIRD!!
Can I recommend buying a few reels of surface mount resistors. They are not expensive and you end up with much neater hacks that can be almost undetectable. All my new projects are 100% smd for convenience and simplicity of PCB design. Though I must admit smd capacitors are a bit of a pain, I end up using tantalum far too often.
Could you solder a trim pot and adjust it live big fella ? Or the resistor wheel ????
Livarno is, indeed, LIDL’s own brand of LED lights, I have a lot of them here at home.
What's with the HOPI versus the Antai? Very curious.
Hey, Big Clive, did you blow anything up for the Jubilee? Any thoughts on the lighting ceremony/displays?
Big Clive's rendition of the 1812 overture but with resistors and capacitors instead of cannons.
"You've kinda worked it out already haven't you?"
Oh Clive, your faith in me is touching, but it's also misplaced
"Let's hope the glass doesn't break". Continues to pry it open without gloves
Hey watchers of bigclive, fyi, clive did a review of UVC bulb from China about a year ago and I thought it would be great to make a pond algae killer with it. A storage toute, light fixture and extension cord later I had gismo I could sit over the waterfall part as needed. Here's the FYI part, the bulb died ($35 Cnd) in less than 4 hours. Oh well live and learn. Great channel Clive love your stuff, this is NO dis on you at all sir.
That's odd. I wonder why it failed.
send it over to BC for investigation !
Sorry if I missed it have you done an unboxing / review / reasons why the new "hoppy"? Take care and stay safe, Mike
I haven't. I just started using it.
@@bigclivedotcomwas going to ask the same thing. Did it blow up, die of age or is the new one more accurate?
@@SyCoREAPER The newer one works when you have lower power requirements than the Hopi will show.
@@bigclivedotcom Does that mean the old HOPI is still 'hopping' then?
I've looked everywhere for a HOPI, but can't find one. I'm guessing that this is a new name for the same thing?
@@whitesapphire5865
._.) Just print "Hopi" and glue it to the Meter..
It's easier..
🙃 I just thinking to print "Jack" and glue it to my Meter..
Maybe naming tool has positive effect on the mood..
Great videos! please buy a smd resistor kit :)
Live or no!
I’m maybe 3 miles from the nearest Aldi in my part of Florida but 500 miles from the nearest Lidl - which is in northern Georgia. Easy for me to avoid confusion.
Clive bringing the confidential documents for us now. Can we see the Johnny English video of you retrieving these 🙈
I'd just bypass the linear regulator and convert it to a capacitive dropper myself. I want the bright light in my kitchen and have a relatively high mains voltage so converting it to capacitive, would make it run cooler and give the same light.
"5 kWh/1000h" is a very convoluted way of phrasing 5W
Datasheet says that the current is set by impressing 0.6V across the current-setting resistor. Let's see ... 0.6V/37.5Ω = 16mA. Times 240V*1.414 = 5.4 watts. Science! So applying some simple algebra, if you want to target a certain power consumption, then set R to 204/Pd.
This is the way.
You could drill the wires out and save the housing. Not as exciting as glass shattering but would make the lamp practically hackable.
You only need to take the front lens off to hack it. This was a teardown to analyse the circuitry.
Wonder if it's worthwhile to solder a Pin Header Socket instead of directly soldering the resistor so that you can easily swap out the resistor to a different one.
Interesting, Lidl sell these in the USA for 120V applications. I don't have a fixture that uses these bulbs, so I never bought them. It would be interesting to compare them for the European market.
I found some glass led lamps similar to that kind of and the moment my screwdriver/pry tools touched the glass to pop the top, the glass shattered in my hands lol I instantly put it back in the box and on the shelf they went 😅 they were in clearance for 2 dollars so I got them
I've been thinking about starting a channel, quite shamefully, that is kind of like yours but the difference being I am an absolute Noob at electronics still But I'm on the glorious journey of learning and enlightenment when it comes to electronics. I doubt people would be interested in someone who doesn't know what they're doing taking apart electronics.. I don't know, we'll see.
So, you broke a product in a shop then bought it at a discount because it was broken?
@@KJ6EAD I should have phrased that better, I bought it, then broke it lol