excellent 👍 i’m having loss of power that indicates the fault of this unit. still work in progress. if ok with you i would like to get your advise at some point as you seem to be very experienced with this engine. i actually love how it’s put together and i take good care of it. sadly you have to face those issues eventually
Witamy w schowku Gboard. Tu będzie przechowywany każdy tekst, który skopiujesz.Witamy w schowku Gboard. Tu będzie przechowywany każdy tekst, który skopiujesz.
Dude that was a great ideia! I got my old flap laying around, might give it a try. Its such a expensive part to replace here in Portugal too, got mine done but might help other friends here with the same problem. Greats videos as always!
This happened to my wife's 2013 Beetle. VW at Waitara in Sydney quoted $1,100 to replace inc labour. Took me 20min to pull it out then just have to clean and replace.
I I do this but we have a lot of oil vapor always going inside in the mecanism of inlet valve/flap. I just install an oil catch can disconnecting de inlet durite and the results is perfect, even after 1500km, i have no problems now.
всем привет хочу поделится своей радость наконец-то моя борьба с моим автомобилем закончилась целый год боролся я победил в 2015 году купил vw jetta 1.4 tsi 150 сил катался три года все было отлично пока не загорелся чек обороты не поднимались больше 3000 ( а должны в положении коробки Р до 4000) при резком нажатии педали газа скорость не поднималась выше 40км или 60 км поехал к знакомому диагносту результат ошибка (Р10А4 будь она не ладно я эту ошибку на всю жизнь запомнил) ошибка выскачила на пробеге около 50000км диагност предложил почистить дроссельную заслонку на впуске процедура точно такая же как рассказано выше процедура обошлась 2000-2500 т.р. собрали заслонку машина поехала как раньше на пробеге 58000км опять та же история та же ошибка (Р10А4 сука сколько она мне крови Выпила) принял решение заменить заслонка обошлась 15000т.р. поменял сам руки растут с того места подумал все но хрен там на пробеге 85000км как вы догадались Р10А4 мразь первая мысль продать нахрен машину и больше с вагом не связываться но здравый смысл взял верх дело оказалось ЧТО ВИНОВАТ( Клапан регулирование давление наддува) ЦЕНА ВОПРОСА 1600 РУБЛЕЙ ПОМЕНЯЛ САМ МАШИНА ЕДЕТ КАК РАНЬШЕ НОМЕР ЗАПЧАСТИ 03C906283B ПОСТАВИЛ НЕ ОРИГИНАЛ Pierburg 70258804050 ВСЕ ТЕПЕРЬ ОХРЕНЕНО ОБОРОТЫ ЕСТЬ РАЗГОН ЕСТЬ СКОРОСТЬ НАБИРАЕТ Я ЛЮБЛЮ СУКА ВАГ КОРОТКО ГОВОРЯ ЧИСТКА ПОМОГАЕТ ВРЕМЕННО МНЕ ПОМОГЛА НА 8000КМ ПОСЛЕ ЗАМЕНЫ ВСЕ БЫЛО ХОРОШО 23000 КМ ПОМЕНЯЛ КЛАПАН ВСЕ ТЕПЕРЬ КАК НАДО ПОСЛЕ ЗАМЕНЫ КЛАПАНА РАЗОБРАЛ ЕГО В НЕМ НИЧЕГО ЭЛЕКТРИЧЕСКОГО НЕТ ПОЭТОМУ ДИАГНОСТИКА ЕГО НЕ ПОКАЗЫВАЛА . ВСЕМ УДАЧИ НЕ ЛОМАЙТЕСЬ
Thanks this is very helpful. So is there supposed to be oil getting into the unit and does this highlight another problem as have a 118 TSI in the family that has needed this part twice now in about 2 1/2- 3 years?
Oil is getting in from the breather system. These engines are well known to burn oil and various updated parts to rectify it. Oil really shouldn't be in there, or at least minimal amounts.
Why not drill a small hole in the bottom at the lowest point after cleaning so that any future oil can drain out ? Nothing will get into there as the hole will be on the bottom of the unit.
I think drilling a hole at the lowest point would be the best way to go. I only used the dremel cut as it was in the correct place already just by chance. I mentioned that drilling there would be the way to go. Maybe leaving the hole is a good idea for it to be able to drain out.
I had this error code DTC: P10A4 and I did it as you show and it was super effective and the error disappeared and it worked again. Thank you very much for making this video, I saved a lot. God bless and more power to your channel🙏
Hi. I have a Seat ibiza 1.4 TSi 6j cupra, BocaNegrA version with 180hp. Original. I m doing the replacement of that throttle. But I also have to replace the other one behind . Exactly behind of that black plastic throttle, theres another metal throttle. So How can I differentiate the alignment from the plastic throttle to the metal throttle with VCDS and vagcom??
Hi sir! Great videos, and thanks for helping in the Thomas VW video. As I asked a question there and you commented. Just wanted to know, Audi B7 2.0T quattro. Oil in the intercooler pipes. Question is, how to know if it's the turbo seal or something related to the turbo, or the PCV system causing it. Thanks in advance
Is it smoking fron the exhaust? If not, I'd just drain it out and recheck it in 1000km and see what the build is like. It is normal for some oil to be in the intercooler pipes on a turbocharged car with a close circuit breather system as the breather vents back into the front of the turbo. You can remove the turbo intake pipe and check for excessive play of the turbo shaft also.
@@benelsh6792 had the same issie, i made sure i disconnected everything on the left and right side. Then loosened all 4 bolts and I could pull it up a bit which allowed me to take of the last bolt on the bottom.
Thanks for the videos. Took a while to get my head around but now I've watched all of them. We've had a longstanding issue with this on our VW 1.4 tsi Tiguan 2011. VW replaced the switch over valve which helped for 6 months. However engine code p10a4 has returned. It's gone into limp mode and won't go above 3000rpm. I'm going to try and make a hole and clean the mechanics out with WD40. I'll let you know how I get on... Will there be any issues with having a hole left open in this unit? Will a catch can prevent future build up?
Thanks man, you're a life and also money saver :) I just want to ask you about doing the basic settings because the menu which contains the list of compounds is not available for me , is this a problem of version of VCDS or something missing else ?
Salutare, am facut și eu același lucru, astăzi am demontat piesa noua și am puso pe cea veche, am curățat cu vd40. Am făcut un test este ca nouă voi vedea pe parcurs dacă mai apare eroarea!
Did you do the a replacement video for that part? I'm not able to loose the lower screw of the three, because there's too little space to put a torx in 😔 Has anyone a Pro Tipp for doing it properly?
Great video - thanks - have had a similar problem on mine - I've ended up taking off the inlet manifold though thinking it was the throttle valve not the flap unit and am struggling to source the gaskets to rebuild it again as per the service manual - there's 5 you need to replace - the two on the flap unit, the one on the throttle valve, the one on the charge pipe and the weird triangular one on the bottom - any chance you could let me know where you get yours from please? Cheers
Hi I have washed it out will test later. i have two problems which i think stem from an issue, I had the oil and filter changed but I think the oil was sub-standard. as it looked very black. I started to get sudden lack of power. and the engine warning light came on also a message came up 'High oil pressure switch off. I changed the oil + filter using mobil super 3000 5w-30. I have an Elm327 obd which I plugged in an got to codes P10A0 which relates to the flap and I guess the lack of power. The other code is P000B which I am not sure about I think it relates to the oil and maybe a blockage, how do you clean all the oil passages? the engine also sounds very lumpy.
Can I ask if the output test in this video is normal? Is it normal that it’s only going 45 degree open. Mine opens fully and closes fully when running outputting test... is that abnormal
I've tried the cleaning process, unfortunately it didn't work for me, I ordered a new one, but the fault code for me is P10A0 drive control valve for intake electrical fault. My VCDS from AliExpress doesn't have the basic settings for the valve, is there a another way to learn the control valve? I've got a VW Scirocco 1.4 TSI twincharged 160hp, is the P10A4 the same problem as you have, cause my car doesn't also run above 3000rpm.
So... This unit is sucking in oil from the charged air circuit due to poor flap spindle seals. By drilling or cutting the lower section would not only enable you to clean it but continue to allow drainage for the future. Excellent. Such clear video too... Well done that man 👍👌👍
@@FourRingsAuto Too many Techs don't have time or patience to fully investigate the root cause of problems.. Its easier and far more costly for the customer to just keep swapping out parts. I want to know why and to see if it can be prevented. Although I do realise that all parts are "engineered" to eventually fail... So worn out is still worn out but is also different to Condemning a fouled up unit that just requires a good clean out.
thanks so much.... worked well, took about an hour to complete. i just drilled a 6mm hole in the bottom and cleaned out with carb cleaner, decided to leave hole open so oil can drain 🤷♂. blew out with the air clean and reinstalled. error code gone and works fine and not limited to 3k rpm. let’s see how long it last. definitely worth a try.
@@mahmutcelikturk8447 i drilled the hole just below where the pinion gear of the motor is on the bottom. i didn't cover the hole as i'm thinking it would allow the oil to drain out the maybe prevent it from filling up and causing the problem again. not sure if its a good or bad idea having it open but i'm going to chance it just for the reason to allow drainage. hope this helps, mine is still running since doing it.
@@FourRingsAuto erratic idle issue's low idle then upto 1100rpm then settles. Demand aircon and it settles. Thank you for the reply your videos are very very informative thanks for sharing 👍.
$750 AUD i was just quoted for this part. Watched your first video and thought “wonder if i can drill a hole in it and flush it out”. Mind reader. Question- when you do a key cycle, does the flap do a full close/open cycle when it’s working right? I haven’t got the full software
From memory I believe it does do a full sweep, but it's been a while since I've had one with this issue actually. I feel.like the very first one that I experienced with this issue would try do a full sweep and not be happy due to the oil inside it. It kept flicking back and forth but not actually doing it's full travel.
$750 AUD isn't a nice pill to swallow. These have gone up so much in price over a couple of years. For that $750 though you could buy the full version of VCDS and consider it paid off by this repair alone not having to buy the part. I've had so much positive feedback regarding this fix long-term.
@@FourRingsAuto , I’ll give it a flush out tommorow and see how it goes. These 2 videos were so comprehensive that i feel like i don’t need the software anyway. Showing the pinouts and ohm readings, and all the other steps, without any droning on about useless crap. Honestly, top 10 of any instructional videos i’ve ever watched.
Bro, what if this code appear, what should I do?( P10A000- actuation regulating flap For intake air electrical error.) We replaced the unit but the code still cannot be clear.
Just watch your video. My 2010 cavd 1.4tsi 160bhp has a judder when accelerating. Between 2500 -3500 revs. Some times does it twice. Felt it more going up hill. But does it most in 6th gear on the motorway. I hope it's the flap and not the start of a miss fire. Thanks
@@FourRingsAuto book it in today at a garage on Thursday for a check. Feel like it's time is up as done 97000 miles. Had timing chain done at 83000. Spend money or just drive it till it blows? That's my choice Thanks for the reply
@@twincammini3874 clean all MAP sensors. 1.4 tsi with supercharger has three MAP sensors. i had the same problem at 2200 to 2500 rpm on CAVA engine, (150 hp first gen tiguan) oil film prevents MAP sensor to measure pressure correctly. Especially the first sensor which measures the air pressure right after air filter.
@@coskuarsiray are those the G853, G31 and G71? I have a shudder from approx. 2000 to 2500(+) which seems to cause misfires on high speed cruising with a sudden demand for power. But no misfires, but still a shudder at normal speeds with sudden demands.
@@FourRingsAuto Hi I have washed it out will test later. i have two problems which i think stem from an issue, I had the oil and filter changed but I think the oil was sub-standard. as it looked very black. I started to get sudden lack of power. and the engine warning light came on also a message came up 'High oil pressure switch off. I changed the oil + filter using mobil super 3000 5w-30. I have an Elm327 obd which I plugged in an got to codes P10A0 which relates to the flap and I guess the lack of power. The other code is P000B which I am not sure about I think it relates to the oil and maybe a blockage, how do you clean all the oil passages? the engine also sounds very lumpy.
I've seen it a lot with the 1.4tsi. Yes and no. Yes it's "normal" in that most 1. 4tsi engines are like it, but no it's not normal in that there can be exceptions where it's excessive amounts of oil due to things such as turbo failure, cracked piston ring lands leading to excessive blowby into the crank case etc. It's hard to give you an answer without seeing it. Worth taking the hose off the lowest point of the intercooler and seeing how much oil drains out also.
Four Rings Auto same problem, there are some breathing pipes from the engine going into the air intake pipe,this is where the oil is coming from, take one off and block the hole in the air intake, can add a oil catcher for the breathing hose that you took off,
It all sounds and looks great but what I am interested about is how long does this fix works for? (Any feedback from anyone who tried this fix?) Also I saw a long comment towards the end here in Russian saying that the replacement of charge valve 03C906283B rectified P10A4. I wonder if that is possible? I am raising it because I did buy a new flap which worked for like 2 months and then the same fault happened which made me return the flap and installed mine back... Cheers
P10a4 has the definition that the intake flap (electrically controlled) has a malfunction. You can see in the video the issue with the flap and then the oil found inside the motor that controls it. I've had multiple people feedback with no further issues. However, this is all depending on the user getting the diagnosis right. I check and test the wiring, and make sure the supercharger clutch on the water pump is functional if there are also boost codes or low power. There is no replacement for actual diagnostics!
Did the procedure and running great 3rd day. Water pump was replaced so I think that the flap alone was causing it (if no wiring issues). I was surprised because after the install all I did was erase the fault code with a 5$ OBD2 adapter and the car is revving above 3k and runs great! It will probably through that code soon though...When it does I will get it adapted.
excellent 👍
i’m having loss of power that indicates the fault of this unit. still work in progress. if ok with you i would like to get your advise at some point as you seem to be very experienced with this engine. i actually love how it’s put together and i take good care of it. sadly you have to face those issues eventually
Witamy w schowku Gboard. Tu będzie przechowywany każdy tekst, który skopiujesz.Witamy w schowku Gboard. Tu będzie przechowywany każdy tekst, który skopiujesz.
Dude that was a great ideia! I got my old flap laying around, might give it a try.
Its such a expensive part to replace here in Portugal too, got mine done but might help other friends here with the same problem.
Greats videos as always!
It will be interesting to see if more can be fixed this way.
This happened to my wife's 2013 Beetle. VW at Waitara in Sydney quoted $1,100 to replace inc labour. Took me 20min to pull it out then just have to clean and replace.
Will we close the hole we made? If we close it, with what?
Once again a great video, thanks for the tips.
When i scan, it showed intake flap, i already change it, checklight engine is gone after reset. But my car won’t pass more than 3000rpm..
How did you fix?
I I do this but we have a lot of oil vapor always going inside in the mecanism of inlet valve/flap. I just install an oil catch can disconnecting de inlet durite and the results is perfect, even after 1500km, i have no problems now.
всем привет хочу поделится своей радость наконец-то моя борьба с моим автомобилем закончилась целый год боролся я победил в 2015 году купил vw jetta 1.4 tsi 150 сил катался три года все было отлично пока не загорелся чек обороты не поднимались больше 3000 ( а должны в положении коробки Р до 4000) при резком нажатии педали газа скорость не поднималась выше 40км или 60 км поехал к знакомому диагносту результат ошибка (Р10А4 будь она не ладно я эту ошибку на всю жизнь запомнил) ошибка выскачила на пробеге около 50000км диагност предложил почистить дроссельную заслонку на впуске процедура точно такая же как рассказано выше процедура обошлась 2000-2500 т.р. собрали заслонку машина поехала как раньше на пробеге 58000км опять та же история та же ошибка (Р10А4 сука сколько она мне крови Выпила) принял решение заменить заслонка обошлась 15000т.р. поменял сам руки растут с того места подумал все но хрен там на пробеге 85000км как вы догадались Р10А4 мразь первая мысль продать нахрен машину и больше с вагом не связываться но здравый смысл взял верх дело оказалось ЧТО ВИНОВАТ( Клапан регулирование давление наддува)
ЦЕНА ВОПРОСА 1600 РУБЛЕЙ ПОМЕНЯЛ САМ МАШИНА ЕДЕТ КАК РАНЬШЕ НОМЕР ЗАПЧАСТИ 03C906283B ПОСТАВИЛ НЕ ОРИГИНАЛ Pierburg 70258804050 ВСЕ ТЕПЕРЬ ОХРЕНЕНО ОБОРОТЫ ЕСТЬ РАЗГОН ЕСТЬ СКОРОСТЬ НАБИРАЕТ Я ЛЮБЛЮ СУКА ВАГ
КОРОТКО ГОВОРЯ ЧИСТКА ПОМОГАЕТ ВРЕМЕННО МНЕ ПОМОГЛА НА 8000КМ ПОСЛЕ ЗАМЕНЫ ВСЕ БЫЛО ХОРОШО 23000 КМ ПОМЕНЯЛ КЛАПАН ВСЕ ТЕПЕРЬ КАК НАДО ПОСЛЕ ЗАМЕНЫ КЛАПАНА РАЗОБРАЛ ЕГО В НЕМ НИЧЕГО ЭЛЕКТРИЧЕСКОГО НЕТ ПОЭТОМУ ДИАГНОСТИКА ЕГО НЕ ПОКАЗЫВАЛА . ВСЕМ УДАЧИ НЕ ЛОМАЙТЕСЬ
Thanks this is very helpful. So is there supposed to be oil getting into the unit and does this highlight another problem as have a 118 TSI in the family that has needed this part twice now in about 2 1/2- 3 years?
Oil is getting in from the breather system. These engines are well known to burn oil and various updated parts to rectify it. Oil really shouldn't be in there, or at least minimal amounts.
Thanks
This comment goes out to my Electrical Principals teacher who had this video in her bookmarks bar; you're the best teacher we have!
What did your Electrical Principals teacher have to say on the video?
Four Rings Auto unfortunately nothing since I just saw it in the bookmarks bar when she opened up chrome
Oh ok. Did the video help you?
Fantastic investigation and remedial solution! 👍🏻
Why not drill a small hole in the bottom at the lowest point after cleaning so that any future oil can drain out ? Nothing will get into there as the hole will be on the bottom of the unit.
I think drilling a hole at the lowest point would be the best way to go. I only used the dremel cut as it was in the correct place already just by chance. I mentioned that drilling there would be the way to go. Maybe leaving the hole is a good idea for it to be able to drain out.
Plastic bond a little bleeder nipple onto it to flush it? This would then make this a serviceable part. With regular servicing just remove and flush.
Can you make a video about showing how to replace it? From the start until the end
??
I had this error code DTC: P10A4 and I did it as you show and it was super effective and the error disappeared and it worked again. Thank you very much for making this video, I saved a lot. God bless and more power to your channel🙏
Bloody legend, Nice one.
Hi. I have a Seat ibiza 1.4 TSi 6j cupra, BocaNegrA version with 180hp. Original. I m doing the replacement of that throttle. But I also have to replace the other one behind . Exactly behind of that black plastic throttle, theres another metal throttle.
So How can I differentiate the alignment from the plastic throttle to the metal throttle with VCDS and vagcom??
Hi sir!
Great videos, and thanks for helping in the Thomas VW video. As I asked a question there and you commented.
Just wanted to know, Audi B7 2.0T quattro. Oil in the intercooler pipes. Question is, how to know if it's the turbo seal or something related to the turbo, or the PCV system causing it.
Thanks in advance
how much oil?
@@FourRingsAuto Roughly 250ml. I should have measured it...
Is it smoking fron the exhaust? If not, I'd just drain it out and recheck it in 1000km and see what the build is like. It is normal for some oil to be in the intercooler pipes on a turbocharged car with a close circuit breather system as the breather vents back into the front of the turbo. You can remove the turbo intake pipe and check for excessive play of the turbo shaft also.
@@FourRingsAuto thanks brother,
Will run it and see! Really appreciate it
Thank you so much for your help! 🙏🙋♂️
Thanks so much. I removed it drilled a small hole, cleaned it with brake cleaner. Reassembled in less than 2 hours, problem solved!
Where exactly did you open the hole and what did you cover it with? I'm thinking of cleaning it with gasoline.
@@mahmutcelikturk8447 in the gap below the cog next to the motor. i used degreaser then a screw to fill the hole.
So I spent my day off fixing this issue, it works. Even though I did struggle a bit using obdeleven but it works!
You just instulled the new flap and it fixed? Or you used the app vcds?
@@benelsh6792 i repaired the one that stopped working, then reset it to basic settings with obdeleven.
I bought a new one at e bay just 260$, i need to replace it but the last bullet of the flap is unreachable and i dont know what to do😞
@@benelsh6792 had the same issie, i made sure i disconnected everything on the left and right side. Then loosened all 4 bolts and I could pull it up a bit which allowed me to take of the last bolt on the bottom.
@@zuidkb7312 alright,thanks alot man!
Thanks for the videos. Took a while to get my head around but now I've watched all of them.
We've had a longstanding issue with this on our VW 1.4 tsi Tiguan 2011. VW replaced the switch over valve which helped for 6 months. However engine code p10a4 has returned. It's gone into limp mode and won't go above 3000rpm.
I'm going to try and make a hole and clean the mechanics out with WD40. I'll let you know how I get on...
Will there be any issues with having a hole left open in this unit? Will a catch can prevent future build up?
Any updates? How fid it go?
Thanks man, you're a life and also money saver :)
I just want to ask you about doing the basic settings because the menu which contains the list of compounds is not available for me , is this a problem of version of VCDS or something missing else ?
Only a genuine ross tech vcds will work. Not an ebay "vcds" cable.
Thanks a lot....
I don't see why it would not work.
I think it's worth a go for sure!
What would it mean if you can do a output test but it’s not able to do a basic setting ? I’ve got the code P10A00
Salutare, am facut și eu același lucru, astăzi am demontat piesa noua și am puso pe cea veche, am curățat cu vd40. Am făcut un test este ca nouă voi vedea pe parcurs dacă mai apare eroarea!
Ουδέν μονιμότερον του προσωρινού translate it and be wiser
Does this incision, this gap that was made for cleaning, need to be sealed or plugged?
Did you do the a replacement video for that part?
I'm not able to loose the lower screw of the three, because there's too little space to put a torx in 😔
Has anyone a Pro Tipp for doing it properly?
Great video - thanks - have had a similar problem on mine - I've ended up taking off the inlet manifold though thinking it was the throttle valve not the flap unit and am struggling to source the gaskets to rebuild it again as per the service manual - there's 5 you need to replace - the two on the flap unit, the one on the throttle valve, the one on the charge pipe and the weird triangular one on the bottom - any chance you could let me know where you get yours from please? Cheers
Where is the link to the video where you are using pico scope for this? Thanks for taking your time out and posting the video.
Great vid by the way
P2015 2 times after 11 years do basic settings with vcds; i have racechip maybe this cause the problem; output tests do it;
Hi I have washed it out will test later. i have two problems which i think stem from an issue, I had the oil and filter changed but I think the oil was sub-standard. as it looked very black. I started to get sudden lack of power. and the engine warning light came on also a message came up 'High oil pressure switch off. I changed the oil + filter using mobil super 3000 5w-30. I have an Elm327 obd which I plugged in an got to codes P10A0 which relates to the flap and I guess the lack of power. The other code is P000B which I am not sure about I think it relates to the oil and maybe a blockage, how do you clean all the oil passages? the engine also sounds very lumpy.
Where are you guys based @fourringsauto ?
I got problem abs pump, so very expensive..can u do video how to repair abs pump if can repair...
Can I ask if the output test in this video is normal? Is it normal that it’s only going 45 degree open. Mine opens fully and closes fully when running outputting test... is that abnormal
When you change the air intake regulator flap do you have to program or reset the car computer box, or reprogram of any sort
I've tried the cleaning process, unfortunately it didn't work for me, I ordered a new one, but the fault code for me is P10A0 drive control valve for intake electrical fault. My VCDS from AliExpress doesn't have the basic settings for the valve, is there a another way to learn the control valve? I've got a VW Scirocco 1.4 TSI twincharged 160hp, is the P10A4 the same problem as you have, cause my car doesn't also run above 3000rpm.
How did you fix my golf 5 1.4 170bhp keeps in limp after replacing the part cant reset it, ia basic settings needed?
A problem with the j808 valve, what kind of effect produce during the driving? maybe engine tears between 2500 and 3000 rpm? thanks
So... This unit is sucking in oil from the charged air circuit due to poor flap spindle seals. By drilling or cutting the lower section would not only enable you to clean it but continue to allow drainage for the future.
Excellent.
Such clear video too... Well done that man 👍👌👍
Perfect understanding of my theory. As the car doesn't have a MAF, it's npt going to cause any air leak issues either.
Absolutely.
@@FourRingsAuto
Too many Techs don't have time or patience to fully investigate the root cause of problems.. Its easier and far more costly for the customer to just keep swapping out parts. I want to know why and to see if it can be prevented.
Although I do realise that all parts are "engineered" to eventually fail... So worn out is still worn out but is also different to Condemning a fouled up unit that just requires a good clean out.
I have same issue but no code
Good job man and good explanation you help me alot with those two video 👍🏽
Where can I purchase
Do you have to do any coding, when replacing this yourself.. or can you literally just plug and play
You should carry out basic setting.
Friend how do you get so many functions with vcds or what pin code do you use?
Do you have a genuine vcds?
I ordered one today, cost of $ 361 AU dollars, vw quoted $750
Pierburg?
thanks so much.... worked well, took about an hour to complete. i just drilled a 6mm hole in the bottom and cleaned out with carb cleaner, decided to leave hole open so oil can drain 🤷♂. blew out with the air clean and reinstalled. error code gone and works fine and not limited to 3k rpm. let’s see how long it last. definitely worth a try.
Where exactly did you open the hole and what did you cover it with? I'm thinking of cleaning it with gasoline.
@@mahmutcelikturk8447 i drilled the hole just below where the pinion gear of the motor is on the bottom. i didn't cover the hole as i'm thinking it would allow the oil to drain out the maybe prevent it from filling up and causing the problem again. not sure if its a good or bad idea having it open but i'm going to chance it just for the reason to allow drainage. hope this helps, mine is still running since doing it.
Excellent with good detail and clear video. Thanks
Top
Brilliant! Washed it out with oil instead and the fix has been working for over a week (and hopefully for years to come)!
What kind of oil? Is it still working?
Is it still working ?
Question: how is the idle controlled on the twin charge 1.4 tsi .. do they have an idle control valve?
Throttle body
@@FourRingsAuto erratic idle issue's low idle then upto 1100rpm then settles. Demand aircon and it settles. Thank you for the reply your videos are very very informative thanks for sharing 👍.
$750 AUD i was just quoted for this part.
Watched your first video and thought “wonder if i can drill a hole in it and flush it out”. Mind reader.
Question- when you do a key cycle, does the flap do a full close/open cycle when it’s working right? I haven’t got the full software
From memory I believe it does do a full sweep, but it's been a while since I've had one with this issue actually. I feel.like the very first one that I experienced with this issue would try do a full sweep and not be happy due to the oil inside it. It kept flicking back and forth but not actually doing it's full travel.
$750 AUD isn't a nice pill to swallow. These have gone up so much in price over a couple of years.
For that $750 though you could buy the full version of VCDS and consider it paid off by this repair alone not having to buy the part. I've had so much positive feedback regarding this fix long-term.
@@FourRingsAuto , I’ll give it a flush out tommorow and see how it goes.
These 2 videos were so comprehensive that i feel like i don’t need the software anyway. Showing the pinouts and ohm readings, and all the other steps, without any droning on about useless crap. Honestly, top 10 of any instructional videos i’ve ever watched.
Tbh I do tend to go off on tangents a drone on a bit 🤣 but I appreciate your kind feedback.
Bro, what if this code appear, what should I do?( P10A000- actuation regulating flap For intake air electrical error.) We replaced the unit but the code still cannot be clear.
Hi, have you found any solution?
@@ylbong954 yes, faulty regulating flap motor.
@@ylbong954 second unit we replaced is faulty also
@@nf4733did replacement solve the issue
Just watch your video. My 2010 cavd 1.4tsi 160bhp has a judder when accelerating. Between 2500 -3500 revs. Some times does it twice. Felt it more going up hill. But does it most in 6th gear on the motorway. I hope it's the flap and not the start of a miss fire.
Thanks
Could be a lot of things. A good start will be a scan with vcds
@@FourRingsAuto book it in today at a garage on Thursday for a check. Feel like it's time is up as done 97000 miles. Had timing chain done at 83000. Spend money or just drive it till it blows? That's my choice
Thanks for the reply
Been on the computer and no faults. Only seem do it when engine under load going up hill or high speed on motorway in 6th.
Thanks
@@twincammini3874 clean all MAP sensors. 1.4 tsi with supercharger has three MAP sensors. i had the same problem at 2200 to 2500 rpm on CAVA engine, (150 hp first gen tiguan) oil film prevents MAP sensor to measure pressure correctly. Especially the first sensor which measures the air pressure right after air filter.
@@coskuarsiray are those the G853, G31 and G71? I have a shudder from approx. 2000 to 2500(+) which seems to cause misfires on high speed cruising with a sudden demand for power. But no misfires, but still a shudder at normal speeds with sudden demands.
hi good video, but how did you open it up
You don't need to open it up. It's a sealed unit. Drill a hole in it like i explained in this video and wash the oil out.
@@FourRingsAuto Hi I have washed it out will test later. i have two problems which i think stem from an issue, I had the oil and filter changed but I think the oil was sub-standard. as it looked very black. I started to get sudden lack of power. and the engine warning light came on also a message came up 'High oil pressure switch off. I changed the oil + filter using mobil super 3000 5w-30. I have an Elm327 obd which I plugged in an got to codes P10A0 which relates to the flap and I guess the lack of power. The other code is P000B which I am not sure about I think it relates to the oil and maybe a blockage, how do you clean all the oil passages? the engine also sounds very lumpy.
in brisbane 21 Feb 2020 vw quoted $700 today
Just for the part?
@@FourRingsAuto yep
@@FourRingsAuto including gst
@@FourRingsAuto did your recycled one continue to work?? Personally i think they need a catchcan to keep the oil out of it.
@@phillipkennedy3444 yep. Had a few comments from people who've done it to a few cars too and all had great results.
My intake is full with oil, is that normal or not
I've seen it a lot with the 1.4tsi. Yes and no. Yes it's "normal" in that most 1. 4tsi engines are like it, but no it's not normal in that there can be exceptions where it's excessive amounts of oil due to things such as turbo failure, cracked piston ring lands leading to excessive blowby into the crank case etc. It's hard to give you an answer without seeing it. Worth taking the hose off the lowest point of the intercooler and seeing how much oil drains out also.
Four Rings Auto same problem, there are some breathing pipes from the engine going into the air intake pipe,this is where the oil is coming from, take one off and block the hole in the air intake, can add a oil catcher for the breathing hose that you took off,
It all sounds and looks great but what I am interested about is how long does this fix works for? (Any feedback from anyone who tried this fix?) Also I saw a long comment towards the end here in Russian saying that the replacement of charge valve 03C906283B rectified P10A4. I wonder if that is possible? I am raising it because I did buy a new flap which worked for like 2 months and then the same fault happened which made me return the flap and installed mine back... Cheers
P10a4 has the definition that the intake flap (electrically controlled) has a malfunction. You can see in the video the issue with the flap and then the oil found inside the motor that controls it. I've had multiple people feedback with no further issues. However, this is all depending on the user getting the diagnosis right. I check and test the wiring, and make sure the supercharger clutch on the water pump is functional if there are also boost codes or low power. There is no replacement for actual diagnostics!
Did the procedure and running great 3rd day. Water pump was replaced so I think that the flap alone was causing it (if no wiring issues). I was surprised because after the install all I did was erase the fault code with a 5$ OBD2 adapter and the car is revving above 3k and runs great! It will probably through that code soon though...When it does I will get it adapted.
Did you replace or clean the flap out of interest?
I cleaned it by drilling a tiny hole in it and spraying WD40 in until it came out clean.
Perfect