I love my ender 3 s1 dearly but this printer looks brilliant. I mean it does sound like A made in China R2-D2 but it seems like a really good midway between the ender 3 v2 and the S1
Yeah its good value. I had some issues with mine getting banged up in shipping, so I had to re-torque some screws. They recently switched from white styrofoam packaging to the more typical black spongy stuff that most other companies use, so hopefully that will protect the printers a little more. Also the z-axis was super-squeaky before I waxed it. But its been on sale for $280 for a while now, which I think is a pretty good deal, $100 cheaper than the S1, and simpler to use - there's definitely a place in the market for the Magician.
I used lithium grease on my lead screws for a while. Despite being nowhere near my printer, my cats managed to absolutely cover those screws in cat hair. It's disgusting, but the lead screws have run smooth regardless.
Wax based lubricant is awesome. Its an emulsion of wax particles suspended in water, so you just dump it on the leadscrew nut and run the printer. It spreads around and gets into every crevice due to capillary action, then it dries and leaves behind a perfect thin layer. Should shed dust and cat hair too, but fuzzy leadscrews sound cool too.
@@NathanBuildsRobots This is too professional sounding. How about dissolving wax in gasoline and painting your lead screws with that so that it leaves behind a waxy residue. 🙃
@@MichaelWatersJ You're almost describing WD-40. only issue is gasoline/WD-40 is damaging to many plastics, so it could do more harm than good, unless using it on a full- metal assembly, like rusty scissors or a door hinge. On the Magician X the lead screw nuts are plastic instead of brass, so definitely had to go with a water-based immulsion
@@NathanBuildsRobots how do you replace with all metal hotend? Do you know of anyone who has done it? Does migda have upgrade kit? Can you share the gcode they sent you?
As nice as auto level is, it might not be a bad idea to have a way to manually level printers with it. That way, if for some reason the auto level fails, you can still manually level it and continue to use the printer.
Don't forget all marlin machines have this style of bed leveling if you choose to activate it. But it's known to be bad because it runs the risk of damage to your bed. The thing that kills me about this review is the fact you can't change the extruder offset that leads me to believe you can't change xyz either. Is this just because he wanted to keep the review as basic as possible or is it running a custom os that's locked down. Because if it is its immediately junk
@@shawntame45 I adjusted the z babystep height when starting my first print, just to dial in the 1st layer. It looked like it would have worked without any intervention, but I tuned it up just because. I think it saved that setting, because the rest of my prints ran fine without any further adjustment.
i want to buy a magician x for christmas so a little mess than a month from now but im worried it wont have good build quality. When watching videos i always thought the creality looked more professional but i might be mistaken. are you facing any quality issues or printing issues? thank you.
I did not know that! I've printed on glass before without issue, if anything it has a harder time sticking. I've had major issues with printing PETG on sticker-based PEI sheets. PEI powder coated spring steel works best IMO but with bed adhesion things are always so variable.
Hello and congratulations for the simplicity and completeness of your videos. I also have the same under-extrusion problem as you, could you please send me the gcode they sent you? A thousand thanks
I'm planning to get one in a few days time. Based on lots of videos I have watched so far, it seems that this printer is suffering from the bed is way too sticky. But your video showed the opposite. Is there any special settings?
I thought it was super sticky, but in a good way! You might be able to use a pei spring steel sheet. That is a simple upgrade that helps a lot with getting parts of the build tray.
Great vid, but I don't know where you got the "pei is more prone to getting parts lose" thing from. Been printing on pei for few years now, on several different machines and I had 0 issues, where as with glass, I had.
Yeah, I think there is a difference between good glass and bad glass. On my last project, which I ended up not posting a video on, I had a lot of issues with parts coming loose on my PEI sheet, so it was fresh in my mind.
Prusa heated beds are much more consistent with temperature distribution, which helps a lot. I've had issues with both Prusa and Non-Prusa machines but it's definitely a bigger issue on non-prusa. It is especially bad when printing really thick parts, which I do a lot. 15% infill on 0.4mm nozzle you definitely have less problems.
Great review!
I love my ender 3 s1 dearly but this printer looks brilliant. I mean it does sound like A made in China R2-D2 but it seems like a really good midway between the ender 3 v2 and the S1
Yeah its good value. I had some issues with mine getting banged up in shipping, so I had to re-torque some screws. They recently switched from white styrofoam packaging to the more typical black spongy stuff that most other companies use, so hopefully that will protect the printers a little more. Also the z-axis was super-squeaky before I waxed it.
But its been on sale for $280 for a while now, which I think is a pretty good deal, $100 cheaper than the S1, and simpler to use - there's definitely a place in the market for the Magician.
I used lithium grease on my lead screws for a while. Despite being nowhere near my printer, my cats managed to absolutely cover those screws in cat hair. It's disgusting, but the lead screws have run smooth regardless.
Wax based lubricant is awesome. Its an emulsion of wax particles suspended in water, so you just dump it on the leadscrew nut and run the printer. It spreads around and gets into every crevice due to capillary action, then it dries and leaves behind a perfect thin layer. Should shed dust and cat hair too, but fuzzy leadscrews sound cool too.
@@NathanBuildsRobots This is too professional sounding. How about dissolving wax in gasoline and painting your lead screws with that so that it leaves behind a waxy residue. 🙃
@@MichaelWatersJ You're almost describing WD-40. only issue is gasoline/WD-40 is damaging to many plastics, so it could do more harm than good, unless using it on a full- metal assembly, like rusty scissors or a door hinge. On the Magician X the lead screw nuts are plastic instead of brass, so definitely had to go with a water-based immulsion
@@NathanBuildsRobots I forgot my /s. I've since moved to using 3-in-1 on my lead screws for my V-core 3.
@@NathanBuildsRobots how do you replace with all metal hotend? Do you know of anyone who has done it? Does migda have upgrade kit?
Can you share the gcode they sent you?
As nice as auto level is, it might not be a bad idea to have a way to manually level printers with it. That way, if for some reason the auto level fails, you can still manually level it and continue to use the printer.
True. But if the auto level mechanism fails you won't be able to home the Z-axis too, which would present some challenges!
Don't forget all marlin machines have this style of bed leveling if you choose to activate it. But it's known to be bad because it runs the risk of damage to your bed. The thing that kills me about this review is the fact you can't change the extruder offset that leads me to believe you can't change xyz either. Is this just because he wanted to keep the review as basic as possible or is it running a custom os that's locked down. Because if it is its immediately junk
@@shawntame45 I adjusted the z babystep height when starting my first print, just to dial in the 1st layer.
It looked like it would have worked without any intervention, but I tuned it up just because.
I think it saved that setting, because the rest of my prints ran fine without any further adjustment.
@@NathanBuildsRobots that's good thanks for the update!
My Magician X works really well, I love it so much
i want to buy a magician x for christmas so a little mess than a month from now but im worried it wont have good build quality. When watching videos i always thought the creality looked more professional but i might be mistaken. are you facing any quality issues or printing issues? thank you.
You should have said that you never print with PETG on glass, it will fuse and break the glass
I did not know that! I've printed on glass before without issue, if anything it has a harder time sticking. I've had major issues with printing PETG on sticker-based PEI sheets. PEI powder coated spring steel works best IMO but with bed adhesion things are always so variable.
tbh, pla adheres really good to the glass beds, but man, just tor to print abs, no print will stick. not even with a glue stick
I think they recommend hair spray, kapton tape, and a heated build chamber. ABS is toxic anyways so I don't mind not printing it.
Hello and congratulations for the simplicity and completeness of your videos. I also have the same under-extrusion problem as you, could you please send me the gcode they sent you? A thousand thanks
I left the text in the video description, and I may have provided a place to download it too
I'm planning to get one in a few days time. Based on lots of videos I have watched so far, it seems that this printer is suffering from the bed is way too sticky. But your video showed the opposite. Is there any special settings?
I thought it was super sticky, but in a good way! You might be able to use a pei spring steel sheet. That is a simple upgrade that helps a lot with getting parts of the build tray.
Great vid, but I don't know where you got the "pei is more prone to getting parts lose" thing from. Been printing on pei for few years now, on several different machines and I had 0 issues, where as with glass, I had.
Yeah, I think there is a difference between good glass and bad glass. On my last project, which I ended up not posting a video on, I had a lot of issues with parts coming loose on my PEI sheet, so it was fresh in my mind.
How do replace with all metal hot end?
I'm not sure. This printer uses some non-standard parts, which makes it more difficult to upgrade.
What’s the print volume?
This one is 230x230mm, but they have bigger ones, I think the biggest is 400x400
For printers with bed springs take a look at this method of setting the bed to an adjustable but fixed bed.
ruclips.net/video/73YfckglCIU/видео.html
I have a Prusa Mini and Mini + with the steel sheet, I have never had a print come off mid print. Maybe on cheaper machines this is an issue.
Prusa heated beds are much more consistent with temperature distribution, which helps a lot. I've had issues with both Prusa and Non-Prusa machines but it's definitely a bigger issue on non-prusa.
It is especially bad when printing really thick parts, which I do a lot. 15% infill on 0.4mm nozzle you definitely have less problems.