BMW 540i Timing Chain Tensioner Replacement e39
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- Опубликовано: 30 янв 2017
- This is a step by step video tutorial on how to replace the timing chain tensioner on an e39 BMW with the 4.4L M62TU V8 engine.
The process is similar for the e38 740, e53 X5 4.4i, and the 2002-2005 Range Rover as they share the same engine.
Tools you'll need:
10mm Socket
19mm Socket
Flat Head Screwdriver
Parts you'll need:
Timing Chain Tensioner Part Number: 11317531813
#bmw #e39 #timingchain #howto #diy 
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You should ALWAYS remove the fuel pump fuse and crank your engine a few times after the tensioner is fitted first to allow oil pressure to build up in the tensioner. Replace fuse then start as those noises you heard on this video is your timing chain slapping your guides and possibly wiping them out on start up, just a tip for all of you.
I should have read this before installing....Had a nice rattle on initial start after repair
Awesome thanks for the very in depth and fine detailed replies to the comments on your videos.
thank you
You're welcome! Glad we could help.
Note that you need a washer -sold separately part #- with the tensioner. In this video, the new tensioner installed did NOT have the washer. That is why the new cap did not fit in. You had to re-use the old cap, that had the washer stuck on to it...and it worked.
Thanks for your input. Some tensioners might not come with washers but the tensioner the owner provided to put into the car came with a washer. (Would not be the first time I've seen inconsistencies in BMW parts) Regardless, the washer should not affect the cap itself threading in or not. The washer doesn't make contact with the engine until the cap is almost completely threaded in.
You are right. When I replaced the tensioner on my car, the washer stayed stuck on the engine. So I re-used the old original BMW cap, like you did on your video, without another washer. And the cap of the new aftermarket tensioner did not look right anyway...!!
So hot TIP : Re-use the original BMW cap anyway..
TheChedley A so I need a new washer for this project? Is it a crush washer or something?
No, it is not a crush washer. Just a regular aluminum washer. It is included with the replacement tensioner BMW oem part when you buy it. When installed, it should prevent oil leaking from the tensioner cap.
I read somewhere that you are supposed to release the tension, or pop it out of compressed position before installing. I've also heard the complete opposite, that popping it out can make it hard to put in.
Which have you found to be true? I want to make sure I do this right. Timing stuff scares the hell out of me
HarryBungholio Either way should be fine. The tensioner uses the oil pressure in conjunction with the spring in the tensioner to put tension on the chain. As long as you get it in there with the correct torque it'll all work fine.
Correct. But it is definitely a bit harder to get in there when popped out or decompressed. Make sure you thread it in and torque it tight (to 40 NM for the torque addicts).
I have an 03 540 with 77k miles on it. I have not started it in a couple of days. When I started it today, there is a screeching noise that looks like it is coming from the front of the engine. Could that be my tensioner gone bad? I took a video of it, just don't know how I can upload it in here.
Sounds belt related to me. I would make sure everything is spinning as it should. Listen closely to the belt tensioners.
secondary air pump sounds like a jet engine if broken
Hi. I've just got my chain tensioner replaced on my E39 M5 (part number 11311406261). The new one was in open position when I installed it wasn't compressed but it was in working condition. It didn't help. Still getting noise from chain area. Decide to remove the chain tensioner to see if it got damaged and I couldn't compress. It was stuck like the old one in open position. it wouldn't move at all and only after a 30 min of struggle I was able to make it work. Any thoughts
Hello! It is important to remember that the tensioner is able to do its job thanks to the hydraulic force from the oil pressure. When you took the tensioner back out, it probably still had oil in it which made it difficult to compress. I would bet that the new tensioner is fine although if the supplier you got it from will replace it for free I'd say give it another go just to be sure. My best guess is, unfortunately, that you have a timing chain guide somewhere that has failed. I haven't personally had the opportunity to tear into an S62 but from my understanding it's very similar to the M62 from the 540i. The first thing I would do if I were you would be to take off the valve covers and peak down inside the timing covers to try to get a glimpse of the timing chain guides. If that doesn't give you a definitive answer, you could drain the oil and check for any metal flakes in the filter. If there's flakes, then a guide has failed and the chain is rubbing against the case. While the oil is drained, you could also drop the oil pan. If a guide has failed, the plastic bits of it will be sitting in the oil pan. If you go that route, make sure you order new gaskets! If all signs point to guide failure, you definitely want to stop driving it and get it fixed. If it was a 540, I'd just say drive it till it blows up and throw another $900 M62 engine in but with the S62 in the M5 it's worth the work to save the engine. I hope this helps!
Thank you so much. Will take the oil pan down and valve cover to check my guides.
Yes. tomorrow i'm getting new chain tensioner for free.
O, torque specifications... Bless you.
tighten till it strips then back off half a turn
Heh...
What brand tensioner do you like to use?
thanks
Hi Derrick, using anything other than Genuine BMW is playing with fire. When it comes to engine parts, you should only use Genuine BMW parts. You don't have to waste money at the dealership though, there are plenty websites who sell genuine BMW parts for less.
Thanks
glad I asked
You could use INA. It is a BMW oem.
Would it be a good idea to change this just to? I might purchase a 2003 540. Haven’t looked at it yet. 146k miles. If the timing chain is ok should I replace the tensioner just to?
SentinelFPS It would definitely be a good idea. It's a relatively cheap job and could save your timing chain and guides as long as they're in good shape to begin with. The reason so many of these cars have timing chain guide problems is because once the tensioner wears out, the chain flaps around and slaps against the guides. This causes them to be improperly lubricated and untimely they break apart from the beating. If I were you, I'd change the tensioner and the oil first thing when you buy it. When you change the oil, pay close attention to the filter. If there is even a single tiny piece of plastic guide or metal flakes in the filter, you'll have to pull the lower oil pan off and see if any guides have failed. 95% of the time you can hear loud and clear when a guide fails though. Hope this helps!
Yeah I'll message back and update you! Looking at it tomorrow. He's allowing me to take it to my personal mechanic for a full inspection. I will be listening to the slapping noise if it is there. If I do end up purchasing the vehicle, I will surely do that first! How often should I change the tensioner out? And by oil you mean regular engine oil?
Yeah, I was talking about engine oil. If your replace the tensioner with a genuine BMW part, there's no reason it would't last 100k miles. But seeing as the car you're looking at already has 146k, it'll probably outlast the engine. That said, if it makes it to 225k or so, then change it again. These V8s are great engines, but they have to be extremely well cared for to make it past 200k miles. Good luck! 540s are well worth the labor they require.
Ah thank you sir! Cheers