How'd you get the lower control arm back up? I'm using jackstands and floorjacks. I got the longer RC struts instead of spacers. Can't get the LCM back up.
I lowered the truck back down to put some weight on it if I remember correctly and then it was enough to get the nut started, if you do that be careful you can also use a ratchet straps maybe
2" level you think diff drop is required? Everyone seems to say not required until 2.5+. Neat to see a different way to drop strut... Most ppl drop lower ball joint bracket... Now I'm torn which way to do
I put mine in, however I am still skeptical because it only tilts the from diff, I also have not added the rear blocks I like the pre-runner look, also I need to upgrade rear shocks anyhow, I would try one shim first I put both of the shims in but probably should have just used one, it took 3 times to get it aligned because the first shop couldn't get the tie-rods loose then I took it to a Toyota dealership they aligned it but I was not happy, so took it to a different dealership and I'm pretty happy now!
Yes I believe I did, I had problems with one of the Toyota dealerships trying to align it, I took it to another dealership and they somehow got it done, however I really feel I should have only used the minimum spacers because it looked like the wheels were still slightly slanted and I never installed the blocks on the back because I liked the look, it had that pre-runner look
If you are referring to the strut spacer, yes it uses the top of the strut bolts, you then get new hardware for the top of the strut spacer that goes into the mounting bracket, as far as the actual lower strut bolt, you reuse that bolt, the top of the factory strut has bolts that the new spacer joins to, then the spacer is what you attach to the strut mount on the truck with new hardware and it all comes with it.
@@porterdoesthat6496 Appreciate the information, so the factory strut bolts that originally held the strut on top, are tighten up on the strut first, then the spacer on top followed by the provided hardware? The spacer does not sit directly Ron the strut top it sits on top of the original hardware?
No not really, I should have replaced the front struts and rear shocks before installing the kit but I just wanted to get it installed, the ride feels about the same!
Well then do it however, this was the easiest way for me! My stuff was rusted as heck, so I showed a way that worked for me, also I didn't have the newest GoPro that steadied the whole entire process, they also don't tell you that the Toyota Tundra's sway bar has bolts and nuts on the inside of the frame so if you take it off at that point, you have to take the entire bumper off to gain access to the hardware, however nothing is ever easy no matter which way, especially on my 2008 Toyota Tundra!
@@pspgamerserjio yeah and they do not tell you that, it sucks especially when you live in a salty winter place like Indiana and Toyota's rust quick, that is why some of them had a recall on the frame, I even sprayed like pb blaster on it for a week prior which maybe I mentioned but yeah it sucks if there is a next time I'm going to use the leveling struts!
@@porterdoesthat6496 lol mine came with no instructions at all and it was my first time doing it on this truck and I'm use to doing the 4 runners so that's why I dropped it from the bottom and not at the top like you did
@@pspgamerserjio yeah I had to do an F-150 like that either way is not fun bro, I feel your pain, if I was home more I would do a lot better with these videos, now I have like 5 gopro's multiple computers and hopefully these next few leveling kits I have for my new trucks go easier, godspeed!
this will put your upper ball joint in bad geometry better to get the kit with new tubed a arms and always get alignment because your tow in/out will be way out
Oh yeah, I had to align it twice, the second time it was good, it was by the Toyota dealership, however I did not use the rear blocks because I liked the way it looked, just not sure about some of the "plastic" type blocks that are used in kits nowadays.
@@porterdoesthat6496 no doubt i would just buy a metal block kit they are only 25 bucks my truck is identical would you use that kit again it is a good price
How'd you get the lower control arm back up? I'm using jackstands and floorjacks. I got the longer RC struts instead of spacers. Can't get the LCM back up.
I lowered the truck back down to put some weight on it if I remember correctly and then it was enough to get the nut started, if you do that be careful you can also use a ratchet straps maybe
2" level you think diff drop is required? Everyone seems to say not required until 2.5+. Neat to see a different way to drop strut... Most ppl drop lower ball joint bracket... Now I'm torn which way to do
I put mine in, however I am still skeptical because it only tilts the from diff, I also have not added the rear blocks I like the pre-runner look, also I need to upgrade rear shocks anyhow, I would try one shim first I put both of the shims in but probably should have just used one, it took 3 times to get it aligned because the first shop couldn't get the tie-rods loose then I took it to a Toyota dealership they aligned it but I was not happy, so took it to a different dealership and I'm pretty happy now!
Hi question did you install the two shim spacers on each side
Yes I believe I did, I had problems with one of the Toyota dealerships trying to align it, I took it to another dealership and they somehow got it done, however I really feel I should have only used the minimum spacers because it looked like the wheels were still slightly slanted and I never installed the blocks on the back because I liked the look, it had that pre-runner look
Did you have to use the OEM strut bolts, if so where were they used?
If you are referring to the strut spacer, yes it uses the top of the strut bolts, you then get new hardware for the top of the strut spacer that goes into the mounting bracket, as far as the actual lower strut bolt, you reuse that bolt, the top of the factory strut has bolts that the new spacer joins to, then the spacer is what you attach to the strut mount on the truck with new hardware and it all comes with it.
@@porterdoesthat6496
Appreciate the information, so the factory strut bolts that originally held the strut on top, are tighten up on the strut first, then the spacer on top followed by the provided hardware?
The spacer does not sit directly Ron the strut top it sits on top of the original hardware?
any noticeable difference in ride quality?
No not really, I should have replaced the front struts and rear shocks before installing the kit but I just wanted to get it installed, the ride feels about the same!
Of course there is ...you got that control arm in such as bind how could it even have any room to travel up and down
Bruhhhh I wish i looked this up sooner but nahhhhh I'm over here struggling because the guy said to take it off another way
Well then do it however, this was the easiest way for me! My stuff was rusted as heck, so I showed a way that worked for me, also I didn't have the newest GoPro that steadied the whole entire process, they also don't tell you that the Toyota Tundra's sway bar has bolts and nuts on the inside of the frame so if you take it off at that point, you have to take the entire bumper off to gain access to the hardware, however nothing is ever easy no matter which way, especially on my 2008 Toyota Tundra!
@@porterdoesthat6496 lol it took me like an hour to put the sway bar link back in
@@pspgamerserjio yeah and they do not tell you that, it sucks especially when you live in a salty winter place like Indiana and Toyota's rust quick, that is why some of them had a recall on the frame, I even sprayed like pb blaster on it for a week prior which maybe I mentioned but yeah it sucks if there is a next time I'm going to use the leveling struts!
@@porterdoesthat6496 lol mine came with no instructions at all and it was my first time doing it on this truck and I'm use to doing the 4 runners so that's why I dropped it from the bottom and not at the top like you did
@@pspgamerserjio yeah I had to do an F-150 like that either way is not fun bro, I feel your pain, if I was home more I would do a lot better with these videos, now I have like 5 gopro's multiple computers and hopefully these next few leveling kits I have for my new trucks go easier, godspeed!
It’s like the Blair witch cameraman.. Im getting motion sickness
this will put your upper ball joint in bad geometry better to get the kit with new tubed a arms and always get alignment because your tow in/out will be way out
Oh yeah, I had to align it twice, the second time it was good, it was by the Toyota dealership, however I did not use the rear blocks because I liked the way it looked, just not sure about some of the "plastic" type blocks that are used in kits nowadays.
@@porterdoesthat6496 no doubt i would just buy a metal block kit they are only 25 bucks my truck is identical would you use that kit again it is a good price
horrible camera work. i got dizzy just from watching
Yeah sorry, my buddy didn't do me justice that day with the camera, I may see if I can re-edit to get that fixed