What Adding BOOST Did Do To Our Motor Oil (NA vs BOOST Test)
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- Опубликовано: 22 июн 2024
- What does boost do to your oil? Let's visit @EFIUniversity1 to do some dyno testing and take some used oil samples for analysis. After our last visit to EFI University to do viscosity testing, this should be interesting to see what happens when we add some boost!
Using the @EnginePerformanceExpo ProCharged LS engine, we can compared the health of the oil and the wear in the engine both naturally aspirated and on boost. For more about this engine, check out: • Short Bock Engine Asse...
For more about Oil Analysis, check out: www.speediagnostix.com
Who is the @themotoroilgeek? I'm a Society of Tribologists and Lubrication Engineers Certified Lubrication Specialist and Oil Monitoring Analyst (I've maintained both of those for over a decade). I also worked for Joe Gibbs Racing for 12 years as their lubricant specialist. During that time, we worked with Wix Filters (one of our sponsors) to test and develop filters for our race engines. We also worked with Lubrizol and Chevron-Phillips Chemical to test and develop oils for our race cars. Following that, I was the head of R&D for Driven Racing Oil. During that time, I formulated and tested over 50 products. We also worked with Cummins, Comp Cams, Oak Ridge National Labs and General Motors on various R&D products. Those efforts are recorded in peer reviewed white papers published by SAE International and ACS Sustainable Chemistry journals. I also own and operate SPEEDiagnostix, which provides used oil analysis.
#Turbocharged #supercharged #boost #motoroil #engine 
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Lake, can you do a video on HOW the actual oil analysis is done?
Ok! We can do that!
That would be fun.
That'd be good!
@@themotoroilgeekRUclips is a small space for you, sir. Hats down!
That would be cool.
Because I only know enough to cause trouble.
Like the moisture test where they heat it and listen for the crackle pop of moisture.
Or they dip it in a cotton swab and heat it,or something...
See?
Enough to cause trouble 😂😂
Boost = more fuel and air = more boom (more burn from the mixture of fuel and air) = more pressure = more blow-by = more dilution. Makes perfect sense! Thanks Lake and the team!!!
It's not a boom it's a controlled burn. Boom would blow the cylinder head off or push the crank out the bottom
@h3xd3m0n9 You can argue it's both. Controlled expansion of higher temperature gasses that generate high pressures. That itself causes explosive level of noise. It's a burn and boom.
Of course you are right. Boost = more fuel and air = more burn from the mixture = more pressure = more blow-by = more dilution. Fixed it....
Now I have a better understanding of why the factory calls for Mobile 1 15W-50, for tracking my boosted C7 ZO6, instead of 0W-40.
Plus changing your oil every 3,000 miles vs 5,000 miles +
I run a 14,000# Mitsubishi Fuso box truck with a little 3L turbo diesel that frequently sees 24# of boost. I've cut the manufacturer's service intervals in half and change my oil and filter every 5,000 miles. So far she's running like a top at 80,000 miles.
make sure to include a fuel filter/fuel water separator filter every oil change as well.
Might as well include brake and PAS fluid in that too, and while you're at in renew the tyres when they're 20% worn.
@@Stoff1 im a diesel mechanic working on semis and box trucks. these engines are common rail running 2500-5000+psi fuel pressure. engines run anywhere from 10-17,500 miles between oil services and if you skip even one fuel filter swap you're at risk of that truck going into Derate/losing power over a FUEL FILTER. imagine someone towing their truck over that. it costs you in the present so it doesn't cost you in the future. you don't even want to know the cost to repair a damaged modern fuel system.
It would run the same at recommended change intervals...
Fascinating peek into the world of engine oil wear. Thank you.
Thank you!
I find your videos very educational. Keep them coming.
Thanks, will do!
Very interesting data. Keep the videos coming . Very educational.
Thanks, will do!
I’m becoming a motor oil geek too!! 😂
Awesome!
One of us
One of us
Could you do a video testing the 3 levels of Amsoil 5w-30?
The OE, XL, and Signature Series and how they compare to each other and other oils on the market.
amsoil is overpriced just run Pennzoil ultra platinum
@@duskycotw8404yeah we need a 0w40/5w40 comparison.
Penzzoil ultra, and shell Rotella/diesel and maybe even an exotic brand 0/5w40
When I tell people I've been a engine oil hobbyist/geek for 30+ years, they look at me with total confusion. They haven't got a clue what to say in return.
Thank you for helping me to feel less like an aberrant freak!
Haha you found your soul bro.
Too funny. I’m sure this means you’re an expert. At something.
@@georgeburns7251 I am an expert at several things... but oil isn't one of them. 😄
This was awesome.
Thanks!!
@@themotoroilgeek 💯💯
Exactly what I’ve been telling everyone that will listen. Sure I’m talking about daily driver GDI + Turbo. It’s nice to enlighten the internet plus lately I’ve been referring people to your channel and tell them this isn’t speculation, this is science.
Edit: Thank you Lake!
I want to know when the season finale is, when the oil geek finally reveals his thoughts on AMSOIL.
Can't wait.
Yes. Id love to see his Amsoil review. Also, testing the difference between OE, XL, and Signature Series
I’m waiting 2
LOL
Lake, if you owned the new Lexus LX, what exact oil would you run in Southwest Fl very easy mixed miles, and what frequency for the oil change? I did one at 500, one at 5k, one at 9k. They insist on 0w20. Great information.
@@themotoroilgeek a lot of people out there are using AMSOIL and going 10,000 - 20,000 miles between change. I am really looking forward as to what your thoughts are on it.
Thanks Lake, I love what you do on this channel. For me, this is one of your most helpful videos to date.
WOW, I really appreciate that!
I run 5-30 instead of 5-20 in my Toyota 2AZ-FE, per the Car Care Nut, Super Toyota Mechanic.
I'm doing that in my 4.6 Ford.... Now has 100k.
I had a 5w 20 engine and 5w 30 did better than 5w 20 but 0w 30 did the best.however On 0w 20 engines ONLY run 0w 20!
5w40 in my wrangler with the 3.8l V6. Runs like a champ.
@@hotrodray6802oil analysts would be a good idea. High viscosity can cause oil starvation to the cylinder heads on that engine! Especially on cold start.
This video, and the data you collected. Really confirms my suspicions about why my oil analysis looked so good considering the set up. I made a switch from 10w30 to 10w40. And it seems to be working well. And now it is clear why. Thank you lake.
Can you please do a video about the amount of wear on an engine that is pre-heated with coolant heater and/or oil pan heater?
I know about the common truth that most engine wear happens during startup and coming to the working temperature, but it would be nice to see the actual numbers in comparison.
Thanks for the insightful videos btw, you're awesome!
Love your Vids. Would would really like for you to have some content covering gear oil.
Great suggestion!
Thank you Lake!!
Excellent
Thank you
Just out of curiosity, I would like for you to do an oil sample prior to oil change, then add one of the popular OIL FLUSH products that supposed to clean your engine. Then, drain it like anyone else would, then add clean oil and filter, drive a little and do another oil sample to see what changed and if it degraded the new oil to a point that could be damaging to the engine.
Would have been nice if you told us about the clearances of the engine. Even if they were "secret", a vague statement like "piston to cylinder was about1 and a half times normal" and main and rod bearings were about twice"
Love your content thanks a million!
Me and the whole garage waiting for you to upload the engine flush video
Great video to show what boost does to our oil 💪
This is good information. Thanks for sharing, Lake!
Thanks for watching!
I love the content Lake, I just wish data of this quality was public knowledge 30 years ago!
Good info thanks for sharing
You have to take into account the bearing clearances too. You only want to go as heavy as possible in relation to the bearing clearances and operating temps. Running a thicker oil with factory main bearing clearances of say 2 thou could cause issue. I.e... Corvette 15w-50 on track days only. If you daily that oil you could end up with more wear as the oil temps run cooler. Will have to find the balance of viscosity vs. clearance and temps with the correct oil change interval. The tighter clearance could require thinner oil with more frequent changes.
Hi Lake!! Not sure if you've done it before, but could you produce a video showing the effects of of an oil with a viscosity that is too thick for the engine?
Maybe not enough viscosity, right amount, and a grade too high (5w20/5w30/5w40/etc)?
Great suggestion!
Brb, throwing some Straight 60 weight in my mom's 2022 0w20 Pentastar jeep and I'll let you know what happens 👍
@@snoofayy6150 😮
@@snoofayy6150are you serious or joking? I support heavier oils but a straight 60!
@@saad.485 joking mate lolol, that stuff probably pours out of the bottle like Molasses
Science is so much better than internet speculation! Thanks Lake!
just in time for me to watch at work, hell yeah
Why you working on Sunday bro?
Right on!
Same for me lol😅
another good one!
Thanks!
Mam am i glad you explain this , cuz i amnot smart enuf to break it down , but i understand the affects of boost and when i daily a forged boared over engine on 34psi , i change oil between 1-3k miles and thats full synthetic ..and peopke act like im crazy , but this is proof that im not crazy , well thats debatable tbh 😅. But i have been run my engine this way for over 3 years now and built it myself beside a shop boar the block ... and its still alive so i must not be to far off lol.. n e ways peace and love all, keep it rad, stay safe, and build on... l8r all and all hail lake the motor oil geek 🫅🏽🤓 🙌🏽 🤘🏽🤙🏽✌🏽
I’m glad I could help
Great video! Thanks
Glad you liked it!
I drove an '85 Volkswagen Scirocco for several years, and then added the available factory turbo kit in 1991. It added 6 pounds of boost, had no intercooler, and used the cold start enrichment system to add fuel. It worked well, when my mechanic got it tuned, but it had no flex pipe and kept breaking the header to exhaust manifold pipe. He finally welded it....
In any case, it was COVERED under the original VW Factory warranty, and while a dealer installed option, it was indeed a FACTORY option. From what I have learned, only 52 cars came with this system, which makes it an odd bird and certainly collectible since it was the first 1.8T.
Anyway, I drove it for a few more years and then bought a Corrado SLC, which was a whole other magnitude of performance. Oil changes on the turbocharged Scirocco? I noted nothing different in the oil, but then again I change my oil at 3000 miles or one year, so it usually came out translucent brown.
These days I drive a '14 Cayman S and use Driven DI 0W-40 oil. Since the car sees about 2000 miles per year, it gets yearly oil changes, and again....The oil is just slightly brown.
Great video!
I hope you shower regularly too.
@@georgeburns7251 1. When I get out of bed.
2. After my daily run.
3. After my daily yard work.
4. If I haven't had #2 or #3 above then just before bed.
Now; Would you like me to detail how I put the toothpaste on my brush? Perhaps you want to know how I wipe my ass?
::cough cough:: Have a nice day~!
🖕
Lake, testing the oil on and off boost would be an interesting experiment for a street engine like an Ecoboost. For instance, towing a trailer would make the engine run higher boost continuously.
Thanks we’ll done
Those are some serious Headers! 😊
Beautiful
Great info
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome video and learning experience. What oil/viscosity would you recommend in that engine?
Thanks for stirring the brain this morning, always love the content. I know some people who boil out the methanol and reuse their oil on boosted methanol drag engines. I assume by this analysis that this is probably not the best idea?
The viscosity should recover once the methanol is boiled off, but it would still be worth doing oil analysis on new, before boil-off, and after boil-off samples to know for sure.
I found this informative
Thanks!
It's "amazing" (not sure if it the right word)
The difference engine temperature makes to oil and contamination. Personal experience living in Canada, My daily driver, 2017 gmc sierra with a v6 has some very minor upgrades. Exhaust, intake, tune and an oil catch can. In the summer months, the can collects about 2-3 oz of oil and gunk over the span of one oil change. 6 months and 6-8000kms of 20 minute commutes, errands and maybe 6-10 weekend camping trips (1-3 hour drives) towing a 6500lb trailer. BUT, in the winter my driving is entirely just commuting and running errands. In about a month that can will fill with about 5-6 oz of mostly water and only trace amounts of oil "scum". I've even had it freeze up once and it ruined the baffles in my old can trying to empty it. But the unknown factor is the fuel makeup. There are different blends for summer and winter gasoline which affects emissions and combustion. So how much is caused by cold oil/engine vs fuel quality. I've also heard that e85 is hard on oil as well. I'll go out on a limb and assume it's probably a similar result to what I'm already seeing in winter but year round regardless. (I can't get E85 here to test that)
E10 sux but I just filled up and non ethanol is 85 cents higher. That's 28%. 😮
Regular is 3.98 here and ethanol free is 6.00
Another great video that leads to a question. Obviously supercharger and turbocharger boost are different but do they affect oil in similar ways? Thanks and really looking forward to the video about how oil is tested.
Lake, I think most of us now have a general understanding of how the second value (W20, W30, W40) impacts wear.
But what about the first value (0W, 5W, 10W)?
Please do a comparison of these on the same (or as close as possible) hot viscosity values, but only alternating the cold values.
I find it crazy that Toyota calls for 0w20 in a twin turbo V6 in the new Tundras!
Pressure from government environmental regulations. If you look at other parts of the world, 5w30 is recommended for the very same engine.
@@danfontes9130 Probably why those engines are having bearing problems with too thin of oil in them, all in the name of fuel economy pressured by the government like you said.
@brianpennington2018 From what I have heard the failures are due to production flash having been left in the engines from manufacturing.
nothing is built to last anymore, the are all warranty cars. once thats up you might as well get another car
@@brianpennington2018 100%
Welcome to the new Level. Weve been trying to tell people for years. We change oil every 1500 highway miles and 500 if we are severely abuse/racing. Transmission oil every 10000
23 years with the same Ram.
Lake I love the education you have been giving me. I've totally changed my process of my thinking. Can you please do something on Small engines like a Briggs or Kohlor Vtwin and single cylinder motor
I absolutely know boost can mess oil up, obviously. But my shock was motor oil type/formulation definitely matters. Check your oil. 20 years ago penzoil platinum in a wrx stock boost had tons of fuel in the oil. Other oils in that same car/motor next oil change didn't. But that's not the same today. Check yours. That particular oil in that particular engine had 2-3% fuel and other oils it was less than 0.5% or something like that. I don't remember the exact results. But that one oil had lots of metal particles in the oil analysis too. It would have ate that motor fast if i didn't check. I wish i checked my oil in my truck, extended oil changes damaged my valve train on cold startup. It still runs ok but extended is no-bueno as you have explained the why. Love your discussion. A co-worker bought a brand new jeep. I'm hoping he follows some of your tips. Early first oil change. Fuel additives with no extend changes. I bet i can last a long time. Oh and my tundra is at 210k and runs great except flooring it, the variable valve timing or something squeals pretty bad. It burns/looses only a bit of oil at 4k changes.
When I was a teenager I was watching them change the oil on a TF Harley engine after a run. The consistency of the oil was similar to water.
I often smell gasoline in the oil of boosted engines and I've found tin levels drop once the babit is wiped off the bearings.
Very interesting about the water content and temperature! See a lot of guys running classic cars that get scared if the engine gets much over like 150-160-170 degrees. My feeling is they'd be better off running hotter, to get rid of the water. Your thoughts?
Water temp does not directly correspond to oil temp. Unless you use a huge oil/water heat exchanger as used on non total loss marine systems
I remember my father telling me if start the engine warm it up. There’s condensation from sitting. Don’t take a short trip to get and expect your engine to like it.
@@oldgringo66 A very smart man
A fair few modern cars actually have oil to water heat exchangers. Mine has one built into the filter housing. Good for quick warmup, which the OEMs want real bad for emissions reasons (modern cars often make most of their toxic emissions during the warmup period). But also helps durability.
Please take on the "King" of Boutique oils..... you know the first in synthetics.... since 1972!
He's already done a video about that.
Greetings from Greece,
I see all your videos with great enthusiasm and really I start understanding many things about oil’s.
Keep going A+++
Can you please explain me because I confuse and hesitate a bit after your comment “run the right viscosity in your engine”
I run a CBR 1000 RR 2022 model and Honda is the only motorcycle company that switch to 10W-30 from the other manufacturers.
I run it right now with remap ECU (more fuel), should I increase to 10W-40 ?
I misunderstood the Fuel dilution thing (sorry for my English not my main language)
Also can you explain how you get the Hp from the engine, without to be on a dyno (inside a car) ?
Future video you should do is what plays with HTHS in oils and how same viscosity oils work differently with different HTHS.
Interesting data as always, Lake. The Total Seal gas ported, gapless piston rings in this engine must be of excellent quality. The chromium content from the rings stayed at 1 ppm for ALL of the tests. The rings were the only component listed that did so well and considering the number of piston/ring failures so common to boost extremes, your analysis results are very impressive !
By the way, wouldn’t “ENGINE” OIL GEEK be a more technically correct term ? I won’t insult your exceptionally high intellect by explaining why. Keep up the excellent work 🏁.
I’ll stand by to get slaughtered but Lake is a child of NASCAR and all those “good ole boys” engine geniuses always say motor not engine. Listen to the sound, it’s the South. Motor sounds friendly. Engine sounds like Werner Von Braun. NASCAR vs Nurburgring.
Thanks, and great observation!
@@themotoroilgeek My pleasure Lake. I enjoy commenting on useful information and valuable experience such as you provide 🇺🇸🏁
@@Dggb2345 No need to go into detail. As a Georgia boy of 70 years, I truly understand 🇺🇸🏁
Awesome video Lake, what is your advice for oil change intervals?
I'm planning on running 0w20 PUP in a 2019 infiniti qx60
****Valvoline Update****
Cool vid lake,have you heard of uniglide friction treatment.peace
How about a motor oil tournament using that engine as the test unit? All the big names & same viscosity. Some guys swear by Amsoil & others swear by Supertech. And any updates on the Valvoline restore? Thanks Lake.
Over here in the UK, many weekend warriors are using Gibbs HR1 in historic events, XP 6 and 9 seems popular with the more modern machinery runners. An alternative is a British brand called Millers as a 10 w60. For vintage machines still using white metal bearings the still seems to be nothing available that is better than the old Castrol R30 or 40, you just need to change it way more often.
Great suggestion!
I'd always run blue bottle oil and changed it more often. Project Farm found it as good as most.
I'm a Mobil 1 fan. I'm not willing to spend almost twice as much $ for Pennzoil Natural Gas oil.
@hotrodray6802 pennzoil is usually cheaper where I'm at. It goes on sale frequently and they usually have a rebate/rewards offer too. Mobil1 is usually cheaper when not on sale. But pennzoil is on sale so frequently that I just plan ahead.
Think about what you just said. Pennzoil goes on sale frequently, but Mobil one doesn't? Why is that, it's on sale frequently?
Like to see what RevX does or Bestline/Brahma lube. Definitely worth testing RevX since it is recommended by Steve Morris.
Check his oil additive video.
He did test a whole bunch of additives like RevX in a previous video. How much does RevX pay Steve to endorse their products?
@@AquaticLogic
Nothing
Just remember those are tortured race engines not daily drivers and not built the same way as normal street engines either. Different ball game altogether. Just saying
Great video. How does this information pertain to a modern, daily driven, turbo charged engine?
I have a 2018 Cadillac CT6 3.0TT. I am genuinely concerned weather I should be using DexOS from the dealer or something else. I don't run my car hard by any means but I do like the kick in the pants of boost from time to time.
Do you have any recommendation for 2 stroke oils?
I have a bunch i plan to test but have to put together some testing equipment first
can you "dip" inot differential oils/ATF oils? would be interested to know if different brands/additives make a difference
Hey Lake, whats your thoughts on liquimoly ceratec? Project farm tested it and found it to help, do you think it was more a factor that the tested oil just wasnt good enough?
We also need a turbo comparison
Thank you Mr. Speed. I would like to see a deep-dive on oil and hybrid engines. Do they suffer more from fuel dilution and water in the oil? Should you service a hybrid by miles or by hours?
Excellent info. Was wondering if it was affecting the oil the same way Ethanol fuel does. Running from E30 to E70 with %40 bigger injectors, more advance timing and %30 more boost. Still on 5w-30, but change oil at 3K. Unfortunately, 10W-30 holds too much calcium and on a DI, not ready to take the risk. THANK YOU.
With increased boost and bigger injectors ethanol can really do a number on your oil (especially if the engine is port injected - cold start dumps a lot of ethanol). I went from 5w-30 factory to 5w-50 on my CTSV after I bumped the hp up by about 300 over stock with ethanol and more boost. Still has good oil pressure, minimal consumption and great power output after 80k miles on the corn. But you can smell ethanol in the oil after 3000 miles.
There is a strong movement lately to use low viscosity in heavy duty diesels. the ones that go 22 bar BMEP. I think they are doing it only to pass the EPA certification. Most diesel operators use their trusted 15w40. Hope you are back from vacation so we can chat.
The lower viscosity grades are strictly for fuel economy.
@@themotoroilgeek I have an SAE paper from 2013 by Ricardo that investigates the wear of using 0w20 (or something of that sort) on a heavy duty engine. They measure FMEP and wear metals. They are trying to push the conclusion that the harm on the engine is small, yet some fuel economy takes place. I don't buy it. I think it is strictly a way to claim better fuel economy for low loads by sacrificing the life of the engine.
@@themotoroilgeekso what viscosity oil should we be running in modern gasoline turbo cars? I understand for warranty reasons we should use the said weight stated by the manufacturer, but after that… I have a Chevy 2.7 turbo that calls for 5w30 and now I’m considering using 10w30 instead. I live in Minnesota so it can get pretty cold here. Would you recommend a change to 10w30 or an even higher weight?
@@CodenameK52 I'm from N minneota as well. Premium 10W30 100% synthetics have a very nice low pour point as well. I have a friend with a 2.7 turbo and he's been running 5W30 premium synthetic in it since the first oil change. It's been working great, but getting some fuel dilution in the wintertime and taking a little oil but not drastic as of yet. He is racking on the miles so we will see, but he may try 10W30 at some point if the oil consumption increases much more. I have two old two valve Tritons that have in excess of a quarter mill miles on both. I've been running 10W30 premium synthetic year around in them because of the high miles and they start and get oil pressure immediately even below zero. They hardly consume any oil either. Ford originally called for 5W30 in them but they now recommend everything older to 5W20, except for Ecoboost turbos are 5W30.
I have a turbo Fiesta ST and the recommended oil is 5w20. After seeing this I think I'm changing to 5w30
So this is really only relevant with a heavily custom engine with tons of boost and not for a road-going engine that 99% of people might have?
Fascinating video as always! Wondering if I should switch to a 5W-30 for my GR Corolla instead of the 0W-20 factory oil. It's a modern engine and likely has tight tolerances, but 25 PSI of stock boost and track conditions may warrant a switch.
Yeah I think that would help a lot man and changing the oil more often 2-3k and immediately after a track day 😎👍🏽
5w-30 all day long for that motor. It’s a higher stressed 3 cylinder engine. 3,000 miles oil and filter change as well.
I have a 22 WRX with some mods and a custom tune. It pushes about 20 lbs of boost on the 93 octane tune. Calls for 0w-20 and I have used 5w-30 from the first oil change forward.
thanks Lake! is there such thing as a "break in" period for additive packages?
There are so many choices out there for motor oils My question is what is the best motor oil to run in my 2020 GMC 5.3 l? Obviously I want to run the recommended weight etc but I'm talking brandwise type of motor oil with no additives what is your recommended best brand? Thank you in advance I love your videos keep them coming please . Also curious on your recommended filter choice also as to not under filter or over filter my oil?
Believe or not I but in my 5.3 20w50-10w40 and it lasted about 300k miles and lifters gone bad (known for the 5.3ls) but the engine is in good condition with the hot weather around 115f but I see the most important part is changing oil is the most effective I do it ever 2500-3000miles sens I bought it
You should graph cylinder pressure vs wear and see if there is a consistent correlation. Also as an engine cools the air inside the crank case goes from taking up X volume to less. This "sucks in air with moisture." Then not getting the oil to a hot enough temp leaves it in the oil and ultimately in your sample.
I like the idea of lining up cylinder pressure and wear!
I've got a 99 Nissan frontier with 2.4 that I bought new.calls for 5w30 I've always used 10w30. Extremely hard miles, always loaded, stop and go service work, SC heat 280,000 miles, runs like a top,uses no oil.ive always used wix filters and conventional Castrol oil.starting to get some light varnish, I'm about to use some 15w40 shell Rotella conventional. Same truck and engine, manufacturer recommends 15w40 in Mexico.
Excellent video Lake!! 👍👍
I was think pressure and heat damage to the oil. Not fuel dilution or water content.
Cool research.
It's SCIENCE!! 🧐🤯
Wait Wait...or is that CHEMISTRY?🤔
LOL 😁
Thanks 👍
I understand in a race engine the need for higher viscosity. However, I wonder how much of this applies to a typical street engine. My Chevy Equinox is turbocharged yet calls for 0W20 oil. I have wondered if, particularly in the summer, it would be wise to up that to 5W30 or so even though that isn’t what Chevy recommends. I don’t run the car all that hard, but do a fair bit of interstate cruising at 70 MPH in weather above 80º F. Thoughts?
This is why all these new cars running 0-20 oil in an Eco boost engine don’t last. New cars with direct injection, turbos, and thin oil don’t last near as long as a conventional N/A motor.
Definitely a contributing factor. Making adjustments accordingly
Not all new GDI Turbo cars run 0-20. Mine calls for 5w-40.
@@Japplesnap it must be European?
@@oneninerniner3427 Yup. Audi.
Lake, would you do a video about using diesel oil in a gasoline engine? I’ve seen lots of guys putting Shell 5W-40 diesel oil in their LS engines and it’s blowing my mind that someone would think that’s better than a properly designed full synthetic gasoline oil! A video explaining the potential damage would be highly educational. Thank you!
Hi Sir, do we need to "flush" engine oil from factory EO (it might be semi syntetic) to fully syntetic after break-in engine?
Amazing work and love what you do. Asking again, test BG PRODUCTS! Has to be to most used additives in the market for STEALERSHIPS and shops..BG44K, CF5, EPR, and the famous MOA!
BG 44K is an excellent fuel additive. Has a great amount of PEA. The SDS is available and it details the chemical composition.
I been using the Famous MOA in our 2018 FORD EDGE NON Turbo V6. Based on this Channel, and Lake's testing, I'am inclined to STOP using it ASAP due to IT (the MOA) Changing the Oil's Composition and "CAUSING WEAR" unnecessarily ???? Hmmmmmm???
@@kendavis1198yeah. 44k is “great”, why haven’t there been any testing like Lake does on BG products? I’ve used them for many years, it’s funny how many STEALERSHIPS “perform” the BG service, and then the cans are in the mechanics toolbox and they take home for themselves.
It seems out of every single thing we can buy from AUTOPARTS stores snake oils, to redline fuel system cleaner, to BG products…BG seems to be the only ones who do their “testing” on the MOA for example.
@@kendavis1198I agree. Scary, I USED to love the CERATEC from Liqui Moly, German, decent oil… Lake is exposing everyone and I love every video he creates
Hey Lake, can I ask why OEMs put thinner oils in your engine if oil analysis says 5W30 is better in every way? Seeing my oil analysis on my 2024 GR Corolla. It seems to like 5W30 more the 0W20 even though it calls for 0W20 from factory. Now with 6 oil changes and switching between 5W30 and 0W20. 5W30 showed the wear metal dropped by double. Also to make sure my engine wasn't just finishing breaking in I switched back to 0W20 and the wear metal went back up. Also, oil pressure stayed the almost the same for the 5W30 for some reason.
Fuel economy is the primary reason for lower viscosity oils.
If us 3.5 ecoboost owners stepped up to a high viscosity cold and warm level would the only downside be mpg? What should we do about oil falling off the top of the engine for tow rigs that sit around for a week or more? Ive been doing the no ignition start cycle since i began hearing the phaser stick on startup.
So how would this translate to something like my 2.3 ecoboost? Ford says to use 5w30 in it for the ranger. Should I go up to a 5w40?
My Cummins is compound turboed and I’m at 70psi. Towing I’ve had my EGT’s holding 1500. All diesel oil is basically 15-40. Is there anything I can do to help engine in this case? Currently running Rotella T6
What are your thoughts on magnetic oil drain plugs to catch ferrous material in a turbo charged engine?
Any chance you could do a comparison of 2 stroke oils like the synthetic oils like Bel-Ray makes and castor bean oils like the ones made by Blendzall. Also could you do a video on oils for air cooled V twins. Thanks I really enjoy your videos and find the very informative
Great suggestion!
Do you think the positive water from high boost could be from head lift and cooling water contamination?
Lake I Love these kind of videos and I get the application! The problem with information like this is people don’t get that this is a RACE BUILT PUSHROD ENGINE THAT IN PREVIOUS VIDEO WAS STATED THAT IT IS A LOOSE BUILT DRAG RACE ENGINE!! Sir you need to over stress that because I’ve read the comments on this and the couple previously posted videos and the issue is that every Tom Dick and Dumbass is going to say!!! My 2.0 My 3.0 My 4.0 Turbo or Supercharged Factory car says to put a 0w-20 0w-30 0w-whatever in it is now going to say!! But I drive my car really hard and I think I need a 50W-180 because what the Factory recommends is way to thin!! Please specify that this in not the average factory spec engine and in no way shape or form should a consumer change what their factory clearance low viscosity stock or even modified (Stock FACTORY Clearance) engine need to live a long happy life! Cause I have had two modded turbo BMW’s that when traded in had 205,000 and the other had 185,000 miles on them ran 5w-30 the factory spec oil! I also had two different NA converted Supercharged daily driven cars logging over 250,000 miles between the two and still always ran the factory NA specked oil! SO PEOPLE RUN WHAT YOUR FACTORY RECOMMENDS!!!
I like your testing of car engine oils. But why will you not test the Amsoil oil products ?
This was a great comparison. Carb vs. port injection vs. direct injection?
Great suggestion!
This is the literal eco boost million dollar question. Ford will pay you NOT to do that test even though we already know the answer from a hazillion utube engine eco boost tear downs.
so I saw your video on how to break in a engine properly and you said to use a slightly thinner motor oil than the factory viscosity. So is it okay on a boosted engine to use a 5w30 break in motor oil when the engine usually recalls for 5w40 ?
I'd guess that this also means keeping the fuel injectors clean and functioning properly for good atomization is that much more important on a turbo/super-charged engine.
I've mentioned this before, but could you make a video comparing high-quality oils (Pennzoil Ultra Platinum/Amsoil Signature Series) with high-quality "Euro"-spec oils, and what the effect might be on a car to use either in place of the other? I'm also wondering about that Valvoline Restore & Protect oil you recently looked at; it's something I'd love to try, but it's not normally recommended for my "euro" car.
I think that most people miss the fact that the head of the pistons are hot. The valve springs are HOT. Continuous running builds way way more heat than a few dyno pulls. Ill bet that OIL cools more BTUs than the radiator.
Oil has a tough job.
Before my car hit 100k I jumped to 5-30. Now that its 70 at night and 95 in the day, Im thinking 10-30 or 10-40.
On a different level, my work vehicle is a 2023 Hyndai, non turbo, the manufacturer calls for 0W-20, intervals of 7500 miles for oil changes. I cant bring myself to run oil that long, i checked it at 5k and it smelled of gasoline and was even thinner that i thought possible. Ive watched the videos on your daughters new toyota, and new oils like the 0w's. The oil level was also about 2 qts over full.
Sorry, forgot to make some type of point😂 im not continuing services with dealer (as previous company operator did) and im switching it to 5/30, if the car goes down, im back to driving my own car, and i want to save my cars miles for my use
Oooo that's bad! two quarts is a lot! You should probably have that thing checked out, it could have a bad injector or something.
So how would tight tolerance engines run with low viscosity? More pressure? And how does the oil requirements differ between the crank and cam? If an engine with separate oil systems for cam and crank is built how would the oil properties differ?
Have you tested crankcase ventilation.
Vent to atmosphere or out exhaust.
Recycle through intake
Catch can between crankcase and intake.
Will this affect oil life?
Lake, seeing that you took your sample while resting your arm on the header, wouldn’t letting the particulate have a chance to settle affect the results?
We took the samples at the same time interval after shutting down the engine so that particulate settling would not affect the results.