The Flow Formula - Episode 1: Simplifying Moves
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- Опубликовано: 29 июн 2024
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In climbing, “flow” is a magical word that describes an ease of movement. A person in flow climbs naturally up the wall with no wasted effort. But how does one achieve this mystic state? Does it depend more on strength, technique, or just good beta?
The Flow Formula is a series that explores some of the key components for developing flow in your climbing. This first episode focuses on simplifying movement.
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Such a good video! Everything is to the point, no wasted time. You exhibit the principle of flow in your videos as well! Well deserved subs!
While moving up in grade is also cool and exciting, I realized I really enjoy just climbing in a state of flow. I wish that the gym I go to has a wall like yours 😅.
You are a really good teacher by the way :)
after trying this at the gym, this has been the single most helpful video . I have watched on climbing to date. I can't thank you enough
Man, your videos are unreal. No wonder your channel is growing so fast. I’ve watched climbing videos since I start climbing 2 years ago, and I could’ve used this type of articulation when I started, and also now being a more intermediate climber. Thanks for what you do!
Your voice is so calming!
The Bob Ross of climbing.
Love your videos! They’re informative and so calming. I Can Watch this and go to sleep, and I mean it as a compliment!!
Raw beginner here. LOVE your videos. Notice that experienced climbers shift their COG into their newly established base of support - faster and more precisely. Imagine this comes from both study and experience. I realize that static moves, I "double" the number of moves by literally jerking my hips into place after finding the holds. Then for dynamic moves, I don't swing my COG with enough commitment and control outside my BOS in order to gain enough momentum. So excited for these things to get better with deliberate practice (and observation!)!
Would love to see your outdoor climbing too!
Yes! Been waiting for your videos! 👍🏼
Without doubt, your videos are my favourite on RUclips - and I must watch around 5-10 hours a week. Useful, thoughtful, and inspiring
Great video for intermediate climbers like myself, RUclips is flooded with beginner tips so grateful to see something more substantive for people like me.
Just starting out with bouldering and your videos have been a constant go-to to help me get the most out of my climbing, great job and thank you!
Great job dude! Glad the channel is growing
I'm 4 months into my climbing journey, watched your videos along the way. Helped me out a ton man thanks
Hey man, your videos are a god send! I’m a climber just starting out, and these are an absolute gold mine of information, thank you!
Excellent stuff. Definitely going to try that.
Such a wonderful video, thank you so much for explaining the technique and how to improve!
Thank you so much for this content! Im very much in need of some basics info, your teaching style and cadence is wonderful. Please keep going!
Once again: Awesome and helpful content. Thanks a lot!
Great content as always! Thanks!
I’ve been working on a V3 problem for a few sessions now, this video made something click in my head and I finished it.
I completely loved your video!
It is so relaxing to watch these videos, thank you for sharing your knowledge 🙏
Love the side by side comparison! It looks just like the difference between my friend and I. This video is definitely going to help me climb better!
Super helpful to see how you analyze a route, I'd never considered that checkpoint hold idea, I'll definitely try that next time! Keep up the good work, this stuff is super helpful!
Great video. Looking forward to part 2
Thank you so much for all the hard work that goes into making these amazing videos.
Great videos brother. I’ve recently started Bouldering in addition to Martial Arts. Really enjoying the new challenge. Keep up the good work...Sam😊🤙
Really helpful, keep up the good work!
Your videos are really good! Your explanation are easy to understand! I am learning a lot! Thanks!
Excellent! Thank you!
You are so good at climbing and teaching! Wow!
I often do the cross(on slabs) and I was actually wondering if this was an efficient way! thanks for covering it, now I know to use it more and on overhangs too!
This was excellent, just what I have been looking for to improve my climbing technique, I'm looking forward for the next episodes. Will you also include lead climbing content in your channel?
love the cross moves, they look as it is a pretty dance!
awesome video! thanks
That was SUPER helpful. Love the way you break it all down !!
Thanks so much!!
love your content dude !
I understand It would have made the video less clear and the focus was on teaching a specific move but I think there are at least 2 moves in the problems you filmed where matching the previous hold would have been more energy efficient.
Great stuff as always!
This is so good..
I'm not sure where I heard or saw this but I thought crossing hands and steeping thru with the feet witch I just thought was crossing with the feet to be improper technique, I'm happy I found this video and very excited to go climbing soon thanks
I certainly wouldn't teach it in the beginning as it can easily put you off balance. However, once you understand your body better and have a good foundation of climbing technique it's time to start breaking the rules :-)
Quality content!
Greatly appreciate these videos and the way you present them. Very concise and the comparison helps out significantly. For a next video idea could you show the stretches you use for mobility and flexibility?
Nice video!
Can't wait to hit the gym and try this technique! Thanks for the super well explained vid
Great explanations of basic climbing technique, although how they are implemented in the first example makes the climb very inefficient. The feet setup for the cross push away from the intended line of movement, fighting the pulling of the arms. 4:07, 4:18, 4:35 this is very inefficient because you are not using your legs but instead relying on doing a one arm pull-through. Matching hands and feet are important, and less moves or time spent on a wall isn’t always more efficient. The first example I would say probably has better economy of movement. Just food for though, other then that great video.
A good point. Sometimes "flow" is achieved only because a climber is way stronger than the grade and they can make fancy looking moves by deleting entire setup moves, increasing the ranges involved, usually putting tons of additional pressure on the hands.
A great video that makes me rethink on how to climb more efficiently. From what i see,your shoulder muscles were activated each time you want to move over to the next hold. This would mean that in order to do your method effectively,i would need to have a good degree of strength in order to have a good flow so that I don’t panic and rush to reach my target?
when you climb way under your max grad you can do this stylish stuff. crossing over it not always useful and energy efficient,but in some cases it works realy well. rushing stuff is quite okay when you lag the endurence but you know like every move, because you dropped of so often on a project.
Nice video :)
Do you find your gym is set soft? That last V6 seemed to have quite a few good/GREAT holds. Perhaps it's just the height of the wall makes these into almost mini routes, but even what I'm used to for a 5.12 b/c would be considerably harder than this problem.
Yes, that black V6 was particularly soft. I can't remember any actual V6 moves on there, but it did give some folks trouble as it was like three V4s stacked together. The bottom was quite good for demoing the flow concept so I included it. I will say that our setters have recently stepped up their game and are setting harder moderates again :-)
nice video,
U totally should have played the clip of your outdoor send at the end
Love it! Would like to give you more than one like!! :D
How tall are the walls?
I believe the highest ones top out at 20 ft.
🤙🏼
Welcome dude
Interesting take and topic but I agree with others here that the example given wasn't great. Climbing that red with crosses made the problem a whole grade harder
gj
You should get paid to narrated HeadSpace sessions mate!
Turning gay for your voice
Overall a good video but i disliked your argument on waste reduction in regards to climbing and production lines. "waste" (what do you actually mean by that in regards to climbing?) or just in neutral terms resource is one component to look at when trying to optimize systems. For most of them it is beneficial to reduce energy (resource) consumption to be more efficient but leaving out holds in a boulder is not neccesarily the way to go. Being most efficient in climbing depends on so many factors which aren't even really comparable between different climbers so to break it down in such a nonsense word like "waste" is just not giving the subject enough credit imo.
Maximizing efficiency IS to reduce the energy spent for the same result. One could add in a risk and a sustainability factor if we want to be picky, but IMO that's it.
When on the wall, putting aside the mental game, climbing with flow MEANS transforming the previous movements into the next one instead of getting in a static state. Flow is very useful because when you get static, often the case when matching, there are 3 important downsides:
1. More time on the wall
2. Need to slow down to the static state after the last movement
3. Need to increase back the momentum for the following move
For sure slowing down is important in cases of:
1. precision
2. hard to control core positions
3. gaining back energy from resting, even if actively
But for the problems of this video, big positive holds, with an good margin of strength left when he tops them, climbing faster and skiping holds seems definitely more efficient and not doing so a waste of energy.
Would you really expect Ondra to climb it slower or in more moves?
Me neither