Man I’m doing this on my back in a garage and that’s why it’s taking me forever to get these bolts off only one I can’t get in the back left side I got all the other ones out easy but this side back one is kicking my ass! Hopefully I can get some progress tonight!
great job, I'll be waiting till you show how to change timing belt and oil pump on a 2001 acura 3.2 tl. I got a quote from dealership, I was going to let them do it, but when I asked to change crank sensor while they were in there, they wanted to charge an extra 450 plus part, I said no way. I'll be waiting and watching, keep up the good work and thanks for sharing your wealth of automotive knowledge with us
Thanks for going into detail on this job. Worst part of this job is keeping all those different bolts in order. Your a master at this and it's been fun watching you work. Thanks Brian !
I did get my oil pump out without taking the sprocket off. I took the 3 bolts out, wedged the tensioner down and pulled down on the pickup tube and wiggled it down and to the right and the chain came right off. Just thought I'd throw that out there. Nice instructional video!!!
Decent mechanics , only down fall to much sealant on sump when that squishes out there will be a lot of sealant overhang , the worry is that a lot of sealant over hanging inside the engine , can and will block up the oil pick up and can eventually if not noticed off kill the engine
Hi there, thanks for the more helpful and interesting video. I have a problem with my 1.8T APU engine Audi A4 , when i start the car there is no problem until i rev to 2000 to 2500 rpm ,the oil pressure warning light start to flash , What can be the problem?
Hi,great video,can you tell me is there no gasket between the oil pump output gallery where it’s bolted to the cylinder block please. I’m going to be putting new oil pump on Passat 18t very soon. Many thanks
I just tried to check my oil pick up today but realized I don’t have the necessary tools to do it, i was told y oil light would come on from a clogged pick up, I always do regular oil changes and just did one 1000 miles ago, I didn’t see any particles coming out when i drained the oil just now and the light hasn’t come on since, do you still think a clogged pick up could be an issue? Or is it more likely a sensor?
Hey brian Working Hands Automotive here awesome video bro took me 2hrs to do but I got it done WOW if I haven't done the jobs you make vids on for some reason after I see your vids I end up doing the same job lol that's crazy
Thank you, Brian- I was about to rip all my hair out trying to remove the pump WITHOUT removing the sprocket! Impossible! I saw the tensioner and assumed the chain would just slip off - NOT the case! The sprocket looked press fit on the old pump, since it's all dark brown from age - I didn't think of looking at the new pump, since I got so frustrated! I'm working on a '02 VW Passat 1.8T - looks to be the same. Thank God for RUclips! 👍👍
I know three years later but about to attack this on a vw mk5 golf 1.6 fsi … just wondering if I’ll need timing tools of only replacing the oil pump? Thanks again! Good work! 💪🏽
I know this is an old video but I have a ADR 1.8 non turbo and it's developed a knock most likely from the head it's an inconsistent knock that is very loud when cold and in any gear (automatic) D R P N however after it's warm it is quiet in N and P but makes the knocking in gear and on pull away for about 200Rpm then it's fine no knocking but there's a vibration at 2000rpm, is it low oil pressure a blockage maybe? Not getting any specific codes and there's no performance loss I'm completely out of ideas the timing chain was replaced as someone said it was that.
I own a 2007 Audi A4. I am wondering if there's anyway to remove the oil pan without having to lower the sub-frame? I don't have that type of equipment available to support the frame and etc.
I can't get the two hidden bolts at the back of the pan off. The insides are stripped. And my subframe is too far back to allow me to use a long extension like that. What would you recommend I do?
Brian, hello good work as always what was the cause and symptomes that you changed the oil pump and is this acommon problem with those cars thankyou . cheeeeers
While at work i had intermittent oil pressure light and sometimes a small tick from motor. Last night while at work my turbo decided to blow (a weird honking sound) Then oil light stayed on and tick sound got kinda louder. Drove it home (about 20 or so mimutes. Oil level fine but i am going to replace turbo and oil pump. And try to clean pickup tube. Do you think engine is okay ? I started it this morning for like 5 seconds and was kinda noisy. Not loud but soumded like lifters werent happy. Did start right up tho
Thank you so much, for this great write up/info and video. I have 2 questions; Do you recommend replacing the oil pump chain? And the does the oil pump have to be timed correctly? Like is there any timing marks or should I mark the old chain/sprocket? Seems like both answers are no it's not necessary, but would love the clarification. Also, THANK YOU FOR ADDING THE TORQUE SPECS for the important components. You are a step ahead of any other repair videos I have seen. Keep spreading your knowledge!
Hello hello . Your vide helped alot but i sm still stuck at the last 2 bolts for which i need to turn the frywheel.its really pain To get everything alligned. Wasnt expecting this from audi
How did u figure out that the oil pump was the issue not the pickup screen? Please help. I have removed oil pump and pickup screen, the problem is that the pickup screen wasn’t that bad in my opinion but I don’t know I’m doing this for the first time so I maybe don’t know how it should look. My issue is oil pressure light on engine sounds like a diesel. If not the oil pump or pickup screen what could it be?
It could also be the timing chain tensioner that is failing and making the rattle noise . Does it do it all the time or only at cold start for like a minute?
@@kukurishk That same question I had my self. I replaced both the oil pump and tensioner because the oil pump was failing and because of the lack of pressure it ruined the chain tensioner and my chain actually scraped a bit of the top of the valve cover so in the end had to replace that aswell 😅
Alex Saenz ok. But what I trying to understand is how to know if the oil pump is bad or not? I can’t see any wear on it it looks fully functional to me but I don’t know 😕 how did you figure out that the oil pump was failing ?
All bolts that get a degree of angle torque after torqued to spec are stretch bolts , stretch bolts in theory dont fully return to original spec when released however to say that the bolts will loose tension if stretched again is debatable
All done I fitted my new pump with the drive gear left attached as it was solid and I was using hand tools. Had to drop the air con unit to get the sump back in. No need to disconnect air con pipe work as some have suggested. I was working on the saloon version which is basically identical. Anything that got in the way of the sump was tie wrapped out of the way. i.e pipework and the air con unit. Tensioner for the pump chain was fine thank God.
The mechanic said it's a little bit hard to fix on Audi's has some issues as oil pump sensor , abs sensor module secondary air pump ,vaccum lines ,another thing to said the timing belt .they wear fast from 2001_2004 , Audi A4 2.0 t
If you watch the video closely , you'll notice to where he put a transmission jack under the subframe to hold it up, then he slowly let the subframe down, if you don't own a transmission jack use a floor jack .
I found out that the 2 hidden bolts once slackened will not drop out until the rest of the sump bolts are out and the sump is freed of its seal to the crank case because they come up against a ridge on the fly wheel the movement of the sump as it is freed causes them to clear the ridge and they will drop out. I can see getting the sump back is going to be a proper c--t on my back whilst ensuring the silicone don't get messed up. Happy days thought I was done with this carry on years ago. Must get that bus pass form filled in. LOL! Who am I kidding , be handy though.
I have an audi a4 quattro 2.0 with low oil pressure light, the mechanic is charging me $2180 to put a 1.8 oil pump conversion kit in it, but I heard this can cause issues down the road, is this true?
Thanks for the video, very detailed and clear, I'm going to be doing this with car on jack stands, already have car in service position since I took head off and had it rebuilt.
So I did this followed all instructions my low oil pressure light is still on and advise I changes out the lvl sensor and oil pressure sensor idk what it is lol
I just read somewhere that that the oil pump chain tensioner on higher mileage cars can become brittle and break. I'm in the middle of doing this job pending parts tomorrow so this is all I need these things are on a timer at 175 k get shot of em. Had it for 4 years great car but just recently a money pit. Steering rack leak, clutch plate worn to disintegration no warning or slippage just fixed those went for a test drive and would you believe low oil pressure warning light on pick up blocked always changed oil regularly. Had my last Audi 11years. The love affair is over didn't owe me a penny till now but the way those faults developed one after another somebody has to be sticking pins in an model Audi soft toy just round the corner.
Please please reply to my comment as my Audi A4 2005 have the same issue with low pressure oil light , but the light will appear when I accelerate above 80Km when I reduce the gas below 80 the light will disappear, please let me know it’s the low pressure sensor or the pick up ?
Finally found a video with the oil pan like the one I have thank you so much for your time and consideration I was having a hard time getting the two hidden ones but after this video I feel like I have been well educated on it hopefully I will get it done and hopefully I have the back pump cause I was told that it's the one required for my car but honestly I do hope cause I got it online and I will admit that I got a good deal on the car needed an oil pump gave 300 for the car and 42.00 for the pump first Volkswagen I have owned lol and I will have to say probably be the last LoL no seriously I will have to see how it goes
@@HowtoAutomotive actually I think it is fine the engine was running fine but it just started having low oil pressure so the previous owner was able to get it home in minutes and shut it off he just didn't want to miss with it and his son was getting ready to go out of town so he let me have it he actually works on vehicles but he was backed up and when I got it was in January and he didn't want to work on it but he actually tried to get it back before I got to get it out of his garage area although he turned out to be a blow hard liar he did let it go to cheap but I was also told by him I could do the work on it there once he got a bay cleared out so I left the key in case he needed to move it but instead of being a stand up guy he let his son or someone take the radio out of it after I had paid for it and he had to get my key mailed back to his house from his son in Tennessee but that is going to be getting taken care of and I have been giving him free advertisement for the radio ordeal LoL I have to say that I still came out with a good investment for the 300 investment in parts if nothing else but I will let you know what I find out about the motor and ty
Audi ,volkswagen ,porche ,no sirven mucho diceño y tecnología pero mala construcción materiales de baja calidad en motor ,transmisión ,carrocería ,interior y eléctrico e tenido mala experiensia
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Man I’m doing this on my back in a garage and that’s why it’s taking me forever to get these bolts off only one I can’t get in the back left side I got all the other ones out easy but this side back one is kicking my ass! Hopefully I can get some progress tonight!
Turn the crankshaft to gain access to the back sump bolts! You're a life saver. Great video.
This is a great video for oil pan removal from the B6 1.8T engines
great job, I'll be waiting till you show how to change timing belt and oil pump on a 2001 acura 3.2 tl. I got a quote from dealership, I was going to let them do it, but when I asked to change crank sensor while they were in there, they wanted to charge an extra 450 plus part, I said no way. I'll be waiting and watching, keep up the good work and thanks for sharing your wealth of automotive knowledge with us
Bobby Benn I'm glad to share. If one comes in the shop I'll film it. Thank you for watching!
Thanks for going into detail on this job. Worst part of this job is keeping all those different bolts in order. Your a master at this and it's been fun watching you work.
Thanks Brian !
Ron Baynes you develop a system for keeping track of bolts after working on cars for long periods of time. Thank you for watching!
@@HowtoAutomotiveHello. is this the same process for a passat 1.8T b5.5?
Priming the oil pump is a good idea ?
I did get my oil pump out without taking the sprocket off. I took the 3 bolts out, wedged the tensioner down and pulled down on the pickup tube and wiggled it down and to the right and the chain came right off. Just thought I'd throw that out there. Nice instructional video!!!
Thank you for the tips and for watching!
Decent mechanics , only down fall to much sealant on sump when that squishes out there will be a lot of sealant overhang , the worry is that a lot of sealant over hanging inside the engine , can and will block up the oil pick up and can eventually if not noticed off kill the engine
Are there any changes to make it at home conditions? I mean on the floor?
Hey. What's the name of the tool what you use on the crankshaft?
Hi there, thanks for the more helpful and interesting video. I have a problem with my 1.8T APU engine Audi A4 , when i start the car there is no problem until i rev to 2000 to 2500 rpm ,the oil pressure warning light start to flash , What can be the problem?
Hi,great video,can you tell me is there no gasket between the oil pump output gallery where it’s bolted to the cylinder block please. I’m going to be putting new oil pump on Passat 18t very soon. Many thanks
Would this work on a 2002 A4 3.0 quattro
After how many miles does the oil pump chain integrity start being a concern?
After 250,000-300,000 miles
I just tried to check my oil pick up today but realized I don’t have the necessary tools to do it, i was told y oil light would come on from a clogged pick up, I always do regular oil changes and just did one 1000 miles ago, I didn’t see any particles coming out when i drained the oil just now and the light hasn’t come on since, do you still think a clogged pick up could be an issue? Or is it more likely a sensor?
Is it same for 1.9tdi? I spin flywheel and there is no half moon shaped cutout
Hey brian Working Hands Automotive here awesome video bro took me 2hrs to do but I got it done WOW if I haven't done the jobs you make vids on for some reason after I see your vids I end up doing the same job lol that's crazy
I need to change the sump as it was previously damaged but what do you suggest shell i change the oil pump as well or leave it as it is?
Thank you, Brian- I was about to rip all my hair out trying to remove the pump WITHOUT removing the sprocket! Impossible! I saw the tensioner and assumed the chain would just slip off - NOT the case! The sprocket looked press fit on the old pump, since it's all dark brown from age - I didn't think of looking at the new pump, since I got so frustrated! I'm working on a '02 VW Passat 1.8T - looks to be the same. Thank God for RUclips! 👍👍
Smitty Smithsonite If you can ever reference new parts it’s a big help. Good luck with the repair and thank you for watching!
I know three years later but about to attack this on a vw mk5 golf 1.6 fsi … just wondering if I’ll need timing tools of only replacing the oil pump? Thanks again! Good work! 💪🏽
I know this is an old video but I have a ADR 1.8 non turbo and it's developed a knock most likely from the head it's an inconsistent knock that is very loud when cold and in any gear (automatic) D R P N however after it's warm it is quiet in N and P but makes the knocking in gear and on pull away for about 200Rpm then it's fine no knocking but there's a vibration at 2000rpm, is it low oil pressure a blockage maybe? Not getting any specific codes and there's no performance loss I'm completely out of ideas the timing chain was replaced as someone said it was that.
Very comprehensive video absolutely phenomenal you deserve more views.
Question are u flatrate? And if so what’s that job pay?
Jay Bisky I am a flat rate automotive technician. I believe this job 4 to 5 hours book time I have to look it up.
So a clogged oil pump will cause a loud rattle at start up?
I own a 2007 Audi A4. I am wondering if there's anyway to remove the oil pan without having to lower the sub-frame? I don't have that type of equipment available to support the frame and etc.
mwamba Williams I don’t think the pan will come out without dropping the frame.
I can't get the two hidden bolts at the back of the pan off. The insides are stripped. And my subframe is too far back to allow me to use a long extension like that. What would you recommend I do?
Nik Chappee it’s hard to say without seeing. But it sounds like you may need to drop the frame.
Brian, hello good work as always what was the cause and symptomes that you changed the oil pump and is this acommon problem with those cars thankyou . cheeeeers
j georges The car had low oil pressure due to sludge buildup. Poor maintenance in cheap oil. I have seen it a few times not sure if it's super common.
While at work i had intermittent oil pressure light and sometimes a small tick from motor. Last night while at work my turbo decided to blow (a weird honking sound) Then oil light stayed on and tick sound got kinda louder. Drove it home (about 20 or so mimutes. Oil level fine but i am going to replace turbo and oil pump. And try to clean pickup tube. Do you think engine is okay ? I started it this morning for like 5 seconds and was kinda noisy. Not loud but soumded like lifters werent happy. Did start right up tho
When changing your turbo, put a new oil supply line on it.
Thank you so much, for this great write up/info and video. I have 2 questions; Do you recommend replacing the oil pump chain? And the does the oil pump have to be timed correctly? Like is there any timing marks or should I mark the old chain/sprocket? Seems like both answers are no it's not necessary, but would love the clarification.
Also, THANK YOU FOR ADDING THE TORQUE SPECS for the important components. You are a step ahead of any other repair videos I have seen. Keep spreading your knowledge!
I would replace the chain if it has slack. But there is no alignment marks to deal with.
2:54, yeah that snub mount doesn't look too happy lol
You stopped me from throwing my car away. Thank You.
What if I don't have a car lift and I'm using a couple of jacks and jack stands
Hello hello .
Your vide helped alot but i sm still stuck at the last 2 bolts for which i need to turn the frywheel.its really pain
To get everything alligned.
Wasnt expecting this from audi
far as turning the crank, if you remove the spark plugs it will be easier to rotate it.
Is the 2009 Audi A4 2.0 turbo a similar project?
And if the light hasn’t come on since is it still good to drive?
How do you tighten the tension?
How did u figure out that the oil pump was the issue not the pickup screen? Please help. I have removed oil pump and pickup screen, the problem is that the pickup screen wasn’t that bad in my opinion but I don’t know I’m doing this for the first time so I maybe don’t know how it should look. My issue is oil pressure light on engine sounds like a diesel. If not the oil pump or pickup screen what could it be?
It could also be the timing chain tensioner that is failing and making the rattle noise . Does it do it all the time or only at cold start for like a minute?
Alex Saenz It does it all the time. If it’s the timing chain tensioner why is the oil pressure light on then?
@@kukurishk That same question I had my self. I replaced both the oil pump and tensioner because the oil pump was failing and because of the lack of pressure it ruined the chain tensioner and my chain actually scraped a bit of the top of the valve cover so in the end had to replace that aswell 😅
Alex Saenz ok. But what I trying to understand is how to know if the oil pump is bad or not? I can’t see any wear on it it looks fully functional to me but I don’t know 😕 how did you figure out that the oil pump was failing ?
All bolts that get a degree of angle torque after torqued to spec are stretch bolts , stretch bolts in theory dont fully return to original spec when released however to say that the bolts will loose tension if stretched again is debatable
All done I fitted my new pump with the drive gear left attached as it was solid and I was using hand tools. Had to drop the air con unit to get the sump back in. No need to disconnect air con pipe work as some have suggested. I was working on the saloon version which is basically identical. Anything that got in the way of the sump was tie wrapped out of the way. i.e pipework and the air con unit. Tensioner for the pump chain was fine thank God.
mike holt glad it all worked out. I like the tips thank you 👍🏻
WOW great video. know wonder the mech. wanted so much money to fix this problem. great video brian eslick
Jesse Conway it's a lotta work for sure. Thank you for watching!
J Stephens that seems like a lot of extra work to me. This one was not to bad.
The mechanic said it's a little bit hard to fix on Audi's has some issues as oil pump sensor , abs sensor module secondary air pump ,vaccum lines ,another thing to said the timing belt .they wear fast from 2001_2004 , Audi A4 2.0 t
How do you replace the tensioner?
How much did this job cost?
How is the 3.0 job done im bout to take down my subframe.
Challenges with COBE and EV pretty much the same way. Drop that frame out.
And also can you define a little more that how to remove the subframe safely
If you watch the video closely , you'll notice to where he put a transmission jack under the subframe to hold it up, then he slowly let the subframe down, if you don't own a transmission jack use a floor jack .
I found out that the 2 hidden bolts once slackened will not drop out until the rest of the sump bolts are out and the sump is freed of its seal to the crank case because they come up against a ridge on the fly wheel the movement of the sump as it is freed causes them to clear the ridge and they will drop out. I can see getting the sump back is going to be a proper c--t on my back whilst ensuring the silicone don't get messed up. Happy days thought I was done with this carry on years ago. Must get that bus pass form filled in. LOL! Who am I kidding , be handy though.
What if I did this and the car still says low oil pressure?
And how much was for all the parts?
Very good teacher I learned a lot of your videos, very informative👍
Thank you and thank you for watching!
Is this a b5 or b6?
Was it cause by not changing the oil?
Hector Rocha yes and cheap oil.
Did you need to prime the pump?
Macho Borracho no priming need it just start the car
I have an audi a4 quattro 2.0 with low oil pressure light, the mechanic is charging me $2180 to put a 1.8 oil pump conversion kit in it, but I heard this can cause issues down the road, is this true?
Mia Harrod I’ve never installed a conversion kit so I can’t say.
Thanks for the video, very detailed and clear, I'm going to be doing this with car on jack stands, already have car in service position since I took head off and had it rebuilt.
Good luck with the repair. Hopefully doesn’t give me in trouble. Thank you for watching!
How did the repair go? I'm about to do the same thing
Excellent vid, very easy repair!
So I did this followed all instructions my low oil pressure light is still on and advise I changes out the lvl sensor and oil pressure sensor idk what it is lol
Ok light went off after 15 miles
I just read somewhere that that the oil pump chain tensioner on higher mileage cars can become brittle and break. I'm in the middle of doing this job pending parts tomorrow so this is all I need these things are on a timer at 175 k get shot of em. Had it for 4 years great car but just recently a money pit. Steering rack leak, clutch plate worn to disintegration no warning or slippage just fixed those went for a test drive and would you believe low oil pressure warning light on pick up blocked always changed oil regularly. Had my last Audi 11years. The love affair is over didn't owe me a penny till now but the way those faults developed one after another somebody has to be sticking pins in an model Audi soft toy just round the corner.
thanks for your video!!! you are a life saver
We're u located I need that job done...and how much
Tirec Chatman my shop is in Encinitas California.
Great video, Audios a bit funny but no big deal. This should help me on my 2001
Please please reply to my comment as my Audi A4 2005 have the same issue with low pressure oil light , but the light will appear when I accelerate above 80Km when I reduce the gas below 80 the light will disappear, please let me know it’s the low pressure sensor or the pick up ?
She'll run a good while longer now! =)
Thomas EXOVCDS it need a timing chain now.
jesus christ this is pain in the ass... good video tho
Finally found a video with the oil pan like the one I have thank you so much for your time and consideration I was having a hard time getting the two hidden ones but after this video I feel like I have been well educated on it hopefully I will get it done and hopefully I have the back pump cause I was told that it's the one required for my car but honestly I do hope cause I got it online and I will admit that I got a good deal on the car needed an oil pump gave 300 for the car and 42.00 for the pump first Volkswagen I have owned lol and I will have to say probably be the last LoL no seriously I will have to see how it goes
Willard Perine Hopefully this all works out for you and it’s just a pump and no engine damage. Wishing you luck. Thank you for watching!
@@HowtoAutomotive actually I think it is fine the engine was running fine but it just started having low oil pressure so the previous owner was able to get it home in minutes and shut it off he just didn't want to miss with it and his son was getting ready to go out of town so he let me have it he actually works on vehicles but he was backed up and when I got it was in January and he didn't want to work on it but he actually tried to get it back before I got to get it out of his garage area although he turned out to be a blow hard liar he did let it go to cheap but I was also told by him I could do the work on it there once he got a bay cleared out so I left the key in case he needed to move it but instead of being a stand up guy he let his son or someone take the radio out of it after I had paid for it and he had to get my key mailed back to his house from his son in Tennessee but that is going to be getting taken care of and I have been giving him free advertisement for the radio ordeal LoL I have to say that I still came out with a good investment for the 300 investment in parts if nothing else but I will let you know what I find out about the motor and ty
You just need thin smear because they are machines surfaces I dosn’t seam enough but trust me it is
Brilliant video great detail
Andy thank you!
Ohhhh and I'm hoping my 1.8 TT isn't so involved . great video cheers .
TT’s are a bit better, I believe
The Germans love the hex (and torx) Great video. Now I know I will just stick with the Asian makes.
you put that pan back on dirty inside not good
Charlie widick no it was stained due to lack of maintenance. Trust me I cleaned it.
Wow I would hate to come behind anybody else having worked on these and probably stripped out every one of those allen heads!!
Side note that was NOT a thin layer of permatex! Haha
Imagine doing this on your driveway lying on your back!
That’s what I’m doing!
How did it go?
I’m fucking doing and it sucks asssssss
@@xbxsnakeyesfire1211 try changing a clutch on this engine, wasn’t fun at all considering it’s a Quattro which made it harder
@@Lu-gm9mx hey. Have you done it? I need to do it and i am thinking should i start or not 😁
That engine is really nasty inside, i guess it's the long oil change intervals germans like so much nowdays.
ert870 I would say this one was the customer
J Stephens cheap oil and lack of maintenance on this one.
Audi ,volkswagen ,porche ,no sirven mucho diceño y tecnología pero mala construcción materiales de baja calidad en motor ,transmisión ,carrocería ,interior y eléctrico e tenido mala experiensia
He said "thin" layer of silicone lol
Doesn’t seem like a big job
BEST VIDEO ON THIS JOB , THKS