This case is rock solid (like other Pelican cases). ruclips.net/user/postUgkx3jMFPw9QX_Iu4DNcjW-t9AZ4_iNhJzhE I paired it with the Master Lock 140T set of padlocks. The US Airways ticket agent that checked the case was impressed by how completely the latches were secured. The case has layers of removable foam cubes that can be easily adapted to the contents of the case and keep everything secure. After declaring its contents to the ticket agent, I was allowed to put this case in other checked luggage. Due to its size and black color, this helped insure that it wasn't misplaced by a baggage handler. TSA was (apparently) happy with the packaging as well. If you plan on flying with more than one of the main items, I would recommend buying a larger Pelican case and just transport the case as another piece of checked luggage.
You can mount it even closer to the wall or floor. Cut the tab off the back of the key and replace it with a length of rod welded, braised or epoxied at right angles to the barrel of the key.
I've seen an electronic like this one but instead of having an external key it had a slot for a 9 volt battery to press up against a pair of leads as a backup external power source. I would like to see that duplicated on more devices like this one.
sounds like a perfect opportunity for someone to go and fry your circuit tho. even if it fails safe that would still turn your expensive safe into junk
I think perhaps the most important security feature are the holes on the bottom for securing to a surface. If someone can carry it away it doesn't really matter how tough the safe is. Also, 4096 is the number of possible combination.
As a software flaw of the microcontroller in the thing that sounds unlikely so I'd rather assume it's a long 2nd combination such as for example hotel safes commonly have.
The hinge pin can be cut through a hinge slot with a piece of hacksaw blade,and removed in under a minute. With the shaft of one of the white disposable Bic pens,and a lighter. You can easily defeat most of the tubular keyed locks. Heat one end of the shaft till it's softened. Then press it firmly into the keyhole,hold it till it cools,then turn it like a key to open.
Reasonable price, and the idea of mounting it to only allow the key to fit down the side is something to consider. Always go for something that’s lock lab approved 👍
i mean if it's impressionable (completely inexcusable for any tubular lock) then it's easily single pin picked which doesn't require as much clearance.
Haha love the coincidence of Inrangetv q&a mentioning your gun product reviews and then you do a gun safe. My you tube playlist are all interconnected unbeknownst to me.
Is there anything similar but with 9V battery contact instead of backup lock? The battery contact of course is to be used in the case of battery running out of charge.
Each of the 8 "digits" of the combination can be one of 4 possibilities, therefore the total number of possible combinations is 4^8 = 65,536 This encompasses all shorter combinations.
@@JasperJanssen Yes, but 4^8 contains all the possible lesser combinations, valid or otherwise. For simplicity take the case of 4 digits, 1111, 1112, 1113,1114,1121,1122,...1131, ... This sequence of 4^4 possibilities (256) contains all the 4^3 (64) 3 digit combinations 111, 112, 113, ... If you were trying to crack this safe by exhaustively entering combinations, you would enter all the possible 8 digit ones and, along the way, you would pass through all the shorter ones and if the safe were set to one of these it would open. Note that as soon as you have entered the correct combination the LED flashes green. The only thing Bosniabill didn't mention is what happens if you enter more digits than the combination. Does it start tracking a new sequence or just ignore the extra digits? Is there a reset combination if you know you've made a mistake?
I'm guessing the light blinks red when you enter enough digits, letting you know how many to enter. I see this as the bored teenager attack method. Go through a few more combinations every so often when the parents are away.
@@pjaj43 From the safe manual (model 5200DF, but looks to be the same as what Bill reviewed): "If an invalid passcode has been entered, the red light will blink continously." That's different from the short blink on each button press. If it didn't do that, you could either miss a button or accidentally double tap and never know when the sequence was restarting to enter the correct code.
I just got an email from sparrows and they told me if they make the disc detainer pick you and lpl made it should be ready in late October. If they have a release date I'm pretty sure there gonna make it!
yeah, tubular locks... i only fairly recently got interested in the sport of picking, and I've tried picking a few. with nothing more than a home made tensioner from a hacksaw blade, and a tiny torx driver for mobile phones that i sharpener on a grinder into a minature pointy stick, have been able to SPP all tubular locks I've come across in a matter of a few minutes. They can't be all that good if someone like myself with very little experience can do that...
Can you drill a hole above the reset button and push the button from the outside using a probe to reset the password? If yes, then it can be defeated using a small cordless drill.
The resset button doesn't require to imput the old pasword acording to the manual so if you have a template to know where to drill or perhaps use a hole saw I think this is a plausible attack.
Good catch, but at that point your using power tools which make noise and you would have to know exactly where to drill maybe going so far as to bring a blueprint with you. i also wonder how it would fare against a crowbar and a good pair of cutters. If its bolted down the gap provided by the feet would give a perfect spot to pry. Even if its bolted to something metal you could probably still break the bolts or the bottom of the safe, seeing as theres only two bolts and the look pretty small in diameter and most people aren’t going to be using grade 8 or AN hardware. But if you did have one of these and wanted to Harden it it looks like you could install an anti drill plate over the reset button, plus using AN hardware with large washers or an up-rated armored cable would be good places to start.
I would suggest using a cable clamp to shorten up the long cable but agree that it would be better to double it. Really would like to know if this box is susceptible to large magnet attacks. That is the main downfall of most electronic style locks. Get a large enough magnet and you can actuate the solenoid that keeps it locked. The only way to prevent that is with a large heavy steel plate to spread the magnetic forces away from the solenoid. Would like to see you go through any electronic locks you have or come across to check this out. It is a major vulnerability and likely is even more of an issue than the tubular lock.
Constrained magnets are another idea. Just have a strip of alternating magnets that massively attenuate the field. A cheaper idea is making that steel plate folded with a weak magnet connecting the loose ends for a similar effect.
I noticed there was what appear to be rivet type heads ( 4 of them ) where the hinge runs at the back , if I'm right could you drill these out and lift the lid off that way , I'm just asking not suggesting .
A wall could be quite close to every side of this box, and protect the hinge and the lock. The door doesn't have to open very much, so there could even be a cover quite close.
To keep that cable short inside the box, tie a knot in the ends to keep from pulling slack out of box, just a loop wrapped around itself will do, since pulling will only tighten the knot
An often used exploit on safes like these is fashioning a long metal shim, working it into the code reset button, and resetting the code whilst the safe is still closed and locked. It looks like this could be an issue on this safe. Have you tried taking a look at that?
As a excavation contractor i get called to demolish homes. I went to one site that crackhead squatters took over/ there were a lot of these kinds of boxes particularly the Brinks blue box, personal papers of the victims all over, they sort of had a breaking station set up to process them
Like he said, have a battery rotation policy. I have a Hornady safe with a similar style keypad that uses a big pack of 8 batteries (12V) and all it takes it one cell to fail to kill the whole pack, but thankfully the external power input is 12V with a common barrel-jack (5.5x2.1mm), so I can get it power from a car hot-shot and an easy-to-make cigarette-lighter adapter-cord (don't have to be near an outlet).
Their three year claim is probably a best case scenario where you put fresh batteries in lock it and don't touch it for 3 years. Each time you open it you decrease the battery life.
Bill, I'm wondering if there is a typo in the video title? I can't find an RA31424 safe - however I found an RA31524 on Amazon instead. And when I searched First Alert's site, it appears they use model number 5200DF for this safe.
Very nice - if nothing else, bolting an L bracket on the bottom so that it blocks the lock entry as you suggest 'with a wall' so that only a key would fit.
lots of people talk about external power supply options instead of a tubular lock. sounds like an invitation for someone to fry your electronics. even if it stays close you now have a broken safe that you have to cut open just bc someone tried to hook up wall power to it
I love your work and hope you keep it up for years to come. I would love an instructional video on what different pin features do and what is their implementation in a lock also the significance of treading any part of a lock.
The hinge looks like the biggest weakness to me. It looks like 2 clearly defined spotweld marks that could be drilled out in seconds with an 1/8' drillbit.
I thought that, but I think those are holes drilled in the outer case that engage with pressed bumps on the hinge to give registration for welding the hinge in the right place.
would liked to have seen the hinge on the inside, i noticed four plug welds on the outside, can you use a punch and break the welds and defeat the hinge that way?
1:38 The hinge looks easy to drill with the pair of included center taps. Would it make more sense to have the batteries externally available instead of have a keyed backup? Or use a keyed external battery compartment?
Hi Bill, apologies if this isn't the place to ask. But your ideas for securing this to stuff has prompted this question. I want to get a scan tool that's extremely expensive, for my business, but I want to keep it in my boot, as it's fairly useless safe at home. But this tool is literally worth more than my entire car, and I'd like some way to keep it safe inside the car. Are car safes a thing? The size of the tool I want to protect is maybe the size of a dictionary, if not slightly larger. It's basically a tablet device, but a very chunky one. If car safes are a thing, could you so kindly do a video about them? I can barely find any info, if you look for "car safes" etc, it's mainly pages about car safety. The best I can find is maybe a gun safe for a car. But I'd like to know what to go for. Thanks.
Does it lose the combination if the power is lost or when the batteries are changed? External power could he an option but if cutting power and reapplying it resets the combination or disables the combination failure wait time then it will still need an internal backup. Though you could use a rechargeable backup that maintains itself with the external power.
wonder if its susceptible to the side poke attacks some of the similar shell styles have, that deviant ollam has demonstrated in his defcon 19 safe to armed in seconds video.
I have seen electronic high security door locks with a pair of battery terminals on the outside to apply a 9 volt battery in order to liven up the lock electronics if the main batteries go flat, to then enter the code, open the door and change the main batteries. This could be argued to be better than a mechanical override. Feeding a high voltage into those terminals in an attempt to sabotage would only destroy the electronics and therefore deadlock the door forever.
That's where all my passports went. Seriously though, that looks like a good safety to time ratio, pistol case. I can see that being great simply to keep your kids away from your pistol but also have it close by like mounted to the side or back of a nightstand.
Not a bad box. I'm a little concerned that it looked like the hinge might have been spot welded or riveted in four places, so could possibly be drilled pretty quickly. Also a big screw driver might be able to pry it open. But all in all, certianly better than a shoebox under the bed.
I have a similar safe made by a different company, and each "digit" can be any combination of four buttons that are pushed before all buttons are released. If this is similar, then adding the six ways of using two buttons to the four ways of using a single button would increase the number of possibilities to 10,000 or 100,000,000.
With 4-8 digits as all combinations less than 8 are included in 8 they can be discarded: total combinations is 4**8, and assuming that the only waiting is after batches of 3 waiting for 4 minutes it will take over 60 days to try every combination
Well, since there are 4 buttons, there are 4^4 = 256 permutations (because the order matters) for 4 digits, 1 024 for 5, 4 096 for 6, 16 384 for 7 and 65 536 for 8. Sum it up and you get 87 296 permutations. Imagine you can enter them instantly, so considering a 4-minute lock every 3 tries, that's about 242 full days for trying them all! You'd have better luck with a drill or a saw... or just using the key impressioning tool.
Did you try breaking off the pad and supplying voltage to the leads? Seems like the easiest attack to me. Worst case a 9V block is enough to open this thing.
Lately I've encountered several tubular locks that I can't open with any of my impressioning tools, most notably the Chateau lock. Why is this? And what can I do to defeat these locks?
The problem is often the spring strength in the lock, requiring you to experiment with different tightnesses on the ring that holds the pick needles. Try varying how tight you screw down that nut. Some locks require it to be VERY light, while others insist on needles that aren't quite so free-floating.
![[1177] Australian High Security: BiLock Version 2 Picked and Gutted](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/f5uk6C1iDkQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Diplomatic passport? Gun barrel threaded for a suppressor? Dude you really are 007 aren’t you? You can tell me. I don’t work for Spector.
And he knows his explosives!
Is Phil Spector still putting out diabolical songs?
@@JasperJanssen How about Regina Spektor?
007 is British. This man is the real Felix Leiter
or, 007 is good at faking accents :o
This case is rock solid (like other Pelican cases). ruclips.net/user/postUgkx3jMFPw9QX_Iu4DNcjW-t9AZ4_iNhJzhE I paired it with the Master Lock 140T set of padlocks. The US Airways ticket agent that checked the case was impressed by how completely the latches were secured. The case has layers of removable foam cubes that can be easily adapted to the contents of the case and keep everything secure. After declaring its contents to the ticket agent, I was allowed to put this case in other checked luggage. Due to its size and black color, this helped insure that it wasn't misplaced by a baggage handler. TSA was (apparently) happy with the packaging as well. If you plan on flying with more than one of the main items, I would recommend buying a larger Pelican case and just transport the case as another piece of checked luggage.
You can mount it even closer to the wall or floor. Cut the tab off the back of the key and replace it with a length of rod welded, braised or epoxied at right angles to the barrel of the key.
Good idea!
Recently overheard on a different channel:
"... one of the passports that Bosnian Bill and I made ..."
Who the heck has a safe full of diplomatic passports?
Bosnian Bill, that's who.
Just like The Bourne Identity..
The Bosnian Identity
And the names vary on them ... from Tasmanian Tim to Nashville Nick.
The same guy that has a Glock 30 with a barrel threaded for a silencer.
Actually he's Daniel Craig doing his day job.
Um---if I win the safe, does the Glock come with it?
Sorry, I have a use for that...😋
Bosnianbill Awe shucks. A guy can always wish, but wishes don't always come true. Thanks and I did enjoy the video.
I've seen an electronic like this one but instead of having an external key it had a slot for a 9 volt battery to press up against a pair of leads as a backup external power source. I would like to see that duplicated on more devices like this one.
sounds like a perfect opportunity for someone to go and fry your circuit tho.
even if it fails safe that would still turn your expensive safe into junk
It's good to see a personal safe that has a reasonable expectation of security.
I think perhaps the most important security feature are the holes on the bottom for securing to a surface. If someone can carry it away it doesn't really matter how tough the safe is. Also, 4096 is the number of possible combination.
Good work Bill. I was sorry to hear that you retired, but I understand why you'd want to spend time with your family. Best wishes from a fan.
Me: "Hey, this thing looks pretty good."
Bill: "... tubular key..."
Me: "Oh. Crap."
lemme get my pen to "write" that code down
There's an Amazon review suggesting that repeated presses of the second button eventually unlocks it, pretty critical flaw if true.
As a software flaw of the microcontroller in the thing that sounds unlikely so I'd rather assume it's a long 2nd combination such as for example hotel safes commonly have.
Just picked this up from Costco for $49. Works great! Love it!
9:10 "Tire out just one poor... arm might need that arm for later." Umm, okay sure.
For what just might you need that arm for Bill?
@@HylianOverlord Something to do with the naughty bucket, I'm sure.
Not a bad little safe. Keep them coming. Always like the reviews to help on my end with customers.
I noticed the sun came up, on schedule, this morning and as I sit on porch typing this post it is sinking into the horizon. It's a good day.
The hinge pin can be cut through a hinge slot with a piece of hacksaw blade,and removed in under a minute.
With the shaft of one of the white disposable Bic pens,and a lighter. You can easily defeat most of the tubular keyed locks.
Heat one end of the shaft till it's softened.
Then press it firmly into the keyhole,hold it till it cools,then turn it like a key to open.
Reasonable price, and the idea of mounting it to only allow the key to fit down the side is something to consider. Always go for something that’s lock lab approved 👍
i mean if it's impressionable (completely inexcusable for any tubular lock) then it's easily single pin picked which doesn't require as much clearance.
Haha love the coincidence of Inrangetv q&a mentioning your gun product reviews and then you do a gun safe. My you tube playlist are all interconnected unbeknownst to me.
Ian met Lauri and Anni from Beyond the Press at Wacken
Excellent advice mounting it close to a wall. Nice vault.
finally your videos pop up again in my feed
screw that lockpicking lawyer with his attitude problems, this man is the original
The hinge is spaced, I wonder if you could hacksaw it or dremel it?
Just bought one from Costco online, on sale for only $44.99 delivered!! How cool.
Is there anything similar but with 9V battery contact instead of backup lock?
The battery contact of course is to be used in the case of battery running out of charge.
Each of the 8 "digits" of the combination can be one of 4 possibilities, therefore the total number of possible combinations is 4^8 = 65,536 This encompasses all shorter combinations.
No. It can only be between 4 and 8 digits. It’s 4^8 plus 4^7...plus 4^4.
@@JasperJanssen Yes, but 4^8 contains all the possible lesser combinations, valid or otherwise. For simplicity take the case of 4 digits, 1111, 1112, 1113,1114,1121,1122,...1131, ... This sequence of 4^4 possibilities (256) contains all the 4^3 (64) 3 digit combinations 111, 112, 113, ... If you were trying to crack this safe by exhaustively entering combinations, you would enter all the possible 8 digit ones and, along the way, you would pass through all the shorter ones and if the safe were set to one of these it would open. Note that as soon as you have entered the correct combination the LED flashes green. The only thing Bosniabill didn't mention is what happens if you enter more digits than the combination. Does it start tracking a new sequence or just ignore the extra digits? Is there a reset combination if you know you've made a mistake?
I'm guessing the light blinks red when you enter enough digits, letting you know how many to enter. I see this as the bored teenager attack method. Go through a few more combinations every so often when the parents are away.
@@bmitch3020 The LED flash red at each of the first 3 button pushes (3:45), then green when the 4th and correct combination had been entered.
@@pjaj43 From the safe manual (model 5200DF, but looks to be the same as what Bill reviewed): "If an invalid passcode has been entered, the red light will blink continously." That's different from the short blink on each button press. If it didn't do that, you could either miss a button or accidentally double tap and never know when the sequence was restarting to enter the correct code.
Thanks for the extra tips at the end.
I just got an email from sparrows and they told me if they make the disc detainer pick you and lpl made it should be ready in late October. If they have a release date I'm pretty sure there gonna make it!
I've been looking for a small safe to put in my semi truck. This is perfect.
yeah, tubular locks... i only fairly recently got interested in the sport of picking, and I've tried picking a few. with nothing more than a home made tensioner from a hacksaw blade, and a tiny torx driver for mobile phones that i sharpener on a grinder into a minature pointy stick, have been able to SPP all tubular locks I've come across in a matter of a few minutes. They can't be all that good if someone like myself with very little experience can do that...
Oh man I love this safe! If it's approved by Bill or LPL, it must be really good! I going for a change, and if I win, I need Bill's autograph.
Scrap the lock and have a socket with external power source for back up.
Tubular lock 😱 what are they thinking.
Can you drill a hole above the reset button and push the button from the outside using a probe to reset the password? If yes, then it can be defeated using a small cordless drill.
The resset button doesn't require to imput the old pasword acording to the manual so if you have a template to know where to drill or perhaps use a hole saw I think this is a plausible attack.
It's possible that it won't reset while locked.
Good catch, but at that point your using power tools which make noise and you would have to know exactly where to drill maybe going so far as to bring a blueprint with you.
i also wonder how it would fare against a crowbar and a good pair of cutters. If its bolted down the gap provided by the feet would give a perfect spot to pry. Even if its bolted to something metal you could probably still break the bolts or the bottom of the safe, seeing as theres only two bolts and the look pretty small in diameter and most people aren’t going to be using grade 8 or AN hardware.
But if you did have one of these and wanted to Harden it it looks like you could install an anti drill plate over the reset button, plus using AN hardware with large washers or an up-rated armored cable would be good places to start.
@@purplepenguin43 re: the noise: a drill is much less noisy than a grinder.
I would suggest using a cable clamp to shorten up the long cable but agree that it would be better to double it. Really would like to know if this box is susceptible to large magnet attacks. That is the main downfall of most electronic style locks. Get a large enough magnet and you can actuate the solenoid that keeps it locked. The only way to prevent that is with a large heavy steel plate to spread the magnetic forces away from the solenoid.
Would like to see you go through any electronic locks you have or come across to check this out. It is a major vulnerability and likely is even more of an issue than the tubular lock.
Constrained magnets are another idea. Just have a strip of alternating magnets that massively attenuate the field.
A cheaper idea is making that steel plate folded with a weak magnet connecting the loose ends for a similar effect.
Throw it on the ground 1 time to see if it pops open... mine did when I lost the key that's why I'm looking for a good one.
I noticed there was what appear to be rivet type heads ( 4 of them ) where the hinge runs at the back , if I'm right could you drill these out and lift the lid off that way , I'm just asking not suggesting .
that was my first thought as well, just after "I wonder how many wires goes into the case from that plastic bit"
Are you sure they are not spot welds?
That was the BEST opening EVER! GLOCK! Suppressor and Red dot..you're ready for anything...
Great explanation of the mounting options to defeat the tubular lock pick. Nice review.
An option for an external emergency power supply sounds a better measure.
I think a dremel tool can be used to compromise the hinge.
A wall could be quite close to every side of this box, and protect the hinge and the lock. The door doesn't have to open very much, so there could even be a cover quite close.
To keep that cable short inside the box, tie a knot in the ends to keep from pulling slack out of box, just a loop wrapped around itself will do, since pulling will only tighten the knot
Repeated pulling and pushing would most likely loosen it after some time. The question is of course, how much time.
@@tomhejda6450 ,at the most it will only get longer, with the crimped ends and loops it will never go thru the hole.
send it to lockpickinglawyer first :)
Gee Bill, what safe did you store the supressor in?
Not sure you could fit a Gemtech GM-45 in there with a 7.5" length :(
He keeps that in his smugglers hold. AKA his butt purse.
Sorry couldn't help myself.
same one as his minigun.
Those 4 spots by the hinge... is that weld spots that can be drilled out ?
If you can drill it than you could probably grind the hinge completely off.
I can see LPL jus say "alright were going to just go ahead and pick this tube lock... And open"
Impressed with your contents of the safe
An often used exploit on safes like these is fashioning a long metal shim, working it into the code reset button, and resetting the code whilst the safe is still closed and locked. It looks like this could be an issue on this safe. Have you tried taking a look at that?
Great video BILL, I’m impressed with the product, thank you
As a excavation contractor i get called to demolish homes. I went to one site that crackhead squatters took over/ there were a lot of these kinds of boxes particularly the Brinks blue box, personal papers of the victims all over, they sort of had a breaking station set up to process them
How would it hold up against a big hammer or a drill attack
I own that safe, big problem with battery life. Three years doesn't match with my experience.
Like he said, have a battery rotation policy. I have a Hornady safe with a similar style keypad that uses a big pack of 8 batteries (12V) and all it takes it one cell to fail to kill the whole pack, but thankfully the external power input is 12V with a common barrel-jack (5.5x2.1mm), so I can get it power from a car hot-shot and an easy-to-make cigarette-lighter adapter-cord (don't have to be near an outlet).
id say apply the Thermostat without a C-Wire policy, change them every year.
Their three year claim is probably a best case scenario where you put fresh batteries in lock it and don't touch it for 3 years.
Each time you open it you decrease the battery life.
@@dustysparks That doesn't address the poor battery life of this safe at all.
Maybe wire some cells in parallel..
Bill, I'm wondering if there is a typo in the video title? I can't find an RA31424 safe - however I found an RA31524 on Amazon instead. And when I searched First Alert's site, it appears they use model number 5200DF for this safe.
Very nice - if nothing else, bolting an L bracket on the bottom so that it blocks the lock entry as you suggest 'with a wall' so that only a key would fit.
Thank you very much!!! This is exactly what I was asking for a few videos ago.
Pretty good considering First Alert is generally an affordable company. Even Harbor Freight has some of their detectors and fire extinguishers.
lots of people talk about external power supply options instead of a tubular lock.
sounds like an invitation for someone to fry your electronics.
even if it stays close you now have a broken safe that you have to cut open just bc someone tried to hook up wall power to it
How is that hinge attached? I can't tell if it is screwed or spot welded.
It would be nice if it had a buzzer/siren alarm and/or wiring to car/house alarm when tampered with. Mike
Another great video by Bill.
Love the "diplomatic passport" and gun...🤣
I love your work and hope you keep it up for years to come. I would love an instructional video on what different pin features do and what is their implementation in a lock also the significance of treading any part of a lock.
The hinge looks like the biggest weakness to me. It looks like 2 clearly defined spotweld marks that could be drilled out in seconds with an 1/8' drillbit.
I thought that, but I think those are holes drilled in the outer case that engage with pressed bumps on the hinge to give registration for welding the hinge in the right place.
First safe I have seen that has been built with blindness in mind, hence the dimples below the keys 1,2,3,4.
I was waitting eagerly for the Dude's lockers mate :) but this will do!!
With the hinge exposed like that wouldnt a grinder just grind it down?
Great ideas on how to secure this safe.
why they always make a mechanical backup key? why not make a backup power connector? a 9V-block or a micro-USB? i don't get it ...
Why didnt they use a standard keypad instead of this 4-piano-key arrangement? Wouldnt have taken up more space and greatly improved security, too.
would liked to have seen the hinge on the inside, i noticed four plug welds on the outside, can you use a punch and break the welds and defeat the hinge that way?
Excellent wall cavity safe affixed to the Mona Lisa.
1:38 The hinge looks easy to drill with the pair of included center taps. Would it make more sense to have the batteries externally available instead of have a keyed backup? Or use a keyed external battery compartment?
Its nice to see an item that is hard to defeat !
I did the math! Exhaustive key search in about 60 days, working 24/7 so on average 30 days to get the code.
if it not default, though. Randomizing raises chances dramatically, as in raking the pins inside the core..
Great review secret agent Bill. 👍🏻😎
Would a couple of hot drops of solder in the lock seize it up?
All i need to know is how do I get into it if I loose the key
You watch LPL's video
Hi Bill, apologies if this isn't the place to ask. But your ideas for securing this to stuff has prompted this question. I want to get a scan tool that's extremely expensive, for my business, but I want to keep it in my boot, as it's fairly useless safe at home. But this tool is literally worth more than my entire car, and I'd like some way to keep it safe inside the car. Are car safes a thing? The size of the tool I want to protect is maybe the size of a dictionary, if not slightly larger. It's basically a tablet device, but a very chunky one. If car safes are a thing, could you so kindly do a video about them? I can barely find any info, if you look for "car safes" etc, it's mainly pages about car safety. The best I can find is maybe a gun safe for a car. But I'd like to know what to go for. Thanks.
What is he referring to when he says the car "rail".
That makes me think of the rails atop the car where you strap stuff down to the roof.
The rails that the seats attach to that are securely bolted to the body of the car.
Does it lose the combination if the power is lost or when the batteries are changed? External power could he an option but if cutting power and reapplying it resets the combination or disables the combination failure wait time then it will still need an internal backup. Though you could use a rechargeable backup that maintains itself with the external power.
wonder if its susceptible to the side poke attacks some of the similar shell styles have, that deviant ollam has demonstrated in his defcon 19 safe to armed in seconds video.
What kind of sight is that?
AWESOME video once again. Rock on Bill!!
Nice Glock 30! You and LPL love your locks and guns!
I have seen electronic high security door locks with a pair of battery terminals on the outside to apply a 9 volt battery in order to liven up the lock electronics if the main batteries go flat, to then enter the code, open the door and change the main batteries. This could be argued to be better than a mechanical override. Feeding a high voltage into those terminals in an attempt to sabotage would only destroy the electronics and therefore deadlock the door forever.
That's where all my passports went. Seriously though, that looks like a good safety to time ratio, pistol case. I can see that being great simply to keep your kids away from your pistol but also have it close by like mounted to the side or back of a nightstand.
Just a little nice touch, it makes minimal noise if you want to get your gun and not inform the entire house with obnoxious beeping.
Thread protector Bill.. thread protector... oh.. nice safe as well.
What about the hinge? I see 4 spot welds only, I wonder if you could drill those out and defeat it that way.
Anyone got a link to buy it? Not on First Alerts website and googling the part number just takes me to this video :(
4:06 On that Glock 30 who is that barrel made by and what kind of suppressor do you pair with it?
Not a bad box. I'm a little concerned that it looked like the hinge might have been spot welded or riveted in four places, so could possibly be drilled pretty quickly. Also a big screw driver might be able to pry it open. But all in all, certianly better than a shoebox under the bed.
Number of combinations will range between 256 for four digits (4^4) and 65,536 for eight (4^8).
I have a similar safe made by a different company, and each "digit" can be any combination of four buttons that are pushed before all buttons are released. If this is similar, then adding the six ways of using two buttons to the four ways of using a single button would increase the number of possibilities to 10,000 or 100,000,000.
All that...but there's a tubular lock. So a really cool cookie jar/petty cash box for coffee runs in the office then!
Thanks for the review. Bought it for $40 + tax at Costco
With 4-8 digits as all combinations less than 8 are included in 8 they can be discarded: total combinations is 4**8, and assuming that the only waiting is after batches of 3 waiting for 4 minutes it will take over 60 days to try every combination
Well, since there are 4 buttons, there are 4^4 = 256 permutations (because the order matters) for 4 digits, 1 024 for 5, 4 096 for 6, 16 384 for 7 and 65 536 for 8. Sum it up and you get 87 296 permutations. Imagine you can enter them instantly, so considering a 4-minute lock every 3 tries, that's about 242 full days for trying them all! You'd have better luck with a drill or a saw... or just using the key impressioning tool.
Excellent review, thanks!
Did you try breaking off the pad and supplying voltage to the leads? Seems like the easiest attack to me. Worst case a 9V block is enough to open this thing.
Lately I've encountered several tubular locks that I can't open with any of my impressioning tools, most notably the Chateau lock. Why is this? And what can I do to defeat these locks?
The problem is often the spring strength in the lock, requiring you to experiment with different tightnesses on the ring that holds the pick needles. Try varying how tight you screw down that nut. Some locks require it to be VERY light, while others insist on needles that aren't quite so free-floating.
thanks for the video, iv been looking for a good safe to bolt down in my car
Would someone be kind enough to post a link to Amazon to buy the First Alert Personal Safe (RA31424) thanks.
google is your friend...