I have half a dozen Tuff1 ratchets. I recently bought a new old stock 1/2” flex head ratchet and it was totally locked up. It would freely spin in both directions. I too found solid grease inside. A quick clean and lube and it’s my favorite ratchet now. I’ve got a handful of 3/8 and 1/4 versions as well. Once cleaned and adjusted I just love the low drag and classic styling.
I have the SK 1/4" ratchet you show here, with the heart spring. Like you said, the screw has to be exactly right to work properly. There is about 1/8th of a turn between too tight and too loose. Too tight and the reverse knob won't turn at all, too loose and it self-reverses. Maybe the only advantage to this ratchet is that it has very low backdrag. Just cleaning the one I have didn't do anything to improve it.
When SK merged with French Facom in 1985, it seemed that the SK Tuff series ratchets and Facom ratchets shared common internal designs and parts. My most-frequently-used 1/4 inch drive ratchet is a Facom from ~2002 that used the same internal mechanism as this ratchet. I don't know if this particular ratchet design came from SK or from Facom. I think these are great ratchets, but the SK pro series had less back-drag when both were cleaned and lubricated. I liked this fine ratchet mechanism in certain applications when working in tight spaces in engine compartments, but when I had a lot of working room around fasteners when I used to work on cars, I preferred the SK pro ratchets with coarser teeth and less back drag. In any case, both lines were very good ratchets.
Many people don't realize that ratchets like anything that has moving parts, needs regular service to last as long as possible. Baring anything unusual, hand tools with regular maintenance should outlast the end user.
Most likely none...You would have to be a complete dumb ass to throw it away when it is obviously serviceable....never mind under lifetime warranty.Throw it away?....I seriously doubt it.This is practically the Best SK ratchet ever made.
People return ratchets for warranty, buy new kits, or throw them away all the time when the only issue is sticky grease. In fact, I bought a "broken" ratchet off ebay and that was the issue.
I always service all of my ratchets by removing the mechanism from the head spraying with brake parts cleaner blowing out with compressed air and then I lube them with a mixture of 80/90 weight gear oil and 3 in 1 oil in my opinion this is the best way that I’ve found I don’t like using superlube or rll the only issue is the ratchets will sweat out the oils and you just have to wipe it from them periodically .if I buy a used ratchet that is frozen I let it soak in a 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid first before servicing it works like a charm every time take care
maybe I don't get it but I hate theses style of head on ratchet, i had (and used) a half inch and 3/8 old Mastercard for the longest time, about 20 years, and I just started buying leaver head with push release, what I really hated is on my old the pattern you turn to reverse it is barely barely raised, it's always a pain to do with greasy hands , even on old Sk with the sort of middle raised tab I hate it
Appreciate this! You helped me put that wrench in good order in my own shop.
I really love all the ratchet cleaning, repairing & oiling videos
Same here👍👍
Thanks for the video!
I have half a dozen Tuff1 ratchets. I recently bought a new old stock 1/2” flex head ratchet and it was totally locked up. It would freely spin in both directions. I too found solid grease inside. A quick clean and lube and it’s my favorite ratchet now. I’ve got a handful of 3/8 and 1/4 versions as well. Once cleaned and adjusted I just love the low drag and classic styling.
Great tutorial..🙂 Makes me want to go thru all my old ratchets and clean them. 👍
I never understand why folks think a ratchet should be maintenance free?
Only disposable stuff needs no maintenance
I have the SK 1/4" ratchet you show here, with the heart spring. Like you said, the screw has to be exactly right to work properly. There is about 1/8th of a turn between too tight and too loose. Too tight and the reverse knob won't turn at all, too loose and it self-reverses. Maybe the only advantage to this ratchet is that it has very low backdrag. Just cleaning the one I have didn't do anything to improve it.
When SK merged with French Facom in 1985, it seemed that the SK Tuff series ratchets and Facom ratchets shared common internal designs and parts. My most-frequently-used 1/4 inch drive ratchet is a Facom from ~2002 that used the same internal mechanism as this ratchet. I don't know if this particular ratchet design came from SK or from Facom.
I think these are great ratchets, but the SK pro series had less back-drag when both were cleaned and lubricated. I liked this fine ratchet mechanism in certain applications when working in tight spaces in engine compartments, but when I had a lot of working room around fasteners when I used to work on cars, I preferred the SK pro ratchets with coarser teeth and less back drag. In any case, both lines were very good ratchets.
SK gave up inventing 50 years ago, the 90 doesn't count nor do the "new" wrenches. Garbage since the Wayne era
Many people don't realize that ratchets like anything that has moving parts, needs regular service to last as long as possible. Baring anything unusual, hand tools with regular maintenance should outlast the end user.
Dang, i wonder how many of these ratchets have been throw out just because of bad grease? Kinda sad to think about.
Most likely none...You would have to be a complete dumb ass to throw it away when it is obviously serviceable....never mind under lifetime warranty.Throw it away?....I seriously doubt it.This is practically the Best SK ratchet ever made.
3:18...I like to use Super Lube air tool oil... works fantastic!...🤷♂️3 in One oil works well too...
People return ratchets for warranty, buy new kits, or throw them away all the time when the only issue is sticky grease. In fact, I bought a "broken" ratchet off ebay and that was the issue.
I always service all of my ratchets by removing the mechanism from the head spraying with brake parts cleaner blowing out with compressed air and then I lube them with a mixture of 80/90 weight gear oil and 3 in 1 oil in my opinion this is the best way that I’ve found I don’t like using superlube or rll the only issue is the ratchets will sweat out the oils and you just have to wipe it from them periodically .if I buy a used ratchet that is frozen I let it soak in a 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid first before servicing it works like a charm every time take care
Hello again Catus Maximus and Tiny
First of all Happy New Year's to you and your family. What kind of oil were you using? Again thank you
Would you happen to have a MAC wrench breakdown? I have been eyeing a 1/4" bit ratchet on Ebay but am afraid if it's a dud, I can't repair.
Things might have changed because my 40975 does not have the same issue with the screw, and it does have the heart spring.
👍👍👍😎
Try as you may to Sh$$ on SK.....Fact is this is the Best Ratchet they ever made...and easily a LIFETIME tool.Just an absolutely fantastic unit.
👍
The 1/4" drive indeed has the full heart shaped spring.
maybe I don't get it but I hate theses style of head on ratchet, i had (and used) a half inch and 3/8 old Mastercard for the longest time, about 20 years, and I just started buying leaver head with push release, what I really hated is on my old the pattern you turn to reverse it is barely barely raised, it's always a pain to do with greasy hands , even on old Sk with the sort of middle raised tab I hate it
Round head ratchet=junk.