Hello, sure it is possible. URX rail is screwed onto a thread on receiver like on real steel gun. It is probably glued with thread locking adhesive. If you heat it up, should be possible to be removed. However be careful, as the barrel is attached via a barrel nut, which has counter thread in the handguard. Usually you have receiver, then barrel goes in, then barrel nut, and it already hold the barrel. Then you put handguard on the barrel nut. Here, as you see in my video, barrel nut is screwed into the handguard. It clamps the barrel, so the barrel is attached with the help of the handguard. So if you want to mount a different handguard, you need one that fits to the thread on receiver, and which has some kind of barrel nut because without it the barrel will fall out. In other words, all handguards that would be OK for a real steel M110 should fit here too. But if there are any airsoft ones apart from VFC OEM parts, I don't know.
@@frogengineeringairsoft Hi thank you so much for the information that you it really share it help so much . Because i am planing to buy one and change to full quad rail like Daniel Defense quad rail so i can put m203 grenade launcher under it once again Thank you for the information Keep making videos like this so helpful
I use Ra-tech 6.01 for everything, If I can get stainless steel then I use it, if not then the brass one. For cheaper solution I go for Maple Leaf 6.02 regular GBBR barrels.
Hi frog, I did this on my hk417, but the connecting part/plastic rod between the hopup adjustment and the hopup it self its bulging/bending up. How I can fix it? I cant reach the end position of the hopup like this.
I know that issue very well, this happens on all guide hop VFCs. You can have a look on the guide hop retro fit mod I do for old guns. There I print similar system for old gen HK416s, and to prevent that bending I add clamping rings on the barrel that hold it down: ruclips.net/video/DY3hqv0QQ50/видео.html So you can figure out something similar, actually both my HK417s have these components added because of the issue you also have.
Hi frog, I tried this now on my hk417 during a game. .45 and pretty sick range, but it was a little unstable. Sometime I had a good hop and sometimes just underhopped do you have tips to stabilize this?
Hello, its a bit hard to say with not much detail, but in general the causes of such behavior are usually the same. Probably you face one of the issues below: 1) Gen 1 hop up chamber which is tragic and moves while you shoot, 2) Gen 1 Buffer (black plastic with spring), causing bounceback and random BB loading, 3) Hop up bucking that does not apply much spin force on BB - the issue is that if bucking does not cause much friction, you must set hop to push on BB very hard. In such case, the force needed to overcome BB/bucking resistance is close to, or higher that force needed to push the BCG back. And sometimes it pushes the BB while BCG is in forward position, but sometimes BCG is already moving backwards, so pressure is "stolen" from BB by expanding nozzle-bolt carrier cylinder and it ends with a weak shot, 4) Hop up is set to high in general. You always have some +- variation in energy especially on 762 GBBRs, so it is visible on the shots. For example, you set the hop for joules you get in 95% shots, but this one shot is off. And hop is dialed in to such "on the border" condition, that when these 5% shots happen, BB flies completely differently. 5) Push-through - Hop bucking has no "catch ribs" inside - this is very important in 762 GBBRs. They exert a huge force on BB while reloading due to heavy BCG. So energy of BB, when pushed into the chamber, is high and something needs to absorb it. In R-hop style buckings, there is not much force applied from the patch to BB, but instead its applied on longer travel. So a BB with high energy hits into the bucking, and stops randomly under the patch. If it stops further forward, it will have less hop when shot. If at the beginning of patch, it will have more hop. Some buckings have special ribs inside, which are there to catch BB and stop it always in same position, before it even reaches the patch. VFC buckings have them, but are not high friction type, so they often cause issues like explained in 3). Maple leaf buckings have no such feature, so are extremely bad for 762 and catching those high energy BBs. For example here you can see a section: www.taiwangun.com/hopup-bucking-vsr-gbb/mr-hop-bucking-60-vsr-gbb-maple-leaf-2 Best are Modify X range, they have very high friction, and have 2 ribs which nicely catch the BB. For example a section: modify-tech.com/upgrade/bolt-action-rifle-parts/bolt-action-rifle-hop-up-bucking/xrange-70-vsr-ssp01-ssx23-mk23 How you can easily identify that its issue 5) is that you sometimes have a BB fall out of the barrel after reload of BCG and chamber is left empty. This means BB was pushed through and bucking did not catch it at all. Hope it helps, I got quite detailed on this. Maybe I will make some video in the future explaining that. But for you in general, if you have a gen2 HK417 I would say its 99% on hop bucking, you can investigate if you are one of the cases above.
@@frogengineeringairsoft Thanks for the detailed explanation. I tried the new 4UAD GBB Bucking its a 60 bucking, I have also a PDI 70 Bucking which one would you prefer?
I never had neither of them in my hands, so hard to say. I can't find any good section picture easily on the web. You can take out the chamber, put them in with the barrel, set zero hop, and try to push the BB through (without assembling whole gun). Just make sure chamber is properly screwed, no parts are loose. The one which will give you more resistance would be better for a 762.
Regarding hardness its not really good for comparison, because different materials or surface finishes will have different friction coefficients. In general it should be - harder bucking allows to put more force on BB with less setting - but in practice, soft bucking with good friction, will be better on catching the BB because its soft and absorbs BB energy during reload better then a hard smooth bucking. There is no good rule how to choose proper bucking, to many designs, materials, manufacturers. Therefore I simplify it to maximum - I found one type that works in 70% cases - VFC violet bucking, cheap, very durable one, so I use it. If its not working, I go for Modify X-range 65 deg and it works in 100% cases, gives more muzzle energy, but its twice more expensive and can be damaged much easier. And the only exception to this methodology is MWS system, where BCG has a lot of forward stroke dampening springs and features so I there even Maple leafs work if somebody has such preference.
hey frog - i have an issue with my m110k1 bolt carrier group and need to ask an expert for some advice. since you have so much experience with the gun, is there some way i can message you some pictures of the BCG so you can tell me if its broken/looks normal? thanks!
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Your videos are impressive. Its everything that GBBR community needs.
Thanks ;)
It made the difference
I am happy it helped!
Hi frog entertainment airsoft is it possible to change the handguard on vfc m110k1 i hope you reply ❤
Hello, sure it is possible. URX rail is screwed onto a thread on receiver like on real steel gun. It is probably glued with thread locking adhesive. If you heat it up, should be possible to be removed. However be careful, as the barrel is attached via a barrel nut, which has counter thread in the handguard. Usually you have receiver, then barrel goes in, then barrel nut, and it already hold the barrel. Then you put handguard on the barrel nut.
Here, as you see in my video, barrel nut is screwed into the handguard. It clamps the barrel, so the barrel is attached with the help of the handguard.
So if you want to mount a different handguard, you need one that fits to the thread on receiver, and which has some kind of barrel nut because without it the barrel will fall out. In other words, all handguards that would be OK for a real steel M110 should fit here too. But if there are any airsoft ones apart from VFC OEM parts, I don't know.
@@frogengineeringairsoft Hi thank you so much for the information that you it really share it help so much . Because i am planing to buy one and change to full quad rail like Daniel Defense quad rail so i can put m203 grenade launcher under it once again Thank you for the information Keep making videos like this so helpful
What brand inner barrel did you use and what length?
I use Ra-tech 6.01 for everything, If I can get stainless steel then I use it, if not then the brass one. For cheaper solution I go for Maple Leaf 6.02 regular GBBR barrels.
where did you get the wrench?
I bought it from WGCshop or other retailer some time ago.
Hi frog, I did this on my hk417, but the connecting part/plastic rod between the hopup adjustment and the hopup it self its bulging/bending up. How I can fix it? I cant reach the end position of the hopup like this.
I know that issue very well, this happens on all guide hop VFCs. You can have a look on the guide hop retro fit mod I do for old guns. There I print similar system for old gen HK416s, and to prevent that bending I add clamping rings on the barrel that hold it down:
ruclips.net/video/DY3hqv0QQ50/видео.html
So you can figure out something similar, actually both my HK417s have these components added because of the issue you also have.
@@frogengineeringairsoft Do you have a STL for it? could you please upload it to your cults page?
Where do we buy these hpa conversion kits? Didn’t see it on your Facebook page
Please contact me through messenger
Hi frog,
I tried this now on my hk417 during a game.
.45 and pretty sick range, but it was a little unstable.
Sometime I had a good hop and sometimes just underhopped do you have tips to stabilize this?
Hello, its a bit hard to say with not much detail, but in general the causes of such behavior are usually the same. Probably you face one of the issues below:
1) Gen 1 hop up chamber which is tragic and moves while you shoot,
2) Gen 1 Buffer (black plastic with spring), causing bounceback and random BB loading,
3) Hop up bucking that does not apply much spin force on BB - the issue is that if bucking does not cause much friction, you must set hop to push on BB very hard. In such case, the force needed to overcome BB/bucking resistance is close to, or higher that force needed to push the BCG back. And sometimes it pushes the BB while BCG is in forward position, but sometimes BCG is already moving backwards, so pressure is "stolen" from BB by expanding nozzle-bolt carrier cylinder and it ends with a weak shot,
4) Hop up is set to high in general. You always have some +- variation in energy especially on 762 GBBRs, so it is visible on the shots. For example, you set the hop for joules you get in 95% shots, but this one shot is off. And hop is dialed in to such "on the border" condition, that when these 5% shots happen, BB flies completely differently.
5) Push-through - Hop bucking has no "catch ribs" inside - this is very important in 762 GBBRs. They exert a huge force on BB while reloading due to heavy BCG. So energy of BB, when pushed into the chamber, is high and something needs to absorb it. In R-hop style buckings, there is not much force applied from the patch to BB, but instead its applied on longer travel. So a BB with high energy hits into the bucking, and stops randomly under the patch. If it stops further forward, it will have less hop when shot. If at the beginning of patch, it will have more hop. Some buckings have special ribs inside, which are there to catch BB and stop it always in same position, before it even reaches the patch. VFC buckings have them, but are not high friction type, so they often cause issues like explained in 3). Maple leaf buckings have no such feature, so are extremely bad for 762 and catching those high energy BBs. For example here you can see a section:
www.taiwangun.com/hopup-bucking-vsr-gbb/mr-hop-bucking-60-vsr-gbb-maple-leaf-2
Best are Modify X range, they have very high friction, and have 2 ribs which nicely catch the BB. For example a section:
modify-tech.com/upgrade/bolt-action-rifle-parts/bolt-action-rifle-hop-up-bucking/xrange-70-vsr-ssp01-ssx23-mk23
How you can easily identify that its issue 5) is that you sometimes have a BB fall out of the barrel after reload of BCG and chamber is left empty. This means BB was pushed through and bucking did not catch it at all.
Hope it helps, I got quite detailed on this. Maybe I will make some video in the future explaining that. But for you in general, if you have a gen2 HK417 I would say its 99% on hop bucking, you can investigate if you are one of the cases above.
@@frogengineeringairsoft Thanks for the detailed explanation! I tried the 4UAD bucking, and I have also an PDI bucking. Which one would you prefer?
@@frogengineeringairsoft Thanks for the detailed explanation. I tried the new 4UAD GBB Bucking its a 60 bucking, I have also a PDI 70 Bucking which one would you prefer?
I never had neither of them in my hands, so hard to say. I can't find any good section picture easily on the web. You can take out the chamber, put them in with the barrel, set zero hop, and try to push the BB through (without assembling whole gun). Just make sure chamber is properly screwed, no parts are loose. The one which will give you more resistance would be better for a 762.
Regarding hardness its not really good for comparison, because different materials or surface finishes will have different friction coefficients. In general it should be - harder bucking allows to put more force on BB with less setting - but in practice, soft bucking with good friction, will be better on catching the BB because its soft and absorbs BB energy during reload better then a hard smooth bucking.
There is no good rule how to choose proper bucking, to many designs, materials, manufacturers. Therefore I simplify it to maximum - I found one type that works in 70% cases - VFC violet bucking, cheap, very durable one, so I use it. If its not working, I go for Modify X-range 65 deg and it works in 100% cases, gives more muzzle energy, but its twice more expensive and can be damaged much easier. And the only exception to this methodology is MWS system, where BCG has a lot of forward stroke dampening springs and features so I there even Maple leafs work if somebody has such preference.
hey frog - i have an issue with my m110k1 bolt carrier group and need to ask an expert for some advice. since you have so much experience with the gun, is there some way i can message you some pictures of the BCG so you can tell me if its broken/looks normal? thanks!
Hi, sure, please contact me on messenger