Hey Everyone! Thanks for watching! If you like the video, please feel free to comment. Comments offering criticism are OK too. Regardless of what you think of the video, let me know how I can improve. Thanks again for watching!
Thank you for the video. Please can you share the full settings ( how you enter into tool database ) of the Yonico tapered ballnose bit 6.2 deg. my mostly concern is Flat Diameter(F)
Thanks for watching. I made a video specifically for entering the Yonico tapered ballnose inot the tools database. The video is here: ruclips.net/video/reVXmZlBdjI/видео.html Please let me know if this answers your question. Thanks again for watching!
Thank you for the video. I have only had my cnc for a few months. Am I seeing an end mill or is it a ball nose for the ‘hogging? The the tapered for a final pass? I use Vcarve desktop as well. Thanks for your videos.
To hog out the bulk of the material, I use a 1/8 inch down cut end mill, and if it calls for it, a 1/4" endmill for very large clearance areas. The second toolpath is not just a finishing path. but a full cutting path using the ballnose bit. I cut in 3 depths 1mm start/2mm flat; 3mm start/2mm flat, and 5mm start/2mm flat. The end result is a 7mm long plug (male side). On the pocket side, I let the tool path take as many passes as designated for the tool. Thanks for watching!
Very good and informative video. Thank you for sharing. I did notice that that is not the stock or the Dewalt spindle. What spindle are you using? I’m really leaning to get this machine but I would like to upgrade the spindle. Thanks
I installed a VFD spindle. I was burning out the brushes on the Dewalt too quickly. The VFD did require me to mill an aluminum mount though. It can be done, but the Z-Axis for this spindle is just a hair too wide.
Im new to CNC so please bare with me. On your final clearance tool path you said you set the z offset to the material surface. Im using Vectric desktop and I don't see that option. Great video many questions answered thank you.
When you set the dimensions for the job during initial setup, you configure X, Y and Z thicknesses for your material, and then there is an option in the same setting for "Z Zero Position". There, you have the choice of setting Z to the machine bad, or the material surface. I neglected to show that part in video. For that, I apologize. I am soon making a new video for a project I have coming up, and I will show everything from start to finish. Thanks for watching!
Does the radiused end of the ballnose bit cause any fit issues? All corners of the pocket will have a very slight radius, and the plug will have sharp corners. Am i missing something? Cheers.
Yes, I am familiar with his work. He is one of my favorites. I think when I viewed his tutorial, it really started to click for me. Thanks for watching!
I am new to CNC and I am not getting the speeds and feeds right. Can you share what your speeds/feeds/RPM setting are for your bits here. I have a feeling I am pushing mine to hard and I need something to compare to. LOve your work and one day I hope to be able to do this sort of beautiful work.
I feed both bits at 420mm/min at a depth of 2mm. My speed is 18,000RPM. The most important thing is to realize that your feeds and speeds are dependent on the capabilities of your machine. My recommendation is to test your bits. Test the speed, the depth, and even the RPM if you wish. Start slow, and then slowly ramp up your speeds and feeds. I cannot stress it enough. You must visually watch how your machine as you make these test cuts. If it looks like your machine is starting to struggle, back off the speed to somewhere between the current, and the previous speed you used. Thanks for your kind words, and thank you for watching!
@@tk.designs Thank you for sharing what you know and suggest. I will start low and work up and see if I can improve the issues I am currently experiencing.
You are correct! I have no regrets what so ever. The PROVERXL has actually been a very sturdy CNC. I did swap out the included spindle for a VFD spindle, as I wanted a little more power, and a lot less noise. Thanks for watching!
Any chance you can tell us what the male start/flat depth toolpaths you used. It’s kinda hard to see the #s you use. You said you do 3 diff paths. Thanks
Thanks for watching! I use 3 toolpaths for the plug. The start depth and end depth of the first path is 0mm and 2mm; the second path is 2.5mm and 2mm, and the final path is 5mm and 2mm. The first number in each is the start depth, and the second number is the flat depth.
Thanks for watching. When cutting the female pocket, the start depth is 0, and flat depth 6 mm. Because the depth is greater than depth per pass parameter, multiple passes are needed to clear the material. On the male plug, we use a constant flat depth of 2 mm, and get our depth by adjusting the start depth. If I want to cut a male plug that has total depth of 7 mm (to give a 1 mm gap to allow for cutting off excess), I would have a final start depth of 5, and flat depth of 2 mm. This means the tool would begin it's cut at a depth of 5 mm, and cut down 2 mm. The toolpath assumes that everything above start depth is cleared already. Since this is not the case, the tool would immediately plunge 5 mm, and then cut down the flat depth of 2 mm, or basically, it will cut a tool path that is 7 mm deep in 1 pass. We don't want such a big depth, so we break it down into smaller "passes" by creating additional toolpaths. I will create first, the start depth 5, flat depth 2 (final pass). Then I will create a start depth 1, flat depth of 2 (first pass), and then create another toolpath with start depth of 3, flat depth 2 (second pass). Finally, I re-order the toolpaths so that they are arranged as first, second and final pass. This basically simulates toolpaths in a scenario where the flat depth is less than the depth of cut parameter. Hope this helps!
Hi, and thank you for watching! You have a great question. The way I avoid the endmills destroying small details is to ensure that I simplify the artwork as much as possible, so that vectors have at least 1 millimeter of space between pockets. Some others may recommend cutting the fine details with the v-bit endmill first, and then do the clearing endmill, but I honestly have not tried that with much success. I have found if any particular element of the artwork has an area of less than 1mm, it tends to get destroyed by tear-out. Hope this answers your question. If not, I can try to explain in greater detail.
hi, i have a dout, you said you are using a tapered ball nose end mill and you puit in the v-carve tool box, here is my dout, the ball nose does´nt have a sharp point like a v-carve end mill does so how do you cheat on the machine, im using artcam and there is no way i can create a tapered ball nose in v-carve tool box, do i have to do some math so the software thinks it is usuing a sharp point end mill?
Thanks for watching. The bit is a Yonico tapered ballnose bit, 1/32" diameter (amzn.to/3KWteMb). I enter it into Vectric V-Carve as an engraving tool. 6.35 mm diameter, 6.2 degree side angle. This bit truly is a ballnose bit, but with a very sharp point. It is like a 12 degree v-bit. Please let me know if this helps. The link takes you to the bit on Amazon so you can get a good look at it.
Hey Everyone! Thanks for watching! If you like the video, please feel free to comment. Comments offering criticism are OK too. Regardless of what you think of the video, let me know how I can improve. Thanks again for watching!
Sir i have a question
Why don't you use passes in both male and female toolpath??
Keep up the good work. Just found your channel and I am already hooked on watching.
Thank you so much for the kind words! Thanks for watching! I greatly appreciate it!
Thank you for the video. Please can you share the full settings ( how you enter into tool database ) of the Yonico tapered ballnose bit 6.2 deg. my mostly concern is Flat Diameter(F)
Thanks for watching. I made a video specifically for entering the Yonico tapered ballnose inot the tools database. The video is here: ruclips.net/video/reVXmZlBdjI/видео.html
Please let me know if this answers your question. Thanks again for watching!
Thank you
Thank you for the video. I have only had my cnc for a few months. Am I seeing an end mill or is it a ball nose for the ‘hogging? The the tapered for a final pass? I use Vcarve desktop as well. Thanks for your videos.
To hog out the bulk of the material, I use a 1/8 inch down cut end mill, and if it calls for it, a 1/4" endmill for very large clearance areas. The second toolpath is not just a finishing path. but a full cutting path using the ballnose bit. I cut in 3 depths 1mm start/2mm flat; 3mm start/2mm flat, and 5mm start/2mm flat. The end result is a 7mm long plug (male side). On the pocket side, I let the tool path take as many passes as designated for the tool. Thanks for watching!
Very good and informative video. Thank you for sharing.
I did notice that that is not the stock or the Dewalt spindle. What spindle are you using? I’m really leaning to get this machine but I would like to upgrade the spindle.
Thanks
I installed a VFD spindle. I was burning out the brushes on the Dewalt too quickly. The VFD did require me to mill an aluminum mount though. It can be done, but the Z-Axis for this spindle is just a hair too wide.
Im new to CNC so please bare with me. On your final clearance tool path you said you set the z offset to the material surface. Im using Vectric desktop and I don't see that option. Great video many questions answered thank you.
When you set the dimensions for the job during initial setup, you configure X, Y and Z thicknesses for your material, and then there is an option in the same setting for "Z Zero Position". There, you have the choice of setting Z to the machine bad, or the material surface. I neglected to show that part in video. For that, I apologize. I am soon making a new video for a project I have coming up, and I will show everything from start to finish. Thanks for watching!
Does the radiused end of the ballnose bit cause any fit issues? All corners of the pocket will have a very slight radius, and the plug will have sharp corners. Am i missing something? Cheers.
You seem to be very familiar with Stephan Forseilles work. Correct?
Yes, I am familiar with his work. He is one of my favorites. I think when I viewed his tutorial, it really started to click for me. Thanks for watching!
I am new to CNC and I am not getting the speeds and feeds right. Can you share what your speeds/feeds/RPM setting are for your bits here. I have a feeling I am pushing mine to hard and I need something to compare to. LOve your work and one day I hope to be able to do this sort of beautiful work.
I feed both bits at 420mm/min at a depth of 2mm. My speed is 18,000RPM. The most important thing is to realize that your feeds and speeds are dependent on the capabilities of your machine. My recommendation is to test your bits. Test the speed, the depth, and even the RPM if you wish. Start slow, and then slowly ramp up your speeds and feeds.
I cannot stress it enough. You must visually watch how your machine as you make these test cuts. If it looks like your machine is starting to struggle, back off the speed to somewhere between the current, and the previous speed you used.
Thanks for your kind words, and thank you for watching!
@@tk.designs Thank you for sharing what you know and suggest. I will start low and work up and see if I can improve the issues I am currently experiencing.
it looks like you are using the Genmitsu PROVERXL 4030. Do yo have any regrets. i am going to buy the same one with the extention kit in a couple days
You are correct! I have no regrets what so ever. The PROVERXL has actually been a very sturdy CNC. I did swap out the included spindle for a VFD spindle, as I wanted a little more power, and a lot less noise. Thanks for watching!
Any chance you can tell us what the male start/flat depth toolpaths you used. It’s kinda hard to see the #s you use. You said you do 3 diff paths. Thanks
Thanks for watching! I use 3 toolpaths for the plug. The start depth and end depth of the first path is 0mm and 2mm; the second path is 2.5mm and 2mm, and the final path is 5mm and 2mm. The first number in each is the start depth, and the second number is the flat depth.
Sir i have a question
Why don't you use passes in both male and female toolpath??
Thanks for watching. When cutting the female pocket, the start depth is 0, and flat depth 6 mm. Because the depth is greater than depth per pass parameter, multiple passes are needed to clear the material. On the male plug, we use a constant flat depth of 2 mm, and get our depth by adjusting the start depth.
If I want to cut a male plug that has total depth of 7 mm (to give a 1 mm gap to allow for cutting off excess), I would have a final start depth of 5, and flat depth of 2 mm. This means the tool would begin it's cut at a depth of 5 mm, and cut down 2 mm. The toolpath assumes that everything above start depth is cleared already. Since this is not the case, the tool would immediately plunge 5 mm, and then cut down the flat depth of 2 mm, or basically, it will cut a tool path that is 7 mm deep in 1 pass. We don't want such a big depth, so we break it down into smaller "passes" by creating additional toolpaths.
I will create first, the start depth 5, flat depth 2 (final pass). Then I will create a start depth 1, flat depth of 2 (first pass), and then create another toolpath with start depth of 3, flat depth 2 (second pass). Finally, I re-order the toolpaths so that they are arranged as first, second and final pass. This basically simulates toolpaths in a scenario where the flat depth is less than the depth of cut parameter. Hope this helps!
the problem is that when making some special details, the knife will destroy the thin place. can you avoid it？Thank u
Hi, and thank you for watching! You have a great question. The way I avoid the endmills destroying small details is to ensure that I simplify the artwork as much as possible, so that vectors have at least 1 millimeter of space between pockets. Some others may recommend cutting the fine details with the v-bit endmill first, and then do the clearing endmill, but I honestly have not tried that with much success. I have found if any particular element of the artwork has an area of less than 1mm, it tends to get destroyed by tear-out. Hope this answers your question. If not, I can try to explain in greater detail.
hi, i have a dout, you said you are using a tapered ball nose end mill and you puit in the v-carve tool box, here is my dout, the ball nose does´nt have a sharp point like a v-carve end mill does so how do you cheat on the machine, im using artcam and there is no way i can create a tapered ball nose in v-carve tool box, do i have to do some math so the software thinks it is usuing a sharp point end mill?
Thanks for watching. The bit is a Yonico tapered ballnose bit, 1/32" diameter (amzn.to/3KWteMb). I enter it into Vectric V-Carve as an engraving tool. 6.35 mm diameter, 6.2 degree side angle. This bit truly is a ballnose bit, but with a very sharp point. It is like a 12 degree v-bit. Please let me know if this helps. The link takes you to the bit on Amazon so you can get a good look at it.
@@tk.designs ok, i will