This is a good tutorial! I would point out one thing though - the flat depth on the plug doesn't change the size of the "glue pocket", it changes the gap between the pieces at their surfaces. The glue pocket size is determined by the difference between the pocket depth and the start depth of the plug. So if your pocket depth is .2" and your plug start depth is .18", there will be a .02" deep glue pocket. The flat depth then is for leaving a gap between the surfaces (if you want one, for example some people like to cut the plug waste away with a bandsaw). If you changed it to something extreme, say 1", then there would be a 1" gap between the surface of the board and the opposing surface of the plug waste. But the glue pocket would still be .02" because that's the difference between a .2" pocket and a .18" plug start depth. Hope that makes sense! Cheers
Stars, thank you for showing these steps. Especially the milling and install of the stars. Most how-to videos skip this important step. Again thank you Sir for sharing your knowledge and your time.
One of the easiest tutorials on the subject to follow and understand. I have watched them all and this is the one I recommend to others. Thank you for making this!
Stars! Stars! Omg Stars dude!!!!! Wow you killed it! My father was born in 1907 and made his living as an interior finish carpenter. He would pat you on the back and with his deep Swedish accent say want to go get some coffee? He would love to talk with you and spend Time in your shop making things all day long and so would I! Thank you for making this Video!
STARS- Thanks for posting this tutorial. I've been running my shop as a legit business for a couple of years now, but I have somewhat pigeonholed myself and have to expand for a widening customer base. I hate telling a customer "I can't do that" and it gives them the impression that I'm totally clueless. I've half-assedly played around with inlays, but not seriously enough to learn it well. This has given me a lot to consider, especially using a TBE bit to cut with, and not a V bit. It's a concept I hadn't ever heard of, until now. When I have tried inlays, I almost always ended up with something that looked just okay, at best. Most inlays would be ill-fitting and/or have gaps in places that should have been tight. I'm glad I found your video, thanks again for posting!
Glad I could help! Nothing wrong with telling a customer "that's not my speciality". Done that many times, gives me a good excuse to network and recommend a friend.
I had watched Garrets video on inlay and definitely will be using those numbers but I am happy to see you can use a tapered carving bit to do the actual cutting. I feel the 90 and 60 deg v bits are too wide to make tight corners plus using the pocket method is excellent as well. Thank you for this.
stars. new to cnc, learning inlays. 3 days trying to get the numbers right, and can't figure out those rounded inner corners. i had watched almost half of this video previously and stopped, as i was looking for carveco and metric tutorials... today i solved the corner problem by doing pocket instead of vcarve, just trial and error, now this evening i'm looking for more tutorials, and refind this video, watch all the way, and realize i had only needed to keep watching for another couple minutes to have gotten the info i needed a week ago!. thank you.
Stars - Excellent video. I've spent hundreds of hours researching cutting board inlay methods and beating my head against the wall for months. Although I think I finally found some settings that work, I really like your method and I can't wait to try it. You've managed to solve all of the problems and at the same time, simplify the instructions. Great job!!!
Stars: I just ordered the bit to help in fixing my horrible inlays. Garrett has also helped me in some of the struggles I've had as a "newbie". Thanks for the info
I have read and watched several videos of ways to do V Carve and find this method works best. What I like is that it doesn't cut as deep (unless you want to) and this cuts down on the time it takes to carve something. I also like the way the tapered bits work in this method since they cut easily and clean. I used a 3-degree bit, and the joints were exceptional. Unless I have large areas, I don't use a clearance bit and the bottoms are exceptionally smooth. Thanks for taking the time to put this together.
Well, im stumped. Its been some time but historically I have had ok luck doing inlays. Been out of the shop for some time due to medical reasons and figured id kick out a project with a simple inlay. Using the exact same amana bit (46280) and 1/4em for clearing I have a very simple pocket with an island in the middle (think doughnut) using your exact same settings as in video: female pocket = vcarve toolpath start depth 0" and flat depth .2" Male plug = pocket toolpath, start depth .18" with cut depth of .02" I even tried using v-carve tool paths for both male/female ends and same result. The plug drops right it with play I can feel. Not a tight fit at all. Thinking maybe the original SVG was somehow to blame I imported the SVG again on a brand new project. Selected outer and inner vectors and did a v-carve toolpath. Copied the same 2 vectors to a new layer, flipped them, selected outer vector and created an offset of it and then selected all 3 nested vectors to create pocket toolpath. Im totally stumped as to why I have such a loose fit. The machine is a onefinity woodworker and I have not noticed any play in of the axis. no wavy/uneven cuts on any axis yet still have sloppy inlays, super frustrating.
Stars are looking great! This is a great help, I'm about 3 months into the cnc world and want to start doing some inlays, so thanks for the great info!
Stars, I just started my woodworking business and MURICA cutting boards are one of my ideal products. These settings are perfect for my testing for this week. Thank you.
Thank you so much for the tutorial. Really nice to see the physical examples with the plugs cutaway as well as the software walkthrough. About to try some cutting board inlays.
Stars. This was really useful, I’m using vertex vcarve pro and a one finity cnc. There is a steep learning curve but you Garret mark L and a few others are making the learning soooo much easier. Mahalo
I participate heavily in several Facebook CNC groups and one topic people need help a lot with is inlays. I see people throwing out all sorts of crazy numbers they got "from a video" that don't work so they ask for help. I have a couple videos I often send them to and/or quote numbers they should try. Your numbers with a .02 glue gap align with what I already have been telling people but I must say your video is better than any of the other ones I have seen on doing inlays, especially the part about using a narrow TBN instead of a V bit to get steep walls. I'm going to start referring people to this video.
STARS, What a revolutionary Idea. Completely different than I see everywhere else. Going to try this this weekend. Excellent video and explanations. Much appreciated.
@@GearheadDaily I see you imported your bit size. Is this available with the trial and how did you do it. looking for a tutorial on how this is done now. Thanks
Stars! That is the same bit that Broinwood uses! His inlays are remarkable. I have been using the vcarve path for my plugs, but next one I do I will use the pocket!This has been very helpful, it also shows that I can always learn more. Thanks for posting this.
Stars, and strips! Thanks for sharing this info! Looking forward to getting my hobby shop going. Last commercial cabinet shop I owned had a 14" table saw, miter box, quality spraying equipment, lots of air drills, misc tools, oh, and me! Now, looking at cnc point to point machines under 4k? Laser cutting under 2k? OMG, I would have gone crazy with this stuff back in the day! Now, in my 50's, no chance I want a big shop and a giant table saw. You work on this set up looks simple, clean, fun, and actually not over the top expensive to get into. Thanks for the video.!
Great tutorial! I was confused for a moment as to how you got the clearing toolpath for the pocket. I didn't create one for me, but then I saw you already had the end mill in your tool list on the pocket toolpath. Once I went back and added the end mill to the tool list, all was right with the world. Thanks again for an awesome, easy to understand tutorial.
Stars! I just discovered your channel and glad I did. To help you along, I clicked the like and did this comment thing for the algorithm. You also earned a subscribe as the info in the video is quality. End result is worthy of a gold star. ⭐️
Super thorough, and very helpful. Good explanation of the "Why" in addition to the what/how. I will say, though, could use a little more volume on the narrated at the computer parts
Stars. Woke up early this morning worrying about my inlay. Trying to do a double inlay. And prolly too small. The problem is that, according to common learned knowledge, I’m using a 60° v-bit. But this destroys the tail feathers on the firebird I’m cutting. Great fix you have here. But I need to try the female cut. Seems odd to use the pocket for it. Thank you.
Stars … great video! As a beginner in the cnc world this content keeps me understand better especially the fact that I’m using vectric v carve pro and have a onefinity journeyman! Keep up the good work and again thank you! You have a new subscriber!
Stars, Thank you for this video, it explains inlays as you really want to do them! I have the Amana 46282-K thats 5.4 degrees and so far I've used it for 3d reliefs, excited to try our your method, I subscribed :)
Stars...Great video! I was a little miffed at first with the downplay of the Vectric method - originally the Paul Zank method (a great friend of mine - RIP)...BUT, every thing you said was spot on and easy to understand and make sense...can't wait to give it a go.
STARS, man this is a great video. I am working on trying the inlay in the stars and this has helped me a great deal. I am planning on getting the 6.2 TBN very soon..Many thanks,
Stars Great video. I use the 0.0, 0.3 and 0.2, 0.1 method in Vcarve Pro. My primary bit is 1/4 inch carbide 60 deg. Never had an issue with fine details. Having said that, I am going to try your method as I am open to new ideas. I have the Amana bit you reference, but I've always thought of it as a V bit. Albeit a very deep V! Last thing, to remember concave vs convex use this mnemonic, a cave is a hole in a mountain. It goes in. Again, great video! I'm subscribed! So keep them coming.
Stars. 👍 I’ve been researching CNCs, inlays, etc for a year now and hope to get my first machine this spring. I’ve always disliked the “leave a huge glue gap” method and wondered if something like this would be a better option. Thanks for doing the research and providing your findings with us here!! Subscribed and liked. 👍
Stars,,, great job. I use easel but I am thinking changing over to vector. Its just when you get use to something its hard to change. I think you can do more in vector. Thanks
The biggest thing is pick your depth, then set your final depth to how much space you want under the piece and then make the start depth whatever would be left to get to your full depth. Lately I've used .3 depth for female .28 start depth for male with a .02 cut for mail.
STARS!! I haveto say this was excellent! I have a laguna CNC and use Aspire. The 1,2,3 method aspire uses sucks! I have been attempting to reach Broinwood for sometime now in asking what depths they use for their boards as I really want to try a more complex board, however using aspires methods would fail miserably. I just finished a board that I am not happy with due to the hollow sound it has from the inlay. I am going to try your method on a more complex board and see what happens. I have the bit you recommend already in my tool kit, and I understand the 15 degree bit is another great one to use. Thank you very much for this great tutorial....thewoodwright
Thanks! I have watched the Broinwood videos and I believe this method is very close if not exactly what they do. It wasn't too hard to reverse engineer.
My project was for 3-lines of text and a swirling design above and below that. (This is not my 1st inlay but it is my 1st time using this method). I watched the video multiple times to make sure I got it right but. I went slow with my carving and cleaned up any burrs after. No matter what I did, the 2 pieces would not fit together. I used a new 4.8 degree tapered ballnose and both pieces carved very well. But again even with a little "mallet convincing", there was no way that these would join together. Fortunately, I used scrap wood that was surfaced but I am at a loss as to why this did not work out.
That use of a fine tip ball-nose bit and pocketing the male part is genius! But I don't like the idea of fixed values for the different depths. I think they depend on the size of the inlay, the woods being used, the grain orientation and the accuracy / rigidity of your machine. Choose the size of gap you want to have between the male (plug) piece and the female (inlaid) piece for the saw blade ( the "saw gap"). Then choose the amount of space you need for the glue gap - that will depend on the hardness of the wood, size of the inlay, etc but should be as small as practical. Last, choose how deep you want the plug piece to fit into the inlay piece ( the plug engagement depth I call it). The deeper this is, the greater the glue surface on the sides. You can't rely on a good glue joint at the bottom - remember, you specified a gap there! Then you have defined all the cut depths you need. For the female part your start depth is zero and flat depth is plug engagement depth plus the glue gap. For the male piece, the start depth (in Vectric vcarve) is the saw gap, and the flat depth is the plug engagement depth.
Oops, I made a mistake - for the male piece the START depth is the plug engagement depth and the FLAT depth is the saw gap. Sorry folks for the boo-boo!
I have done so much experimenting with inlays, but I've never thought of using a ball nose. I wouldn't think that you could get a sharp corner with a round tip. That being said, I'm n the middle of doing a couple of cutting boards with inlays, and i'm dying to try your method. Thanks for the video!
Stars - Thank you so much for this video. My friend used this method to do a small inlay of the state of Texas and it worked perfectly. I tried it with a simple half moon and it is horribly sloppy. We tried it on my friend's machine and got the same sloppy results. We used your recommendations of cutting the pocket to .2 and the plug with a 0.18/0.02. We thought maybe my z probe thickness wasn't calibrated properly but when we measured it the value was spot on. Please let me know if you have any ideas why mine is not working? Thank you! Jim
Stars - A big thank you. Excellent, excellent video. I love the snap at the end with a little hammer tapping. Have you tested the outer boundaries of how deeply you can make the negative cut? I'm guessing it's only limited by the depth of the cut on the bit, yes?
Stars. And here I thought I was a smarty-pants thinking of creating a flag board with purpleheart.... I'm just getting started with CNC, so I know next to nothing. This is tremendously helpful. I was trying to get it done in Easel (don't laugh, I know, I know), but can't figure out how to get the "male" piece done. Now, I have a better idea of what to do. Thanks!
This is a good tutorial! I would point out one thing though - the flat depth on the plug doesn't change the size of the "glue pocket", it changes the gap between the pieces at their surfaces. The glue pocket size is determined by the difference between the pocket depth and the start depth of the plug. So if your pocket depth is .2" and your plug start depth is .18", there will be a .02" deep glue pocket. The flat depth then is for leaving a gap between the surfaces (if you want one, for example some people like to cut the plug waste away with a bandsaw). If you changed it to something extreme, say 1", then there would be a 1" gap between the surface of the board and the opposing surface of the plug waste. But the glue pocket would still be .02" because that's the difference between a .2" pocket and a .18" plug start depth. Hope that makes sense! Cheers
Stars…I started with the second video. Your process makes so much sense. The style and pacing of your videos is outstanding. Thank you!
Thanks for the note! :)
Stars, thank you for showing these steps. Especially the milling and install of the stars. Most how-to videos skip this important step. Again thank you Sir for sharing your knowledge and your time.
Glad it was helpful!
One of the easiest tutorials on the subject to follow and understand. I have watched them all and this is the one I recommend to others. Thank you for making this!
Thank you!
Stars! Stars! Omg Stars dude!!!!! Wow you killed it! My father was born in 1907 and made his living as an interior finish carpenter. He would pat you on the back and with his deep Swedish accent say want to go get some coffee? He would love to talk with you and spend
Time in your shop making things all day long and so would I! Thank you for making this
Video!
You had me at Swedish finish carpenter LOL!
@@GearheadDaily ha! Yea back in the day it was all by hand. I was looking for the brand and model of CNBC you were using. Did I miss that?
@@prophotoservices I'm using a Onefinity. is that what you were looking for/
STARS- Thanks for posting this tutorial. I've been running my shop as a legit business for a couple of years now, but I have somewhat pigeonholed myself and have to expand for a widening customer base. I hate telling a customer "I can't do that" and it gives them the impression that I'm totally clueless. I've half-assedly played around with inlays, but not seriously enough to learn it well. This has given me a lot to consider, especially using a TBE bit to cut with, and not a V bit. It's a concept I hadn't ever heard of, until now. When I have tried inlays, I almost always ended up with something that looked just okay, at best. Most inlays would be ill-fitting and/or have gaps in places that should have been tight. I'm glad I found your video, thanks again for posting!
Glad I could help!
Nothing wrong with telling a customer "that's not my speciality". Done that many times, gives me a good excuse to network and recommend a friend.
have you tried it ? it didnt work for me
Great tutorial. The value for me was the confirmation that "your work is as good as your tools". Thank you.
Glad I could help :)
I had watched Garrets video on inlay and definitely will be using those numbers but I am happy to see you can use a tapered carving bit to do the actual cutting. I feel the 90 and 60 deg v bits are too wide to make tight corners plus using the pocket method is excellent as well. Thank you for this.
Hope it works out for you :)
stars. new to cnc, learning inlays. 3 days trying to get the numbers right, and can't figure out those rounded inner corners. i had watched almost half of this video previously and stopped, as i was looking for carveco and metric tutorials... today i solved the corner problem by doing pocket instead of vcarve, just trial and error, now this evening i'm looking for more tutorials, and refind this video, watch all the way, and realize i had only needed to keep watching for another couple minutes to have gotten the info i needed a week ago!. thank you.
Glad i could help! Tell your friends and sub if you can :)
I have used this video multiple times for doing inlays and they come out perfect every time. Thank you!
Wonderful! Glad it helped :)
can you please help its not working for me . can you show how you are doing it
Stars - Excellent video. I've spent hundreds of hours researching cutting board inlay methods and beating my head against the wall for months. Although I think I finally found some settings that work, I really like your method and I can't wait to try it. You've managed to solve all of the problems and at the same time, simplify the instructions. Great job!!!
Very welcome!
People have issues with it due to bad advice. This method never fails.
ruclips.net/video/evGaxSr7f2k/видео.html
Stars: I just ordered the bit to help in fixing my horrible inlays. Garrett has also helped me in some of the struggles I've had as a "newbie". Thanks for the info
Glad i could help, good luck.
I have read and watched several videos of ways to do V Carve and find this method works best. What I like is that it doesn't cut as deep (unless you want to) and this cuts down on the time it takes to carve something. I also like the way the tapered bits work in this method since they cut easily and clean. I used a 3-degree bit, and the joints were exceptional. Unless I have large areas, I don't use a clearance bit and the bottoms are exceptionally smooth. Thanks for taking the time to put this together.
You got it, thanks for stopping by :)
Stars, just wanted to give a shout out that even 3 months later your video is still getting watched 👍 and still teaching
Awesome! Thank you :)
Well, im stumped. Its been some time but historically I have had ok luck doing inlays. Been out of the shop for some time due to medical reasons and figured id kick out a project with a simple inlay.
Using the exact same amana bit (46280) and 1/4em for clearing I have a very simple pocket with an island in the middle (think doughnut) using your exact same settings as in video:
female pocket = vcarve toolpath start depth 0" and flat depth .2"
Male plug = pocket toolpath, start depth .18" with cut depth of .02"
I even tried using v-carve tool paths for both male/female ends and same result.
The plug drops right it with play I can feel. Not a tight fit at all. Thinking maybe the original SVG was somehow to blame I imported the SVG again on a brand new project. Selected outer and inner vectors and did a v-carve toolpath. Copied the same 2 vectors to a new layer, flipped them, selected outer vector and created an offset of it and then selected all 3 nested vectors to create pocket toolpath.
Im totally stumped as to why I have such a loose fit. The machine is a onefinity woodworker and I have not noticed any play in of the axis. no wavy/uneven cuts on any axis yet still have sloppy inlays, super frustrating.
Stars are looking great! This is a great help, I'm about 3 months into the cnc world and want to start doing some inlays, so thanks for the great info!
Glad i could help
Stars, I just started my woodworking business and MURICA cutting boards are one of my ideal products. These settings are perfect for my testing for this week. Thank you.
Glad i could help
Stars. Finally. A video that explains everything you need to know. And easy to follow and understand. Thank you Sir. Appreciate the help.
Any time, glad it has been useful to you :)
Thank you so much for the tutorial. Really nice to see the physical examples with the plugs cutaway as well as the software walkthrough. About to try some cutting board inlays.
Good luck!
Stars. This was really useful, I’m using vertex vcarve pro and a one finity cnc. There is a steep learning curve but you Garret mark L and a few others are making the learning soooo much easier. Mahalo
any time, glad i could help.
I participate heavily in several Facebook CNC groups and one topic people need help a lot with is inlays. I see people throwing out all sorts of crazy numbers they got "from a video" that don't work so they ask for help. I have a couple videos I often send them to and/or quote numbers they should try. Your numbers with a .02 glue gap align with what I already have been telling people but I must say your video is better than any of the other ones I have seen on doing inlays, especially the part about using a narrow TBN instead of a V bit to get steep walls. I'm going to start referring people to this video.
Thanks! I appreciate it. I really got into it and thought the numbers from Vectric didn't look right to me so I played around and shared my results :)
STARS, What a revolutionary Idea. Completely different than I see everywhere else. Going to try this this weekend. Excellent video and explanations. Much appreciated.
I wish you the best of luck :)
Stars, Perfect tutorial, Thank you. I am new to the CNC craze and really struggles with the inlay. This is going to allow me to make it happen.
Goodluck!
@@GearheadDaily I see you imported your bit size. Is this available with the trial and how did you do it. looking for a tutorial on how this is done now. Thanks
Stars! That is the same bit that Broinwood uses! His inlays are remarkable. I have been using the vcarve path for my plugs, but next one I do I will use the pocket!This has been very helpful, it also shows that I can always learn more. Thanks for posting this.
Glad it helped! :)
Stars, Thanks for this. Great idea to use that shallow tapered ball nose so that you don't lose the size of inlays as you sand down
Stars turned out great 😉 Garrett has some nice videos for folks just getting into CNCs or even just a new technique in VCarve.
Thanks 👍
Stars, and strips! Thanks for sharing this info! Looking forward to getting my hobby shop going. Last commercial cabinet shop I owned had a 14" table saw, miter box, quality spraying equipment, lots of air drills, misc tools, oh, and me! Now, looking at cnc point to point machines under 4k? Laser cutting under 2k? OMG, I would have gone crazy with this stuff back in the day! Now, in my 50's, no chance I want a big shop and a giant table saw. You work on this set up looks simple, clean, fun, and actually not over the top expensive to get into. Thanks for the video.!
thanks for the comment and good luck! it's certainly more interesting now with CNC tools
Stars
This is one of the best inlay vids I have see yet. I like the way you explained the tool pathing & depth.
Thanks...
Thanks for watching! :)
Yup, you hit it right on the money with the tool. Thanks for video!
thanks! :)
Stars
I'm amazed the difference in bits to get those sharp points.
Thank you
Glad I could help :)
Stars! Thank you for this tutorial this was the best one i have found so far!!! Really appreciate you taking the time to share your knowledge
Glad I could help! :)
Stars... Great video. Still completely new to the whole CNC thing, but your wisdom certainly puts me on the right path.
Glad i could help :)
I wish I could post a photo. I used your method here and it worked spectacularly!!
Perfect!! Thanks for the tenner!
Stars? More like Stares, as in I could stare at that inlay for days. Great tutorial!
Much appreciated :)
Great tutorial! I was confused for a moment as to how you got the clearing toolpath for the pocket. I didn't create one for me, but then I saw you already had the end mill in your tool list on the pocket toolpath. Once I went back and added the end mill to the tool list, all was right with the world. Thanks again for an awesome, easy to understand tutorial.
you got it!
STARS!!!!Just brilliant tutorial 👏👏👏
STARS, Videos like these make me want to get a CNC when I retire in a couple years. The stars look SHARP! Liked and Subcribed!
Thanks! its not only a hobby but a good source of income too.
Stars - Thanks this was very helpful, I haven’t done an inlay yet, but I will use your method. 😊
Good luck! I just did it again
Stars look quite nice when done this way. I liked your use of a steeper angled v-carving bit for inlaying.
Thank you!
Stars! I just discovered your channel and glad I did. To help you along, I clicked the like and did this comment thing for the algorithm. You also earned a subscribe as the info in the video is quality. End result is worthy of a gold star. ⭐️
Thanks! Much appreciated, glad it was helpful
Stars, this is absolutely genius! Thank you co much for sharing this.
Star. Excellent tutorial. Thanks for taking the time to make this video!!!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
STARS- Awesome video. Tried your system and worked perfectly. Thanks!!!
Glad I could be of help :)
Stars stars stars
Excellent tutorial, will implement the numbers you shared. Thanks!
Thanks! I hope it works for you :)
Stars looks like carbine tooling in machine shop very cool. I use to machine carbine inserts pockets for tooling back in the day
Very cool :)
🌟 Awesome! Even better to see it in person.
I think so too!
Grazie per aver condiviso la tua esperienza! 👏
No problemo
Super thorough, and very helpful. Good explanation of the "Why" in addition to the what/how. I will say, though, could use a little more volume on the narrated at the computer parts
Thanks bud! Ya, the volume didn't quite match up did it? I should have caught that. Thanks :)
@@GearheadDaily Yeah, turned it up so I could hear, and then FLLLLINNNGGGGGGG for that pop up "Oh hello!" :D
@@MosquitoMade LOL ya i got that. I thought I turned off the desktop volume, sorry about that LOL
Stars. Great insight! Thank you
@@jimGrime glad I could help
Stars. Woke up early this morning worrying about my inlay. Trying to do a double inlay. And prolly too small. The problem is that, according to common learned knowledge, I’m using a 60° v-bit. But this destroys the tail feathers on the firebird I’m cutting. Great fix you have here. But I need to try the female cut. Seems odd to use the pocket for it. Thank you.
Stars…love it! 👌😊
Stars, absolutely great video! I'm getting ready to purchase my first CNC and this was perfect for me to watch. Thank you
awesome! Good luck with it :)
Stars … great video! As a beginner in the cnc world this content keeps me understand better especially the fact that I’m using vectric v carve pro and have a onefinity journeyman! Keep up the good work and again thank you! You have a new subscriber!
Thank you! Appreciate the support. I have a tips and tricks video for new CNC workers too if you want to check it out, it may help.
Obrigado pelo tutorial (Thank you for the tutorial).
Hope it helps!
Stars.... Good tutorial ! Thank you. I'm new to Aspire and I love it, there is so much to do with it ! Keep up the good work!
Thanks! if you are feeling generous you can use the tip button ;)
Stars, Thank you for this video, it explains inlays as you really want to do them! I have the Amana 46282-K thats 5.4 degrees and so far I've used it for 3d reliefs, excited to try our your method, I subscribed :)
Ya, that's a solid bit as well. Should work really well.
Thanks for the video, I am new to cnc trying to learn. Good videos like your help
Thanks
Stars
Thanks! Very well explained. Can't wait to try this out.
Stars. BTW... your narrations reminds me lot of BourbanMoth.
Ha! I've been compared to a few other RUclipsrs but never him. He seems like a cool dude.
Stars, subbing on this vid alone. The trash cans r just a bonus lol
HA!! Lazy man ingenuity!
Stars - what a great video! You really explained the whole process well. Thank you.
Thanks for watching! And you got the word!
Stars...Great video! I was a little miffed at first with the downplay of the Vectric method - originally the Paul Zank method (a great friend of mine - RIP)...BUT, every thing you said was spot on and easy to understand and make sense...can't wait to give it a go.
Glad I was able to help :)
STARS!
STARS!!! You're awesome!
I try ;)
STARS, man this is a great video. I am working on trying the inlay in the stars and this has helped me a great deal. I am planning on getting the 6.2 TBN very soon..Many thanks,
Excellent, hope it goes well :)
@@GearheadDaily almost ready to do an inlay. How does the TB Amana bit hold up on the purple heart and what speeds are best when using the 6.2 bit?
@@MartyOfAllTrades usually 100in/min is what I use. Seems fine with harder woods because the bit is so small.
STARS. Good info thank you
glad i could help
STARS....Thank you. nice job
Stars great job making it simple and easy to follow keep up the great work.
Thank you!
Stars
Great video. I use the 0.0, 0.3 and 0.2, 0.1 method in Vcarve Pro. My primary bit is 1/4 inch carbide 60 deg. Never had an issue with fine details. Having said that, I am going to try your method as I am open to new ideas.
I have the Amana bit you reference, but I've always thought of it as a V bit. Albeit a very deep V!
Last thing, to remember concave vs convex use this mnemonic, a cave is a hole in a mountain. It goes in.
Again, great video! I'm subscribed! So keep them coming.
Thanks! I find this method much deeper and tighter of a fit. Hopefully you do too!
Stars, Thanks for the great tip.
Anytime hope it helps
Stars. 👍 I’ve been researching CNCs, inlays, etc for a year now and hope to get my first machine this spring. I’ve always disliked the “leave a huge glue gap” method and wondered if something like this would be a better option. Thanks for doing the research and providing your findings with us here!! Subscribed and liked. 👍
Awesome! Thanks for watching and commenting :)
Stars. Great tips! That will be an awesome cutting board!
I think so too!
Stars,,, great job. I use easel but I am thinking changing over to vector. Its just when you get use to something its hard to change. I think you can do more in vector. Thanks
The biggest thing is pick your depth, then set your final depth to how much space you want under the piece and then make the start depth whatever would be left to get to your full depth. Lately I've used .3 depth for female .28 start depth for male with a .02 cut for mail.
Yep, .3 seems popular.
STARS!! I haveto say this was excellent! I have a laguna CNC and use Aspire. The 1,2,3 method aspire uses sucks! I have been attempting to reach Broinwood for sometime now in asking what depths they use for their boards as I really want to try a more complex board, however using aspires methods would fail miserably. I just finished a board that I am not happy with due to the hollow sound it has from the inlay. I am going to try your method on a more complex board and see what happens. I have the bit you recommend already in my tool kit, and I understand the 15 degree bit is another great one to use. Thank you very much for this great tutorial....thewoodwright
Thanks! I have watched the Broinwood videos and I believe this method is very close if not exactly what they do. It wasn't too hard to reverse engineer.
Stars,
Great Video supper job, WOW so helpful and Easy to follow.
thank you
Glad it helped :)
Very nice video, well done. My question is: how do you get real sharp corners with a ball-end bit?? Thanks to share your experience
Stars - Thanks for sharing. Great info and instruction. Will be trying out the recommended bit.
Hope it works out for you :)
Stars! Great video explaining the process.
Hope it helps!
My project was for 3-lines of text and a swirling design above and below that. (This is not my 1st inlay but it is my 1st time using this method). I watched the video multiple times to make sure I got it right but. I went slow with my carving and cleaned up any burrs after. No matter what I did, the 2 pieces would not fit together. I used a new 4.8 degree tapered ballnose and both pieces carved very well. But again even with a little "mallet convincing", there was no way that these would join together. Fortunately, I used scrap wood that was surfaced but I am at a loss as to why this did not work out.
A lot of variables, hard to know without more info
Thank you
Glad to be of help
That use of a fine tip ball-nose bit and pocketing the male part is genius! But I don't like the idea of fixed values for the different depths. I think they depend on the size of the inlay, the woods being used, the grain orientation and the accuracy / rigidity of your machine. Choose the size of gap you want to have between the male (plug) piece and the female (inlaid) piece for the saw blade ( the "saw gap"). Then choose the amount of space you need for the glue gap - that will depend on the hardness of the wood, size of the inlay, etc but should be as small as practical. Last, choose how deep you want the plug piece to fit into the inlay piece ( the plug engagement depth I call it). The deeper this is, the greater the glue surface on the sides. You can't rely on a good glue joint at the bottom - remember, you specified a gap there! Then you have defined all the cut depths you need. For the female part your start depth is zero and flat depth is plug engagement depth plus the glue gap. For the male piece, the start depth (in Vectric vcarve) is the saw gap, and the flat depth is the plug engagement depth.
Oops, I made a mistake - for the male piece the START depth is the plug engagement depth and the FLAT depth is the saw gap. Sorry folks for the boo-boo!
I have done so much experimenting with inlays, but I've never thought of using a ball nose. I wouldn't think that you could get a sharp corner with a round tip. That being said, I'm n the middle of doing a couple of cutting boards with inlays, and i'm dying to try your method. Thanks for the video!
I hope it works out :)
@@GearheadDaily it worked well, but I didn't get the sharp corners like you did. I did a side by side, I should've taken a picture to show you
@@gregraso557 Dang, you should have
@@GearheadDaily I will take a pic tonight. I may have just done something wrong. stay tuned
@@gregraso557 Cool, looking forward to it.
This makes sense, except for flat depth start depth and glue pocket. But the idea just makes more sense than having to use a V-carve
I thought so! Give it a try and see :)
stars thanks again sir !
@@joetennant5316 glad to help!
Love the happy gilmore reference
LOL, i forgot... what did i say?
@@GearheadDaily it was the Tap Tap Tap when you hammered in the star - reminded me of that scene of Tap it when he was putting from happy gilmore ha
@@habitpunk LOL oh, ya that's a Simpsons reference too
Stars - Thank you so much for this video. My friend used this method to do a small inlay of the state of Texas and it worked perfectly. I tried it with a simple half moon and it is horribly sloppy. We tried it on my friend's machine and got the same sloppy results. We used your recommendations of cutting the pocket to .2 and the plug with a 0.18/0.02. We thought maybe my z probe thickness wasn't calibrated properly but when we measured it the value was spot on. Please let me know if you have any ideas why mine is not working? Thank you! Jim
Most likely you picked the wrong tool
Stars, thanks for the information it greatly helps
You got it, glad it helped :)
Nice job. I am excited to try this method.
It works well! Hope it helps
Stars:👌👍love it. Thanks
Any time!
Stars. Well put together video! I can’t wrap my head around getting sharp star point female corners using a ball nose?
use a very sharp angle bit and it will get in there very sharp.
Stars - A big thank you. Excellent, excellent video. I love the snap at the end with a little hammer tapping. Have you tested the outer boundaries of how deeply you can make the negative cut? I'm guessing it's only limited by the depth of the cut on the bit, yes?
Yep, the bit is what dictates that. Usually 0.5" is the deepest I'll go with that bit.
Beautiful video man love it!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks!
Amazing clean sharp
Thank you sir!
The autofocus problem is caused by the finished block in the background. The camera sees the high contrast there and uses it to focus.
Fair enough
Great video! Thanks.
Absolutely
Stars 🌟 beautiful video i love it
I'm glad you like it
Stars. And here I thought I was a smarty-pants thinking of creating a flag board with purpleheart.... I'm just getting started with CNC, so I know next to nothing. This is tremendously helpful. I was trying to get it done in Easel (don't laugh, I know, I know), but can't figure out how to get the "male" piece done. Now, I have a better idea of what to do. Thanks!
Glad i could help :)
Thank you for the stars
Stars, Great video. Thanks
You're welcome!