Yeah it's kinda dumb. I really like Ender 3 style printers, but the cooling electronics are totally garbage. I mean, it wouldn't have cost much more to provide 1 or 2 additional PWM outputs. But I guess that's not something a consumer considers before buying so they cut the cost there.
The thing people forget about cooling is ambient temperature. When it's reasonably warm I can get away with a lot less cooling. When my room is cold, I need a 5015 on full whack with a good duct to get PLA to behave. Just because you don't need much fan, doesn't mean that I don't need more.
No question that profile is more important than cooling. Anyone who thinks that is not true possibly doesn't have very well tuned profiles. Thanks for your hard work! Keep it up.
Based on your previous video, it looks like the speeds you're printing at mean that you're not close to the limits of your cooling setup. If you are telling your slicer to take 10 seconds minimum per layer, you're spending a lot of time just waiting because you're not using adequate cooling to go faster. If you were to increase your printing speeds you will probably start to notice a difference. It looks like that's what happened in Chris' video. Pushing print speeds will identify a printer's weak points, and something like the Hero Me is useful when that weak point is cooling. Making these types of improvements can result in faster prints with no loss in quality. One of the joys of PLA printing is the ability to push speeds faster and maintain quality because it melts and flows so well, and hardens just as fast with great cooling.
hey chuck, interesting video. however i wonder if you'll see a difference in print quality if you use a more complicated, or larger model. maybe test large scale bridging or large scale overhangs at 60 degree, 70,80, so on and see if the hero me fan duct can actually earn its weight in plastic. i feel like the benchy boat is too small and your print speed too fast, for any flaws to truly develop. but any way just some thoughts, thanks for these videos. love the series, look forward to the next.
Even on the video screen, I can see some differences in sharpness, blobbing, and stringing. I agree that you should get a good profile to use with the fan. Also fans are useful in overhangs, one use case of the fan. I think the “minor” changes is what separates just a functional printer from a high quality printer. These details matter differently to different people so ultimately it’s your opinion.
I can confirm the fan issue. I have an Ender 3 Pro , motherboard is v4.2.2; there are two connectors, labeled kfan1 kfan2 ; both are controlled by the "fan speed" (that I can change also from the display) ; this means indeed that when printing without fan (e.g. when you print PETG) the motherboard is at risk of overheating. Thanks CHEP for noting this
i think it all depends on the speed you want to print with. if you print slow, you dont need a fan. but if you print fast and rather small objects, a partcooling fan is a must. its really all about speed. i hope newbies read that and dont think the partcooling fan is obsolete. but its a good video, nice comparison and good results of the printquality :)
Certainly a lot of food for thought with your profile, Chris's test result and now that Creawsome mod. Another great video. I like you can Chris working together. Very kool.
Alright, I have definitely seen where small changes in a profile can make big impacts in the the resulting print. Could you walk through the profile and explain where you think these impacts are being made? It would be very interesting/beneficial to see how they translate to other slicers, or possibly can't be reproduced. Not all options are available in every slicer, and sometimes get rendered differently.
Chuck I did the same thing to my Ender 3 Pro. The only difference is that I connected a second fan directly to power. I purchased the new Creality Silent Board, which is nice not hearing my stepper motors, but I head that the board can overheat due to the PCB not having enough layers and copper for heat dissipation, so I just printed a new cover plate which added a second fan. Hopefully with the new fan and the OEM fan coming on at the second layer can keep my new board "cool"
Been using CHEP's magic profiles since I got my printer. Had all these mods in mind before I got it, and the duct was one of those things I questioned if I needed or not. Now its confirmed
Being new to 3d printing and doing as much research as I can I'm always learning that the slicer profile is key to a good print. I'm not saying I know exactly how to do it yet Hahahaha! You're completely right my friend and time tuning your profile to work with your choice of material is very important. Your videos continue to help me with this and I thank you for all your help!!!!!
you can't fix a broken machine with software, you do need a profile that suits your machine and it's capabilities, but the ender 3 is such a robust machine that can handle 20X what he's asking for, you shouldn't listen to him or "the first layer", both of them seem to spread a lot of misinformation fans are crucial for small details, small parts, and fast speeds you can push 300mm/s and 3.5K acceleration on that printer with Klipper or a 32bit board, the hardware itself is VERY robust, but there are limitations like processor speed, I'd say you can go for 60mm/s 800accel on a stock machine easily going fanless is stupid, unless you want to print at 10mm/s and take ages to print
a small tip I want to share with you over years of 3d printing is: don't listen to people on the internet, they probably don't know better always push the limits of your machine never underestimate the power of your machine I got an anet a8 running at TRUE 300mm/s 3.5K acceleration with Klipper firmware, how? because I always went for more, I never listened when people said it couldn't handle it or it would print like crap, now I can print super fast and I got the best quality prints of an anet a8 I've seen on the internet there's TONS of misinformation on 3d printing, be careful and always test yourself it's true that good settings are crucial, but don't try to solve a hardware problem with a software setting, you need fans to print good and fast your settings should actually be driven by your machine, not the other way
Question: Does that mean that if you run your part cooling fan at 10% then the electronics cooling fan runs at 10%? or is this only if the part fan is off?.
Yes, getting the profile right without cooling might be a good idea. But do remember that this is heavily depending on the environment temperature and the temperature used. I might even go further and say that a cooling fan might even decrease layer bonding. The hot material from the current layer heats up the previous layer so the layers will melt into each other in a better way. But for bridging and overhangs, part cooling will help to get the quality perfect but it also depends on the printer. I built my first 3D printer from scratch, and I mean from scratch: apart from the heater cartridge, the extruder, heat break, heater block, electronics and even the nozzle were hand made by myself. On that printer I did not have any cooling and that printer had very good quality with ABS. I printed the Venus of Milo head and only had minor drooping on the chin (no supports used). But part cooling will improve print quality, especially with steeper overhangs and bridges. I have visited a local 3D store and given some parts printed on a specific printer, I could just look at all the printers that they had in use and tell on which printer that part was printed. Part cooling does improve print quality, especially with larger overhangs and bridging and depending on the cooling coming from left and/or right side, the finish of overhang surfaces is different, if even just a bit, and this is visible.
Personally I run the Hero Me with dual 40x10 fans because it looks cool with the fan guard I'm running and it works at least as good. There is a slight improvement in print quality but getting to the bowden tube can be a pain for nozzle changes. The Micro Swiss I'm getting ready to install will solve that problem. Keep up the good work Chuck.
Aftermarket cooling ducts are for printing at higher speeds. Small models like the benchy generally have no benefit, as the print acceleration on the stock Ender 3 is so low that the average print speed hovers at around 30-40mm/sec at best. I'd like to see this test on a 200% scale benchy being printed at a higher average speed (i.e. 45-50mm/sec, meaning 60mm/sec wall speeds and 40mm/sec infill and top/bottom speeds).
Chuck. I really like your videos and they are very informative. I would have attached the electronics cooling fan to the power being supplied to the electronics board; board on = cooling on. Why did you opt for connecting to the extruder cooling fan? Thanks.
Agree with having the profile set up correctly, but better cooling will allow faster print speeds. There's no reason to think that if you have a profile that produces a good print w/out cooling that adding "good" cooling will improve it. With the hero me cooling, did you ramp up print speeds? Or use same print speeds and time per layer as w/ no cooling?
As an electronics professional I have to say that your tip for non-tinned wire in a terminal block is incorrect. The solder allows plenty of "squish" to make good contact. It is superior to have the tinned wires since you potentially have maximum contact area where loose wires may not be all in contact.
@@AdrenaIin you base this on what info? I worked as a trained USAF electronics tech - including high reliability soldering - then as a controls engineer making industrial machines. If I had to make a general rule lower gauge wires (heavier) are less affected by terminal pressure. Higher (lighter) gauge wires can benefit from tinning as it provides additional mechanical support to the very thin and easily broken strands - plus keeps those strands from straying away from the mechanical contact. The solder will not "creep" as you put it since the mechanical deformation is permanent. Far more likely to have the screw vibrate loose than a wire slither out from solder "creeping". The only reason I brought this up was because he specifically said it was a good idea to remove it. With the gauge wire he was using, likely 18-22ga, it probably doesn't matter one way or the other. But no point in unnecessary steps and it does make inserting the wire much easier.
@@TheRezolutionPhoto I took that info from a german norm (DIN VDE 0100-520) that lists this disadvantage of soldering the ends of stranded wires. A previous iteration from 1985 specifically prohibits tinned ends on stranded wires when the wire is clamped/terminal screws are used. The new version only states that those connections should be avoided, but if used the connection needs to be designed in a way that temperature increase, solder creep, mechanical strain in case of failure need to be considered
Chep, your profile is limiting the speed of your print from the default cura settings because your minimum layer time is now 10 seconds instead of the default of 3 seconds so on a small print that could make your print take up to 3x longer with no added benefit. To make an accurate comparison why not compare the default cura settings (3 second minimum layer time) with fan cooling on and your profile (10 second minimum layer time) and compare not only the quality but also the time it took to print each one.
this defeats the need for what chep says. I use the cr10 for larger prints most of the time and I hardly would have a layertime less than 10 seconds , up the speed by 125% for boxes and the likes and make sure i set my retractions high enough. a good PTFE tube works miracles on stringing.
I saw that you were only testing with a benchy model. What about more difficult models with different techniques? However I do agree on the priority of profile settings over upgrades.
I agree that a profile needs to be setup correctly over anything else, but I also think the hardware should be setup correctly too. Printing without supports, getting better overhangs and bridging capabilities are really where the improved cooling come from. I don't think you'll see those results on a Benchy.
Many thanks, nice catch of a design flaw, could not believe it at first! Also the cooling fan does not start reliably below 40-50 %. So it is practically useless to set filament cooling below around 50%.
I own an Ender 3 modded to direct drive and I'm reluctantly coming to the same conclusion as you. As sexy and these part fan designs with the 5015 can be, I've printed a couple and don't see a worthwhile improvement if any. I'm at this very moment printing my final attempt at having a custom fan and if I don't see any improvement I'm closing shop and just keeping the stock setup.
my ender 3 v2 stock shroud and direct drive.. did a good job.. untill it warped printing some PETG with my microswiss end then went to take it apart.. all the plastic is brittle from heat... I just ebay-ed a Ender3 shroud and will modify that for dual 4010 ball bearing fans... I'm thinking it's the best way to go that metal shroud is tough to beat..
Very interesting how you printed the parts. A lot of people recommend doing the bracket back side down and the cooler part front side down, instead you did both at the normal orientation with support and it sounds like it came out great.
@@FilamentFriday I agree, I have printed this a couple times but usually a few things print bad because of the overhangs and inability to generate adequate support. I think the next time I print it I'll use your way.
But what speed where are you printing at? I would be inclined to think that makes a big difference on the fan/no fan comparison. Print speed is a big part of dialing in a profile, are your printing painfully slow just to get good results without a fan or at the maximum speed that Ender will comfortably print?
I run my anet a8 with klipper and a custom frame at 200mm/s 2K accel and get better prints than him, at high speeds you really do need a fan, and high speed I'm talking about 60mm/s+, something he doesn't do, I don't understand why people underestimate their machines, the anet can handle 3.5K acceleration and 400mm/s with a good frame (not acrylic shit, but a printed frame with 3/8" threaded rods) it's just dumb to run them at 10-20mm/s to get fanless, crank it up and print at 60mm/s at least, such a waste of time and potential
Awesome video - thanks for that! Just one remark: Instead of switching the black und red wire on the fan itself, you should switch red/black on the extansion cord. What you did is matching the colors, but now the color/polarity matching is wrong the whole way of the cord, could be quiet confusing when redoing something later on and don´t remind the correct polarity ;-)
He just changed the fan connector. The polarity is correct in all wires. But yes, it's switched in the connector, so if one reconnects to the the original female connector on the board, the polarity would be reversed in the wires (and fan).
Ender 3 Mythbusters. I love these series ! I noticed that you use the fan for the electronics without shroud. Is your experience that nothing falls thru?
it's called software compensation, you "solve" the problem by changing a setting, but it's not fixing the actual problem sure it works fine if you don't care about print time, but I personally run my printers 80mm/s at the least, and plan on doing 200mm/s with the new hotend if you don't care about a benchy taking many hours fine, but I print mine in 30 minutes if you only print toys and aren't in a rush it could be fine for you but some people do want rapid part turnover and quick prototypes or very large / detailed parts, that's when fans come in, they cool the previous layer to avoid sagging while printing very fast, but I'm addicted to speed so I'm biased In that way, I've seen people who wait hours for small parts printing at 30mm/s or less, I just can't, I love seeing my print head FLY over the bed laying plastic
Hello, everybody, I've had extreme problems with PETG. With the cooling it works great now. The surfaces are sometimes better than with PLA. I used the same profile as without cooling. So it worked for me.
My results from using the Hero Me were slightly to a significant amount better (bridging). Try with a bridging test. I also installed a larger blower fan (using the provided alternative version of the Hero Me duct), but ended up using it at 80% power due to excessive vibration. Could be due to using a cheap blower fan, so I have bought a better (I hope) version, but have yet to install it.
Totally agree with Chep, with cooling you either get it spot on and it cools correctly or not when there is not enough cooling. I would say the profile plays a very big part in getting prints to come out right. To much air flow it effects prints, to little air flow it effects prints.
the profile stuff is where im lost with this stuff. ive been looking for some kinda tutorial that will not just tell me what to put in but kinda explains whats what, that way i have a little better understanding so i can set my own profiles to my printer, i could be wrong in thinking the profiles should be set to each print an printer but im new to all this and just looking for direction. would love to find a place that i could talk to ppl about this stuff so i could get some direct answer to my questions.
The more I watch these videos the more I'm convinced that the stock Ender 3 is just fine as it is for 90% of the PLA work most people do. The more I try to "Upgrade" my printer the more I mess it up and go back to stock. Now some might say it's because I don't know what I'm doing. I would agree that I'm a novice at 3d printing. But clearly you are not and you're showing no real improvement. Could you please try the same thing on a more complete print? Maybe something with smaller details and over hangs? The Benchy is a pretty basic print.
I have the Ender 3 pro and the only mod I did (and not a simple one I admit) that *really* made a difference was going direct drive. Zero stringing with a 0.5 mm. retraction at 30 mm/s. The rest - tried glass, PEI works ok but deforms over time specially if using higher temps, came to the conclusion their original bed is really quite good. Fan, slowly coming to the same conclusion - the stock is fine.
the only upgrades you should be worrying about are quality of life upgrades or specific use upgrades. with a standard ender 3 print a shroud for the circuit board. with an ender 3 or ender 3 pro you might want to consider bed leveling springs and a dual drive extruder. I personally like the gulfcoast robotics 3 point leveling system and I prefer a borosilicate glass plate for a print bed, but those are more lateral moves. a lot of people like an auto bed leveling system, but I don't care for them, I can manually level a bed in about 10-15 seconds and only need to do it about twice a month. any other changes you make aren't upgrades, they're lateral moves for improving your printer in certain situations. a direct drive extruder is handy for tpu, an all metal hot end is nice for polycarbonate or nylon, many engineering plastics like PEEK require an actively heated enclosure.
What happens when both of those fans don't turn on when printing? Did I have something short out? I thought just my nozzle fan was out, but then I noticed my circuit board fan was off too? I have one of those Silent Mainboard V1.1.5 coming soon, would that fix it?
Something is wrong on your board. Possibly something got fried? If the main fan on the hot end doesn't work the nozzle assembly may burn the filament :(
Chep!! Could you answer a quick question please. I've an Ender 3 V2. The hot end fans were making a racket, so I downloaded a Fang, replaced the fans :-) My question is... Should the top fan and front fan both be blowing into the fang? In my case the front fan is blowing onto the nozzle and the top fan is sucking air upwards? Either way i woke up this morning with 20 meters of filament all over my bed !!!
There is a difference. And i would look at the ceiling of that benchy. I agree, good profile do contribute to good prints but part cooling fan improves it when its needed. It did show as mentioned "slight/small difference" is a difference. Also, do you have a closer photos of the Hero Me fan duct? You said it printed "perfectly". I mainly print PETG and I'm curious how "perfectly" it looks like.
I just switched the part and electronic fan plugs on the board. Electronic fan stays on and now I can turn off the part fan with gcode. Almost as if Creality plugged them in the wrong spot, same on the skr mini
Agree. Had a lot of issues. People told me it were bed leveling, esteps and other printer related things. But it actually was the slicer settings. I had to overide some filemant setting for the PLA i used.
Looking at your profile, I see what you're doing -- print slow and at the low temp range of PLA. with very slow retractions and -- yes, there isn't significant need for additional cooling as PLA cools naturally as it's printed. Additional cooling does help, and the bow of the boat does benefit from it -- but you will not be able to print faster or with faster retractions without part cooling...and this is highly filament dependent. Also, the benchie isn't a very challenging print to begin with. I notice, you didn't try to repeat the bridging test with the ductape.
The Ender 3 stock firmware limits extruder to 25mm/s so that limits retraction. The bridging test used supports so didn’t see a need. Despite its simplicity the Benchy is a universal print that everyone understands so I stuck with it. Even Chris couldn’t reproduce my results until he used my profile. So yes, you understand the settings and why they work best on Creality stock machines that most beginners have.
Great video once again. I always respect your opinion and your methodology, and while i do not disagree with trying to find a great profile with no fan on, (it actually sounds like a great idea and will try to see how my profile fares first chance i get) the hero me has been amazing for certain of my prints. Every time i make major changes to my printer i print an extremely small, and a quite sizeable print to test how they compare to previous ones. True i have not seen much difference in big prints but for the smaller ones it is just magical. That makes me believe that even in large prints it will probably help with very detailed spots or at the very least allow them to be printed faster. Lastly, and again am no expert here, but i have mine lower than yours by a fair bit. Mine almost touches the buildplate when i have my nozzle homed. Maybe that is why ? I know you like to experiment and will be interested to see you do that with the fan duct as well. Cheers
Thanks for validating my concern about the case fan. I noticed it didn't ever seem to turn on and at first thought it was just a bad fan. With your fan mod I have more peace of mind that my board is not slow cooking itself over long prints. Most definitely appreciate the Hero Me review since there are so many cool, yet insane fan mods out there. I might still try some out for fun in the future but at least this makes me feel it it just something to try out and not a must-have mod.
I love your vids Chuck and I was glad I got to meet and chat with MRRF. would it be possible for you to do some bridging tests with the fan and without the fan using your profile? Also it's really difficult to see artifacts in the prints on video when they are done with white filament.
How the hell did you get the infill out, it has filled the print where the air flows ,plus this took me 5 hours plus just to print the bottom piece Please let me know how you printed this and how so fast?
I agree. The majority of what I print is abs, so using a cooling fan is not an option. It’s entirely possible to print pla without a fan too. I know because I do it on my fanless machines all the time.
This actually brought up a recent problem I've run into, which is uneven curling at the top of steeper (>50 degree) overhangs with the stock parts cooler, as it only blows on one side of the print. I've been looking into one of these DIY cooler alternatives, could be a fun weekend project, and I should have enough Tech-Flex to re-wrap all the wires. Without the fan, at least the curling is even and predictable, but alas, it still curls.
I used the same settings on your current CHEPV4.5_0.20(Medium) profile with part orientation and supports as you have them. My print time is 10h 5 min how is it possible your print time is 5h 46min?
I get 8 hrs 40 min in Cura 4.6.1. The original 3.6 was inaccurate as it took about 7 hours to print. Change inner wall speed to 50mm/s and it comes down to 7hr 47 minutes.
Firstly, thanks for some great videos, I have just discovered your channel and I am new to 3D Printing. I noticed that the 4010 cooling fan causes vibration through to the hot end, it is noticeable if you put a finger on the x carriage. Do you think this affects print quality?
@@TriggeredWorkz Yes, but its a pretty poor test. there are some overhangs and small bridges and shorter layer times on a benchy tho, so it can be a good test. But what else are you trading away to make this work without fans.?? Creating a proflie to work with lousy fans (or no fans) is a goofy way to go about 3d printing plastic.
Hi Chuck. I have recently came across an interesting find while searching for a ways to improve my print quality: Creawsome Mod. I did test it, and I must admit that, contrary to what I expected (because I uses a non-magic number settings), the results are really good. Any chance you could give it a thorough test on your Ender 3 ?
They used to laugh at me and say I was using a slicer voodoo I too have a profile that's amazing and I throw it on everybody I meet with an Ender 3. Thanks for the insight Chep
It doesn't have to be about a single major improvement. A 5% improvement here, a 10% improvement there etc. Before long you can end up with major improvement.
Have fun with it for a while and then upgrade everything. That's half the fun of these things. I've replaced all the fans, hero me 5015 duct, mks gen l board, bl touch, filament run out, TMC2208 drivers, EXR extruder and a octopi. Its an amazing machine now and prints better than anything else I have owned. Biggest plus now is the only thing you hear is the 5015 part cooling fan.
@@Potatogambit This is my 3rd printer. Had a small one and graduated to the Alpha Wise that is a CR-10 clone. I got so tired of screwing with it and I quit and ordered the Ender 3 mainly because of CHEP. I am not very excited to start making a bunch of mods to a brand new machine. Maybe I should send it back. ?
Stan Cook they print pretty decent right out of the box. I just wanted more features. I have all the same as a Prusha mk 3 now and it's got a better frame.
I installed creality 1.4 MB with TMC drivers and replaced all fans with SUNON fans. They are vapo maglev so they are rly silent. Installed 4020 on hotend, 4010 on MB connected parallel to hotend like you did, bcz TMC drivers gets rly hot and 5015 blower part cooling fan. 5015 and 4010 are 12v so i used buckconvertors. I figured out that PWM doesnt work through buckconvertor. So to change speed of fan I use the buckconvertor itself to change voltage and speed of fan.
you should add a disclaimer that fanless printing is possible but not practical tho, because you can only print really slow and you get a bit worse quality, any duct that blows cold air at the nozzle tip and the area around it is probably good enough for stock speeds (and please, stop spreading the slow speed trend!!! that printer can do at least 80mm/s with the max possible acceleration the board allows) if I can run my anet a8 with klipper at 200mm/s 2K accel with quality better than a prusa mk2 you can probably run that ender 3 faster than 20mm/s, its such a waste of time and potential
Im trying to get Amazon Basics PETG to work. Why do people have such wide fluctuations in bed temps using PETG? Some people are using no heat all the way up to 90C. On my Ender 3 pro with the stock magnetic bed and Cura Im finding out 240 and 85C with 100% fan, and slowed everything down to 40 speed with first layer at 25. Do I need to use stick glue ? What does Bed Heat actually do? Does higher bed temps make filament stick better or just flow more uniformly?
that stuff prints pretty good. I heat the bed to 70 for good adhesion and then drop it to 40 after a few layers. The hot bed is just for adhesion. Its not like abs where it needs to be hot the whole print. If you want stronger prints with petg youll wanna drop the part cooling fan down. I often leave it off. You want glue stick as well.
Thanks for the video. I was trying to print this using your magic 2.0 profile and for some reason it is gonna take 7 hour which is just over an hour longer than you have on the video. any suggestions on what to check I have always thought this was a lot slower than my other printers. I paused your video in each sec ton making sure to match it exactly I also noticed you have support walls set to 0 because of the preview section. but for some reason I am missing something which is slowing my print speed down quite a bit any advice would be appreciated
I also kept all the settings that I modified and switched to the standard ender 3 .2 profile with all the new settings and got closer to the estimated time frame in this video
I seem to be having a vibration issue. My Ender 3 makes more noise because the fan cover seems to be lightly vibrating against the axis. I've tightened all the screws, but it still is making the noise. I wonder if a printed piece would help fix the issue
Brittany Poremba It may, but likely not. The issue is likely with the fan. Try cleaning the fan of any loose bits of filament or stringing that could be stuck in it, or even switching to another one all together; this fixed vibrations for me. Fan bearings, especially the cheap ones Creality has stock, go out eventually. They’re consumables. This is a perfect chance to switch to a silent Noctua (make sure you get a buck converter)!
Hey Chuck, I have been struggling with supports bonding to my project or leaving major artifacts on the project surface. I have changed temperatures, Z Distances, Interface layer height and densities and thicknesses. I just haven't been able to hit that sweet spot, in regards to any filament...
I kept going back to the stock cooling shroud. Stuck with hero me now tho, as I added a 4020 noctua fan on the hotend. Works alright, but no improvements over stock imo 🤷
Great video Chuck! Thanks for the shout out. More testing to come I am sure. 😉
Cooling fan off does WHAT?!?! Who at creality thought that was a good idea?! Good catch!
Yeah it's kinda dumb. I really like Ender 3 style printers, but the cooling electronics are totally garbage. I mean, it wouldn't have cost much more to provide 1 or 2 additional PWM outputs.
But I guess that's not something a consumer considers before buying so they cut the cost there.
The thing people forget about cooling is ambient temperature. When it's reasonably warm I can get away with a lot less cooling. When my room is cold, I need a 5015 on full whack with a good duct to get PLA to behave. Just because you don't need much fan, doesn't mean that I don't need more.
Thanks for the re-visit Chuck, great info as always.
No question that profile is more important than cooling. Anyone who thinks that is not true possibly doesn't have very well tuned profiles. Thanks for your hard work! Keep it up.
Based on your previous video, it looks like the speeds you're printing at mean that you're not close to the limits of your cooling setup. If you are telling your slicer to take 10 seconds minimum per layer, you're spending a lot of time just waiting because you're not using adequate cooling to go faster. If you were to increase your printing speeds you will probably start to notice a difference. It looks like that's what happened in Chris' video.
Pushing print speeds will identify a printer's weak points, and something like the Hero Me is useful when that weak point is cooling. Making these types of improvements can result in faster prints with no loss in quality. One of the joys of PLA printing is the ability to push speeds faster and maintain quality because it melts and flows so well, and hardens just as fast with great cooling.
Thank you again for all of your hard work and sharing with this community! Your video's really help and I greatly appreciate it! Keep them coming!!
Thanks for watching.
Agreed - excellent content and I appreciate both the work you put into your videos as well as the knowledge you share.
hey chuck, interesting video. however i wonder if you'll see a difference in print quality if you use a more complicated, or larger model. maybe test large scale bridging or large scale overhangs at 60 degree, 70,80, so on and see if the hero me fan duct can actually earn its weight in plastic. i feel like the benchy boat is too small and your print speed too fast, for any flaws to truly develop. but any way just some thoughts, thanks for these videos. love the series, look forward to the next.
Even on the video screen, I can see some differences in sharpness, blobbing, and stringing. I agree that you should get a good profile to use with the fan. Also fans are useful in overhangs, one use case of the fan. I think the “minor” changes is what separates just a functional printer from a high quality printer. These details matter differently to different people so ultimately it’s your opinion.
I can confirm the fan issue. I have an Ender 3 Pro , motherboard is v4.2.2; there are two connectors, labeled kfan1 kfan2 ; both are controlled by the "fan speed" (that I can change also from the display) ; this means indeed that when printing without fan (e.g. when you print PETG) the motherboard is at risk of overheating. Thanks CHEP for noting this
BTW in Ender 3 pro the MB is on top and the fan is on bottom of the black case
Great stuff !! I'll be changing my fan wiring tonight, as I haven't used cooling since I got my E3 tuned up ( thanks to you !!!)
Awesome follow-up.. Thanks for all you do for this community
i think it all depends on the speed you want to print with. if you print slow, you dont need a fan. but if you print fast and rather small objects, a partcooling fan is a must. its really all about speed. i hope newbies read that and dont think the partcooling fan is obsolete. but its a good video, nice comparison and good results of the printquality :)
Certainly a lot of food for thought with your profile, Chris's test result and now that Creawsome mod. Another great video. I like you can Chris working together. Very kool.
Great job Chuck. Thank you so much
Alright, I have definitely seen where small changes in a profile can make big impacts in the the resulting print. Could you walk through the profile and explain where you think these impacts are being made? It would be very interesting/beneficial to see how they translate to other slicers, or possibly can't be reproduced. Not all options are available in every slicer, and sometimes get rendered differently.
Chuck I did the same thing to my Ender 3 Pro. The only difference is that I connected a second fan directly to power. I purchased the new Creality Silent Board, which is nice not hearing my stepper motors, but I head that the board can overheat due to the PCB not having enough layers and copper for heat dissipation, so I just printed a new cover plate which added a second fan. Hopefully with the new fan and the OEM fan coming on at the second layer can keep my new board "cool"
Been using CHEP's magic profiles since I got my printer. Had all these mods in mind before I got it, and the duct was one of those things I questioned if I needed or not. Now its confirmed
Being new to 3d printing and doing as much research as I can I'm always learning that the slicer profile is key to a good print. I'm not saying I know exactly how to do it yet Hahahaha! You're completely right my friend and time tuning your profile to work with your choice of material is very important. Your videos continue to help me with this and I thank you for all your help!!!!!
you can't fix a broken machine with software, you do need a profile that suits your machine and it's capabilities, but the ender 3 is such a robust machine that can handle 20X what he's asking for,
you shouldn't listen to him or "the first layer", both of them seem to spread a lot of misinformation
fans are crucial for small details, small parts, and fast speeds
you can push 300mm/s and 3.5K acceleration on that printer with Klipper or a 32bit board, the hardware itself is VERY robust, but there are limitations like processor speed, I'd say you can go for 60mm/s 800accel on a stock machine easily
going fanless is stupid, unless you want to print at 10mm/s and take ages to print
a small tip I want to share with you over years of 3d printing is: don't listen to people on the internet, they probably don't know better
always push the limits of your machine
never underestimate the power of your machine
I got an anet a8 running at TRUE 300mm/s 3.5K acceleration with Klipper firmware, how? because I always went for more, I never listened when people said it couldn't handle it or it would print like crap, now I can print super fast and I got the best quality prints of an anet a8 I've seen on the internet
there's TONS of misinformation on 3d printing, be careful and always test yourself
it's true that good settings are crucial, but don't try to solve a hardware problem with a software setting, you need fans to print good and fast
your settings should actually be driven by your machine, not the other way
if you want to see my printer take a look at @l3d_ush on Instagram
it's a true workhorse and the quality it achieves is amazing
Question: Does that mean that if you run your part cooling fan at 10% then the electronics cooling fan runs at 10%? or is this only if the part fan is off?.
Great video and solid analysis
Tune your slicer makes the most sense
Finally installed the hero me gen 2 last night with double 5015 blowers it looks awesome haha and in green!
Yes, getting the profile right without cooling might be a good idea. But do remember that this is heavily depending on the environment temperature and the temperature used.
I might even go further and say that a cooling fan might even decrease layer bonding. The hot material from the current layer heats up the previous layer so the layers will melt into each other in a better way. But for bridging and overhangs, part cooling will help to get the quality perfect but it also depends on the printer. I built my first 3D printer from scratch, and I mean from scratch: apart from the heater cartridge, the extruder, heat break, heater block, electronics and even the nozzle were hand made by myself. On that printer I did not have any cooling and that printer had very good quality with ABS. I printed the Venus of Milo head and only had minor drooping on the chin (no supports used).
But part cooling will improve print quality, especially with steeper overhangs and bridges. I have visited a local 3D store and given some parts printed on a specific printer, I could just look at all the printers that they had in use and tell on which printer that part was printed. Part cooling does improve print quality, especially with larger overhangs and bridging and depending on the cooling coming from left and/or right side, the finish of overhang surfaces is different, if even just a bit, and this is visible.
You are still on stock fans, I'd suggest you try the hero me with the 5015 fan.
Personally I run the Hero Me with dual 40x10 fans because it looks cool with the fan guard I'm running and it works at least as good. There is a slight improvement in print quality but getting to the bowden tube can be a pain for nozzle changes. The Micro Swiss I'm getting ready to install will solve that problem. Keep up the good work Chuck.
Aftermarket cooling ducts are for printing at higher speeds. Small models like the benchy generally have no benefit, as the print acceleration on the stock Ender 3 is so low that the average print speed hovers at around 30-40mm/sec at best. I'd like to see this test on a 200% scale benchy being printed at a higher average speed (i.e. 45-50mm/sec, meaning 60mm/sec wall speeds and 40mm/sec infill and top/bottom speeds).
I noticed better cooling ducts had a really good improvement on smaller models at normal speeds.
200 degrees C with PLA
Another great and concise video! That Chuck!
Chuck. I really like your videos and they are very informative. I would have attached the electronics cooling fan to the power being supplied to the electronics board; board on = cooling on. Why did you opt for connecting to the extruder cooling fan? Thanks.
It’s the same power on this board. Power on, board on, fan on. I may do a temperature control switch in the future for both fans though.
Keep up the good work chuck
If you want super slow prints... This works. But, I would still recommend using the hero. This will also vastly improve your bridging.
Agree with having the profile set up correctly, but better cooling will allow faster print speeds. There's no reason to think that if you have a profile that produces a good print w/out cooling that adding "good" cooling will improve it.
With the hero me cooling, did you ramp up print speeds? Or use same print speeds and time per layer as w/ no cooling?
Many, many thank's for your profile and this video..
As an electronics professional I have to say that your tip for non-tinned wire in a terminal block is incorrect. The solder allows plenty of "squish" to make good contact. It is superior to have the tinned wires since you potentially have maximum contact area where loose wires may not be all in contact.
Tin can creep under pressure and cause the cable to become loose
@@AdrenaIin you base this on what info? I worked as a trained USAF electronics tech - including high reliability soldering - then as a controls engineer making industrial machines.
If I had to make a general rule lower gauge wires (heavier) are less affected by terminal pressure. Higher (lighter) gauge wires can benefit from tinning as it provides additional mechanical support to the very thin and easily broken strands - plus keeps those strands from straying away from the mechanical contact. The solder will not "creep" as you put it since the mechanical deformation is permanent. Far more likely to have the screw vibrate loose than a wire slither out from solder "creeping".
The only reason I brought this up was because he specifically said it was a good idea to remove it. With the gauge wire he was using, likely 18-22ga, it probably doesn't matter one way or the other. But no point in unnecessary steps and it does make inserting the wire much easier.
@@TheRezolutionPhoto I took that info from a german norm (DIN VDE 0100-520) that lists this disadvantage of soldering the ends of stranded wires. A previous iteration from 1985 specifically prohibits tinned ends on stranded wires when the wire is clamped/terminal screws are used. The new version only states that those connections should be avoided, but if used the connection needs to be designed in a way that temperature increase, solder creep, mechanical strain in case of failure need to be considered
Keep up the great work and your profile rocks. My prints come out great. Thank you for all you work.
Thanks for watching and subscribing.
Chep, your profile is limiting the speed of your print from the default cura settings because your minimum layer time is now 10 seconds instead of the default of 3 seconds so on a small print that could make your print take up to 3x longer with no added benefit. To make an accurate comparison why not compare the default cura settings (3 second minimum layer time) with fan cooling on and your profile (10 second minimum layer time) and compare not only the quality but also the time it took to print each one.
Can't agree more
I’ve tested that and the results I get are better. The fan will allow faster printing but not better prints. Quality over speed.
CHEP awesome, but does that mean fan can provide, not better but at least same quality with less time in this sense ?
this defeats the need for what chep says.
I use the cr10 for larger prints most of the time and I hardly would have a layertime less than 10 seconds ,
up the speed by 125% for boxes and the likes and make sure i set my retractions high enough.
a good PTFE tube works miracles on stringing.
I saw that you were only testing with a benchy model. What about more difficult models with different techniques? However I do agree on the priority of profile settings over upgrades.
I agree that a profile needs to be setup correctly over anything else, but I also think the hardware should be setup correctly too. Printing without supports, getting better overhangs and bridging capabilities are really where the improved cooling come from. I don't think you'll see those results on a Benchy.
dude. actual 3d printing god. thank you very much for this info!
Many thanks, nice catch of a design flaw, could not believe it at first! Also the cooling fan does not start reliably below 40-50 %. So it is practically useless to set filament cooling below around 50%.
I love all the Ender 3 videos! I have 2 of the Ender 3 Pros Love them. They do a lot of printing.
Well, the Hero Me ducting sure looks much cooler. :)
I own an Ender 3 modded to direct drive and I'm reluctantly coming to the same conclusion as you. As sexy and these part fan designs with the 5015 can be, I've printed a couple and don't see a worthwhile improvement if any. I'm at this very moment printing my final attempt at having a custom fan and if I don't see any improvement I'm closing shop and just keeping the stock setup.
my ender 3 v2 stock shroud and direct drive.. did a good job.. untill it warped printing some PETG with my microswiss end then went to take it apart.. all the plastic is brittle from heat... I just ebay-ed a Ender3 shroud and will modify that for dual 4010 ball bearing fans... I'm thinking it's the best way to go that metal shroud is tough to beat..
please make a video about creawsomemod
Very interesting how you printed the parts. A lot of people recommend doing the bracket back side down and the cooler part front side down, instead you did both at the normal orientation with support and it sounds like it came out great.
The recommendations didn’t make sense to me so I did it the way I showed.
@@FilamentFriday I agree, I have printed this a couple times but usually a few things print bad because of the overhangs and inability to generate adequate support. I think the next time I print it I'll use your way.
But what speed where are you printing at? I would be inclined to think that makes a big difference on the fan/no fan comparison. Print speed is a big part of dialing in a profile, are your printing painfully slow just to get good results without a fan or at the maximum speed that Ender will comfortably print?
I run my anet a8 with klipper and a custom frame at 200mm/s 2K accel and get better prints than him, at high speeds you really do need a fan, and high speed I'm talking about 60mm/s+, something he doesn't do, I don't understand why people underestimate their machines, the anet can handle 3.5K acceleration and 400mm/s with a good frame (not acrylic shit, but a printed frame with 3/8" threaded rods)
it's just dumb to run them at 10-20mm/s to get fanless, crank it up and print at 60mm/s at least, such a waste of time and potential
Awesome video - thanks for that! Just one remark: Instead of switching the black und red wire on the fan itself, you should switch red/black on the extansion cord.
What you did is matching the colors, but now the color/polarity matching is wrong the whole way of the cord, could be quiet confusing when redoing something later on and don´t remind the correct polarity ;-)
He just changed the fan connector. The polarity is correct in all wires. But yes, it's switched in the connector, so if one reconnects to the the original female connector on the board, the polarity would be reversed in the wires (and fan).
Ender 3 Mythbusters. I love these series !
I noticed that you use the fan for the electronics without shroud. Is your experience that nothing falls thru?
it's called software compensation, you "solve" the problem by changing a setting, but it's not fixing the actual problem
sure it works fine if you don't care about print time, but I personally run my printers 80mm/s at the least, and plan on doing 200mm/s with the new hotend
if you don't care about a benchy taking many hours fine, but I print mine in 30 minutes
if you only print toys and aren't in a rush it could be fine for you
but some people do want rapid part turnover and quick prototypes or very large / detailed parts, that's when fans come in, they cool the previous layer to avoid sagging while printing very fast, but I'm addicted to speed so I'm biased In that way, I've seen people who wait hours for small parts printing at 30mm/s or less, I just can't, I love seeing my print head FLY over the bed laying plastic
Hello, everybody,
I've had extreme problems with PETG. With the cooling it works great now. The surfaces are sometimes better than with PLA. I used the same profile as without cooling. So it worked for me.
My results from using the Hero Me were slightly to a significant amount better (bridging). Try with a bridging test.
I also installed a larger blower fan (using the provided alternative version of the Hero Me duct), but ended up using it at 80% power due to excessive vibration. Could be due to using a cheap blower fan, so I have bought a better (I hope) version, but have yet to install it.
Totally agree with Chep, with cooling you either get it spot on and it cools correctly or not when there is not enough cooling. I would say the profile plays a very big part in getting prints to come out right. To much air flow it effects prints, to little air flow it effects prints.
Pretty impressive, dude. Great job! 😊
Is the fan really necessary? ive been running an ender 3 without the electronics fan for 7 months now all seems to be fine
the profile stuff is where im lost with this stuff. ive been looking for some kinda tutorial that will not just tell me what to put in but kinda explains whats what, that way i have a little better understanding so i can set my own profiles to my printer, i could be wrong in thinking the profiles should be set to each print an printer but im new to all this and just looking for direction. would love to find a place that i could talk to ppl about this stuff so i could get some direct answer to my questions.
Hey James! Try "reddit 3dprinting" they're a great and helpful community! :)
The more I watch these videos the more I'm convinced that the stock Ender 3 is just fine as it is for 90% of the PLA work most people do. The more I try to "Upgrade" my printer the more I mess it up and go back to stock. Now some might say it's because I don't know what I'm doing. I would agree that I'm a novice at 3d printing. But clearly you are not and you're showing no real improvement. Could you please try the same thing on a more complete print? Maybe something with smaller details and over hangs? The Benchy is a pretty basic print.
No argument here. It’s a great printer as is. Modding is just fun.
I have the Ender 3 pro and the only mod I did (and not a simple one I admit) that *really* made a difference was going direct drive. Zero stringing with a 0.5 mm. retraction at 30 mm/s. The rest - tried glass, PEI works ok but deforms over time specially if using higher temps, came to the conclusion their original bed is really quite good. Fan, slowly coming to the same conclusion - the stock is fine.
the only upgrades you should be worrying about are quality of life upgrades or specific use upgrades. with a standard ender 3 print a shroud for the circuit board. with an ender 3 or ender 3 pro you might want to consider bed leveling springs and a dual drive extruder. I personally like the gulfcoast robotics 3 point leveling system and I prefer a borosilicate glass plate for a print bed, but those are more lateral moves. a lot of people like an auto bed leveling system, but I don't care for them, I can manually level a bed in about 10-15 seconds and only need to do it about twice a month.
any other changes you make aren't upgrades, they're lateral moves for improving your printer in certain situations. a direct drive extruder is handy for tpu, an all metal hot end is nice for polycarbonate or nylon, many engineering plastics like PEEK require an actively heated enclosure.
Chuck you do a great great job on all yours videos thanks!!! Could you expand more on how to get the right settings again thanks
omg im defenitly gonna ask your tool kit for cristhmas, love it!!!!
What happens when both of those fans don't turn on when printing? Did I have something short out? I thought just my nozzle fan was out, but then I noticed my circuit board fan was off too? I have one of those Silent Mainboard V1.1.5 coming soon, would that fix it?
Something is wrong on your board. Possibly something got fried? If the main fan on the hot end doesn't work the nozzle assembly may burn the filament :(
Chep!! Could you answer a quick question please. I've an Ender 3 V2. The hot end fans were making a racket, so I downloaded a Fang, replaced the fans :-) My question is...
Should the top fan and front fan both be blowing into the fang? In my case the front fan is blowing onto the nozzle and the top fan is sucking air upwards? Either way i woke up this morning with 20 meters of filament all over my bed !!!
There is a difference. And i would look at the ceiling of that benchy. I agree, good profile do contribute to good prints but part cooling fan improves it when its needed. It did show as mentioned "slight/small difference" is a difference. Also, do you have a closer photos of the Hero Me fan duct? You said it printed "perfectly". I mainly print PETG and I'm curious how "perfectly" it looks like.
I mean anything can look good when "good profile" = printing slow. I think he would see more of a difference with cooling if he printed faster.
Thanks for the excellent video orientations, I'm from Brazil and thank you for your content, received one more subscriber and like
I just switched the part and electronic fan plugs on the board. Electronic fan stays on and now I can turn off the part fan with gcode. Almost as if Creality plugged them in the wrong spot, same on the skr mini
Agree. Had a lot of issues. People told me it were bed leveling, esteps and other printer related things. But it actually was the slicer settings. I had to overide some filemant setting for the PLA i used.
Looking at your profile, I see what you're doing -- print slow and at the low temp range of PLA. with very slow retractions and -- yes, there isn't significant need for additional cooling as PLA cools naturally as it's printed. Additional cooling does help, and the bow of the boat does benefit from it -- but you will not be able to print faster or with faster retractions without part cooling...and this is highly filament dependent. Also, the benchie isn't a very challenging print to begin with. I notice, you didn't try to repeat the bridging test with the ductape.
The Ender 3 stock firmware limits extruder to 25mm/s so that limits retraction. The bridging test used supports so didn’t see a need. Despite its simplicity the Benchy is a universal print that everyone understands so I stuck with it. Even Chris couldn’t reproduce my results until he used my profile. So yes, you understand the settings and why they work best on Creality stock machines that most beginners have.
Great video once again. I always respect your opinion and your methodology, and while i do not disagree with trying to find a great profile with no fan on, (it actually sounds like a great idea and will try to see how my profile fares first chance i get) the hero me has been amazing for certain of my prints. Every time i make major changes to my printer i print an extremely small, and a quite sizeable print to test how they compare to previous ones. True i have not seen much difference in big prints but for the smaller ones it is just magical. That makes me believe that even in large prints it will probably help with very detailed spots or at the very least allow them to be printed faster.
Lastly, and again am no expert here, but i have mine lower than yours by a fair bit. Mine almost touches the buildplate when i have my nozzle homed. Maybe that is why ? I know you like to experiment and will be interested to see you do that with the fan duct as well.
Cheers
Fantastic walkthrough
Thanks for sharing :-)
The best Channel 3d printer.. tanks fron brazil!
Thanks for validating my concern about the case fan. I noticed it didn't ever seem to turn on and at first thought it was just a bad fan. With your fan mod I have more peace of mind that my board is not slow cooking itself over long prints. Most definitely appreciate the Hero Me review since there are so many cool, yet insane fan mods out there. I might still try some out for fun in the future but at least this makes me feel it it just something to try out and not a must-have mod.
I love your vids Chuck and I was glad I got to meet and chat with MRRF. would it be possible for you to do some bridging tests with the fan and without the fan using your profile? Also it's really difficult to see artifacts in the prints on video when they are done with white filament.
Mr.Butram - With large bridges you’ll need a fan or supports. I showed that in the first video.
In my case higher temp = better layer adhesion = more strong part.
So I use more fan on higher temp and get good quality and stronger layer adhesion.
How the hell did you get the infill out, it has filled the print where the air flows ,plus this took me 5 hours plus just to print the bottom piece
Please let me know how you printed this and how so fast?
Did you slice it with a high infill?
Maybe try with supports only from the build plate? I had the same issue while I was trying out the bullseye duct.
The real hero is CHEP
I agree. The majority of what I print is abs, so using a cooling fan is not an option. It’s entirely possible to print pla without a fan too. I know because I do it on my fanless machines all the time.
This actually brought up a recent problem I've run into, which is uneven curling at the top of steeper (>50 degree) overhangs with the stock parts cooler, as it only blows on one side of the print. I've been looking into one of these DIY cooler alternatives, could be a fun weekend project, and I should have enough Tech-Flex to re-wrap all the wires. Without the fan, at least the curling is even and predictable, but alas, it still curls.
So I mean it’s totally okay to print without fans with pla as long that you have good settings ?
Good video thanks !
I used the same settings on your current CHEPV4.5_0.20(Medium) profile with part orientation and supports as you have them. My print time is 10h 5 min how is it possible your print time is 5h 46min?
Getting 9 hours with the same profile adding supports... Also wondering how he's getting 5 hours and 46mins...?
I got almost 9hrs too
+1
I have 9h28min with the same Profile
I get 8 hrs 40 min in Cura 4.6.1. The original 3.6 was inaccurate as it took about 7 hours to print. Change inner wall speed to 50mm/s and it comes down to 7hr 47 minutes.
Firstly, thanks for some great videos, I have just discovered your channel and I am new to 3D Printing. I noticed that the 4010 cooling fan causes vibration through to the hot end, it is noticeable if you put a finger on the x carriage. Do you think this affects print quality?
Gary Tomlin - Maybe slightly. Interesting idea.
The cooling is only rly Important when printing overhangs a Lot
Cooling affects the print quality too.
@@TriggeredWorkz Yes, but its a pretty poor test. there are some overhangs and small bridges and shorter layer times on a benchy tho, so it can be a good test. But what else are you trading away to make this work without fans.?? Creating a proflie to work with lousy fans (or no fans) is a goofy way to go about 3d printing plastic.
Ive melted 4 of those Hero Mes... 2 in PLA, 2 in PETG. The fan is too heavy and warps the ducting.
Hi Chuck. I have recently came across an interesting find while searching for a ways to improve my print quality: Creawsome Mod. I did test it, and I must admit that, contrary to what I expected (because I uses a non-magic number settings), the results are really good. Any chance you could give it a thorough test on your Ender 3 ?
I’m planning that.
They used to laugh at me and say I was using a slicer voodoo I too have a profile that's amazing and I throw it on everybody I meet with an Ender 3. Thanks for the insight Chep
I know this is off subject, will one of your magic number settings work for lithopanes?
profile link dead. please post to github or somewhere reliable.
You have to register and get the bronze membership I think
@@Tikey1989 LOL!
Chuck, does your current profile include the Chazmeiser changes you talked about in an earlier video?
Jeff Haas - Similar but not exact. I found the stock firmware limits retraction speed to 25 mm/s.
It doesn't have to be about a single major improvement. A 5% improvement here, a 10% improvement there etc. Before long you can end up with major improvement.
Agree. Too many people look for the magic cure in a single item. My profile is just a good starting point.
0:13 *Cuts cable and ends video*
Do you know if the BTT SKR Mini E3 V2.0 has the same issue? It looks like it does.
Okay, Chuck, I am little confused. I have a brand new Ender 3 coming today. What should I do? Dumping the Alpha Wise.
Stan Cook use it and have fun. Download my profiles. Just make sure you use the filament fan unless you want to add the jumper.
@@FilamentFriday Thanks I have your profiles. So, do I need to make a mod for the filament fan?
Have fun with it for a while and then upgrade everything. That's half the fun of these things. I've replaced all the fans, hero me 5015 duct, mks gen l board, bl touch, filament run out, TMC2208 drivers, EXR extruder and a octopi. Its an amazing machine now and prints better than anything else I have owned. Biggest plus now is the only thing you hear is the 5015 part cooling fan.
@@Potatogambit This is my 3rd printer. Had a small one and graduated to the Alpha Wise that is a CR-10 clone. I got so tired of screwing with it and I quit and ordered the Ender 3 mainly because of CHEP. I am not very excited to start making a bunch of mods to a brand new machine. Maybe I should send it back. ?
Stan Cook they print pretty decent right out of the box. I just wanted more features. I have all the same as a Prusha mk 3 now and it's got a better frame.
I installed creality 1.4 MB with TMC drivers and replaced all fans with SUNON fans. They are vapo maglev so they are rly silent. Installed 4020 on hotend, 4010 on MB connected parallel to hotend like you did, bcz TMC drivers gets rly hot and 5015 blower part cooling fan. 5015 and 4010 are 12v so i used buckconvertors. I figured out that PWM doesnt work through buckconvertor. So to change speed of fan I use the buckconvertor itself to change voltage and speed of fan.
you should add a disclaimer that fanless printing is possible but not practical tho, because you can only print really slow and you get a bit worse quality, any duct that blows cold air at the nozzle tip and the area around it is probably good enough for stock speeds (and please, stop spreading the slow speed trend!!! that printer can do at least 80mm/s with the max possible acceleration the board allows)
if I can run my anet a8 with klipper at 200mm/s 2K accel with quality better than a prusa mk2 you can probably run that ender 3 faster than 20mm/s, its such a waste of time and potential
some people just don't understand the power of Chep's profile
Thanks
Im trying to get Amazon Basics PETG to work. Why do people have such wide fluctuations in bed temps using PETG? Some people are using no heat all the way up to 90C. On my Ender 3 pro with the stock magnetic bed and Cura Im finding out 240 and 85C with 100% fan, and slowed everything down to 40 speed with first layer at 25. Do I need to use stick glue ?
What does Bed Heat actually do? Does higher bed temps make filament stick better or just flow more uniformly?
that stuff prints pretty good. I heat the bed to 70 for good adhesion and then drop it to 40 after a few layers. The hot bed is just for adhesion. Its not like abs where it needs to be hot the whole print. If you want stronger prints with petg youll wanna drop the part cooling fan down. I often leave it off. You want glue stick as well.
Thanks for the video. I was trying to print this using your magic 2.0 profile and for some reason it is gonna take 7 hour which is just over an hour longer than you have on the video. any suggestions on what to check I have always thought this was a lot slower than my other printers. I paused your video in each sec ton making sure to match it exactly I also noticed you have support walls set to 0 because of the preview section. but for some reason I am missing something which is slowing my print speed down quite a bit any advice would be appreciated
I also kept all the settings that I modified and switched to the standard ender 3 .2 profile with all the new settings and got closer to the estimated time frame in this video
I believe I used 3.6 in this video but lower infill will speed things up.
@@FilamentFriday i found a way to cut 30 minutes off the print by changing the combing mode to not in skin
I seem to be having a vibration issue. My Ender 3 makes more noise because the fan cover seems to be lightly vibrating against the axis. I've tightened all the screws, but it still is making the noise. I wonder if a printed piece would help fix the issue
Brittany Poremba It may, but likely not. The issue is likely with the fan. Try cleaning the fan of any loose bits of filament or stringing that could be stuck in it, or even switching to another one all together; this fixed vibrations for me. Fan bearings, especially the cheap ones Creality has stock, go out eventually. They’re consumables. This is a perfect chance to switch to a silent Noctua (make sure you get a buck converter)!
You could try peeling off the fan sticker and put a drop of oil on the bearing.
I'm pretty sure its the fan casing vibrating too much. If I loosen one of the screws, the noise dulls massively
How did It go? i have the sane problem
@@fataldischarge1061 loosening the screw slightly seems to work for me
Hey Chuck, I have been struggling with supports bonding to my project or leaving major artifacts on the project surface. I have changed temperatures, Z Distances, Interface layer height and densities and thicknesses. I just haven't been able to hit that sweet spot, in regards to any filament...
No support is perfect. There are always a few rough spots.
do you have wrapping problems? The overture PETG I use (85c bed, 240c hot end), wraps crazy. I even have a Creality enclosure (the cloth one)
No, I don’t.
Do you know of a hero me gen 3 compatible endoscope mount...?
Can you point me to a video on how to upgrade my firmware 1.1.6 to the latest? Can I do it painlessly through Octoprint. Im scared 😆
I kept going back to the stock cooling shroud. Stuck with hero me now tho, as I added a 4020 noctua fan on the hotend. Works alright, but no improvements over stock imo 🤷
does the electronics fan and cooling fan work the same on the ender3 v2?