The best upgrade I did for my compressor was install a after cooler, and water trap, stops moisture in your air tank, affecting air tools, spray painting, etc.
Oh, that reminds me. I have a cooler that I could install before the hot air goes in the tank. Haven't really needed it much because I have some post tank cooling setup already.
I use vibration isolator pads under the compressor feet instead of having them on the ground directly, and also a 90* fitting with a pipe and ball valve past the circular base to make draining easy on my IR compressors.
Good work! For the oil drain, I ran piping, a ball valve, and a 45 elbow to aid in draining the oil away from the tank without making a mess. Makes changing the oil much easier, though a little extra oil is needed to bring the level up dude to some filling up the pipe first.
Interesting... I've been running the same 5HP single stage comp for 25 years with no motor issues. It was used when I got it and I've run the snot out of it... It's never had the oil changed either. I'm getting ready to put an IR 2-stage pump on it because I need the air pressure for my mill... I'm half expecting the motor to fry because of the change, but I hope it doesn't... If it does, I'll go with a higher HP and get a contactor like you've installed. I think that's a great upgrade... Glad to see IR reached out to make it right.
Maybe of interest to some. I connected a tee off of my existing pressure switch and wired another contact switch for 120 volts to a receptacle box, to this is plugged a 20 inch box fan hung next to the compressor head and motor. Each time the compressor starts and runs so does the cooling fan.
I bought this same compressor last year (February 2022) as an upgrade from a 30 gallon Quincy QTS-3 that I got for scrap price from work in 2018. It served me well for 4 years doing light duty work but I was getting worried about the tank because I had welded a patch on it to cover a rust hole and I didn't want to take a chance on it blowing up. Anyway, the 80 gallon IR hasn't seen much heavy use yet and it hasn't given me any fits. I purchased the 3 year extended warranty just because of what I've read about the motors going bad, but so far so good. The extra volume is good for blowing out my water hoses before putting them up for the winter whereas I'd have to wait for the 30 gallon Quincy to pump up. But I'm hoping to get some more use out of it such as a sandblasting cabinet and plasma cutter. It holds 150 psi very well since I installed a different drain valve with thread tape. They don't use any tape or sealant at the factory on the drain valves for some reason. I just shut the air supply valve and the disconnect off when I'm done with it and when I need to air up a tire I've always got air ready to go! Good compressor!
@@GarageTimeAutoResto I walked in to TSC the past several times and they've got a new one sitting on the floor and now they're putting WEG motors on them. Those are good motors. I stuck one on my old 30 gallon Quincy when changing out the old 3 phase motor that was on it.
I just put in the same TS4N5 compressor in my shop yesterday. I did loosen the belt a bit in hopes to avoid any motor problems. It seemed like it was just too tight. I wired it with 10GA THHN and conduit on a 30A breaker. I also added a mechanical hour meter. Seems like a good machine, but time will tell.
The wire gauge and breakers are exactly the reason for so much failure on these motors. The crank up amps are the kick start of this motor, smaller wire other than 8 gauge will brown out on startup. This motor needs all available amps to start it, running amps are one thing, have enough amps on start up is another. If you have any thing less than 8 gauge wire from the breaker box, your headed for motor failure.
You need to check the motor voltage drop at startup. It should be around 3 to 5%, anything more than that causes a higher inrush current on the motor windings. This only happens during startup, after the motor gets to synchronous speed the current drops . A lot of people have a long run of undersized wire feeding the compressor. This will either cause the motor to trip the breaker or over time destroy the motor. Sometimes it can be the power company's problem and some times it is the length of the wire causing the drop or it can be undersized wiring. The large range of voltages in the US caused the motors to burn up, that's why they when to a motor that was more tolerant of a wider ranges of voltages. Best of luck with your compressor. Retired IR tech support engineer.
Thanks for sharing your experience. The IR tech did measure the voltage drop during startup and said it was ok. (After first motor replacement) The wire and circuit breaker are larger than most feel comfortable with and the compressor is right next to the incoming service meter/breaker.
If you are concerned about the inrush current, you need a soft starter. You'd be really surprised how much the inrush current will drop, and the belt squeal will disappear. I would have done that in place of the mag starter you installed. The soft start (any decent one) will be a little more money, but it really extends your motor's service life and the service life of all the switching components.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto i have the 80 gallon. Same as yours but 80 gal. Pressure switch messed up and i just direct wired it to motor and shut it down at 140 psi, only takes 5 minutes. That thing is a beast. I have a motor controller/mag start box but i need a new pressure switch.i want to set it up like you did. I need to setup the motor start box.
Interesting - shopping around for an air compressor and the 7.5hp 80gal came up (2475N7.5) - based on their current photos it looks like they've already implemented this kind of improved starter. Might just mean a different part will catch fire at 3am..
I'd go with the mag switch and baldor one. My time and frustration was worth the probably $1000 difference. You could upgrade with the mag switch I used, but I think the weak point is the IR motor.
Not sure if you mentioned it but please check your motor terminal voltage. If you are at the bottom end of the motors rating it will be really hard on the windings, switch and capacitors which are the weak link in a 1phase motor. Make sure all of your connections are good and tight, as well conductors are properly sized.
Thanks,. I wasn't able to get a good connection with my test meter, but I did check the voltage as close as possible to the motor and it was 240 with the motor running.
Nice upgrade Tom. I just did a pm on my IR. Its basically the same unit just a little older. I have always been worried about the original motor. I know alot of folks had issues with them.
Great info. I saw the first video of you explaining everything about the compressor. And well, i needed a compressor asap so I went to TS and bought the same one. Just had it for two weeks and bam!!! The motor is having issues. After seeing the part where you blow air into the motor, i had an idea of turning the switch on simultaneously blowing it with air. And it worked! 😬 dont know if it will work for good! Should’ve not purchased it! Damn im dumb!! Great videos man! Thks for the help!
Hey, thanks for sharing your story, but sorry for the bad news. IR told me the new motor was much better??? I'd make sure you call for warrantee repair before a year is up.
@GarageTimeAutoResto i have the 80 gallon. Same as yours but 80 gal. Pressure switch messed up and i just direct wired it to motor and shut it down at 140 psi, only takes 5 minutes. That thing is a beast. I have a motor controller/mag start box but i need a new pressure switch. I want to set it up like you did. I need to setup the motor start box. My box has a lockout and red and green light to show status. Industrial style. Lol
You may have a hard time if you have to replace the belt on your compressor with the way the wiring is done . You don’t have much room to adjust the belt tension.
For my IR SS3 unit the mininum clearance from walls is 12". It looks like your installation puts the cooling fan cage right up against the wall. I'm guessing that might be causing an overheating condition for the pump.
There's plenty of airflow. Large fans are used in confined machines all the time. If you take the area of the fan and compare it to the circumference x distance to the wall you will find that the envelope for air to enter the fan is larger than the fan itself. 12" is very big and overkill in my opinion.
I've watched your original video some time ago when I was eyeing compressors. I just finished my shop and bang for the buck this is by far the cheapest, most maneuverable highest cfm compressor for it's category, BUT I'm wondering if the motors are just undersized. Reviews on Northern tool and similar sites seem hot or miss on motor failure. In case I run into the need to make a replacement at some point could you cover how to select a replacement and roughly how that process goes? Thank you
The motor frame size is standard. I can't remember the nomenclature off the top of my head, but there are many sources for the motor. Select one that is compressor duty. There's a store on eBay that sells compressor parts and I went with their recommendation. Better to spend more now than deal with equipment outages later It IR pressure switch isn't great either.
NEC allows you to have motor protection 250% of the FLA. You said that the FLA is 22A or measured 20A which gives you protection requirement 50A. Your wire can be 125% of FLA, so the gauge that you have is more than enough. Your setup appears good. The burns of the motor happened because of inrush which can go 6-10 times of FLA. All they did was - they gave you a magnetic starter to offload your pressure switch contacts. I hope they suggested you to change that pressure switch contacts as well but if not - it should work if not burnt already. You motor starter may have soft start feature and this is what you need for that motor that cannot handle the cold starts. IR engineers should have been notified about this flaw.
Thanks for your great comment! Glad to hear that NEC agrees with the breaker size too. The magnetic motor starter does have some motor protection built in, but I'm not exactly sure how it works. The switch contacts look ok to me, but I understand the demand on those contacts are greatly reduced now. The belt slipping may help reduce some of that start up load too? This new setup has outlasted both if the precious two IR motors. The IR engineers were notified and they said they made a change to the motor to tolerate a wider voltage band. Several others have reported similar problems here with this motor.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto I would have proper tension on the belt (I don’t think it eases the start because your bleeder valve drops the pressure at the end of each operation cycle). The first pump cycle would be on the atmospheric pressure line and the pressure builds up until the switch goes off and bleed valve releases the pressure from the line (between cylinder and the tank). When pump starts it is relatively easy to start. I don’t think that voltage levels had anything to do with your issues (these motors are suitable to operate to a great voltage variation). Nothing in the compressor should cause fire if properly designed. Individual components like motors must have own overload protection which would operate and temporary disable the motor. I would be more inclined to think that the original and consequently replaced motors were garbage and if IR acknowledged it - ask them to send you a spare one for the future. They still yet to compensate you for all time spent and inconvenience. Ask them if that starter has a soft start feature and ask them to send you a new pressure switch with new contacts and bleeder valve because you don’t know the root of the problem and just being proactive. I would change all that or kept it spare.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto Just got off the phone with IR as I want to get one of these for myself. He confirmed that they do not give the soft starters for any of these reciprocating units. So that box that they sent you has only a contactor and motor protection from overload. Your issue as it seems was fixed by changing to different brand of the motor. Your pressure switch will live longer now. However the sparking and fire issues wouldn’t be fixed if this was the old type of the motor. At best - the old motor would be prevented from operation by the motor starter that you mounted to the wall.
Directly running off a pressure switch is not a good idea. Motor starter and overload is highly recommended. Should of had it from the start but you live and learn. Set the overload to the motors SF rating but I'm sure u did since this video is 1 year old
I put a ball valve on my drain, it's easier to reach under there and pull the lever. I was about to go to Tractor Supply and buy this exact compressor. Maybe I'll check the date on the one they have and make sure it's the updated motor.
Do you remember how much the magnetic starter was? The link doesn't work now. I'm thinking I might just buy a Quincy and be done with it. They're 2,099 at Northern Tool (I have one nearby). I'm thinking by the time I pay the 1,400 for the IR at Tractor, then buy/install a magnetic starter, I'm most of the way to the price of that Quincy and peace of mind.
Do you know what went out on your old motors? Usually, it is the start capacitor that goes out. If it is a capacitor, they can be replaced pretty cheaply. The magnetic motor starter is a good investment. I put one on my Quincy QT-54 as well.
After seeing your video I put a new mag switch and pressure switch lowered air to 153 at 21.9 amp hot ....forgot to say it was brand new...the pressure switch leaked from day one
@@GarageTimeAutoResto Square D Pumptrol 9013FHG12J55X air-compressor pressure switch it states max pressure is 150 but I fooled with mine and got 160...the amperage at that point was 22.46.....Amazon 24 dollars
I had a i.r...moter went bad..I bought a Saylor-beall..air comprsoir..all cast iron..3 grand,up..but it will out last me..its in my home shop..5hp 80.2 stage. Magnetic starters are whats needed..on your unit..and they should of put it on yours at the factory..and a baldor moter..as saylor uses...i.r. has gone vary cheap..to compete.in the home owner end..china...stuff..saylor- beall is all American built ..in the state of st.johns mi.
Thanks, my previous home grade unit lasted 30 years. It was a Craftsman, but times have changed. I did add a magnetic motor starter in a subsequent video. The non IR replacement motor is still going!
What brand crimping tool he using? Have a problem with work IR compressor; every so often it "goes nuts", draws more than 30A and trips the breaker. Replaced the switch, no change. Somebody else on YT suggested using a car jack to tension the belt. Somebody else on YT was complaining about the price IR charges for belts, at work I buy from "Motion", formerly "Motion Industries", and get Gates or Timken (test alternators). Motion will take credit cards. Amazon is just people reselling from an authorized distributor. Should point out use shop air for testing, its when the shop air is turned off switch to the IR, using check valves and setting the IR to less than shop pressure.
you know I've been having the same problem I have the same air compressor IR 80 gallon bought it at Tractor Supply not even two years old and I'm having the same problem I can't get help from them or anybody else so I think it's time for a new air compressor I really did like this one but I'm having too many so I'm looking to buy a different air compressor too many problems thanks for the info
I'm having the same issues with a different brand compressor I have burnt two motors in 3 months . Mine is a 1985 summit racing compressor can't remember the manufacturer of the unit. I bought it new
You might need a better motor starter switch like I did in this video. My cheap replacement motor is still running. ruclips.net/video/QuZiPMSl5U0/видео.html
Wow! where did you get a new motor for $250? I sent mine in to be rebuilt, and the electrician suggested I just replace the motor. I did at a cost of over $500. Even an OEM replacement motor was over $500.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto that was my first thought. If the original motor only lasted this long, how good will another be. So I went with the one they sold me, thinking it will be better quality ( oh wait, quality doesn't exist anymore). After I hooked it back up and got it running, I immediately noticed it wasn't turning the pump as fast as the original motor. Even though it has the same ratings as the OEM. It does pump up to correct PSI,but it can not catch up if I'm using something with higher airflow( like my cutoff wheel). I will eventually have to stop and let it build up enough pressure. Than about, not even six months later, the switch took a shit. Got one from tractor supply ( an oe Ingersoll switch), put it on, and bam, took a shit. Wouldn't shut the compressor off at the correct pressure. I called it to ask if there was a problem with their switches. Of course he told me no, but sent me another one for free. I just finished changing it AGAIN. So far this one is working.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto The amperage overload dial I guess is supposed to be 10 to 15% above what the motor pull. At least that’s what this vid said but if yours is working all good. ruclips.net/video/Kb9pYlgL4Ls/видео.html
I have 1 just like yours and put a new motor on it a couple weeks ago. It's about 2.5 years old and the compressor is getting week so I'll never buy another ir compressor. I think there junk
hey you need to make sure and put a varistor or a transorb between your contactor coil terminals. unless you bought one WEG puts a plastic blank in there. also what is you circuit breaker sized at? dude we realize that breaker didnt cause the failure. just curious whats gonna happen when the breaker doesnt trip until 50amps and you motor is rated for half that. we dont want to see a fire. and its still negligent for an ir tech to ok that install. get an auto drain and wire it with that pressure swith so you drain for 5 seconds everytinme the switch calls for pressure
I've put two motors and a motor starter on the 2475 IR , now the pump locked up , opened the pump and found the connecting rod oil pic broken off and laying on the bottom of the case .
The breaker & wiring has nothing to do with your issue as long as they can supply up to the minimum requirements which they can. I always error on larger wire than the load requirements to reduce the possibility of heating them under load. For the drain I would take the plug out install a nipple with a ball valve then add a pipe to clear the tank and finish it off with a 90 degree fitting. Great setup, but I think you need a three car garage. lol
Trust me I know, I had a great three car when I was in Florida but now back up north I have two one car Garages separated by a wall so no place to put a car inside. Lol@@GarageTimeAutoResto
I have the same compressor and its a pile of junk. I have had nothing but problems with it and Im always fixing something. I have a old craftsman compressor that is 30 years old that works perfect and has since day one. Please update link to motor you went with thanks
Nice job, im hooking up a starter on my compressor and im not sure what wires to use for the switch. You said it comes off L1. Does it go back to A1 after the switch?
The installation manual for my Quincy QP5 (5HP 230V 1Phase) specifies a 60 amp breaker, for what its worth regarding this IR. Also, Quincy forbids isolation pads under the feet of their vertical compressors. Abide by your own equipment manual, obviously.
Thanks Walter. Good to know. So many people were criticizing my 50A breaker for being too big. A few electricians did comment that it was fine as long as the wire is big enough. Also interesting about the feet. I'm sure that's for safety. My compressor is also chained to the wall for earthquake reasons! Congrats on your purchase.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto thank you. I did measure the inrush current (max hold feature on clamp meter) and the 5hp motor inrush was 49 amps. And, yes, the wire guage does have to be appropriate for the breaker. I am not sure why Quincy specifically states not to use isolators with vertical versus specifically requiring them with horizontal. Oh well. Following manufacturer installation and mounting instructions has always made sense to me.
Yep, I agree it's best to follow the manual too. I've been on the engineering side too and we make sure the safety risk is minimal. For example you can't trust the anchor manufactures data if the installation isn't exactly the same as their test setup. Ie. no isolators.
Hi and love this channel. The green 911 is amazing. BTW check your home insurance now a non-licenced electrician ( you ) has been fiddling with mains electrics. In Australia you would have voided your cover :)
Can I get the link of the motor you bought and mag switch? The links are not working! Thanks! Great video. I just bought this compressor at a clearance and it has a damaged motor, figures!
I have on the bottom of the motor that has no wire coming from it what wire would go there I believe it's a hot wire that goes there I got the power to goes to top I got to neutral and I got the ground
Great video Tom. I have a Puma 60 gallon 3.2 hp motor compressor. I have been using it for 3.5 years with no problems. Not sure if I should consider this upgrade? Maybe I should take off my switch cover to see if I'm getting any arcing residue inside? I love my compressor but I wish I would have bought the next step us as it just can't keep up with my sandblaster... I checked out prices the other day and new compressor prices are definitely up... along with everything else I guess.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto Hi Tom, it is a 220V. Does increasing the HP of the motor assist at all in PSI or do you have to increase the compressor for increase in PSI?
@@rodneynelson3862 The number you need to focus on if running a blast cabinet is CFM and tank size. You should be running at least 25cfm and an 80gal tank. The more/larger the better.
Ok. But if current still goes thru the same contacts how can it be less? I have the same compressor for over 10 years. Just trying to see if this upgrade is really a good one. I don’t mind doing upgrades if they are really good upgrades
It's less than amp to signal the large magnetic contacts to switch. In other words the original pressure switch is no longer connected to the motor, it's connected to new magnetic switch. The new switch only draws around amp. When the switch gets the 1A signal then it connects the motor direct to the wall current. If you a familiar with power relays, it's the same thing. It's a good upgrade.
A 50A breaker is bigger than you need. The magnetic starter will help to protect you from the over size breaker. Your logic regarding airflow is seriously flawed. Under hard use you are at risk of overheating the compressor pump. If you turned the compressor 90 degrees either way it would improve the air flow.
In the pressure switch there is an adjustment. I think it is simply a spring and screw. Turn it one way and it decreases pressure, the other way and pressure increases.
I have this compressor and it really pisses me off at times. Agree that tiny switch it comes with is a joke. Right now im having issues with it building air very fast and only had it 5 months. Ridiculousness
All completely rediculious. i have a CP 5 hp compressor that has been abused and run hard for twenty years and the motor never gave me a problem. Now I have the mechanical starter on it wired to start ANOTHER compressor motor in tandem. Never had a problem with either motor starting on one mechanical switch. The problem here is CHEAP CHINEASE CRAP. Thank God I did my homework on IR compressors, I nearly bought one. They are all likely made in the same factory in china, dewalt, Kobalt, IR, Speedaire, all of them. They are just fooling everyone with names of companies they once trusted and respected. PITIFULL
what a piece of junk...I bought the same compressor 1.5yrs ago my condenser broke it was never put together the properly...IR is trying to sell me another condenser for $400....their customer service sucks
They had a big problem with the motors on those compressors. They was made in China, and had a very very bad reputation about going bad. I don't know if they ever put a better motor on them or not. I was going to buy one, but I'm not in the market for a $1500.00 compressor that the motor will probably go out on. I have read plenty of reviews about them going out and Ingersoll Rand not doing anything unless the purchaser had a big RUclips platform to draw negative attention. Seems like the same thing that happened to you. Shameful big business has turned into this.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto what I was reading said the motors was being made in China and the pump in Mexico. I just wonder if they ever fixed their issues.
The best upgrade I did for my compressor was install a after cooler, and water trap, stops moisture in your air tank, affecting air tools, spray painting, etc.
Oh, that reminds me. I have a cooler that I could install before the hot air goes in the tank. Haven't really needed it much because I have some post tank cooling setup already.
I use vibration isolator pads under the compressor feet instead of having them on the ground directly, and also a 90* fitting with a pipe and ball valve past the circular base to make draining easy on my IR compressors.
Those are great ideas! Thx
Good work! For the oil drain, I ran piping, a ball valve, and a 45 elbow to aid in draining the oil away from the tank without making a mess. Makes changing the oil much easier, though a little extra oil is needed to bring the level up dude to some filling up the pipe first.
That's smart!
Interesting... I've been running the same 5HP single stage comp for 25 years with no motor issues. It was used when I got it and I've run the snot out of it... It's never had the oil changed either. I'm getting ready to put an IR 2-stage pump on it because I need the air pressure for my mill... I'm half expecting the motor to fry because of the change, but I hope it doesn't... If it does, I'll go with a higher HP and get a contactor like you've installed. I think that's a great upgrade... Glad to see IR reached out to make it right.
Me too, but mine was a Craftsman. The newer IR electrics seem to be on a different level. Not made like they used to
Why have you not changed the oil in the pump ? Hope you take better care of your other equipment better than that .
@@Alabamaweldinginspector you know I was taught that if you can't say something nice to someone, just don't say anything.
Maybe of interest to some. I connected a tee off of my existing pressure switch and wired another contact switch for 120 volts to a receptacle box, to this is plugged a 20 inch box fan hung next to the compressor head and motor. Each time the compressor starts and runs so does the cooling fan.
Good idea. Did you notice that your motor was warm to the touch?
I bought this same compressor last year (February 2022) as an upgrade from a 30 gallon Quincy QTS-3 that I got for scrap price from work in 2018. It served me well for 4 years doing light duty work but I was getting worried about the tank because I had welded a patch on it to cover a rust hole and I didn't want to take a chance on it blowing up. Anyway, the 80 gallon IR hasn't seen much heavy use yet and it hasn't given me any fits. I purchased the 3 year extended warranty just because of what I've read about the motors going bad, but so far so good. The extra volume is good for blowing out my water hoses before putting them up for the winter whereas I'd have to wait for the 30 gallon Quincy to pump up. But I'm hoping to get some more use out of it such as a sandblasting cabinet and plasma cutter. It holds 150 psi very well since I installed a different drain valve with thread tape. They don't use any tape or sealant at the factory on the drain valves for some reason. I just shut the air supply valve and the disconnect off when I'm done with it and when I need to air up a tire I've always got air ready to go! Good compressor!
Glad to hear. Hopefully they improved the motors. They said they were trying.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto I walked in to TSC the past several times and they've got a new one sitting on the floor and now they're putting WEG motors on them. Those are good motors. I stuck one on my old 30 gallon Quincy when changing out the old 3 phase motor that was on it.
Well that's good news! This video may have played a small part in it because several people have reported similar problems here too.
I just put in the same TS4N5 compressor in my shop yesterday. I did loosen the belt a bit in hopes to avoid any motor problems. It seemed like it was just too tight. I wired it with 10GA THHN and conduit on a 30A breaker. I also added a mechanical hour meter. Seems like a good machine, but time will tell.
Best of luck. In rush current is massive on these motors, so I hope your wires and breaker are big enough.
The wire gauge and breakers are exactly the reason for so much failure on these motors. The crank up amps are the kick start of this motor, smaller wire other than 8 gauge will brown out on startup. This motor needs all available amps to start it, running amps are one thing, have enough amps on start up is another. If you have any thing less than 8 gauge wire from the breaker box, your headed for motor failure.
Better then most apprentices
you definatly should get an aftercooler,, My brother did and its amazing the water it removed.
You need to check the motor voltage drop at startup. It should be around 3 to 5%, anything more than that causes a higher inrush current on the motor windings. This only happens during startup, after the motor gets to synchronous speed the current drops . A lot of people have a long run of undersized wire feeding the compressor. This will either cause the motor to trip the breaker or over time destroy the motor. Sometimes it can be the power company's problem and some times it is the length of the wire causing the drop or it can be undersized wiring. The large range of voltages in the US caused the motors to burn up, that's why they when to a motor that was more tolerant of a wider ranges of voltages. Best of luck with your compressor.
Retired IR tech support engineer.
Thanks for sharing your experience. The IR tech did measure the voltage drop during startup and said it was ok. (After first motor replacement) The wire and circuit breaker are larger than most feel comfortable with and the compressor is right next to the incoming service meter/breaker.
If you are concerned about the inrush current, you need a soft starter. You'd be really surprised how much the inrush current will drop, and the belt squeal will disappear. I would have done that in place of the mag starter you installed. The soft start (any decent one) will be a little more money, but it really extends your motor's service life and the service life of all the switching components.
Good point. There is always something bigger better. This motor seems to be holding up just fine!
@@GarageTimeAutoResto i have the 80 gallon. Same as yours but 80 gal. Pressure switch messed up and i just direct wired it to motor and shut it down at 140 psi, only takes 5 minutes. That thing is a beast. I have a motor controller/mag start box but i need a new pressure switch.i want to set it up like you did. I need to setup the motor start box.
Interesting - shopping around for an air compressor and the 7.5hp 80gal came up (2475N7.5) - based on their current photos it looks like they've already implemented this kind of improved starter. Might just mean a different part will catch fire at 3am..
Good, mine was a 5hp and came with a cheap pressure switch. I always turn my compressor off when I leave the shop.
I came for the compressor review, i drooled over the Porsches.
Awe thx, I try to keep my channel positive, but this compressor pissed me off!
@@GarageTimeAutoResto I'm torn between that model and the one with the mag switch and Baldor standard
I'd go with the mag switch and baldor one. My time and frustration was worth the probably $1000 difference.
You could upgrade with the mag switch I used, but I think the weak point is the IR motor.
Not sure if you mentioned it but please check your motor terminal voltage. If you are at the bottom end of the motors rating it will be really hard on the windings, switch and capacitors which are the weak link in a 1phase motor. Make sure all of your connections are good and tight, as well conductors are properly sized.
Thanks,. I wasn't able to get a good connection with my test meter, but I did check the voltage as close as possible to the motor and it was 240 with the motor running.
I need a new pressure switch. Im going to turn it down to 145 psi too. I heard the motors go out prematurely.
Nice upgrade Tom. I just did a pm on my IR. Its basically the same unit just a little older. I have always been worried about the original motor. I know alot of folks had issues with them.
In this case, I think the older the better. I hope you got a good one.
Great info. I saw the first video of you explaining everything about the compressor. And well, i needed a compressor asap so I went to TS and bought the same one. Just had it for two weeks and bam!!! The motor is having issues. After seeing the part where you blow air into the motor, i had an idea of turning the switch on simultaneously blowing it with air. And it worked! 😬 dont know if it will work for good!
Should’ve not purchased it! Damn im dumb!!
Great videos man! Thks for the help!
Hey, thanks for sharing your story, but sorry for the bad news. IR told me the new motor was much better???
I'd make sure you call for warrantee repair before a year is up.
I like it. Using a motor starter,takes the load off the pressure switch.
That's correct! Compressor is still running great.
@GarageTimeAutoResto i have the 80 gallon. Same as yours but 80 gal. Pressure switch messed up and i just direct wired it to motor and shut it down at 140 psi, only takes 5 minutes. That thing is a beast. I have a motor controller/mag start box but i need a new pressure switch. I want to set it up like you did. I need to setup the motor start box. My box has a lockout and red and green light to show status. Industrial style. Lol
Im sure thats overkill though.
You may have a hard time if you have to replace the belt on your compressor with the way the wiring is done . You don’t have much room to adjust the belt tension.
For my IR SS3 unit the mininum clearance from walls is 12". It looks like your installation puts the cooling fan cage right up against the wall. I'm guessing that might be causing an overheating condition for the pump.
There's plenty of airflow. Large fans are used in confined machines all the time.
If you take the area of the fan and compare it to the circumference x distance to the wall you will find that the envelope for air to enter the fan is larger than the fan itself.
12" is very big and overkill in my opinion.
I've watched your original video some time ago when I was eyeing compressors. I just finished my shop and bang for the buck this is by far the cheapest, most maneuverable highest cfm compressor for it's category, BUT I'm wondering if the motors are just undersized. Reviews on Northern tool and similar sites seem hot or miss on motor failure. In case I run into the need to make a replacement at some point could you cover how to select a replacement and roughly how that process goes? Thank you
The motor frame size is standard. I can't remember the nomenclature off the top of my head, but there are many sources for the motor. Select one that is compressor duty. There's a store on eBay that sells compressor parts and I went with their recommendation.
Better to spend more now than deal with equipment outages later
It IR pressure switch isn't great either.
NEC allows you to have motor protection 250% of the FLA. You said that the FLA is 22A or measured 20A which gives you protection requirement 50A. Your wire can be 125% of FLA, so the gauge that you have is more than enough. Your setup appears good. The burns of the motor happened because of inrush which can go 6-10 times of FLA. All they did was - they gave you a magnetic starter to offload your pressure switch contacts. I hope they suggested you to change that pressure switch contacts as well but if not - it should work if not burnt already. You motor starter may have soft start feature and this is what you need for that motor that cannot handle the cold starts. IR engineers should have been notified about this flaw.
Thanks for your great comment! Glad to hear that NEC agrees with the breaker size too.
The magnetic motor starter does have some motor protection built in, but I'm not exactly sure how it works.
The switch contacts look ok to me, but I understand the demand on those contacts are greatly reduced now.
The belt slipping may help reduce some of that start up load too?
This new setup has outlasted both if the precious two IR motors.
The IR engineers were notified and they said they made a change to the motor to tolerate a wider voltage band. Several others have reported similar problems here with this motor.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto I would have proper tension on the belt (I don’t think it eases the start because your bleeder valve drops the pressure at the end of each operation cycle). The first pump cycle would be on the atmospheric pressure line and the pressure builds up until the switch goes off and bleed valve releases the pressure from the line (between cylinder and the tank). When pump starts it is relatively easy to start.
I don’t think that voltage levels had anything to do with your issues (these motors are suitable to operate to a great voltage variation).
Nothing in the compressor should cause fire if properly designed. Individual components like motors must have own overload protection which would operate and temporary disable the motor.
I would be more inclined to think that the original and consequently replaced motors were garbage and if IR acknowledged it - ask them to send you a spare one for the future. They still yet to compensate you for all time spent and inconvenience. Ask them if that starter has a soft start feature and ask them to send you a new pressure switch with new contacts and bleeder valve because you don’t know the root of the problem and just being proactive. I would change all that or kept it spare.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto Just got off the phone with IR as I want to get one of these for myself. He confirmed that they do not give the soft starters for any of these reciprocating units. So that box that they sent you has only a contactor and motor protection from overload. Your issue as it seems was fixed by changing to different brand of the motor. Your pressure switch will live longer now. However the sparking and fire issues wouldn’t be fixed if this was the old type of the motor. At best - the old motor would be prevented from operation by the motor starter that you mounted to the wall.
@@AY-cj9kp I just bought one not too long ago, but would the ‘cure’ be a soft starter?
Cheap motors, motor starter or not, it doesn’t replace quality. Some of the junk they sell these days is disgusting.
I hear you. Good stuff is hard to find.
Directly running off a pressure switch is not a good idea. Motor starter and overload is highly recommended. Should of had it from the start but you live and learn. Set the overload to the motors SF rating but I'm sure u did since this video is 1 year old
I guess made in usa doesnt mean anything anymore.
@@jsnjcntsays assembled in USA. This way people think it is American made but everything can come from other countries. Motor probably built in China
Mexico
I put a ball valve on my drain, it's easier to reach under there and pull the lever. I was about to go to Tractor Supply and buy this exact compressor. Maybe I'll check the date on the one they have and make sure it's the updated motor.
Good call on the drain valve. I'd check where the motor is made and how many amps it pulls. The heavy duty motors pull more amps.
Do you remember how much the magnetic starter was? The link doesn't work now. I'm thinking I might just buy a Quincy and be done with it. They're 2,099 at Northern Tool (I have one nearby). I'm thinking by the time I pay the 1,400 for the IR at Tractor, then buy/install a magnetic starter, I'm most of the way to the price of that Quincy and peace of mind.
The starter was about $100, but you also need a good motor, $300. Just buy the Quincy 🙂
Do you know what went out on your old motors? Usually, it is the start capacitor that goes out. If it is a capacitor, they can be replaced pretty cheaply. The magnetic motor starter is a good investment. I put one on my Quincy QT-54 as well.
The start windings were burnt. IR did a root cause analysis and blamed the power company.?😃
After seeing your video I put a new mag switch and pressure switch lowered air to 153 at 21.9 amp hot ....forgot to say it was brand new...the pressure switch leaked from day one
Is the IR switch pressure adjustable? Tell me how you did it.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto Square D Pumptrol 9013FHG12J55X air-compressor pressure switch it states max pressure is 150 but I fooled with mine and got 160...the amperage at that point was 22.46.....Amazon 24 dollars
I had a i.r...moter went bad..I bought a Saylor-beall..air comprsoir..all cast iron..3 grand,up..but it will out last me..its in my home shop..5hp 80.2 stage. Magnetic starters are whats needed..on your unit..and they should of put it on yours at the factory..and a baldor moter..as saylor uses...i.r. has gone vary cheap..to compete.in the home owner end..china...stuff..saylor- beall is all American built ..in the state of st.johns mi.
Thanks, my previous home grade unit lasted 30 years. It was a Craftsman, but times have changed.
I did add a magnetic motor starter in a subsequent video. The non IR replacement motor is still going!
Great update adding a magnetic starter...IR should pay u for it...great video
What brand crimping tool he using?
Have a problem with work IR compressor; every so often it "goes nuts", draws more than 30A and trips the breaker. Replaced the switch, no change.
Somebody else on YT suggested using a car jack to tension the belt.
Somebody else on YT was complaining about the price IR charges for belts, at work I buy from "Motion", formerly "Motion Industries", and get Gates or Timken (test alternators). Motion will take credit cards. Amazon is just people reselling from an authorized distributor.
Should point out use shop air for testing, its when the shop air is turned off switch to the IR, using check valves and setting the IR to less than shop pressure.
Nice mag start switch.
Use a three phase motor and variable frequency drive.
Super helpful video! Thank you for posting
Great info! Hopefully that's the last time you have to work on it for a long while.
Thanks, no excuses now for painting bumpers ha ha. Well there's one...
you know I've been having the same problem I have the same air compressor IR 80 gallon bought it at Tractor Supply not even two years old and I'm having the same problem I can't get help from them or anybody else so I think it's time for a new air compressor I really did like this one but I'm having too many so I'm looking to buy a different air compressor too many problems thanks for the info
How is this holding up thinking of doing the same thing.
Still running great. Just changed the pump oil. No issues with the eBay motor! Highly recommend the magnetic starter switch
Hi Tom, how is the century motor holding up? I just had to purchase one for my IR compressor and I am hearing mixed reviews.
Still going strong
I'm having the same issues with a different brand compressor I have burnt two motors in 3 months . Mine is a 1985 summit racing compressor can't remember the manufacturer of the unit. I bought it new
You might need a better motor starter switch like I did in this video. My cheap replacement motor is still running.
ruclips.net/video/QuZiPMSl5U0/видео.html
@Garage Time - DIY Porsche Restoration Good morning. Where did you get the starter?
On ebay. Just search WEG 5HP magnetic motor starter
Wow! where did you get a new motor for $250? I sent mine in to be rebuilt, and the electrician suggested I just replace the motor. I did at a cost of over $500. Even an OEM replacement motor was over $500.
That's the problem, don't pay for an OEM motor. I put the link to the motor I bought on ebay
@@GarageTimeAutoResto that was my first thought. If the original motor only lasted this long, how good will another be. So I went with the one they sold me, thinking it will be better quality ( oh wait, quality doesn't exist anymore). After I hooked it back up and got it running, I immediately noticed it wasn't turning the pump as fast as the original motor. Even though it has the same ratings as the OEM. It does pump up to correct PSI,but it can not catch up if I'm using something with higher airflow( like my cutoff wheel). I will eventually have to stop and let it build up enough pressure. Than about, not even six months later, the switch took a shit. Got one from tractor supply ( an oe Ingersoll switch), put it on, and bam, took a shit. Wouldn't shut the compressor off at the correct pressure. I called it to ask if there was a problem with their switches. Of course he told me no, but sent me another one for free. I just finished changing it AGAIN. So far this one is working.
Drain your air tank daily . Remove air drain and install a remote system air line three feet long to a drain valve
I think you supposed to be 10% above on your amp pod. Thanks for the vid!
What's an amp pod?
@@GarageTimeAutoResto The amperage overload dial I guess is supposed to be 10 to 15% above what the motor pull. At least that’s what this vid said but if yours is working all good. ruclips.net/video/Kb9pYlgL4Ls/видео.html
I have 1 just like yours and put a new motor on it a couple weeks ago. It's about 2.5 years old and the compressor is getting week so I'll never buy another ir compressor. I think there junk
hey you need to make sure and put a varistor or a transorb between your contactor coil terminals. unless you bought one WEG puts a plastic blank in there. also what is you circuit breaker sized at? dude we realize that breaker didnt cause the failure. just curious whats gonna happen when the breaker doesnt trip until 50amps and you motor is rated for half that. we dont want to see a fire. and its still negligent for an ir tech to ok that install. get an auto drain and wire it with that pressure swith so you drain for 5 seconds everytinme the switch calls for pressure
Ok thanks. I'll check into it.
I've put two motors and a motor starter on the 2475 IR , now the pump locked up , opened the pump and found the connecting rod oil pic broken off and laying on the bottom of the case .
Me too, this thing is a piece a crap. I’ve had nothing but problems with mine.
@@johnnyappleseed9254 I got this one for free , it's basically new , so I figured what could it hert to get it working .
Thanks for the links but could you add the Dallas Hammer link please
Any issues after installing the magnetic switch? I'm thinking about getting this compressor and immediately installing the mag switch
My compressor is still running well after this video. Not sure if it's due to the starter switch or the better motor? Probably both.
The breaker & wiring has nothing to do with your issue as long as they can supply up to the minimum requirements which they can. I always error on larger wire than the load requirements to reduce the possibility of heating them under load. For the drain I would take the plug out install a nipple with a ball valve then add a pipe to clear the tank and finish it off with a 90 degree fitting. Great setup, but I think you need a three car garage. lol
I do need a three car garage!
Trust me I know, I had a great three car when I was in Florida but now back up north I have two one car Garages separated by a wall so no place to put a car inside. Lol@@GarageTimeAutoResto
I have the same compressor and its a pile of junk. I have had nothing but problems with it and Im always fixing something. I have a old craftsman compressor that is 30 years old that works perfect and has since day one. Please update link to motor you went with thanks
Nice job, im hooking up a starter on my compressor and im not sure what wires to use for the switch. You said it comes off L1. Does it go back to A1 after the switch?
I have the 60 gallon 5 up single stage Ingersoll Rand. What magnetic starter should I buy. Brand? Price? Specs?Thank you!
The link is in the description of this video. Use the same one
The installation manual for my Quincy QP5 (5HP 230V 1Phase) specifies a 60 amp breaker, for what its worth regarding this IR. Also, Quincy forbids isolation pads under the feet of their vertical compressors. Abide by your own equipment manual, obviously.
Thanks Walter. Good to know. So many people were criticizing my 50A breaker for being too big. A few electricians did comment that it was fine as long as the wire is big enough.
Also interesting about the feet. I'm sure that's for safety. My compressor is also chained to the wall for earthquake reasons!
Congrats on your purchase.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto thank you. I did measure the inrush current (max hold feature on clamp meter) and the 5hp motor inrush was 49 amps. And, yes, the wire guage does have to be appropriate for the breaker. I am not sure why Quincy specifically states not to use isolators with vertical versus specifically requiring them with horizontal. Oh well. Following manufacturer installation and mounting instructions has always made sense to me.
Yep, I agree it's best to follow the manual too. I've been on the engineering side too and we make sure the safety risk is minimal. For example you can't trust the anchor manufactures data if the installation isn't exactly the same as their test setup. Ie. no isolators.
Hi and love this channel. The green 911 is amazing. BTW check your home insurance now a non-licenced electrician ( you ) has been fiddling with mains electrics. In Australia you would have voided your cover :)
Oh great, now I'm in trouble with Australia 😄, ha ha. What do you recommend as a peace offering? Vegimite?
@@GarageTimeAutoResto Use only Penrite oils as I do exclusively in my 986 :)
Can I get the link of the motor you bought and mag switch?
The links are not working!
Thanks! Great video. I just bought this compressor at a clearance and it has a damaged motor, figures!
Starter link is dead . What is the model number? Thanks
I have on the bottom of the motor that has no wire coming from it what wire would go there I believe it's a hot wire that goes there I got the power to goes to top I got to neutral and I got the ground
Just give everybody an update on an Ingersoll Rand I got it working perfect now I'm not having no problems with it whatsoever
Great video Tom. I have a Puma 60 gallon 3.2 hp motor compressor. I have been using it for 3.5 years with no problems. Not sure if I should consider this upgrade? Maybe I should take off my switch cover to see if I'm getting any arcing residue inside? I love my compressor but I wish I would have bought the next step us as it just can't keep up with my sandblaster... I checked out prices the other day and new compressor prices are definitely up... along with everything else I guess.
Is it 120V? Might be the same amount of current through the switch if so?
Unfortunately, a good compressor is about $2000 apparently????
@@GarageTimeAutoResto Hi Tom, it is a 220V. Does increasing the HP of the motor assist at all in PSI or do you have to increase the compressor for increase in PSI?
A two stage pump is needed for more psi. Mine goes to 175psi whereas my old single stage went to 100psi. Both 5HP motors
@@rodneynelson3862 The number you need to focus on if running a blast cabinet is CFM and tank size. You should be running at least 25cfm and an 80gal tank. The more/larger the better.
Are you still using the same contacts from the original switch to send current to the new control box? I’m just a little confused on that.
Yes, the stock switch still senses the pressure and works like before. The big difference is the current through the contacts is much much less now.
Ok. But if current still goes thru the same contacts how can it be less? I have the same compressor for over 10 years. Just trying to see if this upgrade is really a good one. I don’t mind doing upgrades if they are really good upgrades
It's less than amp to signal the large magnetic contacts to switch.
In other words the original pressure switch is no longer connected to the motor, it's connected to new magnetic switch. The new switch only draws around amp. When the switch gets the 1A signal then it connects the motor direct to the wall current.
If you a familiar with power relays, it's the same thing. It's a good upgrade.
Ok 👍 gotcha. Yes that is a good upgrade for sure!!
Hey man im looking to upgrade my 30gal compressor I mostly want it for spraying bumpers/panels /da samders what size would you recommend and brand?
80 gal 5hp, Dayton or Emax
@@GarageTimeAutoResto any big difference in emax vs eaton?
Not sure. I'm.not a compressor expert and don't have direct experience with either. They have been highly recommended though as better than IR
Where is my new motor ingersol rand
Mexico!
Do you have a part number or name of Magnetic starter for that exact compressor?
A 50A breaker is bigger than you need. The magnetic starter will help to protect you from the over size breaker. Your logic regarding airflow is seriously flawed. Under hard use you are at risk of overheating the compressor pump. If you turned the compressor 90 degrees either way it would improve the air flow.
Great video! What did you get for your replacement motor?
It's an inexpensive motor from eBay. Just search compressor duty 5hp
you could turn the compressor 90 degrees to allow full air flow,...or 180 and not lose any space,, Just not as attractive with its back turned.
This is a good idea!
Does anybody know how to turn the pressure down ?
Not sure, I wondered this myself.
In the pressure switch there is an adjustment. I think it is simply a spring and screw. Turn it one way and it decreases pressure, the other way and pressure increases.
Yes, a star bit with hole in the end of bit, can’t remember what size though. Turn it counter clockwise to lower pressure.
It's called Carbon.😄
You should tell the company about the soot you seen in the switch so they can upgrade it
As if they would listen to me....
What size shaft?
I have same compressor and starter im hooking up can u send me a pic of inside of starter box for reference? Thanks
Yes, but I need your email address or some way to get it to you.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto Hello,i have my email but as soon as i post it RUclips deletes it.
I'll send it to your email,Thanks
My email is on the about tab
@@GarageTimeAutoResto just sent ya an email Thanks
I have this compressor and it really pisses me off at times. Agree that tiny switch it comes with is a joke. Right now im having issues with it building air very fast and only had it 5 months. Ridiculousness
Ugh, sorry for your trouble. Wonder if the pump is blocked or broken somehow?
Where is my new motor ingersol rand? Lol
just got rid of my ir it was a pos.....
I got a Schulz now its a beast
All completely rediculious. i have a CP 5 hp compressor that has been abused and run hard for twenty years and the motor never gave me a problem. Now I have the mechanical starter on it wired to start ANOTHER compressor motor in tandem. Never had a problem with either motor starting on one mechanical switch. The problem here is CHEAP CHINEASE CRAP.
Thank God I did my homework on IR compressors, I nearly bought one. They are all likely made in the same factory in china, dewalt, Kobalt, IR, Speedaire, all of them. They are just fooling everyone with names of companies they once trusted and respected.
PITIFULL
Same! my craftsman 5HP 30 gal was plugged into the same outlet and ran for 10+ years at this house and 20 years at other houses.
what a piece of junk...I bought the same compressor 1.5yrs ago my condenser broke it was never put together the properly...IR is trying to sell me another condenser for $400....their customer service sucks
Sorry to hear about this. I hope the quality improves soon
They had a big problem with the motors on those compressors. They was made in China, and had a very very bad reputation about going bad. I don't know if they ever put a better motor on them or not. I was going to buy one, but I'm not in the market for a $1500.00 compressor that the motor will probably go out on. I have read plenty of reviews about them going out and Ingersoll Rand not doing anything unless the purchaser had a big RUclips platform to draw negative attention. Seems like the same thing that happened to you. Shameful big business has turned into this.
The motor is from Mexico , fyi
@@GarageTimeAutoResto what I was reading said the motors was being made in China and the pump in Mexico. I just wonder if they ever fixed their issues.
My pump is made in India. I spoke with an executive at IR and they said they fixed the motor while using the same supplier, but who knows?
@@GarageTimeAutoResto you're correct, the pumps are made in India, I knew I was misspeaking when I typed that.