A little tip you might appreciate: Move the Laser to the rear position after finishing cutting. Ive seen that Lightburn can add additional g-code commands at the end of a job, so i guess you could add "use absolute coordinates" (in case you are using relative coordinates in your jobs), "zero all axes", and "move to [max-y]". I just ordered a laser cutter (laserstack a20pro), so im new to this, but ive done similar with my 3d printer.
Thanks for the Ray 5 mounting feet and elevation feet, just got my two spoil boards for raised and non raised engraving today, and jammed out a spoil board etch, and a glass engrave for an anniversary gift. and now i know i can just swap back and forth without losing center. one interesting issue though. if i use the TF card and try to frame a project, it errors out on a hard limit and seems to try to go negative X position, but if i place item where it is suppose to go, and just hit engrave, it works fine.. no idea why it is doing that..
Hello Roger I watched you comparison of honey comb laser boards. You mentioned that you had a video of how to make a homemade board. Could you please share that with me. I have searched and been unable to locate it. Would you just use an aluminum baking sheet to put under the cookie sheet? Thank you sir. Another question please. I have seen a video of a fellow reviewing a certain laser and he had a board, not honey comb that had a pattern on it of concentric squares for engraving, I'd guess. Might you know of a location for a file like that. I should mention that I am very very new to this hobby. I am pretty good with computers and I believe that I can handle Lightburn. I am pretty good with Adobe IIllustrator and Affinity Designer. There seem to be some similarities to those. I have been looking at the Twotrees TS2 20 watt with auto focus. Any suggestions on that idea. I should mention that I am legally Blind, but not totally blind. I can see pretty well into a 3 - 4 inch circle but my peripheral is pretty much gone. Thank you for the very good videos and your kindness. Please take care and be safe in all travels and all activities.
ruclips.net/video/Ep0r3yOqhPA/видео.html&lc=UgyqabKDFPMI3HBCp4t4AaABAg&ab_channel=Roger%27sShop is the home made honeycomb board. Those with open squares, similar to the Atomstack can be a problem if small pieces partially drop, then stick up for the laser to hit. Personally, not a fan of Two trees due to their very poor customer service.
Hi Roger, love the vids on the aufero 2 which I recently purchased. Two questions…first in the set up vid you were going to do a follow up vid on the baseboard you had planned in making…I couldnt find it. Could you provide a link please? Second I have the base laser that it came with what would be a compatible upgrade for cutting?
The baseboard I used on the Aufero 2 (before I added the extension kit) is 3/4" plywood. 1/2" MDF or plywood can also be used. The layout grid is a generic 300mm x 300mm and you can download that from one of our websites here: moonshinecrafts.com/faq/ Mounting feet are 3D printed and I will have these up on the site soon for purchase. If you have a 3D printer, email me and I will send you the .stl file to print your own. If you intend to do cutting, I suggest adding air assist as well as a honeycomb board. They make a huge difference!
Interesting! I have a Glowforge Pro that comes with it’s own honeycomb plate. I still get the little scorch marks on the back. Any suggestions on how to not get them?
Raising the project on a nail bed might eliminate it. I only get the back scorching when there are very fine details close together. But, this is on diode lasers, not CO2.
I bought the xTool honeycomb with the D1 10W laser. I thought it made sense, along with the air-assist. They do make sense, in general, but the very expensive xTool honeycomb is not worth it. IMO, the full-size honeycomb should match with the workspace shown in the software screen. There are no instructions or tips for how to orient the honeycomb in the frame, which makes the rulers on the sides, and the sides themselves, useless for positioning. Also, the inch ruler is in tenths, which doesn't translate easily to anything Americans do using fractions of inches. 🤔Lastly, the magnets are too thick: if you want to have it hold down an edge that curls up, the orange shield bumps the magnet if the laser head goes there.🙄
That has to be the longest intro I’ve seen in any RUclips video 😂 it’s okay though because it’s a cool dude playing with lasers!
Good video. My only add is that i think Harbor Freight has many quality affordable tools.
A little tip you might appreciate: Move the Laser to the rear position after finishing cutting. Ive seen that Lightburn can add additional g-code commands at the end of a job, so i guess you could add "use absolute coordinates" (in case you are using relative coordinates in your jobs), "zero all axes", and "move to [max-y]".
I just ordered a laser cutter (laserstack a20pro), so im new to this, but ive done similar with my 3d printer.
Thanks for the Ray 5 mounting feet and elevation feet, just got my two spoil boards for raised and non raised engraving today, and jammed out a spoil board etch, and a glass engrave for an anniversary gift. and now i know i can just swap back and forth without losing center. one interesting issue though. if i use the TF card and try to frame a project, it errors out on a hard limit and seems to try to go negative X position, but if i place item where it is suppose to go, and just hit engrave, it works fine.. no idea why it is doing that..
Thanks for the video ! I have an old screwdriver, I sharpened , saved buying one . . .
Hello Roger
I watched you comparison of honey comb laser boards. You mentioned that you had a video of how to make a homemade board. Could you please share that with me. I have searched and been unable to locate it. Would you just use an aluminum baking sheet to put under the cookie sheet? Thank you sir.
Another question please. I have seen a video of a fellow reviewing a certain laser and he had a board, not honey comb that had a pattern on it of concentric squares for engraving, I'd guess. Might you know of a location for a file like that. I should mention that I am very very new to this hobby. I am pretty good with computers and I believe that I can handle Lightburn. I am pretty good with Adobe IIllustrator and Affinity Designer. There seem to be some similarities to those. I have been looking at the Twotrees TS2 20 watt with auto focus. Any suggestions on that idea. I should mention that I am legally Blind, but not totally blind. I can see pretty well into a 3 - 4 inch circle but my peripheral is pretty much gone. Thank you for the very good videos and your kindness. Please take care and be safe in all travels and all activities.
ruclips.net/video/Ep0r3yOqhPA/видео.html&lc=UgyqabKDFPMI3HBCp4t4AaABAg&ab_channel=Roger%27sShop is the home made honeycomb board. Those with open squares, similar to the Atomstack can be a problem if small pieces partially drop, then stick up for the laser to hit. Personally, not a fan of Two trees due to their very poor customer service.
Thank you
Hi Roger, love the vids on the aufero 2 which I recently purchased. Two questions…first in the set up vid you were going to do a follow up vid on the baseboard you had planned in making…I couldnt find it. Could you provide a link please? Second I have the base laser that it came with what would be a compatible upgrade for cutting?
The baseboard I used on the Aufero 2 (before I added the extension kit) is 3/4" plywood. 1/2" MDF or plywood can also be used. The layout grid is a generic 300mm x 300mm and you can download that from one of our websites here: moonshinecrafts.com/faq/
Mounting feet are 3D printed and I will have these up on the site soon for purchase. If you have a 3D printer, email me and I will send you the .stl file to print your own.
If you intend to do cutting, I suggest adding air assist as well as a honeycomb board. They make a huge difference!
Interesting! I have a Glowforge Pro that comes with it’s own honeycomb plate. I still get the little scorch marks on the back. Any suggestions on how to not get them?
Raising the project on a nail bed might eliminate it. I only get the back scorching when there are very fine details close together. But, this is on diode lasers, not CO2.
using masking tape will eliminate scorching regardless of elevation
secondly you can use air assist
I bought the xTool honeycomb with the D1 10W laser. I thought it made sense, along with the air-assist. They do make sense, in general, but the very expensive xTool honeycomb is not worth it. IMO, the full-size honeycomb should match with the workspace shown in the software screen. There are no instructions or tips for how to orient the honeycomb in the frame, which makes the rulers on the sides, and the sides themselves, useless for positioning. Also, the inch ruler is in tenths, which doesn't translate easily to anything Americans do using fractions of inches. 🤔Lastly, the magnets are too thick: if you want to have it hold down an edge that curls up, the orange shield bumps the magnet if the laser head goes there.🙄