Install an Auto Flush Kit on your RO/DI | How To Tuesday
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- Опубликовано: 10 июл 2024
- brs.li/AutoFlushYT - Properly flushing your membrane will maximize system efficiency, improve rejection rate and prolong membrane life. The thing is most of us forget to do it before and after using our system and almost none of us do it while the system is running. That’s where an auto flush comes in.
All you need to do is remove your systems flow restrictor and replace it with the new auto flush flow restrictor. Once that’s done your system will power flush the membrane soon as the system is turned on and then for another 15-20 seconds every hour. The increased flow rate will remove organic and inorganic contaminants as well as purge standing water from the membrane before use.
If you already own an AquaTech booster pump kit with the pump, power supply and pressure switch; this is almost a no brainer because the only thing you need to purchase is the auto-flush flow restrictor.
If your system doesn't utilize a booster pump you will need to purchase three things. An auto flush flow restrictor, AquaTech power supply and pressure switch. I’ll show you the two different installs.
if you already have a booster pump installed all you need to do is remove the old flow restrictor and replace it with the new auto flush flow restrictor making sure you pay attention to the flow arrows, then locate the y splitter that came with your booster pump package or pressure switch, disconnect the booster pump and install the splitter, once installed you can plug the pump back into one end of the Y and the auto flush onto the other end of the Y.
The pressure switch will shut down the flush when it senses pressure from your float valve going up on the storage container.
If you don’t have a booster pump on your system the install is just as easy. Locate and remove your old flow restrictor, then replace it with the new auto flush restrictor again making sure the flow is arrow is going in the right direction. Now clip your product water line and install the pressure switch. Once that is done you can just connect the power supply to the pressure switch and the other end of the pressure switch to your new auto flush flow restrictor.
Once you have completed either of these installs your system will now power flush your system at start up when the float goes down and pressure is released as well as for 15-20 second every hour.
I would also like to note the auto shut off comes in a variety of different restrictor flow rates. If you have a standard seventy five gallon per day system most people will get between a four hundred and a six hundred mL unit with the five hundred being most popular. If you have low TDS in your tap water like less than one hundred the four hundred might be suitable of you have pretty dirty water like over three hundred I would go with the six hundred.
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The purpose and content of this video is to provide general information regarding the products and their applications as presented in the video. Aquatic Sales Solutions, Inc. and its officers, directors, employees and agents disclaim all express or implied warranties, in any way, related to the products and their application as presented in this video, make no representation or warranty regarding the products and the application as presented in this video and shall not be liable for any direct or indirect losses or damages of any type, including but not limited to punitive damages, or from personal injury or death resulting from or in any manner related to the video, and the products in and contents of the video. The viewer expressly agrees that aquatic sales solutions, inc. And its officers, directors, employees and agents shall not be liable for any damages or losses related to the products in and content of the video and hereby agrees to hold the foregoing harmless from any such losses or damages. 
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Power -> Pressure Switch -> Y Splitter -> (Pump and Flow Restrictor both)
this should be a pin ruclips.net/video/jx6STgYmZpI/видео.html
Thanks! Brs pin this comment
Very cool!
Hi I have a different brand RO system (bought before I knew about BRS) it is rated at 90 gpd. I have the booster pump already installed with the ASO. I have two questions....where can i get the Y connector wire for the auto flush add-on and which size flow restrictor do you recommend for a 90 gpd system? Thanks in advance you guys are awesome your videos are a must watch for new reefers!
Hi could you do some videos on growing phytoplankton and copepods.
I was wondering what online store you recommend in Australia to purchase reef equipment. I live in Australia, Queensland and the local pet store doesn't stocks reef equipment...
I have a Spectrapure 90gpd membrane and hard water. I am guessing going with 800ML restrictor, that correct?
recommendation.. I need one that does this every 2000 gallons?
can you also connect the boosterpump to the low pressure sensor and the autoflush unit and the powersupply or is that to much and a is a second power supply decided?
Great videos. I have an RO only set up in the kitchen from Culligan. I've been using this for a fish only saltwater tank. My tank has been down for a couple years and I'm starting it back up. Is RO only okay for fish only-what should i treat water with before putting RO water into the tank? If I go with an RO/DI system dedicated to the tank I would want to have it set up so it automatically fills my 50 gallons holding containers to where I wouldn't have to touch a thing other than change the cartridges whenever needed. Is there an easy way to do this? What accessories would I need? What RO/DI system would you recommend for my needs and how often do the cartridges/filters need to be changed?
Thanks.
How long does the power flush last? Would the power flush be sufficient enough after replacing the membrane?
So the auto flush flow restrictor comes with the Y connector? I have the booster pump, chances are slim to none I can find the parts I didn't use from it. Also, just to be sure, the flow restrictor (stock) goes in the waste water line, correct?
Daisy chaining the auto flush, booster pump, and auto shut off is a little unclear. Does the order matter? My booster pump has been short cycling after my trash can gets full. Not sure if its a result of the auto flush I just installed (and perhaps incorrectly) or the air stone I added to the trashcan.
Back to the , Gym, Ryan! We all need you around for a long time.
So once this is installed it replaces the pressure sensing auto shut off valve on waste water side?
Where is demo video of autoflush?
I have a 100 GPD RO system and the TDS of our city water is 145, what size of auto flush flow restrictor should I be using? Second question, our incoming water pressure is 60 psi, so should I be looking at a 60 psi pressure switch? Finally, when you say in your video that one needs to connect the pressure switch at the product water line, do you mean at the line that supplies my city incoming water just past my manual shut off valve?
Thanks a bunch for a great informative video!
@@BRStv Appreciate your quick response and info provided and have just ordered the 100 GPD Auto Flush Flow Aquatec Kit from your web site. Thanks
How do you install the auto flush if you have no booster pump and an auto shut off valve. Ty
How does that work when you have drinking water as well, every time it tops up it will purge the system.
Thanks for your informative videos, Steve.
This is actually the purpose of the auto flush. Whenever the RO systems comes back on, it will flush the system. This is by design.
Thanks it is no good for me as it will be flushing all day.
Thanks again for your reply.
An other excellent video how to video :) I did not know that, that auto flush existed.
Again, I have a question for you guys. Today I just got my TDS meter and I wanted to test my tap water and bottled water from the store [my RO/DI system is almost to be ready to start working so I wanted to know first how to use the TDS meter].
My tap water was 083 and the bottled water was 142. I was a little surprised considering that the bottled water is from one of the best brands in here. I was expecting that the water from the store was going to be near 000.
Can you tell me, why is this?
***** :) thank you for the answer. It's spring water.
***** I see :) Thank you very much again for all your help and useful information :D
I’m currently doing the flush manually each time before I fill my 55gal storage tank.
While I do this I also have a three way valve that I turn to direct this TDS flushed water into container instead of entering the DI stage.
With your auto flush setup... I’m confused how you’re avoiding flushing the RO’s TDS water straight thru into DI stage? Sorry, I must be missing something. Chance you could help clarify?
Using the flush valve is more of a maintenance step and will not help with TDS creep. The method you use will help not only maintain the RO membrane, but also help reduce TDS creep by sending that water down the drain instead.
@Bulk Reef Supply I see. Awesome thanks..Really appreciated.
I suppose it would’ve be too tough to automate the process I use in combination with this auto flush system by using a few more solenoids. Cheers!
Do we still need "pressure switch" if we have the booster pump or not..? or just connect the cable between auto flush --> power supply --> booster pump
You'll still want the pressure switch so that it can shut down your booster pump when your float valve is triggered.
Do I still need a pressure switch, if I have a permeate pump when installing the Auto Flush Flow Restrictor valve? Thx
Short answer is yes.
The pressure switch helps tell the auto flush flow restrictor when it does and doesn't need to be flushing the system.
I have your RO/DI system but I'm using DUAL 150 GPD Membranes... can you show the proper Auto Flush setup for a system like mine that has dual membranes, a booster pump and auto shutoff valve? Do I still need the Auto Shutoff Switch? Thanks!
***** Uh Oh... I may have my system wrong then for the past 7 years! I "thought" that when the second membrane goes on it replaces the need for the original restrictor? I may have misunderstood the instructions 7 years ago! Back to the drawing board! So does that mean the "restrictor" should be on the waste line AFTER the second membrane? Guess I should watch that video now that it's available. :/
***** Ah ha... Yup... my system looks just a tad different... I have your manual valve flush kit installed.... like I said, back to the drawing board! I will have to get another switch and a wire harness "Y" and make a few changes! Thanks!
is there an Automatic Shutoff Valve on aquarium systems that have a float valve? if so, why do you need a pressure switch?
The pressure switch turns off the booster pump when the float valve triggers.
Can you buy this in Australia or can you send it to Australia?
Hi there,
As of now, we are able to ship to the United States and Canada. We do allow for the use of a mail forwarding service if that's something you'd be interested in. Link below to the details.
www.bulkreefsupply.com/international-shipping
Hi i strat having ICH in my tank please advise how can i get rid of it will UV sterilizer work?
thank you
Wiked
I don't understand the value of auto flush on a periodic schedule/hourly rather than at startup of product demand only. Seems like that would waste a lot of water. I'm on a well and pump twice to get water to the house. Water and electricity are a premium ($$$) here.
Ryan, you lose weight bro? Lookin' trim!
WooHoo! Clearly it's workin! I'm on the same path at the moment. Kudos!