@@garycroftsmicroscopy My omax is of similar clarity to yours and using oblique illumination I have been able to successfully see some bacteria flagellum (after evaporation under the cover slide). I do get green chromatic aberrations in bright field, but that is normal with achromatic objectives. From my understanding the bigger difference between small time amateurs and the big time/professional videos you see is not so much resolution, but special lighting like dark field, DIC, phase contrast, and rheinberg illumination. It also helps they use expensive dslr cameras. Their bright field isn't much different at all when you see it, even microscope costing thousands. With patience you can get dark field (up to 40x), rheinberg, and oblique illumination which is similar to DIC with homemade filters.
@@LostBeetle I have some 3D printed darkfield filters which only work on 4x and 10x haven’t looked at the others to be honest my main issue at the moment is dirt somehow despite lots of cleaning I’m still get dirt on the higher objectives. Driving me nuts. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
@@garycroftsmicroscopy If you are noticing the dust in dark field, that's just the nature of the beast. That is the biggest achilles heel of dark field. You should see how bad dust looks at 40x, not to mention the glow on all of the edges. I too couldn't get dark field to work past 10x, centering my condenser fixed that problem. I'll type the instructions to the best of my memory. Your microscope might have the same setup. I focused on a slide with my 4x to get the correct distance, I closed my condenser all the way, then I lowered my condenser enough to see the black outline. The centering screws are the three small allen screws, they center a metal ring that holds the condenser. Everything is reversed, but that's easy to comprehend using the eyepiece. For example, if you need to go down, the bottom screw needs tightened, left is left screw, right is right screw. If one screw needs tightened the other two often need backed off a tiny bit. As you center it better and better you can raise the condenser making your black outline smaller and smaller. You're done when your black outline is as small and even as you can get it and all three of the centering screws are snug. I noticed I can get the black outline 99% perfect, it's not a perfect circle so 100% wasn't possible. You'll know when you can't possibly center it any better. These are small allen screws, so be careful not to strip them. Use whatever allen wrench fits the best, I ended up using an imperial sized wrench since it fit a bit better than the metric one. Make sure they are in straight before cranking them. Don't over tighten anything, just snug a little using the short end.
@@garycroftsmicroscopy My reply was removed, how typical. Anyway, I was unable to achieve darkfield past 10x until I centered my condenser. My removed comment was very long and had all of the instructions on how I centered it. Let me know if you need those instructions. As for your dust, I thought you meant with darkfield which is very normal. If you mean higher objectives, if I were you I'd first replace one of those higher objectives. Maybe a good opportunity for a 60x dry if you don't have one. If the problem goes away you can pinpoint the problem to the actual objective and not something in the microscope.
Наука
eyy, good stuff!
amazing footage
Thanks
Just subbed to you too
which microscope did you use for this video?
It’s a relatively cheap one from Amazon essbnl less than £300 I believe, hope to upgrade soon as i am at its limits in quality. Thanks for the post
@@garycroftsmicroscopy My omax is of similar clarity to yours and using oblique illumination I have been able to successfully see some bacteria flagellum (after evaporation under the cover slide). I do get green chromatic aberrations in bright field, but that is normal with achromatic objectives. From my understanding the bigger difference between small time amateurs and the big time/professional videos you see is not so much resolution, but special lighting like dark field, DIC, phase contrast, and rheinberg illumination. It also helps they use expensive dslr cameras. Their bright field isn't much different at all when you see it, even microscope costing thousands. With patience you can get dark field (up to 40x), rheinberg, and oblique illumination which is similar to DIC with homemade filters.
@@LostBeetle I have some 3D printed darkfield filters which only work on 4x and 10x haven’t looked at the others to be honest my main issue at the moment is dirt somehow despite lots of cleaning I’m still get dirt on the higher objectives. Driving me nuts. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
@@garycroftsmicroscopy If you are noticing the dust in dark field, that's just the nature of the beast. That is the biggest achilles heel of dark field. You should see how bad dust looks at 40x, not to mention the glow on all of the edges.
I too couldn't get dark field to work past 10x, centering my condenser fixed that problem.
I'll type the instructions to the best of my memory. Your microscope might have the same setup.
I focused on a slide with my 4x to get the correct distance, I closed my condenser all the way, then I lowered my condenser enough to see the black outline. The centering screws are the three small allen screws, they center a metal ring that holds the condenser. Everything is reversed, but that's easy to comprehend using the eyepiece. For example, if you need to go down, the bottom screw needs tightened, left is left screw, right is right screw. If one screw needs tightened the other two often need backed off a tiny bit. As you center it better and better you can raise the condenser making your black outline smaller and smaller. You're done when your black outline is as small and even as you can get it and all three of the centering screws are snug.
I noticed I can get the black outline 99% perfect, it's not a perfect circle so 100% wasn't possible. You'll know when you can't possibly center it any better.
These are small allen screws, so be careful not to strip them. Use whatever allen wrench fits the best, I ended up using an imperial sized wrench since it fit a bit better than the metric one. Make sure they are in straight before cranking them. Don't over tighten anything, just snug a little using the short end.
@@garycroftsmicroscopy My reply was removed, how typical. Anyway, I was unable to achieve darkfield past 10x until I centered my condenser. My removed comment was very long and had all of the instructions on how I centered it. Let me know if you need those instructions.
As for your dust, I thought you meant with darkfield which is very normal. If you mean higher objectives, if I were you I'd first replace one of those higher objectives. Maybe a good opportunity for a 60x dry if you don't have one. If the problem goes away you can pinpoint the problem to the actual objective and not something in the microscope.