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Watching this video reminded me that I also have an inexpensive Japanese plane which my brother gave me about 20 yrs ago when he came back from a duty tour in Japan. At the time I thought it was cute but not really useful, so it's sat on a shelf in my shop ever since. I just dug it out of the clutter, cleaned it up and set it up as shown -- and it cuts amazingly well! Thanks for a great and useful video!
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I have a lot of experience with Stanley and Lie Nielsen planes, Japanese chisels and saws. I was always impressed with the Japanese tools. After watching your video I ordered one from Amazon US $65 free shipping with Prime. Arrived in 3 days. I was so excited. Out of the box, I set the blade at its lightest and took beautiful wispy shavings. I can't imagine how much better it will cut after going through your adjustments. Thank you!
Hey Adrian, I have two tips for other new to jp planes. Like you I am still a student with jp planes and I bought a similar plane from another store. 1. Whenever you buy a wooden body plane, let it rest for a week in the environment it will be stored. I keep mine in my house even though I work in my garage to keep the humidity more consistent. When I fist got it, I set it up right away and had to keep tuning the sole. If I would of just waited a week then most of the movement would of happen and I could if only tuned once and been done. 2. Always check and make sure the sole is square to where the plane iron sits. I got a little aggressive with sanding the sole that I unknowingly sanded out of square. This made my iron come out crooked, At first I thought this was because it was cheap and maybe the iron slot was out of square, which could of been the case but most likely my fault. Anyways, the point is, once you have the iron fit to the body, DON'T TOUCH IT! Always adjust the sole or sides to bring it back to square, it doesn't take much to ruin the fit of the iron. I polish/sharpen mine to 12k(it was a present) and the mirror finish and cut is outstanding! Keep up the great vids!!
Thanks David, your comment is well welcomed! It slipped me to mention in the clip about body rest :) Thanks. Indeed I let mine quite few weeks before tuning it.
Do you have any advice on how to dislodge a blade from a plane? Mine was delivered wedged so completely I have not managed to get it out no matter which method and how much force I used.
@@AGH331 I imagine it might be because the conditions were more dry where it was shipped from than where you are. If you put it in your refrigerator for a few hours it might make the wood and metal both shrink enough to loosen the blade. I've never tried this but I imagine it's worth a shot.
@@michaelferrin7109 Thanks for your reply, but I tried this (and many other things already), without success. I had an exchange with an experienced Japanese carpenter about this issue (including pictures), and he said the one I got was just trash.
Nice video ! You're doing it the right way, and the result is good ! Couple of tips I learned over the years(I'm from Japan). -The body adjustment is the absolute key , more so than sharpening . You're doing a great job there! -If you do the Ura-dashi, you could save time when flattening the back and make it easier to get it perfectly flat. -Using all the way to the edges of the whetstone will help keeping the stone flat for much longer. Kuromakus stay flat longer than a lot of others, but it'll still make a big difference . The blade can go over the edges if your hands are steady . -Maybe you know it already, but if you want to plane surfaces wider than the blade, it helps to slightly round off the edges of the blade(the corners) to prevent the blade from biting into the wood. There're few guys showing there master sharpening skills on RUclips, too . Search words like 巣板(Suita) works well.
Excellent video Adrian, thanks. One tip I learned from an older and wiser craftsman a long time ago: Any time you sweep your hand along the sole of a plane, sweep from back to front. That way it doesn't matter where the blade is positioned and you establish a habit that helps prevent accidental injury if/when you sweep the sole while using the plane. (Not saying the way you did it was wrong or unsafe, just passing along a tip!)
Thank you Captain! :) Yes, I said to myself many times when editing the video that it looks like I am grabbing the blade with the fingers, even if it was retracted, but had no other scene filmed :) Indeed, not to be done like so anymore, cause will become a habit!
Thanks Adrian, your excellent video on Japanese Kanna had me convinced to switch over completely from using old English hand plane! I've just ordered 2 x Kanna from Osaka (1) 42mm and (2) 60mm, and they had just arrived Taipei a few days ago (2019 Jan, 31). I'll give myself at least 1 year of consistent usage and constant tuning on these affordable ones before moving on to the more expensive ones. I'll tune these Kannas on glass to ensure that the blade and body stay squared at all times. I've also ordered 12000 grit whetstones from Poland for better finishes. Your video inspires me, thank you! (Robust Chen, Taipei, Taiwan)
Thank you! Good luck with them and nice projects to make! I too, got the 65 mm recently and need to tune that too. Also, I will still wait before spending more bucks on a kanna :)
Hi Adrian, bought the plane with the 65 mm blade at Dieter Schmid's store. Honing is done already. I let the plane sit in my workshop for a month. Thanks to your video I am now able to proceed to the next steps. Very clear instructions. Thank you very much for sharing.
That's cool! Glad you find it useful! Mine sit about 5 months :)) And kept the same twist all this time, although I had a lot of humidity changes, so probably would have worked even sooner. I too wanna buy the 65 one, I think the one from amazon us, in a couple of months. I've started with the 42, was not so fun, very lightweight, then this 50 is amazing, probably 65 is even more fun :)
I was able to finish my kanna today :-)) Cost me the whole day but it was worth it. Had to take a look at Toshio Odates book though because I wasn't aware how to prepare the sole (two points vs. three points). If you ever have difficulties on tuning a plane I recommend the three part series by Sumokan (ruclips.net/video/QQytHrqMsug/видео.html). Still I'm glad that you posted your video because it briefly explains the whole process
Cool, congrats! I was too in doubt how many contact points. Being my only very used japanese plane I've opted for three, cause...I can easily change to two if I want :) From 2 to 3 you loose some material on the sole.
Thanks for this.... I live in Japan and am currently doing all manner of wood butchery around my home. Haven't reset my Kanna for years because I didn't know how. Many thanks ;-)
THANK YOU for posting this video - very informative about the important steps to setting one of these planes for use. I have been thinking of buying the exact same plane, but wasn't 100% about their setup (why I didn't want to buy a more expensive plane). As far as not having more sharpening stones, that would not probably ever stop a true Japanese craftsman from work. The music was great too by the way!!
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Nice tune up, those shavings will get finer over time, if you wet the surface, let it dry, then use this kanna you will get a polished finish. Nice work.
I have allowed green wood to sit in my shop to dry/acclimate. I used a scale that measures tenths of a gram. I would weigh everyday. It was fascinating to register the information. When the weight stabilized I used the wood for small box construction. The technique worked well. Weighing the plane body after purchase would be interesting as well . Thanks for the video.
This is the secret right here, finding half assed made cheap tools and bringing them to a high quality level of tools with a few adjustments at home. This is how you save serious money in this hobby
You should write a book about it, or at least publish an ebook. I'd honestly buy it just to save money in the long run. Complete noob right here, just getting into it.
Aktually its not that special more Like Japanese Tradition There is no Japanese Master who would get his Plane setup by someone else ... And the Quality of Cutting Tools is like 80% the Steel how good the Steel is If its forged well and the Heat treat and Tempering No Matter how Sharp you can Grind your Blade if its dull after half a Cut you will never take a good Cut what you need is a good Quality Tool and a good Setup
This is really sound advice especially for people who think they are buying a plane at a couple of hundred pounds and thinking it will work straight out of the pack. this is clear, concise and accurate
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I totally agree. Stropping with normal light compounds take forever to remove #5000 grit scratches. Something like 8000/10000 really helps to speed things up.
Or just go from 1000 to a strop w/ green or white compound. strop 30-50 times and you're just as sharp as you would be using a 1000-3000-5000-8000, it's just taking far less time and keeps 100'ds of bucks in your pockets. Going through the grits for sharpening is a waste of time.
You`ve got nice results with this kana. I had bed luck with mine because I took more wood from the bed of the blade than necessary. So , I had to bend more the ears of the chip breaker in order to compensate the error. It works okay now. I`ve read about a practice to curve the edge of the blade by lightly striking with a small pointed hammer right over the mild iron area . Never tried for fear of not hitting the hard steel .Maybe I should try it. Nice work, Adrian1
Thanks! The best way to compensate that is too add shims of paper, normal one or cigarette paper if there is too small space, or even veneer on that bed. Glue them then fine tune it again by scraping it if necessary
Do you know the maker name of the plane? Just for my culture :) On the shop where I bought it doesnt mention this. Glad my vid was helpful! Thanks for watching!
This Kakuri I see it everywhere on amazons. I've tried to identify the Japanese symbols on my plane labels, not sure If I managed to see if they are the same :)) Anyway mine is from here, first pic www.fine-tools.com/jhobm.html Indeed, it's very good plane, I can compare it to the Veritas western one :) Very easy to plane with one is sharpened. I cannot compare it to a more expensive one made by famous jp blacksmiths, cause I haven't put my hands one none till now :)
Adrian Preda Sorry for my late reply! Ah, yours in the picture is a different brand. The symbol in red and gold below "TRADE MARK" is 勝. It can be pronounced as "kachi." The two symbols below that are 本銀 (hon gin). The characters on the blade are unclear. I recently got some polishing compound to use with a leather strop after my diamond stones. I hope to get super thin plane shavings like you did🍀😁
Adrian Preda I made a dragon fly on the lathe and used epoxy filled copper wire stripped from a 6 mm cable. Can never get shavings that thin but that would be my choice for wings so that it would all be made from wood. I need to get one of these Japanese planes purely to make shavings for wings. Every day's a school day. Look forward to your insect
Oh, silly me, I thought about insect sticky tapes when reading :)) Indeed, can work great for the wings this method. I've used cheapo spruce for the demo, maybe harder softwoods like larch or cedar might be better. Hardwoods have pores, and also the straight shaving is difficult to achieve, at least for me. Prior using spruce I've tried basswood and maple, nop, round/curly shavings like western planes. Also the trick is the chip breaker, has to be very close to the blade, like 0.1-0.3mm, must be taped very carefully otherwise can get over the blade's edge and ruin the sharpening. Although I've seen other peps making straight shavings also on harder woods, without chip breaker, but that is maybe level 100 of japanese planes, I'm maybe at 5 :)
Nice work, thank you for sharing. I have been interested in trying one of these planes but didn’t have a clue about setting them up. I think I’m going to try it out.
I was always taught to use the whole whetstone when sharpening a blade to make sure it stays level and even. using small parts of it makes it less planar
Thanks Joe! Hope you will find it useful. It's a nice plane to have in addition to western ones. I've found it easier to use it in some situations than the western ones. But I don't find myself ever substituting to full japanese ones
I just bought a small Japanese plane using one of your links and it’s not working well. Now I know what to do to fix it! Thanks so much for another amazing video!
Great job. I bought a bench planer from harbor freight a couple of weeks ago and the table I was working on, long story short the table turned into a planer and the planer turned into a piece of wood
This channel will help you. ruclips.net/video/rNqV4Ht64vg/видео.html And this is a actual dai making by a professional. ruclips.net/video/9kBbe89YgyU/видео.html
Mine is from a german shop, they don't have affiliate links, I just wrote the shop name in description. I've identified some similar ones on the Us amazon, and put the links there. The 65 mm blade one I will get it also soon :)
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Adrian Preda sure. They have scraper planes but they’re like $150+ and take time to setup themselves. From what I’ve seen there extremely effective tools but for some initial Kanna setup, a sharp blade works remarkably well. You just need an adequate way to clamp the body down while scraping.
I see, this kind of scraper planes, tachi kanna, at the shop where I bought the big one, is 95 euro/~120usd the 30mm wide version. Ridiculously two times the price my plane :) They worth buying when you have too a more better or more kanna's.
Hey Adrian! Nice Vid. I have the exact same plane from finetools.com, also my first... have been using it for a year now and feel I'm slowly getting the hang of it. Thinking of maybe getting a higher class 60-70mm kanna. Here bit.ly/2GM9kSE you can find a scraper plane for a little bit less. They're also good for finishing really hard woods not just the sole of a normal kanna... your mini workbench vid also inspired me to build one, thx for that! Only thing I noticed was I thought your secondary bevel on the chipbreaker ws quite wide, could have been the video though...
Thanks for your informative and clear video. For a suggestion, I would say if you explain what you are doing instead of writing it, we would not miss what you are showing. thanks again! Guy
Great video! I bought a plane that looks almost identical apart from the wood type and I am already amazed at how good it is out of the box (it is my first plane to be fair) but I am even more excited to sett it up correctly . Love your content!
Thanks Sonny! Yes is good, but normally you do that thing with Camelia Oil. I would have use it too, but is barely visible on the camera. Pencil works well too but becomes messy in the end :)
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Multumesc Mario! Da, pai cam mereu cand o folosesc am si o bucata de pal gros pe care o verific. Intentionez sa o dau cu un ulei, am unul destul de bunicel cu ceva continut de ceara de albine, cred ca e potrivit.
I have never seen anyone to plane oak for example...why is everyone always planing that softwood? Is there any video on youtube where someone uses kanna for hardwood?
Very nice , detailed tutorial. I never imagine how this stuff works. Question. How often is it necessary to repeat the process? Good job on video buddy.
Thanks man, glad you like it! It all depends on the wear and wood movement mostly, which can happen to twist overnight, or over a longer period. Although these plane makers happen to select carefully the wood for the body, with proper grain direction, sufficient rest etc to minimize the movement. For the blade's bed if the body expands to much you may need to add between, either a shim of paper, like cigarettes type, or veneer if is too loose.
What a great video! In Japan they have contests for the thinnest shaving...anything under 12 microns goes on to the finals...jajaja. Guess I have any excuse now to purchase one of those fancy hammers. Again, Thank you for taking the time to publish this video!!!
I should buy one! I have 2 inexpensive small Chinese planes and a Chinese spoke shave that is a real problem child, once you get them tuned up they sure cut smooth! Thank you.
Thanks Joe! This was my thought too, cause besides other japanese woodworking tools, like saws, chisels etc their planes are not so easy to start with. I paid mine around 65$, and probably is the cheapest I could find at 50mm blade. The good ones, made my known japanese masters starts from 200 :) and visually they look almost identical, probably the blade is finished more nicer than mine, but the extra is reflected in the quality of steel and body's wood selection. Even mine cuts very nice, the steel is very good, way over western planes in this price range.
Excellent work! I have a question about this blade: Can you hammer the bevel or it will brake? (I mean to tap the bevel in order to maintain the hollow at the back)
You can do that, actually this is how it should be done when that hollow will disappear or become flat. But I haven't tried it yet, I'm not at that level dough :)
Ho AP, wee question, I've always tried to maintain a completely flat sole to my planes but (at just over 6 minutes into the video) I see you use a cabinet scraper to hollow the sole of this plane, why is this?
That s how they di it on jp planes. You neee just 2-3 contact point, abt 1cm wide, in front of the plane, in front of the blade, and optional, for trueing, on the back
Yes, water. Actually only water you can use to water stones, oils and greasy stuff will make them unusable, or other chemical liquids. These are Shapton waterstones, they don't need to be soaked for several minutes into water before using them, they are splash & go, so only spraying is enough. Just the rough stones up to 1000 usually I keep them couple of seconds in water cause before using cause they are soaking more than a spray can deliver
That's cool! Have fun using it! The 65 mm one from where did you get it, amazon or fine-tools? I wanna buy the amazon one in 2-3 months I think. Yes, maybe one day I will save some bucks and get an expensive one. I'm too curious to see the difference, although visually they look the same.
JapanWoodworker.com is where I got them. the main problem I see is you pay $89 for the small one and $250 for the big one and neither looks any better than the other. in fact I'm going to have to do more work toning the more expensive one than the cheaper one.They say the more expensive on they used Japanese blue steel on it. but who really knows.the blade doesn't fit at all. Its like some one made a blade and shoved into the wood and boxed it up. very unprofessional.
Check out kanamonoya79 (I think that's right) on ebay, quite often has some very expensive planes selling for a lot cheaper than they should, they're still ridiculously expensive but for what you get it's a much better buy
Hello! Thanks for the video. Many plane build videos do not show setup like you did for the base of the plane. Very clear presentation. Good video and nice organ music. I wasn't expecting this.
It's a legit question, I've asked myself some time ago, but when you use it enough you realize is doing much worse :) Adding a handle you will not have steady control of the part of the plane that is working on the wood (front of the blade) practically you center the control where the handle is thus rotation can appear. Also, thinking of some physics involved, you raise the gravity center of plane + hand, so not good. Holding the sole body with the hand only, makes it spread the holding force all away the part of the body that needs to be in control always. On the other side, a western plane cannot function without a handle, pushing it. Hope I've said it right :) First time I've put from mind to text all this theories :)
there is a nice video by paul sellers where he shows how a properly tuned and sharpened Stanley #4 plane being pulled by a string alone can make beautiful thin shavings, so even in the western plane case, the handle is superfluous. The plane's blade gives the optimal down force, so only light horizontal force is needed.
A ‘western’ Block Plane is the equivalent piece of kit. A Nielsen with the correct setup will produce the same results if not better. The Nielsen gear is tolerance engineered, it’ll last a lifetime.
So when you buy these the blade has to be sharpened and it doesn't even fit in the block right? Is there a place I can buy one that is already ready to go?
I have just bought the same plane from Fine Tools, mine has arrived with the blade about 3mm wider than the throat? i.e when the blade is fully seated, the left and right tip of the blade are seated on wood, and seem to clog. Should I be correcting this by filing away some of the wood itself?
New video tuning a very very tiny japanese plane ruclips.net/video/5_uJVs6JJjo/видео.html
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Super
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Watching this video reminded me that I also have an inexpensive Japanese plane which my brother gave me about 20 yrs ago when he came back from a duty tour in Japan. At the time I thought it was cute but not really useful, so it's sat on a shelf in my shop ever since. I just dug it out of the clutter, cleaned it up and set it up as shown -- and it cuts amazingly well! Thanks for a great and useful video!
Nice to hear that! Glad you found it useful! Thanks!
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I have a lot of experience with Stanley and Lie Nielsen planes, Japanese chisels and saws. I was always impressed with the Japanese tools.
After watching your video I ordered one from Amazon US $65 free shipping with Prime. Arrived in 3 days. I was so excited. Out of the box, I set the blade at its lightest and took beautiful wispy shavings. I can't imagine how much better it will cut after going through your adjustments.
Thank you!
Hey Adrian, I have two tips for other new to jp planes. Like you I am still a student with jp planes and I bought a similar plane from another store.
1. Whenever you buy a wooden body plane, let it rest for a week in the environment it will be stored. I keep mine in my house even though I work in my garage to keep the humidity more consistent. When I fist got it, I set it up right away and had to keep tuning the sole. If I would of just waited a week then most of the movement would of happen and I could if only tuned once and been done.
2. Always check and make sure the sole is square to where the plane iron sits. I got a little aggressive with sanding the sole that I unknowingly sanded out of square. This made my iron come out crooked, At first I thought this was because it was cheap and maybe the iron slot was out of square, which could of been the case but most likely my fault. Anyways, the point is, once you have the iron fit to the body, DON'T TOUCH IT! Always adjust the sole or sides to bring it back to square, it doesn't take much to ruin the fit of the iron.
I polish/sharpen mine to 12k(it was a present) and the mirror finish and cut is outstanding! Keep up the great vids!!
Thanks David, your comment is well welcomed!
It slipped me to mention in the clip about body rest :) Thanks. Indeed I let mine quite few weeks before tuning it.
Ha I goofed my kanna resorted to cutting the blade to thinking about buying a new kanna and restart from fresh
Do you have any advice on how to dislodge a blade from a plane? Mine was delivered wedged so completely I have not managed to get it out no matter which method and how much force I used.
@@AGH331 I imagine it might be because the conditions were more dry where it was shipped from than where you are. If you put it in your refrigerator for a few hours it might make the wood and metal both shrink enough to loosen the blade. I've never tried this but I imagine it's worth a shot.
@@michaelferrin7109 Thanks for your reply, but I tried this (and many other things already), without success. I had an exchange with an experienced Japanese carpenter about this issue (including pictures), and he said the one I got was just trash.
Nice video ! You're doing it the right way, and the result is good !
Couple of tips I learned over the years(I'm from Japan).
-The body adjustment is the absolute key , more so than sharpening . You're doing a great job there!
-If you do the Ura-dashi, you could save time when flattening the back and make it easier to get it perfectly flat.
-Using all the way to the edges of the whetstone will help keeping the stone flat for much longer. Kuromakus stay flat longer than a lot of others, but it'll still make a big difference . The blade can go over the edges if your hands are steady .
-Maybe you know it already, but if you want to plane surfaces wider than the blade, it helps to slightly round off the edges of the blade(the corners) to prevent the blade from biting into the wood.
There're few guys showing there master sharpening skills on RUclips, too . Search words like 巣板(Suita) works well.
Excellent video Adrian, thanks. One tip I learned from an older and wiser craftsman a long time ago: Any time you sweep your hand along the sole of a plane, sweep from back to front. That way it doesn't matter where the blade is positioned and you establish a habit that helps prevent accidental injury if/when you sweep the sole while using the plane. (Not saying the way you did it was wrong or unsafe, just passing along a tip!)
Thank you Captain! :) Yes, I said to myself many times when editing the video that it looks like I am grabbing the blade with the fingers, even if it was retracted, but had no other scene filmed :) Indeed, not to be done like so anymore, cause will become a habit!
Im dumb and I was waiting for flying plane model
Me too.
Same story
LOL, me too
Right here
Same
Expected flying plane. Ended up watching whole video. Not disappointed.
Thanks Adrian, your excellent video on Japanese Kanna had me convinced to switch over completely from using old English hand plane! I've just ordered 2 x Kanna from Osaka (1) 42mm and (2) 60mm, and they had just arrived Taipei a few days ago (2019 Jan, 31). I'll give myself at least 1 year of consistent usage and constant tuning on these affordable ones before moving on to the more expensive ones. I'll tune these Kannas on glass to ensure that the blade and body stay squared at all times. I've also ordered 12000 grit whetstones from Poland for better finishes. Your video inspires me, thank you! (Robust Chen, Taipei, Taiwan)
Thank you! Good luck with them and nice projects to make!
I too, got the 65 mm recently and need to tune that too. Also, I will still wait before spending more bucks on a kanna :)
Hi Adrian, bought the plane with the 65 mm blade at Dieter Schmid's store. Honing is done already. I let the plane sit in my workshop for a month. Thanks to your video I am now able to proceed to the next steps. Very clear instructions. Thank you very much for sharing.
That's cool! Glad you find it useful! Mine sit about 5 months :)) And kept the same twist all this time, although I had a lot of humidity changes, so probably would have worked even sooner. I too wanna buy the 65 one, I think the one from amazon us, in a couple of months. I've started with the 42, was not so fun, very lightweight, then this 50 is amazing, probably 65 is even more fun :)
I was able to finish my kanna today :-)) Cost me the whole day but it was worth it. Had to take a look at Toshio Odates book though because I wasn't aware how to prepare the sole (two points vs. three points). If you ever have difficulties on tuning a plane I recommend the three part series by Sumokan (ruclips.net/video/QQytHrqMsug/видео.html). Still I'm glad that you posted your video because it briefly explains the whole process
Cool, congrats! I was too in doubt how many contact points. Being my only very used japanese plane I've opted for three, cause...I can easily change to two if I want :) From 2 to 3 you loose some material on the sole.
It's amazing how that thing can fly. The Japanese are ahead of tech
I'm not surprised you can fly for how HIGH you are right now
@@nickkammer6832 r/wooosh
rip
@@medium.kahuna dammit i dont get da joke!!!! May u explain brother
@@nickkammer6832 wtf you talking about. That thing sucks. Use a western plane and yoyll realise how shit this is.
Do you need your receipt? ...Allrighty let me just plane this off for ya.
Underrated comment of the week
So glad I checked the comments before I made my own receipt joke, well played from a year in the future
I'm surprised that you eyeballed everything. You even sharpened the blade without a jig, that's awesome! You have my respect, sir.
Thanks for this.... I live in Japan and am currently doing all manner of wood butchery around my home.
Haven't reset my Kanna for years because I didn't know how.
Many thanks ;-)
Hi Jerry, glad it was helpful this video! Thanks for watching!
Thanks so much for this video. I got a kanna plane for Christmas and I look forward to finally setting it up and putting it to use.
Thank you also for watching! Hope you will find it useful and enjoy quickly your kanna :)
THANK YOU for posting this video - very informative about the important steps to setting one of these planes for use. I have been thinking of buying the exact same plane, but wasn't 100% about their setup (why I didn't want to buy a more expensive plane). As far as not having more sharpening stones, that would not probably ever stop a true Japanese craftsman from work. The music was great too by the way!!
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I set up my inexpensive Japanese plane following your example! Mine cuts so sweet! Thank you Adrian.
Thank you Robert, glad you find the video useful!
One of the better reviews-and no unnecessary faffing around!
New subscriber, right here!!
Nice tune up, those shavings will get finer over time, if you wet the surface, let it dry, then use this kanna you will get a polished finish. Nice work.
Interesting, good to know, thank for the tip, I will try it!
Excellent job Adrian! I hope you enjoy it
Thank you Mik! I believe will become a very used tool in the shop :)
Simplest video I've found 👏. I didn't need a 50 min video to tune my $50 Kanna, some of us learn by making mistakes.
Japanese Kanna are great tools, but as Adrian has demonstrated they require skill to fine tune. Superb tutorial. Thank you.
Thank you Sean!
I have allowed green wood to sit in my shop to dry/acclimate. I used a scale that measures tenths of a gram. I would weigh everyday. It was fascinating to register the information. When the weight stabilized I used the wood for small box construction. The technique worked well. Weighing the plane body after purchase would be interesting as well .
Thanks for the video.
Very nice results! I'd be interested to see the shaving during the process to see which part of the tuning improves which problem.
This is the secret right here, finding half assed made cheap tools and bringing them to a high quality level of tools with a few adjustments at home.
This is how you save serious money in this hobby
You should write a book about it, or at least publish an ebook. I'd honestly buy it just to save money in the long run. Complete noob right here, just getting into it.
Doesn't look half-assed to me.
Aktually its not that special more Like Japanese Tradition
There is no Japanese Master who would get his Plane setup by someone else ...
And the Quality of Cutting Tools is like 80% the Steel how good the Steel is If its forged well and the Heat treat and Tempering
No Matter how Sharp you can Grind your Blade if its dull after half a Cut you will never take a good Cut what you need is a good Quality Tool and a good Setup
This was so much better than what I thought it was going to be. I was expecting a toy model plane. This was much more entertaining.
This is really sound advice especially for people who think they are buying a plane at a couple of hundred pounds and thinking it will work straight out of the pack.
this is clear, concise and accurate
A lot of good techniques for preparing my new, inexpensive Kanna plane. Flattening the chip breaker worked really well. Thanks
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This video was the best all around guide tuneing up a Japanese hand plane before use.
Instead of buying another expensive waterstone, just use a leather strop, these give a fantastic edge and leave a mirror finish
Tom Cockrem its faster to use a courser wet stone to do a bulk of the work then work your way down till you get to leather . Leather is the last step
I totally agree. Stropping with normal light compounds take forever to remove #5000 grit scratches. Something like 8000/10000 really helps to speed things up.
Or just go from 1000 to a strop w/ green or white compound. strop 30-50 times and you're just as sharp as you would be using a 1000-3000-5000-8000, it's just taking far less time and keeps 100'ds of bucks in your pockets. Going through the grits for sharpening is a waste of time.
@@hoggif exelent, guy! This is right answer!
Escalator definitely not as sharp as an 8 or 10k stone but definitely sharp enough.
You`ve got nice results with this kana. I had bed luck with mine because I took more wood from the bed of the blade than necessary. So , I had to bend more the ears of the chip breaker in order to compensate the error. It works okay now. I`ve read about a practice to curve the edge of the blade by lightly striking with a small pointed hammer right over the mild iron area .
Never tried for fear of not hitting the hard steel .Maybe I should try it. Nice work, Adrian1
Thanks! The best way to compensate that is too add shims of paper, normal one or cigarette paper if there is too small space, or even veneer on that bed. Glue them then fine tune it again by scraping it if necessary
I got the exact same plane in Japan last year and haven't taken it out of the package yet. Your video will help me set it up. Great stuff!
Do you know the maker name of the plane? Just for my culture :) On the shop where I bought it doesnt mention this. Glad my vid was helpful! Thanks for watching!
This Kakuri I see it everywhere on amazons. I've tried to identify the Japanese symbols on my plane labels, not sure If I managed to see if they are the same :)) Anyway mine is from here, first pic www.fine-tools.com/jhobm.html Indeed, it's very good plane, I can compare it to the Veritas western one :) Very easy to plane with one is sharpened. I cannot compare it to a more expensive one made by famous jp blacksmiths, cause I haven't put my hands one none till now :)
Adrian Preda Sorry for my late reply! Ah, yours in the picture is a different brand. The symbol in red and gold below "TRADE MARK" is 勝. It can be pronounced as "kachi."
The two symbols below that are 本銀 (hon gin). The characters on the blade are unclear. I recently got some polishing compound to use with a leather strop after my diamond stones. I hope to get super thin plane shavings like you did🍀😁
Those shavings.....
Ideal for insect wings.
Yes, I will use them in summer :D
Adrian Preda I made a dragon fly on the lathe and used epoxy filled copper wire stripped from a 6 mm cable. Can never get shavings that thin but that would be my choice for wings so that it would all be made from wood. I need to get one of these Japanese planes purely to make shavings for wings. Every day's a school day. Look forward to your insect
Oh, silly me, I thought about insect sticky tapes when reading :)) Indeed, can work great for the wings this method. I've used cheapo spruce for the demo, maybe harder softwoods like larch or cedar might be better. Hardwoods have pores, and also the straight shaving is difficult to achieve, at least for me. Prior using spruce I've tried basswood and maple, nop, round/curly shavings like western planes. Also the trick is the chip breaker, has to be very close to the blade, like 0.1-0.3mm, must be taped very carefully otherwise can get over the blade's edge and ruin the sharpening. Although I've seen other peps making straight shavings also on harder woods, without chip breaker, but that is maybe level 100 of japanese planes, I'm maybe at 5 :)
Or a hamster bed!
What do you mean by insect wings ? is it a fishing thing ?
Nice work, thank you for sharing. I have been interested in trying one of these planes but didn’t have a clue about setting them up. I think I’m going to try it out.
I was always taught to use the whole whetstone when sharpening a blade to make sure it stays level and even. using small parts of it makes it less planar
Adrian, your videos are the best. Please keep them coming.
+Jason Robinson Thank you!😁
Im agree ! 👍👍👍🤗
Thank you!!!!!!!!! Just got one in the mail today and now see I’ve got some work to do
Great Job I have restored and set up many metal and even vintage wooden planes but no Japanese I may have to try one some day.
Thanks Joe! Hope you will find it useful. It's a nice plane to have in addition to western ones. I've found it easier to use it in some situations than the western ones. But I don't find myself ever substituting to full japanese ones
Wow , that plane went up 200$ ....
Amazing to watch you do that so easy .
Expected aircraft
Didn't get disappointed
I just bought a small Japanese plane using one of your links and it’s not working well. Now I know what to do to fix it! Thanks so much for another amazing video!
Great job. I bought a bench planer from harbor freight a couple of weeks ago and the table I was working on, long story short the table turned into a planer and the planer turned into a piece of wood
3:46 that was some accidentally art work.
My dude they’re just some smears
@No Maybe a happy little tree in there!
@@mitnoxin nice, Bob!
The mind is a powerful thing
Idk, I see a vagina
I am still a student of this process, if you have any other tips regarding kanna tuning I appreciate sharing it here.
This channel will help you. ruclips.net/video/rNqV4Ht64vg/видео.html
And this is a actual dai making by a professional. ruclips.net/video/9kBbe89YgyU/видео.html
+jishaku38 Thanks for sharing those! Really good stuff!
Put a link for the Japanese Plane you bought and make some money to further your channel.
Mine is from a german shop, they don't have affiliate links, I just wrote the shop name in description. I've identified some similar ones on the Us amazon, and put the links there. The 65 mm blade one I will get it also soon :)
Awesome video!! I’ve been looking for proper instructions regarding the Japanese kanna plane.
Very well done.
Thanks! Glad you find it useful! Good luck making shavings now :)
just buy paper😔😔
7:38 good fire starting material
You had 999 likes on this video when I pressed thumbs up. I first asked my brother if he could press tumb up but he didn't have a RUclips account. Then I asked my other brother to press. I quests you now have 1000 thumbs up. Congratulations 👍
Thanks guys :) I really appreciate it! Thanks for enjoying the video!
Excellent video, Adrien! I’m almost convinced to buy one for myself
Thank you Marco! Do enjoy it :)
As much as I enjoy sharpening, I think I just found a new hobby. Thanks.
I just got my first Japanese plane for my birthday, the small 42mm one, and this video really helped me in getting it setup. Thank you!
Oh, thanks and Happy Birthday! With the 42mm I've started also. I'm glad that helped you!
Using the blade itself to scrape the recesses in the bottom realllllly sped up the process for me 👍🏻.
Yes, I've seen this on others, I will try to next time! Thanks!
Adrian Preda sure. They have scraper planes but they’re like $150+ and take time to setup themselves. From what I’ve seen there extremely effective tools but for some initial Kanna setup, a sharp blade works remarkably well. You just need an adequate way to clamp the body down while scraping.
I see, this kind of scraper planes, tachi kanna, at the shop where I bought the big one, is 95 euro/~120usd the 30mm wide version. Ridiculously two times the price my plane :) They worth buying when you have too a more better or more kanna's.
Hey Adrian!
Nice Vid. I have the exact same plane from finetools.com, also my first... have been using it for a year now and feel I'm slowly getting the hang of it. Thinking of maybe getting a higher class 60-70mm kanna. Here bit.ly/2GM9kSE you can find a scraper plane for a little bit less. They're also good for finishing really hard woods not just the sole of a normal kanna... your mini workbench vid also inspired me to build one, thx for that!
Only thing I noticed was I thought your secondary bevel on the chipbreaker ws quite wide, could have been the video though...
This was in my recommended idek what a plane is used for.
Thanks for your informative and clear video. For a suggestion, I would say if you explain what you are doing instead of writing it, we would not miss what you are showing. thanks again!
Guy
Very good instructional. Just the other week i thought of bying an identical model to start with :-) Now i am convinced that it s a good idea.
Thanks! Hope you will enjoy it, otherwise don't break my balls :)
Great video! I bought a plane that looks almost identical apart from the wood type and I am already amazed at how good it is out of the box (it is my first plane to be fair) but I am even more excited to sett it up correctly . Love your content!
Love the pencil trick! That’s awesome!
Thanks Sonny! Yes is good, but normally you do that thing with Camelia Oil. I would have use it too, but is barely visible on the camera. Pencil works well too but becomes messy in the end :)
Great video. Really makes the setup of one of these hand planes understandable
Interesant canalul tau si filmuletul
Cel mai important lucru de care nu trebuie sa uiti
verifica periodic supreafata de lucru
Lemnul lucreaza tot timpul indiferent cat de uscat este
Nu este o ideie rea sa inchizi pori lemnului exclus lacul
Felicitari inca odata pentru canal
Multumesc Mario! Da, pai cam mereu cand o folosesc am si o bucata de pal gros pe care o verific. Intentionez sa o dau cu un ulei, am unul destul de bunicel cu ceva continut de ceara de albine, cred ca e potrivit.
This is the kind of tool that will recall memories of your dead master while using it
I love how the plane "sings"... excellent work and video.
Thank you!
Thanks I will follow your example when my first Japanese hand plane arrives in a few days.
Great Video on the "out of the box tuning" that should be done - thank you
I have never seen anyone to plane oak for example...why is everyone always planing that softwood? Is there any video on youtube where someone uses kanna for hardwood?
Thanks, very thorough video. I just bought a relatively cheap one and will have to tune it.
Very nice , detailed tutorial. I never imagine how this stuff works. Question. How often is it necessary to repeat the process? Good job on video buddy.
Thanks man, glad you like it! It all depends on the wear and wood movement mostly, which can happen to twist overnight, or over a longer period. Although these plane makers happen to select carefully the wood for the body, with proper grain direction, sufficient rest etc to minimize the movement. For the blade's bed if the body expands to much you may need to add between, either a shim of paper, like cigarettes type, or veneer if is too loose.
Thank you for your excellent video on setting up a Japanese plane it is something on my wish list.
What a great video! In Japan they have contests for the thinnest shaving...anything under 12 microns goes on to the finals...jajaja. Guess I have any excuse now to purchase one of those fancy hammers. Again, Thank you for taking the time to publish this video!!!
I should buy one! I have 2 inexpensive small Chinese planes and a Chinese spoke shave that is a real problem child, once you get them tuned up they sure cut smooth! Thank you.
I love Japanese design - simple, effective, elegant, even a plane is like a katana sword, simple wood with steel
Good stuff as always!! Might have to get a cheap one to see how it works.thanks for sharing
Thanks Joe! This was my thought too, cause besides other japanese woodworking tools, like saws, chisels etc their planes are not so easy to start with. I paid mine around 65$, and probably is the cheapest I could find at 50mm blade. The good ones, made my known japanese masters starts from 200 :) and visually they look almost identical, probably the blade is finished more nicer than mine, but the extra is reflected in the quality of steel and body's wood selection. Even mine cuts very nice, the steel is very good, way over western planes in this price range.
Never Seen something like this, it looks amazing
You hve just convinced me to purchase. I have been thinking of buying for a while.
nice choice of music! and thanks for the instructions!
Love the plane! Keep up the excellent videos!
Thank you very much! Glad you enjoy my videos!
great video! no i can order japanese plane without fear! loved the lovely shavings..them selves can be the final target lol!
Wow ...., you can make your own paper.. thanks for showing this great tool
very nice and clear video! I do love japanese planes! Thanks
Thank you Franco! I'm glad to hear that! I've tried to make it as short as possible and enough info in understanding the process.
in my opinion it is perfect!
Excellent work!
I have a question about this blade:
Can you hammer the bevel or it will brake? (I mean to tap the bevel in order to maintain the hollow at the back)
You can do that, actually this is how it should be done when that hollow will disappear or become flat. But I haven't tried it yet, I'm not at that level dough :)
first of all, awesome info
second and probably more importantly AWESOME background music that didnt totally suck :)
Great video!! and I've just bought Japanese plane 42mm and 50mm thanks..
Thank you for watching!
Outstanding. Thank you!
Excellent Tutorial. Great end result
Japanese potato peeler sharpening tutorial...nice!
If you ever make a wooden box, those shavings would make amazing wrappings!
+Ms. Nightshade Did you knew that my next 3 videos will be wooden boxes? 😁😁😁
Ho AP, wee question, I've always tried to maintain a completely flat sole to my planes but (at just over 6 minutes into the video) I see you use a cabinet scraper to hollow the sole of this plane, why is this?
That s how they di it on jp planes. You neee just 2-3 contact point, abt 1cm wide, in front of the plane, in front of the blade, and optional, for trueing, on the back
@@AdrianPreda ahh, I've no japanese planes, just european ones, I suppose that reduces surface friction. Thanks.
Thank you for the clearest demonstration yet of Kanna tuning!!
Is that a slab of Intsia you're working on? I'm looking for planes that can handle Instia and similar hardwoods. It's very hard on chisels and planes.
is that just water you are spraying on those stones?? good tutorial on tweeking a new plane.
Yes, water. Actually only water you can use to water stones, oils and greasy stuff will make them unusable, or other chemical liquids. These are Shapton waterstones, they don't need to be soaked for several minutes into water before using them, they are splash & go, so only spraying is enough. Just the rough stones up to 1000 usually I keep them couple of seconds in water cause before using cause they are soaking more than a spray can deliver
I've been looking everywhere for one of these.
Just got mine. Paid a lot for my 65mm and real cheap on my 34mm. boy what a difference. I imagine the real costly ones are out standing.
That's cool! Have fun using it! The 65 mm one from where did you get it, amazon or fine-tools? I wanna buy the amazon one in 2-3 months I think. Yes, maybe one day I will save some bucks and get an expensive one. I'm too curious to see the difference, although visually they look the same.
JapanWoodworker.com is where I got them. the main problem I see is you pay $89 for the small one and $250 for the big one and neither looks any better than the other. in fact I'm going to have to do more work toning the more expensive one than the cheaper one.They say the more expensive on they used Japanese blue steel on it. but who really knows.the blade doesn't fit at all. Its like some one made a blade and shoved into the wood and boxed it up. very unprofessional.
Check out kanamonoya79 (I think that's right) on ebay, quite often has some very expensive planes selling for a lot cheaper than they should, they're still ridiculously expensive but for what you get it's a much better buy
thanks
Hello!
Thanks for the video.
Many plane build videos do not show setup like you did for the base of the plane. Very clear presentation.
Good video and nice organ music.
I wasn't expecting this.
You have taught me few valuable points. thank you
I would like to have seen how it performed straight out of the box before any special setup.
Just wondering, why Japanese did not make a handle for pulling as a western plane has a handle for pushing? 🤔
It's a legit question, I've asked myself some time ago, but when you use it enough you realize is doing much worse :) Adding a handle you will not have steady control of the part of the plane that is working on the wood (front of the blade) practically you center the control where the handle is thus rotation can appear. Also, thinking of some physics involved, you raise the gravity center of plane + hand, so not good. Holding the sole body with the hand only, makes it spread the holding force all away the part of the body that needs to be in control always. On the other side, a western plane cannot function without a handle, pushing it. Hope I've said it right :) First time I've put from mind to text all this theories :)
there is a nice video by paul sellers where he shows how a properly tuned and sharpened Stanley #4 plane being pulled by a string alone can make beautiful thin shavings, so even in the western plane case, the handle is superfluous. The plane's blade gives the optimal down force, so only light horizontal force is needed.
Chinese planes have lateral handle for pulling.
A ‘western’ Block Plane is the equivalent piece of kit. A Nielsen with the correct setup will produce the same results if not better. The Nielsen gear is tolerance engineered, it’ll last a lifetime.
Great intro setup video. I just received a used kanna similar to yours and have been at odds as to setting it up. Thanks for sharing.
So when you buy these the blade has to be sharpened and it doesn't even fit in the block right? Is there a place I can buy one that is already ready to go?
Do you have a video on that shirt workbench your using when planing?
Fascinating work, but why the hollows on the sole, please explain!... Cheers
Good job Youngman!
I have just bought the same plane from Fine Tools, mine has arrived with the blade about 3mm wider than the throat? i.e when the blade is fully seated, the left and right tip of the blade are seated on wood, and seem to clog. Should I be correcting this by filing away some of the wood itself?